Lofoten Islands

grace in the
lofoten islands
Whether one is attracted by the fishing, adventurous activities or outstanding natural beauty,
this far northern region is more than able to hold its own against warmer cruising grounds
T
he Arctic Circle in the northern hemisphere
hardship to savour the experience, but few
and the Antarctic Circle in the southern lie
yachtsmen achieve this goal because of the harsh
at 66 degrees and 33 minutes from the
weather conditions that accompany such high
equator. They are respectively defined as the most
latitudes. For instance, Glacier Bay in Alaska,
northerly and southerly places on the planet where
perhaps the world’s most visited high-latitude
on midsummer day the sun does not set. Because of
cruising area, lies at around 61 degrees north, some
this, areas between these lines and their adjacent
350 nautical miles outside the Arctic Circle. In both
poles are often known as ‘The Land of the Midnight
of these locations there are long hours of daylight,
Sun’, and the further north one goes, there are an
but even on the longest day the sun will set.
increasing number of days when the sun is visible at
However, there is one practically undiscovered
midnight. Such is the appeal of this phenomena
cruising ground where the midnight sun can be
that many people seem prepared to endure some
seen in comfort and safety, and as a real bonus it
<#l#> destinations lofoten islands
Left Grace blends into
the background in the
village of Reine on
Moskenesøya Island.
The magnificent
scenery, clear air and
picturesque villages of
the Lofoten Islands,
not to speak of the
midnight sun, make this
a cruising ground that
should be on everyone’s
wish list
above The cry of
‘Whales ahead!’ brings
everyone to the
foredeck
BELOW FAR LEFT
The sun, still high in the
sky, passes behind
Landegode Island at
midnight
BeLOW CENTRE
Despite the short
summer, its long hours
of daylight ensure that
plants grow well
BELOW
Grace motors past the
southern tip of
Vestvagøy Island in
perfect summer
weather
destinations lofoten islands <#l#>
The Lofoten islands are easy to reach by air
through the town of Bodø, the capital of Norway’s
Salten province, and when flying in one is
immediately aware that this is the far north. In Oslo,
in the south of Norway, the temperature had been
280C, but as the aircraft doors were opened, the air
temperature was just 120C and the skies dismally
grey. As in all high latitudes, weather can be variable
but, as we were soon to find out, the high summer
months of June and July usually offer periods that
can rival Mediterranean conditions.
Bodø airport is just a stone’s throw from the
quayside where Grace was moored, so in a matter of
minutes we were aboard, the lines were cast off and
we were heading out of the harbour bound for the
glorious scenery and traditional fishing villages that
dot both the local coastline. It was a enlightened
ABOVE Even at 11pm,
the sun in Skrova
creates fantastic colours
above right The
owner steers Grace
between narrow cliffs
into the Trollfjord
below A quaint door,
no doubt salvaged from
a ship, has been
preserved for posterity
in the village of
Nusfjord
move. Within an hour we had passed inshore of
also offers outstanding scenic beauty and a host of
Landegode Island and its dramatic peak on our
interesting activities that make the long journey very
north-easterly course, headed for the little port of
worthwhile. This is the Lofoten archipelago in North
Kjerringøy, where we docked in time for dinner.
Norway, which, although lying a full 100 nautical
To fully appreciate this spectacularly beautiful
miles inside the Arctic Circle, is warmed by the Gulf
region, one has to understand its past. Since time
Stream, which lessens the harshness of its latitude.
immemorial the lifeblood of Lofoten has been
Here, the sun does not set at all between the 2nd of
fishing the vast shoals of cod that migrate from the
June and the 10th of July and this, together with its
Barents Sea each year in January and February to
many other charms, makes it a sure-fire place to
spawn among the islands. As far back as 1000AD,
make the most of any cruise.
thousands of fishermen rowed or sailed their tiny
Henk Koster, the Dutch owner of the lovely
craft huge distances from the south to reap this rich
48.3-metre motor yacht Grace, built in 2004 to the
harvest. Conditions were harsh but the rewards were
highest commercial safety standards, first became
great. A huge annual catch was taken ashore and
aware of the beauty of the Lofoten Islands in 1993
when coaching a friend in his private plane. They
had intended a flying tour of Ireland but switched
destinations following an unfavourable weather
report, and this was a decision that he has never
regretted. Since then he has returned to North
Norway in Grace (which was built to ice class with
high latitudes in mind) in both winter and summer,
and this summer he kindly offered to introduce us
to his favourite cruising ground.
<#l#> destinations lofoten islands
dried to create lightweight, easy-to-transport and
introduction of larger motorised fishing craft meant
highly nutritious preserved fish, known locally as
that mainland ports, such as Bodø, became the
stockfish. This was traded to far off lands, including
prime market places for the catch, and the villages
Italy, where, as stoccafisso, it was and remains a
started a lengthy decline. Tourism is blamed for
popular staple for days on which the Church
many of the world’s ills, but its relatively recent rise
proscribed the consumption of meat. To serve this
in Lofoten has provided the impetus for these
industry, which was at one time responsible for up
picturesque houses to be restored as waterside
to 80 per cent of Norway’s total exports, many small
holiday homes, while a wide range of supporting
hamlets, Kjerringøy among them, came into being
adventurous activities are also being established.
around the coastline as trading posts and temporary
Next morning we strolled along Kjerringøy’s quay
fishing camps to trade stockfish, together with furs,
past fishermen’s huts to the old trading centre. Today
eiderdown and walrus tusks harvested in the north
it is hard to believe that this elegantly simple cluster
with foreign merchant seamen. But by 1905 the
of stave-planked wooden warehouses, along with a
above Snow streaks
the mountainside of the
unbelieveably beautiful
Trollfjord
below far left Grace
cruises through the
Raftsundet
below left Stockfish
drying on A-frames in
Svolvær
below Cod hung out
to dry in an a loft in
Henningsvær
fine merchant’s residence, a pretty church and a
handful of smaller grass and bark-roofed houses was
one of the richest trading posts of the region, but
one is thankful to tourism for its preservation.
Our plan for the day was to travel a further 20
miles north-westwards along the mainland coast
before striking out over 20 miles of open water
across the Vestfjorden to the island of the inland of
Skrova, at the end of the Lofoten island chain. Grace
was soon at sea passing the low, flat rocky skerries
destinations lofoten islands <#l#>
(known locally as skjærgård) that protect this entire
coastline. While crossing the mouth of one of the
deep inlets that pierce this mountainous coastline
the cry of ‘whales ahead!’ brought everyone rushing
to the fore deck. Sure enough, black fins and ridged
backs could be seen breaking the surface ahead
– hundreds of them in pods of around four or five
moving in random directions as they fed. Combined
opinion later identified them as pilot whales,
probably feeding on squid or herring, but accurate
identification is notoriously difficult when only the
fin and back are visible.
One of the benefits of much of the Norwegian
coastline is that even large vessels can navigate
well-marked channels inside the outer fringe of
protective skerries – a real boon in bad weather
– and leaving the whales we entered another narrow
yet extremely well marked passage that delivered us
to a calm anchorage off the village of Nordskot in
time for lunch, which was followed by a walk ashore.
The island we chose had once been home to a small
fishing community and its houses are now private or
rented holiday homes. Having walked, waist high,
through wild meadow flowers long disappeared from
the more intensely farmed parts of Europe, we came
across the owner of the largest house, who, with an
affability typical of the region, invited us in to see
his immaculately decorated wooden mansion with
its open-air hot-tub heated by a wood-burning stove.
above A very small
percentage of the
region’s once-enormous
fishing fleet has been
preserved as family
cruising yachts. The
ancestry of early
European merchant
ships can be seen in
this femboring
right Evenings do
become chilly at this
high latitude, so indoors
dining is normal for
dinner
<#l#> destinations lofoten islands
One thing that is not on the Lofoten agenda is sea
bathing, but such tubs make up for this.
Late that afternoon we crossed the Vestfjorden,
heading north towards the distant ridge of
mountains – the ‘Lofoten Wall’, as it is known locally.
The string of islands that protect the Vestfjorden
from the worst excesses of the Arctic Ocean weather
– Austvågøy, Vestvågøy, Flakstadøya, Moskenesøya
and, more detached, Vaerøy and Røst – reach out
from the mainland like a protective hand, palm
down, in a south-westwards arc to ensure that our
20-mile crossing was sheltered and calm. The island
of Skrova, its guiding lighthouse proclaiming its
former status as an important whaling station, was
for centuries under the overlordship of the Ellingsen
family, powerful local squires who were granted the
right to control the fishing trade. While such feudal
control has long disappeared, the Ellingsen name is
still painted proudly on the modern fish processing
factory that dominates the quayside where Grace
berthed for the night.
At dinner that evening it was noted that we had
not yet sampled the region’s famed seafood for the
reason that we had not caught any. So at midnight,
in broad daylight under a now totally blue sky, we
ABOVE Entering
between the steep
walls of the Trollfjord
above LEFT The
whaling industry once
made many rich men in
Skrova as the bench
outside the fish factory
recalls with its wistful
painted message that
reads ‘millionaires
bench’
left Grace’s Buster
tender races off for a
spot of midnight crab
fishing against a
backdrop of the
mountains of the
Lofoten Wall
destinations lofoten islands <#l#>
ABOVE and right At
first it was just a huge
black triangle, but
closer in it was realised
that this was an
8-metre long whale
shark filtering the
plankton-rich waters
Below A poignant
statue of a fisherman’s
wife waving her love
goodbye stands on a
high column at the
entrance to Svolvær
harbour
set off in the tender to rectify the matter. Crabs were
the chosen quarry, and we lowered five pots in a
likely spot, encouraged by tales from Geir Sundt, one
of the guests who lived locally, who told of lifting
pots crammed with 20 or more. But, as we
discovered next day, that was not in the summer
months when they were exhausted from spawning
and, in any case, had little meat on them. We caught
just one, whose claws would only provide a starter
– the main course, we decided, was free to swim
until later that day. Before then, we would visit one
of Norway’s boutique fjords – the Trollfjorden.
In modern Internet slang, a troll is someone who
posts controversial messages in a forum or chat
room, but the real Trolls are deeply entwined in
was steered by her owner but despite its appearance,
Norwegian mythology as fearsome beasts with
cruise ships actually squeeze in here. Sheer walls of
oversized ears and noses that lived underground in
rock tower on either side before it opens into a
hills or caves. Today their memory is enshrined in
mountain-ringed arena where streams rush down
many placenames and, of course, in dolls sold in
sheer cliff faces and tumble through lush green
tourist shops. One can understand why, in winter
hillsides. Many ‘must see’ sights promoted by tourist
perhaps, the steeo-sided Trollfjorden might create a
authorities are underwhelming, but not this one.
suitably dark environment in the minds of the
Later, after an idyllic lunch on deck in baking
superstitious, but in bright summer sunshine, as it
sunshine, we headed back down the sound, heading
was for our visit, it is hard to imagine it as a habitat
for our overnight stop in the port of Svolvær, a trip
for trolls. Approached along the amazingly beautiful
that was interrupted by another demonstration of
Raftsundet, itself lined by mountains slashed with
the richness of these waters. Passing a skerry just
snowfields, the entrance to the Trollfjord is a just
outside the port’s entrance we spotted a distant
narrow cleft in the rock face, through which Grace
black triangle projecting from the water. Altering
<#l#> destinations lofoten islands
left Grace in Nusfjord,
once an active fishing
village but now devoted
to tourism
below The dried head
of a monkfish acts as a
gargoyle on the corner
of a building
bottom The pretty
harbour of Henningsvær
on Austvågøy Island
course, we realised that the triangle was moving, and
on closer inspection we could see it was a fin – an
absolutely huge one. After nudging Grace gingerly
towards it, a body of about eight metres in length
became visible and we realised this was a whale
shark swimming slowly in circles and feeding on
plankton, its nose just clear of the water above a
huge open mouth, while its tail sometimes broke
the surface way astern. It seemed entirely at ease and
perhaps unaware of us as we lined Grace’s rails in
total fascination, only able to break away when
reminded that we had our own fish to catch.
With Grace securely moored alongside in
Svolvær, a bustling fishing port backed by jagged,
destinations lofoten islands <#l#>
snow-capped peaks, we loaded the tenders with rods
and spinners and sped out to sea past the A-frame
racks for drying fish and the poignant statue of a
fisherman’s wife waving farewell at the harbour’s
mouth. Just to the south of the town we found a
couple of likely skerries and set to work. To be frank,
after our less than magnificent achievement at crab
fishing we were not expecting too much success, so
when the line first tugged, the ease with which it
top Local children play
in boats - usually
outboard powered
- from a young age
above Trolls played a
fearsome role in ancient
Norwegian folk lore,
but today their main
impact is in tourist
shops
below The Landegode
lighthouse is now
managed by a local
hotel and used as a
conference centre
was reeled in led us to expect a hook snagged with
seaweed. Wrong. It was a two-and-a-half kilogram cod
that had succumbed without much of a fight, and
this was followed in quick succession by two larger
owner’s Norwegian friends, Kjell Erik Løvold, who
ones who showed more spirit. The other tender was
had taken just an hour to cover the 60 miles from
having equal luck, so having caught our supper we
Bodø in his 8.5 metre Seahawk 285 powered by a
headed home to enjoy it, prepared by our chef, Stian
350hp Yamaha V8 outboard. No ordinary RIB!
Brækkan on attachment to Grace from his ‘day-job’
Next day it was decided that Grace would remain
as chef to King Harald aboard his Royal Yacht Norge.
in Svolvær, allowing her guests to tour the town and
It has to be said that the skill of Braekkan combined
visit a couple of nearby ports, Kabelvåg and
with the freshness of the fish provided a memorable
Henningsvær, in the tough little aluminium Buster
meal that, as the Michelin Guide might summarise
tender. Both were delightfully scenic fishing villages
it, was surely ‘worth the journey’.
nestling beside well-sheltered harbours, where
After the meal, we were joined by another of the
tourists rubbed shoulders with fishermen who
spend the summer months refitting their boats to
such high standards that they could be yachts.
Returning to Svolvær, we shopped in the town
square and walked the quays in the warm sunshine,
admiring yachts ancient and modern but
particularly a modern yet authentic replica of a
traditional fishing vessel that was in the marina.
With its distinctive high prow and stern, a square
sail carried on a single mast, and a completely open,
low freeboard hull with a small sleeping cabin aft,
the early ancestry of European trading ships was
readily apparent. Such vessels were also responsible
for naming the internationally famous tan-painted
fishermen’s huts known as rorbu cabins, or rorbuer,
which evolved from the boat’s aft cabin that was
<#l#> destinations lofoten islands
left Fishermen’s
houses, known as rorbu,
are built on piles at the
harbour’s edge to give
easy access to boats
above An abundance
of flowers is seen
everywhere
below left Skånland
Handelssted, a
delightful merchant’s
house and garden to
the south of Bodø
below Geir Sundt in
his fast Tornado RIB
The weather next day was perfect and as Grace
motored to our next port of call, we were treated to
a sightseeing flight by Albert who gave us a scenic
oversight of the Lofoten Wall. As one guest remarked
later, the whole day was rather ‘James Bond’ – an
exhilarating flight followed by a 60-knot dash in
Kjell Erik’s RIB that raced us to Grace, by then tied
alongside in the tiny picture-perfect, rorbuer-crammed
fishing village of Nusfjord. It was, however, Pimm’s
on deck that evening, not Martinis, as we motored
taken ashore as living quarters. The name rorbu itself
derives from the combination of the Norwegian
words ror, a rowing or fishing boat, and bu, to live.
Next day was dismally grey, cold and rainy,
quietly on to Reine, and there was no sundown!
Our last port of call in the Lofoten Islands, Reine,
was simply stunning. A village set in a wide
sheltered inlet backed by stupendously beautiful
weather that one must be prepared for in Northern
snow-clad mountains, it was one of those places that
Norway. But the Norwegians have a different attitude
you never want to leave, but an appointment with a
to weather that is exemplified in their saying, ‘There
lighthouse keeper beckoned and we set off on the
is no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate
four-hour return crossing of the Vesterfjord after
clothes’ and they are quite prepared to wrap up and
sightseeing ashore and a lazy lunch. The lighthouse
walk the hills or fish in such conditions. In this
was on Landegode, near Bodø, the island we had
modern world of communications however, we less
passed on our first evening, and it was unusual in
hardy mortals opted to stay indoors catching up on
that it was run on behalf of the Norwegian
Internet mail as Grace sailed sedately on to meet
Lighthouse Service by a hotel, whose manager
with another guest, Albert Grootendorst who was
showed us round the old keepers’ accommodation.
flying his aircraft into the airfield at Leknes and
Today, the light is automatic and the buildings are
joining us for a few days.
used as a centre for conferences. Interestingly, we
destinations lofoten islands <#l#>
house would do credit to any English country
garden – a miracle in this harsh climate.
Speeding onwards, we passed through narrows
and rapids to the modern high level Saltstraumen
road bridge that spans the fjord’s narrows. Here, 370
above right Any
voyage aboard Grace is
a gastronomic delight
below Grace pulls
away from Reine
opposite page,
shared the jetty with a modern replica of a14-metre
million cubic metres of water are driven through
femboring fishing vessel, authentic to the last lick of
four times daily by the rise and fall of the tide,
tar, southbound from Tromsø in the north to the
creating a current that can reach 20 knots and a
Nordlandsbåt traditional boat festival in Vega.
maelstrom of whirlpools that have caused the
After spending a night at anchor we docked in
sinking of more than one ship. A few miles further
clockwise from
Bodø next morning for an action packed last day
up the fjord we landed at Tuvsyjen, where an
top left
that was hosted by Geir Sundt. While Ferraris are
enterprising family has created the living conditions
The garden at Skånland
Handelssted; Chef Stian
Brækkan with a freshly
caught cod; Ocean
canoeing is a popular
local activity; The
archtypical Lofoten rorbu
cabin with flag, drying
cod and montain
background; A white
tailed sea eagle; Fishing
boats are immaculately
maintained
quite out of place in Nordland we were quickly
thought to be typical of a stone age community
learning that fast RIBs were not, as Geir drew
living in this region. Visitors are treated to a meal
alongside in his 250hp Yamaha-powered Tornado.
cooked in an underground oven or on the central
We were headed for the Skjerstadfjorden, the upper
open fire in the turf-roofed round houses, which are
reach of the Saltfjorden that penetrates deep into
remarkably snug and smoke free – a great
the mountains south of Bodø, but first we made a
educational experience for children. The final treat
private visit to Skånland Handelssted, a 200-year old
of our cruise was on the return trip to Grace, when a
trading post and merchant’s house on the south side
white-tailed sea eagle swept low over the RIB on its
of the fjord where the present owner, Anne Margrete
way to a nest high on the cliff edge. While common
Mehren, has preserved the small shop, complete
in this area, this was our first sighting of one of these
with its shelves of goods dating back some 60 years.
huge fish-eating birds, whose hooked beak, two
She is also a dedicated gardener and the grounds
metre wingspan and powerful claws make it a
that surround her superb white-painted merchant’s
formidable predator.
Whether one is attracted by the fishing, the
midnight sun, adventurous activities or outstanding
natural beauty, this far northern region is more than
able to hold its own against warmer cruising
grounds, while some more adventurous visitors may
wish to experience the region in winter, when
hunting, fishing, winter sports and viewing the
Aurora Borealis can be added to the menu.
Whichever season attracts, a superyacht is the very
best way in which to experience the region,
providing self-contained ease of movement and a
level of luxury accommodation that is unavailable
to a shore-based visitor. All this, combined with ease
of access, make it one of the cruising destinations
that should be experienced at least once. Beware
though, make one visit and this captivating region
will entice you to return – again and again.
<#l#> destinations lofoten islands
time is spent in countries outside the Agreement.
and outboard motors. Contact: +4799297730.
CLEARANCE Norwegian officials have a reputation
Email: [email protected] and Web: www.lovold.no
V, who has reigned since 1991. Although having
for friendliness and efficiency, and also as strict
EXCURSIONS & TOURS Bodø Maritime AS will assist
rejected membership at two referenda, Norway
enforcers of the relevant regulations, including
in arranging sightseeing, diving and local activities.
maintains close links with the European Union.
registry and IMO rules. The notification rules for
Contact: Tel: +47 900 45755. Email: [email protected]
GETTING THERE Lofoten is best accessed through
Norwegian entry are clearly laid down in the
and Web: www.bomar.as
Bodø airport which is served by SAS (www.sas.
Fairplay Ports Guide. Notification should be made
FURTHER INFORMATION The Norwegian Tourist
no), Norwegian (www.norwegian.no) and Wideroe
24 hours before entry into Norwegian waters.
Board website (www.visitnorway.com) provides
(www.wideroe.no). The airport has a concrete,
The Coastguard Service (Kustvakten) may wish to
valuable visitor information.
3,394-metre x 45-metre runway which accepts
inspect the vessel for all necessary compliances,
GENERAL YACHT INFORMATION The Norwegian
private aircraft and also serves as a hub for regional
while the Royal Norwegian Navy (Sjøforsvaret) will
Cruising Guide, 2009 eBook Edition, by Phyllis Nickel
airline flights to Helgeland, Lofoten and Vesterålen.
require a daily email stating a yachts position and
and John Harries is now available for purchase
Connecting flights from overseas are best made
intended movements. The Norwegian Police will
and download at www.norwegiancruisingguide.
through Oslo, which is served by most major
also need a full crew and guest list, and this must
com. There is no requirement in Norway for foreign
international airlines.
be kept updated.
vessels to hold a cruising permit nor is there a need
VISA REQUIREMENTS Although Norway is not a
YACHT AGENTS Sirius Yacht Services (Tel: +47 932
for any charter permit unless charters are openly
member of the European Union, it is a member
28926, Web: www.yacht-services.no) are one of the
marketed in Norway, in which case VAT (MOMS) will
of the Schengen Agreement. The Schengen Visa is
few superyacht agencies operating in Norway.
be levied on the charter fee. The Norwegian Chart
valid for 90 days – allowing a total of 90 days in
LOCAL ASSISTANCE Kjell-Erik Løvold of Joh. Løvold
office, Statens Kartverk publishes detailed charts
any six-month period to be spent in the Schengen
AS in Bodø will be able to assist with chandlery of
and the richly illustrated Pilot Book, Norske Los for
Agreement area, even if it is a multi-entry visa and
all types, protective clothing, fishing gear, tenders
the North, but only in Norwegian.
fa ct file lofoten isl a nds
Political Norway is a parliamentary democracy
and constitutional monarchy under King Harald