O Scale Trains Magazine

Transcription

O
Scale
Trains
May/June 2006
US $6.95 • Can $8.95
Display until June 30, 2006
u
Celebrating
the art of
1:48 modeling
Issue #26
Celebrating
the art of
1:48 modeling
Issue #26
May/June 2006
Vol. 5 - No. 3
Publisher
Joe Giannovario
[email protected]
Features
4
Art Director
Jaini Giannovario
[email protected]
Editor
Brian Scace
[email protected]
Follow the trees on their way ’round Paul Templar’s On30 logging layout.
15
Customer Service
Spike Beagle
16
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O Scale Trains ISSN 1536-9528
www.oscalemag.com
Published bimonthly (6 times a year) by
O Scale Trains Magazine
PO Box 238, Lionville PA 19353-0238
© 2006 OST All Rights Reserved
Printed in the U.S.A.
Contributors: O Scale Trains welcomes your feature articles,
photos, and drawings. Such material should be sent to the
above address for possible publication. If we accept, you will
be notified immediately. For more information concerning
article preparation guidelines, please send an SASE to the
above address and request our “Guide For Authors” or visit our
website at: www.oscalemag.com.
Cover: Another busy day on Paul Templar’s Cooncreek & Tumbleweeds
RR in Shropshire, England.
Centerspread: “Side Rods Down” New Englanders are proud of their
railroad heritage. Here we see one of their massive Mountain locos
making a brief stop at a Boston & Maine hub in the late 40's. Those
shinny side rods won't stay down long as the engineer has already
signaled the train is about to leave the station! The R1d model was
custom built by Tom Harley and is owned by Brian Scace. The diorama
was built and photographed by K. Jeb Kriigel, Get Real Productions.
OST 2K6 3rd Annual Digital Photo Contest
Try your hand at winning one of this year’s great prizes. It’s free!
Building a Small O Scale Layout — Part 9
Mike Culham finishes the structure he started last issue.
25
Across the Pond
A look at what Jacki Molinaro is doing with Styrene and white metal.
35
2006 O Scale National Convention
A peek at what you’ll see if you visit the NYSME. Photos by Andy Brusgard.
40
Contributors
Ted Byrne
Hobo D. Hirailer
Bobber Gibbs
Jace Kahn
Mike Cougill
Roger C. Parker
Carey Hinch
Neville Rossiter
Converting K-Line Hoppers to 2-Rail
A simple conversion by Ron Morse to fill out your fleet.
18
Advertising Manager
Jeb Kriigel
[email protected]
From the Forest to the Sawmill
Branchline Engine Shed
You’ll need one of these sheds eventually. Tom Houle shows you how he
built his from a J. Harold Giesel plan.
48
Modeling Ground Cover
Our resident finescale modeler, Mike Cougill, discusses this scenery element.
60
O Scale Influences
Joe Fischer is profiled by Brian Scace.
61
O Scale Coaches
Once upon a time, Joe Fischer explained how he built his much soughtafter passenger cars. We bring you that article which is still relevant today.
Departments
11
13
23
26
30
33
38
53
60
67
68
68
70
Easements for the Learning Curve – Brian Scace
The Good Old Days – Jace Kahn
Confessions of a HiRailer – Hobo D. Hirailer
The Art of Finescale – Mike Cougill
Reader Feedback – Letters to the Editor
Narrow Minded – Bobber Gibbs
Traction Action – Roger C. Parker
Product News & Reviews
Modeler’s Shelf–O Scale West Photos
Advertiser Index
Buy-Sell-Trade Ads
Events Listing
Observations – Brian Scace
May/June ’06 - O Scale Trains • From the Forest to the
Sawmill
Photography by Paul Templar
It’s the ‘whimsical wilderness’ part of logging that fascinates so many modelers, myself included. Many extensively
illustrated books are available, and much information can be
found on the Internet to assist research.
Perhaps one of the finest books on the subject, with many
photographs of logging locomotives, is The Locomotive Por-
• O Scale Trains - May/June ’06
traits, by Darius Kinsey. Darius and his wife, Tabitha, spent
the years between 1907 and 1940 traveling all over the Northwest, taking hundreds of photographs. Initially, the images
were captured with his 11” x 14” Empire State camera using
glass plates. In 1914, he started using film. Unfortunately, in
October of 1940, Darius had an accident and was unable to
continue his photography.
As with all logging railroads, each operation will be slightly different in detail, but
the main principle of the production flow
will apply. The process starts with the felling
of the tall timbers and the transportation of
the trees out of the woods to the sawmill.
Here, they will be processed into finished
products to meet the needs of the consumer.
Photos 1 & 2
This is the logger’s campsite with various
camp cars. In this camp there is a kitchen
car and dining car, and a combined tool
car and office, plus a couple of bunk cars.
To the side of the camp cars can be seen a
machine shop, where all the loggers go to
from time to time to get tools sharpened or
equipment welded.
Photos 3 & 4
winch, they could supply power for practically anything. This
picture shows a brand new donkey about to be delivered up
the line. On-site, they were often mounted on wooden skids
and could haul themselves around by the simple tactic of
tying a rope or cable around a tree, then pulling themselves
forwards by winding the winch!
Photo 6
Once loaded, these logs are transported back down the
hillside by rail, sometimes crossing very precarious trestle
bridges and switchbacks. There have been many accidents on
such switchbacks, so care is always taken to transport the logs
safely. Here, a mighty Dunkirk loco is treading gently down
and across the trestle bridge on a seven-percent grade. After
reaching the bottom, the engineer will switch the turnout and
the loco will reverse down the next grade, which is five-percent, holding the skeleton cars in check. .
Photo 7
Deep in the forest, with these enormous trees, can be seen
skeleton log cars full of logs already en route to the sawmill.
In the Photo 4, a train departs, having just finished loading
using a heel boom and donkey engine.
Photo 5
Logging operations used steam donkey engines in abundance. Essentially a vertical boiler, water tank, engine, and
Here’s the biggest workhorse on the Coon Creek & Tumbleweed Springs, a 2-6-6-2T articulated giant. After negotiating the first part of the switchback, she drifts gently down the
five-percent grade heading towards civilization once again.
Photos 8 & 9
May/June ’06 - O Scale Trains • The 2-6-6-2T has finally arrived on level ground and is
striding out for the sawmill. Photo 9 shows her almost at the
sawmill, where the logs will be dumped into the log pond.
Photos 10 & 11
Here, we see another logging site using the “high lead”,
into the log pond.
Photo 13
Here is where the log monkeys do their log-rolling act to
get the logs ready for the sawmill itself. Log monkeys have to
be very careful not to fall into the pond as these logs are very
heavy and could easily crush a man.
Photo 14
With the logs now positioned, the next task is to get them
where logs are transported to the loading area by an overhead
system. The heel boom lifts the logs onto the skeleton cars.
One of the loggers is helping to align the log so it will ride
securely on the car.
Photo 12
While the logger’s camps could be moved to follow the
timber, the sawmill itself was a far more fixed location. Often,
there was more than one line wending its way to this operational hub. The arriving logs were not simply stacked to wait
their turn through the mill, but were off-loaded into a log
pond. With the aid of a donkey engine, the logs are dropped
hauled onto the lander. The moving treads located inside the
grooves of the main support lift the logs out of the pond.
Photos 15 & 16
rolls through it and slides onto a further set of live rolls.
Photo 21
The log has now completed its journey through the debarker and is waiting its turn through the sawmill.
Photo 22
The log has now been attached to the log carriage, which
will take it through the bandsaw.
Once onto the lander, the log is transported along moving
chains and onto the live rolls, which will feed the log through
the de-barker.
Photos 17-20
This de-barker has very sharp teeth and is shown in Photo
17 with the teeth closed. Photo 18 shows the teeth opened,
Photos 23 & 24
Its trip through the bandsaw is now complete, and the log
carriage will return to pick up the next log.
ready to accept the log to be
de-barked before it moves on
into the sawmill. In Photo 19,
the log has now been accepted and is about to be rolled.
At this point, the de-barker starts to revolve and strips off most
of the bark. Photo 20 shows the bark coming off as the log
Photos 25 & 26
May/June ’06 - O Scale Trains • Photo 28
Behind the sawmill, workers clean up the mess left by the
many logs that have passed through.
The freshly cut plank will now be taken through the edger,
which will clean up the sides in preparation for cutting.
Photo 29
Outside, a healthy pile of fresh timber is being stacked,
ready for the customer to arrive and take away his order.
Some planks will go to make houses, some for furniture; even
the stripped bark has value. Whatever the use, there will
always be a need for more in the future.
u
Photo 27
The cut-off saw will cut the plank into various sizes,
depending on what orders are in for the day.
May/June ’06 - O Scale Trains • Need something different?
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The unpainted kit consists of high-quality, no-odor urethane castings for the body,
Red Caboose plastic trucks, and brass & urethane brake components under both
ends of the car. Less decals and couplers.
#19209
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$ 89.95
Bell Crawler - Model 36
Everyone needs several of these mechanical beasts.
Offered with and without the blade, they are perfect as
a load on the flatcar above, carving a road out of the
woods, or hauling logs to the railroad.
These freelanced model kits consists of high-quality,
no-odor urethane castings with brass wire, NS mesh,
decals, and a few other bits. Approx. size as shown scale 20’ long with a 10’-6” wide blade.
#18600 O Scale Crawler 36 w/ Blade
$129.95
#18601 O Scale Crawler 36 w/o Blade
$109.95
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$ 109.95
The Logging Arch is in
production now, but the
model was not ready in
time for an ad photo.
Check our web site!!
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10 • O Scale Trains - May/June ’06
Phone: 304-637-4510
Fax: 304-637-4506
Web: www.btsrr.com
E-Mail: [email protected]
Full Catalog - $5.00
Celebrating over 26 Years of Service since 1979
I’ve been busy, lately, dressing up the basement for the new
railroad. It’s awful hard not to start screwing sticks together, rather than thinking things through and doing some prep work. However, here is where Scace will break ranks with the rest of the
self-anointed, and stand firmly against the onrush of the teeming throng streaming blindly to touch the robes of the so-called
experts who, month after month, flog us down the Gilded Path
to Righteous Layout Design. You know the drill, “Use a linear
track plan, staging yards, DCC with sound, and a formal operating system, all built in a space finished as We tell you! Do this, or
you will be forever sub-standard!” Well, color me “wanting”.
Now, don’t get me wrong, here. The ideas and practices
pushed by the magazines, the NMRA Special Interest Groups
(SIG’s), or the Club Olde Phartz are very worthwhile to consider carefully. My point is that they are just that, and no more.
Those of us who promote ourselves as “experts” (be us authors,
NMRA-types, or magazine editors) are sometimes given to
believing that our Way is the Only Way. My goal here is to get
you to think, rather than to merely accept the “enSIGlical” of the
Body of Experts (by our own admission). Here are a couple of
examples.
Mine being an older house, I thought through the idea of a
new drop-type ceiling. The followers of the Gilded Path know
that leaving uncovered floor joists above is one of the Deadly
Sins. A ceiling looks better and cuts down on the dust falling
on the railroad through the floor above. While thinking this one
over, I laid out a couple pieces of construction paper (one black,
one light-colored) on a table as a test. After a few weeks, the
papers showed a minimum of dust particles filtering down from
above. That didn’t surprise me much, since the flooring on the
main level of the house is all hardwood, laid over tongue-andgroove pine sub-flooring. Older houses are nice, like that; no
plywood, carpet, carpet-pad, and other dust-traps here. The lesson here is to perform this simple test to see how much “snow”
is really falling from the floor above. If the level is unacceptable,
you will do well to do something about it before the benchwork
turns everything into an acrobatic exercise, or before your prize
slobber-bucket disappears into a dust-drift. If you’re lucky, like I
was, you have some options.
Although there was undeniably an appearance benefit to
be gained with a drop ceiling, I chose not to do it (Barricade
the doors and load up ol’ Betsy, Mother! Here comes the SIG
Police!) My basement, like many older houses, only has a sevenfoot ceiling height. Any finished ceiling I put in would have to be
flush to the joists. All the piping and wiring is neatly run between
the joists, with shut-off valves and drain cleanouts easily accessible. Since there was no excessive dust fallout, I didn’t want to
lose the accessibility for pure esthetics, nor would I want that
pretty ceiling to come crashing down on the railroad once one of
those drain-lines springs a leak and soaks ‘er down with, shall we
delicately say, effluvia.
Another enSIGlical calls for finishing the basement, curving
the drywall around the corners and using the walls as backdrops.
Again, worth considering, but rejected in my case. When a
friend of mine sold his house and moved, one of the painful tasks
involved was the removal of his completed railroad. He prepared
his spaces “by the book”, and it was indeed a very inviting and
enjoyable space. As it turned out, his basement suffered an
indignity that re-enforces my not-so-hot opinion of finished basements. A slow leak in a water pipe, between drywall and block,
went unnoticed for perhaps years. One day came the inevitable
catastrophic failure. While the consequences of the failure itself
go without elaboration, the slow leak caused another issue made
apparent when the railroad came down. There was an incredible
amount of mold growing between the drywall and the block.
Since living in a huge high school biology experiment is just not
my thing, but I still wanted the benefits of a backdrop, I chose a
different approach. Rather than the usual “finished basement”
approach, I will be attaching the backdrop to the benchwork
in the same manner as the module guys make scenic dividers.
Again, accessibility and maintainability win out, though this time
as a change in approach rather than a choice between doing
something or not.
Behold! The (Self-Appointed) Oracle Speaks!
The epiphany here is that the John Armstrong “Givens-andDruthers” process, that many of us use to design our trackplans
themselves, works equally well with all decisions we make in
layout design and construction. In our first example, I flouted
the ceiling esthetic “requirement” in favor of the accessibility
and maintainability issues that were more important to me. In
the second example, some thought yielded an adaptation of
the modular free-standing type of backdrop construction while
accommodating my personal concerns about the specifics of my
space, rather than just dry-walling the basement without thinking
things through.
The Givens-and-Druthers process has taken me to several
good decisions, such as the now-completed installation of lots of
fluorescent lighting, each fixture with a mix of daylight spectrum
and cool-white bulbs. The process has also lead me to some
decisions that differ from the norm, such as wide open access
taking a priority over minimal sized aisles with maximum utilization of space for benchwork and track. Personally, I like a little
breathing room and will sacrifice some run-length to get it. Your
goals will be different from mine, and may well be different from
the enSIGlicals that, unfortunately, have taken on the rule of law
in the minds of some. Throw off that yoke, ye peasants. List out
what is important to you (your Druthers), balance it against the
realities you face (your Givens), salt to taste with the experiences
of others (your friends, the Experts of the Gilded Path, the magazines, li’l ol’ me) and screw some sticks together in a manner
that satisfies you. Using G&D can yield solutions for all phases of
basement filling. It’s not just for trackplanning anymore.
If I had accepted the dictates of the Experts of the Gilded Path
as a requirement rather than merely the food for thought that it
is, I wouldn’t be building a railroad in what is really a perfectly
acceptable space. I won’t fall for that one. How about you?
Let’s go Exploring!
Scace’s Parting Salvo
My cordless phone has a button on the base unit. When you
forget where you left the handset last, you push this button and
the handset makes an annoying sound to follow so you can find
it again. I wish my wireless throttles on the railroad had that
feature!
u
May/June ’06 - O Scale Trains • 11
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odel Works
118 Huson Ct. • Plymouth, WI 53073
Phone 920-892-8159
WWW.mulletrivermodelworks.com
Chicago & Northwestern
Caboose
> Laser cut plywood body with working windows
> Full interior with roof ribs and purlins
> Separate doors can be modeled in the open position
> Urethane underframe
> Decals for CNW, CStP M&O, and W&NW
> Three different versions
O Scale
Kit #403004 Late version with no end windows
Kit #403005 Early version with end windows
Kit #403006 Original all wood underframe
$120.00
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12 • O Scale Trains -May/June ’06
Guest columnist:
Bill Culliton
Baldwin Model Locomotive Works was run by Ralph Baldwin
(of Norwalk, Conn.) who was an orthodontist. He was originally
from Norwalk and, when I first met him, I thought his walking
problem had to do with his age. It turned out he was an early
casualty of the automobile. Ralph, his father (who was a doctor
in Norwalk), and a group of other men hired a boat in 1906 to
see an auto race on Long Island (I think it was part of the Glidden tour.) One of the cars left the course and struck Doc. They
brought him back to Norwalk to recover. He attended Norwalk
High School and tells of the kids from Wilton, and towns to the
north that didn’t have secondary schools, coming down by train
on the Danbury branch of the New Haven.
In the '20s he worked as an orthodontist in Spokane, Washington, and told of sometimes driving to Norwalk during vacations.
Part of the route included the Yellowstone Trail, marked by a
splash of yellow paint on a tree or fencepost about every quarter
mile. Ralph also told of fording streams, saying that the key was
to back through. Then the fan would throw the water out through
the radiator, instead of onto the engine shorting out the plugs. At
other times he would come east on the "Olympian" of the Milwaukee Road. He moved back east permanently in 1930 or ‘31. A
friend of long standing, Dave Squires, told me that one of his first
experiences with model railroad construction was building catenary for a Standard Gauge layout he built in the early 1930s.
The O Gauge system he built in the attic of his home in the
late ‘30s and ‘40s was the NEAT (New England Atlantic Terminal).
This layout, with extremely tight radius curves, had a yard with
electrified catenary. I believe there was an article about this layout in Model Railroader in the early 1940s. He, and his pal Alfred
“Zeke” McFaddin, used to take railfanning vacations. After one
such trip he came back and built an eight-car "Canadian" from
aluminum extrusions, filing out all the windows by hand. He was
a member of the Stamford Model Railroad Club, but by the time I
knew him (in the early ‘60s) did not participate in its activities. He
did start making New Haven catenary bridges and catenary for
use at the Stamford club. These only lasted a short time until the
layout changed. I know of two of these bridges, still in existence.
He had a summer place on Franklin Pierce Lake near Hillsboro, New Hampshire, where he had several friends who had an
O Gauge railroad. One of his friends in New Hampshire was also
named Doc Baldwin. He also belonged to a postwar group, the
New England Association of Model Railroaders, which faded out
about 1950.
Several locomotives, listed by Walthers in their post-WWII
catalogs, were made by Baldwin. He made the “B-Lectric” which
had originated with Tom Bedell in Vermont. Baldwin also made
an O Scale GG1 , an EMD E-unit passenger Diesel (in both A and
B versions) and an EMD F-unit (also in both A and B versions). In
about 1950, he added a streamlined Fairbanks Morse switcher.
The B-Lectric was listed in the Walthers catalogs as a New Haven
electric similar to the 0200-series. Kits were offered in two configurations. The most basic version came machined with important holes drilled and tapped, and with minor holes spotted. For
a little more, you could get one with the drive pre-assembled and
run in, wired, and ready
Ralph Baldwin
to run. The body needed
to be assembled. You
could also get a built-up
unpainted locomotive.
For an extra charge,
the locomotive could
be painted. In 1957, a
finished GG-1 would
run $180, which seems
pretty cheap today.
Remember that, in terms
of 2006 dollars, this
would be at least $1800.
Baldwin was also well
known for his Osgood
Bradley (American Flyerstyle) coach kits.
The actual sandcasting was done by Brown
Brothers Foundry in
Stamford. The locomotives were cast in bronze, and the coaches were cast in aluminum. At the time, small foundries would make short runs to fill
voids when large jobs had run out. The assembly work was done
by Baldwin, and Ernie Pollard, in the house on Sherman Court in
Norwalk. I think he did much of the painting, as there was a spray
booth in the basement of his final residence on Camp Street,
along with a fairly complete shop.
I don’t think Walthers handled the cast Osgood Bradley cars,
and possibly Doc only sold them locally. In my 1957 Walthers
catalog, some lightweight car sides made of pressed metal are
shown together with a picture of a New Haven lightweight coach.
These are definitely not the Baldwin aluminum castings, but were
probably Alexander coaches (which, in a 1937 Model Craftsman, were listed at $35). Again, that was a lot of money during
the Depression. Back then, if you had a job that paid 20 bucks a
week, you were comfortable.
I do know that there were some one-shot variations. Doc
talked about building an 0-C-0, what he called the B-class Pennsy
electric switchers. I think he used the six-wheel chassis from the
GG1 as a base. When some of the Osgood Bradley cars were
being cast, three were poured in bronze by mistake. Normally
they were done in aluminum as the bronze cars were too heavy
for operation. Bronze was used for locomotives for traction. Doc
polished one up and donated it to an NMRA unit as the “Baldwin
Award”. I believe this is the car that is shown in the photo.
I don’t think any other cars were made for sale by Baldwin
Model Locomotive Works, even though someone advertised a
metal stock car with a BMLW sticker on the floor. This was probably from Baldwin’s personal collection.
The business was sold to Ken Hyslop, who ran a hobby shop
in Stratford, Conn., sometime before 1964. The Walthers catalog
for that year does not list any locomotives. He used the name
Custom Services and issued Catalog #3 in 1967. This catalog
listed the following locomotives:
• The New Haven 0350 “Flat-bottom”
• An electric freight motor suggested by
New York Central
• Pennsylvania GG-1
• New Haven Electric Switcher (similar
to 0200 series of New Haven)
• EMD E-8 Passenger Diesel
• EMD F-7 Freight Diesel
• Fairbanks Morse 2000 hp Switcher
All these engines came from the Walthers-Baldwin offerings except the first
two. The 0350 and the New York Central
piece probably came to Hyslop from Parmelee & Sturges in New Haven. Hyslop
died in the early 1970s, and Baldwin got
some of the masters back (He still had the
molds for castings for the Osgood Bradley passenger cars.) An ex-IBM salesman
named Martin, from Maryland, tried to reproduce the passenger cars, but an unflattering Model Railroader review (about the
roof being humped) shot this down.
By the time I knew Doc Baldwin (about
1970) he was no longer active in any kind
of manufacture. I believe he died in 1981.
Much of the information in this piece was
furnished by Don Jaycox and David “Diz”
Squires.
u
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Assembled buildings
from any manufacturer’s kit.
Kitbashed, painted and detailed...
“Just Like Real!”
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O SCALE
Trains & More
Buy, Sell, Trade!
www.normsoscale.com
[email protected]
41 Roosevelt Trail, Route
302. S. Casco, ME 04077
Ph: 207-655-2550
Irish Tracklayer
Now available: a rail insulator .010"
thick for code 148 rail, $2.00 inc. S&H.
