Magazine 2010 - Südtirols Süden

Transcription

EDITORIAL
Dear reader,
This is the fifth year in which we produce the magazine about Bolzano and environs and
during all this time, we have tried to offer deeper insight using articles, reports, stories
and satire in our editorial. Once again this year, we have created interesting features,
which relate to everyday life, as well as history.
It is far away from a type of mixture where too many chefs (authors) created a common
verbal porridge. Instead, this magazine is a creation based on three products: the city of
Bozen, the vineyard landscape and the Alpine mountain ranges. Individually and in
different combinations, refined and nicely decorated, but still tasty, easy to stomach and
entertaining!
You can read about the unique city of Bozen, as well as cycle routes, exquisite highflying events and musical experiences. The magazine will give you insight into aristocratic wine-growing estates, set you on the trail of dinosaurs and mystic legendary
figures. It will speak about bunkers, as well as architectural culture.
Helmut Huber
Hotel owner and initiator of
the Terlan Asparagus Weeks.
Currently, he holds the
vice-presidency of the South
Tyrolean Hotel and Guesthouse Association. He is the
long-serving president of the
Tourist Office in Terlan, as
well as the Tourist Board
Bolzano and environs.
There is one thing, which the stories and reports have in common – they create an
irresistible and special atmosphere, which can only be experienced in South Tyrol.
People (and without doubt nearly all the authors mentioned) personify the mentality of
our country: conscious of tradition, but still innovative, reliable, full of improvisation,
Italian on one side, but still true and authentic on the other.
South Tyrol will move you! This is not an empty promise but something people
experience every single day. During the unsure times we live in right now, South Tyrol
can give you something, which runs much deeper than short-term choreography and
fast consumerism. What it is … well, you better start reading all about it!
Yours, Helmut Huber
MAGAZINE 2010
3
TOPICS
8 Bacchus Urbanus
Love at first sight
14 Unfriendly relics
16 Sturdy calves
Alpine-Mediterranean biking regions
8
20 Willkommen! Bienvenue! Welcome!
Cabaret of South Tyrolean enjoyments
26 Wine and aristocracy – noble wines
32 Culturonda® Wine
34 High-proof treasures
36 Architectural culture for travellers
40 Brilliant reflection!
Music with horns and custom
44 A village gone mad
16
Highlighting the Egetmann parade
46 The never-ending ball of wool
In the footsteps of legends
50 Hiking and Tyrolean food
56 The joys of winter
58 Dinos for collection
20
COLUMNS
6 South Tyrol ABC
25 Our best – restaurant guide
31 Excellent wines – wine guide
60 365 days events and highlights
26
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MAGAZINE 2010
64 Museums & churches – culture guide
65 Places worth seeing
CONTENT
SERVICE
66 Getting there
69 Contact
154 Panorama
155 Transfers & be mobile
ACCOMMODATION
40
70 Packages & offers
Family & kids, cycling, hiking, wine, wellness
golfing, culture, riding
76 Bolzano Bozen Jenesien
81 Terlan
85 Andrian
88 Camping & Youth hostels
89 Eppan
105 Kaltern
46
126 Tramin
130 Südtiroler Unterland
Kurtatsch, Margreid, Kurtinig
133 Castelfeder
Auer, Montan, Neumarkt, Salurn
136 Leifers Branzoll Pfatten
139 Mölten
141 Sarntal
50
145 Ritten
150 Aldein Radein
152 Trudner Horn Nature Park
Altrei, San Lugano, Truden
Your thoughts are important to us! Any criticism, suggestions,
ideas, praise or reproach? Please let us know:
Tourismusverband Südtirols Süden,
Pillhofstr. 1 • I-39057 Frangart (Bozen)
www.bolzanosurroundings.info
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MAGAZINE 2010
5
c
h
ritical
THE BEST WINE ROAD
IN ITALY
PAUL FLORA
a
phrodisiac
TERLAN ASPARAGUS
Called after Margarete Maultasch,
it grows in the asparagus triangle
of Terlan, Vilpian and Siebeneich.
From the beginning of April
to end of May, it is delivered
daily fresh to our tables and is
most popular with an original
‘Bozen sauce’. Tip: Culinary
asparagus weeks ‘Nature, Culture
and nothing but asparagus‘.
www.terlan.info
onoured
Erich Kästner once called Paul
Flora († 2009) a ‘picture author‘.
Friedrich Dürrenmatt called
him a ‘thinker and brooder
amongst caricaturists‘. In 1953,
he began his co-operation
with the Zurich Doegonees
publishing house and a little
later with the ‘Zeit‘. Sketches
of the often award-winning
artist decorate some exquisite
wines in the Kellerei Girlan.
www.paulflora.com
Three autochthon types of
grape, approximately 70 km
long, lead you through 15 South
Tyrolean villages: the South
Tyrolean Wine Road has been
awarded the ‘Roma Wine Festival
2009’ for the best wine road in
Italy. Around 140 wine roads
from all over Italy participated
in this test. The reason the
South Tyrolean Wine Road was
awarded the prize is due to
‘the unique link between wine,
country, tourism and culture’.
www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it
b
i
HIGH CLIMBING
ROPES
LABYRINTHOS
alanced
The high climbing ropes in
Terlan and Kaltern allow you to
experience nature from a totally
new perspective. You need to
be on the ball, whether you
find yourself on the adventure
trail or the special children’s
route for 4 to 6 year olds. If you
prefer to keep your feet on
the ground, you can balance
yourself through the newly
built ‘bare foot path’ in Terlan:
great training for the muscles on
your tummy and back and the
easiest possibility to massage
the reflex zones on your feet.
www.xsund.it
www.abenteuerpark.it
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MAGAZINE 2010
f
uturistic
PROJECT FINCUBE –
FIXED-TERM LIVING
Project Fincube is a 47 m2 large
construction with a minimalist,
purist space inside.The ‘take away
house’ evolved in connection
with the Berlin Designers
(Werner Aisslinger, Tina
Bunyaprasit) and South Tyrolean
craft work (Carpentry Lobis). The
finished house can be found in
Unterinn at the Ritten mountain
and can be viewed on request.
www.fincube.it
ngenious
But what is the right path? To
your left, straight on or to the
right? They say: every road
leads to Rome. But you don’t
want to go to Rome, do you?
Maybe the best way is to go
right to the centre and straight
out again. This should be easy
enough, you say? Let’s wait and
see! Why not try it out – the
first labyrinth garden of South
Tyrol in Vilpian. For further
information call Camping
Ganthaler, Tel. +39 0471 678 716
r
SOUTH TYROL
ABC
ooted
m
GEWÜRZTRAMINER
GARDEN
obile
THE NEW RITTEN
CABLE RAILWAY
On 23rd May 2009, the first
tricable gondola in Italy made
its first trip between Bozen and
Oberbozen.The ride only took
12 minutes. Waiting times are a
thing of the past as the cabins
with their large windows and
their elegant ‘Magdalene Red’
colour run every four minutes.
Tip: Use free of charge with the
Mobilcard and museumobil Card.
www.mobilcard.info
In this display garden at
the wine-growing estate of
Hofstätter in Tramin you can find
treasure growing: 35 different
kinds of the Gewürztraminer
family, some of which are
descendants, cross-breeds
and mutations or clones from
several countries, but also some
from Cabernet or Pinot Nero.
However, all of them contain
the Gewürztraminer gene!
www.hofstatter.com
o
t
hematic
HIKING UNDER A MOTTO
Theme paths bring a region’s history
closer to hikers. In the holiday area
Bolzano and environs you can find
the famous Ritten Theme Path, the
Kaltern Peace Path, the interesting
Albrecht Dürer Path, other legendary
walks, as well as numerous natural
and wine teaching trails.
u
riginal
FIVEFINGERS IN
NEW YORK
The toe shoe with rubber soles
made of Vibram has been
awarded the Italian innovation
prize and is now counted by
the ‘Times‘ as one of the best
innovations of 2007. Some
runners are keen to run the New
York Marathon with the toe shoe.
www.vibramfivefingers.com
s
nique
HOLIDAY WITHOUT
BARRIERS
tylish
BAGS MADE OF
WOOD
Two young South Tyroleans
decided to design a new trend:
bags made of wood. These
are produced by a carpenter
and named after friends. The
line of ladies bags is made of a
specially glued veneer, which
allows popular shapes to be
created. The laptop/briefcase
line is shaped by leather fixed
on strips of wood. This makes
the bags more flexible.
www.embawo.com
The holiday farm Masatsch
in Kaltern is South Tyrol’s first
holiday and education hotel
for people with and without
impediment – a unique hotel
project for South Tyrol and
beyond. The combination of
hotel and education centre
for people with and without
impediment has a true
pioneering character. For
more information, click on
www.suedtirolfueralle.it
MAGAZINE 2010
7
Bacchus
Urbanus
Love at first sight
TEXT OSWALD STIMPFL
Goethe, Germany’s master poet, has probably best described the wonderful landscape south of the Brenner Pass: ‘A mild breeze fills the air. (…)
The hills at the foot of the mountains are covered in vineyards. The vines
are trailed over long, low porticos. The red grapes hang decoratively from
the ceiling and ripen over the warm floor …’.
Every year in May, Castle Maretsch turns
into the Mecca of local wine cultivation. Wine
producers meet their professional audience in
order to see how the new wines are doing. The
fi rst Bolzano Wine Tasting took place in the
Torgglhaus in Bozen in 1896.
www.weinkost.it
Magdalene parish church day
For many decades, the wine village of
St. Magdalena has celebrated this parish church
festival, when the wine farmers open their cellars
and invite you to taste the ‘classic St. Magdalena‘
red wine from the previous autumn. There are also
culinary delicacies from the local cuisine on offer.
Lorenzi Night
On 10th August, the night sky is lit up with fi res.
It is also the evening, when the wine illuminates
a brilliant sheen in the glass … and the Bozen
wine-growing estates offer their best selection
in the city centre.
Bacchus Urbanus
Anyone who would like to enjoy the world of
Bozen wines must come to the ‘Bacchus Urbanus‘
festival. This joint initiative of the Bozen Tourist
Office and the local wine growers sets about to
unite the culture and uniqueness of local wines.
Knowledgeable guides invite locals and guests
alike for a comfortable hiking trip through the
cultivation areas of the St. Magdalena and
Lagrein, ending with a visit to the winegrowing estate and a tasting session.
Every Saturday in October.
www.bolzano-bozen.it
BOZEN WINE EVENTS
Bolzano Wine Tasting Festival
Grape harvest with ‘Wimm bowl’ and ‘Zumm’
Wine-growing has marked Bozen’s landscape for centuries. Vines
cover the hills and mountains up to an altitude of 700 metres
above sea level and decorate the steep slopes in a wonderful way.
The wine town of Bozen has many a trump card: incomparable
landscape, excellent vineyards, hard-working vintners and cellar
masters who produce top wines … the target market is right in
front of your doorstep!
A LITTLE WINE HISTORY
When the Romans conquered the southern part of Tyrol, they
were very surprised. They saw a blooming wine industry, where
the grapes were grown on wooden porticos called ‘Lauben’ or
pergolas and came across wooden barrels, which were used for
storing the wine. Many old drawings and paintings of Bozen show
vineyards reaching down into the town areas. Also the special architectural design of the houses in Bozen, demonstrate that wine
trade has always been important for this city. The buildings from
the Middle Ages had two stories and an additional wine cellar,
which kept the wine cool during the summer and ensured that it
would not get too cold during the winter months.
VARIETY OF GRAPES ON A SMALL AREA
South Tyrol offers the best requirements for growing vines. Bozen
is situated at an altitude of only 260 metres above sea level. However, the surrounding mountains climb up to a height of 3,000
metres. The contrast in the landscape is enormous and has an influence on the local climate. During the afternoon, the Etschtal
Valley has a constant southerly wind. Towards the evening, the
cooler breezes come from the North and the East. These changes
in temperature are ideal for the development of acids, which mark
the fresh light red wines and the fruity white wines.
FACTS & FIGURES
In South Tyrol, about 5,200 hectares are covered by vineyards,
which produce 350,000 hector-litres of wine every single year. 55%
of these are red wines and the rest white wines. The Vernatsch
grape with all its varieties is used for about 60% of all red wines.
At the moment, Bozen, which has 700 hectares of vineyards, is
the third-largest wine-growing town in South Tyrol, after Eppan
(approx. 1,000 hectares) and Kaltern (800 hectares). Bozen is also
one of the largest wine-producing cities in Europe. The Vernatsch
grape is produced on a little more than 300 hectares and is still
the most important grape in the region. The warmest and best
wine-growing conditions are found on the steep slopes around
Bozen. In the hot Bozen basin, the Lagrein grape is grown and the
terrain near Gries delivers the best wine made from this grape.
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MAGAZINE 2010
Cloister green in Gries, a Bozen town district
WHITE WINE INCREASING IN POPULARITY
The fresh, fruity and acidy white wines from South Tyrol are
nearly untouchable and have led the way for a number of years.
During the last three decades, the cultivation area for white
grapes has almost doubled. In the Bozen area, they grow at an
altitude up to 800 metres above sea level! For the Italian consumers, South Tyrol and Bozen’s typical white wines are held in
high esteem.
