Ruger Model 10/22 Carbine

Iowegan’ Book of Knowledge For the Ruger
10/22 Carbine and Rifle
Ruger Model 10/22 Carbine
Ruger 10/22 Custom Rifle
Disclaimer:
Many of the procedures in this document require special tools or
skills and may be beyond the abilities of the reader.
Do not attempt alterations unless you feel confident of success.
Don’t even think about messing with your gun unless both the
magazine and chamber are unloaded.
The Iowegan is not responsible for Screwups!
INDEX
Accessories
Accuracy
Aftermarket Parts
18
7
8
Lubrication
Magazines
Magazine Disassembly
Ammunition
Barrel Droop
Barrel, Match Grade
5
7
7
Magazine Assembly and
Tension Adjustment
Magazine Release
Modification
Malfunctions
Operation Cycle
On the Cover
Battery Disconnect
Bolt Lock
Bolt Lock Modification
4
4
14
4
5
6
6
14
5
5
18
Building a Custom 10/22 17
Cleanliness
6
Cleaning From the Breach 9
Receiver Finish
Receiver Modification
Safety
12
10
4
Design
Evolution
Extractor
3
3
5
Schematic
Scopes
Sear Engagement
19
7
14
Extractor Removal
Extractor Modification
Field Stripping
10
11
8
Sights
Stocks
Trigger Guard Module
3
8
13
Final Assembly
Firing Pin Protrusion
Firing Pin Removal
17
11
11
Trigger Guard Module
Disassembly
Trigger Guard Module
Assembly
Trigger Pull
Firing Pin Replacement
Function Test
Headspace
Introduction
Legal Note
12
4
11
Upper Receiver
Disassembly
Upper Receiver
Assembly
3
18
-2-
13
14
8
9
12
Introduction: The 10/22 series guns are semiautomatic rifles chambered for 22 Long
Rifle ammunition. There were also 10/22s chambered in 22 Winchester Rimfire Magnum
(10/22 RBM and 10/22 RBR) and a 10/17 chambered in 17 Hornady Magnum Rimfire.
These models had functional problems and were only made for a few years. The Charger
Pistol has the same receiver but with a 10” barrel and laminated pistol stock. The 10/22
has been Ruger’s biggest selling gun since the company started in 1949. More 10/22s
have been manufactured than any other model by any company in history. This document
only supports the 22 LR models.
Evolution: The Ruger 10/22 was first introduced in 1964 with a blued 18.5” barrel,
walnut stock, metal butt plate, Lyman rear sight, and metal barrel band. As time went on,
Ruger made many changes, primarily with the stocks and barrels. The receiver remained
unchanged until 2008, when the aluminum trigger guard and barrel band were changed to
ABS plastic. The stainless version (K10/22) has a stainless steel barrel and an aluminum
receiver that is colored to match the barrel. A special model 10/22 Rifle was made for
Wal-Mart with a 22” barrel (10/22-22) which had a birch stock and no barrel band. The
10/22 has been shipped with a variety of stocks to include plain birch, Zytel composite,
maple, Fingergroove Sportster, hand checkered walnut, full length International, and
several different laminated models. The butt plate was changed to plastic many years ago.
All 10/22s are drilled and tapped for a scope base. Earlier models came with a 3/8” tipoff base while later models came with a Weaver style base.
Design: Popularity in the first several years of production was based on the 10/22s light
weight, exceptional operation qualities, and modest price. Later, aftermarket companies
began to make a host of custom parts to include stocks, barrels, high capacity magazines,
and internal parts that boosted 10/22 sales even more. The simplicity of the design makes
customizing so easy that a person with average mechanical skills can effectively
customize their 10/22s with exceptional results and not have to pay a gunsmith. 10/22s
have more aftermarket support than any other 22 rimfire on the market.
The 10/22 has a modular design consisting of the trigger group assembly, bolt assembly,
receiver body, barrel assembly, and stock. It uses a simple “blow-back” design where part
of the energy generated by the fired cartridge will blow the bolt to the rear. This
operation ejects the spent case and when the recoil spring pushes the bolt back, it strips a
new round from the magazine and chambers it, making the gun ready to fire another
round. What makes the 10/22 so unique is threefold; the rotary magazine, the no-screw
receiver design, and the barrel mounting system.
Sights: Target models do not have iron sights. All other models are equipped with a post
style front sight with a brass dot that is set in a dovetail. The rear sight will flip down to
accommodate a scope. The rear sight has two small screws that hold the sight leaf, which
can be inverted for either a small or large notch and can be adjusted for elevation. Note:
The sight screws break very easily so do not over torque them. The pointer and scale
provide a reference where the longer centerline is supposed to be zero at 50 yards.
Windage is adjusted by drifting the rear or front sight. To move the point of impact (POI)
to the right, use a hammer and punch to drift the rear sight to the right or the front sight to
the left. Raising the sight leaf moves the POI higher. Note: The older Lyman rear sights
look much like the newer ones except the leaf is not notched on both ends. For an 18.5”
barrel, each .008” of sight movement will change the POI by 1” @ 50 yards.
