San Pietro in Vaticano
Transcription
San Pietro in Vaticano
XI The Eleventh Walk San Pietro in Vaticano S a n P i e t r o i n Va t i c a n o Walk XI San Pietro in Vaticano 60. San Pietro in Vaticano 207 Walk XI San Pietro in Vaticano 60 - San Pietro in Vaticano Saint Peter in Rome The legend is that Saint Peter reigned for twenty-five years, and was in Rome from 42 to 67, the year of his execution. Others say Peter came to Rome about 63 AD. He was jailed in the Mamertine prison during Nero’s persecution. He was convinced by his fellow Christians to escape Rome for the good of the Church. The jailors Processus and Martinianus released Peter from the Mamertine prison and he fled down the Appian Way. About two miles from the city, he saw in the sheen of the Milky Way a half ring, a glory around a head. Then a human form took shape. As the figure passed him, he realized that it was Jesus, coming from the opposite direction toward the city. Peter asked him “Domine, Quo Vadis?” “Lord, whither thou goest?” Jesus replied in sadness, “I go to Rome to be crucified a second time.” Peter sank, sobbing, and Jesus put His hand on him. Then Jesus vanished. Peter took this as a message that he was to return to Rome to endure suffering and martyrdom just as Jesus had. He immediately turned back to Rome, and to the Mamertine on the Forum, where he asked his jailers to rechain him. Peter continued his ministry to his jailers Processus and Martinianus (subsequently martyred for their conversion). Because there was no water for their baptism, Peter struck the floor of the dungeon and caused a fountain to arise which we can still see today. Legend has it that Paul came to be jailed with him. Peter and Paul were ultimately condemned to death by the Roman authorities. Paul was taken for his execution outside the walls down the Via Ostiensis, Peter to Nero’s circus on the Vatican. “Inter duas metas”/Peter’s Martyrdom Our Christian ancestors have told us that Peter was crucified in 67 AD “between the two metae.” Nero’s circus was located on the left of the ancient Via Cornelia, and to the left of today’s Saint Peter’s. Caligula had brought a huge red granite obelisk to this circus from Heliopolis and placed it in the middle of the spina around which the charioteers raced. Nero began his persecution of the Christians at this circus which he inherited from Caligula. Often Nero had the Christians covered with skins of wild beasts, to attract the wild attack dogs of the circus. Often they were smeared with tar and burnt at the stake. Many were crucified. Two years into Nero’s campaign, Peter was subjected to this fate. His wish to be crucified with his head facing downward was granted by his executioners. Christians believe that he was crucified at the base of the obelisk in Nero’s circus, because our tradition relates that Peter was crucified “inter duas metas,” or between the two metae, or endposts, of the spina. Sacred Places Rediscovering the Churches of Rome Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit After Peter’s execution, his fellow Christians were able to get the Roman authorities to release Peter’s body to them and they buried him in the Roman cemetery next to the circus. After Constantine issued Edict of Milan, Christians constructed a small chapel next to the obelisk, naming it the “Chapel of the Crucifixion.” This chapel was in existence for some nine hundred years, disappearing only in the reign of Innocent III (1198-1216). The Obelisk of the Piazza Caligula had a huge red granite obelisk placed in the circus; perhaps it was Roman because it has no hieroglyphics, perhaps it was taken from Egypt. Sixtus V (1585-1590) determined to move it from the circus to the center of the Piazza. In 1586, the Pope hired Domenico Fontana to do the erection. It took 800 men, 150 horses, and 46 cranes to raise the obelisk, which weighed 963,537 Roman pounds. We can see on the east and west foot of this obelisk the dedicatory inscription to Augustus and Tiberius (see the words “C A E S” “AUGVS V TA” and “TI.”) and also the Christian dedication to the cross on the east base: “ECCE CRV X DOMINI.” The top now has the Chigi star and a cross atop six small mounts; a relic of the true cross is contained here. The third Pope, Anacletus (97) (ordained by Saint Peter himself), placed a Memoria or open tabernacle over Peter’s grave in the Roman cemetery. In 160-170 AD an aedicule consisting of three niches, on top of each other, was built on this grave. The central one of these niches is called the Niche of the Pallia, because over time each new Bishop’s pallium or vestment consisting of a long scarve worn around the neck, was blessed by putting it 208 Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit into this niche and onto Peter’s tomb. The main altar at Saint Peter’s rises directly above this niche. Constantine and Pope Sylvester (314-335) exhumed Peter’s body, and placed it in a silver casket enclosed in a large gilt bronze sarcophagus, which was further encased in porphyry and marble. This we know from the papal chronicle, the Liber Pontificalis. Constantine placed a cross of gold weighing one hundred and fifty pounds on top of the sarcophagus, and then caused a small chapel to be built on top of the grave, with the altar directly over the sarcophagus. Constantine personally dug the foundation for San Pietro, according to the medieval guide Mirabilia, taking out twelve baskets of dirt, symbolic of the Apostles. He made an arch of gold over the grave, and set in front twelve pillars of glass, from Apollo’s Temple at Troy. History records that Constantine built the original Basilica in 324 after his defeat of Licinus on the Bosporus. The Saracens desecrated this grave in 847 (as well as Saint Paul’s grave) and likely made off with or destroyed Peter’s relics and the precious casket and sarcophagus. What they didn’t do, the Germans and Spanish who sacked Rome in 1527 probably finished. When twentieth century excavators did work here, all they found was an empty hole that had probably held Peter’s casket. Bones were found in the area, and the discussion continues as to whether these are Peter’s. Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit 209 Walk XI San Pietro in Vaticano Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit The modern day Confessio is in front of and below the main altar and baldacchino. There are eighty-six (87? 99? 95? 