LAGREIN, A WORLD CLASS WINE FROM BOZEN
The Lagrein has the best growing conditions in the region
around Bozen, on the fertile gravel-alluvial land, at the point
where the rivers Etsch, Eisack and Talfer flow together. The ancient grape is strong and reaps a high return. The vine carries
conical black-blue grapes, which make a rich, dark and storable
wine. The origin of the grape is unsure. The name probably
derives from Vallagarina, in the neighbouring Trentino region,
where the name was given in 927 A.D. to a certain region. Apart
from South Tyrol, the Lagrein grape is also grown in the Trentino
region. In other wine-growing areas all around the world, this
grape is not known.
THE HISTORY OF THE VERNATSCH
As with many other types of grape, there is not a lot of information about the name and origin of the Vernatsch. It most likely
derives its name from the Latin word ‘vernaculus‘, meaning local
or domestic. The grape comes in a number of varieties and apart
from the Bozen area – it is also grown in the warmer locations
near Meran, as well as in the sun-exposed hills and slopes of the
Etschtal Valley and the Upper Etsch region. The Vernatsch grape
is also very suitable for eating and is known by the name of the
‘Meran spa grape’. Due to the fact that the St. Magdalena wine is
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MAGAZINE 2010
also a Vernatsch wine, the winery cooperative of Bozen incorporates Vernatsch into more than 60% of the red wines produced.
However, the percentage of Vernatsch in wine production decreases constantly year on year.
ST. MAGDALENE – THE BOZEN CLASSIC
Since times gone by, the Justina and Leitach wines have been
cultivated in the St. Magdalena area. It was only about 100 years
ago that ‘St. Magdalena‘, the little church on the hill, gave its
name to the famous red wine. In 1923, as the first wine-growing town in Italy, the little village of St. Magdalena near Bozen
founded the Voluntary Protection Consortium of St. Magdalena. Its own trademark, which carries a control number on each
bottle, guarantees the origin of the wine. This wine must only
be produced from Vernatsch grapes, but a mixture of up to
an additional 10% of Lagrein or Pinot Noir is allowed by law.
Wine from the central region in the area can carry the ‘classico’
marking: besides the cultivation area on the hills of St. Magdalena, this includes the areas of St. Justina, Rentsch, Leitach and
St. Peter.
BUY AND ENJOY
An excellent bottle of wine not only makes a wonderful present,
but also allows you to carry home a piece of memorabilia. At
wine growing estates, we offer you an adventurous buying experience, full of choice. Large companies often avail of sales and
tasting rooms; many wine-growing estates sell straight from
their own production areas. Even when walking through the city
of Bozen, you can find a number of wine cellars and wine bars
(there are nearly 30 in Bozen), many in the city centre. Here are a
number which are particularly worth checking out, due to their
excellent location and assortment.
WINE & MORE
Cloister wine cellar Muri-Gries
On 2.7 hectares around the Baroque cloister,
which is bordered by old stone walls, you will
fi nd the best Lagrein grape. The cloister green is
one of the best and largest Lagrein growing areas
in the centre of Bozen – and, together with the
surrounding grounds, is protected and an
agricultural no-go area.
www.muri-gries.com
Lagrein Kretzer
Wine storage in Barrique barrels
‘Vinum‘, Brennerstr. 28: You will find many quality wines from
South Tyrol and Italy; also wholesale and retail trade.
‘Enovit’, Dr.-Streiter-Gasse 30: This wine bar is located in the
pedestrian area of the historic city centre. This tastefully renovated building also offers snacks, distillates and olive oil.
‘Gandolfi’, Drususallee 349: Situated at the western boundaries
of the town, this wine trade business has a very extensive variety.
Parking available, can be easily reached by car.
‘GiDi’, Gaismairstr. 20D: This little wine shop in the Italian part
of the town, offers an excellent price to performance ratio; also
great offers on lesser known wines.
Oswald Stimpfl
Born in Bozen in 1946. Explores
his surroundings with open eyes and
has an extensive general knowledge.
Much of it can be found in a number of
travel guides. By profession entrepreneur,
Oswald Stimpfl enjoys walking in his
leisure time, as well as the South Tyrolean
cuisine and wines.
The Lagrein Kretzer (Rosè version from the
Lagrein grape) is an easily drinkable, fruity, fresh
and young wine and can be enjoyed only a few
months after its harvest. The name ‘Kretzer‘
derives from ‘Kretze‘, meaning woven basket,
which in years gone by was used as a sieve to
divide the juice from the grape skins.
The Bioneer
In South Tyrol, the Loacker wine-growing estate in
St. Justina near Bozen is a pioneer in biological
wine-growing. Loacker’s aim is to grow a healthy
and tasty grape, which can be used for eating as
well as for wine making. Biological wine estates
are found at www.fws.it and
www.bioland-suedtirol.it
SPOTLIGHT
The phylloxera, the most dangerous of all vine
pests, was imported during the 19th Century from
the Americas and nearly wiped out the entire
European vines. American grapes are unaffected
by the phylloxera. For this reason, all European
vines have been grafted onto American roots.
MAGAZINE 2010
13
Unfriendly
relics
TEXT HERBERT ROSENDORFER
Thank goodness, you only see them if you know about them: the unfriendly relics.
They never were meant to be admired anyway.
Air-raid shelter at Castle Warth, overgrown by vines
They were hidden and should hide those who wanted to defend
the great ‘imperio’ of the political clown called Mussolini, particularly against the enemies from the north. But didn’t his faithful friend Adolf come from there? Did Mussolini think that Adolf
could pull a trick on him? Did he compare him too much with
himself? Bunkers and caverns are the unfriendly relics, which – in
three-digit figures – are spread around the province of South Tyrol, built on the most important strategic points. These bunkers
were built from 1932, and more frequently from 1938 into the
years ending the war. Many were only started. None of them were
ever used. When the German Wehrmacht moved in during 1943
and occupied the rest of Italy, not one shot was fired from one of
these bunkers. However, they were kept as ‘segretissimi‘ (incredibly secret) for the Italian army even after the war ended, and were
made inaccessible for the public. NATO showed some interest in
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MAGAZINE 2010
them up until 1955, while the Russians still occupied Austria, not
necessarily anywhere near the Brenner Pass, but further East in the
Lower Austrian regions. But then, officially they never knew about
them. In 1955, when the Russians left Austria, the military lost interest in the bunkers and they were left to themselves. This is why
these monsters have been overgrown by nature.
One of these overgrown bunkers can be seen (if you know it is
there!) just below Castle Warth. On the one metre thick cement
cover of the bunker, a friendly vineyard was planted. The grapes,
so they tell us, carry no sign of any fascist distaste. There is a trend
to call these relics aggression ’ruins‘. Unfortunately, this isn’t a good
term for them, as the six metre strong cement resists the elements
day by day. Maybe in two million years, we could imagine finding
only gravel instead of cement. However, Fritz Dellago, the master
BUNKER & MORE
Vallo Alpino:
Alpine rampart in South Tyrol
On all the frontiers, an approaching enemy would
have expected a belt of defence walls, and further
down the valleys a second one. Around 350 of
these bunkers and ramparts were transferred
during the 90s from the Italian government to the
country of South Tyrol. Twenty of these are now
marketed as a memorial to the past.
Hochfrangart art park
A cosmos in miniature, in creativity at random
reigns– this is Hochfrangart. Mankind, nature and
art in a new symbiosis. The ball which is visible
from afar is only one of more than 200 partly
breath-taking objects of the art created by the
patron Karl Nicolussi Leck. Further information
regarding guided tours at the tourist office Eppan.
Diverted – the Fritz Dellago wine shelter
Victory monument
of Castle Korb, doesn’t want to wait just that long. He transformed
the bunker, which was built by the Fascists against the family’s
will and directly in front of the old castle, into a highly interesting wine museum. He left the wall structures, added some bright
colour and now organises concerts, readings and exhibitions …
and a home for god Bacchus. Another bunker, which looked quite
ugly in a Paulsner field, was consecrated to grape juice and is now
being called the sparkling wine bunker Kössler, in which the Praeclarus is stored, the most exquisite cuvee sparkling wine from the
Kössler wine cellars. Guided tours are arranged, which also lead
you into the depths of the bunker and into the secrets of wine
production.
The art lover Karl Nicolussi-Leck, who recently died at an old age,
transformed his bunker in a different way. He used it as a basis
for a steel ball of eight metres diameter, which is visible from far
away in the Etschtal Valley. Today, the building of the ball is part
of the South Tyrolean history of justice, as the Eppan town hall
insisted on planning permission, which was never granted. Nicolussi-Leck’s argument was that the steel ball isn’t occupied and
therefore, does not need planning permission according to the
law. It simply is a piece of art. The Federal Court of Justice decided
for Nicolussi, and today, the town hall declares it as a landmark in
Eppan.
Herbert Rosendorfer
Born in 1934 in Gries near Bozen. Studied
law in Munich. Until 1997, judge in
Bavaria. Since 1997, he has lived in St.
Michael/Eppan. Numerous awards, such
as the literature award of the City of
Munich in 2005. Rosendorfer is the author
of an extraordinary range of works; one of
the most famous being ‘The letters of the
Chinese past’ (1985).
The victory monument, together with the carved
frieze on the Gerichtsplatz, is one of the last
remaining fascist monuments in Bozen. The
triumphal arch with its Latin inscription, ‘Hic
patriae fi nes siste signa. Hinc ceteros excoluimus
lingua legibus artibus.‘ was sanctified on 12th July
1928 by King Vittorio Emanuele III. In 2005, the
city of Bozen put up some panels to keep in mind
the ‘inglorious’ fascist times.
Between architecture and fascism
A theme tour through the ‘new‘ Bozen: Of particular interest is the contrast between monumental
and symbolic objects such as the victory monument and the large avant-garde projects in the
style of rationalistic architecture such as the Bozen
Lido. There are six different theme tours altogether,
which lead you through the town’s history. Leaflets
are available at the tourist office in Bozen.
SPOTLIGHT
The ice holes near Eppan even release cold air
from ducts and shafts in the summer. The air is
that cold, that icicles are formed until the beginning of June. The difference in temperature
reaches up to 35 degrees Celsius. Hence, at 500
metres above sea level we fi nd plants, that can
usually only be found in high Alpine areas.
MAGAZINE 2010
15
TEXT ROLAND SCHOPPER
Sturdy calves
Alpine-Mediterranean biking regions
At the very latest at the end of March, all mountain
bikers should get their bikes out from the basement
as it is time to work up some muscles for the new biking season. In the area of Bolzano and environs, from
Easter to the beginning of November, there are many
opportunities for every fitness level.
Extensive High-Alpine meadows and ragged rock
formations: Bolzano and environs has more to offer
than just vineyards
MTB REGION DOLOMITI LAGORAI BIKE – TRUDNER HORN
Embedded in magnificent and breath-taking mountains such as
the Pala Group and the Latemar, between the two very different, but nearby nature parks such as the Trudner Horn and the
Paneveggio-Pale di San Martino, a new Eldorado of mountain biking is about to appear: the mountain bike region Dolomiti Lagorai
Bike – Trudner Horn. Naturally growing areas such as the Lagorai,
the rushing water of the Aviso River and the incredible forests of
both nature parks make this cross-border region one of the most
beautiful biking areas.
MAGAZINE 2010
17
The Schwarzkopf mountain (Tramin) give you great panoramic views
Not many Alpine valleys can offer such a variety in mountain
bike routes, such as the Fleimstal Valley (this is in the Trentino region): the Val di Fiemme. Whether you are in the valley or high
up in the mountains, whether you are old or young, a beginner
or professional, there is a right mountain bike tour for everyone.
The cycling paths which run through meadows and villages, lead
up shady gravel, forest and mountain roads, right up above the
tree line to the peaks … and reimburse us for the sweat and hard
work by giving us wonderful panoramic views of the Dolomites.
On old military paths, you can ride to history-stricken former positions taken up during World Wars I and II and discover after almost
every bend an outlook or a romantic forested area which invites
you to rest for a while and dream. None of the 25 routes is like
the other and all of them come with varying degrees of difficulty.
There are altogether 900 km of mountain bike paths and 16,200
metres of altitude wait to be conquered by sturdy calves from the
end of April to mid October. A bike park, an MTB school, as well
as ten professional MTB guides, ensure that everyone will enjoy
themselves.
If the broad offer of mountain bike tours is still not sufficient for
you, we can offer a further highlight of more comfortable cycling
paths, which run through the valley. Culture, tradition and history can easily be linked up in this way. Useful tips for the perfect
choice of route are available at specialised bike hotels or the local
tourist offices. You will receive a printed bike tour or GPS or you
can take part in a guided tour and see how good you are compared to other bikers.
MOUNTAIN BIKING IN KALTERN
Kaltern is the key word, reminding you of Lake Kaltern, its excellent gastronomy and famous wine, which are just as famous on
the northern or southern sides of the Alps. No other region in
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MAGAZINE 2010
South Tyrol is as Mediterranean as Kaltern. Besides eating, relaxing and dolce vita, Kaltern offers many opportunities for mountain biking, due to its hilly and mountainous natural landscape.