-3-
Safety: The 10/22 is equipped with several safety features. The first is the actual Safety
catch, which is located just in front to the trigger guard. When the red band on the safety
plunger is visible, the gun is in the “Fire” mode (pushed to the left). When the safety
catch is in the “Safe” mode (pushed to the right), it does two things; it blocks the trigger
and locks the sear. Note: the internal hammer must be cocked before the safety catch will
engage properly. The second device is called a “disconnector” which captures the
hammer until the trigger is released. This prevents the 10/22 from going “fully
automatic”. The safest way to load the 10/22 is to (1) manually lock the bolt by pulling
the Cocking Handle back and latching the Bolt Lock. (2) Set the Safety catch in the
“Safe” mode. (3) Insert a loaded magazine. (4) Pull the Cocking Handle back and release
the Bolt Lock then let go of the cocking handle to chamber a live round. Of course the
muzzle must be pointed in a safe direction and your finger must not be on the trigger.
Bolt Lock: 10/22s are not factory equipped with an automatic lock back bolt. That
means the bolt will return to battery after the last round has been fired. Typically, the
shooter will dry fire to confirm the gun is empty. As such, the 10/22 is equipped with a
Firing Pin Stop Pin that prevents damage to the chamber mouth and firing pin when dry
fired. This makes the 10/22 safe to dry fire, though not to excess.
Battery Disconnect: 10/22s are not equipped with a full battery disconnect like some
semi-auto rifles. That means if the bolt does not go fully closed (in battery) you can still
pull the trigger and release the hammer. This could cause the rifle to fire even if the
cartridge is not fully chambered. Normally this is not a problem with rimfire rifles,
however; in rare instances, case heads have blown out. This could burn a shooter and
could cause a bullet to lodge in the barrel. If you ever experience a case head blow out,
immediately unload the gun and check the bore for a lodged bullet.
Function test: Before each shooting session, you should do a function test to make sure
everything is working properly. Start by making sure the chamber is empty and the
magazine is removed. Pull the Cocking Handle all the way to the rear and hold it there
with your right hand. Position the Bolt Lock by pulling it like a trigger with your left
forefinger then let the Cocking Handle ease foreword. The Bolt should lock back. Switch
the Safety to the Safe mode. Insert a white patch or paper in the receiver to catch light.
Look down the bore to inspect for obstructions and cleanliness. Remove the white patch
then pull the Cocking Handle back and hold it there. Push in on the Bolt Lock’s top notch
with a left hand fingernail. The bolt should now release and move forward to battery.
Squeeze the Trigger. The rifle should NOT dry fire. Switch the Safety to the Fire
position. Squeeze the Trigger with your left hand and hold it fully to the rear. The gun
should dry fire. While still holding the Trigger fully to the rear, pull the Cocking Handle
all the way back with your right hand, then release it. Release the trigger. You should
hear a slight click as the hammer resets from the disconnector. Again, pull the trigger to
make sure it dry fires. Inspect the magazine(s) and make sure they are clean and
serviceable.
Lubrication: 10/22s work best with minimal lubrication. Do not use grease and only a
very sparing amount of oil in the receiver, trigger group, or bolt. 22 rimfire ammo
shoots very dirty in a semi-automatic because of the blow-back operation. When powder
residue is attracted by oil, it will wear the gun faster than with no oil at all, plus it will
cause misfires, feeding, or extraction problems.
-4-
Operation Cycle: (assuming a loaded chamber and the internal hammer is cocked)
1. With the safety catch in Fire position, the trigger is pulled.
2. Sear releases the hammer.
3. Hammer is driven forward under tension from the hammer spring.
4. Hammer strikes firing pin.
5. Firing pin strikes the rim of the cartridge.
6. Cartridge fires, pressure pushes the spent case back against the bolt
7. Spent case and bolt are thrust to the rear.
8. Extractor grips the rim of the spent case and holds it against the bolt face.
9. Bullet exits the muzzle.
10. Case head strikes the ejector, which flings the spent case out of the receiver.
11. Bolt contacts the hammer and forces it back until it latches on the disconnector.
12. Bolt starts forward under tension from the recoil spring.
13. Bolt face strips new cartridge from the magazine.
14. Recoil spring tension forces the bolt forward until the cartridge is fully chambered.
15. Trigger is released and moves forward.
16. Disconnector resets hammer to the sear.
Malfunctions: 10/22s are famous for cycling well, however you may encounter
occasional or frequent malfunctions. There are only a few things that contribute to
malfunctions; failure to feed a new round, failure to extract, and failure to fire. It’s easy
to confuse failures to feed and failures to extract. The key is when you see a spent case in
the receiver, that is a failure to extract. When cartridges get stuck trying to chamber, that
is a failure to feed.
Extractor: The single most influential part in the 10/22s cycle is the extractor. If the
extractor doesn’t hold the case head snug against the bolt face, it will fall into the receiver
before striking the ejector. This will cause a malfunction because both the case being
extracted and the round trying to feed will occupy the same space at the same time.
Factory extractors are a stamped part and are often shaped wrong for reliable operation.
Any time you see a spent case in the receiver, you have a failure to extract, which is an
extractor problem. See page 11 for extractor fixes.