Check our website for brass steam
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Kit by Banta Modelworks
Model Building Services
Models built by Stu Gralnik
264 Marret Rd • Lexington MA 02421
Ph: 781-860-0554
[email protected]
Under development: a highly detailed
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switch motors. A true plug and play
installation.
WWW.IRISHTRACKLAYER.COM
2682 West Palo Alto Ave
Fresno, CA 93711
June 24 &25, 2006
October 14 & 15, 2006
Maryland State Fairgrounds
Timonium, MD
Hours: Sat 9-4; Sun 10-4
Show Admission: $7 per person
Converting
K-Line
Hoppers
to
2-Rail
Ron Morse
The Lionel car has been repainted Great Northern. The New York Central car is from K-Line.
Notice how closely K-Line has reproduced the Lionel car.
Many of us who are in O Scale 2-Rail, brought up through
the late 1930-1940 timeframe, lusted after the beautiful Lionel
pre-war scale cars. The hopper car was dead on for what it
was intended to be, a scale four-bay hopper.
Today that car demands a high price in the collector market,
so having a string of them is far out of reach for most us. I was
lucky enough to find one several years ago at a swap meet for
$35! It had been repainted and converted to 2-Rail, which is
what I wanted.
We are very lucky today to have the great K-Line cars, a
virtual reproduction of that hopper. Seeing them side-by-side,
one has a hard time telling which one is the Lionel pre-war car
that brings hundreds of dollars and which is the K-Line version
which can be had for $35 or less at swap meets.
Since I am a 2-Rail operator, it was my duty to convert some
for use on my layout! It is a very simple job and can be done
in about half an hour.
The tools needed are a power drill (I use a cordless Black
and Decker), a #48 drill bit, a small Phillips screwdriver, a
small flat-blade screwdriver, some side cutters (to cut the bolts
off) and a pair of tweezers. You’ll also need trucks of your
choice (I used Athearn Bettendorf), some 1/4” square wood,
and some 2-56 bolts and nuts. For couplers, I used the plastic
Kadee #804, since we are dealing with a metal car that may be
coupled to other metal cars.
Begin by removing the three Phillips screws that hold the
end-frames to the body. Remove the K-Line trucks from the
frame ends. Save ‘em, because you can always place these
on your swap meet table and get $10 a pair for them! At this
point, you can hunt up a pair of the K-Line 2-Rail conversion
trucks, or just replace the 3-Rail wheelsets and cut off the KLine couplers. In any case, the end-frames have to be removed
to get the 3-Rail trucks off. If you choose one of the options
using the K-Line trucks, you can skip to the section on installation of the Kadee couplers. In my case, I used the Athearn
trucks because I have a bunch on hand. If you want to replace
The truck is fastened to the wood bolster, then to the end-frame.
A view of the coupler attached to the car with the end of the bolt and nut
showing. This can be painted to match the car to be less noticeable.
the K-Line truck entirely, glue a piece of 1/4” wood, about an
inch long, as a bolster on the frame. After this has dried, drill
a mounting hole into the wood and frame using the #48 drill.
Make sure the hole is centered. Fasten the trucks to the frame
with 2-56 bolts and nuts. Fasten the end-frames to the body
with the two original side screws; do not use the end screw as
this is where we fasten the Kadee couplers.
To install Kadees, re-attach the frame to the body. The
coupler pocket screw (2-56) can now be placed through the
coupler box into the frame and the body of the car; this is why
it’s done with the frame re-installed. Here is the only tricky
part, placing the nut on the end of the screw. A dab of GOO
will help to start the nut and also help to prevent it from coming loose. Speaking of which, I used a combination of GOO
and CA when attaching the wood block to the frame (making
a very strong joint) and I also put a dab of GOO on the coupler box to keep it from shifting. After you are satisfied with
the results you can paint the trucks to match the rest of the car,
or leave them black. The photos should help with this very
simple job.
u
2K6 O Scale Trains
3rd Annual Digital Photo Contest
The Categories
• Steam locomotive
• Diesel locomotive
• Narrow Gauge/Industrial
• Traction (New category this year!)
The Rules
• You may only enter ONE category of the contest
• You may enter a maximum of TWO (2) photos in that
category.
• Image must include O Scale equipment befitting the
category.
• Image must be submitted in digital JPEG format.
• Images must be at least 250 dpi but not more than
300 dpi and at least 4 x 5 inches.
• Image must be emailed to: [email protected]
• All submissions become the property of O Scale
Trains Magazine.
• Images must be submitted by midnight, August 1,
2006
• Winners will be announced and winning images
published in OST Issue #29, Nov/Dec 2006.
Additional Details
• All photos MUST be submitted by email
• Photos DO NOT have to be taken with a digital camera. You may take a photo with a wet-film camera,
scan it into your computer, and then submit it.
• Four winners will be picked by judges in each of the
four categories.
• Prizes
Steam: MTH ICRR 2-8-0, Proto-Scale 3-2
Diesel: Weaver V01000, 2 rail, undec.
NG/Indust.: Bachmann On30 2-8-0
Traction: An unpowered trolley kit from East
Gary Car Co., and a Western Hobbycraft trolley.
Don’t wait! Enter now.
P&D Hobby Shop
31280‑Groesbeck,
Fraser, MI 48026
586-296-6116
Open Mon-Fri 10-8,
Sat 10-6, Sun 12-5
Fax: 586-296-5642
www.pdhobbyshop.com
P&D Hobby F Unit Sale
Model shown is #8001
POWERED F “A” Units: Reg. $350, SALE $289.99
POWERED F “B” Units: Reg. $315, SALE $264.99
#7001 EMD F3-Ph4, F7-Ph1 early , 36" low fans, 36" dynamic brake, 2 portholes, horiz grilles
#8001 EMD F7-Ph1 late, F7-Ph2, 36" low fans, 48" dynamic
brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles (shown above)
#9001 EMD F9, 36" fans, 48" dynamic brake, 2 portholes,
Farr (vert) grilles
#3001 EMD F3-Ph3, F7-Ph1, 36" low fans, 36" dynamic
brake, 3 portholes, horiz grilles
#4001 EMD F7-Ph1 (late), F7-Ph2, F9, 36" low fans, 48"
dynamic brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles
UNPOWERED F “A” Units: Reg. $225, SALE $189.99
UNPOWERED F “B” Units: Reg. $200, SALE $169.99
brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles
Farr (vert) grilles
F Unit “A” Body KITS: reg. $99.95, on sale $82.99
brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles
Farr (vert) grilles
F Unit “B” Body KITS: reg. $94.99, on sale $79.99
All kits include brass etched grills, appropriate detailed
parts, and preformed grab irons for indicated model.
These kits include only the parts above the frame.
Building a Small O Scale Layout
Part Nine
Michael Culham
In Part 8 of this series, I covered how to paint the structure
for the mini-scene on my layout, and how I made the signs for
it. In Photos 1 and 2, you can see that the building has now
ran the back of my modeling knife along the joints in the wood
planks, using a steel ruler as a guide. This pressed the sign down
into the grooves, giving the effect of the sign being painted on
the wall. After this was done I did the weathering.
Weathering
Weathering gives the effect of grime that has built up on a
building for a number of years. This ages a building and makes it
look more realistic. In Photo 4, we have the painted wall ready
1
4
for the first step in the weathering process. Photo 5 shows how I
put a chalk wash on the wall using a charcoal gray color, mixed
with water. The wash settles into the joints and highlights them.
2
been weathered and the signs have been put on. In Photo 3,
the sign has been made to look like it was been painted on the
side of the building. This was done by first gluing the paper sign
on to the wall with white glue. Once the glue had dried I then
5
3
Once the water evaporates, it leaves the chalk behind, giving
a grimy look (Photo 6). I then brush on some chalk powder as
shown in Photo 7. Always work from the top down since, in real
life, the rain will wash any grime down the wall from the top
towards the bottom. Once the walls are painted you can snap
them together, but do not glue them yet. That is how I weather
my buildings. It’s that easy.
One Last Sign
With the weathering done, we still have one more sign to put
on the building. It is the one that hangs out from the front of the
6
7
9
10
top corner of the building, using CA, and bring it to the front
top edge of the sign and attach it with CA. Finally, take it to the
other top corner of the roof and attach it there with CA. This
thread represents the guy wire that helps stabilize the sign.
This completes the last sign, as seen in Photo 11.
8
building in Photo 9. Photo 10 shows the parts needed for this
sign. To do this, I take the two identical signs and glue them,
one on either side of a piece of 0.020” Styrene cut to the same
size as the signs. You then glue two pieces of 0.020” brass rod,
about one and a half inches in length, to the top and bottom
of the sign using CA glue. The ends of the rods should be even
with the front of the sign and extend out the back. Once the
glue has dried, I paint the rods and the edges of the sign with
blue paint. Next, mark on the front of the building where the
rods will attach, and drill two holes for the rods to be inserted.
Glue the sign in place with CA. I then attach a thread from one
11
Roof Details
On the roof, there are a couple of details such as the chimney and a vent pipe. Let’s start with the chimney. First paint
the brick with a reddish brown, then paint a concrete color on
the chimney cap. Once the paint has dried, take some white
first step in making the dock was to cut out a piece of 0.125”
scribed Styrene, 0.040” thick. This was cut in an “L” shape three
inches by three inches, with each leg being one inch wide. This
“L” shape will fit around the corner of the building. I then cut off
a half-inch wide strip from some 0.040” Styrene sheet. From this
strip, cut out four sections for the sides of the dock (Photo 16).
12
13
14
weathering chalk and rub it into
the brick (Photo 12). Then take
your fingertip and rub off the
chalk from the brick surface
(Photo 13). This leaves the chalk
between the bricks creating the
mortar (Photo 14). Once the
chimney is finished, glue it in
place.
The last detail for the roof
is the vent pipe. This is made
using a piece of 0.040” Styrene
tube, about three quarters of
an inch in length. Paint it black
and, once the paint is dry, glue
it to the roof. Now you can
weather the roof with some
chalk powder.
The Foundation
The foundation of the building should be painted with Concrete paint #414317 and weathered once the paint has dried.
With this done, you can glue the walls to the foundation; don’t
forget to glue the corners of the walls together as well. Once the
glue has dried you can snap the roof into place, but do not glue
it, as you will have to remove it in the future.
The Dock
On the back of my building, I wanted to have a loading dock
for shipping and receiving.
Since the door was on the side of the building, I had to have
the dock run down the side and across the back (Photo 15). My
15
16
Glue these in to place, one sixteenth of an inch back from the
edge of the dock, as shown in Photo 17. Use some scrap Styrene
for braces. I then glued a strip of 0.040” Styrene, a quarter of an
17
inch in width, along the top of the sides (Photo 18). The dock
is now ready for painting, but first I made some railings out of
18
19
0.040” Styrene rod and glued them in place. I then painted the
dock with the same colors as the building. Once the paint was
dry, I weathered it. Remember those detail parts that I found
in my parts drawer? I painted them with some white paint and
glued them to the dock. Once this was done I then glued the
dock to the building (Photo 19). I later made some toilet tanks
from some scrap Styrene and glued them to the dock, as well.
There you have it. Our building is complete and ready for the
20
layout (Photo 20).
Although the building is now finished, looking at those large
front windows makes me think that this building needed an
interior. Therefore, in Part 10, I will show you how to make an
interior for this structure (This is why I advised not to glue the
roof on.)
So until next time...Happy modeling.
u
Sumpter
Valley
Depot
East Gary
Car Co.
Dept OST
3828 St. Joseph Ct
Lake Station IN 46405
They’re Back!
135 NW Greeley Avenue,
Bend OR 97701
Former Indianapolis Car Company sides
are now available from new tooling.
Parts #100 & #200
$3.00 each
Specializing in O Scale 2-rail
model trains since 1985
● We buy or consign brass model
collections
● Model reservations gladly
accepted
● Prompt, courteous service
●
Orders under $50 please add $4.50 for postage and
handling. SASE for updated list.
Check our website for latest
O Scale Listings
www.sumptervalley.com
[email protected]
Tel: 541/382-3413
Fax:541/389-7237
Hours:
Mon. thru Fri 8:30 AM - 5PM
and sometimes on Saturdays
Advertise in O Scale Trains! Reach 2-Rail and
3-Rail scale modelers who want what you have to
sell. Contact Jeb Kriigel ([email protected]).
NEW
NYC/MDT
40’ STEEL REEFER
Additional Atlas O Special Runs Coming Soon:
Jersey Central GP-9 • Great Northern steel-rebuilt box car (red)
NYC “Pacemaker” AAR Box Car (black/white logo) • PRR Produce 36’ Wood Reefer
Available in four road numbers,
#8514 (3 Rail), #9514 (2 Rail)
amhobbiesonline.com
PayPal
3-Rail
$55.95*
2-Rail
$58.95*
AM Hobbies
6 Delmar Ridge Drive
Wellsboro, PA 16901
(570) 723-1824 [email protected]
*Shipping:$5.95 for one or two cars; $6.95 for three or four cars
banta modelworks
421 Hopkins Road, Dummerston, VT 05301
or send $7 for a ful color catalogue
we model everything to scale and close
to scale perfection, and then we miss
the mark by using something that is leftover baggage from another time or place
in our modeling, we didn’t accomplish
our goal. As Kramer says, “We stopped
short.” Sometimes it isn’t the plastic figures, although figures are always tough.
Sometimes it is the not-true-to-scale
vehicle that throws the thing off. At other
times it is the buildings or structures, or
even the line poles. Bright colors can
even blow it. Choose wisely! If you are
a realistic modeler you want it to look
real. That is the whole idea. Check it and
recheck it. Check your baggage and don’t
bring anything to your modeling that
doesn’t fit.
That’s Hobo’s tip for this trip. Stay on
board with us because the best is yet to
come.
u
www.bantamodelworks.com
indeed fluctuating. We find that there
is way too much product available. O
Scalers in general are getting older and
slowing down. Hair is thinning and so are
collections. Manufacturers are struggling
to find the minimum numbers required
for new production. “Stay the course”,
Hobo says. We have all seen this before.
The 2-Rail side of the hobby will also survive. O Scale is ALIVE and WELL.
As a Hi-Railer in transition it is easy to
see both sides of the track. Since I am in
transition in my modeling, I try to take the
best of both worlds and incorporate those
things into what I fondly call my hybrid
hobby. I am a model railroader first and
foremost. I am a steam guy. I model those
majestic monsters of the past.
I love the Hi-Rail concept of running
scale-size models through scale-size, realistic looking scenery. I have taken that all
the way to the end of the line, and now
I am looking to see where my modeling
can go next. The logical destination is O
Scale. Realistic modeling, realistic scale
models, and ultra-realistic looking track...
2-Rail of course. It represents the last
frontier for me. My modeling actually has
nowhere else to go. Anything less would
not be challenging, and that is what the
fun is all about.
I recently stopped at a local bookstore to purchase another model magazine. (Hobo reads more model railroad
magazines that just OST.) The scholarly
gentleman behind the counter admired
the cover of my purchase, composed his
thoughts, and then commented, “I have
often wondered about you model train
guys. How can you spend thousands
of dollars on your trains, buildings, and
scenery, and then spoil the whole scene
with those darn plastic looking figures?”
“Some choose poorly”,
was my
response.
As I left the bookstore I could still hear
his words ringing in my ears just like a
locomotive’s bell.
What an observation. The guy was
being very objective. As we model, we
do have choices even though we are
sandwiched between many ideas. But
stop and consider the cashier’s words. If
we have O scale laser cut wood kits, from depots to
residences... check us out on the web at
Check Your Baggage
I am a baby boomer. My generation
is now approaching the “middle ages” of
life. We have worked hard to get where
we are and we are looking forward to the
“golden age”. We have come to realize
that we haven’t solved all of the problems
in the world, but we have made quite an
impact. Our contributions will be remembered... we hope. I am also a member
of the “sandwich generation”, who find
themselves taking care of attention-needy
elderly parents and attention-requiring
offspring who are old enough to leave the
nest, but still like the security of perching at home at least part-time. What we
boomers learned is called responsibility,
and that is what we are all about. We
learned that, through the school of hard
knocks and the academy of applied sciences, one could be successful if one
worked at it.
Like many of my fellow baby boomers
I am also a passionate model railroader.
We have quite literally grown up with
model trains. It is part of our lives. This
hobby provides the outlet for self-expression and the opportunity to be creative.
That is the fun part. This Hobo thinks
the hobby may find itself also in a sort of
“middle ages” stage just like my generation. Of course, we find ourselves also
“sandwiched” between many choices,
scales, and levels. We are pulled in many
directions and down many tracks. As a
Hi-Railer in transition, I have to admit that
many times I feel like my attention in the
hobby is being pushed and pulled like
flotsam and jetsam debris in a strong tide.
Sometimes it seems hard to stay focused.
Sometimes it involves turmoil. My 3-Rail
friends have had their frustrations with all
of the manufacturers’ impending lawsuits
and counter-suits. Some major players
are no longer in the game. Survival of the
fittest seems to have prevailed, although I
think they seem to have done it to themselves. However, the hobby will continue.
My 2-Rail associates face other challenges, both from outside and inside the
hobby. Brass drives the O Scale market.
Those who admire brass have found that
“it ain’t what it used to be!” Values are
Eagle’s Nest
Paint Work — 2 week
delivery possible*
Miniatures
Brass Work — 4 week
delivery possible*
• Custom Painting • Brass Detail Upgrading •
• DCC Installation • Repowering •
• Sound Systems •
Japanese Quality by an American Craftsman
Eagle’s Nest Minatures
Harry A. Hieke, Jr.
[email protected]
856-625-5506
*Ask about our premium payment plan!
Jim Hackworth
Buy⁄Sell⁄Trade
MODEL TRAINS
(and Subsidiary JH Consulting)
2631 Edgevale Road, Columbus OH 43221-1113
Phone:614-4514517 Fax:6144514557
Email: [email protected] • Web: www.jhmtrains.com
WSM PRR Q2, 4-4-6-4, N/P, OB, Excellent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,950.00
WSM PRR J1a, 2-10-4, C/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,750.00
WSM PRR M1, 4-8-2, Kleinschmidt Dr, C/P, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,575.00
USH PRR K4, 4-6-2, Kleinschmidt Dr, C/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,495.00
USH NKP 2-8-4, C/P or N/P OB, ea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,350.00
Weaver Brass WP GS64 4-8-4, F/P, LN, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $795.00
USH C&O 2-8-4, C/P, Runs good, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,375.00
MG NYC J1e, 4-6-4, Nice, N/P, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,275.00
MG NYC J3a, 4-6-4, Nice, N/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,275.00
CB PRR GG1, C/P Tuscan 5-Stripe, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,300.00
USH PRR M1a, 4-8-2, C/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,375.00
PSC #17107-1 Crown Heisler, New OB (#4 of 11) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,795.00
MG B&O 2-8-8-4, C/P, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $2,250.00
USH IHB 0-8-0, LN, OB, Beautiful Paint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $895.00
MG PRR G5 4-6-0, C/P, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1050.00
MG PRR E6 4-4-2, N/P, NOB, Can Motor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,075.00
MG PRR N1 2-10-2 Kleinschimdt drive, C/P, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,795.00
USH NYC H10, 2-8-2, Mint, N/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,475.00
USH PRR K4 4-6-2, C/P, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $950.00
CB PRR T1 4-4-4-4, Kleinschimdt Drive, C/P OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $3,175.00
USH NYC L4b, 4-8-2, Mint, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,250.00
Layaway Available
Consignments
OM BNSF SD70MAC, F/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,875.00
OM N&W C630 High Hood, FM Trucks, New, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,195.00
Weaver PRR M1a, 4-8-2, F/P, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $695.00
USH ATSF 4-8-4, C/P, Wtd, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,595.00
OM PRR PAPBPA Set, Late Run, F/P, New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $3,990.00
MG PRR N5 Caboose, N/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $250.00
GEM PRR A5 0-4-0, runs good, C/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $625.00
SS N&W J 4-8-4 Rebuilt w/Sound, C/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,500.00
Yoder GE 44T, F/P, Not Ltd, New OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $299.00
OM #0133 Gilpin Shay, F/P, New, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,200.00
OM ATSF Erie Built “B” Unit, F/P, New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $899.00
OM LMX B39-8 F/P, LN, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $$995.00
PRB 50' Airslide F/P BN, New, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $295.00
PRB 40' Airslide F/P BN, New, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $295.00
PSC #16145 PRR B6sb, C/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,250.00
PSC PRR N6b, OS Cupola, N/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $295.00
OM #0026 Tri-Level Auto Rack, N/P, LN, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $409.00
PRB #4712D CRR Caboose (ATSF Style), LN, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $295.00
MG PRR N8 Caboose, N/P, NOB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $250.00
Alco PRR N6a, C/P or N/P, each . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $225.00
SEND LSASE FOR LARGE LIST OF MG/USH KTM ITEMS
LSASE for Complete List
Shipping 6% - $6.00 Min., $12.00 Max
Ohio Residents Add 6.75% Sales Tax
Estates⁄Liquidations
Collection Reductions
Across the Pond
Jacky Molinaro, from France, scratchbuilt this 0-6-0T and
sent us these photos. What’s interesting, here, is his choice of
materials. On this side of the puddle, we’re used to locomotives built using brass or diecast metal. In Europe and the UK,
Styrene (often referred to there as “plasticard”), is a common
scratchbuilding medium for locomotives; the results, as in this
case, can be magnificent. I think Styrene, as a locomotive building medium, has been dismissed for too long in the American O
Scale mind. See what you think. -ed
“These are photographs of my new scratchbuilt 0-6-0T in
O Scale, destined to my new French shortline. It represents a
Blanc-Misseron Works (France) locomotive, scratchbuilt on a
ETS 0-6-0T chassis, bought at a big exhibition in England (Guildex), last September. The superstructure was built from Styrene
sheet and tubing. The added items, like buffers, stack, domes,
and smokebox door, are by Roxey Mouldings in the UK [http://
www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/index.htm]. The photos show how I
built it. The model is painted using black and green matte paint
from Humbrol. I’ve added a two men crew inside the cab, as a
final touch of realism. The locomotive took a month to build,
using some old drawings of the prototype.”
u
The Art of Finescale
Michael Cougill
A Riveting Hobby
I have a friend who’s an industrial
salesman for a living. A favorite saying of
his is, “Ninety percent of success is just
showing up.” That’s so true in many areas
of our lives. It’s true in an artistic career
and it’s true in model railroading as well.
I have an addition to my friends'
thought. If ninety percent of success is
just showing up, the other ten percent
is a willingness to try something new.