The possibility to get active, breathe in deeply and discover the
surrounding landscape with impressive nature, enchants many
tourists to spend their holidays with us. The area around Lake
Kaltern is an ideal starting point for many comfortable cycling
tours, but also invites ambitious and sporty bikers to find the
right tour for themselves. A variety of tours to beautiful lookouts, comfortable pubs and adventurous stops, let any bikers’
heart beat faster. The well-marked cycling and walking paths,
the unique nature, great views, with huts and pubs in regular
intervals, make mountain biking in Kaltern very interesting and
varied. The following is a tip for the Mendel Pass tour. There
are two routes. One, where you have to work hard to arrive at
the pass … or the alternative route using the cable railway. The
Mendel railway, which covers 850 metres of altitude in only 12
minutes, is the longest and steepest railway in Europe and was
built between 1898 and 1903. This way, you save your power for
the interesting ride back to Kaltern or for other mountain bike
tours the next day. Another great cycling tour leads you from
the wine village of Kaltern to Fennberg. At this point, you could
have a quick rest at Fennberg Lake and refresh yourself. Very experienced bikers can extend this tour to the Fennberg Lake and
ride on towards Margreid, Kurtatsch, Tramin and via Altenburg
back to Kaltern.
If you prefer to go on your holiday without your bike, you always can hire one in Kaltern. If you prefer to cycle in a group,
there are two guided bike tours every week … or you can book
a private guide. Professional cycling guides will lead all willing
cyclists to the most beautiful spots, show them some secret lookout places and bring them back to their base point in Kaltern.
SPORT & MORE
EventCard: Bike & Rail
Eventcards include a one-day ticket for unlimited
travel on the Bozen–Meran–Malles/Mals railway
line, as well as a full day’s bicycle and helmet
rental. You may purchase your eventcard from all
bicycle rental offices located along the Vinschgau/
Venosta Valley line. Cards may also be purchased
from any automatic ticket machine. Bicycles can
be rented at eight stations along the Vinschgau
line from Bolzano Sud/Bozen Süd to Mals and in
Resia/Reschen (all train services terminate at
Mals, no service in Reschen).
www.vinschgerbahn.it
GPS Tracks online
DISTANCE MEASURED
At the end, just another little challenge for you: South Tyrol’s first
permanent measured route for mountain bikers and runners is
from Tramin (276 metres) to the ‘Verbrenntes Egg’ (1,856 metres).
You need to overcome 1,600 metres of altitude and be faster than
the current record. Participation is easy: buy a measuring card
at Hotel Traminerhof for € 2.50, ask them to stamp it and run as
quickly as you can up the mountain. Then stamp the card again
there. You might want to rest a little and enjoy the view before
you bring your card back to the hotel. A little motivation: all participants take part in a raffle at the end of the season!
If you are still not tired, we have another tip for you: The Sarntal
Valley Alps offer great challenges. For example, if you are ready
to conquer the ‘Stoanernen Mandln’ by mountain bike, you can
count yourself as one of the truly well-established mountain bikers in the planet.
The Upper Etsch region, with the surrounding
mountain slopes, is an ideal area for easy to
demanding tours. The best of these have been
recorded digitally and are available free of charge
for download. In addition, the tourist offices in
Kaltern and Eppan will give you competent advice
and can hire you GPS equipment. Further information on www.kaltern.com, www.eppan.com
Nature hiking tours
The Trudner Horn Nature Park is the most
southern of the seven South Tyrolean nature parks.
With high forests and bush forests, as well as wide
alpine meadows, it spreads from an altitude of 220 m
to 1,700 m. Through its sub-Mediterranean
vegetation zone, it provides a habitat for many
plants and animals. Information about guided
hiking tours, events and afternoons for children on
www.provinz.bz.it/naturparke
SPOTLIGHT
Roland Schopper
Chief editor and photographer at Action
Sport & Lifestyle Magazine www.x-aces.com.
Photographs and carries out PR work
for organisations such as ‘The Voice’, Ralph
Schader at Football Training Camps
of the HSV, VfL Wolfsburg and other
events. He also is involved in Kinderecho
Darmstadt and other newspapers.
The Altrei coffee is a type of lupin, which for
decades has been used for a type of coffee, which
is mixed barley or wheat. This plant is a local
speciality from a botanic point of view, as well
as part of the South Tyrolean cultural history.
The tourist office of Altrei organises excursions
throughout the village with Altrei coffee tasting.
MAGAZINE 2010
19
TEXT WOLFGANG MAIER
Willkommen!
Bienvenue!
Welcome!
In Cabaret, au Cabaret, a Cabaret of
South Tyrolean enjoyments
For a number of years, the South Tyrolean gastronomy has successfully aligned itself with wine agriculture
during the important festivals of the Middle Ages. The
markets and town squares, which were always the centre
of a blossoming eating culture during the Renaissance,
are now transformed into extravagant stages for games,
dance and entertainment. In times gone by, it was usually the aristocrats who had reason to celebrate – today, an
entire village is involved.
Come in, ladies and gentlemen, Mes Dames et Messieurs! Good
evening! Welcome to all visitors. We are glad to see you! I am the
conference leader of the South Tyrolean Enjoyment Cabaret. Before the curtain lifts, allow me to address you with some words.
South Tyrol is German-speaking, as well as Italian and Ladin. A
real South Tyrolean consists of a third of Italian happy go lucky
nature and nearly two thirds old Austrian stubbornness. He is
thick-headed, very welcoming and often sentimental … but then,
there are also the Ladin elements. They are even more thick-headed on working days, but much more relaxed during the holidays.
In South Tyrol, they eat ‘Knödel’, spaghetti and Turtres, as well as
speck, risotto and doughnuts. A quick glance at the menu and
into cookery books is enough to make you understand that we
are dealing with something multi-cultural. Gourmets lick their
tongues when they read what was served on South Tyrolean tables during the 18th Century. In 1802, the new Brixen bishops enjoyed ‘chicken pie with ‘Knödel‘ as well as ‘curdled hen blood‘. In
1825, Arch-Earl Johann travelled through Tyrol. His kitchen chef
cooked 12 young doves daily and 8 young hens, plus cooked four
older hens for soup. In 1839, they celebrated the arrival of Emperor
Friedrich I in Sand in Taufers with steamed doves and lentils, with
eel and lemon, as well as with almond gateau.
Come in, ladies and gentlemen, Mes Dames et Messieurs! Today, we celebrate the arrival of empirical dishes! The great cellar
masters are known far beyond our borders, the cooking brigade is
Festive table, prepared by Herbert Hintner for more than 300 guests
MAGAZINE 2010
21
A beautiful train station
FESTIVE DINNER TABLE IN ST. PAULS
The ‘festive dinner table’, described by some gastronomy journalists as the most beautiful table in Italy, is a logistic masterpiece
situated in the most comfortable lanes of St. Pauls. Frankly speaking, it is South Tyrol’s most risky outdoor meal. Only short, heavy
rainfall would ruin this 130 metre long table with its fabric serviettes and delicate crystal glass arrangements, while more than
300 guests would run and look for cover. Herbert Hintner is the
head of the cooking team. He is renowned as the best South Tyrolean star chef. The proprietor of the Eppan restaurant ‘Zur Rose‘
has awakened traditional South Tyrolean cuisine with much feeling and inspiration, bringing new life. Classic, international cuisine
is his strong foundation and for this reason, he is not shaken easily
by the quickly changing trends in the world of dining. Herbert
Hintner is always on the go. He masters the entire repertoire of
the professional media within South Tyrolean gastronomy. His facial expressions reach from genial to conventional. He works like
a slave and makes a lot of noise, as if he was in a Roman galley.
But don’t be afraid, this is part of the choreography of the Festive
Table of St. Pauls.
MOMENTS OF DELIGHT
fantastic. There is no fear of boredom! Here, they produce the best
wines, while the greatest self-promoters cook for you! Don’t be
afraid of proud head chefs, who proudly present you with guinea
fowl wrapped in speck. Block out any heart-rendering screams
from the kitchen and enjoy the fragrances blowing in through
the door. Please stay! All of this is part of the choreography in the
great South Tyrolean Enjoyment Cabaret. Voilà! Curtain up!
Magic table!
The ‘Festive table in the streets of St. Pauls‘
(27th July 2010) under the direction of star chef
Herbert Hintner has been the highlight of gastronomy in South Tyrol since its launch in 2003. It is
pure culinary enjoyment to the max and a great
atmosphere can also be enjoyed at the ‘South
Tyrolean Enjoyment Theatre’ in the new lake bath
in Kaltern (5th June 2010) and at the ‘Night of the
Senses – Gourmet cuisine on the cat walk’ in
Sarnthein (end of June 2010).
Culinary Weeks
ENJOYMENT THEATRE IN KALTERN
The Kaltern population are also called ‘God’s children‘ in their
neighbourhood. In earlier years, they had more Vernatsch in their
wine cellars than water in Lake Kaltern. Today, the Kaltern wines
are one of the best in the country. True pioneering can be seen in
the foundation of the ‘wein.kaltern‘ association, as wine-growing
estates. Gastronomy itself and tourist offices have found a way to
co-operate more professionally with each other. One of the common initiatives is the Wine Hiking Day in April, ‘All in White’ in June
and the Kaltern Wine Days in September. In addition, every second
year in June, there is a guest performance by international chefs at
Lake Kaltern. The first performance was give by Roland Trettl, the
most daring South Tyrolean cuisine artist of his kind, who became
famous as chef de cuisine at the ‘Ikarus’ in Salzburg airport.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
GASTRONOMIC NIGHT JOURNEY AT THE RITTEN MOUNTAIN
When it gets really hot, stressed out inhabitants of the valley move
•
Culinary Speciality Weeks in Jenesien, in April
Enjoy your meal! Regional specialties in Bozen,
in April
Asparagus Weeks in Terlan, Vilpian and
Siebeneich, in April/May
‘Gewürztraminer Kuchl‘ in Tramin, in May
Gastronomic Night Journeys with the Ritten
railway at the Ritten mountain, from May to
August Candle Light Dinner in the Rittner Horn
cable car during summer
‘Sarner Morgreti Essn‘ in six restaurants in the
Sarntal valley, from 9th to 18th July
October Wine Pleasure in Tramin, during the
month of October
3rd Gastronomic Tour in Kaltern, in October
Culinary Weeks in Mölten, in November
SPOTLIGHT
The most important Terlan asparagus
accompaniment is the ‘Bozen Sauce’: Maria
Huber from Terlan was the one who served it
in the 1920s for the fi rst time to hungry guest
from Bozen. The original recipe for four people:
Squash two hard-boiled eggs and mix them with
oil, vinegar and a little salt; add one tablespoon
of fi nely cut chives.
Top chef Roland Trettl was born in Kaltern
MAGAZINE 2010
23
For about eight years, the Eggerhof in Aldein
has produced high-quality egg pasta. The product
is made from free-range eggs. Nine different
shapes and twelve different dough mixes are
available, including three herbal varieties, with
spelt wholemeal, egg pasta, spinach, octopus,
Lagrein and Cabernet, Gewürztraminer, turnip
leaves, blood (for ‘Schwoas’-pasta) and chestnuts.
www.eggerhof.it
Original Sacher
Since 1832, the original recipe of the Sacher
gateau has been a strictly kept secret and exclusively made in the Sacher patisserie in Vienna. In
Bozen, near the Waltherplatz, you can fi nd the fi rst
and only Sacher Shop outside Austria.
www.sachershop.it
Farm Delicatessen
The ‘Red Rooster’ brochure introduces 50 small
South Tyrolean farmhouses together with their
products. These products can be bought at the
farm, at local markets or in exquisite Delicatessen
shops. This brochure gives you all the addresses,
as well as a number of recipes, which makes it to
a unique travel guide fi lled with gourmet taste.
Available free of charge at
www.redrooster.it
BOOK
Tyrolean Specialities
Tyrolean Specialities is one book of the series
of culinary guides of different countries and
regions. The recipes are described in an easy
way and awesome pictures are of help when
preparing the meal. Special terms are explained
in detail and a kitchen lexicon provides the
reader with an overview to understand the
country-typical food and ways of preparation.
www.kompass.at
24
MAGAZINE 2010
INFO & MORE
Pasta made in Aldein
themselves to the higher regions of the Ritten mountain. Historically, the Ritten railway offers evening trips up to the mountain
where visitors can enjoy some gastronomic night journeys. Guests
enjoy a trip in an originally restored art-nouveau wagon, the Ritten narrow gage train, which celebrated its 100th anniversary only
a short while ago! On the five stops, Ritten pub owners serve a
different course with the relevant suitable wine. Wine tip: Just in
case you can see a bottle of Lagrein Kretzer – take good hold of it,
as this is a traditional South Tyrolean rosé wine, which can cause
very comfortable hot flushes. There is no better wine to be had in
this region. A music band will enchant you with different music
styles throughout the entire journey.
