- Jsunpack

The Fundamentals of Style: How to be a well-dressed man
By James Gallichio
Copyright 2012 James Gallichio
Kindle Edition, License Notes
This ebook is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not be re-sold or given
away to other people. If you are reading this book and did not purchase it, I’m not one to judge.
However, if you enjoyed this book and found it useful, please recommend it to a friend.
Thank you for respecting the hard work of the author
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PREFACE
PART 1: THE FUNDAMENTALS OF STYLE
Introduction
CHAPTER 1: How do you want to look?
Finding your measurements
CHAPTER 2: Common Style Mistakes
Style Mistake #1: Wearing clothes that don’t fit
Style Mistake #2: Wearing clothes that don’t suit your body type
Style Mistake #3: Wearing worn out clothes
Style Mistake #4: Wearing bad dress shoes
Style Mistake #5: Wearing colours that don’t match your complexion
Style Mistake #6: Not matching colour to the occasion
Style Mistake #7: Wearing overly complicated clothes
Style Mistake #8: Wearing fad clothes
Style Mistake #9: Wearing clothes that don’t match your age
Chapter 3: How to shop
Before you leave the house
Choosing the right store
Once you’re inside
Talking to sales assistants
PART 2: THE BASIC WARDROBE
Introduction
CHAPTER 1: Jackets
Different formal jacket styles
How to tell if a formal jacket fits
Different ways to wear a formal jacket
Different elements in a formal jacket
An introduction to casual jackets
Different Casual Jacket Styles
How to tell if a casual jacket fits
Different ways to wear a casual jacket
CHAPTER 2: Coats
Different Coat Styles
How to tell if a coat fits
Different ways to wear coats
CHAPTER 3: Pants
Different Pant Cuts
Different Pant Styles
How to tell if pants fit
Different ways to wear pants
CHAPTER 4: Jumpers
Different knit types
Different jumper styles
How to tell if a jumper fits
Different ways to wear a jumper
CHAPTER 5: Shoes
Shoes, Part 1: Dress
Shoes, Part 2: Casual
Chapter 6: Boots
Good vs bad boots
Different boot styles
CHAPTER 7: Shirts
Dress shirts
T-Shirts
Chapter 8: What to do from here
MORE FROM THIS AUTHOR:
Preface
There are many books on the market about men’s style. You can go to any bookstore and be greeted
by 5 or so, all virtually identical, all promising a definitive guide to dressing well.
What they don’t tell you, however, is that they mean to dress you in a very specific way; the kind of
style that looks great in the office or at a dinner party, but little elsewhere.
What book is there that tells you how to have a cool, casual street style? What book shows you how
to roll the sleeves on a blazer, or how to layer a casual jacket beneath a formal coat? For those who
want a guide that skews away from a very broad assertion of “how a man should look”, there is very
little on offer.
Conservative styles have been developed over hundreds of years to effortlessly flatter a man’s body.
As such, men’s style books tend to believe that every man who is learning about style should begin by
dressing conservatively.
I agree wholeheartedly, with one simple caveat: aside from simply knowing the rules, you should
also know how to break them.
Once a man understands the fundamentals of style, he’ll often begin to feel quite restricted. He’ll
begin to crave deviation; to experiment with clothes in a way that truly makes a statement. For some,
this means honing a keen appreciation for suits, ties, pocket squares and fine tailoring; for others, it
means ditching a corporate style and crafting something entirely unique.
This book is for men who want to find a style that suits them, rather than the author. It addresses all of
the same things as the aforementioned one-size-fits-all books do – how to tell if things fit, how to
discern between good and bad clothes, how to put outfits together – but it is also non-judgemental. It
focuses on a wardrobe based around versatility. It focuses on the way you wear clothes and how they
affect the way you look. And above all, it focuses on helping you choose clothes that can be worn in
many different outfits as your style develops over time.
There are no clear-cut rules on what the right clothes are for any specific man. But this book aims to
give you all the necessary tools to build a style that is, above all else, yours.
Part 1: The Fundamentals of Style
Introduction
My day job is personal styling. That is, I work with men of all ages, shapes, sizes and budgets and
help them find clothes that fit their body, their lifestyle and their personality.
During these consultations, I need to learn as much about my clients as possible; what they do for fun,
what kind of clothes they currently wear, even things as seemingly-innocuous as the kind of books
they read or the kind of music they’re drawn to. All of this helps to narrow down the best direction to
take their style. The easiest way to do this is to simply visit the client’s house – not only to assess
their current wardrobe, but also to get a sense of their possessions and surroundings.
Often, I’m caught off-guard – like the time I visited a client who dressed quite conservatively, only to
find that his house was a quasi-bondage-chamber. Another surprising house call was for a client in
his late-teens – a 6-figure-a-year poker champion living in a penthouse apartment – who owned no
furniture, no cutlery and no clothes save for a baggy pair of jeans and an old green t-shirt.
Enter “John” (name changed for confidentiality purposes). John was a young guy, 21, who wanted a
dapper, suave and mature style. When he walked into a room, he wanted people to think “This guy’s
in control”.
As soon as he said this, I knew I was in for a challenge. Not only did he have a young and chubby
face, but he was also socially awkward and unaware of social propriety. Far removed from “dapper,
suave and mature”.
But I’m always up for a challenge, and I had some great things planned for John that I thought would
help him look great and become more confident.
When I visited his room I was shocked. A single bed, adorned with racing car bed sheets; bikini-clad
“Ralph” and “Maxim” posters all over the walls; a fine layer of dust coating everything in sight.
This is the gent who wanted to be suave, cool and mature.
I had an honest talk with him and relayed a sentiment that I now share with every one of my clients:
Dressing well, being charming, having confidence, having a strong sense of style – none of this is
about the clothes you wear. Nice clothes don’t automatically make you better than anyone else, nor do
they suddenly give you something that you didn’t have before. Being a well-dressed, modern man is
not a mask that you put on in the morning and take off at night; it has to envelop every part of you.
I asked John to imagine Sean Connery’s James Bond, a character who exemplified his ‘ideal John’.
Imagine him, all suave and cool, charming people wherever he goes. Now imagine him coming home
to a bedroom with FHM posters on the wall and racing car bed sheets. It would simply never happen.
Being a modern man requires confidence, self-control, respect and charm. These aren’t attributes that
this book can magically provide for you; you have to learn them for yourself.
But I can sure as hell make you look good while you do it.
CHAPTER 1:
How do you want to look?
Believe it or not, this is a question that very few men ever ask themselves. “I just want to look like
me!” they say – but what does that really mean?
Every man should dress in a way that suits his job, his body type and his tastes. Very few high-flying
corporate superstars want to dress in a relaxed urban streetwear style, and very few heavy metalloving men want to dress in conservative business suits. The goal is to find a style that compliments
your personality and lifestyle.
Here are some simple questions to get you started:
Do I have to dress a particular way for work?
What do I want to my clothes to say about me?
When I walk into a room, how do I want people to feel about me?
Are there any styles that I plainly don’t like?
What men (if any) do I want to model myself on?
Your answers are entirely personal; everyone is different, and everyone has unique characteristics
that they want to present to the world. I suggest that you write them down – or at the very least, keep
them in mind as you read this book.
The next step is to decide on a style that fits the answers you’ve given above. These are generic
styles, and you may find that a combination of styles fits you better than just one. A few examples of
different styles include:
·
Formal
·
Business casual
·
Preppy
·
Dapper
·
Schoolboy
·
Mod
·
Outdoor Adventurer
·
Casual streetwear
·
Dark and drapey
·
Metal
·
Punk
·
Fashion-forward
·
Goth Ninja
Most men aren’t defined by one particular style. This is why versatility is key; a man’s wardrobe
should be full of clothes that can be worn in a variety of styles, rather than forcing him to dress one
way for the rest of his life.
Aside from looking introspectively, there are two simple questions that we can use to determine the
best way to compliment your body type:
Do I see myself as short, average or tall?
Do I see myself as thin, muscly or overweight?
There’s no science behind these questions, nor is there any right or wrong answer to them. The goal is
to get you to take a long look at yourself and self-assess. If you feel like you are overweight, you
should choose clothes that hide your girth and make you appear slimmer; if you feel like you are short,
you should use clothes that elongate your body and make you appear taller.
While this book is geared towards a fundamental understanding of men’s style, others in the series
focus on dressing for your body type. These include:
Style for Short Guys
Style for Tall Guys
Style for Fat Guys
Style for Strong Guys
Style for Thin Guys
Finding your measurements
Becoming a better dressed man is infinitely easier when you know what your sizes are. For the
following exercise you will need a simple tape measure plus a pen and paper to write your
measurements down. Fold them up and put them in your wallet.
When taking these measurements, the tape measure should be snug, but not constricting.
Chest
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The breadth of your chest dictates the width of the shoulder on jackets and coats, making it one of the
most important measurements for a man to know. A jacket’s shoulder is almost impossible to alter, so
it’s essential you get the right size – particularly when buying clothes online.
When taking a chest measurement, make sure that your body is relaxed and your chest isn’t puffed out
or flexed. To measure, wrap the tape measure under your armpits, around the fullest part of your
chest.
Neck
This is the most important size to know when buying shirts. Place the tape measure all the way around
your neck, about an inch below your Adam’s apple.
Sleeve
For shirts and jackets – especially when buying online – it helps to know your sleeve length to save
yourself a trip to the tailor. To do this, measure from your shoulder down to your wrist.
Waist
The waist measurement is taken at the thinnest part of your torso – usually an inch or so above your
belly button – and is the place where most dress pants will sit. Most tailors recommend putting a
single finger between the tape measure and your body, as this allows for maximum comfort.
Note that when casual pants refer to a “waist” size this is a misnomer; they really mean your hip size.
This measurement is taken in the exact same manner as your true waist, although around the widest
part of your hip bones, as shown:
Also note that casual pant sizes do not match up with inch sizes, so always check sizing charts. For
instance, most often a pair of size 30 jeans will actually fit a man with 32-34” hips. Dress pants do
not follow this convention and are generally true to your waist size.
Inseam
When pants give two measurements, like “30x32”, this indicates a size 30 waist and a 32 inch
inseam. The inseam measurement is important as it gives an indication of where your pant leg should
end, and is essential for tall men who generally need at least a 34” inseam.
This measurement is best taken with the help of a (close) friend, who will measure from the bottom of
your crotch to the base of your heel (with your shoes off).
Shoes
The best way to tell your shoe size is to use a Brannock Device (above). These are found in almost
all shoe stores and can tell you the length and width of your foot. Be sure to measure both feet, as one
is often slightly bigger than the other.
CHAPTER 2:
Common Style Mistakes
Style is subjective. What looks great to one man will often look horrible to another. There are,
however, key elements that can make any man look bad, regardless of his style.
The first step in becoming a well-dressed man is to clear your wardrobe of any clothes that are
objectively wrong for you; whether it’s because they don’t fit, because they’re worn out or because
they simply don’t match your style, any ‘bad’ clothes will clutter up your wardrobe and make you feel
worse about your style as a whole.
So after reading this chapter, examine your wardrobe and remove any clothes or shoes that break
these fundamental rules. It’s a cleansing process which not only saves you space but also allows you
to assess your current style and find pieces that need to be updated.
Simple tip for clearing a wardrobe: Place every item in your wardrobe on coat hangers, with the
hanger end facing away from you. Every time you wear an item, turn its hanger towards you.
After three months, remove all of the clothes whose hangers face away from you – these are the
clothes that you don’t wear, and should be donated to second hand stores.
Style Mistake #1: Wearing clothes that don’t fit
The number one issue that prevents men from looking their best is having clothes that don’t fit. It’s the
first thing that people notice about an outfit, regardless of style, colour or quality; if your clothes don’t
fit, they don’t look good.