How often do we get in a rut with our
modeling efforts? How often do we go
dry or lose enthusiasm where a project
is concerned? It happens to all of us; it’s
happened to me more than once. What
might a possible solution be? Try something new that you’ve never done before.
This column is the perfect example.
A few months ago, when Gene Diemling announced his retirement from
writing his column, Joe told us all an
opportunity now existed for someone to
fill the void. He put out a call for finescale/P48 material. As I read those words
I thought, “Why not?” I sent in some
samples of my modeling and writing with
the caveat that I didn’t think I was a columnist. The magazine bought four feature
length articles which will be appearing
this year, including a step-by-step scratchbuilt structure article (the most involved
writing project I’ve ever attempted).
Well, that column idea kept nagging away
in the back of my mind. A face-to-face
meeting with Brian and Joe at an O Scale
meet in Indianapolis last fall resulted in
my saying out loud that I would be willing
to try writing a column and see how it fit.
They were receptive to the idea and here
we are. So far, I’m having a blast.
Here’s another example. For all the
years I’ve been active in the hobby, I’ve
never developed the skill to emboss rivets
for a scratchbuilding project. Think of all
the neat projects that won’t see the light
of day at my workbench if I never learn
this simple skill. Riveting tools abound
from various sources, and a lot of guys
wind up making their own tool to fit their
needs. So what’s my excuse? That final
ten percent, the willingness to just try
something new. There are several freight
cars I want to build, but they will linger
in my imagination until I just sit down
and start practicing making rivets in some
scrap material.
Here’s another example. I’ve never
really developed my skills in metalworking, beyond soldering feeder wires to
the track. The urge to build a locomotive
from scratch has been growing stronger
lately. This is an unlikely desire for someone who can barely solder and who will
probably never be anything more than
wishful thinking. But as I’ve said before,
I like to use the hobby to challenge and
push my skills as a modeler. So why not a
PRR 0-4-0 shifter? What’s so intimidating
about working with brass and other components? Nothing really, just that final ten
percent. The smart plan would be trying
small, simple projects to develop skill
and confidence as I go. Who knows, one
day that Pennsy switcher may start taking
shape on the workbench.
Think about it this way. We get into a
rut with our modeling. We reach a certain
level of skill and become satisfied; too
often, that’s where we stay. It’s the will-
ingness to try something new that encourages a modeler to attempt scenery for the
first time, or a more complex car kit, handlaid track or scratchbuilding. Often, after
we’ve gotten through the opening jitters,
we find out that the new skill isn’t the
brain surgery that we feared it was going
to be. In fact, it’s kind of fun, now that the
enthusiasm is returning once again.
Learning how to use a Northwest
Shortline riveting tool, a pounce wheel,
or figuring out some gizmo of my own
design, isn’t a big deal when you stop to
think it through. Being willing to make
mistakes and push complacency to the far
side of the workbench will serve you well
for the lifetime of enjoyment this hobby
can provide.
So, smile at whatever is smirking in
your face saying, “You don’t know how
to do this.” Smirk back, try it, and see if
the intimidation factor doesn’t quiet down
after a while. The feeling of confidence
and the renewed enjoyment you’re apt to
gain will be riveting.
Best regards,
Mike
u
Ron’s Books
P.O. BOX 714, HARRISON, NY 10528
(914)967-7541 11AM to 10PM EST
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Alco’s FA - Running in the Shadow - Rutherford . . . . . . .55.50
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Narrow Gauge in the Sheepscot Valley Vol 5 s/c . . . . . .32.50
Nar. Ga. in Sherman’s Valley: Bells & Whistles in Old Perry -S/C . . .32.50
New Haven Passenger Trains - Lynch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32.00
New Haven Railroad’s Old Colony Division Vol 2 . . . . . .19.50
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The Northern Pacific in Minnesota - Luecke . . . . . . . . . . .76.00
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Official Locomotive Rosters 2006 Vol 1 or Vol 2 each . . .19.50
Ogden Rails- Strack h/c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49.75
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Old Maud (B&O) - A Life & Times - Ames . . . . . . . . . . . . .56.50
Prototype Railroad Modeling Vol 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27.75
Pullman Std Library V1 Santa Fe -revised and expanded . .50.50
Rails Across New England V1 1989-99 -Maine, NH, VT 36.50
Railroad Cities - Jersey City, NJ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19.50
Railroading in Downtown Chicago 1958-1969 - Olmsted18.50
Rails to Paradise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62.00
Railway Prototype Cyclopedia Vol 13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23.50
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The RGS Story Vol 12 - Locomotives & Rosters . . . . . . .70.50
Rocky Mtn RR Vol 2- Durango to Alamosa & Salida . . .44.50
Santa Fe Chiefs - Yenne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32.00
Santa Fe Facilities in Color Vol 2 - Branches - Stagner . .48.50
Scranton Road - Life & Times of Edward Baker Sturges 19.50
Seaboard Air Line & Family Lines RR 1967-86- Griffin . .32.50
Slow Trains Down South - Daily ‘Cept Sunday - V1 Ferrell . .55.50
SP Vol 32 T & NO C Class 2-8-0 #2703-2760 . . . . . . . . .26.50
Southern Pacific Color Guide to Frt. & Pass. Equip V2 . .48.50
Southern Pacific Color Guide to Frt. & Pass. Equip V3 . .48.50
Southern Pacific Daylight Locomotives - Church . . . . . . .65.50
Southern Pacific Historic Diesels Vol 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30.50
Southern Pacific Passenger Trains Color History . . . . . .32.00
Southern Railway Through Passenger Service in Color 48.00
Stairway to the Stars -Colorado Annual #26 . . . . . . . . . . .41.00
Steel Trails of Hawkeyeland - Iowa - Hofsommer . . . . . .68.50
Still Standing - Railroad Stations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46.00
Sunset Limited - SP RR & the Development of Amer. West .28.50
Texas & New Orleans Color Pictorial - Goen . . . . . . . . . .55.50
The Tootin’ Louie-Hist. Minneapolis & St. Louis RR-S/C 36.50 H/C .69.50
Thunder of Passing-D&RG&Cumbres&Toltec H/C 51.50 S/C . .41.50
Tourist Trains 2006 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18.50
Tracks of the New York Subway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38.00
Trackside Around British Columbia 1966 - 1982 . . . . . . .48.50
Trackside Around Charlottesville, VA 1967-1984 . . . . . .48.50
Trackside Around Duluth 1957-1960 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48.50
Trackside Around Louisville 1948-1958 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48.50
Trackside Around New Jersey 1968-1983 - Yanosey . .48.50
Trackside in the Erie Lackawanna NJ Commuter Zone .48.50
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Trains to Yosemite- Burgess . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61.50
Tri-State Traction-Interurban Trolleys of SW MO, SE KS & NE OK 27.50
Union Pacific Equipment - Reprinted -Kratville . . . . . . . . .45.50
Union Pacific in Southern California 1880-1990 - Duke .47.50
Virginia Railway Depots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25.50
Visalia Electric Railroad - SP’s Orange Grove Route . . .50.50
Western Pacific in Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48.50
Where the Rails Cross- Railroad History of Durand, MI .32.50
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The Public Delivery Track
Clearance & Stock items
Locomotives - 2 rail
Atlas.. Call for special diesel blow-outs
RS-1..Rut, CNJ, NH, RI, AA, LIRR, WT..$249-$309
SD-35..WM, N&W, SOU, CNJ, B&O..$249-$309
GP-35's..GMO, RDG, WM, NKP, PRR, BN..$249-$309
Dash 8's..CSX, NYSW, UP, SP, BNSF..$249-$309
SW's..Raritan..$229.
LV, Reading........$249
CNJ, NYC SW's..$289. Custom Lackawanna..$299
MTH..PRR H-3..$649, K-4..$599 CNJ P-47..$749
Weaver....U25b....PRR, EL, MILW....$189-$199
VO-1000..blowout..B&O, CNJ, GN, LV, WM..$189
RS-11..C&O, DWP, CNW, MEC, PRR, SOU..$199
USRA Light Pacific..WM, N&W, B&M, MEC, MILW..$495
Shaft drive RS-3's, FA/FB's..............$99-$150
TM
Passenger Sets
Golden Gate..P70 4 car set..PRR, LIRR..$359-$379
B70, PB70....& 80' heavyweight sets..........call
Box Cars - 2 rail
Pecos River..NYC, SOU, NKP, WAB, CBQ, SF..$35
Atlas..40' Wood..B&O, C&O, CBQ, CNJ, CNW, Erie
NYC, NW, PRR, D&H, Rdg, WM, others....$40
40' "trainman"..BAR, CNJ, Rdg, ATSF, CBQ, ACL
UP, RI, B&M, GN, LN, NYC, PRR, IC, MEC..$36
50'..MILW, D&H, NYC, MKT, SOU, L&N, NH, WM..$50
53'..Aloha, Purina, B&M, Evans, CNW, FEC..$37
60'..B&O, EL, RG, SOU, N&W, WM, GTW..$35-$45
Weaver..ACL, ACY, BAR, B&O, B&M, CBQ, CIM, CNJ
CN, C&O, CP, CV, CR, D&H, DTSL, EL, GN, IC, MEC,
LV, L&N, MEC, MP, NYC, N&W, NH, NYSW, PC, PHD,
PRR, Rbox, Rutland, ADN, B&H, UP, SF.more..$20-$30
Refrigerator Cars - 2 rail
Weaver/Crown..B&M, BN, CV, CN, NYC, REA,
Whitehouse, Dubuque, Nrn Refrig, Wescott, Hoods
Harding, Whitings, West Indies, Beer Cars, more..$25
Atlas..36' & 40' woodside..Kreys, Kingans, Century,
Robin Hood, Merchants, Nash, Atlas beer, Phoenix,
Eatmor, Selecto, Hardy, Pluto, Nuckolls, more..$49
Erie, NYC, CNW, ATSF, other "good" ones..$65
40' plug door..NH, PRR, WM, WP, DTI, REA
FGE, CNJ, NP, ATSF, NYC, SSW, ART.....$36
Covered Hoppers - 2 rail
Weaver PS-2..BN, CBQ, CNW, CP, CR, CSX, DLW
C&O, EL, LV, NH, NYC, PRR, SLSF, WAB, UP, BNSF
Jack Frost, Bakers Choc., Linde, Imco, more..$20-$25
50' Centerflow or PS-2CD..CR, CP, LV, NYC, PRR, RI,
Rainbow, Dupont, ADM, Amoco, Arco, UP, more..$20-$25
Atlas....Custom Cylindrical..DLW or CNJ..........$45
Cylindrical..WGrace, GN, PRR, WAB, NYC..$35-$40
Airslide..LV, DH, CSX, PRR, Brachs, F'stone..$35-$40
PS-4427..PRR, LV, others..just a few in stock...$50
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hundreds of
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Hopper Cars - 2 rail
Atlas..Composite..B&O, CBQ, Clinchfield, undec..$39
Fishbelly..NS..$37. LV, Reading, CNJ, D&H..$45
H21a..PC blk or ylw..$45. Ore cars..BLE, DMIR, CN..$27
Weaver..2, 3, 4-bay..CBQ, CR, D&H, DLW, Erie, EL, IC,
NH, NYC, NKP, NW, PRR, WM, NYSW, Indiana Power,
CNW, UP, Reading, FEC, Chessie, MStL, more..$20-$30
Tank Cars - 2 rail
Weaver..Jack frost, GULF, BN, Trusweet, ADM, Army
Ethyl, Diamond, Hercules, Bakers, Pennsalt..$25-$30
Atlas..60'..Propane, CNTX, GLNX, ACFX, more..$37-$45
8K..Bakelite, SHPX, Shell, Dow, Phila Quartz..$50-$55
11K..Warren, Sunray, Spencer, Fuelane, Shell, undec..$50
TM
Extra Thick.
Extra Stick.
New Gorilla Tape sticks to things
ordinary tapes simply can’t – metal,
glass, brick, stucco, wood and more.
Flat Cars, Stock Cars
Atlas..Stock..Armour, CNW, B&O, PRR, undec..$30
89' flats..FEC, a few more..$50. TTX Front runner..$40
Weaver..Stock cars..Erie, Rdg, PRR, CP, T&P..$20-$25
Flats..ATSF, D&H, Rdg, Erie, LV, BN, TTX, Army...$25
Gondolas - 2 rail
Atlas..40' composite..PRR, NYC, SOU, SP, B&M..$51
50'..B&O, CNJ, GN, NW, NYC, PRR, Rdg, UP, LV..$36
Wvr..CNJ, PRR, LV, RI, SF, UP, Rdg, NW, SOU..$27
Cabeese - 2 rail, 3 rail scale
Weaver..B&M, CR, NYC, Reading, Chessie, LV, D&H,
Erie, EL, PRR, MMID, Monon, ICG, N&W, more..$25-$40
K-line..Bay wind..$48. MTH N8, N5c, NE'rn..$45-$55
Atlas..CR, Chessie, NKP, RFP, Rutland, GM&O,
DRGW, ATSF, SOO, BN, GN, Shawmut..$45-$65.
e-mail us at [email protected]
PO Box 1035 • Drexel Hill, PA 19026
610-259-4945 • VISA•MC•DISC•AMEX
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Bringing the best sound-equipped model railroading products to your layout.
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o 430 Passenger Body, East Broad Top, with LokSound, On30
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400 Freight Body, Rio Grande Southern #3, with LokSound, On3
403 Freight Body, unlettered, Painted in Silver, with LokSound, On3
409 Freight Body, Rio Grande Southern #3, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On3
412 Freight Body, Unlettered, Painted with Silver, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On3
421 Freight Body, Unlettered, Painted in Silver, with LokSound, On30
435 Freight Body, unlettered, Painted in Silver, NO SOUND /DCC READY, On30
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407 Passenger Body, School Bus, with LokSound, On3
416 Passenger Body, School Bus, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On3
431 Passenger Body, School Bus, with LokSound, On30
445 Passenger Body, School Bus, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On30
o 427 Passenger Body, ATSF, War Bonnet, with LokSound, On30
o 441 Passenger Body, ATSF, War Bonnet, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On30
o 428 Passenger Body, Rio Grande Motor Ways, with LokSound, On30
o 442 Passenger Body, Rio Grande Motor Ways, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On30
o 422 Freight Body, Unlettered, Painted in Black, with LokSound, On30
o 436 Freight Body, unlettered, Painted in Black, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On30
o 446 Sound & DCC upgrade kit for with LokSound decoder and speaker, On30 and On3
404 Passenger Body, Rio Grande Southern #3, with LokSound, On3
408 Passenger Body, Unlettered, Painted in Silver, with LokSound, On3
413 Passenger Body, Rio Grande Southern #3, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On3
417 Passenger Body, Unlettered, Painted in Silver, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On3
426 Passenger Body, Unlettered, Painted in Silver, with LokSound, On30
440 Passenger Body, unlettered, Painted in Silver, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On30
o 429 Passenger Body, California Western, with LokSound, On30
o 443 Passenger Body, California Western, NO SOUND / DCC READY, On30
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$199.99 without Sound
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Precision Craft Models, Inc. • 4 Signal Ave., STE A • Ormond Beach, FL 32174 • Tel: 386.615.1912 • FAX: 386.615.1720
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C e n t r a l ’s L a t e s t R e l e a s e s
GP38-2, GP40-2, SD40-2, SD40T-2 & SD45T-2
GP40-2
The finest in modern O Scale Brass. 2 or 3-Rail operation. Machined
brass frames and fuel tanks, Pittman motor with dual flywheels. Your
choice of gear ratios, wheelsets, detail parts, etc. Custom built to your
specs. Kits $650 - $800. Custom built, painted and lettered $1100
to $1400.
Central Locomotive Works
PO Box 1231 • Hesperia CA 92340
ph 760-244-9222 • fax 760-244-9322
e-mail [email protected]
www.centrallocomotiveworks.com
Stevenson Preservation Lines
O Gauge Kits and Parts from past
Master Modelers
Catalog 2005 Price: $3.00
Baldwin Model Locomotive Works
Lobaugh
Adams & Sons
Lenoir
Kansas City Kit
Hines Lines
Alexander
Pearce Tool Co.
Bob Stevenson, 2326 230th St. Boone, IA 50036
Nickel Plate Models
O Scale models, parts, decals, newsletter for Nickel Plate and related roads.
NKP War Emergency Cabooses
Road Numbers 1343-1362, brass, from Ajin.
Beautiful. Limited run. Unpainted: $279. Factorypainted “High Speed Service”.
$369 each plus $15 shipping. Parts, O5w and
Proto48 trucks also available
NKP 1900 Series Flat Cars
Exclusive from Red Caboose. Painted, six new
numbers, also painted black and unlettered.
Assembled, metal wheels. $45.00 each, plus $7
shipping; $255 for six-car set, plus $20 shipping.
Upcoming Projects
NKP Rider Cars (Converted Boxcars)
NKP/NYC 40 Ton Double Sheathed Box Cars
Brass from Ajin. Limited runs.
NKP/WLE Wood Caboose Kit $105
Exclusive to NPM by Mullet River Model Works
Nickel Plate Hudsons
Coming in brass from Weaver. Reserve now
through Nickel Plate Models for 2006 delivery.
Write, call or email for order form, product list
or NKP O Scale newsletter.
Nickel Plate Models
13732 Lakeside Dr
Clarksville MD 21029
301-854-3200
[email protected]
check our website at trainresource.com
Deichman’s Depot
ATLAS O Scale 2-Rail
0451-1 C&O RSD-4/5 w/DCC
$206.95
7488 C&O USRA Steel Rebuilt Box $46.70
7490 MoPac USRA Steel Rebuilt Box $46.70
7627 Chessie Caboose
$63.70
7632 Gt. Northern Caboose
$62.00
7680 Pitts. & Lake Erie Caboose
$63.70
7743 Mother’s Cocoa 40' Wd Reef
$65.95
9103 Merch. Biscuit 40' Wd Reef
$53.50
9122 Harding Butter 40' Wd Reefer $65.95
9154 Oak Grove Butter 40' Wd Reefer $53.50
9159 Mathieson 40' Wood Reefer
$65.95
9311 TH&B DS Wood Box
$45.00
9505 Bar-Bee 40’ Steel Reefer
$49.25
9660 Shippers Car Line 8K Tank
$50.95
7021/22 #7.5 Turnouts, each
$52.75
7024/25 #5 Trunouts, each
$47.95
S&H $8.00 for 1 car, $9.00 for 2 cars,
$10.00 for 3 or more cars.
NEW CUSTOM RUN
9183 Penn Canning Co-op 40' Wood Reefer
$68.95 plus $8.00 S&H, comes in two #’s.
Due in May 2006. Place your order now!
Deichman’s Depot
110 Ivyside Dr, York PA 17402
Ph: 717-755-1108 • Fax: 717-840-9650
[email protected]
www.deichmansdepot.com
T-BONE MODELS
“O”
Scale
CUSTOM PAINTING & REPAIR
Dealer for Pacific Limited
Sunset & Weaver
T-Bone Models James Christensen
32264 Cleveland
Cottage Grove, OR 97424-9381
email [email protected]
541-942-5237
Send SASE for information
Repairs - Sales - Installations
Standard & Narrow Gauges
Arttista Figures Red Caboose Kits & RTR
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National ‘O’ Scale Convention @ Hilton Hotel
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More Small Locos
I would like to take this opportuniy to
tell you that I am in complete agreement
with your Observations in Issue #24 on
the need for smaller model steam locomotives. It would be nice if such locomotives
could also be offered in kit form. Enough,
already, with these 4-12-2’s and 4-8-8-4’s!
Charles Stuckenborg, NY
NZ Narrow Gauge
Looking at my back issues, O Scale
Trains has not wandered from the high
standards set right from the start. I say
“Bravo!”, all the while being torn between
modelling New Zealand narrow gauge in
1:34 scale, and modelling American O
Scale. Both share the same track gauge, but
due to the difference in scales, the appearance of the ties, etc., is quite different. Still
pondering what to do about that one.
Possibly of interest to American and
Australian modellers, a local manufacturer
has expanded his range of 1:34 finescale
wheels, adding three more stainless steel
loco tyres to his range. These are 1.17”,
1.33” and 1.59” diameter. Tread width is
4.1mm/0.161”, correct for modelling NZ
models in 1:34 scale, which might be a bit
coarse for O Scale. But I suspect that the
type of stainless steel used might be quite
easy to machine off if the O Scaler finds
this unacceptable. Certainly much easier
than trying to machine the whole tire from
scratch, I would think. Contact Graham
Selman at [[email protected]] and he
can send a PDF catalog.
Paul Woods, New Zealand
Thoughts on Layout Designs
I have some “observations” of my own
after reading your Mar/April 06 column
by that name. I am a model railroader dating back to the 1940s and 50s. As an only
child, my father (who had artistic talent)
built a Lionel/Marx train layout for me that
was put up every Christmas. This layout
was a thing to behold with handmade
buildings, flashing lights and crossing
bells, trees, the hum of the motors and the
peculiar smell associated with those AC
powered trains. Having made several overnight train trips in Pullman cars and heard
the mournful whistles at crossings and the
flashing lights and bells clanging in the
dark I was hooked... for life it seems.
As a teenager I was introduced to HO,
again by my father, who I suspect had
a secret love affair with trains himself. I
dabbled in HO for a long time, and built
two layouts which were never finished.
Then, in my late forties, I switched to O
Scale. I built a small layout in a spare 9’ x
10’ bedroom, later moved that to the basement and started over with an aroundthe-walls-and-through-the-middle layout
which never reached completion. Retirement suddenly arrived and, at last, the free
time to devote to finishing this bear in the
basement. Wrong! Instead of doing that,
I moved into a larger house with a much
bigger basement. Out came the ruler and
compass and a flurry of designs followed.
However, before attempting any of these,
it was necessary to negotiate the right-ofway with my life partner. Hmmm! The
largest of the three [designs] received the
ax. I was left with a space 12’6” by 13’ on
one side and 16’ on the opposite side. I
actually planned out a workable loop with
passing sidings and spurs for no less than
three towns, one of which would have a
long yard running down the 16’ side with
engine facilities. Minimum radius was 36
inches. I thought I might be able to get 28-2’s around those curves.