NIGHT OF THE SENSES IN THE SARNTAL VALLEY
There are three dozen tunnels and even more tight bends
throughout the Sarntal Valley, so that inhabitants were relatively
safe in the past, from encountering any nervous city people. Of
course, city people have arrived in the meantime, but nonetheless, the Sarntal Valley comfort and lifestyle are still in place. Apart
from the surrounding quietness, guests can enjoy tongue-breaker
dishes such as Striezlar, Oufnar, Pfinggischt-Grunggln, Türkenmus
and Broutar. Some of the best chefs in South Tyrol come from the
Sarntal Valley, chefs such as Gregor Wenter (Hotel Bad Schörgau),
Heinrich Schneider (Restaurant Auener Hof) and Gottfried Messner (Restaurant Braunwirt). During the summer, this trio transforms
the Sarnthein square into a culinary night of the senses. With a catwalk right beside the dinner tables, models walk and dance like in
a French cabaret. Besides traditional dishes, they also offer new
creations such as pannacotta made of kohlrabi with ‘Selchkarree’
and ‘Ministriezel’, roasted veal medallion with dried mushroom
juice, or iced shredded pancakes with turnip sauce. If the chefs
or models are a little behind in time, a cabaret artist turns up and
saves the situation! Sometimes even the entire local theatre group
are there. As you can see, humour is very important in the Sarntal
Valley.
KASTELLO IN BOZEN
And now, Ladies and Gentlemen, Mes Dames et Messieurs, it is
time! If you believe that only Hans-Peter Wodarz with is ‘pomp,
duck and circumstance’ can present a world show with slapstick,
jonglage and roasted duck, you are thoroughly mistaken. Even
here, behind the seven mountains, where the South Tyrolean
dwarves are at home, there is a chef for the most spoilt, most beautiful and richest of all. It is not just any chef, but it’s Norbert Niederkofler, the highest decorated chef of all, who with his ‘Kastello –
Gourmet Varieté’ at Castle Maretsch was awarded a world prize
for the Bozen December celebrations. Now we wait for the next
time, when Norbert Niederkofler will once again enchant us as
our kindest, friendliest and most intelligent South Tyrolean cuisine
artist. This is exactly what he is.
Wolfgang Maier
Born in Bozen in 1960, grew up
in Tramin. Studied in Innsbruck, Vienna
and Berlin. Since 1994, he is the ‘Culinary
staff member‘ of the weekly newspaper
‘ff’. Publications on the subject
of Food & Drink.
Our best
GASTRO
GUIDE
Bolzano and environs tastes excellent. This is confirmed by important restaurant
and gourmet guides, which present different types of awards each year to gastronomy
locations in Bozen and its environs.
Edition
2009
locality
+39 0471
Osterie
d'italia
Gault Millau
Südtirol
Fischbänke
Bozen
971 714
Lounge Exil Café
Bozen
971 814
mentioned
Nadamas (international)
Bozen
980 684
mentioned
Bozen
053 366
mentioned
Bamboo Bar
Bozen
050 358
mentioned
Gasthof Gutmann
Bozen
273 435
12/20
Gasthaus Haselburg
Bozen
402 130
12/20
Gasthaus Hopfen & Co.
Bozen
300 788
Gasthof Kohlern
Bozen
329 978
mentioned
Gasthaus Weißes Rössl
Bozen
973 267
mentioned
Bozen
050 950
12/20
Bozen
981 718
12,5/20
12/20
Restaurant Blue Moon
Bozen
972 128
Restaurant Forsterbräu
Bozen
977 243
Restaurant Laurin Belle Epoque
Bozen
311 000
14/20
Paulaner Stuben
Bozen
980 407
mentioned
Restaurant Rastbichler
Bozen
261 131
mentioned
Restaurant Van Gogh Mondschein
Bozen
975 642
13/20
Restaurant Vögele
Bozen
973 938
12/20
Restaurant Walther’s
Bozen
982 548
mentioned
Restaurant Zenzero
Bozen
301 966
Gasthof Unterweg
Jenesien
354 273
Gasthof Patauner
918 502
510 288
Restaurant Arena Weinegg
Eppan
662 511
Landgasthof Bad Turmbach
Eppan
662 339
662 407
14/20
662 249
16/20
Restaurant Ansitz Pillhof
Eppan
633 100
mentioned
Restaurant Aehrental
Kaltern
962 222
Restaurant Castel Ringberg
Kaltern
960 010
14/20
Restaurant Siegi’s
Kaltern
665 721
mentioned
090 003
880 116
Gasthaus Schwarz Adler
Kurtatsch
880 224
Buschenschank Santlhof
Kurtatsch
880 700
Gasthof Dorfnerhof
Restaurant Johnson & Dipoli
Gasthof Fichtenhof
Montan
819 798
Neumarkt
820 323
Salurn
889 028
13/20
mentioned
Eppan
Tramin
mentioned
73/100
mentioned
Eppan
Kurtatsch
14/20
mentioned
Restaurant Zur Rose
Gasthaus Zur Rose
80/100
mentioned
Restaurant Marklhof
Garten Hofstätter
87/100
16,5/20
mentioned
86/100
79/100
14/20
mentioned
15/20
78/100
13,5/20
mentioned
mentioned
mentioned
mentioned
Sarntal
623 055
14/20
76/100
14/20
Restaurant Bad Schörgau
Sarntal
623 048
14/20
80/100
13,5/20
Restaurant Braunwirt
Sarntal
620 165
13/20
Gasthof Ansitz Kematen
Ritten
356 356
Ritten
365 267
Restaurant Parkhotel Holzner
Ritten
345 231
13/20
89/100
84/100
mentioned
mentioned
mentioned
14/20
14/20
Gasthaus Signaterhof
Ritten
365 353
13/20
Restaurant Zirmerhof
Radein
887 215
14/20
Restaurant Krone
Aldein
886 825
14/20
77/100
14,5/20
Restaurant Ploner
Aldein
886 556
14/20
80/100
14/20
Restaurant Zur Mühle
Truden
869 210
Altrei
882 140
Gasthaus Kürbishof
89/100
mentioned
Restaurant Auener Hof
Gasthaus Patscheiderhof
Ristoranti
di Veronelli
86/100
14/20
Restaurant Hostaria Argentieri
Andrian
Guida
l'Espresso
12,5/20
Wirtshaus Batzenhäusl
Siebeneich
Michelin
Guida
Rossa
mentioned
Nussbaumer
Restaurant Schwarzer Adler
Gambero
Rosso
87/100
mentioned
13/20
mentioned
13/20
88/100
MAGAZINE 2010
25
TEXT HERBERT ROSENDORFER
Wine and
aristocracy
– noble wines
The ’Schlössl’ near Neumarkt
It is hard to say what dates back further in the Upper
Etsch region: the aristocracy or the wine.
The Terentii and Cornelii families’ lived during the Raetian times
in Girlan and on the Schreckbichl mountain they also built their
villas there. That is, villas in the Antique way of thinking: Villae,
which meant residences surrounded by large parks. Unfortunately, nothing remains of these families villas even though the spirit
of aristocracy still blows across the country. This type of Roman
spirit was much appreciated by the population. In contrast to the
pseudo-Romans, i.e. those who were not part of the aristocracy,
arrived about 2,000 years later, but had as much in common with
the Romans as the Eskimos.
About half of the Italian journeys of German kings led them
through Tyrol, across the Brenner Pass and down the Etschtal Valley. Tyrol was the eye of the needle and a handful of people could
easily hold up an entire army at certain places along the Eisacktal
Valley. For this reason, the kings and emperors gave the land to
reliable bishops who appointed faithful counts and overseers.Unfortunately, some of them were not as reliable as planned – but
that is another story. However, history makes it clear that South
Tyrol, particularly the Upper Etsch area, with its inner castles, fortresses and residences, was one of the richest areas in the world. In
the Upper Etsch region, there were more residences, castles and
fortresses than churches – and that is saying something in the
country of Tyrol.
MAGAZINE 2010
27
Secret tip: the wine teaching trail passes the Baron Widmann wine-growing estate
Or was there a different reason for that love for this land? Maybe
the Terentii and Cornelii families, or also some of the Sulpicii and
Valerii are now extinct, but not the vines they have left behind.
The aristocratic Lords of Ulten, Boymont, Korb and Firmian, as well
as nobilities from abroad such as Andechser, von Greifenstein and
Morit recognised quite quickly the through pressing and fermentation, these little grapes could be made into a drink, bringing
people … joy. Vitis vinifera Linné, the ‘genuine vine’ is – if cared
for accordingly – as aristocratic as the blue blood that aristocratic
history made in the Upper Etsch region.
The Counts of Eppan can no longer be found. The last one,
Egno, was Bishop of Brixen and then of Trent. He was terrified,
when during the wild 13th Century, the Counts of Tyrol took over
power in Tyrol and gave it their own name. Of course, this family
died out as well and their land was taken over by the Habsburgs.
However, the small world of the Upper Etsch region held on to its
nobility. Some families perpetuated themselves in the stone door
frames, the coats of arms or in historic documentation. The Firmian, Mörl, Khuen, von Egen and some other families, however, kept
on growing. Now people came to power, who had become rich
over time in Bozen through their trade and appearance, as well as
through wine cultivation. They were blessed by the merchants,
who brought their riches from the emperor in Vienna, including
patents of nobility and coats of arms. Some bought residences
and others built them. The nobility began to mix. A great connoisseur, not only of history but also of wine, Jul Bruno Laner, says that
it is difficult to decide whether all aristocratic wine growers are
actually as aristocratic as they say. But never mind! In the end, it is
all the same.
BARON WIDMANN
The self-sufficient wine-growing estate of Baron Widmann is located in the old family residence in the centre of Kurtatsch. Since
1824, the family has pressed its own wines. The grapes for the
wine making come from their own vineyards, which can be found
28
MAGAZINE 2010
all around Kurtatsch, in altitudes of 220 to 600 metres above sea
level. Beside wine, the Auhof in Entiklar produces also an interesting assortment of wine and fruit vinegar.
www.baron-widmann.it
BARON DI PAULI
For more than 100 years, the Di Pauli family has run its wine-growing estate, helped by its good connections to the Vienna aristocracy. They were awarded the title ‘K&K Hoflieferant‘ (purveyor to
the court). During the 19th Century, the Di Pauli wines were extremely popular with the Vienna aristocracy and the Upper Middle Classes of this time. The disastrous effects of both world wars,
as well as the general crisis of South Tyrolean wine production
during the 60s and 70s, brought their own wine production to a
stand-still. However, in 1999, the Baron Di Pauli family decided to
revive the estate once again.
www.barondipauli.com
MANINCOR: COUNT GÖESS-ENZENBERG
Hieronymus Manincor zu Ehrenhausen built the ‘Manincor‘ in
1608. Through his marriage, Manincor and the Enzenberg family
were united in 1662. His service to Tyrol brought him the title of
a Count. Though the Enzenberg family produced wine for more
than 300 years in South Tyrol, ‘Manincor‘ was only owned by the
family in 1977. Manincor was developed from one of the largest
grape suppliers in South Tyrol to an independent wine-growing
estate and delivers only the highest quality. It is Manincor’s heritage that ‘noblesse oblige’ to understand and develop contemporary tradition.
www.manincor.com
CASTEL SALLEGG: COUNT KUENBURG
The history of Castle Sallegg goes back a long time and is marked
by the family: the Arch Earl Rainer of Austria, Vice-King of Lombardia and the Veneto, who bought the castle during this year, as well
Boymont Fortress near Missian/Eppan:
vineyards and fortresses mark the landscape
in the Upper Etsch region
Castle Salurn, later also called Haderburg, was
built by the Counts of Salurn during the fi rst half
of the 13th Century. It was owned by Count
Meinhard II of Tyrol and later by the Habsburg
dynasty. Since 1648, Haderburg has been owned
by the Venetian Count Zenobio-Albrizzi. Since its
renovation in 2003, the castle also avails of a pub
and offers a number of musical, literary and
folklore events.
Cultural-historic Castle trip
The area around Bozen is one of the European
regions with the most castles and fortresses. In
Eppan, there are more than 100 listed residences,
mansions, castles and fortresses, which present to
us the cultural and art history of the municipality.
The new ‘castle trip hiking guide’ (Schlossparcours Wanderführer) accompanies all those
interested in culture on their walk from residence
to residence. Available at the tourist office Eppan.
The state of the Vinobardes
The state of the Vinobardes, whose reigning
prince is Jul Bruno Laner, was founded in 1995 in
South Tyrol. In 1999, at the main square in Tramin,
the zero meridian was erected: it gives the
direction and distance to the most important
wine-growing region all over the world.
www.vinobarden.info
On the best wine teaching trail
The three existing wine teaching trails in
Bolzano and environs (wein.weg in Kaltern, the
wine teaching trail in Kurtatsch and wine teaching
trail ‘Hoher Weg‘ Gschleier in Girlan/Eppan)
have now been extended to include a fourth tour
in Spring 2010: the Terlan wine teaching trail.