89? pick your source!) gilded golden lamps always burning here. The Confessio with marble and intarsia work we see today was done by Carlo Maderno in 1615. Directly beneath the papal altar above is a gilded grille which conceals the Niche of the Pallia. If we were able to get close enough to look into the grille we would see on the floor a cross. On the right hand angle of the cross is a small door opening on to a shaft through which pilgrims used to lower their branden or cloth, to obtain a touching of the relic below. From the Confessio, we move to Arnolfo di Cambio’s famous bronze statue of Peter, which is right of the central dome, made 1290. You must touch Peter’s foot, as millions of Christians have done before you over the course of some seven hundred years. The Peter we see was sculpted based upon the description of him in the ancient Nicephorus, used by early Christians who painted Peter first in the catacombs and then in the oratories or small places of worship and then the early Christian Churches. Peter is a robust old man, with a broad forehead, short curly gray (sometimes white) hair on the top of his head and in his beard, and with coarse features. His eyes and looks are open, honest and simple. Keys did not begin in the representations of Peter until the eighth century; in general there were two, one of which was gold to absolve and one of which was silver to bind. Sacred Places Rediscovering the Churches of Rome Old Saint Peter’s Old Saint Peter’s was built in the time of Constantine. It was sacked by the Saracens in their invasion of Italy, Ostia and Rome in 846-847. Leo IV (847-855) restored the Church and built his “Leonine” wall around the surrounding neighborhood, the “Borgo,” to defend it. It was important for Leo to restore Saint Peter’s and to protect it as it had become a mausoleum for the Popes and others, and the holiest place of pilgrimage for Christians from across the world. From the time of Leo I in the fifth century, the popes were buried, side by side, under the floor in the vestibule of Saint Peter’s. This continued for two and a half centuries until the space was filled up. Such a holy place brought many pilgrims, including the Emperor Theodosius, the Emperor Valentinian III and his wife Eudoxia and his mother Galla Placidia, Justinian’s great general Count Belasarius, the Ostrogoth Totila, Ceadwalla, Candidus, the King of the West Saxons who was baptized here and immediately died (“CANDIDVS INTER ORES CHRISTI”) and then was buried next to Gregory the Great, Luitprand, King of the Lombards, Bertrada, wife of Pepin and Mother of Charlemagne, Charlemagne (who came here four times, once to be crowned by Leo III), Lothaire (crowned here by Pashcal I), Esthelworlf, King of the Anglo-Saxons, and Canute and Richard, Earl of Cornwall. New Saint Peter’s Nicolas V (1447-1455), the great humanist Pope at the outset of the full Renaissance, determined that a new Saint Peter’s was necessary as old Saint Peter’s was crumbling. Nicolas planned the new Saint Peter’s for behind the Tribune of old Saint Peter’s. Architects were engaged and excavation began, but Nicolas died before the foundations got above ground, and the project was abandoned for some fifty years. It was for the great warrior Pope, Julius II (1503-1513) (the nephew of Sixtus IV (1471-1484) who made the Sistine Chapel) to really begin the new church. He hired Donato Bramante in 1506 to begin again. Bramante designed a basilica the size 210 of that of Constantine/Maxentius on the Forum to be capped with a dome like that of the Pantheon. A foundation stone was laid at the spot where the statue of Saint Veronica now sits in the center of the Basilica. Julius lived long enough to see the gigantic main four piers and the arches joining them to be finished. The Medici Pope, Leo X (1513-1521), continued the work, and as Bramante had died, he used Giuliano da Sangallo as architect. Sangallo died, and Raphael was brought in. Before Raphael died three years later, he changed the design from Bramante’s Greek cross to a Latin cross (the form that ultimately prevailed). Up to this point, the only additions to the work as Julius and Bramante had left it was the strengthening of the four piers. When Raphael died, Baldasare Peruzzi took over and he returned to Bramante’s Greek cross. Peruzzi managed to finish the tribune. But then Leo died, and the work abated for some twenty years, this due largely to the sack of Rome in 1527 by Charles V. Paul III (Farnese) (1534-1549) induced Michelangelo to take up the work in 1540, he then an aged 72, after promising him total authority. Michelangelo enlarged the tribunes and transepts but stayed with the Greek cross, reinforced the piers again, and, in his most significant contribution, replanned the cupola to enlarge it, in his words, to “raise the Pantheon in the air.” The dome ultimately was made even larger. Michelangelo worked for seventeen years on the dome, but at his death in 1563 only the drum was finished. It was now a hundred years from Nicolas V’s design, and over fifty from Julius and Bramante’s beginnings. After Michelangelo, Vignola and Pirro Ligorio took over, completing the two smaller cupolas. Gregory XIII (1572-1585) then gave the job to Giacomo della Porta, who was destined to finish the great dome in 1590 under the great builder/designer of modern Rome, Sixtus V (1585-1590). The size of the dome is due to della Porta. Sixtus devoted 800 workmen to the project and had them working day and night. Clement VIII (1592-1605) had della Porta continue work on the basilica. In 1593 the ball and cross were added to the top. When Clement died in 1605, everything structurally was finished, except the facade and portico. In 1607 Paul V (Borghese) (1605-1621) began the final teardown of what was left of old Saint Peter’s, the entire front of that blessed building. For this he employed Carlo Maderno. Maderno returned to the Latin cross of Raphael, added eighty meters to the length of the nave, which was completed in 1612. This was done so that the entire footprint of the old Saint Peter’s would be covered by the new Saint Peter’s. Maderno then completed the portico facade in 1614. His original plan for the facade did not include the two ends we see today; these were added at Paul V’s orders after Maderno’s death in 1621 and are actually towers. Urban VIII (16231644) started to have these raised higher according to Bernini’s plan, but the foundation proved inadequate, the Bernini tower was taken down, leaving the somewhat out of place foundations to be part of the now perhaps too wide facade. The gaudy facade inscription commemorates the completion of the façade by “PAV LVS V BV RGH E SI VS ” in 1612. The tower clocks were added in 1776 (1780?) by Valadier (under Pius VI (1775-1799)), and the six bells of Saint Peter’s are on the left, the one by Valadier the largest bell in Rome. The Piazza Alexander VII (Chigi) (1655-1667) commissioned Bernini to make the Piazza. In 1667 Bernini created a double elliptical colonnade of 284 columns. The right fountain was done in 1613 by Maderno for Paul V, the one on the left by Carlo Fontana in 1677. Two round slabs are on a line between the fountains and the obelisk: if you stand on them you are tricked (by Bernini) into thinking there is but one file of columns in the colonnade, not four. So – whew – that completes our timeline for the new Basilica we visit today – Bramante’s four piers, Michelangelo’s plan and drum, della Porta’s dome, Maderno’s nave, portico and facade, and Bernini’s square. The Church