There are many negative images associated with ill-fitting clothes. When a man wears clothes that are
too big for him, he looks diminutive in comparison – as though he is a child wearing his father’s
clothes. This is particularly detrimental for shorter men, who gain no favours from clothes that make
them look small.
On the other hand, when a man wears clothes that are too small for him, he looks like a giant in
comparison – as though his body is so unusually large that he is unable to find clothes that fit. Toosmall clothes pull on your body in unflattering ways which creates bulges, creases and stress lines.
This is particularly detrimental for tall men and overweight men, who need well-fitting clothes to
make their bodies appear better proportioned.
To ensure your wardrobe is full of clothes that fit and compliment your body, there are detailed fitting
instructions in Part 2 of this book.
Style Mistake #2: Wearing clothes that don’t suit your body type
This goes hand-in-hand with wearing clothes that don’t fit: when a man wears clothes that don’t suit
his body type, the result is always unflattering. For instance, short men should avoid long, flowing
jackets as it diminishes their stature and makes them appear shorter, while muscular men should not
wear tight or slim-fitting clothes of any kind as it makes them look vain and overly-macho.
Although this book gives a general understanding of finding clothes that fit, a detailed guide written
for each specific body type can be found here:
Style for Short Guys
Style for Tall Guys
Style for Fat Guys
Style for Strong Guys
Style for Thin Guys
Style Mistake #3: Wearing worn out clothes
There’s a huge difference between ‘worn out’ and ‘old’ clothing. Old clothes can be fantastic; they
often have a vintage charm that works well when reappropriated into a modern style. If they’re still in
good shape, wear them with pride. “Worn out” clothes, on the other hand, are simply no longer fit for
wear. Examples include:
Frayed, faded, hole-ridden or stained fabric
Stitching that has come apart and causes the garment to pucker
Shirts and t-shirts with yellow stains under the arms
Shoes that are in tatters
T-shirts and jumpers whose necklines have stretched out
Men know when their clothes are worn out, but still make a conscious decision to wear them. As
pyjamas, rags or clothes to be worn while changing your motor oil, they’re fine – but please, for the
love of God, don’t wear them out in public.
Style Mistake #4: Wearing bad dress shoes
There are 3 whole chapters dedicated to shoes in this book, but it bears noting here: most men wear
terrible shoes.
The ideal foot shape is rounded, elegant and congruent with the outfit that sits above it. Shoes that
help attain this shape have round toes and minimal or tasteful embellishments, and are considered
‘good’ shoes.
Here is an example of ‘good’ dress shoe, featuring a open laces, a classic round toe and broguing
along the toe cap:
On the other hand, a ‘bad’ foot shape is one that is boxy, hard and jagged. Shoes that create this kind
of shape have square toes, hard straight lines and are wide and clompy.
Here is an example of ‘bad’ dress shoe, featuring a boxy square toe:
For whatever reason, men give the most attention to the upper parts of their bodies, and the least
attention to those at the bottom. A man is almost always fastidious about his hair and face. His jackets
and shirts are also important, yet receive little attention once they’re on his body. His pants are
usually somewhat of an afterthought, and his shoes are rarely considered and poorly treated.
Do not make this incredibly common mistake. As discussed in Part 2 of this book, shoes are one of
the most important parts of a man’s wardrobe and should always be congruent with the outfit that sits
above it.
Style Mistake #5: Wearing colours that don’t match your complexion
Every man has colours that look bad on him. They wash out his skin, make him look older and
accentuate his blemishes. Most often, we avoid these colours on an unconscious level, as they make
us feel genuinely uncomfortable.
Look in your wardrobe and take note of the colours of the items inside it. Are there any colours that
are prevalent? Are there any colours that are noticeably missing?
Your natural colour palette is composed of the colours of your skin, eyes and hair. Each palette has
colours that naturally compliment it, making you look younger, lively and draw attention away from
skin blemishes. Most men have colour palettes that fall into one of four groups, categorised into
seasons: Winter, Autumn, Summer and Spring.
For men who have a good eye for colour, choosing clothing that naturally compliments your palette is
easy – just buy clothes whose colours make you feel comfortable, relaxed and at ease.
For others, who need a bit more direction, there are entire books on the subject. But first, here’s a
simple guide to help determine which season you fit in to:
Winter:
Most men fall into this category.
You have dark brown or black hair.
You have pale white, olive or dark brown skin.
You have dark eyes.
You have a cold undertone to your skin; grey, white, pink or blue.
Autumn:
You have brown, red, charcoal or golden blonde hair.
You have pale peach, golden beige or golden brown skin.
You have dark brown, dark green or dark blue eyes.
You have a warm undertone to your skin and may have freckles.
Summer:
You have blonde or brown hair.
You have pale white, olive or dark brown skin.
You have blue, green or hazel eyes.
You have a cold undertone to your skin; grey, white, pink or blue.
Spring:
You have blonde, strawberry blonde or auburn hair.
You have light, ivory skin.
You have light blue, light green or light hazel eyes.
You have a warm undertone to your skin, often with freckles and rosy cheeks.
Style Mistake #6: Not matching colour to the occasion
Aside from wearing the wrong colours for your natural palette, many men fail to wear the correct
shade of colour for a particular occasion.
Light colours are best suited to be worn during the day, as they harmonise well with the colours
produced by the light of the sun. Light, muted colours work best in colder months, while bright, rich
colours work well for warmer months.
However, outfits made of predominantly light colours don’t work well at night. They feel out of place
and overly-casual (even if you have a supremely-casual style).
Dark colours, on the other hand, can be worn at any time – but are especially suitable for evening
wear – making them the most versatile items of clothing.
The one exception is the black suit. Black is an incredibly powerful colour for a suit (‘powerful’
meaning bold and imposing). As such it is only appropriate at times when the wearer needs to make a
very bold statement. At funerals you wear black because it mirrors the sombre mood of the occasion;
while at black tie events (like the Oscars) it's a bold indicator of class and culture, hence why most
classic, formal tuxedos are black. For certain occasions a black suit is fine, but as a general business
suit it is far too powerful of a colour. Tone it down by switching to a dark charcoal or navy suit.
This rule applies to almost any style and is discussed in detail in the introduction to Part 2 of this
book. Whether wearing jeans and a t-shirt or a conservative business suit, each element in your
wardrobe has gradations of formality; light is less formal, while dark is more formal.
Style Mistake #7: Wearing overly complicated clothes
Does your shirt really need those epaulettes? Does the nonsensical “1962 ROXTON FRISBEE
CLUB” print on your t-shirt hold any special meaning to you? Did your jeans become ripped and
faded from natural wear and tear, or were they bought that way to make it seem like you live a rugged
and carefree life?
Clothing should be an expression of the self – an extension of the man who wears them. However,
poorly designed clothes often add unnecessary features to help them stand out. These include:
Epaulettes (military shoulders), especially when found on shirts
Unnecessary pockets, zips, patches or buttons
Factory-made rips, fades, frays or creases
Words, numbers or pictures printed onto the garment
“Hybrid” clothes, such as suit jackets with jersey hoodies sewn in
Obnoxious brand names or logos
Each of these traits severely taints a garment and makes it appear overly-designed. It takes elements
of style that are functional (pockets, epaulettes, zips) or earned through wear-and-tear (rips, fades,
fraying, creases) and reappropriates them in a disingenuous way. A metaphorical equivalent would
be a man who has never left his home city telling fantastic stories about far-away lands and his
personal experience with foreign cultures. It’s fashion for fashion’s sake, and is widely regarded as
poor taste.
Whenever you buy a piece of clothing, consider the different elements that comprise it; seek out
simple, minimally-styled pieces that can be used as part of a well-constructed outfit. If a particular
part of a garment feels unnecessary and doesn’t serve a purpose: don’t buy it.
Style Mistake #8: Wearing fad clothes
‘Fad clothes’ refers to styles and garments that are worn purely because they are popular. Examples
include:
Fedoras (unless properly fitted for your head and matched to a suit)
Crocs
Uggs
Slogan or joke-printed t-shirts
Ed Hardy/tattoo-style designs
Wearing colours because they’re “in season” (whatever that means)
Waistcoats (known as vests in the US and Canada) worn on top of t-shirts
Skinny ties worn with a shirt and jeans
Braces (UK) or suspenders (US) worn with jeans
Fashion fads evolve over time and are often region-specific, although those listed above are fairly
ubiquitous. The styles that they present are often borrowed from high-end and fashion-forward
designers, yet by the time they reach low-end markets (that is, stores targeting men who have limited
knowledge of or interest in fashion) they become associated with men who don’t dress well. Thus by
wearing these styles, you look like a man who doesn’t dress well.
A caveat exists for plain, simple clothes – these are minimally designed and are never considered
‘fads’.
Style Mistake #9: Wearing clothes that don’t match your age
Finishing off our list of style mistakes is the all-too-common occurrence of men not dressing like
adults. Here “Men” refers to anyone over 20, although this mistake is most prevalent and detrimental
to middle-aged men.
Gents who fall into this category have, at some point in their lives, decided that dressing in the same
or similar clothes to someone much younger will make them appear younger. Examples include:
Middle-aged men wearing loose-fitting shorts and loud t-shirts
Middle-aged men wearing hoodies
Middle-aged men wearing Chucks, Vans or Volleys
Middle-aged men wearing slogan-print t-shirts, especially when said slogan is sexist or
immature
This position is totally understandable; as a man gets older, he doesn’t want to look old. Dressing like
someone much younger than you is not, however, the quick fix that many men assume it to be. People
can plainly see how old a man is; his face gives it away. So ‘dressing young’ only works to make an
older man look immature – as though he’s clutching on to something that is no longer there.
The solution is to dress more conservatively and to find well-fitting, well designed clothes that show
that you are a man who has gracefully developed his style with age – rather than one who has
emulated the style of a much younger man.
This doesn’t mean that you always have to dress up, or that you can’t wear jeans and a t-shirt. It
simply means that as an older man, your maturity should always be reflected in your dress sense.
Chapter 3:
How to shop
For a man who isn’t used to dressing well, shopping can be a daunting task. When we walk into a
store, we’re instantly overwhelmed by the various sizes, fabrics, cuts and colours of clothes on offer.
Where do you start? What do you say to the sales assistant when they ask you if you need help? How
can you tell if something is worth trying on?
Few clothing guides give any indication on how to shop effectively, to ensure that you feel
comfortable and are able to get exactly what you want. Here are some simple steps that will help to
make shopping a much more enjoyable experience.
Before you leave the house
Shopping is infinitely easier when you have a plan. Are there any holes in your wardrobe? What in
particular are you looking to buy? And what clothes in your current wardrobe will you wear with it?
Think of the clothes that you currently own as one whole wardrobe, rather than several individual
pieces. Any new item that you buy has to work as a functional part of that wardrobe, and must
compliment that various items that already live within it.
When buying a jacket, for example, think about the items that you currently own that can be worn with
it. Perhaps it’s a blazer, and you’ll be wearing it with a shirt, tie and chinos; perhaps it’s an anorak,
and you’ll be wearing it with a t-shirt, a jumper and jeans. Regardless of the style and purpose, wear
the rest of the outfit when you go shopping.
This makes the whole experience much simpler; you can instantly see how your new purchase fits into
your wardrobe as a whole, rather than relying on guesswork.
Choosing the right store
In my experience, the worst clothing stores are the best marketers; they sit on all of the main strips
and in all the major shopping centres, have large stores which are easy to browse and their staff leave
you alone long enough to make a haphazard purchase. They makes it quick and comfortable for men to
spend their hard-earned money, often leaving them with poorly designed, poorly fitted clothes.
