~ ~ 11 - Lucques

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CHAPTER
8
The
MENU
Chef Suzanne Goin brings
you the new Thanksgiving
table: California by way of
France, where fresh flavors
meet timeless elegance
PHOTOGRAPHS
BY
Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott
,
this page:
Brined Roast
Turkey Breast with
ConfitLegs
P. 108
THE PLANNER
SABRE
DJEMBE
HORN CARVING
SET,
MICH4ELCl'1NA.
COM
Hosting the holiday meal requires a lot more than kitchen prep:
• Set the table a few days ahead~ • Layout serving pieces and utensils with Post-Its
indicating
what each piece is for, so you don't wind up dishing out dressing with tongs.
• The day before, arrange your centerpiece,
chill white wine, and buy bags of ice.
• Choose your outfit beforehand-there's
no time to tryon three pairs of pants the day of.
CHAPTER
BRINED ROAST TURKEY
BREAST WITH CON FIT LEGS
10 SERVINGS
(WITH
SOME LEFTOVERS)
No more
dry bird! Gain prepares the breast and legs
with distinct cooking techniques, resulting
in unbelievable flavor and texture 1 for each
part: The breast is brined overnight before
roasting, and the legs are cooked in duck
fat and left to conii: until fall-off-the-bone
tender. Ask your butcher to remove the legs
and thighs for you, or go to bonappetit.com
!go!gointurkey for step-by-step instructions.
14-lb. turkey, legs and thighs cut
from carcass, keeping drumsticks
and thighs attached, wings cut
from breast
8
THE
MEAL
Place
whole legs and wings on a baking sheet.
Rub chiles, salt, and pepper all over turkey;
transfer to a large resealable plastic bag.
Scatter herbs and lemon zest all around
turkey in bag. Seal bag and chill overnight.
Preheat oven to 250°. Brush off herbs
and excess salt from legs and wings.
Heat duck fat in a heavy 5-qt. pot over
low heat just until melted and warm. Add
legs and wings to pot and submerge.
Place turkey in oven and cook until legs
are tender and a paring knife can be easily
inserted into the thickest part of thigh,
3-3)12hours. Let turkey cool in duck fat at
room temperature, about 2 hours. Cover
and chill overnight. DO AHEAD: Confit can
be made 3 days ahead. Keep chilled.
TURKEY LEG AND WING CON FIT
ARUGULA, GRAPE,AND
ALMOND SALAD WITH SABA
VINAIGRETTE
i:§uJii;iiIlH¥J.i Grapes appear here in
three forms: crushed and whisked into the
vinaigrette, halved and tossed with arugula,
and aged in saba, a balsamic-like syrup
made from grape must.
Yo lb. seedless red or purple
~
~
TURKEY LEG AND WING CONFIT
2
~
1
6
3
2
2
4
dried chiles de arbol, crumbled
cup kosher salt
Tbsp. freshly cracked black pepper
sprigs thyme
sprigs sage
4" sprigs rosemary
bay leaves
2xY:." strips lemon zest (yellow part
only; from about Yo lemon)
9 cups duck fat
BRINE FOR BREAST
2 Tbsp. allspice berries
2 Tbsp. juniper berries
1 Tbsp.fennelseeds
Yo cup kosher salt
Y:. cup sugar
onion, sliced
carrot peeled, cut on a diagonal
Yo fennel bulb, sliced
8 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
8 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
2 dried chiles de arbol
2 whole cloves
ROAST BREAST
sliced yellow onion
Yo bunch sage sprigs
Yo bunch thyme sprigs
~ cup (Yo stick) unsalted butter,
melted
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Dried chiles de arbol
are thin, red, very hot 3"-long chiles. Find
them at Latin markets, specialty foods
stores, and some supermarkets. Duck fat
is available at hudsonvalleyfoiegras
.com. Juniper berries are available at
thespicehouse.com.
INGREDIENT INFO:
108
BONAPPETIT.COM·
NOVEMBER
2012
Coarsely crush
allspice berries with a mortar and pestle.
Alternatively, place in a resealable plastic
freezer bag and crush with a rolling pin or
the bottom of a skillet. Transfer to a large
pot. Repeat with juniper berries, then fennel
seeds. Place spices in pot.