Ammunition: Bulk pack ammunition, such as Remington Golden Bullets or Federal
Bulk Packs, are notorious for quality issues like: non-uniform sized bullets or cases, high
dud rate, and variations in the powder charge. Any of these issues can cause feeding
problems. Light powder charges can also cause extraction problems because sometimes
there isn’t enough power to cycle the action. These issues are not usually found in
premium grade ammunition that comes in 50 or 100 round boxes.
Magazines: Ruger factory magazines are very reliable and are about the only magazines
in the industry that can be totally disassembled for both cleaning and spring tension
adjustments. Powder residue will eventually build up inside magazines and cause feeding
malfunctions. Aftermarket high capacity magazines are “in line” and are not a rotary
design like Ruger magazines. As such, they typically contribute to feeding problems.
There is one exception … Tactical Innovation TI25. They are fully adjustable and
typically feed flawless. Of course they aren’t cheap ($70).
-5-
Magazine Disassembly: Remove the 9/64” Allen head axis screw (or flat tip screw for
older model mags, see below photo). The hex plug nut will push out and allow the rear
plate of the magazine body to come off. At that point, lift off the metal guide (also known
as “lips”) then remove the rotor. Clean the inside of the body thoroughly to include the
rotor and lips.
Magazine Reassembly and adjustment: Insert the rotor into the magazine body so the
spring end of the rotor is at the open end of the body (see photo). Slide the metal guide
into position. Note: the metal guide has a larger round post on one end and a smaller
round post on the other end. The end with the large post goes in first and aligns with the
hole in the body. The metal guide will only mount properly in one position. Place the end
cap on the magazine body. The tension spring tip will protrude from the center hole.
Locate the tiny hole in the hex plug nut and guide the spring tip into the hole. With the
hex plug nut facing up, rotate it clockwise until you feel the rotor rotate and index against
the metal guide. With a pencil, mark a reference point on the hex plug nut. Insert the
Allen head axis screw. Rotate the hex plug nut two full turns clockwise from the
reference point where the rotor indexed. This will be about the right tension for most
magazines. Turn the axis screw until snug but do not over tighten. Test for a properly
adjusted magazine by loading it with 10 rounds then use a tool to briskly strip them out.
If all cartridges strip smoothly and the last few pop up with good tension, the magazine
should feed fine.
Cleanliness: 10/22s are probably the most forgiving rifles on the market for working
when they are dirty. At some point though, powder residue will build up enough where
the gun starts to malfunction. This could affect feeding, extraction, and even misfires.
The best solution is to field strip the 10/22 and clean up the powder residue. After field
stripping, flooding the bolt and inside the receiver with solvent, scrubbing, then blowing
them out with compressed air works well. Field stripping is detailed on page 8.
-6-
Barrel droop: Over torque on the barrel’s “V” block screws can cause the receiver to
stretch and make the barrel droop. This will change the angle where the bolt is not
aligned straight with the barrel and cause cartridges to jam while trying to feed at an
angle. In extreme cases, the receiver is stretched beyond repair. Sometimes a thin flat
shim placed on the top of the barrel (very close to the chamber) will remove enough
droop where the gun will still function. Droop is sometimes so severe that a scope won’t
have enough adjustment to zero. DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE “V” BLOCK
SCREWS!
Match grade barrels: The chambers in match grade aftermarket custom barrels usually
have a “Bentz” or similar match chamber. Typical bulk ammo that feeds well in a more
generous chambered standard barrel is commonly a bit “fat” in diameter and will not
chamber well in tight match grade barrels. The industry has settled on two popular barrel
diameters; .720” for the standard tapered barrel and .920” for bull barrels. There are also
heavy contour barrels that are not a “drop-in” fit with either the factory stock or a .920”
channel stock. The advantage of bull barrels is they don’t flex like a tapered barrel and
are not influenced nearly as much by heat generated from firing, however they are heavy.
There are a host of other barrel options to include fluted, stainless steel, carbon fiber, and
even barrels with built in compensators. Though these barrels all work quite well, they
cost a lot more and really don’t perform any better than a conventional .920” bull barrel.
Accuracy: Standard 10/22s are plenty accurate for plinking and hunting small game but
most DO NOT exhibit target or match grade accuracy. The typical range for 10/22
accuracy with a standard barrel is 50 yards. At distances beyond 50 yards, the size of the
groups may spread considerably. The 10/22T target model and guns with aftermarket
match grade barrels can be accurate enough for serious bench rest competition and will
shoot tight groups out to 100 yards. Most of the accuracy issues in stock 10/22s are with
Ruger’s generous chambers that enhance feeding but lose accuracy.
Scopes: All 10/22s are drilled and tapped for a scope base, included when you buy a new
rifle. When mounting a scope, it is essential to have the four base mount screws tight but
don’t over torque them or you will strip out the soft aluminum receiver. Repeatability
depends on having all scope screws and the “V” block screws tight as well. Scopes for
10/22s should be specifically made for rimfire rifles or they should have an adjustable
objective lens (AO) to correct for parallax at different distances. That’s because the optics
in most high power riflescopes are set for parallax correction at 100-150 yards, which is
beyond the normal shooting distance for 22s. Parallax is a condition where the reticle
appears to drift when your eye is positioned differently from shot to shot. The closer the
shooting distance and/or the more magnification, the more parallax drift you can get.
Most rimfire scopes are reasonably priced yet have the features of high power scopes.