On the other hand, stores which have the best clothes are often smaller, tucked away and have staff
who genuinely want to help you look good. For men who are not used to buying clothes, these stores
can often be daunting – but the clothes that you leave with are almost always better fitted and better
designed.
So before you even enter the store, think about whether it’s the best place for you to shop. The
simplest method is to consider the aesthetic of the store. What does it look like? What kind of music
are they playing? What kind of people work there?
Nearly every clothing store on Earth requires their employees to dress using the store’s own clothes.
So rather than looking at mannequins, simply look at the people employed there; if they are people
you’d like to be similar to, then it’s likely a good place for you to shop. By the same token, if you
dislike or feel uncomfortable about the clothes they’re wearing it’s probably best to shop elsewhere.
Once you’re inside
The first thing to do, if it’s a unisex store, is to find the men’s section. Often the store will be split up
into two sides; men on one side, women on the other. Use the store’s mannequins as a guide – where
there are men’s mannequins, there are men’s clothes.
Next, get a sense of what’s in the store by taking a slow walk from one end to the other. Make a
mental note of the general layout and where everything is. If any particular item jumps out at you, stop
and look at it more closely.
The first thing to do is inspect the fabric. Touch it; does it feel soft? Does it feel durable? Does it feel
synthetic or rubbery? Each fabric type suits a particular purpose; the main thing to consider is
whether the fabric feels good to you, and whether it will work as a part of your wardrobe.
Next, look at the colour. Does it compliment the other colours in your wardrobe? Does the colour
appeal to you and make you feel comfortable? Does it make you uncomfortable? The colour of a
garment has a massive impact on the way that it fits into an outfit as a whole, so avoid colours that
feel odd or out of place. In general, most men find that darker, neutral colours are better than brighter,
garish colours.
Then, look at the style of the garment. Assess how it has been designed. Are there any unnecessary
features, or elements that make you think “I wish it didn’t have this”? If any part of the design strikes
you as odd or over the top, avoid it.
Finally, find your size (using the measurements you took in chapter 1) and try it on. If it’s a jacket or
an accessory, you can try it on then and there; anything else should be taken to a dressing room. Using
the “fit” sections of the following chapters, consider how the item sits on your body and whether it
flatters you. Not everything needs to fit correctly straight off the rack – but the more alterations that
need to be made, the more expensive the purchase becomes.
Talking to sales assistants
Soon after you enter a store, a sales assistant will almost always ask if you need any help. Unless you
know the store, know where everything is and know exactly what you want, always thank them and
tell them that you’re just browsing for now.
Follow the advice from the previous step; walk up and down the store, get a sense of the layout and
styles on offer and find pieces that you like. Once you’ve chosen a garment that you think might look
good (if any at all), it’s time to get help. Assistants can give you advice on how the garment is
constructed, different ways that it can be worn, whether the fabric will stretch, shrink or fade over
time and how it can work as a part of an outfit.
It’s important to know that sales assistants are there to help you look good. They are not there to push
you into buying things that you’re unsure about, nor should you be compelled to spend any money at
all.
Thankfully, the best stores have the best sales staff. This means that they are naturally proud of the
products they sell, know that well-dressed men are ambassadors for the clothes they carry and want
you to look your very best
If a sales assistant makes you feel uncomfortable, feels pushy or feels more interested in making a
sale than making you look good, don’t be afraid to ask them to let you browse alone.
Always be friendly and courteous, but also be firm. You’re there to explore and investigate, not to
make a quick sale. If you have a solid idea of what you want to buy, sales staff will be much more
helpful.
Part 2: The Basic Wardrobe
Introduction
In the first part of this book, we discussed the fundamental elements of men’s fashion and how to find
a style that suits you. In part 2, we explore the basic items that will be used to make up your
wardrobe.
Whenever you put on an outfit, you need to assess the kind of man that it creates and what image it
presents to the world. Does it make you look elegant and dapper, adventurous and outdoorsy, or cool,
calm and relaxed? What does the outfit say about you?
Most men judge an outfit by the level of formality that it portrays – an anorak, for example, is far less
formal than a suit jacket. Yet ‘formality’ is such a loosely-defined word, and one which few men ever
really take the time to think about.
Defining Formality
Consider the outfits at the top-end of the formal spectrum: black tie and white tie. Black tie refers to a
tuxedo with a white shirt and black bow tie, while white tie refers to a black tailcoat, black sidestriped pants, a white shirt and white bow tie.
There is a very simple way to visualise formality when it comes to men’s clothing: compare it to
black and white tie.
If a particular garment, embellishment, colour, feature or style brings an outfit closer to black and
white tie: it makes the outfit more formal.
If a particular garment, embellishment, colour, feature or style brings an outfit further away from
black and white tie: it makes the outfit less formal.
Consider a blazer. The cut and style is quite similar to a tuxedo’s jacket. Yet it has patch pockets, a
navy colour and gold buttons which differ from the tuxedo’s piped pockets, black colour and black
buttons – thus making it a less formal jacket. If the blazer had a light colour, it would be even less
formal – as a light colour brings the jacket further away from the tuxedo’s traditional black.
This definition brings forward an important point, which is covered in the ‘common style mistakes’
chapter of this book: because black and white tie outfits are dark coloured and relatively featureless,
any garment comprising light colours and added embellishments instantly becomes less formal.
This makes it clear why dark colours and minimalistic designs are best suited for night time wear:
because they mimic the sleek and simple designs of the tuxedo and tail coat, which in turn mimic the
evening’s natural darkness.
Unless you have a particularly ostentatious style, dark colours will form the bulk of your wardrobe.
This rule applies to any garment, with the exception of dress shirts – as crisp white shirts are used in
formalwear.
While formality is by no means the defining factor in what makes an outfit ‘good’ or ‘bad’, it certainly
plays a major part in its situational propriety. Understanding what makes a piece of clothing more or
less formal helps to put together outfits that fit the specific occasion – whether it be a business
meeting, a dinner date or a quiet coffee at your local cafe.
CHAPTER 1:
Jackets
There’s nothing finer than a man in a well-fitted formal jacket. It denotes power, elegance and class,
and is designed to give each and every man the most flattering of masculine silhouettes; broad
shoulders, large chest and a narrow waist.
Contrast this elegance with the laid back and utilitarian nature of the casual jacket; from blousons to
safari jackets, each strives to be as hassle-free and functional for the wearer as possible.
As noted in the introduction to this section, the colour used in a jacket adds or subtracts from its level
of formality; dark jackets are always more formal, while light jackets are more casual. Note,
however, that a dark casual jacket is less formal than a light coloured formal jacket; the style trumps
the colour in this regard.
While casual and formal jackets are categorically similar – jacket being a catch-all term for a frontfastening, waist-length garment with sleeves – they are stylistically very different. Thus, the following
chapter will be split into formal and casual sections.
Different formal jacket styles
Tuxedo and Tailcoat
A tuxedo (left) is the second most formal outfit a man can wear, a derivative of the most formal – the
tailcoat (right), which is cut higher at the waist and has a tail that flows down the back. Both are
characterised by their satin-faced lapels, which are either peaked or shawl in style (never notch).
Simply put, for most men the tuxedo and tailcoat are only ever worn once or twice in their lives.
Thus, it won’t be a major point of discussion in this book, nor do the following rules apply to them. It
is worth noting, though, that these are the epitomes of formal men’s style. As previously discussed,
anything that brings an outfit closer to black or white tie makes it more formal; anything that brings an
outfit further away from black or white tie makes it more casual.
Suit jacket
As the name suggests, a suit jacket is worn with matching dress pants, as part of a suit. Next to a
tuxedo, it is the most formal style of jacket, and is most often made from soft, tightly-woven wool.
The modern suit is credited to the early 19th century British dandy, Beau Brummel. His goal was to
take men’s fashion away from the outrageously flamboyant and foppish style that came before it. The
simplicity of the well-tailored, understated and minimalistic suit and tie caught on, and evolved into
the two and three-piece suit that we know today.
Avoid suit jackets that are made from polyester, as this is an indicator of poor quality and
construction.
Blazer
A blazer is similar to a suit jacket yet cut and worn more casually. The style evolved from the
uniforms worn in 19th century boating clubs. Traditional blazers are made from deep navy wool and
feature gold buttons and patch pockets.
In modern times, though, blazer has become somewhat of a catch-all term to refer to any jacket isn’t a
part of a suit. Modern adaptations have more subtle buttons, pockets and come in a wide range of
colours and fabrics.
Nehru
The Nehru was popularised in the 1940s by the first Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru. It is a
slim, hip-length jacket with a high stand-up collar, similar in style to many Asiatic jackets including
the Mao Jacket and Gakuran (the jacket used in Japanese male school uniforms). In its purest form,
the Nehru (as well as its Eastern counterparts) is worn with matching pants as part of a suit.
In the West, the Nehru became popular in the 1960s and 1970s due to its sleek and minimalistic
design that worked perfectly with a mod style. It was popularised by The Beatles and The Monkees in
the 60s, and The Doors, Cream and The Mammas and the Papas in the 70s.
The Nehru creates a long, slim silhouette for the torso, and variations can be found in both sleek, dark
colours and bright exuberant patterns.
Sport Jacket
A sport jacket (UK) or sport coat (US) originated from the jackets worn for sporting – particularly
whilst hunting – in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
They are typically made from rough wool tweeds, and tend to feature loud colours and patterns.
Because of this, they are considerably less formal than a suit or a blazer, although they have been a
mainstay of business-casual attire since the 1920s.
How to tell if a formal jacket fits
It’s always a good idea to wear a well-fitted dress shirt whenever buying a formal jacket. Not only
does this help with colour and pattern coordination, but also allows you to test the sleeve length with
ease.
The size of most formal jackets is dictated by the width of your chest. Begin with a jacket that
matches your chest measurement (usually in inches), although be aware that many manufacturers add
2-4 inches to their jacket sizes (in which case a 46” chest fits a size 48-50 jacket).
The most important part of any jacket is the shoulder. This absolutely must fit correctly, as it’s
incredibly difficult and expensive to alter.
As with shirts, the shoulder seam should fall right on the shoulder joint. This means that it isn’t so big
that it juts out over your arm, nor is it so small that it tightens and constricts your upper arm. The
sleeve should be slim enough that the fabric doesn’t billow, but loose enough to allow movement and
ensure that your muscles aren’t visible. Ensure that there are no divots or wrinkles around the
shoulder, as this is a sign of a poor fit.
The body of the jacket should be relatively flush with your torso, and should be well-fitted at the
waist to create a slim silhouette. If the waist is too tight, the base of the jacket will flare out and look
very feminine; while if the waist is not slim enough it will appear boxy and unappealing.
How to test if a jacket fits:
Button the jacket’s top button; if the torso is too tight, the fabric will make an ‘x’ shape across your
chest.
Put your arms by your sides; the jacket sleeve should end 1-2 cm below your shirt cuff, allowing the
shirt to peek through. While your hands are still by your sides, bend your right thumb into your palm;
the knuckle that sticks out is where the base of your jacket should be – long enough to cover you bum,
but not so long that it looks like a dress.
Place your arms above your head; if the base of the jacket rises significantly, it’s likely that your
sleeves are too loose and you require higher arm holes.
Tips for alterations:
As stated, the shoulder of the jacket can rarely be altered so always ensure that this fits first. The
waist and sleeve can be altered with relative ease, while the body of the jacket can be made shorter
by a maximum of about 2 inches – any shorter and it interferes with the pockets.
Different ways to wear a formal jacket
Formal jackets are incredibly versatile and can be worn in any number of ways. Please be aware that
while the following styling suggestions can all be used on formal jackets, many of them make the
jacket significantly less formal, as denoted.