Add salt, sugar, and 2 cups hot water
to pot with spices. Stir until salt and sugar
dissolve. Add onion, carrot, fennel, parsley
and thyme sprigs, bay leaves, chiles, and
cloves. Add 3 quarts very cold water and
stir to combine. Place turkey breast in
brine. Place a plate on top, if necessary, to
keep breast submerged. Cover and chill
overnight.
BRINE FOR BREAST
Preheat oven to 450°.
Line a large roasting pan with foil. Set a rack
inside pan. Scatter onion, sage, and thyme
over rack. Remove turkey breast from brine.
Pat dry with paper towels, Place turkey
breast on top of herbs on rack.
Brush breast with melted butter. Season
with salt and pepper. Roast turkey for
30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to
300°, cover breast loosely with foil, and
continue to roast until an instant-read
thermometer inserted into the thickest part
of breast registers 160°, 2)12-3hours total.
Let breast rest for at least 30 minutes
before carving.
Meanwhile, rewarm confit legs and wings
in duck fat over medium heat. Remove
legs and wings from fat; transfer to a large
nonstick or cast-iron skillet and cook
over medium-high heat until skin is nicely
browned, about 6 minutes per side. Strain
fat from pan and freeze for future use.2
Carve breast; arrange on a platter. Place
wings and legs alongside.
ROAST BREAST
Yo
~
%
grapes
Tbsp. minced shallot
Tbsp. (or more) Sherry vinegar
tsp. kosher salt plus more for
seasoning
cup extra-virgin olive oil
Tbsp. saba or aged balsamic
vinegar plus more for drizzling
Freshly ground black pepper
lb. arugula (about 8 cups)
lb. Roncal, Manchego, or Pecorino
cheese, shaved with a peeler
cup salted, roasted Marcona
almonds, coarsely chopped
INFO: Saba is available at
specialty foods stores and ilmercatoitaliano
.net.3 Marcona almonds can be found at
natural and specialty foods stores and
latienda.com.
INGREDIENT
Finely chop 7 grapes; transfer to a small
bowl. Cut remaining grapes in half; transfer
to another small bowl and set aside. Using a
fork, mash chopped grapes in bowl into
a puree. Stir in shallot, 1Tbsp. Sherry
vinegar, and Y. tsp. salt and let sit for
5 minutes. Whisk in oil and 1Tbsp. saba.
Season vinaigrette to taste with salt,
pepper, and more Sherry vinegar, if desired.
DO AHEAD: Vinaigrette and halved grapes
can be prepared 8 hours ahead. Cover and
chill vinaigrette and grapes separately.
Bring vinaigrette to room temperature and
rewhisk before continuing.
Combine arugula and halved grapes in
a large bowl; drizzle with vinaigrette and
season with salt and pepper. Toss salad to
coat. Arrange salad on chilled dinner plates,
dividing evenly. Scatter cheese and almonds
over. Drizzle salads with more saba.
(continues on page 113)
1 Which is to say, decadent legs and juicy breasts.
It's a guarantee against dry meat.
2 A few mouthwatering ideas: Toss potatoes with
duck fat and roast until golden, add to stir-fried
rice, or use to saute hearty greens.
3 Don't just buy it for this salad and never use it
again. We love it drizzled over roasted vegetables.
",We've cooked so
..many impressive
meals for friends and
family from Su~anne
Goin's cookbook,
Sunday
Suppers
at
Lucques, we couldn't
help wondering what
\\ \ \ \
the Los Angeles
chef would make
for Thanksgiving.
The food at her
restaurantsLucques, A.O.C.,
Tavern, and
the Larder at
Maple Drive-Is
approachably
elegant. Who else
would confit turkey
legs in duck fat and
followthem with
a pecan-chocolate
pie? With an A.O.C.
cookbook sl~ted
for next fall, we're
already excited for
Thanksgiving 2013.
jig. 1
SUZANNE GOIN
THE WINE
y
Caroline Styne, co-owner
and wine director of
Goin's restaurants, keeps
it classic: "I really like
Pinot Noir with turkey,"
Champagne whets
the appetite.
WALES CHAIR,
ORGANICMODERNISM
. COM
she says. "The meat
the wine share a
sweetness that mak~$
them work well tog,e~er,"
She prefers a leaner, ·Hi/
earthier Pi not from cooler
climes, like Italy's Valle
d'Aosta and Caltfornia's
Central Coast.
Kale
Dressing
CHAPTER
(continuedfrom
page 108)
KALE DRESSING
i:§u,·UjliJlJufi Crispy around the edges and
soft in the center, this side dish-laced with
fennel, onions, and slow-cooked kale-will
please everyone at the table.