Numerous panels explain everything worth
knowing about the Terlan wine history and
culture. Walking time: about 1.5 hours.
wein.kaltern
Kaltern pours its wines into the specially
created Riedel glass and guides its visitors with
an unconventional system (the wein.weg) through
its town and vineyards. It marks quality-conscious
pubs, restaurants and hotels with a red point and
presents the very best Kaltern wine-growing
estates have to offer, at the Punkt wine
house at the town square.
www.wein.kaltern.com
30
MAGAZINE 2010
CASTLES & WINE
The Haderburg castle near Salurn
Michael Count Göess-Enzenberg
as its surrounding orchards and vineyards. In a direct heritage line,
the entire ownership came via the Princes of Campofranco to the
Counts of Kuenburg. The castle’s cellars are up to eleven metres
deep and divided over three levels. They are testimony that life at
the castle and wine-growing are tied together in South Tyrol.
www.castellsallegg.it
CASTEL SCHWANBURG
In 1286, the ‘House of Gaul‘ was mentioned for the first time. Today’s residence, coming from the Renaissance, was mentioned
during the 14th Century as the Schwanburg. The loggias of this
picturesque castle are partly made of Roman stone. The wine
cellar holds egg-shaped wooden barrels from the time of Maria
Theresia. The Schwanburg changed ownership from the nobility
of Boymont-Payersberg to the Count Trapp family. The Thaler family from Nals presented their nephew Rudolf Carli with the deeds
and his descendants head up this typical South Tyrolean winegrowing estate today.
www.schwanburg.com
RESIDENCE KRÄNZL: COUNT VON PFEIL
The vineyards of Tscherms are first mentioned in 1182 as a gift to
the Füssen cloisters in Bavaria. More than 400 years ago, Tscherms
and its surrounding areas were an excellent place for profitable
wine-growing. The oldest document known comes from the year
1350. The old residence, the huge Torggl (wine press) in the cellars, as well as the wine receipts and correspondence from 1577,
present us with a very old wine-growing tradition.
www.labyrinth.bz
WINE
GUIDE
Excellent wines
The Italian wine guides of 2009 have awarded a number of top grades to South Tyrolean
wines. White wines are particularly popular, with the Gewurztraminer top of the pack.
For the red wines, the Lagrein is a definite leader. In the list of wine-growing estates, it is
the Kellerei Terlan (3 star, Veronelli), as well as Kellerei Nals Margreid (wine-growing
estate of the year, D’Agata & Comparini) who have successfully won prices. What’s
incredible is that the Kellerei Kaltern enhances the most important wine guides with its
Passito Serenade. For more information click on www.southtyrolwine.it
GUIDA VINI D’ITALIA DE L’ESPRESSO 2009
’5 bottiglie‘
Terlaner Sauvignon 2007
Ignaz Niedrist, Girlan/Eppan
Exilissi Ice 2004
Baron di Pauli, Kaltern
Feldmarschall 2007
Tiefenbrunner, Entiklar/Kurtatsch
Sauvignon Lafòa 2007
Kellerei Schreckbichl/Eppan
Sauvignon Voglar 2006
Peter Dipoli, Neumarkt
Pinot Noir Riserva 2005
Weingut Stroblhof, Eppan
Lagrein Grieser Riserva Select 2005
H. Rottensteiner, Bozen
Lagrein Riserva Tor di Lupo 2006
Andrianer Kellerei
Cabernet Riserva 2005
Unterganzner Josephus Mayr, Bozen
Goldmuskateller Passito Serenade Castel
Giovanelli 2005
Kellerei Kaltern
DUEMILAVINI AIS 2009
’5 grappoli’
Terlaner Weißburgunder 1996
Kellerei Terlan
Sauvignon Sanct Valentin 2007
Kellerei St. Michael/Eppan
Sauvignon Lafòa 2007
Exilissi Ice 2004
Baron di Pauli, Kaltern
Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2007
Gewürztraminer Terminum Vendemmia
Tardiva 2006
Kellerei Tramin
Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof 2007
Pinot Noir Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano 2005
J. Hofstätter, Tramin
Pinot Noir Riserva 2006
Josef Niedermayr, Girlan/Eppan
Pinot Noir Sanct Valentin 2005
Lagrein Abtei Riserva 2005
Klosterkellerei Muri-Gries, Bozen
Lagrein Taber Riserva 2006
Cabernet Mumelter Riserva 2006
Kellerei Bozen
Cabernet Löwengang 2004
Alois Lageder, Margreid
Amistar Rosso Edizione 2005
Peter Sölva & Söhne, Kaltern
Goldmuskateller Passito Baronesse Baron
Salvadori 2006
Kellerei Nals Margreid
Giovanelli 2005
Kellerei Kaltern
Rosenmuskateller 2006
Franz Haas, Montan
I VINI DI VERONELLI 2009
’Super Tre Stelle’
Gewürztraminer Campaner 2007
Giovanelli 2005
Kellerei Kaltern
Gewürztraminer Vendemmia Tardiva
Terminum 2006
Kellerei Tramin
Gewürztraminer Brenntal 2007
Kellerei Kurtatsch
Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof 2007
Pinot Noir Barthenau Vigna
Sant‘Urbano 2005
J. Hofstätter, Tramin
Pinot Noir Filari di Mazzòn 2006
Ferruccio Carlotto, Auer
Pinot Noir Mason di Mason 2005
Weingut Manincor, Kaltern
Lagrein Gries Riserva 2006
Euforius Weinberg Dolomiten IGT rot 2006
Weiß Passito Aureus 2006
Josef Niedermayr, Girlan/Eppan
Lagrein Riserva Glögglhof 2006
Franz Gojer, Bozen
Lagrein Gries Riserva Berger-Gei 2003
Ignaz Niedrist, Girlan/Eppan
Lagrein Riserva Waldgries 2006
Ansitz Waldgries, Christian Plattner, Bozen
Lagrein Grieser Collection
Baron Carl Eyrl 2006
Lagrein Riserva Taber 2006
Merlot Riserva Siebeneich 2006
Kellerei Bozen
Chardonnay Löwengang 2005
Cabernet Löwengang 2004
Cabernet Sauvignon Cor Römigberg 2004
Alois Lageder, Margreid
Cabernet Sauvignon Lafòa 2004
Pinot Noir Riserva Selyèt 2004
Col de Rey Weinberg Dolomiten IGT rot 2004
Landesgut Laimburg, Pfatten
Istante Weinberg Dolomiten IGT rot 2004
Franz Haas, Montan
Lamarein 2006
Unterganzner Josephus Mayr, Bozen
Passito Comtess Sanct Valentin 2006
Goldmuskateller Passito Vinalia 2006
Kellerei Bozen
GUIDA AI MIGLIORI VINI D’ITALIA 2009
D’Agata & Comparini
Ruländer Unterebner 2007
Kellerei Tramin
Ruländer Punggl 2007
Müller Thurgau Feldmarschall 2007
Sauvignon Voglar 2006
Peter Dipoli, Neumarkt
Gewürztraminer Lunare 2006
Kellerei Terlan
Beyond the clouds 2006
Elena Walch, Tramin
Passito Comtess Sanct Valentin 2006
Giovanelli 2005
Kellerei Kaltern
GAMBERO ROSSO 2010
’3 bicchieri’
Weißburgunder Dellago 2008
Kellerei Bozen
Weißburgunder Sirmian 2008
Terlaner Weißburgunder Vorberg
Riserva 2006
Kellerei Terlan
Sauvignon Indra 2008
Kellerei Girlan
Sauvignon St. Valentin 2008
Terlaner Sauvignon 2008
Weingut Manincor, Kaltern
Gewürztraminer Kastelaz 2008
Elena Walch, Tramin
Kellerei Tramin
Feldmarschall von Fenner zu Fennberg 2008
Manna 2007
Franz Haas, Montan
Lagrein Abtei Riserva 2006
Klosterkellerei Muri-Gries, Bozen
Lagrein Dunkel Mirell 2007
Weingut Waldgries, Christian Plattner, Bozen
Lagrein Dunkel Taber Riserva 2007
Kellerei Bozen
Gewürztraminer Terminum Spätlese 2007
Kellerei Tramin
Goldmuskateller Passito Serenade 2006
Kellerei Kaltern
MAGAZINE 2010
31
Culturonda Wine
®
The unique wine culture of South Tyrol
TEXT ROSWITHA MAIR
Culturonda® Wine is divided into twelve points with three experience tips,
introducing the variety of the South Tyrolean wine world.
The autochthon Vernatsch is particularly cultivated at Lake Kaltern
Anyone interested in culture and wine, as well as newcomers to
this area have found a guide, which clearly and quickly leads you
to the highlights of South Tyrolean wine history and its wine agriculture.
3,000 years of South Tyrolean wine prove that the valuable grape
juices have always inspired wine lovers. Take the Romans, for example, who transported wine in then unknown, wooden barrels
with an iron ring to the courts of the Roman emperor. Or the Franconia and Bavarian cloisters, which bought one wine-growing estate after the other in South Tyrol. Even under Austrian rule, South
Tyrolean wine cultivation was supported for more than 600 years.
The autochthon grape types such as Lagrein and Vernatsch, as
well as the Gewürztraminer marked the vineyards throughout the
centuries.
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MAGAZINE 2010
WINE EXPERIENCE
Culturonda® wine describes more than just the past, grapes and
wine cultivation. It also shows places and opportunities, where
wine and wine culture can be practically experienced. For example along the South Tyrolean Wine Road, at the wine village of
Kaltern, through its quality campaign wein.kaltern or along the
various wine teaching trails. Wine-growing estates, as well as wine
masters are introduced – not only those who produce exquisite
wines, but also those who are able to set wine into context – be it
through brave, modern architecture or through old and contemporary art. Over the past few years, a number of popular architects
have created true wine temples, while artists transformed these
buildings, cellars and labels into something extraordinary.
When you speak of wine, the fountain of joy, health and beauty,
it is absolutely clear that this also requires good cuisine to keep it
WINELIGHTS & MORE
Wine Culture Weeks in St. Pauls/Eppan
company. The kitchen and cellar form a very enjoyable liaison. The
best example is the wine-growing estate in Terlan, where they
don’t only produce asparagus wine, but also market the Terlan
asparagus itself. Or the old autumn custom of ‘Törggelen‘, where
people walk, drink wine and eat some good traditional farming
specialities at the same time.
The 12th and last point of Culturonda® wine takes you after a
short excursion into the world of legends, into the fascinating
kingdom of senses: wine should be tasted, experienced and enjoyed. There are numerous possibilities to do this all around the
South Tyrolean wine country, but it is a particularly pleasant experience at guided wine cellar tours, walking tours through vineyards and special wine tasting events.
South Tyrolean Wine Road Weeks
‘vino in festa 10’
For one month, from 13th May to 12th June 2010,
the 15 wine-growing villages along the South
Tyrolean Wine Road will be the centre of a very
special series of events. Beginning with the Bozen
Wine Tasting, the South Tyrolean Wine Road
invites you to high-quality events and highlights
based around the theme of wine. Great fi nale:
The Wine Cellar Night on 12th June 2010.
www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it
Highlights
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
LEARN MORE ABOUT IT
The twelve points of the Culturonda® wine with its three experience tips, further information, recommended literature and links
is something for all wine enthusiasts. Available on the internet
from Spring 2010 at www.bolzanzosurroundings.info.
•
•
•
•
•
Wine excursion day in Kaltern on 25th April
88th Bozen Wine tasting at Castle Maretsch in
Bozen from 13th to 16th May
South Tyrolean Pinot Noir Days in Montan and
Neumarkt on 20th and 21st May
Wine Cellar Night along the South Tyrolean
Wine Road on 12th June
‘All in White‘ – Kaltern presents its white wines
on 29th June
Gewürztraminer Wine Lane in Tramin
on 16th July
from 22nd July to 3rd August
Lorenzi Night in Bozen and Andrian
on 10th August
Lowlands Wine Tasting Days in Auer
middle of August
Montiggl White Wines in Montiggl/Eppan
on 20th August
Kaltern Wine Days on 2nd and 3rd September
Tramin Wine Street in Tramin on 16th October
Wine ride – a wine journey
Roswitha Mair
Born in Bozen, resides in Eppan.
Tourism studies in Bruneck and
Venice. Since 2002 at the Tourist
Board Bolzano and environs.
Learn all about South Tyrolean wines for one
day, served up by competent wine growers, as
you enjoy the good company. The Mediterranean
landscape along the South Tyrolean wine road, a
culinary intermezzo and everything worth
knowing about the country and its people –
makes a wine journey on a minibus an unforgettable cultural wine experience. For further
information and dates, please click on
MAGAZINE 2010
33
High-proof
treasures
TEXT JUL BRUNO LANER
What’s schnapps? Originally, schnapps is a Northern-German word, a derivative of the Dutch language
(snap(p)s), which has now spread across the entire German-speaking region.
100 kg fresh grape marc deliver approx. 9–12 litres of grappa
Of course, this term is also used for our South Tyrolean grape juice
distillate. It is said that the Arabs invented schnapps. They liked
the distillation process, the art of purifying and dividing liquid
substances. This is how they produced essences, which carry Oriental fragrances. One day, the workers drunk a little too much of
their distillate, because it tasted so nice. After a few rounds, they
fell asleep. When they woke up, they tried to find out what they
had actually drunk. One said: ‘Alkuhl!’ (this means ‘I forgot‘.) So, the
name developed into alcohol. Other sources believe that the old
Egyptians were already drinking schnapps. Cleopatra’s eyes were
supposed to have been treated with some kind of alcoholic cosmetics.
SOUTH TYROLEAN GRAPPA
Since the 18th Century, the term schnapps became associated
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MAGAZINE 2010
with a quick drink. In South Tyrol, grappa is made of the grape’s
skin. The local schnapps is internationally protected with the term
‘grappa’. Grappa is in a league of its own amongst other spirits
made of fruit or berries. In addition, there are also some types of
liqueur, particularly liqueur incorporating grappa. Good quality
distilleries which are based along the South Tyrolean Wine Road
offer grappa seminars, where they inform you about selection,
fine distilling technology, storage, fantasy, technical knowhow,
quality control, as well as tradition. The seminars are offered via
the tourist offices or directly through individual distilleries, which
open their doors to the public.