Magnification or zoom range is dependent on use. Any scope over 4X gets hard to hold
steady when shooting off hand or for hunting. From a bench rest, a high magnification
scope can be stabilized much easier. A 3X9 variable makes a great plinking, hunting, and
general-purpose scope. For match grade guns, you can go up to much higher
magnifications, but keep in mind, the more powerful the scope, the more detrimental side
affects you get such as a narrow field of view, poor light transmission, critical eye relief,
size, weight, parallax, and the “wiggle factor”, where holding the gun stationery is quite a
challenge. Unless you buy a cantilever barrel and mount, the scope will mount on the
receiver, not the barrel, so any movement between the two will cause scattered groups.
-7-
Trigger pull: Out-of-the-box trigger pull on standard models lends itself to considerable
creep (feeling of movement) and a heavy pull weight. Aftermarket drop-in kits can easily
reduce trigger pull to a crisp 3-4 lbs. Additionally, for those mechanically inclined
owners, the sear and hammer notch can be dressed to greatly improve factory trigger pull.
Stocks: Accuracy can be affected by how well a stock fits and how much flex it allows.
As barrels heat up from firing, they will expand slightly and exert pressure on the stock
channel. This could make the 10/22’s groups loosen up. Even more flex influence comes
from stocks equipped with a sling. As the sling is pulled to the side when shooting, it will
cause the stock to flex which in turn will actually pull the barrel to the side. The barrel
band on 10/22 Carbines sometimes makes a big difference in accuracy too. There are tons
of aftermarket stocks made for the 10/22s, just make sure it has the right sized channel.
Aftermarket Parts: With exception of trigger pull kits, extended magazine releases, or
enhanced bolt locks, most of the aftermarket internal parts for a 10/22 do very little for
function or accuracy. Generally, they are just another way to spend money for “braggin’
rights”. Likewise, most of the expensive gunsmithing techniques really don’t improve
function or accuracy except when they correct out-of-spec conditions such as excessive
headspace. On a standard model, you probably won’t notice much difference but with a
custom match grade gun, correcting headspace could account for modest accuracy
improvement. Headspace measurement and correction is detailed on page 11.
If you are building up a custom or match grade 10/22, the most significant improvement
in accuracy comes from a match grade barrel. Green Mountain bull barrels are some of
the best and are modestly priced. The more expensive barrels such as Clark, Shilen, or
Volquartsen are excellent too and will greatly improve accuracy but they are not nearly as
cost effective.
Field stripping the 10/22: Breaking the 10/22 down into “modules” makes it assessable
for cleaning, repairs, and modification. Use the included schematic on page 19 for
reference to numbered parts. Start with removing the magazine by pushing in on the
Magazine Release and pulling the Magazine out. Pull the Cocking Handle back to cock
the internal hammer. Inspect the chamber and make sure the gun is not loaded. To
remove the Barrel Band (part #2) (if so equipped), remove the Barrel Band Screw (part
#3). To keep from scratching the end of the stock, wedge a flat tip screwdriver between
the lower ends of the Barrel Band and spread it to remove. Loosen the Take Down Screw
(part #61) until it is fully released. Center the Safety (part #70) between Safe and Fire.
Lift the barrel and receiver assembly out of the stock. See page 17 for reassembly.
-8-
Tap the Bolt Stop Pin (part #10) and the two Receiver Cross Pins (part #42) out with a
hammer and 3/16” punch. Be careful to drive them straight and do not mar the finish.
Note: Sometimes the pins are so loose they will fall out or can be pushed out with finger
pressure. Remove the Trigger Guard Assembly (part #64) by lifting it out of the receiver.
Upper Receiver Disassembly: Position the receiver so the open inside is facing up. Pull
the Cocking Handle all the way back and hold it there while gripping the front of the Bolt
Assembly (part #6) with your finger. Raise the front of the Bolt Assembly up until it
releases from the Cocking Handle then remove the Bolt Assembly. Ease the Cocking
Handle forward until the Recoil Spring is totally relaxed. Remove the Cocking Handle,
Guide Rod & Recoil Spring Assembly (part # 13) from the Receiver (part #69).
The 10/22 is now field stripped and ready for cleaning. Disassembly of the Bolt
Assembly and the Trigger Group Assembly is not recommended for routine cleaning.
The most effective way to clean the bolt is to soak it or saturate it with powder solvent
then use a tooth brush to scrub all surfaces. Cleaning the breach face and the area under
the extractor is especially important. Blow the bolt dry with compressed air or wipe it dry
with rags. To best way to clean the Trigger Group Assembly is to spray a liberal amount
of WD-40 or solvent in the housing, let it sit for a few minutes to dissolve the residue,
then blow it out with compressed air.
Cleaning From the Breach: If you have a match grade barrel, you should insert your
cleaning rod from the breach end or you may damage the crown on the muzzle. You have
two options. One is to remove the barrel from the receiver to gain access to the chamber.
To do this, remove the two “V” block screws with a 5/32” Allen wrench, then remove the
“V” block and pull the barrel straight out from the receiver.