2 lb. countrv-stvle white bread,
crusts removed, torn into
t" pieces
% cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 Tbsp. fennel seeds
Yo cup (Yo stick) unsalted butter
2 sprigs rosemary
, dried chile de arbol, broken in half
, Yo cups minced fennel
, Yo cups minced onions
2 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
Slow-Cooked Tuscan Kale (see
recipe)
Yo cup dry white wine
3Yo cups low-sodium chicken or turkey
broth
2 large eggs, beaten to blend
INFO: Dried chiles de arbol. thin,
red, very hot 3"-long chiles, are available at
Latin markets, specialty foods stores, and
some supermarkets.
INGREDIENT
8
THE
MEAL
caramelized, 6-8 minutes. Discard rosemary
sprigs and chile. Add vegetable mixture and
Slow-Cooked Tuscan Kale to croutons.
Boil wine in same skillet over mediumhigh heat until reduced by %, 1-2 minutes.
Add broth; bring to a boil. Add to crouton
mixture; toss well. Season with salt and
pepper. Add eggs; stir to distribute. Transfer
to a 13x9x2" baking dish. Cover with foil.
Bake dressing until heated through,
about 30 minutes (a knife inserted into the
center should be hot to the touch). Remove
foil and bake until bread is golden and
crisped on top, 25-30 minutes longer.
SLOW-COOKED
TUSCAN
KALE
Taking your time with
kale draws out its sweetness. This dish is
also delicious served with pork.
'df.iii'i,':[UiIIY49i1ij
another firm date variety; Medjool dates are
too soft and sticky for this recipe.
y, cup shelled raw pumpkin seeds
4
y.
Yo
% tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
lb. Tuscan kale (about 2 bunches),
center ribs and stems removed
y. cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin
olive oil
Yo sprig rosemary
dried chile de arbol. broken into
4 pieces
cup sliced yellow onion
Freshly ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
INFO: Tuscan kale, also called
black kale, dinosaur kale, Lacinato kale, or
cavolo nero, has long, narrow, dark green
bumpy leaves; find it at farmers' markets and
some supermarkets. Dried chiles de arbol are
available at Latin markets, specialty foods
stores, and some supermarkets.
INGREDIENT
Preheat oven to 400°. Using your hands,
toss bread in a large bowl while drizzling
with Y, cup oil, squeezing bread to help it
absorb oil. Spread out on 2 rimmed baking
sheets, dividing equally; set aside.
Toast bread, stirring often and rotating
baking sheets halfway through, until
croutons are golden brown and crisp on the
outside but still a little soft inside, about
20 minutes. Let cool; return to large bowl.
Meanwhile, toast fennel seeds in a small
skillet over medium heat, shaking pan often,
until seeds are fragrant and light gold,
2-3 minutes. Let cool. Using a spice mill or
a mortar and pestle, coarsely grind fennel
seeds; set aside. Alternatively, crush seeds
in a resealable freezer bag with bottom of a
heavy skillet.
Heat a large skillet over medium heat
for 2 minutes. Add remaining Y. cup oil
and butter. When butter is melted, add
rosemary sprigs and chile; let sizzle in
pan for 1 minute, then add crushed fennel
seeds, fennel, onions, thyme, and garlic.
Season with salt and pepper and saute
until vegetables are tender and lightly
ROASTED SQUASH WITH DATE
RELISH AND PUMPKIN
SEEDS
i:6"iiii11iiUi. Be sure to use Deglet Noar or
Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to
a rapid boil over high heat. Working in
2 batches, blanch kale for 2 minutes. Drain,
let cool. and squeeze out excess water with
your hands. Coarsely chop; set aside.
Heat a large pot over medium heat for
2 minutes. Add Y. cup oil, rosemary sprig, and
chile. Let sizzle, shaking pan often, for about
1 minute. Reduce heat to medium-low; add
onion. Season with Y, tsp. salt and a pinch of
pepper. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring often; stir
in garlic. Cook, stirring often, until onion is
soft and starting to brown, 5-7 minutes.
Add remaining 2 Tbsp. oil and kale; stir
to coat. Season with Y. tsp. salt, reduce heat
to medium-low, and cook, stirring often,
until kale turns almost black and is slightly
crisp at edges, about 30 minutes. Let cool.
Discard rosemary and chile.
