thebeefloversjournal
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thebeefloversjournal
T H E ISSUE 02 B E E F L O V E R S SUMMER 2013 J O U R N A L FREE 1 I N S I D E Inspiring Beef Recipes, Hot from the Chefs’ Kitchens, Page 10-21. ◆ Master the Culinary Art of American-Style BBQ Smoking, Page 8. ◆ Discover Brisket - The International Star of Slow Cooking, Page 6. AT themainmeal.com.au our aim is to inspire you to experiment with beef in exhilarating new ways; expanding your repertoire of beef recipes and cooking techniques. It’s with resounding passion for the primary produce that we present the features in this second edition of Meat & Co. the team at: themainmeal.com.au INTRODUCTION 03 Filled with inspirational recipes direct from the chefs’ kitchen, this issue flaunts the unsung international star of slow cook barbecue with melt-in-the-mouth brisket recipes; to give you the pratical 'know-how' we’ve extracted some helpful brisket cooking tips and insider knowledge from our talented chefs and butchers. We fly across the globe to explore the origins of the barbecue and help you master the art of American-style barbecue smoking, before introducing you to Milton and Gaylene de Jonge, responsible for bringing you some of the finest beef from the edge of the world in Cape Grim, Tasmania. Enjoy and create! 04 Address: Level 1, 165 Walker Street, North Sydney, NSW 2060 Phone 02-9463-9333 Email: [email protected] Website: themainmeal.com.au Editor: Natalie Johnson [email protected] Art Direction and Design: Mash mashdesign.com.au Printing: Southern Colour (Vic) Pty Ltd southerncolour.com.au Paper Stock: Cover: Nordset 250gsm by Raleigh Paper Text: Grange Laser 120gsm by K.W. Doggett Food Stylist: Simon Bajada simonbajada.com Food Photography: John Laurie johnlauriephoto.com Steve Brown stevebrownphotography.com (Pg. 8, 9, 11) Illustration: Andy McIntyre littlebones.com.au The paper stock is an environmentally-responsible paper sourced from well-managed forests and is Elemental Chlorine Free (ECF). • This publication is published by Meat & Livestock Australia Limited ABN 39 081 678 364 (MLA). Care is taken to ensure the accuracy of information in the publication; however, MLA cannot accept responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of the information or opinions contained in the publication. Readers should rely on their own enquiries when making decisions concerning their interests. Reproduction in whole or in part of this publication is prohibited without the prior written consent of MLA. © 2013 • Published January 2013 CREDITS Contents Issue No.2 –– Summer ‘13 10 Recipes Texas inspired Barbecued Brisket 10 Memphis-Style Barbecued Brisket 12 Rib Eye Steak with Béarnaise 16 6-Hour Braised Brisket 18 4-Hour Beef Short Rib 20 Panko Crumbed Beef Brisket 26 3 Introduction 8 Master the art of American-Style BBQ Smoking image left: –– Rib Eye Steak with Béarnaise 16 CONTENTS 05 6 Brisket: the slow and steady international star 14 U.S.A. Land of the Barbecue 22 In Conversation: beef from the edge of the world 24 Artisan DryAging for Delicious Flavours W H E N it comes to international cuisine stars, Named after its fiery chilli sauce, Suea Rong beef simply takes the brisket. Relatively low in Hai is a dish originating from North Eastern cost, yet full of juicy flavour, the versatility of Thailand, but given its nickname, ‘weeping brisket is legendary. Thanks to the explosion of tiger’, it’s not for the faint hearted. This popinterest in global cuisines, Australia is starting ular regional dish is made by first marinating to discover the brisket – which when combined the brisket and then grilling it, before serving with slow and stewith a fragrant daady cooking prork herb sauce. duces a tenderness In areas of and flavour like no Southern China, other cut. brisket is spiced Brisket is the and cooked over T he S l o w an d S tea d y wildly popular star low heat to ensure I nte r nati o na l S ta r of the American maximum tenderbarbecue, especialness, before being ly in the Southern states where regional mari- added to noodle soups or curries, while the nades and rubs add distinctive flavours before Japanese enjoy it thinly sliced before grillsmoking the meat over wood or charcoal (see ing yakiniku-style, on small iron mesh barPage 8 for our step-by-step guide on smoking becues at the table or plunged into a hotpot American-style). It’s here that chefs closely mixture of soy, mirin and sugar to make sukiguard their special blends of woodchips – often yaki, Japan's most popular beef dish. the secret infusion of flavour enhancements to No matter where in the world you draw their signature barbecue brisket recipes. your inspiration from, slow-cooked brisket In Mexico, brisket is prepared in a more will reward you with emptied plates, contentraditional barbacoa-style. Marinated using ted tummies and the knowledge that you’ve just regional recipes, it’s then wrapped in leaves uncovered one of the best kept secrets of the and slow-cooked in a pit in the ground or beef world. wrapped and cooked over indirect heat. The result is supremely tender beef which is shred> TRY T H ES E ded with a fork and used to fill burritos, or Memphis-Style Barbecued Brisket with Memphis BBQ Sauce Pg.12 simply served on a plate with beans and rice. 6-Hour Braised Brisket B R I S K E T B u t c he r ’ s T i p s : No. 1 ––––Brisket, particularly the marbled, point end of the cut, will slow cook extremely well and if you want to try something different – ask for grain-fed or Wagyu beef. No. 2 –––– Marinating overnight is an essential part of preparing brisket for slow cooking. We recommend marinating in an acidic liquid such as lemon or lime juice as this will tenderise the brisket and help spices infuse through to the deep fat in the meat. No. 3 ––––Bring your brisket to room temperature before cooking and leave some fat cover on the muscle to retain moisture and add flavour during cooking. No. 4 ––––Cooking at a nice low temperature ensures a marvellous result. Brisket is fibrous, which is why it shreds so well, so it’s important to add some water to the pan to retain moisture as it cooks. BRISKET 077 with Mac and Cheese Pg.18 MASTER THE ART OF American-Style BBQ Smoking with C H E F G reg o ry L le w ellyn, Hartsyard, Sydney S m o k in g is a barbecue technique not often seen in Australia, but the benefits of this American-style low, slow cooking technique brings unrivaled tenderness to beef, while the smoke of wood chips infuses terrific flavour. Experimenting with different types of wood chips - oak, apple, hickory and mesquite, for example – will deliver different enticing flavours. So if you’ve ever wondered how to achieve delicious smoky-flavoured ultra-tender beef, simply follow the steps below. Here, we’ve taken a cut of brisket (7kg) and shown you how to smoke it – in glorious southern -style. You will need a kettle style barbecue for this slowcook method. 02 08 Woodchips can be soaked in water 24 hours in advance. This will ensure the chips do not ignite or burn, but rather smolder, creating a smoke to flavour the meat throughout the cooking process. Scatter the woodchips over the coals - the more you add, a greater chance of smoke flavour being present in the meat. Balance the wire rack over chips and coals, then close the lid of the barbecue. 01 Start by preparing your brisket the day before serving. Choose your favourite marinade or make a dry spice rub (see Gregory Llewellyn’s recipe on Page 10) and cover the meat with it. Place the brisket in the refrigerator overnight. 03 > C hef's T ips 5kg cut of brisket serves 12-15 people Remove from refrigerator before cooking to allow the meat to reach room temperature. Prepare the barbecue – ignite the charcoal and let it burn until it is ash coloured. MASTER THE ART OF 04 When the barbecue has reached 125°C and smoke fills the lid, place the brisket fat side up on the rack. Close the lid. As the fat cooks and dissolves, it will drip through the meat. 06 > C h e f's T i p s Devour this deliciously tender and flavoursome beef with barbecued corn and your favourite accompaniments. The Memphis-style BBQ sauce in the recipe on Pg.12 will add an extra smoky hit. > C h e f's T i p s Smoking time is about 1.5 hours per 500g of beef. 05 Check the brisket periodically, adding more chips if necessary. If you are using a marinade, additional basting can be done at this time but be sure to move quickly so as not to lose heat from the barbecue. > READ MORE about the versatility of Brisket on Pg.6 AMERICAN STYLE BBQ 09 Don't turn the brisket during cooking. You want the fat to continue to drip down through the meat. After 8-9 hours the brisket should be cooked to your liking. Remove the meat from the barbecue and rest before carving. Serves ––––– 15 20 to Texas inspired BBQ Brisket with Mustard Sauce PR E P A R I N G DRY RU B Method: Blend the yellow and black mustard seeds along with the dried chillies, then pour all ingredients into a bowl and mix. Apply oil and rub mix into brisket before placing it in the fridge the day before cooking. MU S T A RD S A UC E Method: Sweat the onions and garlic in a fry pan until golden brown, then add the vinegar and reduce by half. Add all other ingredients to the pan and simmer for an additional 25 minutes. Season to taste. 10 T O PR E P A R E Follow Gregory’s smoked brisket instructions on Pg 8. Serve with a tomato based salad or cooked corn. Beef 5kg cut of Beef Brisket Dry Rub 2 tbs onion powder 2 tbs garlic powder 500g brown sugar 3 tbs yellow mustard seeds 3 tbs black mustard seeds 500g salt 5 tbs paprika 2 tbs dried chilli (Ancho chilli) Mustard Based Sauce 3 onions 100g crushed garlic cloves 2 litres of Apple cider vinegar 1 litre of mustard Paprika Garlic powder Onion powder Tomato sauce ◆◆◆ This American-style, low and slow cooking technique brings unrivaled tenderness to beef, while the smoke of wood chips infuses terrific flavour. Re c i p e b y Chef Gregory Llewellyn, Hartsyard, Sydney RECIPES > M E AT & C O. SEC RETS TO S U C CES S Ask your butcher for an untrimmed brisket, as the fat is key to successful smoking. Try to get a good 1-2cm ‘cap’ of fat over the top of the cut. A 2-3kg piece of brisket will feed 5-10 people and will take 6-8 hours to cook. 11 Serves ––––– 12 12 Memphis-Style Barbecued Brisket with Memphis BBQ Sauce PR E P A R I N G DRY RU B Beef Method: Mix all rub ingredients together except for the Worcestershire sauce. Score the brisket on both sides. Cover both sides of the meat with the rub mix. Rub seasonings well into the scored section of meat. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Take the meat out of the fridge, season meat again with extra rub and Worcestershire sauce. Place in a roasting pan, cover with foil and bake at 110°C in an oven until beef is tender and juicy (approximately 8 hours). Let beef rest for 30 minutes before serving. 3kg Brisket with deckle PR E P A R I N G B B Q S A u c e 1 tbsp dried chilli 2 tbsp dried Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes, serve warm. TO SERVE Use a fork to shred the meat. Serve on a bun with coleslaw and Memphis BBQ sauce or on a plate with coleslaw, baked beans and sauce. removed, trimmed with some fat left on top Dry Rub 1 cup brown sugar 1 tbsp ground cumin 1 tbsp ground coriander seed 2 tbsp garlic salt 2 tbsp onion powder ¼ cup smoked paprika chopped thyme 2 tbsp ground black pepper 1 cup Worcestershire sauce BBQ Sauce • Yeilds 2 Cups • (Serving Size 2 tbsp) 1 cup tomato sauce ¾ cup white vinegar Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp mustard tsp ground red pepper 1 tbsp ground cumin 2 tbsp ground coriander seed 2 tbsp garlic salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp salt Well worth the wait, savour melt-in-the-mouth tenderness combined with a hit of glorious Southern-style smoky BBQ flavours. Dive in and enjoy. Re c i p e b y Caleb Hawkins, Tennessee, U.S.A. RECIPES ◆◆◆ > C H E F’s T ip: This sauce can be prepared, stored and reheated as needed. 13 2 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp onion powder 2 tbsp U S A’ s T o p B a r be c u e B eef H o ts p o ts LA N D O F TH E B B Q 14 I f yo u ’ ve ever wondered about the ◆◆◆ origins of Australia’s most iconic cooking method, you’re in good company. Etymologists widely believe the word barbecue entered the European language over three hundred years ago from the American-Spanish word barbacoa, literally meaning ‘sacred fire pit’. Since then, barbecue techniques have come a long way. Spawning an almost cult-like following and micro-regional variations, the scope of this culinary art form is impressively highlighted in the USA where dueling states covet their own barbecue methods, claiming ownership of “the true barbecue”. In Texas, barbecue means ‘beef ’, while in Memphis it’s all about the ribs. Some states smoke with rubs, others grill with marinades. Take a look at some of the barbecue differences that give rise to specialised festivals and a fierce local passion seldom seen anywhere else. Then, master the art of American-style BBQ smoking (Pg. 8) and try the slow-cooked BBQ brisket recipe, direct from the kitchens of Tennessee (Pg. 12). WA OR HI LAND WY UT CO AZ NM CA CALIFORNIA USA: ID NV California’s barbecue history dates back to the late 18th century when the Spanish influences of pit barbecuing were introduced. Today, their most well-known barbecue cut CA is tri-tip beef rump. AK MT OF THE BBQ WEST TEXAS West Texas barbecues are cooked directly over mesquite wood, giving it a pleasantly bitter taste. Using mostly beef brisket, the traditional tomato-based sauces from this region are spiced with Ancho TX chilli powder. KA N S A S M EM PH I S Kansas City traces its barbecue history back to the early 1900s when restaurateur Henry Perry first started selling his slow-smoked meat wrapped in newspapers. Since then, it’s become home to many barbecue contests and its thick tomato and molasses-based sauce KS has become famous. Memphis is probably best known for its barbecue ribs, distinctive sauces and penchant for slow smoking the best quality meats over hickory or oak to produce falloff-the-bone tenderness. Home of a renowned barbecue ‘world championship’ called Memphis; it claims to have the best barbecue in the world! See Page 12 for our Memphis-Style Barbecued TN Brisket recipe. ND MN VT WI SD MI IA NE IL KS MO WV DC VA KY TN AR NC SC MS TX PA OH IN AL LA GA FL C ENTRA L TEXA S EA ST TEXA S Influenced by German and Czech im migrants who settled here during the 19th Century, Central Texans smoke their beef using mainly oak or pecan wood. Sauce is discouraged and some barbecue restaurants don’t even TX serve it! Using the aromatic hickory or pecan woods, East Texans slowly cook their beef, marinated in sweet and spicy tomato sauce, so it literally falls off TX the bone. USA: LAND OF THE BBQ N JC T DE MD NH MA RI 15 OK NY ME Serves ––––– 1 Rib Eye Steak with Béarnaise B eef P r e p a r ati o n Method: Let the beef reach room temperature, then season with salt, but not pepper as it burns if the grill or pan is too hot. Coat the meat with butter before cooking and baste with butter during the cooking process. Cooking time will depend upon the thickness of your steak and the intensity of heat on your grill. Once cooked to your required degree of doneness, allow the steak to rest for half its cooking time to allow the juices to seep through the meat, then quickly sear, before plating with a little more salt and pepper. Beef 1 x 400g Rib Eye steak Béarnaise 6 egg yolks 100ml vinegar reduction (500ml sherry vinegar, 1 litre water, 1 head garlic, 4 golden shallots, 5 peppercorns, 2 bay leaves) 400ml butter 1 sprig thyme, finely chopped B é a r naise Re c i p e b y Chef Craig Will, Black Cow Bistro, Launceston RECIPES finely grated Tabasco ◆◆◆ > C H E F’S T I P While much has been written about turning a steak once during cooking, I prefer to turn it frequently, keeping the juices towards the steaks centre rather than forcing them out the other side of the steak. 17 Method: To make vinegar reduction, start with sherry vinegar, water, 1 head of garlic chopped in half (skin on), golden shallots chopped in half (skin on), peppercorns and bay leaves. Place in a saucepan, bring to the boil and reduce by half. Cool and store in fridge. Strain reduction before use. This will keep for up to 3 months. To make the béarnaise, start by warming the butter to about 50°C in a double boiler. Whisk egg yolks and vinegar reduction together until thick and creamy and can hold a figure of 8. Remove egg and vinegar mix from heat and slowly add the clarified butter whilst whisking. Once all the butter is added, season with salt and pepper and a dash of Tabasco. Add the grated shallot and thyme. Thin with warm water if it is too thick. 1 small shallot, Serves ––––– 12 6-Hour Braised Brisket with Mac and Cheese BRAISED BRISKET Method: First, place brisket in a deep roasting pan and cover with 2 parts beef stock to 1 part red wine. Add some sautéed celery and chopped carrot to the tray and 4 bay leaves to complete the braising liquid. Season, then cover the top of the tray with foil and slowly braise in a low oven, 130°C for 6 hours. Rotate the tray in the oven after 3 hours to help evenly cook the brisket. After 6 hours, the meat will be sticky and gelatinous. It can either be removed from the liquid and cut to serve straight away, or cooled and refrigerated for later re-heating. We suggest eating straight away! 18 MAC AND CHEESE Method: Reduce the cream by ⅓ on a low heat, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the grated cheeses and stir continuously for 4-5 minutes until melted. Add the cooked elbow pasta and stir until hot. Check seasoning again before spooning into a gratin dish or bowl. Sprinkle with more cheese before placing under the grill to melt the cheese. Braised Brisket 1 x Brisket point end, deckle off Beef stock Red wine Celery 4 bay leaves 6 organic baby carrots, chopped Mac and Cheese Cooked elbow pasta (150g per serve) 200ml cream 150g gruyere cheese, grated 50g parmesan cheese, grated Salt and pepper ◆◆◆ TO SERVE Serve the Mac and Cheese and sautéed organic baby carrots with a little butter on top. Finish the dish with some chopped parsley and some of the braising liquid to serve, and season to taste with salt and pepper. The slow-cooked, deep flavours of beef brisket combined with a gourmet family favourite. Re c i p e b y Chef Andrew Davies, Press* Food & Wine, Adelaide RECIPES Serves ––––– 4 4-Hour Beef Short Rib with Chimichurri B eef R I B S Method: Braise meat in water or beef stock for 4 hours at 150°C. Remove beef from braising liquid, pat dry and brush with a little chimichurri. Heat on a low barbecue until lightly charred and heated to 65°C inside. Chi m iC H URR I Method: Place ingredients together in food processer and blend to a mediumcoarse paste. Season and reserve. TO SERVE Extra virgin olive oil Chimichurri 1 cup flat leaf parsley, picked and washed ½ cup coriander, picked and washed 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 shallots, chopped 60ml extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp red wine vinegar Juice of one lime Pinch of chilli flakes Sea salt, Black pepper, freshly ground ◆◆◆ A hit of green Argentinean Chimichurri brings a fresh twist to fleshy and ultra-tender Butterfield beef spare ribs. Dive in and enjoy. Re c i p e b y Chef Russell Blaikie RECIPES 21 Serve the ribs on platters, family-style, with Chimichurri and micro-herbs drizzled over, roasted heirloom carrots and soft potato purée to accompany. Beef Ribs 4 x 400g Beef Short Ribs B eef f r o m the e d g e o f the w o r l d 22 W ORD S b y Milton and Gaylene de Jonge IN CONVERSATION Cape Grim, TA S M A N I A In C o nve r sati o n : Mi lt o n an d Ga y l ene d e J o n g e farm IN Breed, of course comes into it. We've always had a soft spot for Charolais (originally from France), so we cross them with Murray Greys, an Australian breed known for its good fat coverage, high yield and ability to marble - all of which are key criteria for Cape Grim Beef. Greenham Tasmania has the final say on which product gets the Cape Grim brand once they are processed and MSA graded. All of our herds are raised in a stress-free environment, meeting high quality standards as required by Tasmanian law. You’re guaranteed every cut of Cape Grim beef is going to be tender, juicy and full of flavour and we believe you can achieve all three in a clean, green, stress-free environment. > M E AT S TA N D A R D S AU STR ALIA Cape Grim Beef achieves a 5-star MSA rating and is renowned for its tenderness and highest eating quality. Its natural marbling ensures maximum juiciness. Introduced in 2000, MSA sets the standard for best practice beef production from paddock to plate, ensuring a top quality end product. CONVERSATION 23 cattle for Greenham Tasmania, the company behind the renowned Cape Grim Beef brand. Listed on the menus of the finest restaurants around the world, Cape Grim Beef is a Meat Standards Australia (MSA) graded product, synonymous with impeccable quality. Here, Milton de Jonge talks to Meat & Co about the partnership with Greenham and how farming on the edge of the world ensures a consistently beautiful, quality product. I was born and raised in Stanley, in the North West of Tasmania, right on the edge of Bass Strait. It’s wonderful to be able to live here and farm beef of such great quality. Some call Cape Grim itself ‘the edge of the world’. It’s the most natural pristine environment famous for having the world’s purest air, which in turn means the cleanest natural grasses. My wife Gaylene and I have been on this property for 30 years. We started working with Greenham Tasmania in 2002. The company has a strong commitment to and support for the beef industry. They’re equally supportive of our quality initiatives and are more like partners working alongside us. The secret to great beef is the quality of the pasture and we put considerable effort into maintaining ours so that we continue to produce consistently top quality beef no matter what the season. We also look after our cattle. If you have great feed and treat them right, they’ll do well. 24 ART I S A N D R Y - A G I N G PRODUC E S T H E MO S T D E L I C I OU S F L A V OUR S ARTISAN DRY-AGING A s o ne o f the w o r l d ' s o l d est methods of preserving and tenderising meat, the process of dry-aging was once the primary mode of aging meat before sale and was used across the industry until the 1960s when developments in refrigeration and packaging, including vacuum sealing, became the norm. As our palates have become more attuned to sophisticated tastes, the pursuit of enhanced flavours has seen dry-aging making a welcome comeback. This artisanal method of treating meat is timeconsuming, expensive and requires great patience, yet despite the considerable effort required, it has become the preferred method of aging meat in hatted restaurants and specialty butcher shops. “ D r y- a g in g is l i k e wine m a k in g . W he r e ex p e r ien c e an d a l c he m y c o m e int o p l a y. ” H o w is it d o ne ? > B utcher’s T ips When cooking dry-aged beef we recommend simple cook methods, such as a quick chargrilling, and caution not to salt the meat before-hand as you don't want to draw out any of the remaining moisture. Make sure you don't over-cook it. ARTISAN DRY-AGING 25 Whole or quartered beef is delivered to the restaurant or butcher's shop and hung in a specially designed room, away from other meat and fresh produce. The meat is carefully monitored as correct airflow, temperature and humidity are crucial to the meat's success. The proteins that give the beef 's muscle its structure begin to break down, ensuring the meat tenderises. At the same time, the fats in the meat become aromatic, contributing sweetness to the flesh. While the process sounds straightforward, like winemaking, science and alchemy come into play. Dry-aging techniques vary depending on the desired flavour, and the moisture loss required for tenderising. Some dry-agers age their meat for a month, others for 80 days. The length of time increases not only tenderness, but flavour and each dry-ager determines the perfect length of time for each specific cut of meat. Serves ––––– 8 10 to Panko Crumbed Beef Brisket with Lime MayonnaisE 26 BRISKET Method: Place all ingredients into a braising tray (with the brisket fat side up) and cover with greaseproof paper and foil. Place into a hot 160°C oven and cook for approximately 5 hours until tender. Remove from the oven. Remove the brisket from the liquid and place in a clean tray. Place a heavy weight on top and leave in the fridge overnight. Remove from the fridge and remove the weight. Trim off the fat and cut the brisket into strips about 2cm wide. CRUMB Method: Beat the eggs and milk together. Place the beef strips into the flour and shake off the excess. Place beef strips into the egg and milk mixture. Place the brisket into the Panko breadcrumbs and leave to set before frying. Deep fry until crunchy, and serve with lime mayonnaise. TO SERVE Mix the mayonnaise and the lime zest together. Add salt to taste. Place crumbed brisket in a bowl or plate with the dipping sauce of lime mayonnaise. Serve with extra lime wedges and salt. Perfect as a bar snack, shared plate or kids’ meal. Brisket 1 Brisket, deckle off, approx. 3kg , trimmed but with some fat left on top) Salt and pepper 2 cinnamon sticks 1 star anise 2Lt beef stock 2 bay leaves 1 carrot, chopped 2 stalks of celery, chopped 2 onions, chopped 1 orange, zest only Crumb 5 eggs 200ml milk 500g flour 1kg Panko breadcrumbs Oil for frying Lime Mayonnaise 300g whole egg R eci p e b y Chef Duncan Robertson, River Kwai Thai and Burmese Restaurant, Melbourne RECIPES mayonnaise 2 limes, zested and juiced Pinch of salt ◆◆◆ 2 for more information and recipes visit: the m ain m eal . c o m . au