was dedicated by Urban VIII (1623-1644) in 1626 – taking 176 years to build. The Facade As we look up at the facade (144 feet high!) as we enter Saint Peter’s again, we see nothing but travertine. Under the outer loggia is a stucco relief of Jesus giving the keys to Peter. The facade has a six feet tall balustrade on top, with Jesus, John the Baptist and all the apostles save Peter. The loggia from which the new Pope appears and from which the Pope gives his annual “Vrbi et Orbi” is above the central door. The Portico We now enter the portico by Carlo Maderno, encountering 5 doors. On the far right is the Porta Santa, only opened in Jubilee years (these used to be every 100 (50?)years (Boniface VIII) then 33 years (Urban VI) to match Jesus’ life years, changed to 25 by Paul II in 1470. On Christmas Eve before each Jubilee year, the Pope takes a special silver hammer and strikes the wall in the doorway (which has already been cut from its jams and lintel), and the door then falls inward, to be cleared away by the San Pietrini. The Pope then enters Saint Peter’s with a torch in hand. 211 Walk XI San Pietro in Vaticano The New Navicella We next turn around to view the baroque copies of Giotto’s Navicella (Matthew, XIV) mosaic which is positioned across from the main door on the inside of the portico, above the door. Cardinal Jacopo Stefaneschi commissioned Giotto to make his famous Navicella mosaic in 1298-1304. The original had classical figures, with lifelike expressions and a sense of reality: we are at sea with Jesus who saves his Apostles. The original Navicella was placed on the quadro-portico of old Saint Peter’s, the viewer facing the East. This mosaic was positioned for the benefit of Christian pilgrims from the East, whose custom it was to look to the East on entering any Church. Giotto’s Navicella drew the pilgrims in; it was the most extraordinary work of art for its time and it stunned the world. The mosaic was huge: It was perhaps thirty feet wide and twenty feet high. The calm fisherman on the lower left is the special feature: he represents the hope of the Christian believers. Notice that there is but one oarsman, Saint Paul . Tragically, in 1610 Giotto’s mosaic was dismembered in order to make way for the new facade. The Fabbrica of Saint Peter’s has a copy of Giotto’s original. Constantine and Charlemagne Bernini’s sculpture of Constantine is on the right of the portico (on the Scala Regia--difficult to see) and Cornacchini’s statue of Charlemagne on the left (behind the iron fence). Also, there is a stucco ceiling designed by Algardi showing the acts of the Apostles and thirty martyred Popes. The Central Bronze Door of Filarete The central bronze door was saved from old Saint Peter’s. The door was cast by Antonio Filarete in the twelve years from 1433 to 1445 for Pope Eugenius IV (1431-1447) and now contains ten bas-reliefs. The two upper facias were added by Paul V in 1619 so that the height of the door would match the height of the openings in new Saint Peter’s. The upper left panel has Jesus enthroned (“EGO SVM LVX MVNDI ET VERITATIS”); the upper right has the Annunciation (“Grace, Mary, the Lord [is] with you”); the middle left Paul, and the middle right Peter and Eugenius IV. The lower left has the execution of Paul (with a small medallion just below it with a self portrait of Filarete) and the lower right the execution of Peter (with another self-portrait of Filarete right in the middle). The doors also have historical themes running horizontally between the panels. Above Paul we have Emperor Giovanni Paleologs meeting Pope Eugenius IV. Immediately above the martyrdom of Paul we have the coronation in Rome of the Emperor Sigismundo. Above the panel of Peter/Eugenius IV is the Council of Florence and the Royal Party returning to Byzantium. Finally, above the crucifixion of Peter we have the Abbot Andrew accepting the bull of the union of the Church, and the Jacobite delegation arriving in Rome in 1441. The relief of Peter’s crucifixion is of special interest as you can make out classical buildings. The crucifixion of Peter is placed “inter duas metae”, but the metae here are the Pyramid of Cestius and the Meta Romuli, not the Neronian Circus metae. The frame basreliefs include scenes from Aesop’s fables, and Ovid’s Metamorphases, like Ganymede, Leda and her swan. The Filarete Miniatures Renetering the nave, we go around to see the back of Filarete’s bronze doors, where we find seven little figures on the bottom right of the doors. The figures are Filarete and his assistants, each with his tool. Supposedly Filarete was unhappy with the amount Eugenius paid him for the doors and so he made this little scene and Latin words of derision to poke fun. See the person on the ass and the person on the camel playing pipes. Between the doors leading into the nave find the epitaph by Charlemagne, for Pope Adrian I (772795), in Latin. See if you can find the Latin line for “Adrian and Charles, the King and the Father.” Remember as you read this that Charlemagne wrote this epitaph alegaic poem some 1200 years ago, and that it was originally on Pope Adrian’s tomb. Sacred Places Rediscovering the Churches of Rome 212 The Pavement/The Emperor’s Rota On the floor in front of the main door (about 20 paces from Filarete’s bronze door) is a round slab of red Egyptian porphyry, a rota porfiretica. This used to be in front of the main altar of old Saint Peter’s (one of six, this the only one surviving), and upon this slab the Emperors from Constantine to Federico III in 1432 were crowned. Charlemagne knelt on this slab in 800 for his coronation by Leo III (795-816) as the first Emperor of the West since Romulus Augustulus of 476. Leo pronounced: “To Charles, very devout, Augustus, crowned by God, great and pacific Emperor, life and victory.” The pavement of Saint Peter’s is colored marble which has been inlaid, the design by Bernini. In the very middle of the nave is the coat of arms of John XXIII, whose arms were placed here for the Second Vatican Council in 1962. If you want to, you can walk directly forward from the porphyry slab to see bronze markings/lettering that show the lengths of other (smaller) churches of the world. Bernini made the stucco figures in the spandrels of the arches and the marble decoration of the pillars. The putti hold up the pictures of popes and the papal tiara and keys of Peter (Innocent X’s gift, see his Pamphili dove and olive branch). The holy water basins at the base of the piers on either side of the entrance were designed by Maderno. The Pieta Michelangelo made this when he was twenty-four, paid by French Cardinal Villiers de la Grolaye (or perhaps Cardinal Jean Bilhéres de Lagraulas), Abbot of S. Denis, who meant it as a gift for the French king. The Virgin is very young. Too young some say. Michelangelo said in response to this criticism, “Purity enjoys eternal youth!” Michelangelo signed this sculpture, the only time he signed one: the girdle of Mary has his name on it, and although you can make out the girdle, you’ll need binoculars to see his signature. Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit 213 Walk XI San Pietro in Vaticano Blessed John Paul II Since I was last in Rome John Paul has been moved coincident with his status of Blessed, from the Grottoes to the Chapel left of the Pieta. Christina of Sweden In the right aisle is the monument to Queen Christina of Sweden, the daughter of Gustavus Adolphus, who converted to Catholicism and renounced her crown in 1654. When she renounced the throne, Prime Minister Count Brate refused to remove the queen’s crown from her head; she did it herself and handed it to the Chancellor. Pope Alexander VII (1655-1667) welcomed her in triumph at the Porto del Popolo. She died in 1689 at age 63, and she is buried between two Popes, Adrian IV (1154-1159) and Paul II (1464-1471), in the Grottoes below. Carlo Fontana designed her monument made in 1702. The bas-relief represents Christina renouncing Protestantism in 1655, before Cardinals Holstenius and Pimendl and the Archduke and Archduchess of Austria (the “abjuration”). Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit Matilda Also in the right aisle is Countess Matilda of Conossa, whose remains were transferred here in 1635 (she died in 1115) by Urban VIII (16231644). She was the owner and ruler of Tuscany. She was a staunch defender of the Papacy against the incursions of the German Emperor. She had her fortress at Conossa. When Gregory VII (10731085) excommunicated the Emperor Henry IV, she induced the Emperor to travel to her fortress, to which she had brought Gregory, to beg for forgiveness from the Pope, which he did, in sack cloth and on his knees, in the dead of winter! She donated her lands to the Pope at her death. Her monument from Bernini’s school has the absolution of Henry IV by the Pope at Conossa. Cappella del Santissimo Off the right aisle is the Cappella del Santissimo. The “miniature” Tempietto here is by Bernini, who copied Bramante’s Sacred Places Rediscovering the Churches of Rome real life size one at Montorio. The tabernacle is made of lapis-lazuli and gilt bronze. The iron grille which separates the Chapel from the nave is by Borromini. The columns we see were originally around the Confessio, brought here by Constantine. Pietro da Cortona did the painting of The Trinity over the altar. Cappella Gregoriana Next off the right aisle is the Cappella Gregoriana, the work of Giacomo della Porta for Gregory XIII (1572-1585), using the design of Michelangelo. Saint Gregory Nazianzen is buried here. Gregory was Patriarch of Jerusalem and one of the great Doctors of the Church, who died in 390. Gregory has the dubious distinction of being a fellow student of Julian the Apostate at Athens, and the good fortune to have been a good friend of Saint Basil. He rose to be Bishop of Constantinople under Theodosius, from which post he resigned to live a private life on his family’s estate, writing Christian poems and hymns. Clement XIII (Canova) Left of the Cappella Gregoriana is the masterpiece of Canova, the tomb of Clement XIII (1758-69), unveiled in 1795. The Pope kneels in prayer on a pedestal. Below is a vault, with marble lions on guard, and Religion with a crop on the right and the Genius of Death with reversed torch on the left. This tomb is the most beautiful in the basilica. 214 Della Rovere Popes Going further we come to the altar of Saint Michael the Archangel. Saint Petronilla is buried beneath the altar. The two great della Rovere Popes, Sixtus IV and his nephew Julius II, are buried here too. They are under a simple slab, which bears an inscription for them. This is a significant irony, as Julius is more responsible than any other person for the building of Saint Peter’s. Julius’ uncle Francesco (Sixtus IV, 14711484) was the son of a poor fisherman from Savona. He rose to become General of the Franciscans, and a professor at the Universities of Padua, Bologna, and Florence. In 1471 he was elected Pope. It was Sixtus IV who initiated the practice of nepotism on a grand scale, making two nephews Cardinals on the same day (their ages only twenty-six and twenty-eight). He is also the Pope who conspired in the Pazzi affair in which Giuliano de Medici was murdered on the altar during mass at Florence Cathedral in 1478. It was he who fought tirelessly against the onslaught of the Turks. He built the Ponte Sisto, the Sistine Chapel (and caused the painting of great frescoes there by Pinturicchio and others), and built the Hospital of S. Spirito. Napoleon took the crown from Pius and crowned himself, likewise for Josephine. Pius finally did the right thing and signed a Bull of Excommunication, resulting in Napoleon’s march and capture of Rome on July 5, 1808. Pius himself was eventually dragged to France as Napoleon left for his Russian campaign. Just before he abdicated, Napoleon let Pius return to Rome. After Napoleon escaped from Elba, Pius fled to Genoa, and only Waterloo brought his fears to conclusion. The allegories Courage and Faith flank the tomb, and History and Time are represented by two winged genii. We should remember Pius as the kind featured man shown on this tomb, he is one of the Pontiffs who died penniless, for he gave all he had to the poor. Innocent XI Innocent XI (1676-1689) is in the left aisle. The Pope’s monument has a bas-relief depicting the raising of the Turkish Siege of Vienna by the King of Poland John Sobieski in 1683. Baptistery The baptistery is the first chapel to the left of the entrance. The font consists of the antique porphyry sarcophagus of the Emperor Hadrian. Carlo Fontana did the bronze cover. Stuarts The monument to the English Stuarts is by Canova, with the shape of a stele. Though Sixtus is buried here, Sixtus’ massive slab monument is now in the museum that is off the left aisle of the nave, done by Antonio Pollaiuolo. The pope lies on a bronze couch, surrounded by bas-reliefs of Arithmetic, Geography, Philosophy and Theology (the latter represented by Diana with a bow and quiver of arrows), all due to Sixtus’ professorial status. Leo the Great The Altar of Leo the Great, with Alessandro Algardi’s massive relief of Leo v. Attila, is to the left of the tribune. Left Transept We now go around to the left transept. In the central altar of the transept are the relics of Saint Simon and Saint Jude. Pius VIII The monument of Pius VIII (18291830) is above the door to the sacristy. It was he who, as a Canon Law student in Rome, heroically resisted the fiend Napoleon, who dragged him off to France in 1800 for refusing to submit. He became Cardinal in 1816, pope in 1829. Cappella Clementina To the left is the Cappella Clementina, done by Giacomo della Porta, for Clement VIII (1592-1605). Saint Gregory the Great is buried beneath the altar. Gallery of the Winter Choir The monument of Pius VII (1800-1823), is above the door leading to the gallery of the Choir. It was he who signed the dreaded