-9-
Receiver Modification: Another option is a modification where you drill a ¼” hole in
the back of the receiver so a cleaning rod can be inserted into the breach without
removing the barrel. This is actually the best option for scoped target/ match 10/22s
because removing the barrel can change your scope’s zero slightly and repeated barrel
removal will age the “V” block mount. The hole will act as a rod guide and will get
covered up when the receiver is mounted in the stock, plus it will not affect function
Place the receiver in a vise, being careful not to mar the finish. Measure and center punch
the mark as detailed in the above photo then drill a ¼” hole in the back of the receiver.
Extractor Removal and Installation: To remove the extractor (part #19), use a thin
jeweler’s screwdriver to push the extractor plunger (part #20) back into the plunger hole.
Insert a 1/8” drill bit shank into the extension hole just behind the extractor. Once the
drill bit is seated, peel the extractor back like in the photo. Block the front of the plunger
hole to prevent launching parts then pull the drill bit out. Remove the extractor plunger
(part #20) and spring (part #21). Clean the parts, extractor slot, and plunger hole. At this
point, you can install a new extractor, modify the factory extractor, or reinstall the factory
extractor. To reinstall the extractor, place to plunger spring (part #21) in the plunger hole
then place the plunger in the same hole. Grip the extractor with the claw to the front and
use the extension on the extractor to push back on the plunger. When the extension aligns
with the extension hole, it will snap right in place.
- 10 -
Extractors: Factory Extractors are a stamped part and are often misshaped for reliable
operation. Sometimes one brand of ammo will feed just fine while other brands don’t. If
you have extraction problems, you might consider replacing the factory Extractor with a
Volquartsen “Exact Edge” Extractor or modify your factory Extractor like in the drawing.
This will improve extraction where all brands of ammo will extract reliably with the
factory barrel and premium ammo will extract from match grade barrels where chambers
are very tight.
Firing Pin Protrusion: This is a fairly critical measurement. If the firing pin travels too
far forward, it will damage the chamber mouth when the gun is dry fired. If it doesn’t
travel far enough, it won’t strike the case rim deep enough to cause detonation. Push on
the rear of the firing pin (where the hammer strikes) and hold the pin forward. When the
firing pin is pushed in to the limit, look at the tip. It should be about .010” short of being
flush with the bolt face. When firing pins wear, the tip could get peened shorter, chipped,
or deformed. The slot in the firing pin where the firing pin stop pin goes can wear longer,
thus allow the firing pin to travel too far. If the Firing Pin Stop Pin is good and the firing
pin travels too far or not far enough, you may need to replace the firing pin.
Firing Pin Removal: To remove the firing pin, you must drive out the Firing Pin Stop
Pin (part #24), with a 5/32” pin punch. If the punch is not the right size, you may damage
the roll pin. Drive the roll pin from either side until it is out just far enough to remove the
Firing Pin (part #22). Slide the Firing Pin to the rear to remove. Remove the Firing Pin
Spring (part #23), which is located under the Firing Pin. Clean the firing pin channel, the
Firing Pin, and the spring. Inspect the Firing Pin for peening on the rear end and on the
tip. Peening can be dressed off the rear but peening, chips, or defects on the tip will
usually require a new firing pin.
Headspace: With the Extractor removed, you can measure headspace and check the front
of the bolt face to see if it is squared properly. Use a dial or digital caliper to measure
how deep the Breach Face is in reference to the Bolt Face. This measurement takes the
thickness of the cartridge’s rim into consideration. The breach depth should be no more
than .050” and no less than .043” with .045” as the optimum depth. If the Breach Face is
too deep, excessive headspace can cause minor accuracy issues in match grade 10/22s. If
it is too shallow (rare), you could get “slam fires” when the bolt rebounds into battery.
Place the front half of the Bolt Body on a flat surface (drill press table works great). Use
a machinist’s square or other square object to see if the bolt face is indeed square. If it is
not, excessive powder residue will blow back into the receiver. If needed, you can square
the bolt face and/or set the breach face depth to .045” by using a 90 degree vertical belt or
disc sander with fine metal cutting sandpaper.
- 11 -
The Firing Pin Stop Pin has a dual function. It retains the Firing Pin and limits the firing
pin’s forward travel so the tip won’t hit the chamber mouth. After repeated dry firing, the
Firing Pin Stop Pin may get damaged and allow the firing pin to travel too far forward. If
there is any evidence of damage to the barrel’s chamber mouth, replace the Firing Pin
Stop Pin with a new 5/32” roll pin.
Firing Pin Installation: Set the Firing Pin Spring in the channel. Slide the Firing Pin in
from the rear and make sure the notch on the bottom picks up the spring. Important: The
roll pin’s slot MUST BE FACING TO THE FRONT to ensure proper firing pin throw.
Hold the firing pin all the way forward then tap the roll pin part way in until it retains the
firing pin. Test the firing pin for proper spring return tension. The firing pin must not
bind in the channel and should spring back freely when the rear of the firing pin is pushed
then released. If OK, tap the roll pin in until it is flush on both sides.
Receiver Finish: Ruger used to use a powder finish on the “blued” aluminum receivers
but changed to a paint finish that has about the same durability. If your receiver gets
scratched up, you can easily restore it by sanding the scratches out with 400 grit
sandpaper then spray-painting the outside surfaces with High Temperature Flat Black
Engine Paint. This paint is available at most car parts stores. Once the paint cures for a
few days, it is just as durable as the factory finish and looks the same. For stainless
10/22s, you can sand the finish then buff the surface to get the desired finish. Note: the
factory powder finish and painted finishes will not hold up to harsh chemicals such as
brake cleaner and solvents not designed for guns.