The most obvious way to wear a formal jacket is with a shirt and tie, as part of a suit. As such, I
haven’t bothered to include it here. Instead, the three photos below illustrate how one navy jacket can
be presented in three different ways.
The first photo is the most conservative; chinos, a dress shirt and a pocket square. This is quite a
rigid use of the jacket, which looks well-fitted and formal.
Compare this to the second photo, where the jacket has been opened and the shirt replaced with a
crew-neck t-shirt. The jacket’s sleeves have been scrunched up – a look that is difficult to pull off
unless you are very confident in your style. While the first photo makes the jacket look formal, here it
looks far more relaxed and laid back.
The third photo removes the pocket square and chinos, and adds some drapey dress pants and a Vneck t-shirt. Look at the outfit as a whole; it is relaxed, slouchy and drapes the body in a very
comfortable way, while still remaining somewhat dressed up. The drapey pants entice the wearer to
put his hands in the low-cut pockets, which causes his shoulders to roll forward. In this context, the
jacket becomes almost sack-like – completely different to the style seen in the first two photos.
Different elements in a formal jacket
The Three Lapels
Notch
The notch lapel is created when the width of both the lapel and the collar are the same. This creates a
‘notch’ effect, which looks like a small section has been removed from a long, flowing shawl. On a
blazer, sport coat or suit jacket this is the most conservative (and thus most versatile) lapel.
Peak
More eccentric than a notch, the peak lapel is wider than the jacket’s collar and causes it to flow
outwards. This helps to elongate the torso and broaden the chest. Peak lapels are the number one
choice for tuxedos, and a matter of personal taste when it comes to suits, blazers and sport jackets.
Shawl
A shawl lapel is created by constructing the lapel and collar out of the same piece of fabric. It
gracefully flows down the torso and is usually lined with silk. The shawl really only belongs on a
tuxedo or a smoking jacket, and is never considered acceptable on a business suit.
Shoulder Types
Natural
Natural shoulders have a graceful slope from the collar to the sleeve, and have so little padding that
the wearer’s natural shoulder line can be seen. These are best for casual, relaxed suits and for men
who have strong, broad shoulders.
Padded
Jackets with shoulder padding provide extra structure across the chest and look best on men who have
naturally weak arms and slim or sloping shoulder lines. There are varying degrees of padding used in
jackets – so be careful! A small amount is usually all that is required, and overkill can cause you to
look like a late-80s stand-up comic.
Canvassed vs Fused Construction
Floating canvass
A formal jacket is made from three layers of fabric. The outer layer and the lining can be seen to the
naked eye; however, between the two sits the canvas, which adds durability to the garment and
allows it to keep its shape. The canvas is described as ‘floating’, because it is allowed to move
around and adapt to the wearer’s body.
It comes in two forms: full-floating canvas, where the entire front of the jacket has a canvas inside it,
and half-floating canvas, where the canvas sits in the chest piece (from the shoulder to the bottom of
the ribcage). A floating canvas cannot be put in by machine – it can only be hand-sewn – which makes
it an expensive feature reserved for only the best-quality garments.
Fused
Cheaper suits and jackets use a process called ‘fusing’; rather than hand-stitching the canvas to the
suit, fusing simply glues it in place. Fused jackets have less durability than those with a floating
canvas, and have a comparatively rigid feel and appearance.
The biggest issue with fused lining is degradation. Over time, as the suit moves around, stretches and
absorbs moisture, the glue begins to break down and causes the jacket to pucker, blister and lose its
shape. While fusing technologies have improved over recent years, glue will never be a true
substitute for a good quality, hand-sewn, fully floating canvas.
How to tell the difference
Canvassed and fused jackets feel quite different, and can be given a simple test to determine the
quality. A floating-canvassed suit feels like there are 3 layers of fabric; the outer shell, the lining and
the inner canvas. A fused suit feels like there are 2 layers of fabric; the outer and the lining.
To test, rub a section of the chest-piece between your thumb and forefinger. If you can feel movement,
as though there’s an extra layer of fabric between the outer and inner, then it has a floating canvas. If
there is no movement and feels stiff or rigid, then it’s fused.
Pocket Types
Piped
Piped pockets are finished so that only a small slit is visible, with the rest of the pocket hidden. A
piped pocket is the most formal pocket style, and is most commonly found on tuxedos and tailcoats.
Flap
This is the standard pocket type found on most off-the-rack suits. The pocket is sewn behind the
jacket’s main outer fabric layer, with a small flap sewn on top. The flap can be removed or simply
folded inwards to make piped pockets (see above).
Patch
Patch pockets are a more casual style of pocket, often found on blazers and sport coats – and as such,
are very rarely suitable on formal attire. The pockets are created from fabric sewn on top of the main
outer layer of the jacket. On casual jackets, patch pockets are often expandable to allow for added
functionality; these are called “bellows pockets”.
Ticket
A ticket pocket is a small, extra pocket that usually sits above the right side pocket. The style came
about in 19th century Britain, allowing for easy access to railway tickets as well as small change.
More recently, the style found a renaissance as an essential part of the 1960s mod suit style.
Jacket Buttons
One-Button
One-button jackets and suits are a very modern style. The single fastening generally creates a low
stance – where “stance” refers to the position where the two lapels meet and the amount of shirt that
is subsequently revealed. The low stance found in many one-button jackets looks relaxed and drapey
– although this varies from jacket to jacket. It’s not suitable for office or formal-wear but definitely
works for a fashion-forward or casual style.
Two-Button
Since the 1960s the two-button jacket has been the go-to style for both suits and blazers (apart from a
period in the 90s that we no longer talk about). The two buttons allow for a medium stance and forms
a versatile style that can be worn both formally and casually.
Three-Button
Three-button jackets flit in and out of style every few decades. Since the 1990s, they haven’t been
popular due to their high stance and boxy silhouettes. A more classic option is the 3/2 roll style
described below.
Three-roll-to-Two
Sometimes called a 3/2 roll, the three-roll-to-two is a 3-button jacket that is pressed so the lapel’s
crease hides the top button. It can be pressed into a 3-button to form a higher stance, but most men
prefer to roll the lapel over to form a lower, more relaxed stance.
Double Breasted
Double-breasted jackets add breadth to the chest and create a sack-like effect as the jacket wraps
snugly around the body. In modern terms, the double-breasted jacket is seen as a relic of the past and
is rarely found in men’s jackets. The style is far more prevalent in coats, which are more suited to the
wrapped-up style that the double breast produces.
A Simple tip
Always button your jacket when standing and unbutton when sitting. The latter is most important
as the fabric pulls and bulges around your waist and chest, which both looks and feels
uncomfortable.
The bottom button of any jacket should never be buttoned (unless it’s a one-button). It often ruins
the silhouette and flow of the jacket, creating a boxy appearance.
An introduction to casual jackets
Where the formal jacket is charming, dapper and somewhat uptight, a casual jacket is loose, relaxed
and provides function to its wearer in almost any environment.
Most casual jacket styles have evolved out of necessity. With origins as far-flung as Inuits, jungle
explorers and World War I fighter pilots, these jackets were all created first and foremost to serve
the user. With this in mind, function comes first and style comes second; if wearing a casual jacket,
plain styles are always more formal than those with an abundance of embellishments.
Different Casual Jacket Styles
Anorak
Often referred to as a parka, the anorak is an Inuit style of jacket that was used to protect the wearer
from the heavy elements – snow, wind-chill and freezing temperatures.
The original anoraks were made from caribou or seal skin and featured a fur-lined hood for added
warmth; however, the materials used in modern anoraks range from lightweight wool to ultra-warm
insulated synthetics.
The anorak’s style is based around function: a drawstring at the waist and cuffs to trap in body heat, a
hood to protect the face and waterproof construction that allows the jacket to be worn in extreme
climates.
Blouson
Blouson is a wide-ranging style, characterised by a cropped length and elasticised waist that causes
the jacket to “blouse” outwards and hang over the waistband.
The style was originally created for pilots during World War I, whose planes had open cockpits and
offered no protection from the extreme cold at high altitudes. The first blousons were made of heavyduty leather, with high collars and fur lining – a style commonly known as a bomber jacket.
The blouson was adapted for the general public in the late 1930s by John Miller, in a style known as
a Harrington (also referred to as G9 and Baracuta). It was a lightweight and more casual version of
the flight jacket, made of cotton and featuring a stand-up collar, slanted pockets elastic cuffs and a
tartan lining.
The Harrington was a staple piece in 1960s British street style, and is one of the most common casual
jackets available today.
Safari Jacket
As one would expect from the name, the safari jacket was originally designed to be worn in African
jungles whilst on hunting expeditions. The design places an emphasis on comfort and function,
generally featuring a lightweight cotton construction, a self-belt, epaulettes and four expandable
bellows-pockets.
Ernest Hemingway helped popularise the safari jacket in the 1950s, at which point it became a part of
mainstream casual clothing. Photographers wear variations of the Safari Jacket as the expandable
pockets provide easy access to film, filters and lenses.
Denim
Denim jackets have carried a lot of stigma over the past decade, largely due to the boxy, washed-out
varieties that became popular in the 90s which were worn alongside washed-out jeans and a mullet.
The history of the denim jacket is far more innocent than many of its detractors give it credit for.
Originally a work-wear style, the denim jacket was rugged and durable, protecting the body from the
rigours of heavy-duty labour.
Denim jackets look best when paired with a chino or casual pant. Darker variations are more suited
to night-time wear, while light coloured denim jackets should be worn during the day.
Be wary of “double denim” (a denim jacket with jeans). It can be a very difficult look to pull off, if
not done for irony’s sake.
How to tell if a casual jacket fits
In contrast to their formal cousins, it’s impossible to give a clear-cut list of rules to help determine
the fit of a casual jacket due to the huge assortment of styles and cuts available. Sizing isn’t as rigid as
with formal jackets, and usually follows the standard “small-medium-large” pattern found on most
casual clothes.
In general, the best way to find the correct jacket size is to use the neck, chest and shoulder as a guide.
As with formal jackets, the seam between your sleeve and shoulder should fall in line with your
natural shoulder joint.
Once this part of the jacket fits, you’ll be able to see how the jacket was intended to drape your body.
Some casual jackets will have billowing sleeves and loose-fitting waistlines; others will have high
arm holes, slim sleeves and a closely-cut waist. This is determined by the design of the jacket, and
whether it is suitable for your wardrobe is entirely up to personal preference.
How to test if casual jackets fit
Fasten the jacket up all the way to your neck; it should be snug yet not restricting. While the jacket is
still fastened, the shoulders should fit closely in line with your natural shoulder.
With your arms by your sides, your sleeves should extend 1-2 inches past your wrist – contrast this to
formal jackets, where the sleeve is cut shorter to allow your shirt cuff to peek through.
The waist of the jacket should fall at least a few inches below your hips, unless it’s an intentionally
cropped style. If raising your arms above your head causes the jacket to rise above the waistband of
your pants, it’s likely too short for you.
Tips for alterations
Causal jackets are generally left unaltered, as their informal style doesn’t require them to be as
perfectly-fitted as a formal jacket. With that said, all of the alteration tips from formal jackets apply
here as well – the shoulder is off-limits, while shortening and slimming down are relatively easy
tasks.
Different ways to wear a casual jacket
A casual jacket can be worn in all the same ways as a formal jacket; atop a shirt and tie, with t-shirts,
with casual shirts and beneath overcoats. The key difference between the two styles is that a casual
jacket has a much more relaxed and comfortable fit and style. The photos below illustrate this point.
In photo one, beware that the rigidity of the shirt and tie often clashes with a casual jacket’s loose fit.
In such a case, most men prefer to make the outfit less formal by rolling the sleeves.
