Rimska Ljubljana

Legenda
Legend
Glavne točke ogleda
Main stops on the tour
Rimski ostanki ob poti
Roman remains along
the way
Ostale zanimive lokacije Other points of interest
1
Kongresni trg
Kongresni trg square
2
Kip Emonca / The
Emonan statue
3
iEmona (maketa in
virtualna rekonstrukcija
Emone) / iEmona
(model and virtual tour
of Emona)
4
Severna emonska vrata Northern town gate of
Emona
5
Rimski vodnjak / Roman
well
6
Obrambni stolp
Defensive tower
7
Mestni muzej Ljubljana
City Museum of Ljubljana
8
Nagrobnik družine
Kancijev / Tombstone of
the Cantii
9
Arheološki park
Emonska hiša / Emona
House Archaeological
Park
10
Rimski zid na Mirju
Roman wall in Mirje
11 Kloaka / Cloaca
12 Forum / Forum
13
Arheološki park
Zgodnjekrščansko
središče / Early
Christian Centre
Archaeological Park
14 Narodni muzej
Slovenije / National
Museum of Slovenia
15 Galerija Jakopič
Jakopič Gallery
16 Dolničarjev lapidarij
Dolničar Lapidarium
17
1
Turistični informacijski
center / Tourist
Information Centre
Kazalo
5
Vaš ogled Emone
Index
5
Your Tour of Emona
Koristne informacije za
7
načrtovanje ogleda
Kratka zgodovina
10
Emone
Useful Information for
9
Planning Your Tour
A Short History of
11
Emona
13
Življenje v Emoni
14
Life in Emona
17
Ogled Emone
17
Emona Tour
29
Če bi radi videli in
izvedeli še več
31
See and Learn More
Fotografija na naslovnici: Kopija pozlačenega bronastega kipa Emonca
v parku Zvezda na Kongresnem trgu. Originalni kip hrani Narodni muzej
Slovenije. / Cover Photo: A replica of the gilded bronze statue of an Emonan
citizen in the Kongresni trg square’s Zvezda Park. The original is kept at the
National Museum of Slovenia.
Fotografija na levi: Rimski zid na Mirju / The photo on the right: Roman wall
in Mirje
Izdajatelj: Turizem Ljubljana / Publisher: Ljubljana Tourism, Krekov trg 10,
SI-1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia, T: +386 (0)1 306 45 83, F: +386 (0)1 306 45 94, E:
[email protected], W: www.visitljubljana.com
Besedilo: Dr. Bernarda Županek / Text by: Bernarda Županek PhD
Fotografije: / Photos by: Sašo Habič, Matevž Paternoster, Aljoša Rebolj, Dunja
Wedam, dokumentacija MGML/MGML archives
Redakcija besedila in prevod / Content editing and translation: Patricija
Fajon
Postavitev in priprava za tisk / Typesetting and prepress: Studio DTS
Tisk / Printed by: Collegium Graphicum d.o.o.
Naklada: 3.000 izvodov / Print run: 3.000 copies
Ljubljana, april 2013 / Ljubljana, April 2013
www.visitljubljana.com
2
3
4
5
Do
Ex živ
pe ite
rie Em
nc
on
e
Em o!
on
a!
Vaš ogled Emone
Your Tour of Emona
Ta vodič vam ponuja priložnost, da med uro do dve dolgim
sprehodom po mirnen in prijetnem jugozahodnem delu
mestnega središča Ljubljane spoznate, kakšno je bilo življenje
v majhnem, a za rimski imperij strateško pomembnem
mestecu Emona, ki je bilo na tem mestu zgrajeno pred dvema
tisočletjema.
Med sprehodom si poleg niza drobnih rimskih ostankov, vtkanih v
kasnejšo arhitekturo mesta, lahko ogledate eno daljših ohranjenih
rimskih mestnih obzidij severno od Apeninskega polotoka, dva
arheološka parka, ki osvetljujeta življenje in kulturo bivanja
emonskih Rimljanov, od pomladi leta 2014 do pomladi leta 2015
pa tudi atraktivno razstavo o Emoni in njenem mestu znotraj
rimskega imperija, ki jo ob dvatisoči obletnici nastanka Emone
pripravlja Mestni muzej Ljubljana, ki v svojih kletnih prostorih
stalno razstavlja tudi prav tam najdene ostanke rimskega mesta.
This guide offers you an opportunity to learn, during a one
to two-hour stroll through the pleasant and peaceful southwestern part of Ljubljana city centre, what life was like in the
Roman Empire’s small yet strategically important city of Emona,
which was built there two thousand years ago.
During the stroll, which takes you past an array of fragmentary
Roman remains woven into the city’s architectural fabric of
a later date, you can see one of the longer Roman city walls
preserved north of the Italian Peninsula, visit two archaeological
parks offering an insight into the daily life and quality of living
of the Romans in Emona, and, from spring 2014 to spring 2015,
view an attractive exhibition on Emona and its place within the
Roman Empire set up in celebration of the 2000th anniversary of
the foundation of Emona by the City Museum of Ljubljana, whose
basement permanent exhibition rooms house several remains of
the Roman city found right there, beneath the museum building.
»Ob novici, da se bližaš, se je vdana Emona brez oklevanja
vsula skozi odpahnjena mestna vrata in ti pritekla nasproti ...
Nasproti so ti šle trume plesalcev; vse je odmevalo od petja
in kastanjet. … Kaj bi omenjal slavnostni shod svobodnega
plemstva pred obzidjem? Mestne očete, sijajne v svojih belih
oblačilih? Duhovnike, častitljive v uradnem škrlatu? ... Pa
mestna vrata, ovenčana s kitami zelenja? Ceste, valujoče od
preprog, in dan, še svetlejši zaradi prižganih bakel?”
»On the news of your approach, your loyal Emona poured,
without ado, through the unbolted city gate and ran to meet
you halfway ... There were swarms of dancers running across
to you, the air reverberating with singing and castanet rattle.
... Not to mention the festive assembly of the free nobility in
front of the city wall. The city fathers magnificent in their white
garments. Venerable priests dressed in official purple. ... The city
gate festooned with garlands of greenery, roads rippled with
carpets, and the day made even brighter by fire-lit torches.«
Dobrodošli v Emoni!
Odlomek iz hvalnice cesarju Teodoziju I, prebrane pred
senatom v Rimu leta 389, v letu po cesarjevem obisku Emone
(prev. Nada Grošelj).
Welcome to Emona!
An excerpt from the ode to the emperor Theodosius I read
to the Roman Senate in 389, within the year following the
emperor’s visit to Emona (translated from Nada Grošelj’s
Slovenian translation).
Rimska čaša iz mozaičnega stekla, iz zbirke MGML / Roman mosaicglass goblet, kept at the MGML
Ostanki sobe s hipokavstom, talnim mozaikom in stensko fresko
v Arheološkem parku Emonska hiša / The remains of a room
with a hypocaust, floor mosaic and fresco at the Emona House
Archaeological Park
6
7
Koristne informacije za
načrtovanje ogleda
Ogled vodi po mirnem, zelenem delu Ljubljane, le nekaj
minut hoda od srednjeveškega mestnega jedra pod grajskim
gričem. Ponuja priložnost za prijeten in lagoden sprehod,
primeren tudi za družine z majhnimi otroki. Do vseh glavnih
točk ogleda, navedenih spodaj, pa tudi do drobnih ostankov
rimske zgodovine, mimo katerih se boste sprehodili na poti med
glavnimi znamenitostmi, je mogoče dostopati z otroškimi in
invalidskimi vozički.
1 |Kongresni trg
Informacijska točka Emone (iEmona) v hodniku podzemne
garaže Kongresni trg, ki vključuje maketo in virtualno
rekonstrukcijo urbanega razvoja Emone, je odprta vsak dan
od 9.00 do 21.00, od maja do oktobra do 22.00. Ostale rimske
znamenitosti na trgu si lahko ogledate ob katerem koli času.