Upper Receiver Assembly: Install the Cocking Handle, Guide Rod & Recoil Spring
Assembly (part # 13) in the Receiver (part #69) by locating the tip of the Guide Rod in
the receiver’s pocket. Use a tool to start moving the Cocking Handle back against spring
tension until it is as far back as possible. While holding the Cocking Handle, lay the Bolt
Assembly (part #6) in place and position it where the Cocking Handle’s horizontal bar
locks into the slot of the Bolt Assembly. Slowly release the Cocking Handle until the Bolt
Assembly is fully forward.
- 12 -
Trigger Guard Module: The trigger guard housing (part #64) contains 26 parts to
include: Ejector, Magazine Latch, Trigger, Sear, Hammer, Safety, pins and springs. The
housing was made from aluminum but in 2008, Ruger changed it to ABS plastic. With
exception of the plastic Magazine Release, all internal parts are still the same and all parts
are interchangeable between both housings.
Disassembly of the Trigger Guard Module: This is a fairly complex procedure. Note:
You will need to fabricate a 1/8” pin follower for reassembly.
1. Hold the hammer (part #68) with your thumb while pulling the trigger then allow the
hammer to ease fully forward.
2. Grab the Hammer Strut Assembly (part #s 28, 29, & 30) with a needle nose pliers and
pull it out of the housing.
3. Use a 7/64” pin punch or suitable substitute and push the Ejector Pin (part #33) out
from either side.
4. Lift the Ejector (part #17) straight up and out of the housing.
5. Using the pin punch, push the Magazine Latch Pivot Pin (part #33) out of the housing.
Note: There are two pins with the same part #33 and are interchangeable.
6. Lift the Bolt Lock (part #8) out of the housing.
7. Push in on the Magazine Latch Plunger (part #34) and the Magazine Latch (part #32)
will fall out from the bottom of the housing.
8. Pull the Magazine Latch Plunger and Spring (part #s 34 & 35) out from the front of the
housing.
9. Push the Hammer Pivot Pin (part #27) out of the housing using a punch.
10. Lift the Hammer (part #68), two Hammer Bushings (both Part # 26), and Bolt Lock
Spring (part #9) up and out of the housing.
11. Use a punch to push the Trigger Pivot Pin (part #65) out of the housing. Note: the
Trigger Pivot Pin is the same diameter as two other pins but it is shorter.
12. Remove the Trigger and Disconnector Assembly (parts #14, 15, & 62), Sear (part
#71), Sear Spring (part #16), and Trigger Spring and Plunger (parts # 66 & 67). Note:
You do not have to remove the Disconnector and Disconnector Pivot Pin (part #14 & 15).
13. The safety need not be removed unless there is an issue with it. To Remove, place the
Safety in the SAFE position. Grab the right end of the Safety with a pliers and rotate the
Safety clockwise 90 degrees. Use the pliers to pull the Safety out from the right side.
Note: The Safety Detent Plunger and Spring (parts #47 & 48) are located under the
Safety and will launch with considerable force when the Safety is pulled out. It’s best to
do this step with the housing contained in a large clear plastic bag.
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Bolt Lock Modification: The Bolt Lock (part #8) is a troublesome part to operate. Use a
small file to reshape the detent like in the photo. This will allow the Bolt Lock to operate
with much less effort.
Magazine Release Modification: Another troublesome part is the Magazine Release
(part #32). You may want to install an aftermarket extended magazine release or you can
drill and tap the factory release and install an extension screw. The screw used in the
below photo is an 8x32x3/4” Allen head. The new model with a plastic Trigger Guard
Assembly already has an extended Magazine Release.
Sear Engagement: While the Trigger Guard Assembly is in pieces, it’s a good time to
modify the existing sear and hammer or install an aftermarket match grade trigger kit.
You can smooth up and lighten the factory trigger pull by buffing the sear’s point of
contact and the hammer’s sear notch. These two surfaces should be buffed smooth but
not to the point of being rounded. Note: Changing the sear angle can cause the 10/22 to
accidentally go fully automatic. This can be very dangerous so don’t remove any metal.
Trigger Guard Reassembly: Again, this is a complicated process. You may want to
contain the housing and the parts in a large clear plastic bag while you are working on
them to prevent losing parts. You will need to fabricate a “ ¼” pin follower” prior to
reassembly.
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1. (Omit if you did not remove the Safety) Insert the Safety Detent Spring and Plunger
(part #47 & 48) into the hole inside the bottom of the housing, plunger last. Hold the
Safety (part #70) where the larger rounded surface is on the bottom then slide the Safety
into its hole until it almost contacts the Detent Plunger. To prevent slipping off the
plunger, use a small piece of metal tubing such as a ballpoint pen refill to push the
plunger down against spring tension. Slide the Safety into position then rotate it counterclockwise until the flat surface is on top. Slide the Safety in the Fire position. Note: This
step can result in the plunger & spring launching so be very careful.