But then reality broke into my dream
world. I realized that, at 67 with some
health problems that might force us
to downsize sooner rather than later, I
needed to build something portable and
modular, not something that would require
a wrecking ball to dismantle. I settled on a
three module design for a small shortline
connecting with a branch of the Pennsy or
B&M. This is a switchback layout inspired
by a design by Chuck Yungkurth ages
ago. It’s periodically rediscovered and
built to completion by modelers who, like
me, come to their senses about the time
and energy required to build a mediumto-large O Scale layout, maintain it, and
finish it. My version of the design utilizes
AtlasO switches, #3’s (I think) and 24”
radius curves for the shortline! Big power
on this layout will be a PRR B6 0-6-0 and
a Wabash Mogul (2-6-0). A PRR A5 (0-40) and a 2-8-2T will complete the steam
roster. Three 44 tonners and 2 SW-9s will
do the Diesel-era work. Down on the
mainline I will be able to run a PRR H10
(2-8-0) and L1 (2-8-2). An RS-1 and E-6
will make the passenger connection for a
gas electric that will squeal around those
branchline tight curves designed for an
earlier-era trolley line.
The three modular units are being built
on hollow core door slabs in the shape of
an inverted U. Each modular unit will be
able to function independently of the others, as well as in combination, so that it
will be possible to adapt to different room
sizes. The minimum space required is 13'
by 32” and expands incrementally to a
maximum size of 16’ x 12.5’ x 13’. Into this
compact package I have nine industries,
three stations, plus two engine house
tracks and a couple of interchange tracks.
All in all, there is a lot in this track plan I
like, even though I had to give up continuous running and larger engines.
I am building it with foam board glued
on top of the door slabs which sit on
some of the former bench work I built
and lugged along when we moved. Come
moving day I can unbolt a few connectors,
tape up switches and wiring, and carry
each section out by myself. Set up can be
equally easy. With door slabs I think it is
possible to use plastic stackable crates for
support and vary the height of the layout
according to your space requirements.
It is tough to downsize prized engines
I have collected over the years, but it
gets easier as I see progress being made
elsewhere. The small shortline operation
allows for unusual combinations of equipment and the inevitable compromises that
prototypical operation on a larger layout
forbid. So shortlines for senior O Scalers
is a way to go. Forget about that ideal of a
full basement full of track and trains. Keep
it short and simple. Enjoy the ride while
you can.
Jean Flynn, Burlington, VT
Small Locos and the CLW 2-8-0
Noting that the Central Locomotive
Works PRR H-10 2-8-0’s can be found
either built or still in kit form even after
many years being out of production, there
are a couple things to beware.
One should make sure it’s all there if in
kit form. If something is missing, you’re up
a tree. In the 60s, when CLW made up the
kits, the drivers had brass centers and, usually, the middle drivers were blind. They
had an open frame motor, too. This continued into the early 70s, so that may give
some indication of when produced.
The last two runs Bob Smith produced
came with a Pittman can motor and drivers with plastic centers. Wipers rubbing
on the back of the tires provided pick up
to the motor from the engine only. That
worked poorly, if at all.
I came up with a solution to drill a #65
hole through the steel tire on one side of
the engine and into the axle near one of
the spokes in the plastic center. Insert a
piece of brass wire from the hole in the
tire, to the axle. Solder it to the tire and file
it smooth. You have now shorted the axle
to the tire so it can pick up electricity from
the rail on one side of the loco. Ground
one motor brush to the engine chassis and
run the other motor brush wire to the tender and you have the same pick-up method used on most model steam locos. Place
the tender “hot” wheels on the opposite
side of the now “hot” loco drivers. Soldering does not melt the plastic driver centers
if done quickly.
The drawbar was usually insulated
from the engine frame, so there should be
no problem there. If it isn’t, it will need to
be insulated so there is no short between
the engine and tender.
The H10 kits came with either “Lines
East” or “Lines West” tenders. The Lines
West was the same as the East except for
an added coal bunker on the top of the
tender.
The method of insulating Kadees from
locos and rolling stock was interesting,
but there’s an easier way that involves no
effort or cost.
Put the plastic (804) coupler in the
metal (805) box. Put the metal (805) coupler in the plastic (804) box. Now you
have two pairs of totally insulated couplers
assembled and they can be put on cars
and locos without fear of shorts, even on
the front of steam locos.
On steam loco pilots or very short cars,
one can use the 806 which is totally insulated since it’s all plastic.
Drill the mounting holes with a #42
or 3/32” drill. Now you can use a 2-56
machine screw or #2 wood screw to
mount the coupler box. These are easier
to come by than either 1-72 or 2 mm
machine screws that normally fit through
the Kadee box holes. For metal floors, use
a 2-56 tap, but 2-56 screws with thread
into plastic by themselves.
Sincerely,
Carl Phillips
BF&M
Baldwin Forge & Machine
Box 5, Baldwin MD 21013
How can we help you? Custom machine
work, 3-R to 2-R conversions for steam,
diesel or electric. Driver castings
machined. General repairs to O Scale locomotives. Call Joe, evenings 7 to 9 PM.
410-592-5275 or [email protected]
Nos. 16001-18500
O SCALE/PROTO 48 • Kit #124/124-P … $49.95
• Based on 1917 prototype built
by Mt. Vernon Car Co.
• Double sheath with Dreadnought ends
• Steel underframe
• Andrews trucks
• Kit includes couplers and decals
Also available –
SACRAMENTO NORTHERN
Boxcar Nos. 2301-2350
Kit #125/125-P … $49.95
� Coming soon – SP Sugar Beet Gondola
FOX HOLLOW MINING Co.
set on flat
surface or
mountain
side, fully
detailed
loading
bays.
KIT #404
First in
a series
of companion
building.
Laser cut wood. Designed for easy assembly.
Footprint: 23"L x 11"W
M DEL TECH, Inc.
for the SERIOUS modeler
7289 WESTFIELD ROAD
X 15"H. MORE INFO CALL MEDINA,
OHIO 44256
PHONE 800 264-9845
AMERICAN "0" SCALE
PROFESSIONAL
SERVICES
Low-cost consignment sales.
Purchase and sell quality “0” Scale brass and custom model trains.
VISA, MasterCard & Lay-a-ways Accepted. Call for Terms.
WE BUY BRASS TRAINS
✰ Estate and collection liquidations
✰ Locating services
✰ Purchases of your new, used & unwanted equipment
✰ Consignment sales
✰ Layout dismantling services
✰ Auction services
✰ Collections Purchased
✰ Cash Paid for new & used trains
Call days or early evenings...
Bill Davis
Email [email protected]
Phone/Fax (262) 560-1619
American “0” Scale Professional Services
PO Box 575
Waukesha, Wl 53187-0575
Narrow Minded
Bobber Gibbs
the same system will be useable with HO, O and Large-Scale
One of the delightful aspects of writing a regular column
equipment.
about my favorite hobby is that I can comment on any prodBachmann Trains On30 2-8-0 Consolidation
ucts that I have seen or purchased. Recently, I’ve received a
The DCC-equipped 2-8-0 Consolidation surprised me in
number of samples of new products to review.
several ways. First of all, it is a fine looking outside-frame
Bachmann Trains E-Z Command DCC System
30” gauge locomotive with a distinctive balloon stack. There
Although I have watched various Digital Command Conare several bags of spare parts that will allow you to choose
trol demonstrations at conventions and train meets, this was
a straight stack, a cowcatcher or switcher beam, spoked or
my first real hands-on experience with DCC. It was very
solid pilot wheels, long or short boiler for oil or coal, plus oil
enlightening, and quite an eye opener. I laid out a big bunch
tank, coal load or wood load for the tender. This Consolidaof E-Z track on the floor, including a couple of turnouts,
tion is a superb runner that provides the dead slow speed that
and within seconds I was operating the DCC-equipped HO
I crave, and has a realistic top speed in either conventional
GP40 that is included with the set (That Geep is destined to
or DCC modes. If you connect the tender to the locomotive
become an On30 railcar in the near future.) Okay, forward,
reverse, headlight on, then off, but not too exciting. It was not in the first hole, the unit will negotiate a 15” radius curve; if
you use the second hole, it will get around a 12” radius curve
until I added another locomotive that the fun really started. I
without touching. It is recommended that a minimum radius
put an On30 Davenport (without DCC) on the track and ran
of 22” be used, however.
it smoothly on Address 10, while the DCC Geep was being
The only negative comment I have is that the couplers are
independently controlled on Address 3. Watching two power
installed at the usual HO height (around 19”) and it will not
units going in opposite directions at different speeds on the
be a simple job to install couplers at the prototypical height
same stretch of track was a real stretch for a guy who has
of 26”. Once again, I call upon all On30 manufacturers to
been using DC cab-control for over 50 years. Just the fact
provide for both coupler heights on all equipment, as Bachthat the headlights could be turned on or off at will, and glow
mann did with their excellent two-bay steel hopper recently.
with constant brightness, was a welcome benefit.
Bachmann Trains On30 Rail Truck
In short order, I purchased three more Davenports, each
This tiny rail truck is also DCC-equipped, and operates
with DCC, and soon learned to control five powered units on
smoothly and slowly. Although it seems to scream “Rio
one “layout”. Although it can be done, it’s not very practical
Grande Southern” and “Galloping Goose”, one could easily
for one person to control more than one or two locomoremove the flatbed and either scratchbuild a box for mail and
tives at one time. It is very convenient, however, to be able
freight or a body with windows for passengers. With the side
to stop a locomotive or train anywhere on a layout and then
panels on the hood open, a realistic engine can be seen with
start up another one without having to use a number of block
a spinning fan. The headlights work, and a red taillight glows
controls. It’s also convenient to couple one locomotive up to
from the rear. An operator is included and a snowplow can
another one then control both as a double-header. The operbe attached or stored as a detail. It is hard not to justify this
ating qualities and simplicity of the system convinced me of
neat model on an On30 layout.
the immediate need for full conversion to DCC, so I ordered
Next issue, I’ll write about my experiences building turntwo C16 steam locomotives with full DCC and sound. That
outs with the Fast Tracks Hand Laying Jig and some of the
was when this system showed its true value, with its ability
interesting products of Tom Thorpe Trains.
to control up to nine powered units with DCC, plus another
Until then, happy trains to you, until we meet again.
locomotive on straight DC. With the constant panting of the
Bobber Gibbs [[email protected]]
u
two steamers, and the ability to ring either bell or blow either
whistle, the “railroad” became alive with sound and
action.
February 16 - 17, 2007, San Francisco, CA area
Additional walk-around companion controllers are
17th Annual O Scale West Meet
LSSAE for information to:
O Scale West, Dept. OSK
supposed to be available soon, to allow two or more
876 Boyce Avenue
Get Started in
Palo Alto, CA 94301-3003
operators (each with separate controllers), to move
July 17 - 23, 2006, Parsippany, NJ
around a layout and control up to ten powered units
2006 O Scale National Convention
2-Rail
Scale
or accessories. The E-Z Command system is rated for
Robert Lavezzi C/O New York Society of Model Engineers
341 Hoboken
Realistic
•
Accurate
•
Affordable
one amp, but a five-amp booster should be available
Carlstadt, NJ 07072
Come
Discover
Modern
O-Scale
Models
September 22 - 23, 2006, Indianapolis, IN area
soon. Keep checking at: [http://www.bachmanntrains.
Indianapolis Midwest "O" Scale Fall Meet
at These 2-Rail O-Scale Meets
com/home-usa/index.html] to see when these new
James Canter, Dept. OSK
1203 Rotherham Lane
add-ons will become available. After I observe multiple
Beech Grove, IN 46107-3323
Visit www.oscalekings.org for links to many 2-rail O-scale sites.
This ad runs twice a year, so check it in 6 months for
operators with multiple controllers operating multiple
October 7 - 8, 2006, Oklahoma City, OK area
Southwest O Scale Meet
meets that have been added or changed dates.
powered units on the same layout, I’ll be able to offer a For an illustrated brochure please send an LSSAE #12 envelope to:
George B. Wallace, Dept. OSK
O
Scale
Kings,
304
Christopher
Place,
Union,
MO
63084-2931.
11937 Stratford Drive
better assessment of this DCC system. At this time, it’s
Oklahoma City, OK 73120
Ad sponsored by O Scale Kings & the 2-rail O scale meets listed at right.
an economical and simple way to get into DCC, and
How To:
THE
WESTERN RESERVE “O” SCALE TRAIN SHOW
CLEVELAND, OHIO
Saturday, November 4, 2006
Admission: $5.00
9:30 am - 2:30 pm
6’ Tables - $35.00
LAKELAND COMMUNITY COLLEGE
I90 and
ST.RT. 306 (S.E. Corner)
Held in the Auxiliary Gym / Athletic Center
24 Hr. Police • Public Welcome • Free Parking • 2-rail “O” scale only • Please no other gauges
SORRY NO PASSES ACCEPTED AT THIS SHOW • THIS SHOW IS NOT AFFILIATED WITH THE WESTERN RESERVE O SCALE COMMITTEE WHO ANNUALLY PUT ON A SIMILAR SHOW
BOB FRIEDEN - 9695 CHILLICOTHE ROAD - KIRTLAND, OHIO 44094 - 440-256-8141 - FAX: 440-256-1749
2006 O Scale National
Photos by Andy Brusgard
Here are a few of the
scenes on the NYSME
layout you will see.
A set of Erie Stillwell commuter
cars rolls out of the coach yard to
be positioned in Jersey City for a
westbound run.
The CNJ Blue Comet, a CNJ camelback, a CNJ Baldwin
double-ender, and an early boxcab (by Fred Icken) are waiting
to head outbound from Jersey City.
An aerial view, looking east, over the Seacacus
freight yard with the roundhouse in the distance.
A Tuscan PRR GG-1 crossing a viaduct on a westbound
approach to Ridgewood Junction.
A city streetcar winds its way through
Jersey City on approach to Union Station.
The “Prospector”, with a set of four F3s at its head, approaches
Middletown. In the background, crossing scratchbuilt bridges, is a
long string of Atlas billboard reefers.
Mar/Apr
May/June’06
’06- -OOScale
ScaleTrains
Trains••35
35
Traction Action
Roger C. Parker
Modeling the Montreal & Southern Counties’ Home Terminal;
Mixing Passenger and Freight Traffic in a Narrow Space
Perhaps I’m prejudiced, owning three Arthur Ford/Gene
Deschenes models of Montreal & Southern Counties prototypes,
but I find the line to be one of the most “model-able” around. The
line used a variety of interurban-scaled passenger and freight rolling stock, running in a variety of urban and rural areas. There were
bridges over major rivers and small wayside stations. The line featured a lot of action, including a variety of train lengths; one, two,
three, and five car trains were common. There were sections of the
line shared with the Central Vermont, and sections of dual-overhead street running shared with local trolleys.
The line’s Montreal terminal (located near the foot of McGill
Street) is a gem, offering tremendous modeling potential. It was a
relatively small station building built in 1909, dwarfed by the Canadian Customs House building, which provides an effective backdrop for the terminal.
Steam Railroad Interchange
Both freight and passenger trains shared the six stub-end tracks
of the Montreal terminal. In addition to street loading, there were
three stub-end tracks for passengers, plus a three-track interchange
yard for freight cars. Arriving and departing single- and multi-car
passenger trains in the foreground will form a pleasing contrast to
freight cars awaiting pickup by the Grand Trunk Railway (i.e., Canadian National) on the interchange tracks.
The station permits a lot of action in a small space. The Grand
Trunk’s steam switcher drops off and picks up interchange freight
cars in the background, the M&SC’s multi-car trains interurbansized passenger cars arrive and depart, and smaller local trolleys
pass on the street.
Setting
The Montreal terminal is not the typical “flat” terminal. There
were some subtle changes in elevation between the foreground
passenger tracks and the background freight interchange tracks.
These elevation changes, enhanced by the Customs House building
overlooking the terminal, would provide a great way to showcase
your rolling stock as trains await departure.
Flexibility
Your model of the Montreal & Southern Counties terminal can
be as simple or as elaborate as time and available space dictate. If
space is available, you can model the entire terminal, including the
surrounding loop track. This scenario would permit your street-running trolleys to pass static trains awaiting departure.
On the other hand, if space is limited, you could simply do a
head-on model of the street and terminal tracks, and omit the loop
around the terminal. Combined with modeling the Customs House
building as a backdrop, this option would simplify construction
and reduce the depth needed by between 18” and 24”. Either way,
no complex or special trackwork, such as slip switches, would be
needed.
Documentation
There are several photographs of the Montreal and Southern
Counties Montreal terminal in Anthony Clegg and Omer Lavallee’s
classic Catenary Through the Counties. There are also track plans of
the station as planned, and as built.
The front cover of J.R. Thomas Grumley’s recent Montreal &
Southern Counties Railway Co. contains a color cover of the terminal that shows the trains, the setting, and the slight difference in
elevation of the passenger and freight tracks.
u
C OM M O N
STREET
Custom Building, Repair & Painting Services Available
Buy-Sell-Trade, Consignments-Appraisals, eBay Sales Website: www.alleghenyscale.com • Email: [email protected]
470 Schooley’s Mountain Road, Suite 8-117, Hackettstown, New Jersey 07840 • Voice - (908) 684-2070 • Fax - (908) 684-8911
Steam Locomotives
WS C&O T1 2-10-4 UP New ....................................................................................................$1,995.00
PSC D&RGW L-132 2-8-8-2 FP New, Black Boiler No. 3861 . .............................................$3,850.00
ORI GN R2 2-8-8-2 UP New, Vestibule Cab ...........................................................................$2,350.00
Weaver NH I5 4-6-4 FP New, Late Version, Streamlined . ......................................................$925.00
PSC NYC F-12 4-6-0 FP New, 5000 Gallon Tender ...............................................................$1,295.00
SS NYC K-5 Pacific UP L/N . ......................................................................................................$775.00
WS PRR J1a 2-10-4 UP New . ..................................................................................................$1,995.00
Key PRR J1a 2-10-4 FP New, 2 Available, w and w/o Antenna ............................................$2,795.00
USH PRR K4 4-6-2 CP L/N, Correct Boiler .............................................................................1,095.00
USH PRR K4 4-6-2 CP Good, Early Run ..................................................................................$600.00
PSC PRR K4 4-6-2 Standard UP New. Prewar, 130P75 tender ............................................$1,150.00
PSC PRR K4 4-6-2 Modernized FP L/N, Can Motor, 110P75 tender ..................................$1,150.00
OMI PRR M1b 4-8-2 Modernized FP L/N .............................................................................$1,250.00
PSC SP AC-12 Crown 2-8-8-2 FP New, No. 4290 ...................................................................$4,995.00
SS 3rd SP F3 2-10-2 FP New, 2 Rail ........................................................................................$1,195.00
USH SP MT-3 4-8-2 CP Mint, Never Assembled ....................................................................$1,250.00
USH SP MT-4 4-8-2 CP New, Weathered . ..............................................................................$1,595.00
GPM SP S-12, S-14 0-6-0 Switchers FP New, Eight Versions . ................................................ Reserve
Kohs UP 9000 Series 4-12-2 FP New, No. 9051 . .....................................................................$3,900.00
WS UP Big Boy 4-8-8-4 UP New, Late Run ............................................................................$2,595.00
OMI UP FEF-1 4-8-4 CP New, Coal Version, No. 809 ...........................................................$1,545.00
Key UP FEF-2 4-8-4 UP New, Coal Version, Rare - 1 of 10 . .................................................$2,650.00
OMI UP Unstreamlined 4-6-2 CP New, Added Detail, Coal Version, No. 2888 . .................$1,495.00
OMI WM I-2 Decapod 2-10-0 CP New ..................................................................................$2,195.00
Diesel Locomotives
Key AT&SF EMD E8 A-B FP New, 1st Run, Warbonnet . ....................................................$2,695.00
OMI AT&SF SD75M FP New, Warbonnet .............................................................................$2,200.00
C&LS C&O ALCO RSD-12 CP L/N, 2 Available, No. 6702, No. 6705 ................................$1,095.00
OMI DL&W EMD FT A-B UP New . ......................................................................................$1,350.00
BLW D&RGW 2 Car Prospector Set FP L/N . .......................................................................$1,425.00
RYM GE 44 Ton Diesel Switcher UP New, Phase IV ................................................................$300.00
CNJB LIRR B1 Electric Switchers, Pair CP EX, No Box, LIRR Version, Nos, 334-335 ......$595.00
OMI N&W C36-7 UP New ..........................................................................................................$825.00
Key NYC EMD F7 A-B FP New, 1st Run, Lightning Stripe .................................................$2,195.00
Key NYC ALCO PA-PB FP New, Lightning Stripe . .............................................................$2,550.00
OMI NYC FM H-12-44 FP New, Lightning Stripe ................................................................$1,245.00
Key PRR ALCO PA-PB FP New, Tuscan 5 stripe . ................................................................$2,450.00
Key PRR EMD F3 A Unit FP New, Last run, Brunswick Freight ........................................$1,150.00
Key PRR EMD F7 A-B FP New, 1st run, Brunswick Freight ...............................................$2,000.00
Atlas PRR FM Erie Built A-B FP New, 2nd Run, Passenger version . ....................................$725.00
OMI PRR P5a Modified Electric CP EX, No Box, No. 4248 ...................................................$695.00
Key SP ALCO PA-PB FP New, Daylight . ...............................................................................$2,550.00
Key SP EMD E7 A-B FP New, 1st Run, Daylight . .................................................................$2,395.00
Key SP EMD E9 A-A FP New, 1st Run, Black Widow ..........................................................$2,395.00
Key UP EMD E9 A-B FP New, 1st Run . .................................................................................$2,195.00
Key UP EMD F7 A-B FP L/N, 1st Run . ..................................................................................$1,895.00
Other
PSC Railway Express 50’ Express Reefer UP New, PSC No. 16123 ........................................$275.00
PSC Pullman Troop Kitchen Car UP New, PSC 16333 ............................................................$350.00
PSC PRR R50b Express Reefer UP New ...................................................................................$335.00
W&R NP 24 Ft. Wood Caboose FP New, Full Interior, Several Versions ...............................$375.00
Grabowski PRR N5c Cabin Car UP New, W/Antenna . ...........................................................$250.00
OMI Baldwin Scale Test Car UP New . ......................................................................................$200.00
USH NKP Offset Side Twin Hopper FP EX, Clemens Paint . ..................................................$145.00
PSC N&W 70 Ton H4 Triple Hopper CP New ..........................................................................$325.00
PLTD P&LE - NYC USRA Design Steel Box Car UP New, PL-1600 . ....................................$350.00
PSC PRR H21a Quad Hopper UP New .....................................................................................$150.00
PSC PRR GLca Fishbelly Hopper CP EX, Clemens Paint ......................................................$165.00
PLTD PRR H22a Quad Hopper UP New, 1 of 60 . ....................................................................$260.00
OMI PRR H31c Twin Hopper CP EX, Clemens Paint .............................................................$200.00
PRB SP Greenville 70’ Gondola FP New, Waffle Side ..............................................................$250.00
OMI Ogle Coaling Tower UP New .............................................................................................$695.00
Hotchkiss Clear Case Display Cases New, Many Styles - Sizes ....................................................Call
Branchline Engine Shed
Tom Houle
Years ago I found the inspiration for this diminutive engine
shed in the July, 1952, issue of Model Railroader. This article
titled “Short-Line Engine Terminal” was authored by J. Harold
Geissel and featured text, sketches, and plans for a complete
branchline steam loco service plant. Among the structures was
this 60’ engine shed. I have no idea if there was a prototype, but
it was so neat and compact I filed the article away until recently
when I finally built the darn thing to protect my Soo 2-8-0 from
the inclement Wisconsin weather. Mr. Geissel’s drawing showed
a structure with 12” square beam interior framing, clad with 12”
board-and-batten siding. There was no information given on the
rafter framing. I replicated the timber framing with 1/4” square
basswood. I didn’t include rafter framing or interior detail, which
really makes no difference since the roof isn’t removable.