The shirt used in photo two is a 70s-era green and auburn tartan, which matches well with the jacket’s
olive colour (B&W Kindle readers: you’ll have to take my word for it!). Rather than wearing the
shirt in a formal way, the collar has been opened, the shirt has been untucked and the jacket’s sleeves
have been rolled. This outfit feels much more comfortable and congruent than the one preceding it.
Finally, the third photo shows the jacket in one of its most casual forms: sleeves rolled, collar
popped and atop a simple white t-shirt. Compared to the first photo, this outfit looks infinitely more
relaxed and comfortable.
CHAPTER 2:
Coats
Where formal jackets stress elegance and casual jackets stress functionality, coats place a priority on
warmth.
A coat is generally seen as ‘outerwear’; that is, they form outer layer of the outfit, and are never worn
with anything on top of them.
Coats can be worn in two ways – casually and formally. To wear them casually means to buy a coat
that fits your exact shoulder size, to be worn with shirts, t-shirts, sweaters and anything in-between.
To wear them formally requires that you buy a size up from your regular shoulder size, and wear them
as an overcoat atop a formal jacket
Each of the following coats allow for a versatile look. A coat looks just as good with jeans and a tshirt as it does atop a beautifully tailored suit – so far be it from me (or anyone else) to dictate how
you wear it.
Coats and jackets are a big money-maker for retail stores and, next to a suit, are by far and away the
most expensive items that a man can buy. But considering the amazing amount of versatility that one
single coat holds, their inherent value becomes quite apparent.
Beware of cheap workmanship and sub-par construction; the whole purpose of a coat is to provide
warmth and last for many years. Often the most economical course of action is to spend more on a
higher-end garment with high construction quality, rather than a cheap coat that falls apart when put
through the rigours of everyday use.
Different Coat Styles
Peacoat
The humble peacoat is an almost-ubiquitous item of clothing, in that most labels have produced a
variation and most men have owned at least one in their lifetime. The style is characterised by its
thick, rough wool construction, double breast, large lapels and relatively short length.
The peacoat was originally a Dutch style coat – “pijjekker”, meaning a coarse wool jacket – which
was shortened by British sailors in the 1700s to, simply, “P-Coat”. It quickly became the go-to
overcoat for sailors; the padded wool kept the body warm while the cropped length allowing freeranging movement.
As one would expect from its sea-faring roots, the traditional colour for peacoats is navy, while men
of higher rank had coats with brass buttons.
Trench Coat
The original trench coats were created by Burberrys of London (now simply known as “Burberry”) as
a raincoat for British troops during World War I. As such, they are an incredibly functional item; a
wide collar that can be upturned to protect the face from the elements; made from cotton twill that is
relatively waterproof yet still allows the body to breathe; and a storm flap covering the shoulders,
which protects the wearer from heavy rain.
Modern interpretations of the trench coat tend to be far more minimal than their forefathers – often
comprising of nothing more than a belted waist, single breast and a water-resistant cloth.
The level of military-inspired detail changes the impact of the trench coat dramatically. Most men
feel that a modern, minimal trench is most versatile and can be part of a more formal outfit while
overly militaristic designs make the coat too complicated.
Duffle Coat
From humble roots as a fisherman’s jacket in the city of Duffel, Belgium, the aptly-named duffel coat
is characterised by its heavy wool fabric, loose-fitting construction and rope-loop closures in lieu of
buttons.
Many duffel coats come with a hood, making them infinitely more practical for cold and rainy
climates. The traditional duffel is cut to drape over the body, as it was often worn atop other coats for
extra warmth. Modern interpretations will tend to be more close-fitting, as they are expected to be
worn casually atop t-shirts, shirts and jumpers.
Mackintosh
The mackintosh is the original high-tech coat, invented in Scotland by Charles Macintosh in 1822
(note that “mackintosh” is now the accepted spelling). It utilised a rubberised cloth and waterproof
seams that made it impervious to rain.
Despite being incredibly useful in cold, rainy climates, the original rubber cloth was found to melt in
warm weather; so in 1843 the construction was fine-tuned and the rubber cloth became vulcanised for
extra durability and weather-proofing.
The general style is quite plain; single breasted with two slit pockets, no lapels and a stiff upturned
collar.
Rain Cape
Similar in style to the Spanish poncho, the rain cape is meant to gracefully drape the body with very
limited styling or embellishment.
The cape was originally worn atop suits to protect them from rain, an early ancestor of the riding
cloak. But despite its classic roots the rain cape (and its derivatives) has been superseded by more
contemporary styles.
In modern terms, then, the rain cape and poncho are generally seen as unsuitable for business or
conservative dress. However, the two styles are often worn either casually (poncho) or as part of a
fashion-forward, drapey style (rain cape).
How to tell if a coat fits
All of the same general-fitting rules apply to coats as they do with jackets: the shoulder should be
perfectly aligned, the waist should be fitted without constricting movement and the sleeves should fall
right around the seam between your wrist and forearm. They’re generally longer than jackets, so for
most men anything that ends above the knee is fine.
As discussed above, a coat has two general styles of wear: formal coats that sit atop a suit, and
casual coats that are worn atop shirts, jumpers and t-shirts. The way that a coat should fit depends
entirely on how you intend on wearing it – and, unfortunately, you’re stuck with the style you choose.
If you want to wear it instead of a jacket: that is, with a simple shirt and tie, sweater, t-shirt,
cardigan or similar underneath – then you can follow all the same fitting rules that apply to jackets.
If you want to wear it formally: that is, as an overcoat to be worn on top of jackets, particularly
good in cold weather – then you must wear a jacket when buying the coat, and fit it according to the
shoulder of your jacket rather than your natural shoulder. In this case, your coat size will be 1-2 sizes
bigger than your jacket size.
Different ways to wear coats
In this example, I’ve used a traditional navy peacoat, with the collar popped up to add an extra layer
of warmth. This can be done with any coat, and is often a nice style tweak that makes an outfit look
more carefully put together.
When wearing a coat in a casual style, don’t be afraid to push up the sleeves – this creates a much
more relaxed style that goes well with jeans and a t-shirt.
As shown in the 3rd photo, coats can be worn over both casual and formal jackets. Remember that in
most cases the extra layers in the jacket beneath will require you to buy a larger coat. When using a
casual jacket that has no padding, however, the coat should fit on top without problems.
CHAPTER 3:
Pants
The male leg is rarely a beautiful thing; it bulges, it sweats and it has an ungodly amount of hair. So
aside from preventing indecent exposure, the humble pant serves to protect, slim and elongate the legs
of the man who occupies it.
Pants are perhaps the most basic item in a man’s wardrobe; every man wears them nearly every day,
yet most never take the time to consider how dramatically they can change an outfit.
In formal terms, a good pair of pants is one that successfully elongates the legs, making you appear
taller; they bring the legs into better proportion with the torso and make a statement of bold power
and self-awareness to the world.
Casual styles favour functionality, being comfortable to wear and relaxed in nature. This mirrors the
mindset of the man inside them; laid-back and relaxed.
More modern, avant-garde designs aim to drape the body in an interesting way. They reappropriate
formal styles and re-cut them into a more dramatic style, such as the drop-crotch.
Regardless of the style you choose, take careful note: one of the most common mistakes that hampers
men from dressing well is wearing the “wrong” pants, where “wrong” means ill-fitting, ill-designed
and ill-proportioned.
Different Pant Cuts
The most important design difference from one pair of pants to another is the way that the fabric
drapes the legs. In men’s pants, this ‘drape’ is put into three different categories: tapered, straight and
boot-cut.
Tapered pants usually have a relaxed thigh and become slimmer toward the calf and ankle.
Straight-legged pants are usually the same width at the knee and ankle, creating a straight, tube-like
appearance.
Boot-cut pants are wider at the ankle than they are at the knee, similar in concept to flares.
Boot-cut pants are rarely flattering on any man. They distort the smooth and elegant flow of the legs
and instead make the ankles look fat and bloated. Tapered and straight-legged pants are always
preferred.
Different Pant Styles
Dress Pants
“Dress pants” refer to any formal pant that is intended for formal or semi-formal wear, including
those that come as part of a suit. They are most often made of wool, and are most often worn with a
dress shirt and dress shoes.
Many men are intimidated by dress pants, assuming that they can only be worn in conservative ways.
So take note: just because they are intended for formal wear, this does not mean that they cannot be
worn in a casual style. Many men wear dress pants with singlets and t-shirts, or seek out dramatic,
tapered adaptations that can be worn as part of an avant-garde style.
Jeans
Made from denim, jeans are the posterboy of the casual style. They owe most of their fame to three
men: Levi Strauss, Marlon Brando and James Dean. Strauss was the pioneer of indigo denim in the
19th century, whose jeans became a staple of blue collar workwear, although they were never worn
casually until the 1950s. Marlon Brando wore a pair in “The Wild Ones”, bringing jeans into the
limelight as a casual pant. Then, in 1955, James Dean’s indigo jeans in “Rebel Without a Cause”
epitomised the casual style that would permeate through pop culture for decades to come.
Despite their humble roots as a stiff and sturdy working-man’s pant, modern jeans can be worn both
casually and dressed-up, and are by far the most versatile pants a man can own.
Light-coloured jeans are the most casual; they are best suited for wearing during the day. A darkcoloured jean (“dark” meaning either black or a very deep indigo) is dressy and can be worn either
during the day or in the evening.
Chinos
The original chinos came from China and were copied from the khaki pants worn by British soldiers
in the late 19th century. The Chinese reworked these pants using stiff cotton that would allow the legs
to breathe while protecting them from the sun.
Generally made from a weave of 100% cotton twill, chinos are sometimes referred to as “khakis” –
although this is actually a sand-like colour and technically refers to just one particular type of chino.
While pleated, billowy chinos are an unfortunate by-product of the mid-90s-business-casual craze,
most modern styles of chino are flat-faced, slim and come in a huge range of colours. As with jeans,
it’s best to only ever wear light coloured chinos during the day, whereas dark coloured chinos can be
worn any time.
Cargo Pants
Cargo pants are an ultra-functional military style, similar in design to a safari jacket. The pants
feature large, expandable bellows pockets which, as the name infers, allow you to carry much more
than regular pockets will.
They are generally designed for function over fashion; loose-fitting, rugged construction and hardwearing fabric, all of which match the heavy duty lifestyle of their intended owner. Be wary of
overly-designed and complicated cargo pants; as discussed in the Style Mistakes chapter, they are
rarely flattering.
Shorts
Shorts follow all of the same fitting rules as the rest of the pant family; they should be snug at the
waist and the leg should never be billowy and overly-relaxed (unless they’re basketball shorts).
In most cases, the ideal length for shorts is to finish just above the knee. Shorter cuts are available
and suit both fashion-forward and sporty styles, whereas longer cuts are really only suitable for very
casual street wear, a look that doesn’t look good on older men (see Style Mistake #9).
Shorts are best when they are minimal, so avoid cargo shorts unless your jungle-faring-adventurer
style calls for it. As with all other pants, light colours and patterns will make your outfit significantly
more casual, while dark colours make an outfit more formal.
Drop-crotch
Offensive to some and beautiful to others, drop-crotch pants are characterised by a billowy and lowhanging crotch that transitions to a dramatic and tight-fitting taper from the knee to the ankle.
They are generally worn as part of a slouchy, fashion-forward style, accompanied by loose-fitting
jackets and t-shirts. More often than not, those wearing drop-crotch pants tend to keep their hands in
their pant pockets; this causes their back to hunch and shoulders to drop, which mirrors the relaxed
form of their lower half.