It is not so easy to gain an insight into the happy and colourful
world of the distillates, which are usually simply called schnapps.
During the tasting process, the liquid is watched, moved about,
analysed by smelling and finally, tasted on your tongue, palate
GRAPPA & MORE
South Tyrolean Grappa
South Tyrolean grappa is exclusively made
of South Tyrolean grape skin, which is distilled,
produced and bottled in South Tyrol. The grappa
is analysed and quality-checked at least twice a
year. Only after being tested by the ANAG and
achieving at least 75/100 points, can it receive
the South Tyrol quality mark. For further
information click
www.suedtirol.info/grappa
Awarded distilleries
South Tyrolean farmhouses with the
‘Red Rooster’ award produce high-quality
products, including spirits. South Tyrolean
distilleries were awarded 13 medals altogether
during the International Edelbrand Championship
‘Destillata’ in Vienna. The Fischerhof distillery
was listed under the top companies at the exhibition ‘Ab Hof’ in Wieselburg (Austria); the Plonhof
distillery was listed at the Professional Exhibition.
All distilleries can be found at
www.redrooster.it
The gallery of the senses
Distilling – playing with temperatures
and throat, so that all the fragrances and aromas are liberated and
acknowledged. The well-known wine journalist Andreas März
defines a good grappa as follows: ‘First of all, grappa has an
unmistakable, highly aromatic fragrance. The bouquet should
smell neither green nor biting, and the grappa may not contain
faulty aromas. An aggressive nose has nothing to do with typicity. A grappa's fragrance and its intensity are highly dependent
on the varieties of grapes used. A grappa should be powerful,
but never stinging. It is warm, smooth and distinctly fruity.’ For
beautiful women, schnapps can be the finest cosmetics article;
the spirit of men lends wings; and for connoisseurs, it brings quality enjoyment.
The Roner distillery in Tramin comes from
a distillery dynasty and has created the ‘Gallery
of the Senses‘ in their shopping area. Visitors can
dive into the art of distillation, walk through the
‘parlour of senses’ and see, taste and smell to
their hearts content.
www.roner.com
SPOTLIGHT
Jul Bruno Laner
Lives in Bozen as a freelance
publisher. Author of a number of
theatre pieces and books about South
Tyrol, screenplays for TV documentaries
about South Tyrol and fi lms about art and
culture. He writes regularly for national
and international newspapers.
The idea of a pear inside the bottle comes from the
Psenner distillery in Tramin. The pears actually
grow inside the bottle, before it is fi lled. It was a
really great idea and the start of an even greater
tradition, which has been copied many times. In
the 70 hectare orchard of the Psenner company,
the original process is still in use today.
www.psenner.com
MAGAZINE 2010
35
Architectural culture
for travellers
TEXT ANDREAS GOTTLIEB HEMPEL
When you visit a country or region, you are automatically drawn by its architectural heritage,
as it will tell you a lot about the people and their traditions.
Seebad Lido in Kaltern, the next ENTERprise – architects
South Tyrol offers you many architectural monuments from various centuries. However, there is also modern architecture, which
usually has a surprise effect on visitors. The following are some
of them:
The Museion in Bozen not only offers some select highlights
from the international modern art scene, but is also a town planning and architectural master piece. Two elegant sweeping bridges connect the two parts of the town on either side of the Talfer
River, with a silver building, opening to both sides – a symbol of
art connecting both language groups living in the town.
Nearby, the European Academy holds events on the subject of
cohabitation of different cultures in the Alpine region. A building
from the ‘razionalismo’ era, built by Miozzo and Mansutti in 1934
was renovated and altered by the Austrian architect Klaus Kada
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MAGAZINE 2010
in 2002; it is a wonderful example of how the German and Italian
building cultures can be brought together.
The parish church in Leifers will also offer you a great experience. A modern extension, incorporated into Romanic and NewGothic parts of the building, creates an exciting impression. On
the outside, the extension reflects the mountain ranges. On the
inside, visitors are somehow thrown by the sweeping lines on
the floor, walls and ceiling; only the cross has kept its rectangular
shape. The interesting light design gives the impression that the
wood inside this space is actually golden.
Reinhold Messner calls the largest castle ruins in South Tyrol ‘the
enchanted mountain‘. In 2005, he made it the home of the Messner Mountain Museum. These historic walls from where Silvius
Magnago declared his ‘Freedom of Trent‘ in 1957, were rescued in
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(1) The EURAC in Bozen, Klaus Kada (2) Parish church in Leifers, Höller and Klotzner
(3) Museion in Bozen, KSV Krüger Schubert Vandreike (4) New Ritten cable car – innovative technology and transparent architecture
MAGAZINE 2010
37
Seehotel Ambach in Kaltern, Othmar Barth
this way. The insertions, however, are constructed from steel and
placed in such a way, that they can be removed at any time. Truly
an architectural piece of art!
The Ritten mountain is the traditional holiday region for the
Bozen population. Since 1907, it has been possible to get there
by using the rack railway. This was update in 2009 and exchanged
with a new railway system consisting of eight cabins for 35 people
each, which run in a four-minute-cycle. In this way, Oberbozen
can be reached in 12 minutes. Right beside the mountain terminal, you will find Parkhotel Holzner, built in 1908 in Art Nouveau
style – a sensibly modernised holiday hotel.
Another alternative to the car is the funicular railway from
1903, which brings you through a 64% ascent from Kaltern to
the Mendel Pass in 12 minutes. It was renovated in 2008 and
the modern carriages stop once through their journey in order
to help you reach the Kaltern high mountain road. On the pass,
you will find the Grand-Hotel of the Austrian imperial and royal
monarchy. It has been altered and now contains a number of
apartments.
Over the past 20 years, South Tyrol’s wine-growing cultivation
has changed from mass to class and has won numerous awards.
This is also true for the new architecture of some wine-growing
estates, one of which is the Kellerei Tramin, famous for its Gewürztraminer. The extraordinary steel construction will be consecrated
in 2010 and is deemed to be a landmark at the entrance of the
village of Tramin.
The Stroblhof in Eppan was built during the 16th Century. The
well-known hotel and wine-growing estate has been tactfully
renovated several times. Wellness facilities and the modern wine
cellar are hardly visible and melt into the surrounding landscape.
The Old has been successfully merged with the New. A bathing
pond – officially declared as biological – is situated on the 4 hec38
MAGAZINE 2010
Goldener Stern in Kaltern, Thomas Mahlknecht/Igor Comploi
tare wine estate. 40,000 bottles of top wines are made here every
year, which truly gives your holiday a higher note.
You are probably astonished to hear that they have built an
outdoor swimming pool at the shores of the warmest lake in
the Alpine region: Lake Kaltern. Due to its extraordinary, sculptural architecture, it has become a great hit with locals and visitors alike. It gives you illusion of being on a ship’s deck and you
have a great view of surrounding vineyards, the reflecting waters
of the lake, as well as the beautiful mountain world. Absolutely
fabulous!
If you want to enjoy great architecture in the midst of vineyards,
orchards, meadows and nearby the lake, the best place to stay is
Seehotel Ambach. This classic and modern architecture was created in 1974, but it still looks fresh and immaculate! The view of
the lake from the hotel is nearly as beautiful as the panoramic experience when you sit on the sun terrace of the house.
In the centre of Kaltern, you will find the historic pub and guesthouse Stern. After some careful renovations in 2009, it offers not
only tastefully furnished rooms, which reflect a combination of
historic flair and modern design, but also a very classy wine bar
in the upper floor and a wonderful Wellness facility in the quiet
garden area with a view over the roofs of Kaltern.
Hotel Greif right at the Waltherplatz in Bozen is truly number 1. It
was built during the 15th Century and renovated by architect Boris
Podrecca, giving it the modern feel required by our times. Each of
the 33 rooms offers different furnishings, created by several artists.
The Bar Grifoncino also offers an international flair. You can dine in
the park of the neighbouring Grand-Hotel Laurin.
The Sarntal Valley is a truly authentic natural paradise, which you
can particularly enjoy in Hotel Bad Schörgau. ‘Tradition and zeitgeist’ is the motto introduced by the owners, the Wenter Family.
Their cuisine has won awards and they still offer the tradition of the
CULTURE & MORE
Romanesque: Stairways to heaven
Proud fortresses and magnificent castles, colourful
church frescoes and individual, quiet chapels,
picturesque villages and towns in a number of
different cultural landscapes, entice you to use the
‘stairway to heaven’, the Middle Ages in the heart
of the Alps. Bolzano and environs has two pearls
from the Romanesque: the St. Jacob chapel in
Kastelaz near Tramin and the fortress chapel
of Castle Hocheppan in Missian/Eppan.
www.stairwaytoheaven.info
Roman: Via Claudia Augusta
The Via Claudia Augusta runs from Donauwörth
(Germany) to Venice and connects people,
cultures and time. The Roman emperor’s road
can be travelled by post coach, by foot or even
better using a bicycle. The ‘Via Claudia Augusta
cycling guide– from the Danube River to the
Adriatic Sea’ can be ordered at
www.esterbauer.com, www.viaclaudia.org
MMM Firmian
Hotel Greif in Bozen, Boris Podrecca
old ‘farming baths’. The hotel has been artistically renovated and is
harmoniously incorporated into the surrounding landscape.
Since 1890, the Zirmerhof in Oberradein has been open for
business and has had many prominent guests. You will find absolute stillness, mountain sun and panoramic views over more
than 80 peaks at least 3,000 metres high. Nonetheless, it has kept
a traditional farming architecture with old lounges, historic dining rooms and careful modernisation has not touched any of its
authentic atmospheres. The Wellness area is especially and is built
into the mountain, giving views of the wonderful landscape.
In the old walls of Castle Sigmundskron near
Bozen, supported by a modern structure of glass
and steel, Reinhold Messner speaks about the
importance of the mountains for mankind. The
mountains have an enchanting effect on people
and this is what you can feel in Messner’s Mountain Museum Firmian. Opening times: from 1st
Sunday in March to 3rd Sunday in November.
www.messner-mountain-museum.it
Historic guesthouses 2010
This year, the South Tyrolean award is given
to two hotels: to one of the most popular and
renowned Bozen hotels – Parkhotel Laurin – and
to the picturesque Berggasthof Zirmerhof in
Oberradein, which is marked by extraordinary
historic continuity.
To sum it up: The artistic and architectural connection between
the Old and the New is a particular strength of our excellent South
Tyrolean architects, who show lots of creativity and have a feel for
value in a variety of situations.
BOOK
New Architecture in South Tyrol:
2000-2006
Andreas Gottlieb Hempel
Born in 1941, professor of architecture,
journalist, author and sommelier. After 30 years
working as a freelance architect in Munich
and Berlin, president of the Federation of German
Architects, chairman of the German Architecture
Centre in Berlin and Vice-President of the Int.
Architects Union in Paris, he moved to South
Tyrol and writes about his adoptive country.
This up-to-date and comprehensive book on the
new architecture of this Alpine region features 48
buildings from various categories of architecture
including residences, housing, schools, cultural
buildings, and transport buildings. The book
provides an outsider’s view of architecture in
South Tyrol and a critical view of the preservation
and modernisation of existing building fabric.
www.springer.com
MAGAZINE 2010
39
TEXT ALEXANDER ZINGERLE
Brilliant reflection!
Music with horns and custom
The Spanish invented Flamenco; the Italians Belcanto;
in South Tyrol, we love brass band music. Nearly 10,000
active musicians are involved in the 211 music bands
all over the province. Most of these are young people
who are interested in music and love entertainment.
Brass band and folk music are often misunderstood as
being banal, loud and uninteresting.
The march begins with a great fanfare. Trumpets, trombones and
clarinettists happily play together while Lederhosen squeak and
heels click. People with costumes walk in time to the music. With
stern faces, straight backs, stiff shirts and a feather in their cap …
the parade somehow reminds me of a military march. But this is
not the case. It’s simply part of the parade and the wonderful Sarnthein village festival. The cows watch in astonishment, as boys run
after the girls and men talk among themselves … this idyllic village
picture reminds me of the unconquerable population of Wales.
The music band consists of about 50 musicians who all give their
best. Naturally, they really do. Music bands are not only there to
create a lovely atmosphere. They are representatives of their country as soon as tourists walk around the corner. Often, our South Tyrolean bands are invited to places such as the Rhineland, Northern
Germany, and even California. They look at themselves as a living
tradition and as the pillars of Tyrolean folk culture. These musicians can be found at all types of concerts, at parish church festivals, funerals and weddings. Tradition is important. Steadfastness
Marching with the conductor
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41
Traditional costumes and instruments are usually owned by the music band
and faithfulness to your country are as important as an economic
boom during this time of globalisation. In our country, opening a
new company, consecrating anything or a simple festival cannot
be considered without a music band. Without brass music, the actual framework is missing. Like a pot without a bottom.