If you enjoy building kit structures, but haven’t yet taken the
plunge into scratchbuilding structures, then this project just might
be the perfect starting point. You can extend and/or widen the
facility to suit your own iron horses. I built my structure with
Northeastern Scale Lumber basswood sheet and strip, and Midwest Products plywood. You could also build it in Evergreen
Styrene and add one of their ribbed steel roofs. A Plastruct corrugated steel roof would also be appropriate. I used Plastruct roofing on my Soo sandhouse located right next to the engine shed.
You can also use individual boards and omit the batten strips. If I
went this route, I’d use 1/32” x 1/4” basswood strips and stain each
board with AIM Quick Age before I attached it to the framing.
I began construction by pinning pre-cut lengths of 1/4” square
basswood right over the sidewall plans. Put a sheet of ceiling tile
beneath the wall plan, then cover the drawing with a sheet of
waxed paper. This will allow you to push pins into the tile to hold
the basswood strips in place while the glue cures. You can use
white or yellow glue for the framing. I built the two sidewalls right
on top of each other to ensure they were identical. This is an old
stick-and-tissue model airplane trick. Don’t forget to add the 1/4”
x 3/4” corner braces. These angles stiffen the wall framing joints
until you add the siding.
While the framing joints were curing, I cut a sufficient amount
of Northeastern Scale Lumber board-and-batten sheet siding into
four-inch lengths to cover the sidewalls. I also cut several longer
pieces for the end-walls. These do not go onto the end-walls until
after the four walls are erected. I butt-glued the siding pieces
into a single length long enough to completely cover each sidewall. I did so before attaching the siding to the framing. This step
allows cleaner siding butt joints. I arranged two siding pieces to
be butt-glued, making sure the edge of the siding with no batten
strip mated with the edge of the siding with a batten strip. Using
masking tape, I tightly taped the outside face of the siding joint,
then opened the taped joint and applied a thin bead of white glue
to the exposed edges. Lay the assembled pieces flat and place
weights on it overnight to ensure a nice flat length of siding. I
joined the end-wall siding pieces the same way.
When the sidewall siding joints had cured, I cut the openings for the Grandt Line windows and door. My drawing shows
the actual window and door opening dimensions. Alter them as
needed if you use different windows and door. I cut these openings before I attached the siding to the sidewall framing. It’s much
easier to do this on the flat than when the siding is attached to
the structure. You’ll have to trim away a bit of the batten strips to
allow the windows and door to fit flush to the siding.
Using white glue, I attached the glued-up lengths of boardand-batten siding to the sidewall 1/4” square framing. I arranged
the siding so that it was glued flush with the top 1/4” square frame
member. This should leave 1/8” of the 1/4” square bottom framing exposed to represent the foundation face. See Photo 1 for this
detail. To prevent curled siding, I weighted the sidewalls and let
them cure overnight before I assembled them into a structure.
The walls are erected by cutting five 1/4” square horizontal
crossmembers, all to the same length, and then white-gluing
them between the sidewalls. As shown in Photo 2, two 1/4”
square crossmembers are installed at the opposite door’s edge.
Two more crossmembers are installed at the tops of the walls and
one more at the top of the door end. There is no crossmember
at the bottom of the door end. I used a square to ensure the four
walls were plumb and the four corners were square.
Four 1/4” basswood sheet faux roof trusses are added next
(Photo 3). At this juncture, if you wish, you can omit the sheet
trusses and substitute a 1/16” x 1/4” ridgepole and 1/16” x 1/8”
rafters. Only do this if you intend to have a removable roof.
1
4
assembly. My door drawing will provide clearance for Code 100
rail. The exterior door faces are simple vertical boards with no
bracing. I checked the fit of the doors, then framed the interior
face of the door opening with 1/32” x 1/8” basswood strips laid
flat.
2
I butt-glued board-and-batten siding for both end-walls and
left the siding oversized. I traced the end-wall peaked outlines
onto the assembled siding. Next, I laid out the rear wall window
opening and the front double-door opening on the interior faces
of the siding. I cut these openings and the final siding outlines.
Be sure to leave 1/8” of the 1/4” square bottom framing exposed
5
3
for the foundation to show. The rear wall siding is attached now
as shown in Photo 3. I didn’t attach the siding to the double-door
end until after the doors were added.
My shed doors consist of a 1/32” Northeastern Scale Lumber
plywood core faced on both sides with Northeastern’s 1/32” thick
x 1/8” scribed basswood sheet. This sandwich construction (as
shown in Photos 5 and 6) provides working doors that may be a
bit thicker than the prototype, but they shouldn’t warp. The doors
need to clear the rails, so check your rail height before final door
6
The doors are hinged with Grandt Line #3524 hinges. They
really work, and allow the doors to be removed for repair or
replacement. To ensure that the door hinges were aligned with
their hinge posts, I threaded three hinge straps and three shortened hinge post straps onto a length of 0.020” brass wire that was
longer than the door height. I made up two of these hinge sets,
one for each door, and made sure each hinge post was located
under its corresponding hinge strap.
Next, I shimmed the interior faces of the siding so that the
exterior door faces were flush with the siding. I taped the doors
into the opening, then laid the end-wall on a flat surface with the
exterior facing up. I carefully taped the two brass hinge wires in
place, ensuring the wires ran vertically and parallel to the door
frame.
I glued the brass wires into the hinge posts with minute applications of CA glue. Do not glue the hinge straps yet. Keep the
hinge straps away when you glue the wire to the hinge posts.
When the glue had cured, I slid each hinge strap into place
directly above its respective hinge post and glued the hinges to
the doors with minute applications of CA glue. When I was sure
no glue had wicked into the hinges, I cut the brass wires 1/16”
above each hinge. Your doors should now open and close. I
added a strip of 1/16” square basswood to the inside top of the
door to prevent the doors from swinging inward. The finished
end-wall was then glued to the end-wall framing.
As shown in Photo 6, in lieu of a ridge pole and to provide
more roof gluing surface, I inserted paired lengths of 1/8” x 1/4”
basswood strip between the roof trusses. The tops of these strips
were beveled to meet at the roof peak. I added similar strips of
basswood at the tops of the sides to provide additional gluing surface for the roof.
A privy was added next. Since Wisconsin winters get pretty
cold, I attached the privy to the sidewall of the shed. At least the
crews won’t have to walk so far on those snowy winter nights.
In warmer climes, you might want to spot the privy further way
from the shed. The privy is built from the same siding as used on
the shed. A scrap of 1/16” thick 1/6” scribed basswood roofs the
privy. A piece of 1/16” scribed basswood makes up the door. See
Photo 7 for privy details.
I built the louvered cupola next. In the good old days, the
cupola acted as a ventilator to help release locomotive exhaust
gases and smoke. It probably also cooled the shed during the
summer months. After I’d drawn the cupola outlines to match
Harold Geissel’s drawing, I decided to widen it and add some
length. My drawing shows Geissel’s original dimensions.
Take a look at Photos 8-11 to see how I built my cupola. I
began construction by cutting 12 louvers (six per side) from 1/32”
7
8
9
10
11
x 1/8” basswood strip. The louvers fit into angular notches cut
into strips of 1/16” x 1/8” basswood strip. The notches are spaced
at 1/8” intervals and are 1/32” wide by 1/32” deep. I left a couple
of inches of extra length at each end of the notched strips. These
served as handles to tape down while I dropped in the louvers.
Two parallel lines drawn on a sheet of paper ensured the notched
strips were parallel to each other and the notches were aligned.
For clarity, see the louver pictures. The louvers are held in place
with slow-setting CA glue.
The louver sub-assemblies were glued to the inside faces of
the 1/16” sheet cupola sidewalls. Make sure your louvers are
aligned to the sidewall openings. The louvers are a bit of extra
work, but well worth the effort when you‘re finished. I trimmed
the excess notched louver strip material away after the louvers
were attached. The finished sidewalls of the cupola are then
glued to the end-walls. I added 1/8” square reinforcing strips to
the four corners. Beveled 1/16” x 1/8” ridgepole strips and 1/16”
basswood sheet roof panels complete the cupola.
My smokejack is scaled to Harold Geissel’s drawing. I made
the four sides from Northeastern 1/32” plywood. The wire is
0.020” brass and the cap is carved basswood. I mounted the
smokejack assembly on a stick, and then sprayed it with a couple
of coats of Floquil Primer to hide the wood grain and make it
resemble sheet iron. A couple of brushed on coats of Floquil
Engine Black finished off the smokejack. See Photo 12 for the finished jack.
Before adding the shed roof panels, I sprayed the shed interior
and inside faces of the shed doors with Floquil Gray-Blue Primer.
The exterior walls, cupola walls, and door exteriors were brushpainted with Delta Ceramcoat Brown Iron Oxide acrylic paint.
This paint goes on beautifully over bare basswood right out of the
bottle. Primer isn’t required. I like the way it soaks into basswood,
I cut my roof panels from Midwest Products 1/16” birch aircraft plywood (Photo 13). 1/16” thick basswood might work, but
I was concerned about the roof overhangs possibly warping over
time. 1/16” ply won’t do that. The 1/16” roof thickness essentially
replicates boxed eaves and eliminates the need for those pesky
exposed rafter extensions. If you prefer the look of exposed rafters, cut your roof from 1/32” ply and add 1/16” x 1/8” faux rafters
on 1/2” (24” scale) centers. I beveled the two roof panels for a
good fit where they met at the ridgepole. At this point, the cupola
and smokejack are glued to the bare plywood roof. It’s a little
more work, but it looks better when the roofing butts up to these
items rather than going beneath them. After all, it’s how the real
roofers do it.
I brush-coated the undersides and edges of the eaves with
Delta Ceramcoat Brown Iron Oxide acrylic. It’s easier to paint the
eaves before you add the roofing.
Now, we need to decide what sort of roofing we’ll use. I chose
36” (scale) asphalt roll roofing. Evergreen rib-seamed steel roofing, Plastruct’s corrugated sheet, 9” tabbed shingles, or a cedar
shake roof would be appropriate. Whatever roofing you select,
be sure to lay out spacing lines to guide your roofing before you
glue the roof panels to the shed. The lines can be seen in Photo
13. I drew lines the length of the roof for 36” (3/4”) roll roofing.
The first line is drawn 3/4” up from the eaves. Successive lines are
drawn 5/8” apart. The roof panels were glued to the shed with
Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue.
Some people use 3/4” wide masking tape to simulate roll roofing. I’ve tried it, but I don’t care for the way masking tape overlaps. This tape is too thin to suit me and the overlaps tend to be
too apparent. I cut 180-grit waterproof sandpaper (The color isn’t
important.) into 3/4” wide strips. I attached the strips to the roof
panels with Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue. White or yellow glue
will also work, but I hesitate to use these glues on thin plywood
surfaces. My experience has been thin ply- or basswood will
warp while these glues are setting. Aleen’s doesn’t seem to cause
this problem. It works well for wood-to-paper joints, dries clear,
and is available in most craft stores.
As you apply each strip of sandpaper, the glue will cause the
12
though you do have to make sure it’s evenly applied and brushed
out. It dries nearly flat and accepts oversprays of Testors Dull
Cote. The door hinges and clasps can be brush painted with Floquil solvent Old Silver or left painted the same color as the doors.
13
Note: Drawings not to scale. All dimensions shown are in real inches
sandpaper to curl. I correct the curl
by applying strips of masking tape to
hold the roofing down until the glue
cures. The tape readily pulls away
from the sandpaper after the glue has
set. I capped the ridge with a 1/2”
wide strip of sandpaper creased into
a “V” shape. I let the roof sit for a day
to let the glue thoroughly cure, then
brushed-coated the raw sandpaper
with two applications of thinned
Floquil Engine Black. An overspray
of Testors Dull Cote sealed and flattened the roofing.
The Grandt Line #3602 door and
#3714 windows were sprayed with
a can of Ace Hardware dark red
primer, a color I really like for its
railroad sort of look. I dislike glazing
windows. Accurately cutting all those
sash panes is difficult at best. I wondered if there was a better way. Happily, I discovered the laser-cut line of
Grandt Line window glazings from
Stevens Creek Models. You can visit
them at their web site [http://www.
hon3.com/] to view their line of HO
and O Scale Grandt Line window
glazing sets. My glazing fit perfectly. I
held it in place with dots of Aleene’s
Original Tacky Glue. R/C airplane
canopy glue or liquid plastic cement
will also work. The windows and
door are held in place with minimal
applications of slow-setting CA glue.
Having never built a wooden
ladder, and not knowing of any
that were commercially available, I
decided to try building a 20’ ladder
to stand against or hang on the shed
wall. Such ladders were kept on hand
to enable quick access to the roof if
it caught fire from errant smoke stack
sparks, a fairly common occurrence
in the days of steam. See Photo 14 for
my first attempt at building a ladder.
I cut my ladder legs from 1/32”
x 1/16” basswood strips. The rungs
are 0.035” Evergreen Styrene rod.
I taped the two legs together, and
then drilled 0.035” holes through
both legs at 1/4” intervals. I left quite
a bit of extra wood at both ends of
the legs so I could tape the ends to a
board. I inserted 3/4” lengths of the
Styrene rod through the legs. I then
spread the ladder legs to achieve an
angled taper, wide at the bottom and
narrower at the top of the ladder.
When I was satisfied the legs were
straight and true (you could impart
a slightly concave arc to each leg),
I taped the ladder assembly to the
board and wicked a minute amount
of CA glue into each rung joint. The
extra Styrene rod was carefully cut off with an X-Acto
knife and the legs lightly
block sanded. This project
only took me a couple of
hours. I must say I like the
way it looks. Now that I
know how to build a wooden
ladder, next time I’m gonna
try an extension ladder. An
aluminum ladder could be
built up using Styrene strip
and rod.
My engine shed is now
hard at work housing the
2-8-0 that occasionally
spends a night after going
through service. The time has
yet to come when this wooden shed will be sacrificed to
progress. For now, my shed is
frozen in time; it’s always the
long hot summer of 1953 on
my Soo branch line layout. u
Bill of Materials
Northeastern Scale Lumber
1/16" Board-and-Batten Siding
1/8" Angle
1/16" Sheet
1/16" x 1/8" Strip
1/32" x 1/8" Strip
1/8" Square
1/4" Square
1/8" x 1/4" Strip
Grandt Line
#3524 Hinges
#3602 Door
#3714 Windows
Midwest Products
1/16" Birch Aircraft
Plywood
Evergreen Styrene
0.035" Rod
Miscellaneous
Delta Ceramcoat Brown Iron
Oxide Acrylic Paint
Floquil Engine Black
Ace Hardware Red Oxide
Primer
180-grit Waterproof Sandpaper
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phone 408-866-1727
fax to 408-866-5674
www.3rdrail.com
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MODELING GROUND COVER
MIKE COUGILL
The ground cover on my Indiana & Whitewater will be a
little different. Most modelers seem content to just sprinkle on
a layer of ground foam and call it done. As we know, nature is
much more profuse than that, exhibiting a variety of textures
and depths. Scenery on my layout will represent winter, therefore much more of the ground will be visible than in a summer
scene.
You may remember this section of P48 trackwork in Photo 1
2
coat of brown latex paint after the plaster has hardened (Photo
3). This seals the plaster surface and provides a dirt coloring
1
from my previous article “Track As Scenery” (OST #25). For this
demonstration, I’ve mounted it to a wider baseboard so I can
extend the scenery a bit farther out. To make the sloping landforms, I just used some paper toweling dipped in soupy plaster
and draped them over the plywood base. To create a dirt-like
texture and to strengthen things, I sprinkled on some dry plaster, wetting it down with water from a spray bottle (Photo 2).
Although I haven’t tried it, you could use Woodland Scenics’
plaster cloth. I understand it is much neater to work with than
plaster soaked paper towels.
Once the landforms have been established, I brush on a
3
underneath the texturing to come. I typically use burnt umber
and raw sienna water soluble craft paints or tube acrylics, mixed
with a touch of white here and there to give some variation.
These paints aren’t terribly expensive and, since my layout is
small, they are feasible to use. For larger layouts, a quart or two
of latex paint in similar colors would be cheaper.
Photo 4 shows the materials needed to finish the initial layer
looks right to my eyes for wintertime grasses. The fine texture of
the blended turf tends to sit on top of the sawdust layer giving
the appearance of winter grasses, still green on top with a matted layer of dead thatch underneath. There isn’t anything scientific or precise about this step. Just pile the stuff on until it looks
good to your eyes. Once all the material is down, spray it with
some denatured alcohol from a handheld sprayer, just as you
did for track ballast, then bond everything with a diluted white
glue and water mixture (Photo 6). This soggy mess usually takes
from overnight to several days to dry, depending on the humidity level in the basement. This is the point that most modelers
call their groundcover finished, and I agree that it is perfectly
acceptable (Photo 7). In O Scale, texture and depth play a much
4
of groundcover. After the scenery is painted, I sprinkle on a
layer of ordinary sawdust. I don’t bother to sift it, although I do
remove large particles and wood chips. I just put this on, using
my fingers (Photo 5). You could use a sifter if you want, but I
7
5
find this produces too even a coating. Sometimes I try to sift
the sawdust into the paint while it is still wet, however the dry
plaster soaks up the paint fairly fast, so I have to bond things
in place with diluted white glue anyway. The sawdust alone
doesn’t look like much at this point. It is the texture that I’m
after, with the coarser particles providing a greater depth than
can be achieved using just ground foam.
Once the sawdust layer is down, I work in various colors and
textures (coarse, medium, &c) of Woodland Scenics’ ground
foam. I use their “blended turf” extensively, since the color
6
greater role than in the smaller scales, so there’s more that can
be done if you are so inclined.
Once the first layer is dry, other textures can be added to
represent taller grasses and weeds. For these I use sisal and jute
twine. Appropriate twine is cheap and available most anywhere.
Wal-Mart, Lowe’s, and Home Depot come to mind. One ball of
twine will do a ton of weeds, even on a large layout.
To make the tall weeds, I use a pair of diagonal cutters and
full-strength white glue. The procedure is simple. Spread white
glue on a small area of the scenery, then just hold the end of the
twine in one hand and cut off a piece about a 1/4” to 1/2” in
length. Place the bits of twine directly into the glue (Photos 8-9).
After placing, work the fibers apart slightly with your fingertip.
This helps them to resemble individual stalks of grasses, instead
of twine. I try to mimic the natural growth patterns, making
things a little more lush in low areas where water would collect and sparse in drier areas. Also vary the lengths so that your
weeds aren’t all the same height.
Once the glue dries, the weeds can be trimmed if needed
(such as near the track), or colored if the natural twine color
doesn’t suit you. I usually leave things as they are since the
8
ever use real steel wool!) I just tear off a hunk of the stuff, gluing
it down with full strength white glue wherever I want a tangle of
brambles. I sprinkle on some dark colored ground foam for dead
leaves (Photo 12). Folks modeling summertime could add a layer
color of the sisal twine is perfect, to my eyes, for representing
dried winter grasses. If you want a different color, the twine will
accept thin washes of acrylic paint with a little coaxing. Solventbased paints, like Floquil, seem to work better for this. Use the
proper safety precautions though. Applying weeds this way may
seem tedious and time consuming, and I’ll be the first to admit
it can be. With practice you tend to develop a rhythm of sorts,
and larger areas can be covered in a reasonable amount of time.
This makes a great “filler”-type of project, since it’s easy to pick
up or leave off at a moment’s notice. Once areas are covered
with weeds to my satisfaction, I dust on some static grass flocking or bits of dark colored ground foam to represent seed heads
and such. The flocking or foam can be secured with an application of diluted white glue and water (Photos 9-11).
12
of foliage net for leaves. Be sure to leave some of the branches
showing through, for a nice lacy effect.
For taller bushes I use sisal rope in diameters up to 1/4”. I
learned this method from an article by Don Ledger in Mainline
Modeler (Dec. 1999, pages 21-25). As outlined in Don’s article, I
make them, two at a time, by cutting off a section of rope about
two or three inches in length. Wrap a piece of 3/4” masking
tape around the middle of these pieces, and drizzle on some CA
adhesive near the edges of the tape to secure the fibers (Photos 13-15). Next, dip the ends of the rope in some water, then
10
13
11
Now its time to move on to smaller bushes and brambles.
Again, since winter is my chosen season, some sort of branch
structure will be more evident. I’ve found that Spanish moss is
very effective for this (Check the crafts/dried flowers section of
Wal-Mart.) This is the stuff that hangs from trees in the deep
South. It sort of resembles a loose tangle of steel wool (Do not
14
unravel the rope until you have a bunch of individual fibers. The
wetness helps to take out the twist in the separate strands, making it easier to work with. Once I have a half dozen or more, I
stab them onto a homemade jig for painting in various shades
18
15
of gray, brown and black with a spray can (Photo 16). Once
painted, I cut the rope bushes through the middle of the masking tape, making two bushes ready for planting on the layout
(Photos 17-18).
As I hope the photos show, these techniques can add
another dimension to scenery modeling. While they may seem
tedious or time consuming initially, the end result is well worth
the effort.
u
17
16
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$550
$325
Weaver 2-Rail Brass
PRR K4 F/P, Early
$1100
PRR K4 C/P ’35-’41 scheme
$1400
PRR K4 C/P ’42-’57 scheme
$1400
PRR L1 F/P
$950
RDG G1sas Crusader #117 or #118
$1200
RDG Crusader 5-car passenger set as-built $750
RDG Crusader 5-car set with corrected glazing
and shades
$950
Other 2-Rail Brass
USH PRR K4 C/P Full Striping
$1650
USH NYC Dreyfus Hudson
custom ptd first scheme
$1850
OMI MILW 4-4-2 Hiawatha C/P #1
$1750
PSC SOU Ps4 F/P Cresc Ltd. #1393
$2500
Pioneer Zephyr 3 cars
3-Rail Scale Steam
Weaver
PRR S/L K-4 Torpedo
PRR Std K-4 F/P
PRR K-4 C/P Early Low Tdr Striping
PRR K-4 C/P 36-41 Condensed Ltr
PRR K-4 C/P 41-47 Expanded Ltr
PRR K-4 C/P 47-57 Modern Solid Pilot
PRR A-5 0-4-0 F/P
PRR A-5 0-4-0 C/P Dull
RDG G-1 4-6-2
RDG G-1sas Crusader
RDG Matching Crusader Cars
SAL C/P USRA 0-6-0 Sound
SOU C/P 4-8-2 Grn, Stripes B&O C/P T-3 W/Vandy Sound, Smoke
WM H-7 C/P Dull Alt #
C&O 2-8-0 C/P Dull
UP
’49er S/L 4-6-2
Williams
PRR E-6 C/P Late #6513
PRR E-6 C/P Prsl
PRR B-6 C/P Dull #5244
PRR L-1 C/P Dull Dg’ Tdr
PRR L-1 C/P West Tdr
PRR K-4 Custom Modern #646
Sound, Smoke
SOU Ps-4 Custom W/Elesco
Green w/Stripes
N&W Class A 2-6-6-4 Detailed
$1500
$1,100
$950
$1,450
$1,250
$1,250
$1,350
$800
$900
$850
$1,100
$600
$750
$1,500
$1,750
$750
$750
$1,100
$950
$950
$750
$950
$1,100
$1,250
$1,250
$1,350
Westside Brass
RF&P Custom, Governor 3-Rail Conversion
Sound Smoke Stripes, Logo, Etc. $2,750
Sunset/3rd Rail
PRR H-6 C/P Late Scheme
PRR H-6 C/P PRSL
PRR E-6 F/P Sound
PRR P5a Mod Electric
SP
4-4-2 Std
SP
4-4-2 F/P Daylight
UP
4-4-2 F/P
PRR Turbine – Upgraded
B&M R-1 4-8-2 Late Scheme
UP
Big Boy W/ Sound
ATSF Northern
GN S-2 4-8-4 Glacier
$975
$1,075
$1,150
$950
$1,000
$1,150
$1,050
$1,000
$1,300
$1,950
$1,200
$1,200
MTH
RF&P 2-8-4 Custom Modified W/Striping$1,450
ACL 4-8-4 Custom Mod 8-Wheel
Tender #1801
$1,650
C&O 4-8-4 Greenbrier
$975
C&O Custom Greenbrier Early #605 $1,250
DM&IR Yellowstone
$1,650
N&W Class A Custom #1216 Correct
& Detailed
$1,500
N&W Streamlined J 4-8-4
$1,100
NYC Dreyfus Hudson
$975
UP
Northern #8444
$1,250
PRR T-1 Duplex #6110
$1,250
CNW S/L Hudson
$800
ACL Custom 4-6-2
$750
ERIE Custom Superdetailed K-5
w/Vandy Tdr
$1,650
RDG I-10 2-8-0
$975
PRR Custom G-5 #5720 W/Brass Tdr $1,100
PRR K-4 Modified As K-3 C/P #9999 $1,000
Railroad Collectibles, 86 W. Johnson St., Philadelphia, PA 19144
Voice: 215-438-4330 • Fax: 215-438-7322 • Email:[email protected]
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NEWS: Wood Deck Car Details
B.T.S., PO Box 856, Elkins WV 26241
304-637-4510 • www.btsrr.com
BTS now offers laser-cut and engraved wood decks to
enhance Weaver and Atlas O cars. These decks feature bolt
holes and are very easy to install. #12600
Atlas 52’6” Gon Deck
$ 11.95
#12608
Weaver Flat #U25XX Deck
$ 15.95
#12611
Weaver War Gon #U17XX Deck $ 11.95
NEWS: Handmade Telegraph Poles, MSRP: see below
DM&M Railroad Co., 5931 Endicott Rd., Columbus, OH 43229
614-554-2959 • www.dmmrailroad.com
David Baran, proprietor of the DM&M Railroad Co., sent
some samples of his handmade telegraph poles. The poles
are real wood eight inches tall with glass insulators. Poles
come prestained and weathered. David offers a variety of
configurations plus a number of extra details such as lineman
steps, transformers and electrical boxes. The photos show
several of the samples. They
were very nicely detailed.
David also offers to build
custom poles. Provide him with
a drawing or photo and he will
make it for you. He can also do
custom stains.
Prices vary by configuration.
You get three one-arm poles for
$7, four two-arm for $10, three
three-arm for $10, three Alleyarm for $10 and two double
poles for $10. Construction
usually takes one to two weeks
once an order is received.
David accepts checks and
money orders. Payment is due
when the customer receives
the order.
NEWS: Laser Cut windows for MMI K27
Chooch Enterprises, Inc., PO Box 1200, Maple Valley, WA
98038
425-788-8680 • www.choochenterprises.com
Ultra Scale, a division of Chooch Enterprises,
announces laser-cut replacement cab-side windows for Mountain Model Imports On3 and On30
D&RGW K-27 2-8-2. Part #653, they sell for $15
per set directly from Chooch Enterprises. Call Mike
O’Connell for any questions at 425-273-4794.
REVIEW: “Master” EMD SD-40
2-Rail DC/DCC Ready, MSRP $439.95
2-Rail/3-Rail TMCC, MSRP $479.95
3-Rail TMCC, MSRP $479.95
“Trainman” Alco RSD-4/5
2-Rail/3-Rail
MSRP $229.95
3-Rail TMCC
MSRP $369.95
Atlas O, LLC, 378 Florence Avenue, Hillside,
NJ 07205
908-687-9590 • www.atlaso.com
Reviewed by Brian Scace
Recently, a couple of boxes showed
up from Atlas O, one containing a new
SD-40 and the other an RSD from the
new Trainman line. Of course, the first
thing to cross my evil mind was to do
a comparison between Trainman and
what Atlas O now calls the “Master
Motive-Power” line. By the time this is
over, you’ll know what makes each one
what it is. Of course, a quick glance at
the above pricing tells a powerful story,
and raises a question or two.
Operation, Separate and Together
Both of our review models are the
DC/DCC ready versions, rather than the
TMCC equipped ones we have been
testing lately, so a comparison of operating characteristics is possible. From
an operational standpoint, there really
was no difference
between the two.
Both start out a little frisky using the
Crest radio throttle system, fairly leap
using an old Variac system, and are
well behaved when used with an MRC
Controlmaster 20. As with previous
offerings, the top speeds are higher than
useful for me, but there’s enough range
to be satisfactory. Just don’t crank these
puppies! As with most drives of their ilk,
the starting amperage is very low, so a
modern control system (what some of
us used to call “transistor throttles”) is
called for, if used in a conventional cabcontrol environment.
The Trainman drive appears to be
identical to the Master drive, so mixing
units is no issue. These two examples
MU’d well together. One item that got
me was that the RSD didn’t heft like
the SD-40. It also didn’t pull nearly as
much. Since the drive components are
(I believe) the same, there shouldn’t be
an issue with throwing a bit of weight in
there to get the tractive effort up.
So, What’s the Diff?
If the drive components are the same,
where’s the difference that can make
the RSD some $200 less than the SD40? It sure looks like the difference is in
the details. The SD-40 has lots of ‘em,
while the RSD is pretty plain, though not
to say wanting. There are still separate
grabs, glazing in the windows, a radiator
fan under the mesh, and other eye food.
The truck relief is a little shallow and the
truck detail a little plain for my tastes.
This does reflect a savings, though, as
the sideframes look to be a single piece
coining tooled for a more basic die.
The Master-series SD-40 trucks, to get
the relief and detail level, appear to be
struck from a more expensive multifacet die set, and with some significant
labor investment for all the nifty addon details. A little weathering will help
make the simple RSD truck jump out a
little, though.
Certainly a big production savings
must come from the fact that the “Master” line not only is detailed to a higher
level, and with more discrete parts per
assembly (such as the afore-mentioned
truck sideframes), but each is detailed
to a specific roadname’s configuration.
When you think about it, it costs tooling
and assembly money to do the different headlight configurations, handbrake
styles, dynamic brake choices, and hood
configurations we’ve come to expect.
Meanwhile, our RSD is a generic locomotive, offered in a variety of paint
schemes, but know that it’s generic. You
get to noodle it to suit with aftermarket
details, or run it as it sits. The tooling
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ing in the TMCC environment than in
the conventional cab-control environment. I’ve never tried them with DCC
installed, so I can’t speak to that. I
have noticed, in the latest catalogs,
that 2-Rail TMCC-equipped offerings
are becoming more and more limited,
so those with stables of Atlas TMCCequipped Diesel power may want to
explore other options, should there
be insufficient orders to support a
favorite roadname or prototype factoryequipped with TMCC. As this is written, I have a pair of Atlas Rutland RS-1s
out for aftermarket installation. I’ll let
you know how they turn out.
Conclusions
To be honest, this comparison could
be construed as an apples-and-oranges
thing, or that Scace is just looking for
new ways to be obstreperous (Could
be…). I think it was a fair thing to do.
Sooner or later the two lines will share
Diesel shop space on many folks’ railroads, and a comparison is inevitable.
The Master series SD40 is a nice model
of arguably the mainstay 20th century
six-axle unit. With an appropriate “transistor-throttle” power supply, the performance is quite acceptable and the
appearance shows continued development in the Atlas O now-called “Master
Motive Power”. Development? Well,
the truck heights sure look better than
the earlier SD-35, so Jim and the crew
seem to be listening (So how ‘bout
being the first with the “Scace Switch”
for those markers, Jim?) and working to
improve each new model. The Trainman RSD is also a value, in my mind,
for what it is. Here is solid basic motive
power to suit the budget-conscious, and
a decent candidate for those who want
to try their hand at detail upgrades to
suit. There’s a lot to like here.
12-3/8" wide by 11-3/4" tall by 1-3/4" deep
and labor costs would be quite a bit
less, doing one version of the model,
and I suspect that’s where the real savings is realized. By the way, it’s a lot of
fun and very satisfying to detail plastic
Diesels. As the Trainman line expands,
I would hope to see a resurrection of
interest in aftermarket details, such as
those offered by Pat Mucci of P&D
Hobby for the Weaver RS-3 and FA.
What’s the same? The paint quality
is comparable, both neatly done in a
manner I’ve come to expect from Atlas.
The assembly is clean, straight, and
tight on both, as well.
Some Thoughts on Lighting
Here is a case, perhaps, of too little
and too much. The RSD headlights
are lit, though a little disconcerting for
those of us who’ve become spoiled by
Atlas’ Master series. The twin sealedbeam headlight is lit by a single source
inside the carbody. At certain angles,
one or the other of the lights appears to
dim. Changing the source out for a pair
of grain-of-wheat bulbs (one in each
socket of the headlight) or a pair of yellow LED’s would be an obvious owner
upgrade.
The SD-40, on the other hand, is
well-lit with LEDs in the sockets of the
headlight, as we have come to enjoy.
My only observation that would be
a real improvement for us neurotics
would be this. The red buglights switch
out front-to-rear with the change of
direction. These are actually marker
lights, lit to the back when the locomotive is at the rear of a train (the last unit
in a pusher set or the rear unit in a light
movement, for example). Other than
those circumstances, the buglights are
off. For the conventional DC cab-control version, how ‘bout using a couple
of those empty slide-switch pockets in
the frame so we can manually switch
the pair on that is appropriate, and
switch them off in those majority of
times when they’re not used, rather
than the diode-controlled circuit? That
way, they stay off when the unit is at
the head of a train or leading a helper
set, but that rear pusher unit can still
(appropriately) protect the rear of a
train, even when cutting off. It’s Scace’s
pet peeve about most locomotive
models built as crossovers between the
upper-end 3-Rail and the 2-Rail marketplace. Please give us a switch so we
can turn the fool things on and off, as
appropriate.
Whither TMCC?
To be honest, I find Atlas O Diesels
more controllable and sedate operat-
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REVIEW: NKP 4-6-4, MSRP: $995
Weaver Models, PO Box 231, Northumberland PA 17857
570-473-9434 • www.weavermodels.com
reviewed by Joe Giannovario
Prototype Info
When I think of the Nickel Plate Road, the wheel arrangement 2-8-4 immediately springs to mind. However, one should
not be surprised to find that the NKP had other wheel arrangements, too. To this end, Weaver Models has imported a limited
run of the NKP class L1a-L1b 4-6-4 in brass.
I confess that I am totally ignorant of NKP steam power and
only know what I've read in the 1998 Hundman Publishing
The Locomotive Cyclopedia, Volume 1. Apparently, in 1926 the
NKP needed new passenger locomotives to handle an increase
in passenger traffic, especially on the Chicago to Buffalo run.
Based on input from the NYC, the NKP chose the 4-6-4 or
“Hudson” wheel arrangement, a totally new class for the road.
The first four locomotives (numbers 170-173) were delivered in
March of 1926. A second quartet (numbers 174-177) was delivered in May of 1929. Our test model was numbered 177.
In 1945, in an attempt to improve visibility, the NKP added
smoke lifters to these Hudsons. The initial attempt was an odd
looking arrangement welded to the top of the smokebox which
did not work well. In 1946, NYC-style “elephant ear” smoke
lifters were added to all the locomotives. Our test model was
so equipped, along with lit number boards. According to my
reference source, this configuration puts the model in the
1945-1947 time range.
The Model
I measured the model’s main dimensions and compared
them to the plan in the Hundman Cyclopedia. Unfortunately, I
also had to estimate some dimensions from the HO Scale plan,
so bear with me. The driver diameter should be 73". I measured a tad over 70. Keeping to scale diameter and driver spacing is always a problem with large-driver models. Usually one
measurement must be sacrificed for the other. In this case, the
driver spacing is right on the money. Pilot wheels were slightly
undersized at 32" on the model versus 36" on the prototype.
The trailing truck wheels were correct at 36" and 45" each. The
wheelbase for the pilot the drivers and the trailing truck were
exactly correct.
At this point, I have to move into the realm of estimated
measurements, so I consider any error less than three scale
inches probably correct. My measurements of the boiler length
and the locations of various items such as sandbox and steam
dome found no serious discrepancies. Cab width measured out
exactly, as did the smokebox diameter and smokebox length.
Similarly, all my measurements of the tender seemed to match
the drawings within my tolerance of error. Being a brass model,
one expects certain items to move such as cab hatches and
tender cistern lids. This one has them. My conclusion is that
this is an acceptably accurate scale model of the NKP 4-6-4.
Operation
Weaver sent me a 2-Rail straight DC model to test; this
model is also available in 2-Rail TMCC® for $1095 and 3-Rail
TMCC® for $1095. I hooked up my meters and cranked up
the throttle. Surprisingly, I found the loco started to move at
one (1) volt, drawing about 0.4 amps. We’ve gotten used to
having locomotives start at much higher voltages because of
the command control systems many have installed. I decided
to see just how slowly this locomotive would run on the OST
layout with its three-plus-percent grades. The NKP 4-6-4
ran the whole layout at five volts drawing a maximum of 0.8
amps at grade. That is an impressive performance. However, I
noticed something odd. On its way upgrade, none of the lights
(headlight, number boards, class lamps) on the loco were “on”.
As the loco came downgrade, the headlight glowed dimly. I
checked the box and it does say “constant voltage lighting”.
Remember when I said we’d gotten used to starting voltages
being much higher? Well, the lighting circuit needs at least
eight volts (at 1 amp) on the track to keep everything illuminated. For my taste that was a bit too fast. If this were my model,
I’d probably put a couple of diodes in series/parallel with the
motor leads to “up” the minimum starting voltage. That’s just
me. Other than that, this is one slick smooth running locomotive.
The models are very limited. Our test model was #9 of 210.
If you want one of these sleek mid-sized Hudsons, call Weaver
now because there may not be any left by the time you see
this.
REVIEW: RGS Galloping Goose #5 w/LokSound, MSRP: $300; w/o
sound: $200
Precision Craft Models, 4 Signal Ave, Suite A, Ormond Beach, FL,
32174
386-615-1912 • www.precisioncraftmodels.com
Reviewed by Joe Giannovario
Background
At one point in my model railroading “career”, I became
enamored of Colorado narrow gauge. I dabbled with a few
pieces, and even once made a rail-truck from an old Bandai
1:48 German WWII halftrack and some Grandt Line parts.
During this period, I was fortunate enough to buy a first edition of Mallory Hope Ferrell’s Silver San Juan: The Rio Grande
Southern. I used this book as reference for this review.
The story of the Galloping Geese of the RGS would take
several pages to tell properly, so I’ll summarize. By 1931,
annual revenue of the RGS had fallen to just $127,000 and the
railroad was in receivership. Drastic measures were required to
cut expenses. The railroad came up with the idea of combining a motor car that could carry people, freight, and mail with
a one-man crew. Gas-powered rail cars were not that unique,
but what the RGS came up with was very different than what
anyone else had done up to that time.
After several trial vehicles numbered “1”, the RGS built
Motor 2, the first real Galloping Goose. Motor 2 was built by
combining a Buick “Master Six” four-door sedan body with a
16’ mail/express compartment.
Based on the success and profitability of the early experiments and Motor 2, the RGS built Motor 3 in 1931. Motor 3 set
the standard for all future Geese. Motor 3 was cobbled together from Pierce-Arrow parts and was much larger than Motor
2. It rode on three trucks, weighed almost 15,000 pounds, and
could carry ten passengers. Motors 4 through 7 soon followed.
The Geese went through many changes over their useful
lives. In 1946, Motors 3, 4 and 5 were rebuilt with Wayne
bus bodies and received General Motors engines. The Geese
ended their days in the early 1950s running tourist service.
The Model
Precision Craft Models has produced an O Scale model
of Motors 3, 4 or 5 in their later life (post-1946). The model
appears to be accurate in dimension and detail, and is a combination of diecast and plastic parts. It weighs in at exactly one
pound. There are no operating doors or the like, but it is nicely
detailed. The bus body is hinged to the freight box to allow
operation on sharp radius curves (otherwise this would be a
very long, rigid wheelbase). The power truck also pivots within
the freight body.
The model we reviewed came with DCC and LokSound
pre-installed, but also ran on straight DC. When operated on
traditional DC, some sounds are emitted from the model, but
to gain access to the full array of sounds you will need Precision Craft’s DCMaster box (MSRP: $40). More on this later.
DC Operations
When you first apply power to the track, the Goose emits
a pop and then you hear an internal combustion motor cranking over. After a short bit the motor starts and idles while the
front light comes on. This all happens at about seven volts or
so. As you apply more voltage, the Goose starts to accelerate
with the sound of the motor. As the Goose picks up speed,
the sound system emits a gear change and the motor starts to
wind up again, just like a real car would after shifting gears.
Acceleration was smooth and steady. I didn’t have enough
trackage to see what the top speed would be but I’m betting it
isn’t very fast (The prototype didn’t run much over 20-30 mph.)
When coming to a stop, or if you reverse direction, the Goose
slows down and you hear some brake squeal before it stops or
reverses direction.
The sound was a bit loud, I thought, so I hooked up the
DCMaster to see what I could do to change that. With the
DCMaster attached (power in/power out; simple), I was able to
lower the volume in two stages or turn it off completely. With
the sound off, I could hear the electric motor inside the freight
body. There was a slight gear-whine but nothing objectionable.
Additional buttons on the DCMaster rang a bell and blew two
different kinds of horns. If you have DCC on your layout, all
of the sound options are available through the DCC controller.
You won’t need the DCMaster.
Opinions
This is Precision Craft’s first foray into O Scale and it is very,
very nicely done. Precision Craft is a company that produces
mostly HO and N locomotives and, like they do in HO and
N, they are delivering these Geese with DC/DCC and sound
pre-installed. When you factor in the price with these features,
you get a huge value for your O Scale dollar. Even if you have
to buy the DCMaster for DC operation, the total price is still
quite reasonable. The PCM Galloping Geese are available
in 45 different combinations of freight body, passenger body
(tourist), liveries, DC/DCC w/Sound, DC/DCC w/o sound, and
On3 or On30 (Phew)! Check your local hobby shop or visit the
PCM website to locate a dealer near you.
Photos from 2006 O Scale West
by Jim Ferreira
Third Place Winner Steam Locomotive: F.C.M. 2-8-0, outside frame narrow
gauge, by Blen B. Erickson, Brentwood, California.
First Place Winner Structures: Station, by
Mike Linxwiler, Hollister, California.
Second Place Winner Maintenance of Way: Y.S.L.
MOW Car No.280, by James Eckman, Mountain View,
California.
First Place Winner Traction:
California Central Traction No.202
Jim Bond, Pacifica, California.
Page Background...
Second Place Winner Structures:
Miner’s Bar by Darryl Huffman, Old
Seward Hwy, Arkansas.
First Place Winner Electric
Locomotive: Scotia Northern
On30 Box Cab, and First
Place Winner Caboose: Scotia
Northern Caboose, both by Bill
Wilson, Fortuna, California.
First Place Winner Steam Locomotive:
Great Northern F-8, 2-8-0,
by Theodore Doyle, Kingwood, Texas.
First Place Winner Diesel Locomotive:
Southern Pacific Alco S-2,
by David Berriman, Arcata, California.
Third Place Winner Freight Car:
On30 Freight Car No.24
James Eckman, Mountain View, California.
O Scale Influences—Joe Fischer
by Brian Scace
It isn’t often that we can run a combination “O Scale Influences” piece and a good scratchbuilding article at the same
time. Most of us “older” O Scalers know the name, Joe Fischer.
For the rest of you, joining us today, we’ll introduce you to Joe,
his techniques, and his fantastic results, in this rather unusual
way.
Joe was a custom builder of passenger cars. I’m a lucky guy,
because I have had several friends (Mike Hill and Bob Hess, to
name just two) who have led me to a few of his cars over the
years. Best of all, Bill Truscott and Tony Ambrose linked me up
with Joe, himself, late in his career. I enjoy running the two cars
he built for me personally to this day.
Although his cars might now be considered premium-spread
collector fodder, there was much more to it. Joe built them to be
run, not just admired. I’ve never owned a Fischer car that wasn’t
at home on the railroad, earning its keep. They weren’t intended
to be merely expensive mantel queens; they are elegant at
speed. Although they still command a premium on the collector
side of the house, I can’t imagine anyone being disappointed in
a Fischer car for it’s operational behavior.