2. Fabricate a metal pin follower that is 1/8” diameter and .475” long with both ends
slightly rounded. A section of 1/8” drill bit shank will work perfect.
3. Pre-assemble the trigger, sear, and disconnector by inserting one end of the
Disconnector/Sear Spring (part #16) into the hole in the Sear (part #71), then slide the
Sear into the Trigger’s channel (part #62). Insert the other end of the Spring in the hole of
the Disconnector (part #14). Hold the assembly together while inserting the fabricated pin
follower into the hole where the Trigger Pivot Pin would normally go. Once assembled,
test it by pushing down on the sear until it latches then push on the top of the
disconnector to see if it unlatches.
4. Insert the Trigger Spring & Plunger (parts # 66 & 67), plunger last, into the housing’s
hole located inside the rear of the trigger guard.
5. While holding the trigger plunger and spring in position, set the pre-assembled
Trigger/Sear/Disconnector into the housing from the top. Manipulate the assembly until
the trigger is to the rear against the plunger and the fabricated pin follower aligns with the
housing’s trigger pivot pin hole.
6. Start the Trigger Pivot Pin (part # 65) into the housing’s pin hole then push the pin
follower out as you push the pivot pin in. The pin should be flush on both sides. Note:
The Trigger Pivot Pin is the same diameter but is shorter than the other two 1/8” pins.
7. Pre-assemble the hammer (part #68), hammer bushings (parts #26), and Bolt Lock
Spring (part #9) by inserting a hammer bushing in each side of the hammer’s lower hole.
The Bolt Lock Spring goes on the right side of the hammer with the loop on the right
bushing and the off-set leg on the bottom as shown in the following photo.
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8. While holding the Bolt Lock Spring in place, insert the Hammer face up in the
housing. Push down slightly against the tension of the sear spring then align the hammer
pivot hole with the housing hole and guide the Hammer Pivot Pin (part #27) through the
housing until is flush on both sides.
9. Insert the Magazine Latch Plunger and Spring (parts #34 & 35) into the large front
hole in the housing. Hold the housing with the trigger guard up then use your finger to
push the plunger in against spring tension and hold it for the next step.
10. Position the Magazine Latch (part #32) in the housing then ease pressure off the
plunger. The Magazine Latch should be held in place.
11. Start the Magazine Latch Pivot Pin (part #33) in from the right side (as you would
hold it to shoot). Align the housing hole with the latch hole then push the pivot pin in
about ½ way.
12. Hold the housing with the trigger guard down. Position the off set end of the Bolt
Lock Spring (part #9) straight up. Slide the Bolt Lock (part #8) in position from the top
and align the lower hole with the housing hole.
13. Push the Magazine Latch Pivot Pin (part #33) the rest of the way in until flush.
14. Roll the Bolt Lock Spring (part #9) forward until the off-set leg is resting in the notch
of the Bolt Lock extension.
15. Hold the top leg of the Bolt Lock Spring (part #9) down against tension until it is
below the top hole in the housing.
16. Start the Ejector Pin (part #33) into the housing from the right side and push it in with
the leg of the spring under the pin.
17. Run the Ejector Pin through the hole in the Ejector (part #17) then seat the Ejector in
the housing slot. Continue pushing the Ejector Pin through the hole in the Ejector, the top
hole in the Bolt Lock and finally through the left side of the housing.
18. Pull the trigger then push the hammer forward until it stops. Set the base of the
Hammer Strut Assembly (part #s 28, 29, & 30) in the hole inside the rear of the housing.
Manipulate the strut until it is seated in the hole and the ball tip is positioned in the
hammer’s slot. Cock the hammer with your finger.
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Final Assembly: Insert the Trigger Guard Assembly (part #64) into the receiver. Align
the front hole in the housing with the hole in the Trigger Guard. Insert one of the
Receiver Cross Pins (part #42) into the hole and tap it in until flush on both sides. Align
the rear hole of the Trigger guard Assembly with the hole in the receiver and install the
other Receiver Cross Pin (part #42). Insert the Bolt Stop Pin (part #10) and flush it on
both sides. Place the Safety half way between Safe and Fire then install the barreled
action into the stock. Note: Some pins are so loose they will fall out or reposition when
you move the rifle so make sure all three pins remain flush as you set the receiver into the
stock. Tighten the Take Down Screw (part #61). This screw should be tight but do not
over torque it. If the gun is equipped with a Barrel Band, insert the blade of a flat tip
screwdriver in the lower Barrel Band (part #2) and spread it. Slide the Barrel Band in
place, remove the screwdriver then install the Barrel Band Screw (part #3) and tighten it.
Building a Custom 10/22: There are more aftermarket parts for 10/22s than any other 22
rifle on the market. The beauty of the 10/22 is you can change the configuration without
having to recruit the services of a gunsmith. Nearly all modifications are reversible if you
decide to restore your 10/22 to the factory configuration. The starting point is always
planning. To avoid buying unnecessary parts, you should have an idea of what you want
the finished project to be. It could be something as simple as a folding stock Carbine or as
exotic as a competition match grade rifle.
The very first thing to do is either modify the factory Extractor or buy a Volquartsen
Exact Edge Extractor. The functional improvement is well worth $11.