RENAISSANCE OF BRASS MUSIC
Brass music is as much part of South Tyrol as Törggelen or
Reinhold Messner. There are more music bands than villages and
towns (211 vs. 116), more young musicians than old, (54.9% of all
musicians have not yet reached the age of 30) and there are altogether nearly 10,000 brass musicians. The central instrument in
each band is the ‘horn of plenty‘. Nearly four million Euros were
invested into our South Tyrolean music bands during 2008: instruments, costumes, halls, seminars etc. If a musician wants to
become a member of a band, he needs a performance medal
– either gold, silver or bronze. Tournaments also increase the
quality of the games: just as in sports clubs, members of music
bands qualify through playing and walking. ‘Musicians are well
educated people nowadays. Everyone gives their best‘, says Andreas Andergassen of Kaltern. For three years, the 28 year old has
played trombone, is a horn player and leader in the music band
at Neumarkt. He only works part-time in his actual profession as a
carpenter, so that he can enjoy his music as well. He loves creativity, the perfectionism while playing and also the ceremony itself.
Traditional songs and marches are only part of the programme.
Nowadays, they also play James Bond or songs from movies and
TV, harmonies by James Last and even every now and then, a
Dixie tune. A music band today is very modern, frankly speaking.
Tyrolean songs are also incorporated into their programme, together with rock, groove and beat, as well as a medley from AC/
DC and Udo Jürgens. The bands have names such as Volxrock,
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Sauguat or Vollbluet. They use about one dozen different instruments and are one of the best entertainers in the country. But
this is not all. Traditionally, groups or clubs are ‘strictly men‘; this is
true for the fire brigade, the riflemen and numerous sports clubs.
Ladies are more looked at as the decoration and frill. They play
clarinet, flute or horn, or they wear their costume, carry a barrel of
schnapps and lead the eyes of the men towards them. However,
only men are allowed into the conductor’s area. At least usually!!
Cäcilia Perkmann has encouraged more female self-confidence
in the men’s world of music bands. She is only 26 years of age. For
three years, she has been the conductor of the Zwölfmalgreien
music band in Bozen. Before that, she conducted for the band in
Tisens. The larger part of her 50 musician brass music ensemble
are young men. They all make music according to the instructions given by young Cäcilia and her beautiful eyes. Cäcilia originally came from Vilpian and has completed a master’s course in
conducting, as well as studies at the Linz Music University and
the European Institute for Music in Trent and Mezzocorona – and
qualified at a high level. She is willing to work hard and earn the
respect of the men she ‘plays’ with.
COLOUR PALETTE OF FOLK MUSIC
‘Caring for folk music is not to carry away the ashes, but to carry
on the fire‘, says Roland Walcher Silbernagele. He is in his 30s and
comes from the wine village of St. Pauls; he leads local folk music
TV events. He always keeps an eye on the musical background
of his programme: the events take place in a local pub, where
the zither, dulcimer and harmonica sound great together. ‘Folk
music is far more colourful than people might think. The songs
were always at the centre of tradition, creating a mirror image.
Music is critical, erotic and a healthy valve for society’, says Walcher Silbernagele.
EVENTS & MORE
Grand Prix for Folk Music
Brothers Ulrich and Otto Messner from Andrian
are also known as Vincent and Fernando and
have been awarded the popular mountain crystal
trophy at the Grand Prix of Folk Music in 2009
with their song ‘The Angle of Marienberg’. In
2006, Rudy Giovannini & Belsy sang together
with the Monte Pallidi choir ‘Salve Regina‘
and in 1990, the Kastelruther Spatzen won
with ‘Tears don’t suit you’.
www.vincentfernando.com
10th Köfele Festival with Rudy Giovannini
on 4th and 5th June in Leifers
For more than 10 years, Rudy Giovannini has
been at the top of folk music. For about the same
number of years, this descendant of Leifers has
also been called the ‘Caruso of the mountains’.
Ticket sales from 2nd February 2010 at the
tourist office in Leifers.
www.leifers-info.it
Folk Dance – Europeade
Even the youth loves brass music
For years, people have talked about and discussed all aspects
of folk music. This type of music runs easily from the tongue, but
enjoys a little bit of Alpine packaging. Some people call it ‘music
for the simple’, think that the simple tones don’t have a lot to
offer and that the singers do not need an education in order
to perform. Singers just smile and say nothing. In the end, they
earn quite a good living with music. However, the population
loves them: Vincent & Fernando, the Kastelruther Spatzen, Rudy
Giovannini or whatever they might be called. Their highlights are
the annual Grand Prix of Folk Music. Folk music? Pop music? Pub
music, a waltz or even a folk dance. Everyone should enjoy music
just the way they like it!
from 21st to 25th July in Bozen
The Europeade is the largest traditional costume
and Folklore spectacle in Europe and has taken
place since 1964 – however, always in a different
European city. In 2010, thousands of European
traditional costume bearers will sing, make
music, dance and celebrate in Bozen.
‘Stadl’ time – It starts now!
After the last ‘stadl’ in 2005, the time has come
again: on 18th September 2010, the Bozen exhibition centre brings a live transmission of ‘Musikantenstadl‘ with moderator Andy Borg. On the day
before, there is a fi nal rehearsal, which also
starts at 8.15 p.m.
SPOTLIGHT
Alexander Zingerle
Editor of the South Tyrolean lifestyle
magazine ‘IN Südtirol‘. In the past, he
worked for Südtirol Online and Südtirol
Life. He is author or 15 cabaret and
theatrical pieces. Grew up in the Pustertal
Valley, military service in Trento, language
studies in Innsbruck (Austria) and Scotland, resident in the Upper Etsch region.
In the 23 municipalities of Bolzano and
environs, 39 music bands still actively preserve
the brass instrumental music and old traditions.
The Ritten municipality itself lists six traditional
bands, while the municipalities of Sarntal Valley
and Eppan still have four traditional brass
instrumental bands each.
MAGAZINE 2010
43
A village gone mad
Highlighting the Egetmann parade
TEXT WERNER MENAPACE
It’s twelve noon. The eye of the tornado rests right above the village. A strange atmosphere can be
felt, inexplicable expectation, the type of tension you experience just before a storm, which will blast
through the streets and lanes of this village and settle on the main square. The Elemental forces of a
group of 1,000 people.
The Old women, one of the mysterious figures of the parade
It’s not worth trying to describe this parade. Only those of you
who have watched the event in the past can understand that this
parade simply is a must; i.e. those who have not only watched, but
who have dived into the mass of people and sounds, the rattling
of geese, the clip-clop of goats, the hammering at the smithy, the
clattering of metal and tin, the music of the concertina, singing
and shouting, the flapping of wet cloths and the screaming from
the audience. The smoke belches out of the oven, the fragrance
of tuniper, fir and pine branches, exhaust fumes, feather and dust
… (this is when Tramin’s emission levels are going to be too high)!
The fine smell of sausages, omelettes, doughnuts and vin brulée,
not forgetting the perspiration of horses, as well as flying fish …
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MAGAZINE 2010
WILD, NOISY FIGURES
Young men in potato sacks carrying heavy wooden constructions
several metres high, change into pre-historic dragons, running
wildly through the streets and crowds for hours …
Honourable citizens, riding as part of a wild witches group
through the lanes of the village, dancing ancient dances around a
smoking fire and screaming their lungs out …
Dozens of ‘Burgl’ and ‘Burgl beaters’, who fly like the wind
through the lanes, groups of people and porticos, climbing up on
facades or hanging head first out of windows …
Fishermen with an octopus as a head covering, women and
children with wide scheming smiles …
Strong sports men, diving head first into village wells, jumping
around in cold fountains, playing like children …
CATHARSIS THROUGH ECSTASY
I guess this sums up what the Egetmann parade is like! It is a spectacle in which the participants ‘clean‘ themselves and their audience through ecstatic behaviour. Looking at it from this point of
view, one could say that the Egetmann parade continues its 2,000
years of tradition. Origins, backgrounds, roots, historic data, proof
of various events, as well as scientific explanations are left behind.
Original fears are exorcised through bears, dragons, witches, demons …
Nothing to do with the parade is truly ‘clean’ or beautiful. It is
futile to cover up the wild nature of this event. In the meantime,
every visitor and onlooker knows what’s coming: that he or she
will be drawn in with full body and soul, right down to their last
bit of resistance. Really, no-one can escape!
Leaving women aside (who are traditionally not allowed to participate), as well as children and old folk plus a handful of compulsive
misery-guts, you could say that probably about half of the village
population actively takes part in the event. After two years, however at least after Epiphany, the so-called ‘carnival fever‘ is about
to break out again, which leaves every genuine Tramin citizen in
the blessed state of ‘being besides themselves’.
CUSTOMS & MORE
‘Schnappvieher’ or ‘Wudelen’ are often more than three metres high
Heart-Jesus-Fire
This old custom derives from a promise
made against Napoleon at the time of Andreas
Hofer and the last liberation battles in 1796.
If the enemy was conquered, they would promise
eternal faithfulness to the Holy Heart of Jesus.
Every year, the population keeps this promise,
which is visible all around from the fi res lit on
the Heart of Jesus Sunday.
Törggelen
An old South Tyrolean autumn custom.
Enjoy a comfortable walk through vineyards
and colourful forests to a farming pub, where
you can taste the new wine, some good square
meals and sweet doughnuts. Of course, there
are also roasted chestnuts.
Martini Market in Girlan
On 11th November, the Martini market takes
place in Girlan. It is the biggest of its kind and
a real holiday for the Girlan population – a day
off work really. It is said that those who don’t buy
anything at the market will not get through the
winter well. It’s also an opportunity to taste the
new wine of course.
Egetmann parade
Since 1591, on carnival Tuesday during all uneven
years, this parade has been held in the lanes and
streets of Tramin, literally in any type of weather.
The main figure is the Egetmann Hansl (John), a
wealthy fi ne man, who has intentions to marry …
Note the following dates:
Egetmann childrens‘ parade on 16th February 2010
Egetmann parade on 8th March 2011
www.egetmann.com
BOOK
The Wedding of John Egetmann
Werner Menapace
Born and bred in Tramin, but always
open to dive into other countries far away
from his homeland. A translator, hobby
author, musician and Alpinist who enjoys
taking part in the Tramin parade.
The book to the parade. A picture book with
historic words, real highlights and more than 500
photos of various times and years. The oldest
picture is from 1909. The book is available at
Foto Geier in Tramin for € 28.00.
MAGAZINE 2010
45
TEXT GABRIELE CREPAZ
The never-ending
ball of wool
In the footsteps of legends
The legendary Neuhaus Fortress near Terlan
is also called ‘Maultasch‘
South Tyrol is a land full of legends. Great stories about
the past are literally part of the landscape. Some legendary paths line up stories like fantasy summersaults,
in every season.
A little boy opens the top of the chest and reaches out for the
gold coins. The girls are a bit hesitant. On a piece of wood it reads:
‘Don’t you dare take the gold or you will suffer‘. Elias puts the gold
coins back and by accident touches a wooden head on the chest.
’Never touch the skull. It brings back luck‘, we read further. Elias
bites his lip. The kids run away.
WITCHES AND BEAR CONQUERORS
We walk along the Truden Legend path, which runs along the socalled Forchwaldegg and through a forest. Children and teachers
of the Truden Elementary School have created this path. In the
legendary world of the village in the South Tyrolean Lowlands just
above Auer, they have heard some terrible stories, freshly told and
illustrated with natural materials. In ten stations, the legends about
witches, hermits, a bear conqueror and the terrible ‘Pinaidkotz‘ are
told in many small, lovingly illustrated ways. On wooden boards,
the individual legends (written in German and Italian) invite you to
relax and read them. The 45 minutes pass in no time and you have
learnt how the Truden farmers feared everything unexplainable
and banished to the kingdom of magic.
‘Mum, there is another story!‘ The children run in our direction.
It is a little bit like the famous Easter Egg run. Exciting, short-lived
and interesting. In one place, a colourfully painted stone face
looks out of a bush, while in another, the hand of a witch reaches
into the air.
The wild Kalchwalder, Aberstückl/Sarntal Valley
MAGAZINE 2010
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The Pfeifer Huisele, Aberstückl/Sarntal Valley
Walkers encounter legends and myths with every step. In the
land with its mountains, forests and valleys, undiscovered for
many years, nature has had the last say. When it cried out, life
was unbearable; those who stood up against it were either declared heroes or were punished. Before science started to explain our world to us, everyday life was determined by secret
powers, by demons, who would spoil the milk, or wild men who
challenged the gods. Hundreds of legends have been told by
people. During long winter evenings, the same stories are repeated again and again.
Modern life, which finally found its way to South Tyrol, pushed
out the legends and declared them horror stories of the Middle
Ages. But today the treasure which only existed in the heads of
old people, has suddenly been brought back to life. Globalisation has tickled an interest in old stories once again. Fantasy is
allowed to do summersaults and show us lookout points – some
stone formations which offer up mysteries from the past.
THE GOLDEN SKITTLE GAME
For centuries, the castle ruins of ‘Maultasch‘ have stood on a
steep rock above the Etschtal Valley, near Bozen. A golden skittle game is supposed to be buried somewhere in the ground. It
is guarded by a little lady, who waits to be released. The story
sounds great. There is also a princess involved somehow in the
story. She is called Margarethe Maultasch, who was a former
Countess of Tyrol, who lived in this castle. The children don’t
believe the story. ‘Did Margarethe ride up to the castle on her
horse?‘ The path gets steeper and steeper. ‘Well, and you say
that a servant has stolen the golden skittle game from the countess and buried it inside the castle?’ ‘Why did he bury it?‘ As
they speak, the little feet walk up the mountain another bit. ‘He
wanted to wait until one day he would go down into the village
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MAGAZINE 2010
Witch figure at the Truden legendary path
again and there he would sell the treasure.’ And what happened
then? One story after the other introduces some landscape to us.