Track Pants
Better known in the US as “sweat pants”, track pants are designed primarily for athletics. They’re
generally loose-fitting and incredibly comfortable, facilitating a high range of movement while
allowing air to flow around the legs. Variations with elasticised ankles are far better at trapping heat
and are better for cold environments.
Since the 1980s, track pants have transitioned from sportswear to casual wear, and are often worn as
makeshift pyjamas. Wearing them outside the house – unless on the way to the gym – is strongly
discouraged; when taken out of a sporting context they make an incredibly lazy fashion statement.
How to tell if pants fit
The most important factor when buying a pair of pants is the waist. This is generally what the size of
the pants refers to, but as mentioned in the measurement section, casual sizes are generally a few
inches below the measured size (so a size 30 waist usually fits someone with a 31.5 – 33” measured
waist).
The way a pair of pants fits varies greatly, and depends heavily on the style of the pant. Some have a
relaxed thigh and a tapered calf; others are super skinny all through the leg; others still are cut to
drape down dramatically along your legs. The style you choose (and the subsequent way that it fits) is
all down to personal taste.
Most men have a huge tendency to buy pants that are larger than their correct waist size. So here’s a
good rule of thumb: find the smallest waist size that you can comfortably put on your body. Then try
one size smaller to be sure. You want the waist to be as snug as possible, because pants often stretch
over time, particularly if they’re made from cotton (which most are).
The second thing to test is the length of your pants. For dress pants, you want the fabric to flow neatly
down your leg and have as little bunching as possible towards the ankles. When the flow of the pants
is interrupted, it causes a kink in the fabric – called a “break”. Ideally, dress pants should only have
one break, which occurs about halfway between the knee and the ankle.
For casual pants, particularly jeans, the excess fabric towards your ankle causes multiple breaks,
which is referred to as “stacking”. You can have as much stacking as your tastes allow, but be aware
that this is a very informal look and tends to make the legs look shorter than a straight, clean line.
How to test if pants fit:
Make sure you put everything in your pockets that you aim to carry with you (wallet, keys, phone –
your choice). This will alter the shape of the pants and often causes them to hang lower off your body.
If your pants don’t stay up without a belt: your pants don’t fit.
If you’re buying jeans, ensure they are as tight as possible. Denim naturally stretches over time, and
will relax significantly after the first week of wear. With that in mind, you should only be able to fit
one finger between your skin and the waistband.
Tips for alterations:
All aspects of pants are relatively easy to alter, within reason. The leg can be shaped so it tapers
down from your calf to your ankle; the waist can be taken in to make the fit snugger; the thighs can be
altered to reduce billowing fabric. However, there are limits to what can be achieved, particularly
when dealing with the waist and seat of the pants. If changing the size too dramatically, the pockets,
fly and seams of the pants will become misaligned – so don’t bother trying to turn a size 34 into a size
30!
Different ways to wear pants
Generally, there is little you can do to a pair of pants that doesn’t involve altering it in some way.
Most men agree, and opt to just put them on and forget about them.
Besides wearing a belt – which is so humdrum that I don’t think it requires any sort of special
treatment here - the best way to wear a pair of pants differently is to change the cuffs.
In the pictures below, I’ve shown 3 ways of cuffing your pants. The first lets the pants hang down and
‘stack’, which looks very relaxed and casual. In the second the ends have been cuffed 3 times, which
absorbs some of the extra fabric length and makes the legs look much neater. In the third, the pants
have been cuffed using a tapered roll, which involves folding the fabric over itself so it’s tight around
the ankle, then folding it up. This causes the top of the pants to look billowy, which terminates in a
dramatic taper and tight cuff.
CHAPTER 4:
Jumpers
A jumper (also commonly known as a sweater and a pullover) is a broad-ranging term to mean any
knit garment that covers the torso and arms.
There are relatively few styles of jumper available, and can be broadly defined by their type of neck.
The major point of difference between one jumper and another is the fabric that is used and the style
in which it is constructed; from thick, heavy cable-knit jumpers to light merino jumpers, each has a
purpose and a style for which they will be best suited.
Different knit types
Jersey
The most basic form of a jumper is the jersey. It features a fine, closely-knitted fabric that is light to
the touch, and can be found anywhere from formal merino knits to functional sweatshirts.
Jacquard
Aside from the plain-faced jersey, there are two main categories of knits used in sweaters. The first is
jacquard, which is smooth to the touch and uses colours to create bold geometric patterns.
Examples of the jacquard style:
Argyle
Cowichan
Fair Isle
Icelandic
Aran
The second stitch style is called Aran, originating in the Aran Isles of the coast of Ireland. Aran
jumpers feature heavily textured designs that are physically knitted into the fabric itself.
Originally created by fishermen’s wives to provide warmth to their husbands, each knit pattern has a
special significance. For instance, basket-waves symbolise a good fishing catch, honeycomb patterns
represent the hard-working bee, and cable-knits allude to the strong, sturdy and safe cables that holds
a ship together.
Examples of the Aran style:
Basket
Diamond
Trellis
Waffle
Cable
Different jumper styles
Each of the following styles can feature all and any of the knit patterns mentioned in the previous
section, and come in a huge range of weights, fabrics and colours.
Crew Neck
The crew neck is the most basic and common form of men’s jumper. It features a round shaped
opening that is worn close to the neck and is relatively tight-fitting. When people use the word
“sweatshirt”, they are usually referring to a crew neck jumper.
This neck style works well for men who have square jaws and/or thin faces and want to balance their
naturally strong facial lines with a curved neckline.
V-Neck
As one would expect, the v-neck jumper forms a v-shape along the wearer’s neckline. It’s often worn
in a semi-formal style with a shirt and tie beneath, but works just as well on its own.
This neck style works well for men who have round jaws and/or large faces and want to balance their
weaker facial lines with a strong, straight neckline.
Boat neck
A boat neck is relaxed in style and spans across the collarbones. When viewed front-on, the neckline
mimics the shape of a boat’s hull – hence the name. The boat neck originated as part of the 19th
century French sailing uniform and was popularised as a casual jumper by Pablo Picasso in the
1930s.
Cardigan
In practical terms, a cardigan is somewhat of a hybrid between a jumper and a casual jacket; it uses
the same fabric and knitting style as a jumper, while featuring the open, button-fastening style and
patch pockets of a jacket.
Cardigans are rarely (if ever) worn on their own. When fastened, a cardigan forms a deep v-shaped
line down the torso. This can either be paired with a v-neck t-shirt – which enhances the cardigan’s
straight lines – or with a crew neck- which softens and compliments the cardigan’s neckline.
As with jackets, when wearing a cardigan keep the bottom button unfastened to make the silhouette
less boxy.
Turtleneck
Also known as “polo neck” (UK) and “skivvy” (Australia), a turtle neck features four to five inches
of extra fabric that rises above the collar and is generally folded over for a thicker neckline.
The style dates back to the 15th century in the British Isles, and like many of the older jumper styles
were worn by fishermen as a way of keeping their necks warm.
The turtleneck was rarely worn by anyone outside of the navy until the mid-1920s, when Noel
Coward popularised the style, worn under a formal jacket as a substitute for a shirt and tie.
Turtlenecks were popular in academic circles in the 1960s and were an everyday favourite of Steve
Jobs.
Cricket
Worn as a uniform in the sport from which it’s named, a cricket jumper is v-necked and usually made
from a thick Aran-style knit with a ribbed waistline and cuffs. Similar styles abound in other sports,
particularly tennis and squash.
The defining feature of a cricket jumper is its patterned collar, waist and cuffs, which usually have
unique alternating colours to denote which team the wearer belongs to.
Worn casually, it creates a sporty style that conjures images of country club and old-English
sensibilities. It is often worn with a collared shirt beneath.
Hoodie
A hoodie is a crew neck jumper with an attached hood. In its original form, it features a large patch
pocket across the body, while zip-up hoodies have side pockets.
The hood is a functional item dating back to Medieval Europe, used to keep the head and face warm.
The hoodie itself was relatively unknown until the 1970s, when it became popular among criminals
who used the hood for increased anonymity – as it is still used today. It didn’t become truly popular
until 1976, when Sylvester Stallone wore one in his portrayal of Rocky.
In many cultures the hoodie is heavily associated with teenagers, as they’re cheap, accessible and
functional. However: if you’re an older gent, do not assume that wearing a hoodie will make you
appear younger - see Style Mistake #9 for details.
How to tell if a jumper fits
The style of jumper dictates the ideal fit; thin, closely-knit jumpers should have a similarly closelyfitted appearance, while thicker, bulky jumpers should be more loosely-fitted.
Note that there is a big distinction between ‘loosely-fitted’ and ‘poorly-fitted’. For the wide majority
of styles, a jumper should never hang loosely off the arms, nor should swathes of fabric hang around
the torso. ‘Loosely-fitted’ simply means that, for large knit jumpers (particularly the Aran style), the
fit should be relaxed rather than skin tight.
As with jackets and coats, the shoulder of jumper should fall in line with your natural shoulder joint,
although loose-fitting jumpers can safely sit a little lower.
A jumper’s sleeves should come down to around the seam of your wrist, while the bottom of the
jumper should sit a few inches lower than your waistband.
Too-long jumpers will make you look small in comparison, as though you’re wearing someone else’s
clothes – particularly so with the Aran style, which is big and bulky to begin with. Too-short jumpers
will make you look gigantic in comparison, as though your clothes have shrunk in the wash –
particularly with thin and closely-knitted merino or jersey style jumpers.
Tips for buying jumpers
A jumper’s shape will change depending on what’s worn underneath it. If you intend on wearing
shirts with the jumper, be sure you wear the shirt when shopping.
Tips for alterations
Knitwear can be altered, although it is expensive and takes a very competent tailor to do so. Because
of this, it’s always best practice to buy jumpers that fit straight off the rack.
Different ways to wear a jumper
Jumpers can be worn in any number of ways. For instance, in the first picture below, the jumper
works perfectly when paired with a simple pair of dark jeans – the drape in the jumper contrasts and
compliments the well-fitting jeans.
In the second picture, the style is a bit more fashion forward, paired with a tapered pair of rough-spun
wool dress pants. In contrast to the picture above, bulkiness of the jumper blends in nicely with the
loose-fitting pants.
The third picture shoes the jumper beneath a peacoat. The peacoat is traditionally double breasted
and cropped at the waist– which adds breadth to the chest. This style matches the heavy-weight Aran
knit jumper, while the jacket’s smooth wool contrasts the jumper’s thick and rough knit.
CHAPTER 5:
Shoes
Shoes are one of the most important – yet most often overlooked – items in a man’s wardrobe. A
simple change of shoes can completely transform the way an outfit looks, which makes it essential to
know about each of the styles available and what they say about the wearer.
The foot is the ugliest part of a man’s body; it sweats, it smells and it often has the misshapen bumps
and curves that women’s feet somehow lack. Thankfully, shoes allow us to give our feet a cleaner,
more elegant shape.
There are two broad categories of shoes: dress shoes and casual shoes. Each has a completely
different style and purpose, so the two will be investigated in separate parts.
Shoes, Part 1: Dress
Many men cringe at the words “dress shoes” as they think it implies that they must be worn formally.
This is, in fact, a misnomer; dress shoes do not imply anything about the clothing that sits above them
and can be worn with almost any outfit – they do, however, make outfits appear dressier than a casual
shoe would.
From a business suit to jeans and a shirt, dress shoes have a place in almost any outfit. Commonly,
men who develop an interest in fashion will wear dress shoes almost exclusively, reserving their
casual shoes only to be worn when exercising. They are incredibly versatile and, when chosen
correctly, always serve to improve an outfit.
Good vs. bad dress shoes
A good dress shoe reshapes the foot from gangly to elegant, while a bad dress shoe makes it boxy and
hard-lined. The following section details the various criteria used to determine whether a shoe is
‘good’ or ‘bad’.