For those who would like to own one or two of Joe’s wonderful cars, they are actually are quite easy to identify. They usually
have complete interiors, bristol board sides made from several
laminations, and impeccable finishes. The center sills on his cars
are usually solid, rather than a “U” channel, and are finished, as
is the entire underbody, to the same high degree. You won’t see
wood grain in his floors. Joe used commercial parts where he
could, such as ends, roofs, trucks, and brake gear. Photo 4 (page
65) shows the level of finesse Joe achieved in his laminations
and rivet techniques, and Photo 5 (page 65) gives you an idea of
the style and degree of finish you should expect when looking
at one of his cars from the bottom.
The accompanying article was published back in the 1951,
and in it Joe Fischer will describe his techniques. I’ve chosen
not to replace his part sources with more up-to-date information
within the original text, but here are a few tips. Since All Nation
now owns the old Walthers line of metal passenger car kits,
you can certainly try them first for the parts Joe mentions in the
article. Failing that, these parts are readily find-able at the various regional and national O Scale shows. Of course, you can
substitute your own favorite roofs, ends, seats, and underbody
parts, be they from the American Standard line, Keil, PSC, or
scratchbuilt. The article is useful for the technique, so don’t get
all balled up over finding each and every part that Joe originally
used.
By the way, the technique actually lends itself to modern
materials (such as Styrene) for the laminations. I’ve made it a
point to include a photo of a Pennsy B60 baggage car scratchbuilt by the late Ted Stepek. He built this car using Joe’s article
for the technique, substituting Styrene for Bristol board. Ted carried the rivet-strip lamination technique up to the roof of his car,
as well.
Here are a couple of tips, gleaned from conversations with
Joe and with few other folks I’ve run into with talent for building in wood and board. First, seal everything. Humidity is a
killer for paper sides and can cause weird warpages in long thin
shapes, such as wooden floors and roofs. For a glass-smooth
finish in wood, a sanding sealer is an excellent material. The
wood model airplane folks use a finish called “dope”, available
in all kinds of colors at hobby shops catering to this crowd.
There is a sanding sealer, already made up, that is usually part
of this paint line, or you can make your own, in the manner of
the Ancients, by mixing talcum powder with Clear Dope. Apply
the stuff, let it dry, and sand smooth; start with 200 grit sandpaper (dry), go to 400 grit wet-and-dry (dry first, then wet it a
little with plain water) and finish up with very fine steel wool.
The finish probably won’t be perfectly smooth the first time, so
apply some more sealer and repeat the process until the finish
is up to snuff. Another friend of mine, Tom Kabele, actually uses
sprayed enamel as a sanding sealer on his wood passenger car
roofs. He just sprays on a coat of Krylon Black, for instance,
knocks the “fuzzies” off with steel wool, and repeats until satisfied. Tom’s roofs and wood floors are glass-smooth, using this
technique.
Joe didn’t pioneer his techniques; many of his generation
used them to build their passenger fleets. I don’t know of anyone who perfected them to the degree that he did, though,
especially in his later cars. Not only am I fortunate to be the
custodian of a few examples of this craftsman’s work, I’ve
learned a lot while trying my hand at his techniques. They work
just fine today, whether used with traditional bristol board or
modern Styrene sheet.
u
Joe’s construction techniques lend themselves well to today’s materials.
Ted Stepek built this PRR B60 using the same methods, and substituting Styrene for bristol board.
O Scale Coaches
Joe Fischer
A Joe Fischer car owned by Brian Scace.
(Reprinted by permission from the Model Railroad Handbook,
Fawcett, 1951. As far as we know this is the only time Mr.
Fischer described his construction methods in print.)
On most model railroads the humble day coach seems to
have been neglected in favor of sleepers and parlor cars. Yet
the coach is a definite part of most passenger trains from the
jerkwater local to the swankiest limited, so let’s build some
of them. The two cars shown (in Photos 1 and 2) would be
ideal for a branchline local. While you are at it, you may want
to take advantage of mass production methods and build six
coaches and two combines. Besides the two-car local, you’ll
then have a combine and three coaches for the day express and
two coaches for part of the consist of the limited.
New York Central prototype was selected for these coaches,
which were built in O Scale. I recommend purchase of the following hard-to-make parts of these cars: two #C406 ends for
the coach, one #C405 end and one #C406 for the combine,
two #M104 roof sections, and two #M101 floor sections [from
Walthers]. Dummy couplers may be used if desired, but I prefer
the Monarch bottom-operated type. Trucks can be either four
or six-wheel; NYC uses both kinds on its coaches. I chose the
standard four-wheel type. Platform steps may be purchased or
built up from bristol board or thin brass. I did not attempt to
make any underbody detail, such as generators, triple valves,
cylinders and steam traps. These purchased parts contain better
detail than any I could make up from raw materials.
The material used for the sides is bristol board, available at
your hobby shop or any large stationery store. Ask for process
blanks, six-ply, in 22” x 28” sheets. One sheet will be plenty for
one car. Bristol board used correctly will never warp. It is absolutely essential that you use it for every part of the main sections
of the sides. Otherwise, warpage will occur.
The car sides must be laid out with the grain of the bristol
board running vertically. Hold the sheet lengthwise in your
hands and notice how easily it bends. Now hold it the other
way and try to bend it. You’ll find that it won’t bend easily or
smoothly. The sheet bends easily with the grain, but eventually
cracks when bent against the grain. Unless specified otherwise,
all drawing will be done on the board with the grain vertical,
not horizontal.
Photos 1 & 2: Two cars built by Joe Fischer referred to in the article.
Tack the sheet of bristol securely to your drawing board,
squaring off the sides. Make sure that the grain is vertical. Use
a #3 or #4 pencil with a sharp point, It is best to have several
pointed pencils handy to insure precision-drawn sides. Do not
use a pencil harder than #4 because it may tear into the board
while you are drawing the lines.
Begin by drawing the sides for the combine, using the plan
(Figure 1). Photo 3 shows the side components. At the top is a
completed side. The other four strips show each lamination in
detail. “A” is the outside layer with embossed rivets and window
framing. “B” is the section containing the window sash and vestibule door. “C” shows the vestibule and baggage-door window
sash and the space for sliding in the acetate for the windows.
“D” is the inner, or backing, side which holds the acetate in
place.
Accuracy is important when laying out the windows and
doors. It is a good idea to work from the vestibule end toward
the center and measure the baggage door dimensions from the
baggage end toward the center. Side “A” does not have the vestibule door. Only the window openings (minus the frames, of
course) and the baggage door opening are cut out. Window and
door dimensions are marked along the bottom edge of side “A”
so that they can be projected downward to sides “B” and “D”.
This will assure you of window sash spacings which are in line.
Side “B” has the vestibule door marked, and the door sash,
Figure 1a
door panel, and window frames cut out. Forget about the baggage door for the time being. Side “D” has the vestibule window
opening slightly larger than the one in side “B”. The window
openings can be cut out individually or every other window
post can be removed, as shown in side “D” (Photo 3). This side
is the backing to hold the acetate in place.
Use a single-edge razor blade set in a handle or an X-acto
knife to do all the cutting. In either case the blade must be
sharp. Incidentally, if the bottom three sides, “D”, “B” and “A”,
are laid out upside down on your bristol board, laminations can
be made for the opposite side by transferring the tick marks previously made on the other side “A” at the top of the sheet.
The next step is the embossing of the rivets in side “A”. Cut
two small strips of glazed paper 3/16” high by 2-1/4” long from a
magazine cover and cement one strip under each baggage door.
After the adhesive has set, the rivet impressions can be made in
the sides. Rivet impressions are made with the center point of a
compass.
Lay out the rivet lines on the reverse of sides “A” and emboss
them with the shouldered point. Do not make any rivets near
the doors, between the windows, or on the sides below the belt
rail at the seams in the side plates. These are glazed paper overlay strips.
You will need a gadget to make rivet strips. It’s the old standby, a watch gear screwed to a wood handle. First we’ll make the
rivet strips that fit next to the vestibule door and on both sides of
the baggage door opening. On a glazed magazine cover, mark
off a line 1/16” from the edge. Lay the paper on a smooth piece
of wood. Now place your straightedge on the line to serve as
a guide for the rivet wheel. Press down on the wheel to make
sure the teeth will perforate. Cut off the strip from the rest of
Figure 1b
the cover as close to the
line of.rivets as you can.
The strip should be 3/32”
wide. Trim to fit and
cement them in place.
Remove all flash from
the die-cast ends. Make
sure you have one type of
end for the vestibule and
another for the baggage
section. Clean out the
coupler support opening
so that the coupler will
swing freely. Run a 2-56
screw into the coupler
mounting hole to tap it.
The two upper lugs used
to fasten the roof permanently to the body can
be cut off because they will not be needed. The roof on our car
will be made removable for access to the interior.
Marker light brackets are 1/8” pieces of 1/16” diameter tubing. A bracket is soldered to each side of the cast end. The top
of the bracket is 1-5/16” from the bottom of the casting. Spot
and drill the holes in the castings to receive the various handrails. The brake wheel and chain are pinned to the casting at the
baggage end.
The car floor, as purchased, is 2-3/8” wide x 22” long. Cut it
to 2-3/16” wide x 18-1/32” long, the same length as the sides.
Draw a centerline from end to end for use as a reference in
locating underbody detail. Make sure the end castings fit snugly
against the wood floor.
Two partitions are needed: one for the vestibule and one
near the baggage end. A third can be placed to separate baggage and coach sections if desired. Cut these parts 1-9/16” x
2-3/16” from the discarded floor section.
On the underside of the roof, draw a straight line 5/16” from
one end. Then, from the line just drawn, measure 18-1/32”, the
same length as the sides, and draw another line. Measure 5/16”
again and lay out another line. The two 5/16” measurements are
the portions of the roof which will rest on the end castings. If
interior illumination is desired, cut a section 3/16” deep x 3/4”
wide down the center.
Shape the underside of the roof at the ends to fit the contour
Coaches shown in S Scale, 3/16" = 1 foot. Enlarge drawings by 33.33% for O Scale.
Drawn by Carey Hinch for OST Magazine.
of the end castings. The shaping of the roof ends is next. Shape
the contour roughly, beginning at a point about 9/16” from the
end. Finish so the contour starts in at 14” from the end and continues downward in a smooth curve.
If interior detail is wanted, paint the inside of the car. We are
modeling a non-air conditioned car of the early 1930s, and the
color scheme must conform to that period. Paint the sides from
the floor line to the bottom of the windows a dark shade of gray,
brown or green. From the window line up, use a lighter shade
of the same color. The floor can be brown with two or three tan
stripes to represent the aisle.
Cut the sides to fit between the end castings. At the baggage end the sides must be flush with the casting. If the casting
protrudes, file it down flush with the sides. Before cementing
the sides to the body, set two pieces of wood exactly the same
thickness and slightly longer than the car on a flat surface. Affix
the sides to the body, using only enough cement to cover the
floor and partition edges. Place the assembled body on its side
on the two wood strips, so that the sill is between them. The
windows will rest on one strip and the portion below the sill
on the other. Place two more wood strips in the same manner
across the car side facing you. Then lay another piece of wood
long enough to cover the entire car on top of the strips. Now
place a weight over all, evenly distributed over the body. Let the
weight remain in place for an hour or so until the sides adhere
firmly. Remove the weight and set the body aside for a full day.
Views detailing the various construction stages and assembly of
the cars are shown in Figure 2.
Either a brush or spray gun can be used to paint the car. If
you use a spray gun, be sure to fasten the roof to the body so
the interior finish is not spoiled. The exterior is Pullman green.
The roof is black and should be painted separately from the
body: If the car is to be lighted, paint the interior light gray or
ivory; otherwise, it can he finished in black, too. If you use
lacquer in a spray gun, sandpaper the surface after thoroughly
covering the body. The underbody detail is painted black; so are
the handgrabs and the brake wheel on the baggage end. Paint
the trucks black before mounting them to the body. Chains can
be attached to the trucks if desired. Now apply the decals. To
get the proper spacing between letters, I cut the decal apart
and set each character in place separately. A coat of varnish is
applied next. A gloss finish will bring out the green color, but
fingerprints will show.
The construction of the coach is basically the same as for
the combine. The detail at the vestibules is the same at both
ends. [Photo 4 shows an example of a finished side and Photo
5 shows a typical underbody arrangement and detail.] Photo 6
shows the end details. Note the difference in end treatment for
the baggage end of the combine.
u
Figure 2: Details of the body assembly.
Photo 3: Laminations “A”, “B”, “C”, and “D” are cemented together to form the completed side shown at top. “A” is the outside wall with rivet impressions.
The vestibule door and window sash are formed by side “B”. Layer “C” is a pocket for holding window material in place. “D” is the interior wall.
The end castings fit snugly against the wood floor.
Photo 4: Side Details
Photo 5: Underbody Details
Photo 6: End Details
2K6 O Scale Trains
3rd Annual Digital Photo Contest
see page 16 for details
47
Gorilla Glue
AAA Precision Turntables
12
Allegheny Scale Models
27
P&D Hobby Shop
17
Great Scale Model Train Show 14
Precision Craft Models
28
39
Hackworth Model Trains
24
Precision Scale Co.
Amer. Prof. O Scale Services
32
House of Duddy
32
Proto-Switch
39
AM Hobbies
12
Irish Tracklayer
14
Public Delivery Track
27
Just Trains
69
Railroad Collectibles
51
Keil-Line Products
22
RCS of NE
55
Key Imports
34
Rons Books
27
AtlasO
Auel Industries
Bachmann
IBC
31
9
IFC
Baldwin Forge & Machine
31
Korber
12
RY Models
66
Banta Modelworks
23
LaBelle Woodworking Co.
22
San Juan Car Co.
31
BTS
10
Model Building Services
14
SMR Trains
Buffalo Creek Graphics
14
Model Tech
31
Stevenson Preservation Lines 29
Central Locomotive Works
29
M.T.H. Electric Trains
66
Sumpter Valley Depot
22
Clever Bros.
22
Mullett River
12
Suncoast Models
24
Crusader Rail Services
29
NCE Corp
32
Sunset⁄3rd Rail
Curved Benchwork
29
Nickel Plate Models
29
T Bone Models
29
Custom Signals
39
Norm’s O Scale
14
Turner Model Works
31
Deichman's Depot
29
O Scale Kings
33
Valley Model Trains
55
Digistar
47
O Scale Realty
31
Weaver
21
Eagles Nest Miniatures
24
Old Pullman
34
Western Reserve O Scale Meet 34
East Gary Car Co.
22
Overland Models
52
Get Real Productions 67
PA Heritage Models
47
8
46,BC
Advertisers Index
2006 Convention
Buy–Sell–Trade
Buy-Sell-Trade ads are $5 for 30 words plus your address information. Additional words are $0.25 each. Subscribers are permitted one free ad per subscription cycle. All B-S-T ads are prepaid. You may send ads by postal service with a check or money order. Ads sent by email or called in must use a credit
card. See our contact info on page 2.
FOR SALE: KOHS UP 4-12-2 #9051, mint, never run; Sunset C&O 210-4, new in box; Sunset UP early Challenger, coal version, new in box;
Overland UP 4-6-2, coal version, custom painted and detailed by Harry
Hieke; Overland UP FEF-1, 4-8-4, coal version, custom painted and
detailed by Harry Hieke; USH UP FEF-3, 4-8-4, mint, unpainted. Call
Harry Bender at 410-488-4259 between 6 and 9 pm Eastern time.
WANTED: Joe Fischer cars. American Standard hvywt baggage and
Pullmans. PSC 10 sect. Pullmans w/AC. Mail only, please. Jim Seacrest,
PO Box 6397, Lincoln, NE 68506-0397
WANTED: Lobaugh WWII era. Westbrook boxcars only. Ortl Ltd/AN
CB&Q waycars, 3 or 4 window RTR. Mail only, please. Jim Seacrest, PO
Box 6397, Lincoln, NE 68506-0397
WANTED: PSC PRR X29 boxcar #15467 and similar #15453, Pac Ltd 32
ARA boxcar #5000A, CN cabooses, Crown B&M ob boxcar, Reynolds
(Athearn) 50’ PRR and NKP 50’ boxcars. Mail only, please. Jim Seacrest,
PO Box 6397, Lincoln, NE 68506-0397
May 2006
Events
6: Merchantville, New Jersey
Cherry Valley Spring Train Meet, Cherry Valley Model RR Club will hold
its Spring Train Meet at Grace Episcopal Church, Maple Ave and Center
St, Merchantville, NJ, on Saturday, May 6th, from 9:30 am to 1:00 pm.
The Cherry Valley model railroad will be open after the meet. Admission
is $4, kids under 12 are free. For more info contact CVMRR, PO Box
192, Maple Shade NJ 08052 or call Harry Hieke, 856-625-5506. Contact
[[email protected]].
July 2006
2-8: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Independence Junction 2006 NMRA National Convention at the
Pennsylvania Convention Center, 1101 Arch St, Philadelphia, PA 19107,
215-418-4700.
19-22: Parsippany, New Jersey
2006 O Scale National Convention Sponsored by the New York Society
of Model Engineers, celebrating their 80th anniversary as the oldest
club in America. Convention held at the Hilton Hotel, One Hilton Ct,
Parsippany NJ 07054. Special room rate: $119 per night single or double
occp. Call 1-800-hiltons or register at the hilton website [http://www.
parsippany.hilton.com]. Full convention registration is $40 per person.
Tables are $40 each. See the convention website for more details. Call
201-939-9212, or email. Contact [[email protected]]
August 2006
5: Denver, Pennsylvania
Eastern O Scalers 2-Rail Swap Meet held at the Denver Fire Hall, 4th &
Locust Sts.– 9:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. Adm. $5; (spouses & children under
14 are free), $16.00 for the first table (includes one admission) and
$12.00 for each additional table. Dealer’s set-up Friday evening 6:00
p.m. to 9:00 p.m. and Saturday morning 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 a.m. Info/
reservations, SASE – EOS, PO Box 1781, Bensalem PA 19020; (215) 6393864. Bring an index card with your name, address etc., for $1.00 off
your admission. Contact: Contact [[email protected]].
September 2006
22-23: Indianapolis, Indiana
Indy O Scale Meet two day O Scale swap meet with over 250 tables in
one large hall. New and collectible 2-Rail trains and products available.
Intermountain, Key, Keystone, Max Gray, NJ Custom Brass, Overland,
Pacific Limited, PRB, Precision Scale, Sunset, US Hobbies... now
stocking Intermountain HO. The BrassRoundhouse.com. Phone: 727391-3135. John Clemens, 5273 97 Way N, St. Petersburg, FL 33708
FOR SALE: Massive collection brass engines, cars, cabooses. Over 300
car kits built and unbuilt, including Westside Big Boy, Sunset UP 9000,
Sunset GN S2 c/p, Sunset USRA Lt 2-8-2, USH F45, USH UP 2-8-0 c/p,
and more. Original boxes. Mint Condition. 580-243-7845 after 6 PM
CT, [email protected]
FREE O SCALE LIST: List of O Scale shows for 2006. Send LSSAE to Bob
Retallack, Dept OST06, 2224 Adner Ct, Columbus, OH 43220.
FOR SALE: USH NYC J3a Hudson, OMI PRR E8, Sunset Pacific Coast 3
truck Shay, Atlas WM SD-35, EL SW8, Weaver PRR RSD-12, PullmanBradley coaches two car set GM&O, CLW U25b. Bob Burns, 330-7581561
Also includes model contest and display layouts. Registration by August
15 gets custom name tag. Dealer tables $40 by 8/15/06, $45 after that
date. Admission $15 per person, good for both days. Contact Jim Canter
for more information: 1203 Rotherham Ln, Beech Grove, IN 46107, 317782-3322. Contact [[email protected]].
November 2006
4: Kirtland, Ohio
2-Rail Train Meet of the Western Reserve dedicated to the memory of
Gil Stovicek. Two-Rail only meet (no tinplate, Hi-Rail or other scales
allowed). Admission $5, under 12 free. Show hours from 9:30 AM to
2:30 PM. Six foot vendor tables are $35. Vendor entry Friday 1:00 PM
and Saturday 7:00 AM. Not affiliated with the former Western Reserve
O Scale Committee. Contact Bob Frieden, 440-256-8141. NO PASSES
ACCEPTED AT THIS MEET. Note: Out of towners call for special room
rates!
4: Wind Gap, Pennsylvania
Eastern O Scalers 2-Rail Swap Meet at the Plainfield Fire Hall, 6480
Sullivan Trail – 9:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. Adm. $5; (spouses & children
under 14 are free), $16.00 for the first table (includes one admission)
and $12.00 for each additional table. Dealer’s set-up Friday evening
6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. and Saturday morning 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 a.m.
Info/reservations, SASE – EOS, PO Box 1781, Bensalem PA 19020; (215)
639-3864. Bring an index card with your name, address etc., for $1.00
off your admission. Contact: Contact [[email protected]].
September 2007
20-22: Indianapolis, Indiana
2007 O Scale National Convention sponsored by the Indy “O” Scale
Meet and O Scale Trains Magazine. Held at the Indianapolis Marriott
East, 7202 East 21st St, Indianapolis. Rooms are $59 to $79 per night
with FREE parking. Three-day admission is $30. Tables are $40. We will
have 20,000 sq. ft of selling and display space for nothing but O Scale
trains! For more details contact Jim Canter, 317-782-3322, or Contact
[[email protected]].
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NKP-DLW, Wescott, Page, Pluto, Sou
6WDU&URZQ0H\HU5DWK¶VWilson
11K Tank Car 3R 52 4/205 Gulf,
MTH 2006 Vol I
Premier Steam
2-8-0 H10s PRR, LIRR, PRSL
645
Lt. Mikado B&O, GTW, Sou, UP 729
Dreyfuss Hudson 4 types
919
Climax PLC, Climax, TDC, WFI 1029
19th Century 2-8-0 Consolidation 639
3\URID[6KLSSHU¶V6XQUD\&$6SHQFHU
GN, WM, P&R, DRG, Unlettered
Col. Sou., Hooker, Solvay, Tank, USRA 2-8-2 Light Mikado
729
BN City Trailer 4-Pk 2R 240 3R 235
P&WV, C&A, NPR, L&N, NYC
¶,QWHUPRGDO)ODW55 Kanawha 2-8-4 K-4
1089
Erie, FEC, SF, WP, RG, Sou, Tex M, MEC
C&O, Southern, Unlettered
¶3LQHV7UDLOHUV
23.95 4/92 Premier Diesel
BN, CC&P, FEC, RG, Seabd System
Power $359
Dummy $142
¶)ODWZDQ\¶3LQHV SD90Mac CIT, CPR, NS
GP40 Alaska, PC, GT, Chessie
Atlas Track
3-6WDOO5RXQGKRXVH´/
152 GP38-2 KCS, MD Midland, SF, PLE
´0RWRUL]HG7XUQWDEOH SD40-2 IC, OC, MR, UP
Deck Bridge
2 or 3 Rail
79 DL-109 NH, MR, RI, SF
only $269
´%ULGJH 85 Dble 115 Add-on 32 DL-110 Power Unit
Remote Switch, Steel or Nickel 44.95 Power $385 Scale $399 Dmy $149
AC4400cw BNSF, CSX, SP, UP
O36 O45 O54 O72 Wye
#5 Double-Slip Switch
119 Dash 8 CNW, CSX, UP, NS
O72/O54 Curved Switch or #5
55 SD90Mac Am. or National League
7.5 (O81) High Speed Switch
58 ABA Set $605 Dummy B Unit $142
´5LJLG 11.00 Case (12) $125 Alco PA ABA DH, PRR, NH, RG
´)OH[&Rncrete 12.00
CS $135
F-7 ABA AK, BLE, N&W, PRR, CN
´RU2 2.95
Case (48) $135
FA-2 ABA B&O, E-L, L&N, SP&S
1 ¾ 4-3N´´
C-Liner ABA PRR, MR, CP, BO
1 ¾ Uncoupler 8.95 Under Table 12.00 Union Pacific Gas Turbine
919
Accessory Rails 8.95 Switch Machine 9
P2 Box Cab Electric 3x NYC, PC 635
GP60 Loco 2R 389
TMCC 409
NS (2), CSX, SP, UP Dummy 199
GP-35 2R 372 3R 395 Dmy 195
VO 1000 no snd 275 Cmd/EOB 319 B&O, CNW, Guil, RFP, RG, Hous.
(Rdg, BN, SP, SA, CN, 3R $349)
Rdg, PRR, SP, L&N, MR, WP, NP, Erie
Troop Pullman, Kitchen, Hospital 85 SD40 2-R 389 3-R 425 Dmy $209
GM&O, JC, N&W, PRR, SF, UP
Kitchen WM (2), US Army Trans, Und
Troop MOW Cars 4# no interiors 75 Erie-Built 2R 349 TMCC 389
KCS, NYC, PRR, SF Dmy 185 P/D 555
Kitchen Monon, N&W, CBQ, Guard
Hiawatha P/D Re-issue 3R 575
Sleeper WM (3) , PRR, C&O, N&W,
NYC, GTW, Erie, L&N, Lack SW Loco 3-R Pwr 339 Dmy 185 CR,
Troop Express Cars 4#
62 PC, EMD, Coors, C&S/SF, GN, PBNE
B&O TMCC 299
REA, C&O, NH, PRR, CN, N&W, NYC Custom SW
NKP L1a/L1b Hudson 939 Cmd 1039 Alco RS-1 TMCC 375 NH, SF, NP
N&W 8-wheel Cabin Cars
249 Rut, B&O, PRR, Susq, BR&W 385 O27 Curve
Class CF: Red Class CG: 2 Red, Blue ¶6WHHO5HEXLOW55 O36 Curve
3.30 3 Circles (24) 75
Specialty Sets
2.95 2 Circles (24) 68
BMT 2500 3-Car Pwr 399 Dmy 269
O45 Curve 3.30 2 Circles (24) 75
Rolling Stock
C&O, MP, SF, CN, EJ&E, PRR
709
O63 Curve 3.70 2 Circles (32) 114 SF F-3 Passenger Set
Plastic Trucks 28 Die-Cast Trucks 37 ¶;6WHHO%R[552 2R 56 O72 Curve 4.35 2 Circles (32) 132 PRR T-1 Express Mail Freight 1289
¶3OXJ'RRU%Rx E-L, NYC, MKT (2),
O81 Curve 5.10 1 Circle (16) 77 PRR T-1 FOM Passenger Set 1289
B&O, JC, LNE, SAL
GTW, Chessie (2), CV, NH, UP, CN ¶'EO'U%R[ 2R 57 3R 52 O90 Curve 6.25 1 Circle (16) 96
UP Big Boy PFE Freight Set
1379
¶3OXJ'RRU%R[
O99 Curve 6.90 1 Circle (16) 104 UP Big Boy Passenger Set
GN, ACL, C&NW, MKT, SP
1379
PRR, WM, CP, NH, Trans Lease, C&O
¶+\-Cube Box
2R 63 3R 59 Roadbed
PRR GG-1 Express Beer Train 715
¶36-1 Box NYC, TPW, MEC, N&W,
%DOODVW´7HUPLQDO
SF, NS, WP, Sou, UP/MP
Premier Freight 6-Car Sets 12#
PRR, CSS, MP, Rdg Blue Mtn, Frsico, PA
ACF 3-Bay Cyl Hopper 3R 52 2R 56 ´6WUDLJKWRU2-45, O-54, O-36 2.00 ¶$$5C&O, NYC, Rdg, SP 209
Steel Side Box
D&H, JC, WI, B&M
4.5,
5..5
straight
1.60
1
¾
4-Pk
4.80
EL, CSX, Cumberland, Hercules, USI
¶+L-Cube TTX, PRR, GTW, BN 219
3553´&RDFK-Pk 359
Grn Mtn, IC, SP, SL/SF, GTW, B&LE,
O-36, O-45, O-54
3.20 ¶:RRGVLGHNarragansett, Esslingers,
E/V Caboose 3R 59 Chessie, GN, IHB Switch
8# for $699 2 or 3-R 16# ¶6WHHO'EO'RRU ATSF, CP, PRR (2), RF&P, CR
Std Cupola N&W
Old Reading, Land O Lakes
219
NYC, N&W, C&O, Erie, L&N, WM
Brass Quality for 1/3 the Price
175
¶([SUHVV%R[ PRR, CN, CNJ, NH, ¶:RRG5HHIHU-R 55 3-R 52 ´)OH[7LQSODWH&V 215 Skeleton Log for all Climaxes
A&P, Bright Morning, Clicquot, Swift ´)OH[ Stainless Phantom Case
205
B&M, SP, Seabd, GTW, KCS, MR
249 ´'EO6KHDWK UP, CNW, SF
¶:RRG5HHIHU%UHZHU¶V-Pk 205 ´7LQ6ZLWFK0DQ5HP ¶6JO6KHDWK PRR, SP, WMD, MC 205
Fronts 11.95
Building Kits 24.95 Outside Braced Box MEC, NH, CB&Q,
Carling, Goetz, Grain Belt, Hillsboro
Above w/DZ-2500 TMCC $50
MR Gray, MR Red PS&N, B&M, WM
Premier Passenger Set
Acme Machine, Fire Station, Theatre,
Op. #108 24 Stream 5-Car 339 2-Car 137 Dome 69
USRA Sgl Sheath Box 3R 43 2R 46 RC Uncplr #107 $20
3ROLFH%LOO¶V3ODFH%XUNH¶V*URFHU\ ¶6WRFN Car DRGW, CP, CM&SP,
Stainless 19
CNW, MR, Wab, MOW: SP, PRR, S/Y Gantry Crane Track 17
T&P, Virginian, RI, Seaboard
Ribbed MR, D&H, NH
Café, Bank, S&L, Hardware
Now with Wood Ties
2-Bay Ribbed NH, MA-PA, USAF, NYC JC MOW, D&H, AA, Erie, PRR Lines
Smooth PRR, RG, NYC
Buildings 4/ $99 delivered
Montour, Peabody, Waddell, PMcK&Y 7RQ&RY¶G+RSSHU55 Circle 032/ $34 042/ $38 054/ $51 ¶:RRGVLGHG3-Car 215 Coach 75
443 Homestead Furniture 6 x 12 34.95 2-Bay Offset B&O, LV, CP, GBW, IC, Undec, NKP, UP, Burl, EL, SF, WM, SF 063/ $52 072/ $58 080/ $72 089/ $74
NYC, PRR, LI, B&O
Special Orders Not a Problem
¶&RPSRVLWH*RGROD55
Sou, LNE, N&W
2006 Vol I RailKing
S-Gauge
&
Standard
Gauge
In-Stock
B&M,
NYC,
PRR,
Sou,
SP
2-Bay
Composite
Rdg,
NPR,
PRR,
DD31 Far East Trading 99 Delivered
Scale Diesel Power 255 Dummy 115
DD26 Wrong Side of Tracks 4 kits 119 L&N, AA, MP, LV, Virginian, Southern USRA Dbl Sheath Box 3R 43 2R 46
DZ Products
SD-9 Chessie, CIM, DMIR, NPR, RG
3-Bay
Offset
IC,
Erie,
GTW,
CP,
Susq,
GN,
ACL,
Burl,
UP,
DSS&A,
''5DLQERZ%HYHUDJH´[´
1000 Switch Machine 18 SPDT Relay 9 C628 Conrail, LV, SF, UP
B&M, FEC, NYC, TH&B, Rutland DZ-1010 Crossing Gate Set
Fireworks , Apartment Building
59 CPR, SF, MP, BO, Blue Coal, CN, KCS
79 SD-45 PRR, Frisco, SF, Rdg CAT+15
3R 60
2R 63
%DFNJURXQG)ODWV´/[´' 4-Bay High Side R&N, GN, CBQ, MM, Caboose
DZ-1011 Block Signal Detectors
19 SD60 SF, NS, UP
NFL+15
IC,
NS,
NW,
CNW,
MKT,
B&O,
LN,
CN
EV Chessie, GN, IHB, RF&P, CR
2-Stall Engine House 139 Station 59
DZ-1020 Crossing Signal Set
52 NW-2 RG, PRR, Seabd, Mon HD +15
9-Pannel GTW, PRR (2), N&W, B&O, Std Cupola N&W
DZ-1030 Wigwag Signal Set
79 GP-20 NYC, SF, TC&W, UP
WM, VA, MEC, Rdg, NH, MR, T&P 8K Tank 3R 48 2R 52 Dow Chemical,
DZ-1200 Station Announcement 82
304 3-6WDOO5RXQGKRXVH´' 189 PS-2 CD Grain Hopper N&W, MR, AA
*OREH6KHOO6KLSSHU¶V&)6LPRQLQ¶V DZ-1220 Trolley Stop & Control 79 GP-9 ACL, N&W, CP, WP, Erie, JC
304A Xtra Stall or 304B Extender 45
Altoona Brewery w/Smoke
87
Lexan, GTW, Cargill, UP, MKT, FMC
Art. Auto Carriers 3R 99 2R 105
DZ-1240 Auto Stop & Reverse
38
305 Sandhouse, 16 x 6
39 PS-&RY¶G+RSSHU Amaizo, NS, IMCO,
TTX, UP, NS
DZ-1260
Water
Tower
Animator
36
306 Diesel Shed 25 x 11
85 LV, MEC, MM, AA, C of GA, LNE, CNJ
¶$LUVOLGH+RSSHU55
DZ-1265 Fueling Station Animator 38 ´,QWHUXUEDQ PRR, Reading 150
307 3-Stall Trolley Barn
85 4-Bay Centerflow Cargill, Pressureaide,
Chessie, Erie, GN, PC, Sou, CGW DZ-2500 TMCC Switch Machine 25
GTW, Shell, Corn, Stauffer, FMC, VT
315 Grain Silo, 7 x 19 x 22 H
69
Passenger Blow-Outs
¶(YDQV'EO3OXJ55
5RXQGKRXVH´'HHS
139 ¶)ODW&DU US Army (2), NH, Rutland,
2005 Volume II 1<&´-Pk 450 10-Pk 725
BN,
WC,
BMW,
FVP,
MNS
B&M, GN, WM, NP, Rdg, N&W
320A Stall add-on
45
SF Bi-level 6-Pk 499 Trans 2-Pk 160
J.L.C. Series
¶36-1 Box
2-R 56 3-R 54
902 Jaybar Corporation 6 x 8
23 Wood Side Reefer 29 DC 38 REA, NP, GMO, MP, GN, C&O, Erie, L&N, RF&P
83´-3N´´-Pk 165
C&O
Late
Allegheny
$1409
&20LG5DWK:HVFRWW,RZD6W0DU\¶V
903 Skyline Steel 6 x 8
23
&1:´%L-Pk 150 4-Cars 299
¶$$5%R[55
Brookside,
Carnation,
CM&SP,
CN
Scale
GG-1
Red-5,
Green-1
775
905 Blackshear Refrig. Transport 49
$PWUDN´-Pk $229 Save $270
NH, SP, Erie, Pere Marquette
¶7DQNDC
41
Amaizo,
Trusweet,
Scale
Steam
&
Electric
908 Shanahan Freight Company
67
6DQWH)H´%XVLQHVV&DU 85
2R 59 3R 56 11103 Southern PS-4 Pacific
Engelhard, Sunoco, SP, CGW (2), Cardox, 17K Tank Car
859
915 Quaker Foods 9 x 12
45
355RU6)´%XVLQHVV&DU
Occidental, Olin-Mathieson, PPG, SHPX
Kaolin, Cargill, Safety Kleen, Firestone
11105
NYC
L2a
Mohawk
939
916 Gen. Lt & Power, 12 x 48
93
2R 48
3R 46 18373 NYC S-2 Electric
¶7DQN32 DC 41 DuPont, Hooker, Pulpwood Flat
K-Line Scale Offerings
419
917 Gen Lt & Power Sub Station 32 Frost, Corn, Molasses, NH, CV, Staley
C&O, SF, W.MD, D&H, GM&O
Scale Rolling Stock
2-R Shay 595
2/$1100
Golden Gate Depot
Gargraves (USA)
Buildings Unlimited
Downtown Deco
Korber Models
K-Line Specials
Lionel
919 Acme Dye 6 x 9 x 9H
39
921 JLC Manufacturing
49
926 Switch Tower, Bay window 25
950 American Flag Co. 14 x 9
65
-RH¶V3LFNOH)DFWRUy 14 x 9
59
954 Buck Island Canning 8 x 12
49
956 James Company 13 x 8 x 9H 59
957 Lewis & Sons Machine 6 x 8 24
958 Mill Works 11 x 7 w/Tower 45
959 Midland Supply 2-Story 8 x 6 32
968 Jenco Freight Terminal 9 x 11 45
969 Gen Lt & Pwr Office 6x13x12 59
www.justrains.com
DC 38 PS-/6&RY¶G+RSSHU5 NYC Heavywt 3-PK 279
Coach 95
BN, Continental, ADM, B&M,Transport
96
05/9:D\QH¶V)HHG6)5*355 PS-2 Covered Hopper 3-Pk
SF, MKT, Boraxo, PRR
50
Ton
War
Hopper
3R
44
4/172
¶0HFKDQLFDO5HHIHU 30 DC 39
Stock Car C&O, N&W, MKT 46.50
CN, MEC, NW/MP, BN, UP, BAR, BNSF, GA, L&N Alton, Arbor, B&O, C&O
PA, Trop (5), MR, PFE, CNW, Snd + $15 PRR Exclusive 8# 49 4/190 8/370 PS-1 Boxcar Ches, RI, EL, Frisco 46
C&O Hopper 47 3-PK 96 6-Pk 190
New PRR War Bonds 2 # in-stock
Northeastern Caboose 37 DC 46
or U33C SF
372
PRR, NH, Rdg, CSS, CNW, CPR, MM, USRA 55 Ton Coal Hop 2R 46 3R 43 U30C CNW
GP-30 UP, CSX 337 Dummy 127
C&O, Lack, NH, P & Shaw
ICG, L&N, WM, MEC, US Army, Sou,
Rut, GTW, CN, CV, DWP, LNE, MR, LV NE-6 Caboose
2R 63
3R 59 Chessie Crane 269 Boom Car 162
NH, N&W, Conrail, NYS&W
Boom Car with Crane Sounds 162
¶)ODWZ$UP\/RDG 38 DC 47
UP, Conrail, SF, PRR, NYC
RoadRailers 35 DC 39 Triple Crown, ¶:RRG5HHIHU5
Amtrak, Swift, CN, Express Track, Ice
Atlas Beer, Phenix, Merchant, Bourke, Hot Box
SF, MDT
105
AC-2 Covered Hopper
29
C&O, WM, B&M, Lack, PRR, SP,
UP, N&W, Sou, NH, NS, L&N
Cold Express, Schneider
Cplr Mate $10
Fairmont, Nash, ART, Eatmor,
Reefer 3-PK 3#
PFE, NP, NW
96.00
Undec, Pac. Lumber, Lack Coal
Woodside Reefer 40 4/150 Del
Northwestern, PFE, Heinz Apple Butter,
Heinz Baked Beans, McLhaney,
Peacock, Oppenheimer, Nash Mustard,
Century Beer, Robin Hood Beer,
Merchants Biscuit Call for 2-R List
Transformers
MRC Dual Pure Power 270W 225
MRC Pure Power 135W
145
K-Line 120W Variable w/Fixed 75
MTH Z-4000 355 Lionel ZW 355
I am once again turning over my soap box to OST Editor
Brian Scace. I’ll talk atcha next time.
— Joe G.
O Scale Generations
I had a conversation with Mike Reagan, of Train America
Studios (TAS), the other day. For those of you who may not
know, TAS is the pioneer in 2-Rail installation of TMCC systems. Now, most of you know my personal aversion to the
command control systems that are out there today, though
I’m starting to wonder if perhaps my own personal feelings
are no longer germaine.
I know, by virtue of this magazine, that there is a pretty
fair number of people out there who use and enjoy command control in general. My mission (self-assigned) is to
explore the state of the art a bit, including options for more
general use of the “proprietary” systems, such as TMCC. To
this end, TAS has a couple of my Diesels; I just want to see
what the options are for the Diesel-era guys.
Bear in mind that Mike is a young man, especially compared to me. When he took TAS out to a couple of Nationals,
he came away feeling that O Scalers were pretty resistant to
TAS’ approach, and (to be honest) pretty resistant in general.
I fit squarely in that mold (big surprise, huh).
I told Mike that I, personally, liked TMCC from a user’s
standpoint. What I didn’t like was my inability to just go
to my hobby shop, buy a board, some wire, and a speaker
and toss ‘em in anything I owned. Mike said, “Why would
you want to do that? It’s my job.” That answer, to be honest,
floored me for a minute. After a bit of a pause, we started
talking about the differences in perspective. It became clear
to me that I had grossly underestimated a couple of points.
First, the complexity of the technology had passed me
by. Mike made it pretty clear that the configurations of his
boards, to accommodate the electronics that supported the
technology, required him to design enough varieties to support what became hundreds of combinations. The room
available dictated the configurations, and the complexities
involved real design work, not just Scace going a pickin’
what he thinks will suit. Once the configuration is designed
by the pros, then an owner can do his own installation.
The second point started coming into focus as the conversation went to the fact that there are at least two distinct generations in 2-Rail today, Mike’s and mine. We’re so very, very,
different. Mike’s reception at SONC was a bit unexpected,
because he saw nobody from his generation there, who are
the real users of his product. He met my generation instead,
who are pretty set in their ways and not given to change
them.
Mike’s generation doesn’t go to O Scale West, Chicago or
the National. They are the guys we were 30-odd years ago,
working a time-intensive career, paying a mortgage, wifeand-toddler. When I think about it from Mike’s perspective,
it’s pretty obvious that someone in that position doesn’t have
the time to spend wiring receivers and speakers, let alone
building kits, or scratchbuilding more than a very select one
or two “gotta-haves”. That’s not to say the talent isn’t there
(Mike is an accomplished scratchbuilder, for example.) The
priorities are, understandably, different. “Dear, I’m going
to the O Scale National and spend four days and a couple
grand. By the way, the kid needs to be changed.” Yeah, right.
My generation can be somewhat defined by my initial
inability to fathom Mike’s comment, “Why would you want
to do that? It’s my job!” I almost said that this was the way it’s
supposed to be done. I’m used to doing everything myself,
my own wiring, scratchbuilding rolling stock, buying unpainted engines and painting them myself. Detail this. Solder that.
“Mother, are you using my four-jaw chuck to hold the pantry
door open again?!” Many in my generation have a mental
block about a technology that we can’t “do ourselves”. I sure
do.
Mike’s generation grew up accepting what I could not.
They grew up in an era when the cutting edge in technology
moved with lightning speed. The advancement of capabilities is the goal. That pace is their norm, and so is someone
in a “tech-support” role to support that end. The result is,
for Mike and his peers, the market for ready-to-run stuff with
command electronics, and all that goes with it, is out there
and strong. You folks may not have the ready cash and time
(yet) that we do in my generation, but you’re a strong element of O Scale. You’ll only get stronger.
It’s easy to fall in the trap that our perspectives create for
us. We now have two generations so sharply bordered that
one hardly even knows the other exists. My generation never
sees Mike’s, so we start thinking O Scale is dying off. When
someone from Mike’s world sees my generation for the first
time, it has to be a bit of a shock.
I learned that, in spite of my best efforts, my approach
(and that of my generation) has created such a comfortable
environment for my O Scale psyche that I don’t really appreciate the needs, wants, and motivations (let alone the existence!) of the next generation of O Scalers. I’m also coming
to the realization that technology may have passed me by.
I’m not comfortable with either thought.
Don’t take this as a “why can’t we just get along” diatribe.
That’s not the intent. It’s probably enough to acknowledge
that the situation exists. Both perspectives are valid, for their
respective generations. We need to remember that, and
so do you. However, I think this exploration of command
options and, perhaps a little of the world of the younger generation of O Scalers, by an old O Scaler (who really didn’t
like the whole command system bit in the first place), is
going to be a lot of fun. I want to understand what you guys
are doing.
Maybe you can teach an old dog a new trick or two. u
ATLASOSCALE - Locomotives! Freight Cars! AVAILABLE NOW!
www.atlaso.com
ATLASOC424/425LOCOMOTIVE
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For more information on the X-29, go to:
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*CSX Licensed Product
To find an Atlas O dealer near you, go to http ://www.atlaso.com/locator/locator.asp or call 1-800-872-2521
For the NEW 2005/2006 Atlas O Scale Locomotive & Freight Car Catalog, please send $5 ($7 outside the US) to the address shown below.
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The most detailed O Scale model of the Late C&O Allegheny is here. This model has 8
operating sand hatches, 2 turret hatches, working cab windows, vents and apron. This
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37 South Fourth Street · Campbell, CA · 95008 · 408-866-1727 · fax 408-866-5674 · www.3rdrail.com

O Scale Trains Magazine

Transcription

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