7 |Mestni muzej Ljubljana
Gosposka ulica 15, www.mgml.si
Muzej je odprt od torka do nedelje od 10.00 do 18.00, ob
četrtkih do 21.00. Vstopnica za muzej omogoča tudi vstop v dva
arheološka parka, ki ju lahko obiščete v okviru ogleda.
9 |Arheološki park Emonska hiša
Mirje 4, www.mgml.si
Ogled parka je možen vsak dan od 10.00 do 18.00. Za vstop je
potrebna vstopnica Mestnega muzeja Ljubljana, ki jo je mogoče
kupiti tudi v ljubljanskih Turističnih informacijskih centrih. Park ima
WC. V zimskem delu leta so občutljivejši arheološki ostanki zaščiteni.
10 |Rimski zid na Mirju
Območje rimskega zidu na Mirju je javno mestno sprehajališče,
zato si je mogoče obzidje in rimske ostanke ob njem brezplačno
ogledati ob katerem koli času.
13 |Arheološki park Zgodnjekrščansko središče
Erjavčeva cesta 18, www.mgml.si
Ogled parka je možen vsak dan od 10.00 do 18.00. Za vstop je
potrebna vstopnica Mestnega muzeja Ljubljana, ki jo je mogoče
kupiti tudi v ljubljanskih Turističnih informacijskih centrih. Park ima
WC. V zimskem delu leta so občutljivejši arheološki ostanki zaščiteni.
17 |Turistični informacijski center na Stritarjevi ulici
Telefon: 01 306 12 15. Faks: 01 306 12 04.
E-pošta: [email protected]. Spletna stran: www.visitljubljana.com.
Če bi si najznamenitejše ostanke Emone raje kot sami ogledali
z vodičem, obiščite osrednji ljubljanski Turistični informacijski
center, kjer lahko naročite večeren ogled ob baklah pod
vodstvom kostumiranih slovensko ali angleško govorečih
vodičev, hkrati pa se oskrbite z informacijami o prireditvah,
povezanih s praznovanjem dvatisoče obletnice nastanka Emone.
8
Useful Information for
Planning Your Tour
The tour takes you through a peaceful, green part of Ljubljana,
just a few minutes walk from the medieval urban core at the
foot of the castle hill. It offers an opportunity for a nice leisurely
walk, suitable also for families with small children. All the main
points of interest, listed below, as well as the fragmentary
remains of Roman history that you will pass on your way
between the major attractions, are accessible to wheelchair and
pushchair users.
1 |Kongresni trg square
The iEmona information point, located in a corridor of the Kongresni
trg square’s underground parking garage, where you can see a
model of Emona and take a virtual tour of its urban development,
is open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., from May till October to 10 p.m.
The square’s other Roman attractions can be viewed at any time.
7 |City Museum of Ljubljana
Gosposka ulica 15, www.mgml.si
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.,
Thursday to 9 p.m. The museum ticket also entitles you to
admission to the two archaeological parks included in this tour.
9 |Emona House Archaeological Park
Mirje 4, www.mgml.si
The park is open for viewing daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. To
enter, you need a ticket to the City Museum of Ljubljana,
available also from the city’s Tourist Information Centres. The
park has toilet facilities. During winter time, the more sensitive
archaeological remains are covered for protection.
10 |Roman wall in Mirje
The Roman wall area in the Mirje quarter of Ljubljana is a public
park, so the wall and the Roman remains next to it can be
viewed free of charge at any time.
13 |Early Christian Centre Archaeological Park
Erjavčeva cesta 18, www.mgml.si
The park is open for viewing daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. To
enter, you need a ticket to the City Museum of Ljubljana,
available also from the city’s Tourist Information Centres. The
park has toilet facilities. During winter time, the more sensitive
archaeological remains are covered for protection.
17 |Tourist Information Centre in the Stritarjeva ulica street
Telephone: +386 (0)1 306 12 15. Fax: +386 (0)1 306 12 04.
Email: [email protected]. Website: www.visitljubljana.com.
If you would prefer to take a guided rather than a self-guided tour
of the most famous remains of Emona, visit Ljubljana’s central
Tourist Information Centre, where you can book a torch-lit evening
9
Kratka zgodovina Emone
Nastanek mesta Emona, ki je svoj razcvet doživljalo med
1. in 5. stoletjem našega štetja, je povezan z rimskimi osvajanji
Balkana v drugi polovici 1. stoletja pred našim štetjem, ki jih
je vodil rimski vojskovodja Oktavijan, kasnejši cesar Avgust.
Na območju, kjer sta se malone stikali pomembna rimska
cesta proti Balkanu in plovna reka Ljubljanica, ki je bila vse od
prazgodovine pa do uvedbe železnice pomembna trgovska
pot med severnim Jadranom in Podonavjem, so arheologi med
drugim odkrili sledove lesenega rimskega vojaškega tabora,
zgrajenega v začetku 1. stoletja. Ena od nalog vojakov, ki so
bivali v njem, je bila verjetno izgradnja kolonije Emone, mesta,
ki bi služilo kot upravno, politično, gospodarsko in kulturno
središče obširnega ozemlja, ki je zavzemalo približno šestino
površine današnje Slovenije.
Ko je bila Emona v začetku 1. stoletja zgrajena, so vanjo naselili
koloniste, večinoma iz severne Italije. Del emonskega upravnega
območja so premerili in razdelili na kmetijska posestva, ki so
jih dobili v last kolonisti. Tako kot v večini rimskih mest je bilo
kmetijstvo osnovna dejavnost prebivalstva in lastništvo zemlje je
pomenilo glavni vir bogastva in družbenega ugleda.
Mesto je delovalo v skladu z rimsko politično ureditvijo. Imelo
je dva načelnika, mestni svet ter letno voljene sodnike in
uradnike, ki so skrbeli za vzdrževanje javnih zgradb, izdajali
uredbe v zvezi z javnimi praznovanji ter vzdrževali red in mir.
Na uradne položaje so bili lahko izvoljeni le Emonci z rimskim
državljanstvom, ki so praviloma izhajali iz vrst privilegirane
premožne elite.
V času rimskega mnogoboštva so v mestu častili rimsko
kapitolsko trojico Jupitra, Junono in Minervo, zraven pa tako kot
drugod po imperiju še vrsto drugih bogov, vključno z lokalnim
vodnim bogom Laburusom in boginjo Ekorno. Od poznega 4.
stoletja naprej, ko je v Emoni doživljalo razcvet krščanstvo, je
bilo mesto sedež škofije, ki je imela živahne stike z milanskim in
akvilejskim cerkvenim krogom.
Zaradi svoje lege je Emona ves čas svojega obstoja igrala
pomembno vlogo v vojaškem obrambnem sistemu rimskega
imperija. Njena vloga je bila še posebej ključna od poznega
3. stoletja naprej, ko je bila prva večja postojanka v zaledju
novozgrajene obrambne linije čez Alpe, ki je srce imperija,
Apeninski polotok, varovala pred vdori z vzhoda.
Od 4. stoletja naprej sta se rimski imperij in z njim tudi Emona
soočala z vrsto sprememb, ki so leta 476 privedle do razpada
zahodnega rimskega imperija. Oblast je postajala vedno bolj
decentralizirana, upravni sistem vse trhlejši, komunikacija med
posameznimi deli imperija pa vse slabša. Hkrati je vse bolj rasla
moč zgodnjekrščanske Cerkve in skrb za posvetne zadeve,
vključno z razvojem in vzdrževanjem mestne infrastrukture,
je bila potisnjena v drugi plan. V takšnih okoliščinah, ki so jih
dodatno oteževali vdori barbarskih plemen, je življenje v Emoni
po prvi polovici 6. stoletja zamrlo.
tour led by costumed Slovenian and English-speaking guides and
obtain information about the events in celebration of the 2000th
anniversary of the foundation of Emona.
A Short History of Emona
The origins of the city of Emona, which flourished from the 1st
to the 5th century AD, are related to the Roman conquest of
the Balkans in the second half of the 1st century BC under the
Roman army commander Octavian (later Emperor Augustus).