Toe Shape
The ideal toe shape for a shoe was discussed in Style Mistake #4, so we shan’t dwell on it here.
However, to recap: shoes should never have long or square toes. This adds hard, straight lines to the
foot and creates a boxy, unflattering shape. Instead, seek out shoes that have round toes.
Slim vs. wide toes
Whether to buy a pair of shoes with a slim round toe (imagine the shape of an almond) or a pair with
wider toe is more a matter of preference than of a hard and fast rule.
A pair of shoes should always have a similar width to the pants they are worn with. In turn, the width
of a man’s pants is determined by the width of his waist and his leg. So if you have wide calves,
you’ll need relaxed-fitting pants – which require wide shoes. If you have slim legs, you’ll need slim
pants – which require slim shoes.
Materials
Not all shoes are created equally. The materials and methods used in the construction of the shoe
dramatically alter their appearance, their durability and the way they age over time.
A good quality pair of shoes should be made from leather. Note: There are, of course, vegetarianfriendly alternatives, although I’m yet to be shown one which has anything other than an awful
design and poor build quality.
When leather is sourced from an animal, there are several different grades that the hide produces. The
highest grade of leather is called “full-grain leather”; it is naturally strong and durable, and requires
minimal processing before it can be used in the manufacturing process.
On the other hand, the lower, cheaper grades have to be chemically processed in order to make them
useable. This is called “grain correction”, and although the process makes weaker and less durable
leather than full-grain, it allows manufacturers to cut costs.
It’s far easier to spot grain corrected leather than full-grain leather; the former often looks blemishfree – not what you would expect from leather which is, after all, animal skin. When inspected upclose, grain corrected leather will not show any pores, and will often have an unnatural, almost
plastic appearance. Full-grain leather, on the other hand, has blemishes, pores and feels like it
actually came from an animal.
As one would expect, the very best shoes (and other leather goods) are made from full-grain leather,
which is durable, breathable and ages very well. Lower quality shoes use grain corrected leather,
which is feel comparatively cheaper and doesn't age as particularly well. The lowest quality shoes
use synthetics, which tends to look cheap and tacky and will invariably fall apart after a few months
of use. Avoid synthetic dress shoes at all costs.
Construction
By the same token, good quality shoes use construction methods that make them last much longer than
cheaper shoes. The biggest factor here is the way that the leather of the shoe is attached to the sole.
In a good quality shoe, the sole is stitched to the leather upper, which creates a strong and pliable
bond. Over time as the leather relaxes and breaks in, the stitches are able to relax and stretch too,
without compromising the shoe’s durability. This is a process known as “welting”, characterised by
stiches that connect the upper to the sole.
Welting is a difficult and thus expensive process. To cut costs, low-quality shoes have a sole that is
simply glued on. Over time, as the leather wears in, the connection between upper and sole shifts and
causes the glue to degrade. As one would expect, this causes the shoe to fall apart.
When seeking out welted shoes, you should be wary; some manufacturers will create ‘fake welts’ on
the top of the shoe to give it the appearance of quality. The price, brand and country of manufacture
will often be enough to tell the difference.
It is always worth spending extra on a shoe that is well-constructed. A higher quality pair of shoes
may cost 2-3x more than a 'cheap' pair of shoes, but will last 5-10 times longer.
Formality of Dress Shoes
As discussed in the introduction to this section, formality in men's clothes is determined by moving
closer/further away from black and white tie. The most formal dress shoe is the 'court shoe', which is
a plain, laceless shoe made from patent leather. They have a very minimal profile and little to no
embellishment.
Knowing this, it's easy to determine how formal a dress shoe is by simply analysing its features. The
closer it is to a black, featureless shoe, the more formal it is.
Different dress shoe styles
Oxford
Closed-lace shoes (known as Oxfords (UK) and Balmorals (US)) are characterised by shoelace
eyelet pieces that are sewn into the rest of the shoe. This gives the laces a tight, well-constructed
look, and is the most formal lace style.
Monk
Monks are characterised by their distinctive strap-and-buckle fastening, used instead of laces. The
style is less formal than an oxford, yet more formal than a derby (below).
While monks are most commonly made from patent leather, casual interpretations are often found in
suede of various colours.
Derby
Open-laced shoes (known as Derbys (UK) and Bluchers (US)) have lace eyelets which sit on top of
the rest of the shoe, stitched from a separate piece of leather. This makes the shoe appear more free
and relaxed in both construction and sensibility. Open laces are a far less subtle style than closed
laces, which makes them a considerably less formal dress shoe.
Brogues
Brogues refer to the small, round perforations found in many dress shoes. Brogueing is found around
the toe and seams of a shoe, commonly arranged in a 'wingtip' pattern (which mimics the shape of a
bird's wings - see above). Regardless of whether an Oxford or a Derby, shoes of this style are often
simply referred to as "brogues" or "wingtips".
Spectator Shoes
A spectator (US) or Co-respondent (UK) shoe is a closed-laced, brogued dress shoe characterised by
its two-tone colour scheme. Originally designed in the mid-19th century as a shoe to be worn while
playing cricket, the style reached a height of popularity in the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s as worn by
jazz musicians, dancers and zoot suiters.
In modern terms it can be worn with a suit, blazer or any outfit or occasion that calls for a loud yet
formal style. Spectator shoes should never be worn as part of a business suit.
Loafers
A loafer is a low-cut, slip-on, laceless shoe. Its design is quite similar to that of the Monk Strap,
although with elastic sides in lieu of a buckle. This allows the wearer to easily slip in and out of the
shoe while firmly supporting the foot.
Traditional dress loafers feature straps, toe caps and even tassels, while a Venetian loafer has little to
no embellishment and is far more subtly styled.
Shoes, Part 2: Casual
Casual shoes are generally derived from shoes worn in athletics; rather than emphasising sleek and
subtle formality, they emphasise comfort, durability and functionality. They come in two basic forms:
high-tops, which rise above the ankle and are akin to boots, and low-tops, which are low-profiled
and stop below the ankle.
Good vs bad casual shoes
Designers employ a great deal of creativity when constructing casual shoes – far more than when
designing dress shoes. As such, it’s difficult to give concrete recommendations about what to look for
and what to avoid, as there are good and bad variations of every shoe style.
Whether a casual shoe is ‘good’ or ‘bad’ depends on the style of the wearer; if you have a younger,
streetwear-influenced style, then loud, bright and over-the-top designs might be right up your alley; if
you have a dapper casual style then your shoes might tend more towards a sleek, minimalistic design;
whereas if you have a strictly formal or business style then you might avoid casual shoes altogether.
The only strict rule I can give, then, is to avoid casual shoes that do not fit in with the rest of your
outfits. Consider the shoes you buy carefully – they completely change the way an outfit looks. Think
about the colour, detail, size, style and construction of the shoe; will you be wearing the shoes with a
sleek, slim and minimalistic outfit? Then don’t buy a loud, bright and chunky casual shoe!
As with formal shoes, variations of black, brown and white are by far the most versatile colours,
while greys, blues, greens and reds are far harder to work into most outfits.
Different dress shoe styles
Runners
“Runners”, also known as “joggers” (UK) and “trainers” (US) is a broad term that refers to any shoe
designed to be worn while playing sports. This includes shoes designed for athletics, basketball and
tennis.
Until the 1950s, runners were rarely worn outside of the sports for which they were intended; yet as
school dress codes relaxed and personal exercise became far more popular, they became a staple
item for most wardrobes. Naturally, their comfort, durability and low-cost compared to dress shoes
made them a popular option for people dressing in a relaxed, casual style.
Modern-day runners come in two distinct categories; those that are designed for sport, and those that
are designed to be worn casually (known as ‘sneakers’ – see below). The two styles rarely intersect.
Shoes designed as sportswear are technical in both feature and design, with chunky gelled-soles,
breathable perforated fabrics and cushioned inners. They seek to protect and comfort the foot and
rarely ever feature a good design.
As such, they are not appropriate for casual use; opt for a sneaker instead.
Sneakers
Sneakers are a relative of the runner, which value design over function. They are often sleek and
minimalistic and are far more appropriate for casual use than shoes designed for athletics.
The most common sneaker style is the plimsoll, which has a canvas upper and a rubber sole. Common
examples include Converse Chuck Taylors (aka “Chucks”), Vans Classics and Dunlop Volleys.
Boat Shoes
Also known as “deck shoes” or “top-siders”, modern boat shoes owe their design to Paul Sperry,
who created the jagged siping pattern used on soles to prevent the shoe from slipping on a boat’s wet
surfaces.
Boat shoes are characterised laces that go around the sides and back of the shoe, a very low profile
and a raised moccasin-style seam that traverses the toe.
The style is rarely worn with socks, with most men preferring to wear their boat shoes with shorts or
rolled pants.
Chapter 6: Boots
Most modern boot styles have origins in either workwear or sportswear. As such, you’ll find that the
best boots are extremely well-constructed and durable, often lasting for decades.
They generally come in two lengths; ankle and knee. Ankle-length boots are the most versatile, as they
can be worn as part of both casual and formal outfits. Knee-length boots are generally industrial in
style and really only have a place in ultra-functional or military-style outfits.
Good vs bad boots
All of the same shopping rules apply to boots as with formal shoes; the toe shape, the materials and
the construction all help to determine the quality of the boot. So for conciseness’s sake, read the rules
for buying dress shoes.
Different boot styles
Chukka
Chukka boots (also known as “turf boots” and “bucks”) were originally designed for polo players and
are characterised by their ankle-high tops, 3-hole open-lace designs and slim leather soles.
Chukkas didn’t have any place in popular style until the 1950s, riding on the massive popularity of the
desert boot. In general, chukka boots are more tightly constructed than a desert boot and their soles
tend to be far more durable.
Desert Boot
The original desert boots were introduced by Clarks during World War II, designed for British troops
in the Western Desert Campaign of Northern Africa. Soon after the war, the style was adopted by the
general public and has since been reproduced by many designers in many different forms.
As one would expect, desert boots are well suited for warm climates. It has a crepe sole that is
incredibly comfortable and gives good traction on sand, yet wears down quickly on concrete. While
similar in style to the chukka, desert boots are distinguished by their two-hole lace eyelets, thick
rubber crepe soles and a looser, more relaxed fit around the foot.
Chelsea
Chelsea boots owe their heritage to Victorian-era horsemen, who required a tight-fitting boot that
could be easily slipped on and off without the need for laces.
Chelsea boots are characterised by their ankle-high length, laceless design and, most distinctively,
elastic sides. The design evolved from the Jodhpur, which is almost identical in style yet has a belt
and buckle in place of the elastic.
Chelsea boots became a mainstay of the mod movement in the 1960s and were made massively
popular by The Beatles, who wore Chelsea-style boots that featured a high Cuban heel and a slimmer,
chiselled toe – often simply called a “Beatle Boot”.
American Work Boot
In recent years, American work boots have become a popular part of men’s casual style due to their
simple design (comparable to that of an open-laced Derby), high quality materials and incredibly
strong construction. With proper care, a good quality pair of work boots can last for decades, making
them well worth the price that they command.
The style and design varies greatly from boot to boot, so there are no specific characteristics that
define an American work boot. However, they all tend to have a quality so high that you can feel it in
your hands. They feel heavy, rugged and have tightly-constructed seams.
Popular designs include the Wolverine 1000 Mile, the Red Wing Iron Ranger and the Chippewa GQ.
Combat Boot
Combat boots are a military-style boot that focuses on grip, ankle stability and foot protection. They
are characterised by thick grip soles, hard-wearing leather and incredibly rugged construction.