2
(pepitas)
tsp. plus % cup extra-virgin olive
oil, divided
Kosher salt
lb. kabocha or acorn squash,
each squash halved through
root end, seeded
Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
cup (or more) fresh lemon juice
cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
bunch dandelion greens, tough
ends trimmed (about 4 oz.)
cup Deglet Noar dates (about
3Yo oz.), pitted, thinly sliced
lengthwise
oz. Parmesan, cut into Yo" cubes
(about Y, cup; optional)
Arrange racks in upper and lower thirds of
oven; preheat to 375°. Spread out pumpkin
seeds in a single layer on a rimmed baking
sheet and toast on top rack, stirring once
or twice, until lightly browned, puffed, and
aromatic, about 7 minutes. Toss pumpkin
seeds on sheet with 1tsp. oil and a pinch
of salt. Let coolon sheet; transfer to a work
surface and coarsely chop. DO AHEAD:
Pumpkin seeds can be prepared 1 day
ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.
Increase oven temperature to 425°.
Place squash, cut side down, on a cutting
board. Using a sharp knife, carefully remove
peel. Cut squash lengthwise into %"-thick
wedges. Place squash, Y. cup oil, and thyme
in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
Toss to coat. Divide squash between 2 large
rimmed baking sheets, cut side down, in a
single layer.
Roast squash, rotating sheets halfway
through, until tender when pierced with a
fork, 25-30 minutes; set aside.
Mix remaining Y, cup oil, Y. cup lemon
juice, and parsley in a medium bowl. Season
dressing with salt, pepper, and additional
lemon juice, if desired. Place dandelion
greens in a large bowl; drizzle with 1Tbsp.
dressing. Season with salt and pepper; toss
to coat. Add dates and Parmesan, if using,
to remaining dressing in bowl for date relish.
Arrange dandelion greens on a large
platter; top with warm squash. Spoon date
relish over; garnish with pumpkin seeds.
NOVEMBER
2012·
BONAPPETIT.COM
113
--------------------
CHAPTER
CELERY ROOT PUREE WITH
TOASTED HAZELNUTS
i:§"iiilj"'U4i Celery root and potatoes
are a mash made in heaven. Transfer cubed
potatoes and celery root to a bowl of water
as soon as you cut them to keep them from
turning brown.
3 lb. celery root, peeled, cut into
y,"' cubes
3 lb. russet potatoes, peeled, cut
into 1" cubes
Kosher salt
% cup heavy cream
% cup whole milk
y. cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter,
cut into W' cubes
Freshly ground black pepper
Tbsp. good-quality hazelnut oil
Yo cup coarsely chopped toasted
hazelnuts
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
Place celery roof and potatoes in a large
heavy pot. Add cold water to cover; season
with salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high
heat. Reduce heat; simmer until vegetables
can be pierced with a fork, 20-25 minutes.
Drain vegetables well. Pass vegetables
through food mill or potato ricer into
same pot.
Meanwhile, bring cream and milk just to
a simmer in a medium saucepan; remove
from heat. Stir vegetable puree constantly
over medium-low heat until excess moisture
evaporates, about 2 minutes.
Stir butter into puree a few pieces at a
time, blending between additions. Remove
from heat; slowly fold in cream mixture until
a smooth puree forms. Season to taste with
salt and pepper. DO AHEAD: Puree can be
made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill. Rewarm in a
microwave or in a heatproof bowl set over a
large pot of simmering water.
Strain hot puree through a medium-mesh
sieve into a serving bqwl (this makes the
texture especially smooth and creamy).
Drizzle with oil; scatter hazelnuts over.
GREEN
BEANS
.: ••••• 14;1111I41 Forget the rule about cooking
vegetables just until they're crisp-tender.
The oven-roasting method used here results
in lusciously soft beans with intensified
flavor. Be sure to use fresh beans; older ones
can be dry and tough.
114
BONAPPETIT.COM·
THE
MEAL
2Y. lb. tender green beans, trimmed
3 bunches scallions, trimmed with
1" green tops still attached,
halved lengthwise
6 large garlic cloves, each cut
lengthwise into 4 slices
y. cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. fresh sage leaves
1 Tbsp. fresh rosemary leaves
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
2 tsp. kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 375°. Combine first 8
ingredients in a large bowl and season with
pepper. Toss to evenly incorporate. Transfer
beans to a large rimmed baking sheet.
Roast beans, stirring every 10 minutes,
until wilted, shrunken, and browned at
edges, about 1 hour. (You may need to stir
more often toward end for even browning.)