On an area of land where an important Roman road to the
Balkans almost touched the navigable river Ljubljanica, a major
trading route between the Adriatic Sea and the Danubian basin,
archaeologists found, among other things, traces of a wooden
Roman military encampment built at the beginning of the 1st
century AD. One of the assignments of the soldiers who lived
there was probably the building of the colony of Emona, a city
to serve as the administrative, political, economic and cultural
centre of a vast territory stretching across about one sixth of
the area covered by the present Slovenia.
When Emona was built at the beginning of the 1st century,
it was settled with colonists, mainly from northern Italy. Part
of its administrative territory was measured and divided into
agricultural estates, which were then given to the colonists
to keep. Like in most Roman cities, agriculture was the main
industry and land ownership the principal source of wealth and
social prestige.
The city was regulated in accordance with the Roman political
system. It had two chief magistrates, a city council and
annually elected magistrates and officials responsible for the
maintenance of public buildings, regulation of public festivals,
and the enforcement of public order. Official positions were
reserved for the holders of Roman citizenship, who as a rule
belonged to the city’s wealthy elite.
During the time when polytheism was the order of the day,
Emonans worshipped the Capitoline triad of Jupiter, Juno and
Minerva, and, like the Romans elsewhere across the Empire, a
large number of other deities, including the local god of water
Laburus and the local goddess Equrna. From the late 4th
Streljanje s katapultom v parku ob rimskem zidu na Mirju v okviru
Muzejske poletne noči / Catapult shooting in the park next to the
Roman wall in Mirje as part of a Museums on a Summer Night event
10
11
Življenje v Emoni
Najživahnejši del rimske Emone je bil njen osrednji trg, forum.
Med mestnim templjem na njegovi zahodni strani in veliko
sodno-upravno zgradbo na vzhodni so forum obrobljale arkade
s trgovinicami, kjer se je živahno kupčevalo z uvoženim blagom,
ki so ga trgovci v mesto tovorili z vozovi, še raje pa s čolni
po Ljubljanici, saj je bil rečni prevoz v rimskem času nekajkrat
cenejši od cestnega.
Forumske trgovinice so prodajale uvoženo namizno keramiko
s kakovostnim rdečim premazom, fino stekleno in kovinsko
posodje, nakit iz jantarja, dišave, začimbe in dragocene tkanine
iz daljnih dežel. Na police emonskih trgovin so v amforah
potovali vino, olje, olive, ribje omake, ostrige in posušeni
dateljni, na forumske stojnice pa so iz mestnega zaledja vozili
sveže pridelano hrano, pletene košare ter posodje, izdelano v
predmestni lončarski četrti.
Med trgovinicami so bili posejani obrtniški lokali, pekarne in
gostilne. Slednje so meščanom ponujale preproste jedi za
prigrizek sredi dneva, obenem pa prostor, kjer so lahko pili,
razpravljali o politiki in premlevali dnevne dogodke.
V javnih stavbah ob forumu so od jutranjih ur do popoldneva
tekle seje mestnega sveta, sodniške razprave, poslovni razgovori
in različna praznovanja in ceremonije. Na tlakovani forumski
ploščadi, okrašeni s kipi cesarja in uglednih meščanov, so
Emonci prebirali razstavljene državne odloke in zakone ter se
zabavali na atletskih tekmovanjih, gledaliških predstavah in
gladiatorskih igrah.
Nepogrešljiv del vsakodnevnega družabnega življenja skoraj
vseh meščanov, od bogatih zemljiških posestnikov na uglednih
uradniških položajih do malih obrtnikov, trgovcev in čolnarjev,
je bilo popoldansko druženje v javnih kopališčih, po kopanju pa
uživanje ob doma pripravljenem glavnem dnevnem obroku v
družbi sorodnikov, prijateljev ali uglednih znancev.
Na jedilniku revnejših Emoncev so bile najpogosteje različne
žitne kaše, zelje, stročnice in najrazličnejše vrste z začimbami
potresenega kruha, za praznike pa tudi šunka, kokoš ali jagnje.
Premožnejši Emonci so poleg stročnic in žitaric ter cele vrste
sadja, zelenjave in oreščkov redno uživali tudi govedino, svinjino,
perutnino, ribe in divjačino. Glavni dnevni obrok so zaužili
sede, v bogatejših hišah z obednicami pa leže na oblazinjenih
klopeh, ki so bile v obliki podkve postavljene okoli majhne
mize, na katero so sužnji z odprte strani prinašali jedi. Krožnike
in skledice z jedmi so pri obedu držali v levi roki, jedli pa so
večinoma s prsti desnice. Od pribora so uporabljali le večje ali
manjše žlice, navadno s tankim, koničastim ročajem, ki je lahko
služil tudi kot nekakšna vilica. Tako pri bogatih kot pri revnih je
bila na mizi vselej tudi posoda, v kateri so vino mešali z vodo,
nato pa ga z zajemalkami nalivali v čaše. Pitje nerazredčenega
vina je veljalo za barbarsko.
Ker uživanje glavnega dnevnega obroka v rimskem času ni
bilo le stvar zadovoljevanja lakote, ampak je bilo v veliki meri
namenjeno utrjevanju sorodstvenih, prijateljskih in družbenih
century onwards, when Christianity began to flourish in Emona,
the city was the seat of a diocese, which had extensive contacts
with the ecclesiastical circles in Milan and Aquileia.
Due to its geographical position, Emona played an important role
in the military defence system of the Roman Empire. Its role was
particularly crucial from the 3rd century onwards, when Emona
was the nearest large stronghold to the newly built defensive line
across the Alps, which protected the heart of the Roman Empire,
the Italian Peninsula, from incursions from the east.
From the 4th century onwards, the Roman Empire, and
consequently Emona, were facing major changes which led
to the disintegration of the Western Roman Empire in 476:
the governance was becoming increasingly decentralized;
the communication between individual parts of the Empire
was gradually deteriorating; the system of administration was
weaker and weaker. At the same time, the power of the early
Christian Church was on the rise and concern for worldly
matters, including the maintenance of urban infrastructure, was
pushed to the bottom of the agenda. In such circumstances,
exacerbated by incursions by barbarian tribes, in the first half of
the 6th century the life of Emona came to an end.
Life in Emona
The most vibrant part of the Roman city of Emona was its
central square, the forum. Between the city temple on its
western end and the large judicial and administrative building
on its east side, the forum was lined with colonnades of shops,
places of lively trading in imported goods freighted to Emona
by wagon or, preferably, by boat along the river Ljubljanica as
in Roman times river transport was several times cheaper than
transport by road.
The forum’s little shops sold table ceramics coated with a
high-quality red glaze, fine glassware and metal vessels, amber
jewellery, fragrances, spices and precious fabrics imported
from faraway lands. The shop shelves were stocked with wine,
oil, olives, fish sauces, oysters and dried dates transported to
Emona in amphoras. The forum’s stalls were piled with goods
supplied from the city’s surrounding areas, including fresh farm
Trgovinice ob emonskem forumu (avtor: Katarina Taman Kracina)
The Emona forum’s little shops (by Katarina Taman Kracina)
12
13
Rimska prireditev Muzejski duhovi oživijo / Roman-themed Museum
ghosts came to life event
vezi, je bilo pripravi hrane posvečene veliko pozornosti. Iz
zapisov o tem, kako so jedli premožni Rimljani, je razvidno, da
več ko je bilo na mizi nenavadnih jedi in bolj ko so bile raznolike
in drage njihove sestavine, večji ugled je užival gostitelj. Jedi so
bile začinjene s celo vrsto svežih zelišč in dragocenih uvoženih
začimb, njihov okus pa so dodatno prekrivale najrazličnejše
začimbne omake. Veliko jedi, tudi mesnih in ribjih, je bilo
oslajenih z medom, dateljni, rozinami in različnimi vrstami bolj
ali manj sladkega vina. Če je verjeti pisnim virom iz rimskega
obdobja, so za vrhunec kulinarične umetnosti veljale jedi, katerih
sestavin ni bilo mogoče ugotoviti ne na pogled, ne po vonju in
ne po okusu.
14
produce, wicker baskets, and earthenware made in the potters’
quarter just outside the city.
The forum’s shops were interspersed with craftsmen’s
workshops, bakeries, and simple restaurants where Emonans
would go for a quick mid-day snack or to discuss politics and
the events of the day over a drink.
