blackBOOK - Roger Norum. Writer.
Transcription
blackBOOK - Roger Norum. Writer.
blackBook a g u i d e fo r t h e so p h i st i cat e d t rav e l l e r h e r e & a b roa d W ith good reason, the Norwegian state has long remained extremely protective of its share of Mother Nature from reckless muckings about, enacting draconian proscriptions (ie, no heliskiing, no waterside construction) to ensure the country – and its brand – remain untarnished. But one endeavour today is challenging the conventional Scandinavian wisdom that you can’t always get what you want built in the countryside. Off the beaten path Scandinavia’s Photo credit here sustainable chic Two new cutting-edge projects in Norway and Sweden that question our relationship to the environment are reminders that the Nordic countries are still at the forefront of melding ecological design and great living, says Roger Norum Contact platinum card service for bookings DepartureS 23 Nature, a few people on skis and Ålesund-born entrepreneur, next to nothing in between. landowner and consummate Nor is the rest of Scandinavia any outdoorsman Knut Slinning has stranger to humans communing teamed up with superstar architects with their environment. Across the Jensen & Skodvin on a unique – and Swedish border lies Kosterhavet, extremely functional, and extremely the country’s first marine national sexy – construction that proves park, opened in September 2009 modern architecture can enhance to safeguard wildlife and the nature instead of detracting from local shore fishing industry while it. Opened this March, the Juvet encouraging sustainable ecoLandscape Hotel (juvet.com) consists tourism. The “park” is actually of seven singular, freestanding rooms 450sq km of open ocean whose carved out of spruce placed smack high salinity and low temperature in the Gudbrandsjuvet, a luxuriant Hiking near Juvet encourage the breeding of some canyon deep in the fjords of Kayaking in Kosterhaven 6,000 protected species of flora and central Norway. The individual pod-like fauna – several hundred of which are structures, each built on 14 steel pylons endemic to the region – including bored half a metre into the bedrock, sport stony coral, giant sponges, harbour seals southwest-facing walls made entirely of and Arctic terns. double-glazed, dual-paned glass that give I’m greeted at the ferry dock by guests unfettered views to the gushing bio-agronomists Stefan and Helena Valldøla River below and the spectacular von Bothmer, 15-year residents alpine peaks that soar above it. The effect of the Koster Islands and is something like watching an IMAX Sydkoster Hotel Ekenäs two of Sweden’s most vocal documentary about the world’s most proponents of sustainable living visually stunning places and permaculture. Stefan leads from your bedroom. me through dense honeysuckle Knut’s buildings communicate and juniper woods and along a the intimate relationship locals windswept coastline of glowing yellow have with their environment. lichen that demarcates the westernmost “Norway has always been settled land in the country. Some 330 about doing things in nature,” Swedes reside here year-round in seaside Knut tells me proudly. “But villages that are among Scandinavia’s we wanted to have people most handsome, sprinkled about with better understand what being swimming beaches, tiny brush forests, Norwegian means today.” Thanks clapboard cottages and a gem of a finto Juvet’s (pronounced YOO-vett) de-siècle seaside resort in the Sydkoster new architecture, you could hardly live closer to the Norwegian woods Hotell Ekenäs (sydkoster.se). Now that the area is protected from gratuitous if you burrowed into the ground and industry, Koster is ideal for getting some pitched a tent there – and you certainly Nordic downtime before hiking, cycling couldn’t live more comfortably. Inside, and kayaking the surrounding islets – or the extremely modern, minimalist rooms scuba diving the many shipwrecks that eschew bland Ikea-chic for deep, dark line (and protect) the reef below. woods, playful chartreuse bathrooms These shallow coastal waters are also and unique Japanese-Norwegian home to cod, mackerel, oysters and designed Stokke Tok recliners perched A freestanding room at Juvet Norwegian lobster – local delicacies that voyeuristically to gaze out at the world. Kosterhaven National Park end up on the seasonal menus of many The project also raises the bar for island restaurants. At the von Bothmer’s ecological sustainability, with an on-site organic café, Koster Trädgårdar (kosterstradgardar. restaurant that serves only locally sourced products, se), Helena serves us a heaping feta salad with a and a sleek all-natural spa, with sauna, steam and dozen types of leaves and bright red strawberries massage rooms. Naturally, there’s plenty to do outside – all of it grown about five metres away in their too, including rafting, canyoning and climbing – even garden. Outside, a springtime bonfire fête at the summertime glacier skiing. “When you go touring seaside has drawn some particularly ravishing blond in the Alps, you’ll stand in a line,” Knut, a longtime representatives of the Swedish yachting fraternity. fan of Switzerland, confides. “But at Juvet I can take Healthy food, beautiful people and a pretty seamless you to a summit where you’ll ski all the way down to fellowship with the environment? Clearly they’re the fjord – and you won’t meet a single person along doing something right up North. the way.” There’s modern Norway for you: Mother 24 Departures Contact platinum card service for bookings Photo credit here blackbook