Concordat with the evil Napoleon in 1801, participating in his crowning as Emperor in Paris in 1804 at Notre Dame. Remember how A TOUR OF BERNINI’S WORKS IN SAN PIETRO Maffeo Barberini became Pope Urban VIII in August of 1623 and he at once engaged the already famous Gian Lorenzo Bernini to decorate the interior of Saint Peter’s. The Chronological List of Bernini’s Works in Saint Peter’s Bernini, now the official ‘Architect of Saint Peter’s,’ began numerous projects that were to be worked on at the Basilica, many concurrently, for fifty-six years. His first commission was the main altar baldacchino, which he began in 1624 and finished nine years later in 1633. Simultaneously he worked on the piers that supported the cupola in the central crossing of the church. This included the installation of balconies over the niches he was making in each of the four piers to house the colossal statues of Helen, Longinus, Veronica and Andrew (these four saints were chosen because their relics were in Saint Peter’s). This work was completed in 1640. Then in 1628 he began the tomb for Urban, destined for the niche on the right of the apse, which was almost twenty years in the making. The placement of the four saints in the niches of the cupola support piers meant that Paul III’s tomb had to be moved from its first location in one of the piers, and Bernini put it in the niche 215 Walk XI San Pietro in Vaticano Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit on the left of the apse, to balance Urban’s tomb on the right. Bernini simultaneously worked on the relief ‘Pasce Oves Meas’ (1623-1646) for the vestibule and the tomb of Countess Matilda for the right aisle (1633-1637). The marble incrustation of the pilasters of the Church’s chapels and under the arches of the nave was done 1645-1649. The chair of Saint Peter (Cathedra Petri) in the apse was made between 1657 and 1665. Perhaps Bernini’s greatest work, the square of Saint Peter’s, was executed from 1656 to 1667 (finished under Alexander VII). The Scala Regia on the right side of the square and leading to the Papal palace, was made from 1663-1666. In 1670 Bernini completed the statue of Constantine for the landing at the foot of the Scala (completed under Clement IX). Bernini (after he did the angels on the Ponte Sant’Angelo) finished his work in Saint Peter’s with the tomb of Alexander VII (1672-1678) and the altar in the Cappella del Sacramento (1673-1674). The Piazza di San Pietro We now proceed spatially from the front of Saint Peter’s, into the greatest piazza in the world. It is 240 meters across, 284 columns and eighty-eight pilasters strong, with an “army of giant saints and martyrs,” and a “forest of statues,” ninety six in all on top of the colonnade, many if not most designed by Bernini. The statues are all of travertine, all were “carefully prepared by the master,” although several noted sculptors participated. The northern arm of statues was done Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit Sacred Places Rediscovering the Churches of Rome 216 first, the southern after Alexander VII’s death, and the figures above the corridors last (under Clement XI) (not based on Bernini’s design). The colonnades are sixty one feet wide and sixty four feet high. Constantine / The Scala Regia In the portico, we see Bernini’s statue of Constantine on the right, on the main landing in the ‘piano reale’ of the Scala Regia, finished in 1670. The Scala Regia is the ceremonial entrance to the Vatican Palace. The Coridore del Bernini is at the end of the right hand portion of the curve of Bernini’s colonnade. The new staircase he designed was made between 1663 and 1666. The Scala Regia is a trompe-l’oeil, the two rows of columns shrinking from front to back, creating the illusion of a grand staircase, while the reality is a “steep and irregularly shaped” stairs, at the top of which we see the Chigi stars in a row across the arch, to accompany the Chigi coat of arms on the arch at the bottom. Pasce Oves Meas (Feed My Sheep) From here, we are back at the entrance, at the Pasce Oves Meas, a marble relief about 5 meters square, which sits high above the central entrance in the portico. It was first in the nave, on the inside wall above the portal. The relief was finished in 1646, and shows Jesus giving the keys to Peter. Bernini used great foreshortening in this relief, due to its high position. Medallions of the Martyr Popes As we walk toward the baldacchino from the entrance, we see to left and right more of Bernini, in the incrustation of the pilasters. There are here thirty eight oval medallions of the popes, all martyrs from Peter to Benedict I, done in 1647 and 1648. Baldacchino The beautiful and enormous baldacchino is mostly bronze, and partly gilt. Bernini did the columns first and then the crown and sculptures. It took him three years to prepare the models and cast the columns using bronze from the ribs of the Saint Peter dome and the portico or the coffery of the Pantheon (“Quod non fecerunt barbari fecerunt Barberini”), or perhaps some was brought from Venice. It is the greatest kingly canopy ever created, and sits squarely over the main altar and Saint Peter’s tomb. The twisted bronze columns imitate the twisted bronze columns Constantine used for the Shrine of Saint Peter (now in the balconies in the dome’s supporting piers and in the Cappella di Sacramento). The two Constantinian columns that are by the altar in the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament were the direct inspiration for the columns of the baldacchino. Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit 217 Walk XI San Pietro in Vaticano Constantine’s Columns Constantine graced Peter’s grave with six carved marble columns from Greece. Bernini took these six to place in the galleries of Helena, Veronica and Andrew. These were “cut to a gentle spiral like an old-fashioned stick of barley-sugar, and carved with alternate bands of spiral fluting and of vine-scroll, with naked, winged cupids playing among the foliage.” In the eighth century, six similar columns were added, a gift from the Byzantine Exarch. Two of these are in the gallery above Longinus. Two of these are in the Cappella Santissimo. One, that legend held to have come from Solomon’s temple, is in the Treasury (entrance left aisle), and one is missing. The Barberini (Urban VIII) arms are on the four marble pedestals of the pillars for the columns. The Barberini bees are all over; see the bay leaves on the columns. The marble pedestals have escutcheons, the Barberini bees have a series of heads above them. These heads show a pregnant woman in several expressions of pain. The last pedestal on the right has the face of a smiling baby. To this Bernini added lizards, herbs, and a rosary – see if you can find them! There are four giant bronze angels above the columns, and also two pairs of putti with tiara and the keys of Saint Peter and two pairs with sword and book (Saint Paul), just like the pilasters