From early morning till mid-afternoon, city council sessions,
trials, business meetings, and various celebrations and
ceremonies were held in the public buildings lining the forum.
The forum’s paved central area, adorned with statues of the
emperor and distinguished citizens, was where imperial decrees
were posted for Emonans to read, and athletic competitions,
theatre performances and gladiator games were held for them
to enjoy.
An indispensable part of the everyday social life of almost all
the city’s residents, from rich landowners holding high official
positions to small craftsmen, merchants and bargemen, was
afternoon socializing at the public baths, followed by the
enjoyment of the main meal of the day, prepared at home and
savoured in the company of relatives, friends or distinguished
acquaintances.
The diet of poorer Emonans mainly included various kinds of
porridge, cabbage, legumes, different types of bread sprinkled
with herbs and spices, and, on feast days, ham, chicken or lamb.
Legumes and cereals were also eaten by wealthier Emonans,
but they also regularly consumed a wide variety of fruits,
vegetables and nuts, as well as beef, pork, poultry, fish, and
game. The main meal of the day was usually taken sitting or,
in wealthier houses with dining rooms, reclining on cushioned
benches arranged in a U-shape around a small table where
dishes were served by slaves approaching from the open side.
Plates and bowls were held in the left hand and most dishes
were eaten with the fingers of the right hand. The only pieces of
cutlery were differently sized spoons, usually with a thin pointed
handle, which could also be used as a kind of fork. Both on the
rich and poor people’s tables there was always a vessel in which
wine was mixed with water before being ladled into goblets.
The drinking of undiluted wine was considered to be barbaric.
As in Roman times the consumption of the main meal of the
day was not just a means of satisfying hunger, but was also
largely intended to strengthen kinship, friendship and other
social ties, a lot of attention was paid to the preparation of
food. The records of the eating habits of wealthy Romans
suggest that the larger the number of unusual dishes served
as part of a meal and the more diverse and expensive their
ingredients, the higher was the prestige enjoyed by the host.
Roman food was seasoned with a huge array of fresh herbs
and precious imported spices, and its taste was additionally
concealed by all kinds of spicy sauces. A large number of
dishes, including those based on meat and fish, were sweetened
with honey, dates, raisins, and various more or less sweet wines.
If the written sources of the period are to be believed, it was
considered to be an indication of the highest achievement in
culinary art if it was impossible to tell, either by sight, smell or
taste, what the ingredients of a dish were.
15
Ogled Emone
1 |Kongresni trg
Sprehod po rimski Ljubljani začnite v zahodnem delu parka
Zvezda na Kongresnem trgu, pri 2 pozlačenem bronastem
kipu Emonca na visokem kamnitem stebru, ki stoji v bližini enih
od mestnih vrat, skozi katera so v Emono vstopali Rimljani. V
obzidano in z dvema obrambnima jarkoma zavarovano mesto
so z glavnih strani neba vodile pomembne rimske ceste, vzdolž
katerih so Emonci pokopavali mrtve in postavljali nagrobne
spomenike z napisi, ki so nagovarjali mimoidoče in jih opominjali
na minljivost življenja. Kip Emonca, ki izvira z začetka 2.
stoletja in upodablja premožnega, v elegantno nagubano
togo oblečenega meščana, je del enega takšnih nagrobnih
spomenikov z grobišča pred severnimi emonskimi vrati, kjer so
arheologi na razdalji slabega kilometra in pol vzdolž vpadnice v
mesto odkrili več kot tri tisoč rimskih grobov. V starejših so našli
steklene žare, amfore ali kamnite skrinje s pepelom, v katerih so
bili tudi drobni osebni predmeti, novci, oljne svetilke in posode
s hrano za na pot v onstranstvo. V obdobju po 3. stoletju,
ko so Rimljani začeli opuščati sežiganje mrtvih, pa so umrle
med drugim pokopavali tudi v kamnite sarkofage z grobnimi
pridatki. Eden od njih je skupaj z ostanki zidu predmestne
rimske stavbe na ogled ob kipu Emonca.
Zdaj je čas, da vstopite v mesto. Za lažjo predstavo o tem,
kakšna je bila videti Emona, se od kipa Emonca spustite v
hodnik podzemne garaže Kongresni trg in se mimo ostankov
rimskega pločnika, ki je potekal ob severni cesti v mesto,
sprehodite do informacijske točke, imenovane iEmona, kjer sta
na ogled 3 maketa Emone in virtualna rekonstrukcija njenega
urbanega razvoja. Kot je razvidno iz makete in rekonstrukcije, je
bila Emona zgrajena znotraj pravokotnega obzidja velikosti 523 x
435 metrov in je imela sistem pravokotno križajočih se cest, med
Kopija pozlačenega bronastega kipa Emonca / A replica of the
gilded bronze statue of an Emonan citizen
Emona Tour
1 |Kongresni trg square
Begin your tour of Roman Ljubljana in the western part of the
Kongresni trg square’s Zvezda Park, next to the 2 gilded bronze
statue of an Emonan citizen standing on top of a tall stone
column in the vicinity of one of the gates used by the Romans
to enter the city. Emona, walled and further protected by two
moats, was served by important Roman roads leading from the
four cardinal directions. Along these roads, Emonans buried their
dead and erected sepulchral monuments bearing inscriptions
addressing passers-by and reminding them of the transient
nature of life. The Emonan statue, dating back to the beginning
of the 2nd century and depicting a wealthy citizen dressed
in an elegantly folded toga, is part of one of the sepulchral
Informacijska točka iEmona / the iEmona information point
Maketa Emone, iz zbirke MGML / Model of Emona, kept at the MGML
16
17
Severna emonska vrata / Northern town gate of Emona
monuments from the burial ground located in front of the
northern town gate of Emona, where archaeologists discovered
more than three thousand Roman graves alongside a less than
a one-kilometre section of the northern approach road to the
city. In the older graves they found glass urns, amphoras or stone
chests containing ashes, small personal objects, coins, oil lamps
and pottery with food for the journey to the afterlife, while the
graves dating from after the 3rd century, when the Romans
began to abandon the custom of cremating the dead, contained,
among other things, stone sarcophagi with grave goods. One
of the sarcophagi, along with the remains of a wall of a Roman
suburban house, is on view next to The Emonan statue.
It is now time for you to enter the city. To get a notion of what
Emona looked like, follow the path leading past The Emonan to
the corridor of the Kongresni trg square’s underground parking
garage and turn left next to the remains of a Roman pavement
which lined the northern road to Emona. There you will find
the iEmona information point, where you can see a 3 model
of Emona and take a virtual tour of its urban development. As
Zidan rimski vodnjak ob vhodu v garažno hišo Kongresni trg Stone-built Roman well next to a pedestrian entrance to the
Kongresni trg parking garage
Levo: Kongresni trg / Left: Kongresni trg square
18
19
katerimi so bile stavbne površine, v sredini pa velik osrednji trg.
Hodnik, v katerem je informacijska točka Emone, je povezan
s prostorom, kjer so na ogled delno ohranjena 4 severna
emonska vrata. Na jugovzhodnem robu parka Zvezda stoji
ob vhodu v podzemno garažo 5 zidan rimski vodnjak, eden
takšnih, kakršne so v Emoni uporabljali tudi še po napeljavi
mestnega vodovoda v 2. stoletju.
Pot proti naslednji točki ogleda, Mestnemu muzeju Ljubljana,
nadaljujte po Vegovi ulici, vzdolž katere je v rimskih
časih potekalo vzhodno mestno obzidje Emone, v času
srednjeveške Ljubljane, ki je ležala pod grajskim gričem
vzhodno od Emone, pa zahodno mestno obzidje, ki so ga
v 13. stoletju zgradili na temeljih rimskih zidov. Še danes je
ohranjen polkrožen srednjeveški 6 obrambni stolp, zgrajen
na pravokotnih temeljih rimskega stolpa, rimski zid pa je
bil kot gradbeni element uporabljen tudi vse do prvega
nadstropja niza hiš med obrambnim stolpom in stavbo
Narodne in univerzitetne knjižnice.