One thing all 10/22s can use is a good trigger system. Volquartsen, Clark, and Power
Custom all make drop-in trigger kits. All are good but the Power Custom Kit is probably
the best for the money. It comes with a hammer, sear, hammer shims, hammer spring,
and sear spring. Brownells sells the kit for $60 or you can buy it with screw adjustable
pre-travel and a trigger spring for $73. Both have a typical crisp pull weight of 2 ¾ - 3
lbs. You may opt to buy the Volquartsen hammer kit. It will also improve pull weight and
creep but for the price ($43) the PC kit is a much better deal.
As pointed out before, the factory Magazine Release and the Bolt Lock are not the best
functioning parts, nor is the factory Takedown Screw. You can either modify your
factory parts or you can buy custom replacements. For under $12, you can get either a
Clark Speed Bolt Release or a Volquartsen Bolt Release. Either beat the tar out of the
factory part. The factory Magazine Release can be replaced with an extended release
made by either Ranch Products ($13) or Volquartsen ($19). Most slotted Takedown
screws get hosed because of the wide slot. A Volquartsen Socket Head (Allen) screw is a
good improvement ($4.50).
Next is the barrel. If you have any model except the 10/22T (factory target model), the
barrels are just not capable of match grade accuracy. As a plinker, they’re great but if you
want better accuracy, an aftermarket barrel is a must. If you want to maintain the
lightweight Carbine profile, a standard taper carbon fiber barrel from Butler Creek is a
good choice for $140. For match grade accuracy, you really can’t beat one of the many
bull barrels that are available. Price varies a lot depending on things like plain, finned,
fluted, and compensated. Though some have great cosmetic appeal, the $400 barrels
really don’t shoot much better than a .920 bull barrel made by Green Mountain for $100.
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Custom stocks are often required when you change barrels. Of course you can route out
the factory barrel channel to fit a larger barrel but generally, you will be more satisfied
with a decent aftermarket drop-in stock. There are composite, laminated, solid wood, and
all sorts of colors and combinations. Here’s an opportunity to make your 10/22 look the
way you want it. Custom stocks cost as little as $80 or can exceed $500. Sling studs are a
great addition to stocks. In addition to installing a sling, you can use the front stud for a
bi-pod.
Decent sights or scopes are a must for match grade accuracy and greatly enhance a rifle
even if you just use it as a plinker. The factory open sights aren’t bad … but many
shooters really want a scope. Very few custom barrels have provisions for open sights.
Typically, you want to match your optics quality to the gun. For a plinker, a $50 rimfire
scope is all you need. For serious competition, an expensive Leupold grade scope may be
needed. For most of us, something in between will do nicely. For the most part, with
optics, you get what you pay for. Don’t expect $500 quality and performance from a $50
scope. Also keep in mind; the 10/22 is a 22 LR not some high powered center fire
magnums so you don’t need to go over board with super expensive mounts and scopes.
Last are the goodies that are really just for looks. They include flash suppressors, nifty
bolt handles, and many internal parts that are expensive but offer very little, if any, actual
improvement in accuracy or function. Let your wallet be your guide.
Accessories: Some of the more important accessories would be a well-padded carrying
case, several 10-round Ruger Magazines, or if you are into high capacity, get some
Tactical Innovation TI25s. Uncle Mike’s Sling studs, QD swivels, and a decent sling may
be in order for your style of shooting. Butler Creek Scope Caps are great. A tool kit with
a 3/16”, 7/64”, and 5/32” pin punches, a 5/32” Allen wrench for the “V” block screws, a
scope adjusting tool, screwdrivers for the takedown screw and scope mounts, plus a
needle nose pliers. Don’t forget to include a pin follower for the trigger assembly and a
1/8” drill bit and jeweler’s screwdriver for the extractor. Harris makes great Bi-pods if
you are so inclined. Last but not least is a good cleaning rod and kit. Supply it with extra
bronze bore brushes, white cloth patches, Hoppie’s #9 Solvent and a bottle of Rem-Oil.
Brownell’s, www.brownells.com and Midway www.midwayusa.com are great resources
for 10/22 repair parts, custom parts, and accessories.
On the Cover: The top rifle is a 10/22 Carbine, made in 1974. It is completely factory
stock and was shipped with a metal butt plate & barrel band, walnut stock, Lyman rear
sight, sling studs, and old style magazine. The bottom rifle started out as a 10/22 Carbine
but now the only thing close to original is the receiver. This custom 10/22 has a Green
Mountain 20” bull barrel, Fajen fully adjustable thumb-through-hole composite stock
with sling studs, modified factory extended magazine release, modified factory bolt lock,
headspace adjusted bolt, 4 lb crisp trigger job (factory parts), breach entry hole in
receiver, and a 3-9X Barska rimfire scope.
Legal Note: BATFE has very specific laws for how handguns and long guns are treated.
Ruger Charger Pistols are considered handguns and 10/22s are considered rifles. It is
illegal to install a barrel shorter than 16 inches on a rifle receiver but it is legal to install a
longer barrel on a pistol receiver. The serial numbered receiver determines rifle or pistol.
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Ruger 10/22 Schematic
Note: Part numbers in RED are available from Ruger
or Brownell’s. Part numbers in BLACK are factory
fitted parts and are not sold without sending the gun to
Ruger.
The End
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