in the nave, between the scrolls of the work. Longinus / Veronica / Helen / Andrew In order to make the niches and the balconies, Bernini first had to hollow out each of the four piers supporting the dome, no small engineering feat. The four colossal saints—Longinus, Veronica, Helen, and Andrew-- were picked because they were the saints of the four sacred relics that Saint Peter’s possessed (and which the popes wished to exhibit from the balconies above the saints, on special occasions). Bernini executed Saint Longinus (John 19:34; tradition gives his name as Gaius Cassius Longinus) himself (after executing twenty-two clay models!), and prominent sculptors made the other three; Duquesnoy sculpted Saint Andrew with his cross, said to be based on statues of Jupiter. The statues are beautiful and you can see in each the image of the sacred relic. Longinus holds the spear with which he pierced Jesus (“Truly this man was the Son of God”). The marble came from Carrara. This statue, more than any other, shows Bernini’s mastery of marble treatment. It took him three years to do the actual work. A close look at Longinus’ head shows the Sacred Places Rediscovering the Churches of Rome development of the baroque gaze and the rhythm of its curves; the position of his arms the evocative emotion he felt. His soldier’s helmet, at his feet, is a work of art all its own. The other statues have Helen with the true Cross she brought from the Holy Land, Veronica with the veil she used to wipe Jesus’ face on the way of the Cross (at Saint Peter’s from the eighth century), and Saint Andrew with his diagonal cross (his head came to Rome in 1462 – returned by Paul VI to the Greek Church). The balconies were, in times past, used to exhibit the relics on specified holy days. Cathedra of Saint Peter The Cathedra of the tribune was made well after the baldacchino. Bernini planned it to fit with the canopy, and carefully positioned it so that as you enter the church the chair of Peter is framed by the columns of the Baldacchino—a “picturesque fata morgana.” The best parts of the Cathedra are Bernini’s bronze statues of two Latin and two Greek Doctors of the Church (Ambrose, Augustine, Athanasius and Chrysostom). The chair of Saint Peter imbedded in the Cathedra is of wood with ivory ornamentation. It is not actually old enough to be Saint Peter’s and is believed to date to Charlemagne’s time. Bernini has encased it in bronze, accompanied with gilded reliefs. Bernini has surrounded all this with clouds and many angels, which envelope the apse window in which the Holy Spirit is centered. 218 Paul III Paul III’s (Allesandro Farnese) monument is on the left of the apse. This tomb is by Guglielmo della Porta and I cover it in the Bernini walk because it was placed by Bernini where we see it today. Allesandro became cardinal (at age twenty-four) because his sister was the mistress of Rodrigo Borgia (Alexander VI). He was already father to four illegitimate children, but on becoming a Cardinal, he reformed his life, and lived as a true Christian. He was elected Pope in 1534. The Jesuits were founded during his reign, and Henry VIII was formally excommunicated (1538). It was he who commissioned Michelangelo to paint the Last Judgment in the Sistine Chapel and to continue the work on new Saint Peter’s. The monument has the Pope seated, as an old man, his eyes in meditation. Wisdom with a torch and Justice with a mirror flank the sarcophagus. Wisdom is actually Giovanna Gaetani, the Pope’s mother, and Justice the Pope’s sister, Guilia. These figures were originally nude, and so Bernini made them clothes of tin. Urban VIII The tomb of Urban VIII (Matteo Barberini) (1623-1644) on the right of the apse has the Pope in bronze seated above a beautiful sarcophagus of black and yellow marble. Charity with an infant and Justice with a sword are at the sides. The skeleton is gilt, his figure sits on the tomb and writes the Pope’s name on the book of the dead. Urban VIII is responsible for launching Bernini on the Saint Peter’s project. He was elected to the papacy in 1623. His coat of arms include the ubiquitous bees, which we encounter all over Rome, mostly due to works by Bernini. He brought the remains of Countess Matilda of Tuscany to Rome. He was a ferocious practitioner of nepotism. But he did give us Bernini. With Urban’s tomb, Bernini returned the sarcophagus to Papal tombs (from Leo X to Paul V the sarcophagus had been abandoned). Tempietto From Urban’s tomb we go back down the right aisle to the altar of the Blessed Sacrament. Bernini was old when he carried out this work and while on many other projects he was the designer but not the maker, he himself made the two angels on the altar. The domed circular tabernacle (a gilded bronze pyx) designed by Bernini is, of course, based on the Tempietto of Bramante at San Pietro in Montorio. Bernini used gold and lapis lazuli to express the “beauty and radiance of God.” The two columns flanking the altar are from the shrine of Saint Peter and were formerly in the Confessio, and which were the models for the high altar baldacchino. Matilda Matilda is in the right aisle, across and back from the Cappella di Sacramenta. Matilda was the twelfth century ruler of all Tuscany venerated by Urban VIII for her heroic defense of the Papacy. Bernini did the drawings, models, and then retouched and finished the work of others who did the execution. The relief shows the Emperor Henry IV kneeling before Pope Gregory VII at Canossa, a meeting engineered by Matilda. Alexander VII It was this Chigi Pope, Alexander VII, who commissioned Bernini’s Scala Regia and the Colonnade. This tomb is in the left transept area. The last work of Bernini in Saint Peter’s is this tomb. It is unusual because it is positioned over a door, which Bernini makes to seem the entrance to the tomb. While the pope kneels above, the macabre skeleton comes from under a jasper shroud, with the hour glass to show the Pope that his time on earth has expired. There is no sarcophagus in this tomb, but four allegories, two in front and two behind, in the fashion of a tomb that is freestanding. This was the custom in Naples, where Bernini spent his early years. The shroud was new to Bernini’s sculpture. Charity, Truth, Prudence and Justice are the allegories, and they were designed by Bernini to appear in the human sphere, and he ‘enveloped’ them ‘in the paper shroud feigning real material.’ The Pope has passed from earth into a higher sphere. The drapery motif was one that Bernini used later in his life to achieve a “differentiation of realities.” THE CRYPT/VATICAN GROTTOES This is the basement, the level below the Church, You enter from a passageway on the right of the which serves as the burial crypt for the Popes. steps leading up to the Basilica. Saint Peter A beautiful statue of Saint Peter by Arnolfo di Cambio is at the entrance to the Grottoes. The body of this statue is ancient Roman (second century) but the arms and the head are very early Renaissance, and now assigned (like the Saint Peter’s upstairs) to Arnolfo di Cambio. This curly haired and curly bearded Peter is just as warm and human as his counterpart in the Church above. Calixtus III On the left as we enter is the empty sarcophagus of the first Borgia Pope, Calixtus III (1455-1458). Calixtus was valiant in his unsuccessful pursuit of a crusade against the Turks, whose invasions of Christian territories seemed to have no end. He unfortunately practiced nepotism and appointed as Cardinal his nephew Rodrigo, beginning the ignoble career of a rightly despised Pope, Alexander VI. Opposite Calixtus are columns (the eleventh position) from old Saint Peter’s, which have stood just as we see them (in situ) since the fourth century. Also in the entrance hall is a Madonna Dolorosa (a copy) flanked by marble panels with Ambrose, Gregory the Great (see the dove whispering in his ear), Jerome and Augustine. Making the turn to the right, we are now in the right aisle (North) of the crypt, and we see more sarcophagi of the Popes. 219 Walk XI San Pietro in Vaticano Boniface VIII On the left is the tomb of Boniface VIII, who reigned from 1294-1303. His reign precipitated the exile of the Popes to Avignon, which lasted some 70 years and which extinguished the early Renaissance in Rome, which had flourished during the last third of the thirteenth century. Boniface’s tomb is by one of the great forerunners of the Renaissance, Arnolfo di Cambio. Boniface’s tomb was a grand affair, with not only the sarcophagus we see here, but also a mosaic done by Jacobi Torriti, another of the Renaissance pioneers, whose mosaics we see at the Maggiore and the Laterano. Arnolfo made a splendid ciborium and altar. All this was destroyed by Paul V (Borghese) in 1605 to make way for new Saint Peter’s, with only the sarcophagus being transferred to the crypt. If you can get into the Chapel of the Partorienti in the Grottoes, you can see on the wall the Boniface ciborium and tomb in a fresco. Boniface VIII was the first pope to use a tiara with two crowns, and Arnolfo has given the effigy such a tiara. The individualization we see in Boniface’s face shows Arnolfo’s skill in projecting the Pope’s personality. Nicolas V Next we go to the tomb of Nicolas V (1447-1453), on the right, a great Pope because he began the period of the high Renaissance in Rome. He is known as the great humanist Pope because he was learned in history and the arts, and promoted the rebirth of culture in Rome. In 1606 Paul V (Borghese) had Nicolas moved to the grottoes. The Pope’s figure is tilted toward us by the unknown artist. It was this Pope who first used the emblem of two crossed keys which we now so closely associate with the Popes, and which we see in the coat of arms flanking the sarcophagus. The long latin inscription was written by a humanist friend of Nicolas, Ernea Silvio Piccolomini, the future Pope Pius II. The last sentence is well worth translating, and obeying: “PRODI DIT EN TVMVLO FVNDITE THVRA SACRO.” In the floor across from Nicolas is a Polyandrium. When Paul destroyed so many tombs in old Saint Peter’s, and tore up so much of the pavement, his workmen discovered many graves, some identifiable, some not. The bones of these faithful were deposited into the Polyandrium, or common grave. Paul II Next is the sarcophagus of Paul II, also on the right. Paul’s bones are no longer here, having been lost in 1574 as part of the rebuilding! Paul was the great Venetian Pope, Pietro Barbo, who reigned from 1464-1471. Mino da Fiesole and Giovanni Dalmata were engaged to produce a magnificent colossal monument, rudely destroyed 1544-1574 as new Saint Peter’s was built. What we have left here is the sarcophagus by Mino. The figure of the Pope is by Dalmata. Gallery of Clement VIII After this, on the right, is the gallery of Clement VIII, built by him in 1593. Here we see the mosaic Bath of the Child from the Oratory of John VII in the Old Church (the famous Byzantine addition to old Saint Peter’s (705-707) destroyed by Paul V in 1606). John VII is in the portrait, with the miniature of his oratory in his hands. Also here is the Savior (He has a volumen in His left hand) and the precious fragment of the mosaic of Saint Peter from the triumphal arch of S. Paulo fuori le mura, destroyed in the fire of 1827 (this dates to Leo the Great, around 440-450 AD). Paul VI We stop to pray at Paul VI’s tomb, the Pope who gave us Humana Vitae. In his will he said “no monument for me.” Yes. Donatello’s school made the Virgin and Child relief here. Charlotte We stop next at the tomb of Charlotte, Christian Queen of Cyprus, who died in 1487, hounded by the muslims, and the Sultan of Egypt in particular (in league with her scheming brother in law). Christine Christine, Queen of Sweden, is adjacent. She was the daughter of the great King Gustavus Adolphus. She abjured Protestantism in 1655 at Innsbruck. John Paul the Great John Paul the Great rested in the next chapel until his designation as Blessed in 2011, on which occasion he moved upstairs next to the Pieta. And that ends the right or north aisle. Sacred Places Rediscovering the Churches of Rome Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit 220 Chapel of the Madonna The Chapel of the Madonna between Peter and Paul is immediately to the right of the Confessio of Saint Peter which is in the middle of the crypt. This Chapel has a most exquisite relief done by Isaia da Pisa in 1451, which has Mary and the baby Jesus surrounded by eight praying angels, flanked by Peter with his key and Paul with his sword. The most interesting features are, of course, the two semi-miniature figures of Pope Eugenius IV (1431-1447) and his nephew, Pietro Barbo (to become Paul II). See Barbo’s cardinal’s hat at his knees. On the left is a sarcophagus which has a fourth century relief of the Adoration of the Magi (perhaps the oldest such representation) and on the left Joseph is rescued from the well and sold into slavery by his jealous brothers. Pius VI (who died at the hands of the fiend Napoleon in 1799 in Valence in France) is buried in this sarcophagus (at the direction of Pius XII in 1949). Confessio of Saint Peter We move left to the Confessio, which has above it an inscription: “The Selpulchre of the Apostle Saint Peter.” The opening from the crypt to the Confessio was made by John Paul II in 1979. The two lions we see are from 1389 (they were for the sarcophagus of Urban VI). The two Cosmati angels are from the thirteenth century. At this point, if we can, we visit the area behind the Confessio. There is a semicircular corridor around the back of the Confessio, called the Clementine Peribolos. Sculptures of the twelve apostles are in this hallway (some are on loan or in restoration), placed here in 1616 but done in 1474-5 (Saint James the Greater is by Mino da Fiesole) for Sixtus IV for the Confessio. Peter and Paul were made by Paolo Romano in 1470. Chapel of the Madonna of the Bocciata On the south end of the Peribolos is the Chapel of the Madonna of the Bocciata, so named because the cheek of the Madonna in the painting over the altar is enlarged, due to a drunken soldier who threw a stone at the painting in 1440. When this happened, the Virgin began crying tears of blood. The two stones adjacent to the altar, protected by iron grating, were the ones upon which these tears of blood fell. This Madonna is said to be from the school of Pietro Cavalllini, which places it in the pre-Avignon Renaissance of the thirteenth century. This Chapel also has a fresco which shows the now demolished Oratory of John VII, built in old Saint Peter’s at the beginning of the eighth century. Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit Clementine Chapel At the midpoint of the Peribolos is the Clementine Chapel ad caput sancti Petri, which sits in a position exactly opposite the Confessio; i.e., on the back side of the tomb of Saint Peter. This Chapel was redone by Clement VIII in 1592. 221 Walk XI San Pietro in Vaticano This exquisite chapel and its ciborium and precious mosaics were destroyed by Paul V (Borghese) in 1608 to make way for the new Church. The ciborium was used for the relic of the Holy Veil of Veronica. Also here is the mosaic of Saint Paul from the apse of Innocent III, which is of the earliest Christian mosaics. It is classically Roman, and the way the artist mosaiced Paul’s head in concentric circles is remarkable. Then we have the fresco of old Saint Peter’s, “View of the Old Basilica.” Finally, here is a fragment from old Saint Peter’s done by Bregno, which shows the tabernacle that housed the relic of the Holy Lance, done in 1495. The angels with spreading wings are beautiful. See the lance and sponge on the door. Jesus rises from the tomb above. Peter’s Tomb Next we try to see the opening (made in 1980) that is somewhat opposite the Bocciata through which it is possible to see the second century trophy for Peter’s tomb. Remember that in the second century the Christians built a small altar over Peter’s grave, called the Trophy of Gaius. Looking into this hole you can see the southern column of the aedicule that was part of the Trophy. Also close to this on the wall of the Peribolos is the cross which graced the facade of old Saint Peter’s, taken down in 1606. Chapel of the Madonna of Partorienh The chapel of the Madonna of Partorienh is next to the Bocciata, and was made in 1616 for Paul V. The image (fresco) over the altar (Antoniozzo Romano) was in the old basilica and was the special object of prayer of pregnant women. The most precious thing in the Partorienh Chapel is the part of Giotto’s Navicella, the bust of an angel. This piece was discovered in 1924, under a mosaic done in 1728. The Giotto Navicella was priceless, its destruction a crime, and the preservation of this one piece an act of God. This chapel also has important paintings of old Saint Peter’s and the Choir of Sixtus IV (see Michelangelo’s Pieta which was for a time in that choir). There is also a rectangular area on the Sacred Places Rediscovering the Churches of Rome right with an inscription marking the place where Popes Leo I, II, III and IV were once buried. In 1715 the remains were placed under the altar of Saint Leo in the Basilica. As we exit the Peribolos, we note part of the Epitaph of Gregory the Great on the wall: “A D C H R IS T V M A NGL O S C ON V E RT I T PI ETAT E M AG I S T R A /A D QV I R E N S F I D E I AG M I N A GE N T E NOVA” commemorating his conversion of England and a beautiful marble relief by Isaia da Pisa showing the exposition of the Head of Saint Andrew, and a mosaic of Mary with Jesus enthroned, from the ciborium of the Holy Veil of Pope John VII. Chapel of Saint Andrew We pass by the gated Chapel of Saint Andrew corresponding to the pier/ niche in the Basilica above (as do the Chapels of Longinus, Helen, and Veronica). In this chapel are two marble columns from the rail of the ancient ciborium of the Holy Lance, done in 1495 (shortly after the Lance was given by the Turkish Sultan Bayazet II to Innocent VIII in 1492). The lance is today in a crystal reliquary in the ciborium of Veronica. Left Aisle We return from the Peribolos to the left aisle (south) and view more sarcophagi. Here is the tomb of James III, Charles Edward and Henry Benedict Stuart, all buried here in 1939. Next we stop at the tomb of Hadrian IV (1154-1159), Nicolas Breakspear, the only English Pope, who died in 1159. He is in a third century Egyptian granite sarcophagus. There are two Medusae on the lid, and a bueranium in the center. Emperor Otto II’s tomb (d 983), close to the exit, shows the porphyry lid which came from the tomb of Hadrian (this is now the baptismal font in the main basilica). The strigilled sarcophagus we see today was supplied in 1610. In the floor in front of Otto is another polyandrium built by Paul V in 1607 for remains discovered in the demolition of old Saint Peter’s. And that ends our visit to San Pietro. Pray for Peter’s intercession as you take your final leave of this glorious, glorious Church. 222 Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit San Pietro in Vaticano 1. Piazza of San Pietro - Bernini 2. Saints atop Colonnade - Bernini and School 3. Navicella - replacement for Giotto’s original 4. Bernini’s Pasce Oves Meas 5. Porticus of Carlo Maderno 6. Central Door of Filarete 7. Bernini’s Constantine 8. The Jubilee Holy Door 9. Bottom Reverse of Filarete Door 10. Holy Water Font 11. Pieta / Blessed John Paul II (adjoining chapel) 12. Emperor’s Rota 13. Right Aisle - Christina of Sweden 14. Right Aisle - Matilda 15. Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament Borromini and Bernini 16. Canova’s Tomb for Clement XIII 17. Bernini’s Tomb for Urban VIII 18. Bernini’s Chair of St. Peter 19. della Porta’s tomb for Paul III 20. Tomb of Pope St. Leo the Great 21. Bernini’s Baldacchino, Confessio of Saint Peter 22. The bronze Peter by Arnolfo di Cambio 23. Longinus by Bernini 24. Helen 25. Veronica 26. Andrew 27. Bernini’s Tomb for Alexander VII 28. Door to Treasury, Monument to Sixtus IV/ Pollaiuolo 29. Clementine Chapel / Tomb of Pope St. Gregory the Great 30. Canon’s Chapel by Carlo Moderno, Stalls by Bernini 31. Bronze of Innocent / Pollaiuolo 32. Baptistery 223 Walk XI San Pietro in Vaticano Rilla aciduis nim nibh esequis etuer sit loreet acin vel ilisit Vatican Grottoes 1. Entrance, Statue of Peter, Arnolfo di Cambio 2. Boniface VIII / Arnolfo 3. Nicolas III 4. Nicolas V 5. Pius VI / Canova 6. Passageway to Vatican 7. Christina of Sweden 8. Carlotta of Cyprus 9. Former site: John Paul II 10. Chapel of Saint Longinus 11. Madonna / Isaia da Pisa 12. Tomb of Peter 13. Chapel of Helen 14. Pius XII 15. Clement VIII / Clementine Chapel of Peter 16. Chapel of Veronica 17. Chapel of Bocciata 18. Chapel of Partorienti 19. Peribolos 20. Chapel of Andrew 21. Tomb of Stuarts 22. Hadrian IV 23. Otto II 24. Exit Sacred Places Rediscovering the Churches of Rome 224