7 |Mestni muzej Ljubljana
Mestni muzej Ljubljana, ki stoji v neposredni bližini nekdanjih
vzhodnih emonskih mestnih vrat, v okviru stalne razstave
o zgodovini Ljubljane v svojih kletnih prostorih predstavlja
ostanke pomembne rimske ceste, ki je iz Emone vodila na
vzhod proti Balkanu in je bila izdelana v makadamski tehniki.
Poleg ceste so razstavljeni ostanki rimske obcestne gostilnice
s krušno pečjo in lončenim posodjem ter kloake, ki je mestne
odplake odvajala v reko Ljubljanico. Vsi omenjeni ostanki so bili
najdeni pod muzejem ob njegovi prenovi na prelomu stoletja.
V muzeju si od pomladi leta 2014 do pomladi leta 2015 lahko
ogledate tudi zanimivo tematsko razstavo ob dvatisoči
obletnici ustanovitve Emone. Razstava je zasnovana na
temo nastanka in razvoja Emone ter njenega mesta znotraj
rimskega imperija.
Ko boste odhajali iz muzeja, si lahko na fasadi baročne
križevniške cerkve ogledate 8 nagrobnik nekaterih članov
družine Kancijev. Nagrobnik te ugledne emonske družine, ki se
je v mesto priselila iz Akvileje, je bil odkrit v začetku 18. stoletja
ob kopanju temeljev za cerkev. Iz latinskega napisa na njem je
med drugim razvidno, da so si Rimljani dali izdelovati nagrobne
kamne in spomenike še za časa svojega življenja.
Pot do naslednje točke ogleda, Arheološkega parka Emonska
hiša, vodi mimo lokacije, kjer je bilo odkrito javno kopališče,
katerega ostanki so zaenkrat predstavljeni le v okviru virtualne
predstavitve Emone v hodniku podzemne garaže Kongresni
trg. Rimska javna kopališča so bila praviloma velike zgradbe,
ki jih je imela v lasti država ali mestna uprava, vstop pa je bil
brezplačen. Običajno so imela štiri dele: potilnico, bazen s
toplo vodo za spiranje potu, bazen z mrzlo vodo za osvežitev
ter prostor za masažo in telovadbo. Obiskovanje kopališč je
bilo za Rimljane tudi nepogrešljiv način druženja ob klepetu
in družabnih igrah, ki si ga je večina mestnega prebivalstva
privoščila vsaj enkrat dnevno, običajno popoldne, v času pred
glavnim dnevnim obrokom. Glede na to, da so v kopališča hodili
20
you will be able to see from the model and virtual tour, Emona
was built within rectangular city walls measuring 523 by 435
metres and had a rectilinear grid of roads dividing the land into
building plots and a large open square in the centre of the city.
The corridor housing the iEmona information point is connected
to the site of the partially preserved 4 northern town gate
of Emona. On the south-eastern edge of Zvezda Park, next to
another pedestrian entrance to the underground parking garage,
stands a 5 stone-built Roman well. This kind of wells, along
with wooden rainwater collectors, were in use in Emona even
after a water supply system was constructed in the 2nd century.
To reach the City Museum of Ljubljana, the next stop on your
tour, walk up the Vegova ulica street, which runs along the
course of the eastern city wall of Emona and the western
town wall of medieval Ljubljana, which lay east of Emona, at
the foot of the castle hill, and utilized the Roman wall as the
foundation for its western town wall, built in the 13th century.
A semicircular medieval 6 defensive tower built on the
rectangular foundations of a Roman tower has survived to the
present day, and so has the part of the Roman wall used as a
construction element in the building of almost the entire ground
floor of the row of buildings between the defensive tower and
the National and University Library.
7 |City Museum of Ljubljana
The City Museum of Ljubljana, located in the immediate vicinity
of the site once occupied by the eastern city gate of Emona,
displays the remains of an important Roman road leading east
to the Balkans as part of its permanent exhibition on the history
of Ljubljana. Apart from the remains of the road, built using the
macadam technique, the museum’s basement rooms also house
the remains of a small Roman roadside restaurant, including its
bread oven and pottery, and one of the cloacae, which carried
sewage from Emona to the river Ljubljanica. All these remains
were discovered beneath the museum during renovation works
at the turn of this century.
From spring 2014 to spring 2015 you can also view an attractive
thematic exhibition marking the 2000th anniversary of the
Srednjeveški obrambni stolp, postavljen na temeljih rimskega
A medieval defensive tower built on the foundations of a Roman tower
21
skoraj vsi meščani, so veljala stroga pravila o tem, kdaj in v
čigavi družbi se sme kdo kopati. Ženske in moški, na primer, se
niso kopali ob istih urah.
9 |Arheološki park Emonska hiša
V Arheološkem parku Emonska hiša je ohranjen del rimske
večstanovanjske hiše z velikim notranjim dvoriščem, na katerega
so imele izhod posamezne stanovanjske enote. Hiša je bila tako
kot večina stanovanjskih stavb v mestu zgrajena v 1. stoletju,
njeni ostanki pa večinoma izvirajo iz časa njene zadnje prenove
na prehodu med 4. in 5. stoletjem. Hiša je sodeč po kakovostni
stavbni opremi nudila dom premožni emonski družini. Imela
je talno in stensko ogrevanje, stene sob so bile ometane in
poslikane, tla pa so bila prekrita z različnimi vrstami tlaka,
vključno z dragocenimi mozaiki. Imela je tudi lastno stranišče
na izplakovanje, iz katerega so odplake po hišnem odtočnem
kanalu odtekale v mestno kanalizacijo. Po vsej verjetnosti je
bila pritlična, le njeni posamezni deli so bili morda nadzidani do
prvega nadstropja.
Če se sprehodite po podestu nasproti vhoda v park in spustite
po stopnicah, ki vodijo z njega, pridete na mesto, kjer je vzdolž
stanovanja v prostore na levi in desni vodil hodnik. Na desni
strani hodnika so ostanki sobe, tlakovane s črnobelim mozaikom
z geometrijskim motivom, značilnim za 4. stoletje, na levi pa
ostanki sobe, ogrevane s hipokavstom, rimskim sistemom
talnega ogrevanja. Tla ogrevane sobe so nosili opečni stebrički
in majhni oboki, v prostor med njimi pa je bil iz sosednje sobe,
kjer je bilo kurišče, speljan topel zrak, ki je ogreval tla in se
po votlih glinastih opekah dvigoval po stenah, tako da so bile
tople tudi te. Po hodniku naprej pridete do ostankov velike
sobe z dvemi vhodi, ki je nudila prostor kurišču na drva, kuhinji
in stranišču in je bila z vrati povezana z manjšo, prav tako
ogrevano sobo, tlakovano z rdečkastim teracom iz zglajene
zmesi apnenega ometa, večjih kamnitih in opečnih okruškov ter
opečnega prahu. Tudi nekateri prostori v osrednjem delu hiše, ki
je skupaj z delom notranjega dvorišča predstavljen v vzhodnem
delu parka, so bili ogrevani in tlakovani.
Hiše v Emoni so bile sicer razporejene v strogo mrežo
pravokotno sekajočih se cest, vendar niso bile vse enako velike.
V povprečju so merile okoli 2000 kvadratnih metrov. Z izjemo
tistih, v katerih so živeli obrtniki, trgovci in gostilničarji, ki so
imeli na ulično stran lokale, so bile z zunanje strani zaprte,
družinsko življenje pa je potekalo okoli notranjega dvorišča.
Mestni muzej Ljubljana / City Museum of Ljubljana
foundation of Emona. The exhibition was conceived to explore
the foundation and development of Emona and its place within
the Roman Empire.
On your way from the museum you can view the 8 tombstone
of some of the Cantii, an honourable ancient Roman family
who moved to Emona from Aquileia. The tombstone,
built into the Baroque façade of the Križanke Church, was
discovered at the beginning of the 18th century, during the
foundation excavations for the church. The Latin inscription
on it is indicative of the fact that the Romans had their own
tombstones made while they were still alive.