In modern style terms, ultra-functional military style boots are rarely worn by most men. They find
their place in styles that have a heavily influence form industrial or military designs.
CHAPTER 7:
Shirts
Shirts are the final piece of the menswear puzzle, and are the closest item worn to your upper body.
The term ‘shirt’ is a catch-all that comprises of any cloth garment worn as the bottom layer on the
upper body. From dress shirts worn with suits to t-shirts worn with jeans, shirts traverse all forms of
menswear and have a place in almost any outfit imaginable.
When considering the formality of a shirt, compare it to the full-dress shirt used in black and white tie
outfits. These shirts are made from crisp white cotton, have stiff barrel cuffs and feature a high collar
with small wings. Embellishments such as pockets, colours, patterns, different cuff styles, long
collars and epaulettes all serve to make a shirt less formal.
Dress shirts
‘Dress shirt’ is a catch-all term to describe any garment shirt with a collar, cuffs and full-length
button fastenings. They traverse a huge range of formality levels: from the plain and minimally
embellished full-dress shirt, designed to be worn in a tuxedo, to the patterned, pocketed casual shirt,
designed to be worn with jeans and sneakers.
Most people simply refer to a shirt by the pattern it holds or the fabric that is used to produce it;
while there are indeed specific names for different styles of dress shirt, it is far more useful to know
the different components that comprise them.
How to tell if a dress shirt fits
A dress shirt’s size is almost always dictated by the size of the neck. Thus, when shopping for a shirt
simply take the neck measurement you took in Part 1 of this book (in inches or cm, depending on
where you are from) and find a shirt with a corresponding neck size.
When trying on a dress shirt, button it up all the way to the top. The collar should be snug but not
constricting – you don’t want to choke yourself. The shoulder seam should be as close as possible to
your shoulder joint, and the sleeves should reach the crease on your hand where your palm meets your
forearm.
Sleeves should be loose enough to allow movement and to not show your muscles beneath, but tight
enough that there is no billowing fabric. Around your torso, the shirt should be snug with little to no
billowing fabric but not so tight that it restricts movement.
How to test if a shirt fits: You should be able to fit no more than 2 fingers between your collar and
your neck. Turn your body from side to side to test whether your sleeves and torso are too tight.
Finally, lift your arms above your head – if your shirt untucks itself from your pants, it’s either too
short or the arm holes aren’t high enough.
Tips for alterations: There’s no hidden fabric in a shirt – which means that no part of the shirt can be
made bigger. The easiest alteration for a shirt is at the waist, which can be taken in relatively
cheaply.
Different Dress Shirt Styles
Cuff Types
Notch
French (uses cufflinks)
Turnback
Collar types
Button down, Spread
Point, Penny
Pattern Types
Plaid/Tartan
Gingham
Candy Stripe
Herringbone
Houndstooth
How to wear it
A man has so many options when wearing a dress shirt. Some favourites include:
With a tie
With no tie, open collar
No tie, buttoned all the way to the top
Tucked in
Tucked out
Sleeves rolled up while untucked
Sleeves rolled up, shirt tucked in with no tie, buttoned all the way to the top and an ostentatious
pocket square in the shirt’s front pocket.
Each execution has a strong impact on the way the shirt fits into an outfit. Most men just wear their
shirts in the ‘standard’ way – sleeves down, with a tie and jacket. If you’ve never done so, I strongly
encourage you to experiment with your shirts to find out which way you most like to wear them.
The images below feature one shirt worn four different ways. With the sleeves down, the shirt looks
conservative and dressy. With the sleeves rolled to the elbow, the shirt becomes much more relaxed
and casual.
With the sleeves rolled to the mid-bicep – quite prevalent 1960s British street style – the arm muscles
are exposed, creating a somewhat tough and threatening look. Note, this is not something that men
with large muscles should ever do. See our Style for Strong Guys book for more detail on this.
Finally, in the last picture, the shirt is opened with sleeves rolled, atop a crew neck t-shirt. This is the
most relaxed style of the four and makes the shirt appear airy and free-flowing.
T-Shirts
Used strictly as underwear in the 19th century, wearing t-shirts as a standalone garment was frowned
upon until the 1950s – when Marlon Brando wore one in his iconic portrayal of Stanley in A
Streetcar Named Desire. Since then, the humble t-shirt has become a mainstay of casual style. Most
men feel at their most comfortable when wearing a basic t-shirt, and I suggest keeping 5-10 variations
in your wardrobe.
How to tell if a t-shirt fits
T-shirts follow a simple “small, medium, large” sizing format. These sizes are far less precise than
their formal equivalents, reflecting their relaxed-fitting nature. A t-shirt’s fitting rules vary depending
its specific style; if it features a deep neckline and a long, drapey design then it will fit quite
differently to a tight-necked, slim-fitting variant.
In general, though, it’s best to wear t-shirts whose shoulder seam should fall as close to your natural
shoulder as possible. There should be no billowy fabric around your waistline, nor should the t-shirt
be so tight that it clings to your body.
Most men find that a t-shirt is most flattering when the arm reaches around about halfway between
their shoulder and their elbow. This sleeve-length is enough to subtly accentuate the bicep without
brazenly showing it off – which is something that muscular men should always seek to avoid.
Different t-shirt styles
Singlet
Singlets (Australia), vests (UK) or tank tops (US) are sleeveless t-shirts that feature a small strap the
traverses the shoulders.
There are two variations of singlet; those that are designed to be worn as underwear beneath dress
shirts, which are thin and sit tight on the body, and those that are designed to be worn on their own,
which often feature prints and thicker fabrics. The two functions should rarely, if ever, cross over.
Basic T-Shirt
There are three types of basic t-shirt, and as with jumpers, they are defined by their neck style: crew
neck, V-neck and boat neck.
A t-shirt has varying degrees of drape. The neck, the chest and the arms can either be tight-fitting,
free-flowing or somewhere in-between. The way that a basic t-shirt fits your body determines its
level of formality; if it’s slim and well-fitted – like a dress shirt – then it will be much more formal
than a relaxed, drapey variation.
Henley
The Henley shirt was originally a style worn by the rowers in Henley-on-Thames. It is almost
identical in style to a basic t-shirt, although features a 2-5 button placket. Henleys come in both short
and long-sleeved form – the latter being far more common – and are more formal than a basic t-shirt.
Polo
The polo shirt actually owes its origins to tennis star René Lacoste, who wanted a shirt to replace the
stiff and uncomfortable white button-up dress shirts worn by tennis players at the time. It was soon
adopted by polo players, who embroidered small logos on the chest to signify their club.
Polo shirts come in a huge range of colours and styles and are the most formal type of t-shirt.
Chapter 8:
What to do from here
In my experience as a stylist, I’ve found that a man’s attitude and demeanour vastly improves once he
understands the fundamental rules of style.
Take peacoats for example. On more than one occasion, I’ve put a client in a peacoat and he looks
average. Like a man wearing a coat; nothing more, nothing less. But then, when I tell him about the
history of the peacoat – about how it originated in 17th century Holland; about how it was adopted by
sailors all over the world; about how it used heavy wool that protected a man from the cold sea air
while still allowing him to perform heavy duty seafaring tasks – his demeanour changes completely.
His posture change, his attitude changes and I can see that he suddenly feels like he understands
fashion. Like he ‘gets’ it. Like he’s wearing the coat, instead of the coat wearing him.
This book is about the basics of style; about laying a fundamental groundwork that allows a man to
grow and develop his own personal style over time. It does not portend to be all-encompassing; there
are many key elements of men’s style that are simply far too complex for this type of book. However,
with the information gleaned from these pages, men who formerly had no understanding or interest in
dressing well can begin to feel comfortable about clothes, to garner an appreciation for being well
dressed and to discover how to present himself to the world in a positive way.
As you begin to learn more and more about men’s style you will, without a doubt, transcend the
advice given here. Many authors would fight against this – but it should be embraced. Every man
should have complete control over the way he presents himself to the world; far be it from me to
dictate the way in which you do it!
Once you know and understand the fundamentals, the best course of action for developing your style
is to observe. Look at other guys; what are they wearing? How have they put outfits together? What
have they done well, and not so well?
Observations like this will have a huge impact on the way that you dress; if you see a man who you
want to look like, bring your style towards his; if you see a man you don’t want to look like, avoid the
things he does at all costs.
Developing a personal style takes work, and involves many, many mistakes. But every day is a fresh
start, with a new outfit and a new chance to use your wardrobe to make you look your best. You get
365 chances per year to look good; have fun while you do it.
More from this author:
All of the following books are based on self-classification and use the same simple, illustrated and
easy-to-understand format as this one. If you feel that you are short, tall, overweight, muscular or thin,
they will teach you how to use clothing to normalise your proportions and make your body appear
more masculine and attractive:
Style for Short Guys
Every short man has heard the same advice, touted by bloggers and self-proclaimed “fashion experts”
all over the world: wear vertical lines, thick-soled shoes and get a high haircut. In order, “style
rules” are: misguided, ugly and completely incorrect.
“Style for Short Guys” dispels the myths surrounding short men’s fashion, and gives simple, clear
demonstrations of how to use clothing to bring your body into better proportion.
Style for Tall Guys
Being tall is commonly regarded as the ideal masculine form; it denotes power, strength and
attractiveness. However, many tall men feel as though their height is a disadvantage, and makes them
appear gangly, awkward and abnormal.
“Style for Tall Guys” examines the fundamental errors that most tall men make when buying clothes
as well as illustrating the best ways to broaden the body while bringing your legs and torso into better
proportion.
Style for Fat Guys
Overweight men are rarely given much attention in the fashion community. The prevailing (and
completely incorrect) attitude is that portly gents can’t possibly look good, as their bodies don’t
match the ideal male proportions.
Style for Fat Guys is the first men’s fashion book that teaches overweight men how to dress well. It is
completely non-judgemental, and focuses on finding garments which add structure to the body to
create a strong masculine silhouette.
Style for Strong Guys
Most muscular men dress very poorly. They assume that, because their bodies are strong and broad,
they should use clothing to show it off. However, this creates an overly-macho image that makes
muscular men appear vain and self-obsessed.
Style for Strong Guys teaches men how to show off their muscles and broad frames in a subtle,
understated way. It focuses on finding well-fitting clothes that drape the body without being
pretentious and bullish, and avoiding the plethora of negative stereotypes that surround muscular men.
Style for Thin Guys
Thin men often feel emasculated due to their weak shoulders and slender frames. As a thin man
myself, I’m well aware of the stereotypes surrounding this body type, and have developed a strong
series of rules that thin men can follow to broaden their frames and create the ideal masculine
silhouette.
About the Author
James Gallichio is a personal stylist based in Melbourne, Australia. For several years he has helped
men of all ages, shapes and sizes find clothing to suit their bodies, tastes and lifestyles. He
understands that being well-dressed is not simply about wearing suits and ties, and that not all men
want to dress conservatively.
With a background in social psychology, James has a unique ability to teach men about the history and
aesthetic of fashion in a simple, easy-to-understand way. He has worked with clients from a huge
array of backgrounds - from actors and musicians to software developers and IT consultants - all of
whom have developed a style that shows off their bodies in an attractive, masculine way.
Table of Contents
Copyright
Preface
Part 1: The Fundamentals of Style
Introduction
CHAPTER 1: How do you want to look?
CHAPTER 2: Common Style Mistakes
Chapter 3: How to shop
Part 2: The Basic Wardrobe
Introduction
CHAPTER 1: Jackets
CHAPTER 2: Coats
CHAPTER 3: Pants
CHAPTER 4: Jumpers
CHAPTER 5: Shoes
Chapter 6: Boots
CHAPTER 7: Shirts
Chapter 8: What to do from here
More from this author: