Top 7 Hawaii Vacation Deals 2010

A
Travel Guide
Top 7 Hawaii Vacation Deals 2010
Sunset Travel Guide
Your Budget,
Your Adventure
3 | Sleep for less:
Tips and strategies for saving on
lodging
5 | The best Hawaii beaches
7 | Hawaii’s hidden tropical gardens
8 | Blue Hawaii:
Choose your favorite Pacific
adventure
10 | Explosive beauty:
Face down a volcano—and live to tell
the tale
12 | Hidden Honolulu: A modern metropolis still in touch
with its Hawaiian soul
14 | Eat like a king (without the royal
price:
Our favorite Hawaiian cheap eats
16 | Highway to heaven:
14
2 Sunset Travel Guide
10
18 | Travel Resources
cover: thomas j. story. this page: thomas j. story (3).
5
Find true bliss in the paradise of Hana
Sunset Travel Guide
Lodging near Waikiki,
Oahu’s most famous
beach, can be a steal.
right Ohana Waikiki
Beachcomber
Consider a
vacation rental
Tips and strategies for saving on lodging
Oahu
Waikiki’s fresh wave of refurbishing includes
two stunningly affordable chain hotels: Aqua
($; aquaresorts.com or 866/406-2782 for specials)
and Ohana ($; ohanahotels.com or 866/9688744). Accommodations are basic and it’s a
walk to the beach, but a hotel room for $100
can’t be beat.
Have to be right by the water? Located in
a quiet spot opposite Kapiolani Park on Sans
3 Sunset Travel Guide
Souci Beach, the New Otani Kaimana Beach
Hotel ($$; kaimana.com) has rooms starting at
$152. Splurge with your savings on dinner at
the hotel’s breezy Hau Tree Lanai restaurant;
be sure to catch the view at sunset.
Even luxury destinations are lowering
prices, albeit sneakily. Keep an eye out for
third-, fifth-, or seventh-night free offers,
which have recently been spotted at the
Sheraton Waikiki (starwoodhotelshawaii.com),
HOTEL RATES
$ inexpensive: starting rate is under $100
$$ moderate: $100-$175
$$$ expensive: $175-$250
$$$$ splurge: $250 and up
the Hilton Hawaiian Village (hilton.com)
and Turtle Bay Resort
(turtlebayresort.com), which is adjacent to
some of the best snorkeling on the North
Shore, was recently advertising a rate of $258
with a fifth night free. Doesn’t sound like a
great bargain, right? But do the math: If you
Thomas j. story, courtesy of ohana resorts
Sleep for less
Renting a house can be the cheapest
way to stay on the Islands. One-bedroom houses with private hot tubs can
go for as little as $100 per night.
(Browse VRBO.com, the biggest
marketplace for rentals.) Couples traveling together and families can find
two-bedroom houses with views for
less than $200. Add savings for cooking
instead of eating out, and the deal
starts to look even sweeter.It’s not for
everyone. By not staying at a hotel,
you’ll often give up daily housekeeping,
a pool, an on-site restaurant, and spa
services. Another possible downside?
You have to be sure about your plans.
Owners tend to run small-time operations, so they generally require hefty
security deposits and payment in
advance, and have stern cancellation
policies. Don’t forget to account for
cleaning fees as well, usually $100 to
$150. Vacation rentals can also be, er,
quaint; think nonmatching furniture,
unfancy bathrooms, and basic kitchens.
Still, if you’re looking for an experience
with aloha—plus extra space, a neighborhood feel, and a relaxed setting—a
vacation rental is hard to beat.
Sunset Travel Guide
Save on airfare
Keauhou Beach Resort
above Canoes Beach,
with top resorts in the
background. left Waimea
Plantation Cottages
Book the cheapest flight-plus-lodging
package you can find through a
bundler such as Pleasant Holidays
(pleasantholidays.com) or Classic Vacations (classicvacations.com). They’ve
purchased seats and rooms in bulk, so
they can spread their costs around.
The price per person (you’ll need at
least two travelers) can be substantially less than buying flights directly
from the airlines, even if you skip the
budget room for a stay someplace
more to your liking. We recently found
a three-night itinerary from San Francisco to Honolulu for $950 for two
people; the same flight purchased
through the airline was listed at $814
per traveler. Similar savings apply to
airfare-plus-rental car packages. Book
through the airlines; the price is often
equal to that of two flights without a
car. Check out the Hawaii Visitors &
Convention Bureau’s list of package
providers (gohawaii.com/value).
on the Kohala Coast can have rates that start
in the $400s.) The Jacaranda Inn ($$;
jacarandainn.com) has eight guest rooms on
the historic grounds of Parker Ranch in
Waimea; it’s a great base for touring the Big
Island’s north country. On the Kona Coast,
Keauhou Beach Resort (keauhoubeachresort.
com) is offering rates from $139 for a partial
oceanview room—including breakfast.
Check bigisland.org for frequently updated
hotel packages and specials.
stay five days, it comes out to $206 per night.
Not bad for top-notch digs.
Check visit-oahu.com to look for current
packages and deals.
Maui
On Maui, where hotel rooms are notoriously
expensive, bargains are relative, but for a
worth-the-bucks splurge, get a fifth night
free (or sixth and seventh nights free) at the
blissfully beachfront Napili Kai Beach
Resort ($$$; napilikai.com). The low-key
Ka‘anapali Beach Hotel (kbhmaui.com or
800/262-8450) is offering a “Sunny Side Up”
promotion for the month of May 2010 where
the room rate is twice the temperature in
Lahaina. If it’s 75 degrees, the room rate is
4 Sunset Travel Guide
$150; you have to mention the promotion by
name when calling to book. On the funky
North Shore, Paia Inn Hotel (paiainn.com)
serves morning muffins and scones from
Anthony’s Coffee Co. The newly reopened
property has boutique amenities (flat-screen
TVs, high threadcount sheets), but the starting rate is $169.
Big Island
Upcountry bed-and-breakfasts, like Hale
Ho‘onanea ($$; houseofrelaxation.com), are
great values; many offer discounts for long
stays. On the island’s best beach, Hapuna
Beach Prince Hotel ($$$; hapunabeachhotel.
com) is offering a third night free with two
nights starting at $299. (Neighboring hotels
The best beachfront values are on Kauai’s
breezy east side. Check out Aston’s recently
remodeled Aloha Beach Hotel and Kauai
Beach at Makaiwa ($ and $$, respectively;
astonhotels.com). Roomy two-bedroom
condos with kitchens are basic but comfortable and clean at low-rise Hanalei Colony
Resort (from $188, with seventh night free
through April 20; mention “KVB winter special”
when booking; two-night minimum; hcr.com or
800/628-3004). And the location, on Kauai’s
laid-back North Shore, is prime beachfront.
Old Hawaii comes to life on Kauai’s west side
at Waimea Plantation Cottages
(waimeaplantation.com). Each of the 61
cottages (with kitchens!) was once the home
of a sugar plantation worker. Snag one from
$172.
clockwise from top: thomas j. story, courtesy of keauhou beach
resort, thomas j. story
Kauai
Sunset Travel Guide
The best
Hawaii beaches
They’re gorgeous, sink-your-toes-in blissful, and all
completely free. This slice of paradise won’t cost you a dime.
View from the Maui
shoreline
The Kama‘ole Beach Parks—numbered I, II,
and III—have long stretches of fine sand
washed by gently lapping wavelets and a
view that includes the serene slopes of Lanai
emerging from a sapphire sea. Need more
reason to go? These south Maui beaches also
offer a variety of activities. Volleyball players
Beach,
Kihei,
spike and dive on the Kama’ole
sand court
at Kama‘ole
Maui above
Beach,
I, where beginning surfers
oftenHamoa
find good
Hana, Maui
swells near the canoe launch. Among the rocky
reefs between Kama‘ole I and Kama‘ole II,
snorkelers search for sea turtles and parrot fish.
Off the broad sandy swath at Kama‘ole III,
swimmers stroke through the calm shallows,
while on the sloping lawn picnickers fire up the
grills as they savor a sunset or watch the colorful kites overhead. In winter, beachgoers at all
three parks keep an eye out for humpback
5 Sunset Travel Guide
whales that migrate to these waters from
Alaska. Where: Off State 31 on S. Kihei Road.
Hamoa Beach, Hana, Maui
Hala trees and swaying palms fringe a halfmoon of salt-and-pepper sand, backed by
black lava cliffs. In summer, the crashing
waves calm down to make the water welcoming for beginning bodysurfers. The three-hour
drive from the touristy southern shore keeps
crowds at bay. Where: About a mile past
“downtown” Hana on the S. Hana Hwy.
‘Aliomanu Beach, Kauai
This beach on Kauai’s northeast shore rarely
appears on tourist maps, so it’s your best bet
for solitude on the Garden Isle. In the snorkeling pool on the north end, you might see a
rare sleeping monk seal. Walk south across a
long stretch of sand to reach a rocky area
that has wonderful tidal shelves. From there,
you can watch the fishermen work their nets
and poles. Where: Go north on State 56 from
Lihu‘e, turn right on the second ‘Aliomanu
Rd. (near milepost 15), and go left on Kalalea
View Dr. Take the second right toward the
ocean (look for the beach access sign); at the
dead end, the parking lot is on the right.
Mahai‘ula Beach, Kona Coast, Big Island
An oasis of brilliant sand set amid miles
and miles of ebony lava fields, the beach
appears to have been dropped in the middle
of nowhere. Its westward orientation delivers some of the best sunsets on the Big
Island, and its out-of-sight location 1 1/2
miles off the main highway keeps away the
tourists. Where: Look for a sign reading
Kekaha Kai State Park about 2 1/2 miles
andrea gomez
Kama‘ole Beach Parks, Kihei,
Maui
Sunset Travel Guide
All is calm on an Oahu
beach left Statue of
Duke Kahanamoku in
Waikiki
midweek, stopping for sandwiches on the
way through Kailua and staying through late
afternoon to watch outrigger canoe club
teams work out. Where: The Pali Highway
from Honolulu becomes Kailua Road in
Kailua; follow it to its end at the park.
Polihale State Park, Kauai
Kaimana (Sans Souci
Beach), Oahu
A beach escape just east of the heart of
Waikiki that nevertheless feels a world
away. Where: In front of the New Otani
Kaimana Beach Hotel, on Kalakaua Ave.
Hapuna Beach State Park,
Big Island
During the summer months, the water off
Hapuna Beach State Park on the Kohala
Coast is typically as calm as a lake’s. Hapuna’s popularity is due in part to shaded grass
and picnic tables that attract visitors and
locals alike. No matter how packed the parking lot is, the big beach seldom seems
crowded, but you can find even more seclu6 Sunset Travel Guide
sion by walking north around the rocks to the
gorgeous arc of sand fronting the Prince
Hotel; look for good snorkeling around the
rocks at the north end of that beach when
the water is calm. Where: Just off State Highway 19, about 31 miles north of Kailua-Kona.
Kailua Beach Park, Oahu
Fringed with trees and backed by steep green
hills, this 1/4-mile beachfront park is part of a
2 1/4-mile crescent of fine white sand that
defines the edge of Kailua Bay. With plenty of
shady grass and picnic facilities, the beach is
popular with locals. By midafternoon on
weekends, the irresistible fragrance of barbecue is wafting over the crowded parking lot.
With sheltered waters and steady trade
winds blowing onshore, this beach is also the
best place in the state to learn how to windsurf, which adds to its weekend popularity.
When it’s practical, plan your beach days for
Sandy Beach Park, Oahu
A worldclass surfing and bodysurfing beach.
Not for novices, but the experts put on quite
a show. Where: 8801 Kalanianaole Hwy.,
about 14 miles east of Waikiki; oceansafety.
soest.hawaii.edu for beach-safety conditions.
Ke’e Beach, Kauai
The end of the road (literally) in Kauai, this
picturesque spot on the North Shore is worth
seeking out because it’s the trailhead for the
unforgettable Kalalau Trail and because it’s
an aquamarine jewel perfect for snorkeling.
Where: The end of State 560 on the North
Shore.
thomas j. story (2)
north of Kona International Airport, off State
19, marking the entrance to the unpaved
beach road.
This plush, 3-mile-long strip of golden sand
at the westernmost edge of the island is
perfect for sunbathing and beach strolls.
You’ll find tents set up on the sand, families
gathered for afternoon picnics, kids splashing
in the water. There’s only one spot where it’s
safe to swim, Queen’s Pond, a tiny pocket of
reef-protected water, calm as a bathtub,
surrounded by crashing waves. Where: End
of 5-mile long dirt road from Mana Village, off
Kaumuali’i Highway (State 50).
Sunset Travel Guide
Kahanu
Garden
Limahuli
Garden
Urban Garden
Center
Near road’s end on
Kauai’s lush North
Shore, stroll
ancient terraces of
taro (above) and
view rare and endangered species such
as Kadua haupuensis.
Closed Sun–Mon; $15;
ntbg.org
This 30-acre educational
center in Pearl City began as
a project of the University of
Hawai‘i at Manoa. Today it
offers innovative gardening
ideas for all. Find 70 types of
plumeria (above), subtropical fruit trees and vines, a
hedge maze, and themed
children’s gardens—pizza
plants, ones with animal
names, Hawaiian alphabet
plants, and more. Free; www.
ctahr.hawaii.edu/ougc
Allerton
Garden
Once the retreat of
Hawaiian Queen
Emma, this Po‘ipu
garden features a
number of stunning outdoor
rooms showcasing
such plants as
heliconia (above).
Sit next to the
stone Buddha and
contemplate the
natural harmony
all around you. $45,
$20 ages 10–12
(younger children
not admitted);
guided tours only
Mon–Sat; call for
Sun; reservations
required; ntbg.org
Hawaii’s hidden
tropical gardens
See botanical treasures in spectacular settings
THESE SIX OUTSTANDING public gardens in Hawaii are “hidden”
not because you can’t find them, but because too few people actually do. They’re not located centrally like Honolulu’s Foster Botanical Garden, yet each of these gems is in itself well worth a trip to
Hawaii—offering not only a good alternative to a day at the beach,
but an unforgettable experience of the Islands’ deep spirit.
Expect to see an abundance of lush, fragrant tropical plants. In
addition, you’ll encounter beautiful and historically rich landscapes, plus specialized collections that conserve Hawaii’s
native plants and the cultural practices that depend on them.
7 Sunset Travel Guide
Most drivers on the
famous Road to
Hana miss the best
stop of all, just 4
miles before Hana.
Walk in the deep
shade of the world’s
largest collection of
breadfruit trees
(above) to
Pi‘ilanihale Heiau,
an ancient stone
temple five stories
high. Stroll the
garden’s edge and
view the sensational
coastline fringed
with pandanus. 10–2
Mon–Fri; $10 for selfguided weekday tour,
$25 for Sat guided
tour; www.ntbg.org Amy B.H. Greenwell
Ethnobotanical
Garden Amateur botanist Amy
Greenwell spent a lifetime
preserving Hawaiian traditions and passed the project
to the Bishop Museum, in
Captain Cook. The garden is
now home to 200 indigenous plants, including hibiscus (below). Closed Sun; $4
donation suggested; bishopmuseum.org/greenwell
Hawaii
Tropical
Botanical
Garden
This natural greenhouse just north of
Hilo teems with
2,000 species of
tropical plants such
as ginger (above),
palms, and orchids.
Location is key
here—right on deep
Onomea Bay. The
blue Pacific surges
against black lava,
and the lush garden
rises above,
anchored by century-old mangoes and
coconuts. Don’t miss
the eight macaws in
a new birdhouse and
three-tiered
Onomea Falls. $15;
hawaiigarden.com
Sunset Travel Guide
Josh Willis below
Bodyboarders off Oahu
Blue
Hawaii
Bodyboard, snorkel, kayak:
Choose your favorite Pacific
adventure
There’s no better place to catch a wave than Hawaii. From the
perfect barrels at Pipeline to the heavy waves at Sandy Beach,
the islands are like a giant amusement park.
The best part? Beginner breaks for surfing are generally
packed, but beginner bodyboarding breaks are seldom shared
by more than 10 people. A perfect wave for novices gently
washes over either soft sand. It should break slowly to the left
or the right—surf that pounds directly onto sand can be fun
when small but dangerous when bigger.
Find your perfect spot, and you’ll find out what expert bodyboarders know: Catching the perfect wave will always leave you
with a smile.
» A rash guard protects your chest
and arms. » Use short swim fins to
kick into waves. » Practice the basics
at beaches with lifeguards. » Before
you drop in, look to make sure no one
else is on the wave.
KAUAI
Brennecke’s Beach Forgiving waves
wash ashore in blue mini tubes at this
sandy cove. poipubeach.org
MAUI
Kama`ole III Beach Park Respectable
swells during the summer months and
can get rideable waves year-round.
co.maui.hi.us
BIG ISLAND
Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area
Plenty of mellow waves in summer.
Go early; parking can be tight.
8 Sunset Travel Guide
michael melford
Bodyboarding basics
Bodyboarding
tips
Sunset Travel Guide
Snorkel your cares away
Hawaii is full of fish you won’t see anywhere
else. Roughly 25 percent of the species that
call the islands their home are endemic,
which means only found there.
Keep an eye out for the most beautiful of
these special species, including the saddle
wrasse, the bluestripe butterfly fish, and the
whitesaddle goatfish. Unlike much of the rest
of the Pacific, Hawaii’s coral reefs are right
along the shoreline—steps from the beach.
In fact, wherever there are rocks in the water
in Hawaii, you’ll most likely find fish, sea
urchins, and coral. You won’t need a boat;
you can just jump in and enjoy.
Serene snorkeling along
Maui’s reef
Snorkeling tips
» Research and reserve trips in
advance. » First timers: Try a short
trip—it’s more tiring than it looks. »
Bring water. Wear a hat, sunscreen,
and SPF-protective clothing. Paddling
gloves prevent blisters. » Make sure
your rental gear is in good condition.
KAUAI
Napali Coast Worth training for. The
17-mile journey along the wild northwestern coast brings you to sea caves
and 3,000-foot cliffs. Outfitters Kauai;
one day tours $225; offered mid-May
through mid-Sep; outfitterskauai.com
oahu
Flat Island and the Mokuluas Spot
birds such as wedge-tailed shearwater
and albatross on this trio of islands,
just off Kailua’s long, white beaches.
Kailua Sailboards & Kayaks; half-day
rentals from $39; guided tours from $119;
kailuasailboards.com
BIG ISLAND
Hana Coast Protected coves, tropical
fish, untrammeled beaches, and no
crowds. Hana-Maui Kayak & Snorkel; twohour guided tours $89; hanabaykayaks.com
9 Sunset Travel Guide
Paddling around protected bays and cozy
coves is an idyllic way to enjoy the magnificent Pacific. The best way for visitors to get
get in the water is a guided trip with an experienced outfitter. The ocean seems almost
alive in Hawaii, and it’s best to navigate with
safety a priority, especially when starting out.
It’s an irresistible feeling, though, once
you’ve gotten your sea-sense, catching the
energy of the ocean. In a spot like Hana Bay
NaPali
Kauai tip of Maui, the pristine coastonCoast,
the eastern
line is amazing and beautiful. It’s not like
anywhere else on Earth, with Haleakala
rising to the sky in the background.
KAUAI
Makua (“Tunnels”) Beach The
horseshoe-shaped reef provides a
respite from rough water on Kauai’s
exposed North Shore. Snorkeling is
safest in summer. No lifeguards.
kauaiexplorer.com
oahu
Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve This
natural aquarium is actually an ancient
volcanic crater. Fringing reefs make
for mellow snorkeling. Get there early;
the parking lot often fills up. closed
Tue; $7.50 nonresidents, residents free;
$1 parking; hanaumabayhawaii.org
BIG ISLAND
Pu`uhonua o Honaunau National
Historical Park Honaunau Bay harbors
an aquatic temple par excellence,
teeming with healthy coral and fish.
$5 per vehicle; nps.gov/puho
andrea M. gomez
Kayaking tips
Kayak over the blue
» Snorkel early, before trade winds
ruffle the surface and stir up sand in
the water. » Avoid snorkeling in waves
higher than 2 feet. » Watch out for
currents whipping around points and
reefs; when in doubt, talk to a lifeguard.
Sunset Travel Guide
Explosive
beauty
I am standing stock-still on the edge of a rain forest,
listening. I’m actually a little scared. As the scarlet honeycreepers whistle around me, I imagine them as trusty guides, like
cartoon bluebirds in a Disney movie. That helps. So what’s my
fear? Is it the dense foliage tangling out before me? The hovering mist? The light rain? Not really. I’m scared of the volcano.
Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is home to Kilauea, the
world’s most active volcano. Multiple earthquakes occur every
day. To vacation on the east side of the Big Island, opposite
10 Sunset Travel Guide
Hike around Hawai‘i
Volcanoes National Park for
a look at Halema‘uma‘u
Crater
thomas j. story
Looking for a thrill? Face down a volcano — and live to tell the tale
Sunset Travel Guide
Kilauea has been steadily
erupting since 1983.
Looking for lava
STAY When you arrive at the Crater
Rim Cabin, chances are a fire will be lit,
the kitchen will be stocked for breakfast, and fresh flowers will greet you.
From $155; two night minimum;
craterrimcabin.com.
GO Stop by contemporary gallery
Volcano Garden Arts, which also rents
out a cottage (from $129). Closed Mon;
19-3834 Old Volcano Rd.;
volcanogardenarts.com
For impressive volcanic activity, try the
Kalapana Lava Viewing Area, in Puna,
at the end of State 130; call for hours
and daily lava update; 808/961-8093
EAT The Kilauea Lodge, a beautifully
renovated YMCA camp from 1938,
serves dinner nightly. $$$; 19-3948 Old
Volcano Rd.; kilauealodge.com For lunch,
grab a salad at Kiawe Kitchen. $;
19-4005 Haunani Rd.; 808/967-7711.
11 Sunset Travel Guide
Kona’s white-sand beaches, is to enter a
world where steam vents cough, solid earth
rumbles, and fiery orange lava pours into the
ocean below.
I start my damp descent on the Kilauea Iki
Trail. Mossy trees feel luxe beneath my palms,
and the sulfur dioxide warnings issued by the
park that morning only add to the adventure.
I bound onto a crusted lava lake bed, a vast
sci-fi landscape of craggy red and purple rocks
with steam vents spewing, feeling entirely lost
in space. In a good way. Guided by stacked
lava-rock cairns, I trek over burgeoning red
lehua blossoms toward the cavelike Thurston
Lava Tube. When I emerge, the rain has let
up. I squint skyward and the iridescence is
like the inside of an abalone shell. There’s a
faint rainbow in the distance. I’m beautiful,
Kilauea is saying. And I can kill you.
Soon enough, I’m back in my car, driving
from the park to the black-rock beaches where
Kilauea’s molten lava flows into the ocean. It
feels counterintuitive to be driving toward an
enormous roiling ball of steam, like the aftermath of an explosion, but that’s what I do,
and then walk out to the farthest point, the
Kalapana Lava Viewing Area. It’s a little disappointing. The sulfur dioxide levels at the end
of State 130 are so high today that it is as
close as I am allowed to get. I want more.
I spend my final night on the island at the
cozy Crater Rim Cabin. It hits me, as I sit in
front of the gas fireplace, that our everyday
lives are full of people wanting to catastrophize even the smallest of transgressions. But
here, in this strange and magical place where
the possibility of catastrophe exists every
day, a disappointment is nothing. You can
always look toward Kilauea, with its lava and
danger, and think: Wow. That is something.
thomas j. story
Volcano Village is 25 miles southwest
of the Hilo airport. Rent a car at the
airport and drive the 45 minutes on
State 11 to the village. From there,
Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park ($10
per vehicle; nps.gov/havo) is 1 mile away.
Sunset Travel Guide
Hidden
Honolulu
A modern metropolis still in touch
with its Hawaiian soul
Glenn Chu
The adventurous foodie
“The first thing I do when I arrive in a city is
go to its markets,” says Glenn Chu, owner
and chef at Indigo, one of the city’s best-regarded restaurants. Past Chinatown’s lei
shops and herbalists and not far from Chu’s
restaurant are markets like no others in the
country. The ocean scents of fresh seafood
mingle with the sweetness of ripe produce.
With tropical fruits like rambutan and dragon
fruit, fish flipping in plastic bins, and a pig’s
head displayed on a counter, the markets are
a cacophony of commerce and movement.
Chu loves it all: “The best way to shop is
with all your senses.” His appreciation for
food was honed at an early age on Oahu, he
says; his grandmother would bake special
rice cookies for her mah-jongg parties. At
Indigo, Chu makes full use of his familial
knowledge of Chinese cuisine. But
he adds modern twists—Mongolian lamb chops with minted
tangerine sauce and cocktails
First Friday Gallery
that lure 30-somethings to his
Walk Gallery hop with
tropical courtyard bar. The scene
the locals. Free; throughis especially lively during the First
out Chinatown;
Friday Gallery Walk—a monthly
firstfridayhawaii.com or
artsdistrict honolulu.com.
gallery open house and celebraLin’s Lei Shop Marvel
tion of Chinatown’s emergence as
at the artistry that
the city’s most vibrant arts district.
Don’t Miss
12 Sunset Travel Guide
goes into creating leis.
1017-A Maunakea St.;
linsleishop.com
Indigo Among our
favorites at Chu’s
restaurant: goat cheese
won tons with four-fruit
sauce. $$$; closed Sun–
Mon; 1121 Nu‘uanu Ave.;
indigo-hawaii.com
Markets At the Oahu
Market (145 N. King St.;
808/841-6924), you’ll find
great fish, including
several grades of ahi. For
produce: Ace Market (145
N. King St.; 808/538-6138).
thomas j. story (3)
FOUR MILLION TRAVELERS visit Honolulu every year, and
most never see the real city. Yes, Waikiki’s fabled beach offers
surf, sun, sand. But elsewhere, in tropical gardens, in Chinatown market stalls, you can encounter what too many tourists
miss: a Pacific crossroads with a flavor you won’t experience in
any other American city.
To show you the best of this new Honolulu, we’ve turned to
three of the city’s best-connected locals: a top chef, a noted
Native Hawaiian artist and activist, and a surfer-author-environmentalist.
Sunset Travel Guide
Don’t Miss
The environmentalist
surfer
Meleanna Alui Meyer
The activist
“It’s a shy city in many ways and not
showy,” says Meleanna Aluli Meyer.
“There’s a deep, enduring quiet and
an understated quality that makes it
a place for anyone who has the curiosity to dig a little, ask a lot of questions, and be open to the answers.
Coming here, you’re not at a destination but at the start of a journey.”
For anyone caught up in the
crowded commercialism of Waikiki,
this characterization of Honolulu
may come as a surprise. But
Meyer—native Hawaiian, artist,
documentary filmmaker, activist,
and educator—believes Honolulu
has retained its Hawaiian essence.
The culture is still very much alive. She appreciates the late afternoon rains that conjure fleeting
rainbows against the green hills
beyond the city’s high-rises, the
poetic street names, and a bouquet
of the tropics. “Every time I get off a
plane and smell that fragrance, I
know I’m home,” she says.
While Honolulu is now Hawaii’s
state capital, it was once the seat of
an independent Hawaiian nation.
Honolulu’s ‘Iolani Palace is the only
onetime royal residence within the
United States—and for Meyer, it’s a
powerful symbol of Hawaiian sovereignty. “When you go to the palace,
you realize that you’re not in
Disneyland,” she says. “You’re in a
different country.”
13 Sunset Travel Guide
‘Iolani Palace
Don’t Miss
Native Books/Na
Mea Hawai‘i Honolulu’s best selection of
island-themed arts,
music, and books. In
Ward Warehouse, 1050
Ala Moana Blvd.;
nativebook shawaii.com
Harold L. Lyon
Arboretum An easy
escape from the urban
into tropical rain
forests above Honolulu. Closed Sun; $5
donation suggested;
3860 Manoa Rd.; hawaii.
edu/lyonarboretum
‘Iolani Palace “A
place to understand a
moment of truth for
Hawaii,” says Meyer.
Closed Sun–Mon;
guided tours $20, admission $6; 364 S. King St.;
iolanipalace.org
Honolulu Academy
of Arts “It’s an
incredible little jewel,”
says Meyer. Closed
Mon; $10; 900 S. Beretania St.; www.honolulu
academy.org
“Honolulu is where you get Hawaii’s
past and future clashing on a daily
basis.” Stuart Holmes Coleman is
sitting in the Sunset Lanai Lounge,
overlooking Kaimana Beach.
Though it’s within sight of Waikiki’s
high-rises, Kaimana feels a world
apart. Here, Honolulu’s shoreline
exhales as it opens to the banyan
trees and greensward of Kapiolani
Park. Palm trees shimmy in the
trade winds, and locals venture out
for open ocean swims. The modest
beach in Diamond Head’s shadow is
a place of refuge on an island that’s
home to nearly three-quarters of
the state’s population.
An instructor at the East-West
Center, a hub for international
research and education, he works
with students from the Asia Pacific
region—a reminder of Honolulu’s
role as bridge between Asia and the
United States.
But Coleman’s deepest connections to Honolulu come from its
ocean. A dedicated surfer, he’s written Eddie Would Go: The Story of
Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero, a biography of the big-wave surfer and
Hawaiian cultural icon. And as vice
chair and board member of Surfrider
Foundation Oahu Chapter, Coleman
works on water-quality and beachaccess issues.
He and his fellow Surfriders are
also working to prevent overdevelopment of Oahu’s coastline. Even in
busy Waikiki, Coleman says, visitors
can feel Honolulu’s ties to the sea.
“The origins of surfing are right
there, and you can surf where
Hawaiians have been surfing for
hundreds of years.”
Canoes Surf Break
Coleman says the
break at Canoes has
“perfect waves for
learning with easy
rentals and good
instructors.” Surfinglesson and board
rental information
available at various
beach locations. In
Waikiki at Kuhio Beach.
Waikiki In a grove of
palms near Canoes,
just off Kalakaua Ave.,
you can hang a lei on a
bronze statue of Duke
Kahanamoku, father
of modern surfing.
Town The American
bistro with changing
art exhibitions is a
favorite in the city’s
Kaimuki neighborhood. $$$; closed Sun;
3435 Waialae Ave.;
townkaimuki.com
thomas j. story (4)
Stuart Holmes Coleman
East-West Center
The center hosts
lectures and performances, and features
an art gallery as well
as a Japanese garden.
Coleman says the
annual East-West Fest
in April is a highlight,
as the center’s
students perform
traditional dances
usually not seen
outside of villages in
Asia. 1601 East-West
Rd.; eastwestcenter.org
Sunset Travel Guide
Tropical fruit is one of the
best bargain snacks
$4 of heaven + a $4 way to tire out
the kids, Oahu
The Dole Plantation is the classic legstretcher on the drive between Waikiki and
the North Shore. Chase your kids around the
labyrinth of native plants, then cool off with a
heavenly Pineapple Dole Whip. You’ll linger
over every sweet and creamy spoonful. Dole
Whip from $4; Pineapple Garden Maze $6, $4
ages 4–12; 64-1550 Kamehameha Hwy./ State 99,
Wahiawa; doleplantation.com
A cafe with buzz, Big Island
At Bayfront Coffee, Kava & Tea Company, try
the French press coffee, gourmet sandwiches, and traditionally prepared kava, a
beverage made from a native root and said to
cause relaxation and mild euphoria. $; closed
Sun; 116 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo; 808/935-1155.
Superb Hawaiian barbecue, Oahu
Don’t miss the roast pork and duck at Nam
Fong. And don’t be discouraged by the line
out front; popularity and quality go hand-inhand. Don’t get there too late: the char siu
sometimes runs out by 11 a.m. $; 1029
Maunakea St., Honolulu; 808/599-5244.
Fresh from the sea, light on the
wallet, Oahu
Our favorite cheap eats, from holes-in-the-wall
to kitchens with wheels
14 Sunset Travel Guide
freshest (and spiciest, if you’re up for it)
shrimp. Grab a stack of napkins and a cold
drink, then park yourself at a picnic table and
start peeling. It’s a messy meal, but you’ll
savor every last drop of buttery garlic sauce
licked from your fingers. $; dozens of trucks
park daily along Kamehameha Hwy./State 83 on
the North Shore.
Friendly goats, creamy cheese,
Maui
For an adventure that won’t leave your feet
sandy, check out Surfing Goat Dairy. Located
thomas j. story
Eat like a king
(without the
royal price)
All around the North Shore, colorfully
painted food trucks dish out the island’s
Sunset Travel Guide
A Hawaiian plate lunch is one
of the best cheap meals
lunch at the concrete tables at this just-offthe-highway joint has a kind of refreshing
aloha that you just can’t find on the mainland. $; 4-4350 Kuhio Hwy/State
56, Anahola; 808/822-9181.
A sweet stop on the road, Maui
You can’t miss the signs advertising the
“world’s best banana bread” as you loop
around the harrowing turns of the West Maui
Highway (Honoapiilani Hwy/State 30
and Kahekili Hwy/ State 340). And indeed, at
Julia’s Best Banana Bread, the $5 loaves of
freshly baked bread, redolent with the scent
of tropical fruits, may just be the best baked
goods you’ve ever purchased from a brightly
painted green roadside stand. Also, don’t
pass up the coconut candy. 7465 Kahekili
Hwy., Wailuku; juliasbananabread.com
Prix fixe for a nice price,
Big Island
Want a luxury meal but a less-than-luxe bill?
Try the Sunset Dinner at Norio’s Japanese
Restaurant & Sushi Bar at the Fairmont
Orchid. It includes an appetizer, sushi
sampler, entrée, and dessert for $39—good
from 5:30 to 9 p.m. Thursday through
Monday. $$$$; 1 N. Kaniku Dr., Kohala Coast;
fairmont.com/orchid or 808/877-7368
Warm, sweet Hawaiian history,
Big Island
A bowl of special saimin—think
Hawaiian ramen—at the James Beard
Foundation–recognized, deceptively
plain restaurant Hamura Saimin is
$6.50. It’s the most filling and delicious
$6.50 you can spend on Kauai. $; 2956
Kress St., Lihue; 808/245-3271.
15 Sunset Travel Guide
A burger joint with an authentic
feel, Kauai
Yeah, at Duane’s Ono Char Burger you may
have to fight for ownership of your crispy
onion rings with a feral chicken. And you may
have to wait while your burger cooks—better
to spend some quality time with your thick,
delicious marionberry shake. An alfresco
The Kona Historical Society demonstrates
Portuguese bread baking (10–1 Thu) in a
wood-fired stone oven. Stop in for a taste of
this sweet treat that’s been baked on the
Islands since Portuguese immigrants arrived
in the late 19th century. Free; at the Kona
Historical Society, 81-6551 Mamalahoa Hwy.,
Kealakekua; konahistorical.org
andrea m. gomez
Oodles and
noodles of
authentic flavor,
Kauai
on the broad, grassy back of Haleakala, the
farm is populated by a herd of charismatic
goats. Check out the chores tour: Who knew
goats lined themselves up in the same order
every day to be milked? Chores tour $12, other
tours from $7, call for schedule; free tastings; 3651
Omaopio Rd., Kula; surfinggoatdairy.com
Sunset Travel Guide
Highway
to Heaven
You drive to Hana on the most beautiful
road in the world. But true bliss comes when
you arrive in this Hawaiian paradise
FROM THE FIRST LIGHT OF MORNING, Hana turns your world upside down.
On the far windward edge of Maui, Hana faces east, so dawn is the show, as if
the day can’t wait to begin. For anyone accustomed to the sundown sea of the
West Coast, there’s a disorienting moment as the clouds over the ocean brighten
with streaks the pinkish shade of guava juice.
The rising sun illuminates a place of inspiring beauty. Mists veil the mountains
and albatross-like frigate birds glide high over the waves. The nighttime chirping
of geckos under the eaves gives way to a mynah bird’s first bossy calls. Palms
along a horse pasture rustle with the morning’s first breeze, the swishing of a
mare’s tail mirroring the movement of the fronds.
With Hana’s beaches, hiking, tropical gardens, and sacred sites, it’s tempting to
skip that first cup of coffee and just get out and explore. But this is Hana, and
rushing just isn’t the point. Long before you reach this onetime domain of the
Maui chiefs, Hana Highway—with its 54 one-lane bridges and slithering 52-mile
course—has already made that message clear.
“Slow down,” the road commands. “You’re going to Hana. You wanted to see
Hawaii, yeah? Well, welcome to the real Hawaii.”
INFO For Hana information, contact the Maui Visitors Bureau (visitmaui.com).
Another source, especially for vacation rentals, is hanamaui.com
16 Sunset Travel Guide
STAY Hana Kai-Maui Resort Condo-style
units, some with Hana Bay views. $$$;
hanakaimaui.com
Hotel Hana-Maui and Honua Spa Relaxed
and private, it’s a Hawaii classic, with cottages
built in the local plantation style. $$$$;
hotelhanamaui.com
eat Hana Ranch Restaurant Burgers and
plate lunches. $$$; 808/248-8255.
Ka‘uiki Hotel Hana-Maui’s main dining room
spotlights local produce and seafood. $$$$;
808/248-8211.
GO Haleakala National Park Its Pipiwai Trail
is an easy 4-mile round-trip hike through
scrubland and a bamboo forest to waterfalls.
$10 per vehicle; off Hana Hwy.; nps.gov/hale
Ono Organic Farms Tours with tastings from
Hana’s cornucopia. Tours 2:30 Mon and Thu
(reservations required); $35; onofarms.com
Palapala Ho‘omau Church Constructed from
limestone coral, the 1857 church with its tidy
steeple has a graceful simplicity that embodies Hana. Aviator Charles Lindbergh is buried
here beneath a Java plum tree. Off Hana Hwy.
at milepost 41, 8 miles south of Hana in Kipahulu.
Wai‘anapanapa State Park Easy coastal
trails, a black-sand beach, and grottolike
caves. Off Hana Hwy. on Honokalani Rd.;
hawaiistateparks.org
thomas j. story
Hanging in Hana
Sunset Travel Guide
Travel
Resources
Find more inspiration for travel in the West
on Sunset.com
Top 20 Romantic Getaways
Hawaii is undeniably one of the most romantic destinations
there is, but the West is full of other perfect places to escape
with your special someone. Check out our favorite vacation
spots for romance, from a Moroccan-themed inn set in Palm
Springs to oceanview villas in Sayulita, Mexico--all under $250.
10 Fabulously Affordable
Vacations
If you’re looking for a vacation that feels like a splurge but
is--gasp!--secretly affordable, you’ll love these 10 ideas from
Sunset. From a solar-powered yurt village on Hawaii’s Big
Island to a hot springs resort in Fairbanks, Alaska, discover
unique trip ideas in some of the West’s most scenic--and
secluded--locales for unbelievably low prices.
www.sunset.com/travel
Sunset.com/Travel
Your ultimate resource for travel in the
West, Sunset Travel is packed with tips
on the best places to go, from National
Parks to urban retreats. Get inspired
with Sunset’s ideas for fun weekend
trips or the ultimate Western vacation.
www.sunset.com/travel
17 Sunset Travel Guide
Top 10 Hideaways
by the Sea
An oceanfront resort in British Columbia’s rainforest, coastal cabins in walking distance of prime Oregon wine
tasting, a secret haven on Catalina-experience these hidden gems and
more.
www.sunset.com/travel/california
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take on
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the West—
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clockwise from left: andrea gomez, thomas j. story (2)
www.sunset.com/travel
Sunset Travel Guide
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18 Sunset Travel Guide