As you approach the Emona House Archaeological Park, the
next stop on your tour, you will pass the site of Emona’s public
baths, whose remains can, for the moment, only be viewed
as part of the virtual tour of Emona that can be taken in the
corridor of the Kongresni trg square’s underground parking
10 |Rimski zid na Mirju
Rimski zid na Mirju je skoraj v celotni dolžini ohranjen južni krak
emonskega mestnega obzidja, ki je bil v 30. letih prejšnjega
stoletja prenovljen po načrtih arhitekta Jožeta Plečnika.
Znameniti arhitekt je pri prenovi zidu dodal nekaj elementov po
lastni zamisli: kamnito piramido nad enimi od stranskih mestnih
vrat, za katero je dobil navdih pri znameniti Cestijevi piramidi
v Rimu in jo je dal postaviti ne glede na to, da piramide niso
Nagrobnik družine Kancijev / Tombstone of some of the Cantii
22
23
Stalna razstava v Mestnem muzeju Ljubljana / City Museum of
Ljubljana's permanent exhibition
garage. Roman public baths were, as a rule, large buildings
owned by the state or the city administration. Admission was
free. The baths usually comprised four sections: a sweating
room, a warm-water pool for rinsing off the sweat, a cold-water
pool for freshening up, and a massage and workout room. For
the Romans, visiting the baths, where they would chat and play
games, was an essential form of socializing engaged in by most
of the urban population at least once a day, normally in the
afternoon, before the main meal of the day. As the baths were
frequented by practically all the citizens, strict rules applied as
to when and in whose company one was allowed to bathe. Men
and women bathed at different times.
9 |Emona House Archaeological Park
The Emona House Archaeological Park contains the remains
of a part of a multi-unit residential building with a large inner
courtyard, which could be accessed from each of the residential
units. Like most of Emona’s residential buildings, the house was
constructed in the 1st century, but most of its remains date from
the time of its last renovation at the turn of the 5th century.
Judging from the high-quality building finishes and utilities, the
house was the home of a wealthy family. It had underfloor and
wall heating, the walls of its rooms were rendered and painted,
and the floors were covered with various kinds of paving,
including precious mosaics. The house had its own flush toilets
connected to a house sewer, which carried waste water to the
city’s sewage system. In all likelihood it was a single-storey
building and perhaps only some parts of it were raised by a floor.
If you take a walk along the raised platform across the way from
the park’s entrance and descend the stairs leading from it, you
will reach the course of a corridor from which rooms on the left
and right could be accessed in Roman times. On your righthand side you can see the remains of a room decorated with
Levo: Pogled na vzhodni del Arheološkega parka Emonska hiša / Left:
A view of the eastern part of the Emona House Archaeological Park
24
25
bile sestavni del rimskih mestnih obzidij; lapidarij, v katerega so
vgrajeni arhitekturni elementi, odkriti ob raziskovanju bližnjih
emonskih hiš; niz stebrov ob glavnih južnih vratih v Emono;
sprehajališče vzdolž zidu, na katerem je našla svoje mesto cela
vrsta kamnitih rimskih ostankov, najdenih na področju Emone
in njene okolice. Eno daljših ohranjenih rimskih mestnih obzidij
severno od Apeninskega polotoka, ki mu je še nedolgo pred
Plečnikovo prenovo grozilo, da ga bodo porušili, zemljo, na
kateri stoji, pa prodali za novogradnje, je tako preoblikoval v
spomenik z zgodovinsko, estetsko in funkcionalno vrednostjo.
Emonsko mestno obzidje je bilo visoko od šest do osem metrov,
široko pa skoraj dva metra in pol. Imelo je več kot 20 stolpov,
štiri glavna vrata in vrsto stranskih vrat. Njegovi zunanji deli
so bili zgrajeni iz kamnitih kvadrov, vezanih z malto, notranjost
pa je bila zapolnjena s konglomeratom oblic, manjših kamnov,
peska in apna, zaradi česar je bilo izjemno trdno. Na severni,
zahodni in južni strani je bilo obdano z dvema več metrov
globokima jarkoma, napolnjenima z vodo. Emonci so svoje
obzidje večkrat prenavljali, najbolj korenito v obdobju pozne
antike, ko so zaradi vdorov barbarov zazidali nekatera od
stranskih mestnih vrat.
Pot od južnega mestnega obzidja nazaj v mesto začnite
pred Plečnikovo piramido in na zelenici pred prehodom čez
Aškerčevo cesto boste naleteli na ostanke ene od 11 emonskih
kloak, velikih zbirnih kanalov, v katere so se stekale odplake
iz odtočnih kanalov stanovanjskih hiš, uličnih odtočnih jaškov,
zaprtih s kamnitimi čepi, in javnega stranišča, zgrajenega ob
kopališču. Blizu meter široke in okoli dva metra visoke kloake,
sezidane iz kamna in na dnu obložene z velikimi opekami,
so bile speljane pod mestnimi cestami, ki so vodile v smeri
zahod-vzhod, nato pa pod vzhodnim mestnim obzidjem do
reke Ljubljanice. Nekateri deli emonskih kloak so se tako dobro
ohranili, da so kot del ljubljanske mestne kanalizacije še v
prejšnjem stoletju služili svojemu namenu.
Pri kloaki zavijte desno, pri prvem prehodu za pešce prečkajte
Aškerčevo cesto, nato pa se skozi majhen park sprehodite
do ljubke ozke uličice z imenom Rimska cesta, ki se na tem
mestu prekriva z eno od glavnih cest skozi Emono in začrtava
južni rob njenega osrednjega trga. Če se naravnost čez cesto
sprehodite proti zadnji točki ogleda, Arheološkemu parku
Zgodnjekrščansko središče, boste najprej prečkali območje
12 emonskega foruma, 64 x 190 metrov velikega glavnega
trga, opisanega v poglavju Življenje v Emoni (str. 12). Na nekdaj
živahno središče emonskega mestnega življenja danes spominja
zasnova tamkajšnje stanovanjske soseske, katere bloki so
razmeščeni okrog odprtega tlakovanega prostora, v primerjavi s
katerim je bil emonski forum za približno tretjino daljši, četrtino
širši in precej bolj odprt, saj so imele stavbe ob njem le pritličje
in eno nadstropje.
Pot nadaljujte mimo šolskega igrišča in levo za šolo boste našli
vhod v arheološki park.
26
Ostanki rimskega hipokavsta v Arheološkem parku Emonska
hiša / The remains of a Roman hypocaust at the Emona House
Archaeological Park
a black and white mosaic in a geometric pattern characteristic
of the 4th century, and on your left-hand side the remains of
a room heated by a hypocaust, a Roman system of underfloor
heating. The floor of the heated room was supported by small
brick pillars and arches so that hot air from the furnace in the
room next door could pass through the space in between, heat
the floor, rise up through the air bricks in the walls, and heat the
walls as well. Further down the corridor you can see the remains
of a large room with two entrances which provided space for a
wood-fired furnace, kitchen and toilet, and was connected to a
smaller heated room with reddish terrazzo flooring consisting
of a smoothly polished mixture of stone and brick chips, lime
plaster, and powdered brick. Some of the rooms in the central
part of the house, whose remains, along with a part of the inner
courtyard, can be viewed in the eastern part of the park, were
heated and floored too.
Despite the fact that Emona was built on a strict grid plan, its
houses were not all of the same size. The average floor area
was approximately 2,000 square metres. With the exception of
the houses inhabited by craftsmen, merchants and restaurant
keepers, whose businesses faced the street, the houses in
Emona had windowless front façades and family life was mostly
centred in and around the inner courtyard.
10 |Roman wall in Mirje
The Roman wall in the Mirje area represents the almost entire
length of the southern city wall of Emona, renovated in the
1930s to designs by the architect Jože Plečnik. The famous
architect added several elements of his own design to the
existing wall: a stone pyramid above one of the postern gates
to the city, for which he drew inspiration from the famous
Pyramid of Cestius in Rome and had it built despite the fact
that pyramids were not an integral part of Roman city walls;
a lapidarium into whose walls he built architectural elements
discovered during the excavation of nearby Roman houses; a set
of columns next to the main southern gate of the city; a park
along the length of the wall, which provides space for a large
27
Ostanki rimske kloake ob Aškerčevi cesti / Roman cloaca next to the
Aškerčeva cesta road
number of stone remains from Roman times found on the site of
Emona and its surrounding areas. One of the longer Roman city
walls preserved north of the Italian Peninsula, which had been
threatened to be pulled down only a short while before Plečnik’s
renovation in order for the land on which it stands to be sold
for new developments, was thus transformed into a unique
monument of historical, aesthetic and functional value.
The city wall of Emona was six to eight metres high and almost
two and a half metres wide. It had more than 20 towers, four
main gates, and a number of postern gates. Its outer face was
built from stone blocks bound together with mortar, and the
inside was filled with a conglomerate of river pebbles, small
rocks, sand and lime, which made the wall extraordinarily
strong. On the north, west and south sides it was surrounded by
two several-metre-deep moats filled with water. Over the course
of the city’s history, it was renovated several times, the most
thoroughly in Late Antiquity, when some of the postern gates
were walled up to ward off incursions from barbarian tribes.
Start your walk back to the city centre from Plečnik’s pyramid,
and on a green just before the crossing over the Aškerčeva
cesta road you will see the remains of one of 11 Emona’s
Emonski forum; iz dokumentacije MGML / the Emona forum
kept at the MGML
Levo: Rimski zid na Mirju / Left: the Roman wall in Mirje
28
29
13 |Arheološki park Zgodnjekrščansko središče
V parku so na ogled ostanki rimske hiše, ki je bila v začetku 1.
stoletja zgrajena v stanovanjske namene, 300 let kasneje, ko
je krščanstvo v imperiju postalo dovoljena vera, pa je doživela
naglo preobrazbo v kultni objekt.
Najprej so na začetku 4. stoletja obnovili tlake, napeljali
hipokavstno ogrevanje, stene na novo poslikali s freskami in
zgradili tri bazenčke, ki so bili verjetno del zasebnega kopališča.
V drugi polovici 4. stoletja so ob severnem pročelju prizidali
prostor, tlakovan z večbarvnim mozaikom z zgodnjekrščansko
simboliko, ki so ga verjetno uporabljali za krščansko molilnico.
Potem ko je Emona je ob koncu 4. stoletja postala sedež škofije,
so v začetku 5. stoletja ob osrednjem dvorišču zgradili krstilnico
z osmerokotnim bazenčkom, v katerem so enkrat na leto, v noči
na veliko nedeljo, med svečanim celonočnim obredom, ki je
vključeval prižiganje sveč, molitve emonski kristjanov nad sveto
vodo in maziljenje krščencev, krstili odrasle Rimljane, ki so se po
dveh do treh letih študija svetih spisov in priprav na krščansko
življenje odločili sprejeti krščansko vero. Tla molilnice so bila
tlakovana z večbarvnim mozaikom, v katerem so bila izpisana
imena donatorjev, ki so finančno podprli njegovo izdelavo.
Emonsko zgodnjekrščansko središče je bilo okoli sredine 5.
stoletja požgano, novo versko shajališče močne skupnosti
emonskih kristjanov, ki je bila v tesnih stikih s pomembnimi
duhovnimi središči zgodnjega krščanstva, pa je verjetno postala
okrogla stavba (rotunda), ki so jo zgradili ob robu foruma.
Ostanke rotunde si je mogoče ogledati v Galeriji Jakopič (gl. str.
32).
Svoj ogled Emone ste zdaj zaključili, vendar to še ni razlog, da
bi se kar takoj odpravili nazaj v vrvež mestnega središča, še
posebej, če vas na vaših mestnih raziskovanjih veseli začutiti
tudi ležeren utrip mestnih četrti, ki so nekoliko proč od uhojenih
poti. V bližnji okolici emonskega foruma, predvsem vzdolž
Rimske ceste, ki ste jo prečkali na poti do zadnje točke ogleda,
je nekaj prijetnih barov in gostilnic z vrtom, kjer se pretežno
zadržujejo lokalni prebivalci, študentje z bližnjih fakultet in
nekateri redni gostje iz drugih delov mesta, ki so se že zaradi
česa zaljubili v ta del Ljubljane.
cloacae, large sewers which collected waste water from house
sewers, road drains, covered with stone covers, and the public
latrine located next to the public baths. The approximately
two-metre-high and almost one-metre-wide cloacae, built from
stone and covered with large bricks on the bottom, were built
under the west-east roads of Emona, from where they carried
waste water under the eastern city wall all the way to the river
Ljubljanica. Some parts of Emona’s cloacae were so well built
that they were made part of Ljubljana’s sewage system and still
served their original purpose in the last century.
Once you have passed the remains of the cloaca, turn right onto
the Aškerčeva cesta road, cross the road at the first crossing,
and continue along a path through a small park, which brings
you to a lovely little street called Roman Road (Rimska cesta),
which, at this point, runs along the course of one of the main
roads through Emona and marks the southern edge of its central
square. If you cross the street here and continue straight ahead
towards the Early Christian Centre Archaeological Park, the last
stop on your tour, you will first cross the area of 12 Emona’s
forum, the city’s 190-metre-long and 64-metre-wide central
square described in the chapter Life in Emona (p. 13). The once
vibrant centre of Emona’s city life is reflected in the layout of
the residential neighbourhood occupying its site. The blocks of
flats are set around an open paved area reminiscent of Emona’s
forum, which was about a third longer, a quarter wider, and much
more open than the present square as the buildings surrounding
it had only two floors: the ground floor and the first floor.
Continue past the school playground. The Early Christian Centre
Archaeological Park is on your left-hand side behind the school.
13 |Early Christian Centre Archaeological Park
The park contains the remains of a Roman house built at the
beginning of the 1st century for residential purposes. Three
hundred years later, when Christianity became a permitted
religion, the house underwent a rapid transformation into a
secular building.
The transformation began at the beginning of the 4th century,
Mozaik v Arheološkem parku Zgodnjekrščansko središče
A mosaic in the Early Christian Centre Archaeological Park
Arheološki park Zgodnjekrščansko središče / The Early Christian
Centre Archaeological Park
30
31
Če bi radi videli in izvedeli še več
14 | Lapidarij Narodnega muzeja Slovenije
Prešernova cesta 20, www.nms.si
V Narodnem muzeju Slovenije si lahko ogledate zbirko
rimskih kamnitih spomenikov, najdenih širom države. Napisi
na spomenikih ponujajo vpogled v vse plasti rimske družbe
in pričajo o najrazličnejših področjih življenja v rimskih časih.
Zbirka med drugim vključuje tudi pred več kot stoletjem najdene
ostanke marmorne plošče s cesarskim napisom, na podlagi
katerega danes vemo, da je Emona poleti leta 15 že stala.
Muzej je odprt vse dni v tednu od 10.00 do 18.00, ob četrtkih
do 20.00. Ogled zbirke kamnitih antičnih spomenikov je
brezplačen.
when new flooring was laid, the walls were painted with new
frescoes, and three little pools were built, presumably as part of
private baths. In the second half of the 4th century an extension
was constructed on the north side of the house. The extension,
paved with multi-coloured mosaics depicting early Christian
symbols, most probably served as a Christian place of prayer.
At the beginning of the 5th century, soon after Emona became
the seat of a diocese, the house saw the construction of a
baptistery with an octagonal baptismal pool on the edge of its
inner courtyard, where once a year, on the eve of Easter Sunday,
adult Romans who decided to convert to Christianity after two
to three years of studying religious scriptures were baptized
as part of a solemn ritual lasting all night long and including
candle lighting, praying over holy water, and the anointing of
those preparing for baptism. The multi-coloured mosaics on the
floor of the baptistery bore the names of those who financially
supported their making.
Around the middle of the 5th century, Emona’s early Christian
centre was burnt down. The new meeting place of the city’s
strong Christian community, which was in close contact with
important centres of early Christian spirituality, was most
probably the cylindrical building (rotunda) constructed on
the edge of the forum. The remains of the rotunda are now
displayed at the Jakopič Gallery (see p. 35).
Your tour of Emona has now come to an end, but this should
not be a reason for you to immediately return to the teeming
streets of the inner city centre, particularly not if one of the
things you like to enjoy during your urban explorations is the
leisurely pace of the areas which are slightly off the beaten
track. In the close vicinity of Emona’s forum, particularly along
the Rimska cesta road, which you crossed on your way to the
final stop on your Emona tour, there are several pleasant bars
and restaurants with outdoor seating frequented mostly by
the area’s local residents, students from nearby faculties, and
regulars from other parts of the city who have, for whatever
reason, fallen in love with this part of Ljubljana.
Narodni muzej Slovenije / National Museum of Slovenia
15 |Galerija Jakopič
Slovenska cesta 9, www.mgml.si
Na mestu, kjer danes stoji Galerija Jakopič, so v rimskem času
stale stavbe, ki so zapirale vzhodni del glavnega trga Emone.
Ob gradnji galerijske stavbe so bili najdeni ostanki več rimskih
trgovinic, gostišča in upravno-sodne stavbe. Poleg ostankov
temeljev slednje si je v galeriji, ki sicer razstavlja dela sodobne
vizualne umetnosti, mogoče ogledati tudi del temeljev rotunde,
okrogle stavbe, ki jo je v poznoantičnem obdobju najverjetneje
uporabljala emonska krščanska skupnost. Potek temeljev
rotunde je naznačen z okroglino, ki izstopa iz zgornjega dela
fasade današnje galerijske stavbe, in s kockami v asfaltnem
tlaku pločnika pod njo.
Galerija je odprta do torka do nedelje od 10.00 do 18.00.
32
Z okroglino na fasadi Galerije Jakopič označen potek temeljev
emonske rotunde / Jakopič Gallery’s bulging façade indicating the
outline of the foundations of Emona’s rotunda
33
See and Learn More
14 |Lapidarium of the National Museum of Slovenia
Prešernova cesta street 20, www.nms.si
At the National Museum of Slovenia you can view a collection
of Roman stone monuments found across the country. The
inscriptions on the monuments offer an insight into all strata
of Roman society and cover a wide variety of aspects of life in
Roman times. The collection includes the remains of a marble
inscription stone discovered more than a century ago which
testifies to the fact that Emona already stood in the summer of 15.
The museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and until
8 p.m. on Thursdays. Admission to the collection of stone
monuments is free.
Dolničarjev lapidarij / Dolničar Lapidarium
16 |Dolničarjev lapidarij
Dolničarjeva ulica 1
V začetku 18. stoletja je dal Janez Gregor Dolničar, ljubljanski
pravnik, kronist, zgodovinar in velik domoljub, v zunanje
stene ljubljanske stolnice in semenišča vzidati trinajst rimskih
nagrobnikov z napisi, s katerimi je želel Ljubljančane spomniti
na antične korenine njihovega mesta. Večina kamnov je bila
pripeljana iz rimske vasi na območju današnjega Iga, kjer so
postavljali nagrobnike po rimskem običaju.
15 |Jakopič Gallery
Slovenska cesta street 9, www.mgml.si
In Roman times, the site of the Jakopič Gallery was occupied
by the buildings lining the east side of Emona’s central square.
During the gallery’s construction, builders came across the
remains of several Roman shops, a Roman restaurant, a judicial
and administrative building (basilica), and a cylindrical building
(rotunda) believed to have been used by Emona’s Christian
community in Late Antiquity. As well as hosting exhibitions
of contemporary visual art, the Jakopič Gallery displays the
remains of the foundations of Emona’s basilica and rotunda. The
outline of the rotunda’s foundations is indicated by the bulging
upper part of the gallery building’s façade and the cobblestones
on the asphalt pavement beneath it.
The gallery is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
16 |Dolničar Lapidarium
Dolničarjeva ulica street 1
At the beginning of the 18th century, the Ljubljana-based lawyer,
chronicler, historian and true patriot Janez Gregor Dolničar
had thirteen inscribed Roman tombstones built into the outer
walls of the Ljubljana Cathedral and Seminary Palace in order
to remind his fellow citizens of the ancient roots of their city.
Most of the tombstones were brought from the site of a Roman
village in the area of the present village of Ig, where tombstones
were erected in accordance with Roman customs.
Del apside forumske bazilike v Galeriji Jakopič / Part of the apse of
the forum basilica at the Jakopič Gallery
34
35
− informacije, turistične publikacije o Ljubljani (prospekti, načrti,
koledar prireditev) in spominki
− redni in naročeni ogledi mesta (turistični vlakec in ladjica, vzpenjača)
− Turistična kartica Ljubljane
− osnovne informacije in publikacije o Sloveniji
− rezervacije prenočišč, prodaja izletov
− vstopnice za kulturne, zabavne, športne in druge prireditve
Slovenski turistični informacijski center (STIC)
Krekov trg 10, SI-1000 Ljubljana
Telefon: 01 306 45 76, faks: 01 306 45 80
E-pošta: [email protected], www.visitljubljana.com
Odprto: 1. 6. - 30. 9.: 8.00-21.00 vsak dan
1. 10. - 31. 5.: 8.00-19.00, sobote, nedelje in
prazniki 9.00-17.00
−
−
−
−
−
−
m h
c u s m
u c W r u i s t , c i s,
h iF se rav ty
m i a s, e
l,
or n
e! d
Turistični informacijski center Ljubljana (TIC)
Stritarjeva ulica, SI-1000 Ljubljana
Telefon: 01 306 12 15, faks: 01 306 12 04
E-pošta: [email protected], www.visitljubljana.com
Odprto: 1. 6. - 30. 9.: 8.00-21.00 vsak dan
1. 10. - 31. 5.: 8.00-19.00 vsak dan
Im
3 rd pos
Be sib
le
st
Eu to
Ig
ro
pe no
an re
Ci
F
ty
at ree
Ca
to tra m
bo ur ct u
rd
24 at s, b ion seu
17|Turistični informacijski centri
informacije o slovenski turistični ponudbi
Turistična kartica Ljubljane
spominki iz Ljubljane in Slovenije
internetni kotiček za obiskovalce
rezervacije prenočišč, prodaja izletov
vstopnice za kulturne, zabavne, športne in druge prireditve
17 |Tourist Information Centres
− Information and tourism publications on Ljubljana (brochures, maps,
event calendars, tourism literature)
− Ljubljana Tourist Card
− Regular and pre-booked sightseeing tours
− Booking of accommodation and excursions
− Souvenirs of Ljubljana
− Tickets to cultural, entertainment, sports and other events
Slovenian Tourist Information Centre (STIC)
Krekov trg 10, SI-1000 Ljubljana
Phone: +386 (0)1 306 45 76, fax: +386 (0)1 306 45 80
Email: [email protected], www.visitljubljana.com
Opening 1 June - 30 September: 8:00-21:00 daily
hours: 1 October - 31 May: 8:00-19:00, Saturdays, Sundays
and public holidays 9.00-17.00
−
−
−
−
−
−
Information on Slovenia’s tourism offerings
Ljubljana Tourist Card
Souvenirs of Ljubljana and Slovenia
Internet corner
Booking of accommodation and excursions
Tickets to cultural, entertainment, sports and other events
2
Sa
48 4 h
th ve
ad
72 h our
an m
ul
ho our s:
ts
s
€ ore
ur : €2
c
80
s: € 3 (6 h
i
3
l
14 d
!
€ 0
r
35
€ yea en
€ 14 rs)
€ 18
21
Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (TIC)
Stritarjeva ulica, SI-1000 Ljubljana
Phone: +386 (0)1 306 12 15, fax: +386 (0)1 306 12 04
Email: [email protected], www.visitljubljana.com
Opening 1 June - 30 September: 8:00-21:00 daily
hours: 1 October - 31 May: 8:00-19:00 daily
Buy your card online
and save 10% off the regular price!
www.visitljubljana.com
Tourist Information Centre (TIC)
Stritarjeva ulica, SI-1000 Ljubljana
Phone: + 386 (0)1 306 12 15 fax: +386 (0)1 306 12 04
Email: [email protected], www.visitljubljana.com