A food mill or
potato ricer
SLOW-ROASTED
WITH SAGE
8
NOVEMBER
2012
PECAN AND CHOCOLATE TART
WITH BOURBON WHIPPED
CREME FRAicHE
.:•..•. Ui@lifj This tart is a tradition-forming
mix of caramel, crunchy pecans, and
melted chocolate. Be sure to let it rest for
30 minutes before serving.
1y.
Yo
y.
y.
y.
Yo
3
4
%
Yo
2
Pate Sucree disk (see recipe)
All-purpose flour (for dusting)
cups chopped pecans plus
1Y.-2 cups pecan halves
cup (Y. stick) unsalted butter
vanilla bean, split lengthwise
cup sugar
cup dark corn syrup
cup light corn syrup
tsp. kosher salt
large eggs
oz. semisweet or bittersweet
choco~te,chopped
cup heavy cream
cup creme fraiche
tsp.bourbon
An 11"-diameter fluted
tart pan with a removable bottom
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
Rollout Pate Sucree disk on a lightly floured
work surface to a Ys"-thick round, dusting
with flour as necessary to prevent sticking.
Transfer crust to tart pan; press onto bottom
and up sides of pan. Trim dough flush with
edge of pan. Chill for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350°. Spread
out chopped pecans in a single layer on
a rimmed baking sheet and toast, stirring
once or twice, until lightly browned and
aromatic, 8-10 minutes.
Place butter in a small skillet over
medium heat. Scrape in seeds from vanilla
bean; add bean. Cook, swirling pan a few
times, until butter browns and smells nutty,
about 5 minutes. Discard vanilla bean,
Whisk sugar, both corn syrups, and salt
in a large bowl. Whisk in warm brown butter,
then eggs; whisk to blend. Spread chopped
pecans in an even layer over prepared tart
shell. Scatter chocolate over. Place pecan
halves in concentric circles over chopped
pecans and chocolate. Pour filling slowly
and evenly over nuts.
Bake tart until filling is just set in center,
45-50 minutes.
Transfer tart to a wire rack; let cool for
at least 30 minutes. DO AHEAD: Tart can
be made 8 hours ahead. Let stand at room
temperature.
Beat cream, creme fralche, and bourbon
until soft peaks form. DO AHEAD: Bourbon
whipped creme fralche can be made 4 hours
ahead. Cover; chill. Rewhisk before serving.
Remove pan sides. Cut tart into wedges.
Serve warm or at room temperature with
bourbon whipped creme fralche.
pATE SUCREE
idB3i*iMjii?ili Adding egg yolks, cream,
and sugar transforms a standard crust into
something almost cookie-like. Freeze the
second crust for later use.
3 large egg yolks
Yo cup heavy cream
2% cups all-purpose flour
cup (2 sticks) chilled unsalted
butter, cut into y,"' cubes
Yo cup plus 3 Tbsp. sugar
Yo tsp. kosher salt
Whisk egg yolks and cream in a small bowl;
set aside. Pulse flour, butter, sugar, and
salt in a food processor until a coarse meal
forms. With machine running, gradually add
cream mixture; blend just to combine (do
not overwork dough or crust will be tough).
Transfer dough to a large work surface.
Knead just to incorporate, 4-5 turns. Divide
dough in half; shape each half into a l"-thick
disk and wrap in plastic. Chill until firm,
at least 2 hours. DO AHEAD: Crust can be
made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled. Let stand
at room temperature for 15 minutes before
rolling out. Crust can also be frozen for up
to 4 months. Thaw overnight in refrigerator
before rolling out.
THE SECRET WEAPON:
WHIPPED
CREAM
No need to make a
different sauce for
each dessert. A bowl
oflighUy sweetened
whipped cream
is a literal crowdpleaser: It covers
up baking disasters
and goes with pretty
much any sweet
you set on the table.
(Or try Suzanne
Goi n's recipe for
bourbon whipped
creme fraiche,
recipe opposite; it's
another delicious
multitasker.) So
stick your mixing
bowl and beaters in
the freezer for an
hour, pour in chilled
heavy cream and a
spoonful of sugar,
and beat until soft
peaks form. It's
the one thing that
won't leave you with
leftovers.
Jig. 1
SOFT PEAKS
this page:
Pecan and
Chocolate Tart with
Bourbon Whipped
Creme Fraiche