It feels like we have become part of the country and its people.
Some facts are repeated in other stories and the only difference
is the time and place. The golden skittle game … or the good
women, who bless the farmers. Most of the time, the legends
do not reflect any true part of history. Does this mean, there isn’t
really a golden treasure in Maultasch?
2,000 legends are known today in South Tyrol and some of
them were transformed into popular hiking paths such as the
Legend Hiking Paths. In the South of South Tyrol, many years
ago, a legend hiking path was created on the Salten high plateau
just above the Etschtal Valley between Meran and Bozen. In the
Sarntal Valley, which turns after Bozen, students have designed a
legend path near Aberstückl and transformed it into a quiz. During this year, two legend paths in Altrei and Truden have been
newly designed. In all these places, it was the students and their
teachers who researched, drew and crafted things until the work
was finished. Today, these paths, which are often used by people with rucksacks and binoculars, open a panoramic view over
our South Tyrolean world and show how shepherds guided their
flock in far-away areas and how the wives of farmers looked in
doubt onto the huge buttercup in their neighbour’s garden as if
there was some secret connected to it.
THE NEVER-ENDING BALL OF WOOL
A change of scenery. Sunday morning on the Salten mountain.
We left the little ascent behind us. The legendary path runs
along the large meadows. The larch trees are moving in the
wind. Some sheds lay still in the distance. We have arrived at
the legend of the never-ending ball of wool. A young woman
FAMILY & MORE
Legends on the Salten mountain
The legend paths on the Salten mountain leads
you straight to Gasthof Edelweiß above Jenesien in
the direction of Langfenn. Walking time: 3 hours.
www.jenesien.net
Legend paths Aberstückl
The legend paths in Aberstückl in the Sarntal
Valley leads you from the Wippingerhof to the
Durr-Alm. Questions for the legend quiz are
available at the Wippingerhof and in the Tourist
Board office. Walking time: 45 minutes.
www.sarntal.com
Legend paths in Altrei and Truden
Walking time: 45 minutes each. Information about
at the Trudner Horn Nature Park house in Truden.
Family Hotels Ritten
They guarantee a varied and interesting family
holiday. Week by week, visits are organized to
farms, for trial riding, climbing and children
meetings. During the theme weeks, all the focus
is concentrated on a particular theme. Who would
like to be a Red Indian, a knight or a witch?
www.familyhotels-ritten.com
The legendary world at the Salten tells us many stories
At Castelfeder
presented the farmer’s wife with a ball of wool to thank her for
something she had done for her. ‘But never ask for the end of the
ball’, the young woman says to the wife. The wife does as she is
told and the ball of wool runs and runs and never ends … until
one day, a daft sewer asks for the end. My six year old daughter,
who likes to knit, is impressed. Her little sister looks around and
says: ‘Over there! The farmer’s wife is just hanging up her washing.‘ Indeed, only a little stroll away, in front of one of the huts,
there is some movement. Legend or reality?
Between crooked oak trees and macchia-like
bushes, you can feel a special enchantment: the
‘Kuchelen‘ are ruins of about 500 meters in length
– a Byzantine circular wall. On the hill top, you
can fi nd the remains of the former Barbara chapel.
Another mystic place is the fertility slide – an
angled smooth rock where women who wanting
to become pregnant should slide down.
SPOTLIGHT
Gabriele Crepaz
Cultural delegate of the South Tryolean
Marketing Association. Studied journalism
in Munich and did journalistic work for
printing, TV, radio. Chief editor of the
weekly magazine ‘ff’. Previously, she was
hiding away in museums and theatres;
nowadays, she discovers South Tyrolean
cultural history – in the mountains and
valleys with her family. Lives in Bozen.
On the Ritten theme path, an exciting
circular hiking trip, you can get to know the
Ritten mountain and its characteristics. On
altogether nine panels, the Ritten phenomena
such as the Ritten railway, the imperator’s route,
the earth pyramids, churches and glaciers are
explained in detail. The 2 ½ hour hiking trip
is suitable for all the family.
MAGAZINE 2010
49
TEXT FLORA BRUGGER
Hiking and
Tyrolean food
The kids had intended to go to the swimming pool. The sky was clear and it looked as if
we would have a wonderful summer’s day ahead of us. ‘Just right for a hike’, said Dad at
the breakfast table as he put lots of butter on his bread. ‘Do we have some more? This
tastes absolutely fabulous – also with speck and cheese‘, he grins and looks at the last bit
of bread in front of him. He knew that you must have something to eat in your rucksack
when you hike up a mountain.
The Sarntal Valley Alps with their 140 panoramic
peaks are a true hiking paradise
Luis and Martha Huber are keen mountain walkers. They have
done lots of beautiful trips in the past. Martha knows the surrounding area like the back of her hand. Still, every hiking day in
the Sarntal Alps is like a new adventure. Since the kids are a bit
older, the whole family participates in these hiking trips – sometimes they are outdoors all day. Of course, they always stop in one
of the Alpine huts or restaurants; there are 45 throughout the
Sarntal Valley.
‘Where are we going?‘ asks Felix, the younger of the two kids,
who is always very keen on a hike, whereas they need a bit longer
to convince his sister Petra about the idea. ‘We’ll go up the Kreuzjoch. We haven’t been there for a while‘, says Dad Luis and waits
for some reaction from his family. ‘This means walking for quite a
few hours’, says Petra – agreeable at least. ‘Do we take the hiking
bus up to Öttenbach‘, asks Felix? ‘The bus which usually picks us
up from the ski hut?’ The Sarntal Hiking bus is great for extended
circular trips without having to return to the base point where you
started.
WITH THE HIKING BUS TO THE BASE POINT
Dad takes the brochure from the side board. It lists more than 30
suggestions for trips. ‘Today is Saturday‘, he says, while he studies
the time table. ‘The next bus leaves in 20 minutes. Quickly, get
your rucksacks!‘. Felix is ready to go. Mum distributes the sandwiches. Of course, Dad got some of his favourite bread – with
speck and cheese. The hiking bus leaves from the bus station in
Sarnthein. During the drive up the mountain road, Petra studies
the hiking bus brochure and has already found a suitable route.
‘We’ll do trip no. 10 today. Three hours and 50 minutes walking
time‘, she shouts out in an extremely good mood. Taking the bus
has already saved them the first long initial ascent. The bus stops
INFO & MORE
In an Alpine hut, everything tastes better
South Tyrolean quality products
South Tyrol stands for quality are it in tourism
or its foodstuffs. Our bread, our wine and our milk
– are all produced with centuries of experience.
Nonetheless, we are not closed to modern technology. The ingredients and means of production are
the same as our fathers used many years ago.
South Tyrolean products must fulfi l a certain
criteria, which are much higher and more specific
than normal legal standards. Recipes, selling
points and criteria are listed under
www.suedtirol.info/produkte
Farming museum
The Rohrerhaus in Sarnthein is a museum,
which was built from an old farmhouse with a
smoky kitchen and bread oven. Years ago, the
house was one of the largest farmhouses in the
Sarntal Valley. The large rooms bear witness to
the importance of the farm. It is said that at times,
the farmhouse employed more than 20 maids
and workers on the farm.
www.rohrerhaus.it
Art and crafts from the Sarntal
Just like the traditional costumes and customs,
the old craft skills of the Sarntal are still kept alive
today. Professions, which are almost extinct such
as the quill embroidering, basket making, hand
weaving, pipe carving etc. are still in existence
here. The people of the Sarntal are very famous
for their wood-working skills. The ‘Sarner Jangger’ (jackets) and the Sarn ‘Toppar’ (slippers) are
not only much sought-after in the Sarntal. More
about the skills of the valley on
www.sarner-gschick.com
SPOTLIGHT
The Sarntal dwarf pine, locally called ‘mountain
blessing’, is one of the oldest medical plants used
in the valley. Even the Celts used its healing
powers. Today, the precious oils are obtained
according to old recipes, whereby for every
1 kg of pure oil, 250 kg of pine needles are
required. Nature and Wellness on
www.trehs.com
MAGAZINE 2010
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Picturesque mountain lake – Lake Durnholzer See (1,540 metres)
at the Obermarcher farmhouse. From there, they go by foot,
walking comfortably up the forest road to the Öttenbacher Alm.
The other passengers take the short route towards the Sarn ski
hut, passing the ‘Heiratsbrünnl’, a spring which can be found
just below the Kuhseit Alm. An old wives tale states that if you
drink the water you will find yourself getting married in church
before the year is out. Luis and Martha took a drink from this
spring once. However, it took them years to get married after
that. Now, all the family walks up the mountain. The kids determine the speed. ‘Not so quickly!, shouts mum. ‘No need to run!‘
From where they are now, they can see the Sarn Scharte. The
temperature is somewhat lower today – a sure sign that Autumn
is near. Within a short time, they can see the hut. It is a beautiful
hut with old stone walls and a wooden structure. Time for the
first break. Petra and Felix find a free table in front of the hut and
sit down. In a short time, all tables will be occupied and the terrace and the hut itself will be filled with people. They can smell
the fragrance of the roast. The Öttenbach Alm is very popular
for its food! A litre of home-made alder berry juice is being ordered together with some water. Shortly after, they start walking
again. A comfortable, newly made path leads up to Meran 2000.
‘This path is very beautiful’, says mum, despite the fact that she
is so much against new roads in the Alps. She believes that new
roads take away from the Alpine flair. Her husband looks at it
from a practical point of view: ‘It needs new roads. Otherwise it
becomes difficult to use and maintain the Alpine pastures’, he
says.
A PANORAMIC VIEW
The family has reached the mountain gap. From here, they have
a fantastic view towards Meran 2000. There are numerous snack
bars. They are only a few hundred metres away from the Meran
Hut and the Kirchsteiger Alm. But the family decides to take their
next break at the bottom of the gap and to eat their sandwiches
there. The longer part of this trip is still ahead of them.
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MAGAZINE 2010
‘Felix, look! The Sarn Scharte! We took the climbing path at some
stage earlier this year’, says dad and looks in an Easterly direction towards the Sarn mountain and its surrounding valley basin. Looking towards Meran 2000, the Ifinger mountain is right
ahead of you. It is also called the Edelweiss mountain. Petra and
Felix have done this route before together with their parents –
right up to the peak!
‘Do we walk on‘, asks mum as she gets her rucksack ready.
They start the ascent towards the Kreuzjöchl. The path from
Meran 2000 towards the Kreuzjöchl is part of the European Long
Distance Hiking Path E5, which runs from Lake Constance to the
Adriatic Sea. The Sarntal walking network is nearly 400 km long.
It is well kept and marked. With its 140 peaks, the Sarntal Alps
form one of the largest closed hiking regions in South Tyrol. Unlimited tours are available for keen hikers: during the summer by
foot or mountain bike and during the winter with skis or snow
shoes.
The sun is hot today. When they reach the peak, the cool breeze
is appreciated by all of them. The large cross at the Kreuzjöchl
can already be seen. Petra and Felix run ahead and sit down on
a wooden bench. Their parents also want to take a break. This
panoramic view must be enjoyed in peace! They can see the Dolomites on one side and the Ortler mountain and the Ötztal Alps
on the other – right up to the Zillertal Alps in the North.
A GREAT END TO A GREAT HIKING DAY
The path runs along the ridge, going up and down. ‘This path
never seems to end’, Felix says. He is hungry. However, it isn’t far
to the hut. The cows are lying on the grass and enjoying the lavish meadows around them. They totally ignore the hikers. As the
family descends to the Auener Summit, they see the ‘Stoanernen
Mandln’ at the opposite mountain peak: hundreds of large and
small towers made of stones rise up into the sky. It is a mystical
place of which it is said that witches used it as their meeting
place. The Auen Summit is place where several paths come to-
HIKING & MORE
Hiking guesthouse’ at Ritten
There are ten hotels on the Ritten mountain,
which have amalgamated in order to meet the
best requirements from hikers. Nomen est omen.
For this reason, the individual accommodation not
only matches the furnishings to the needs of the
demanding hiker, but the list of services provided
reflects the support by the owners, as well as the
beauty of the high plateau in all its facets.
www.wanderwirte-ritten.com
Hiking tours online
More than 16,000 km hiking and mountain
trails have been drawn up digitally. More than
700 route suggestions cover the length, grade
of difficulty, type of path and difference in
altitude. Individual tours can be planned,
saved onto GPS and printed out.
www.trekking.info
With the hiking bus
Knödel - hand-made delicacies
gether: The Putzer Cross, the Mölten Kaser or the Vöran Alm can
be reached from there. The family follows the sign for the Auen
Alm. ‘I’ll have some Kaiserschmarrn‘, says Felix in anticipation.
The hut is situated at the edge of the forest. Music can be heard
in the distance and they can see that all the tables in front of
the hut are already occupied. Everyone joins in the well-known
songs and it is obvious that visitors are enjoying themselves.
‘Willy is great, as always’, says Luis. The Huber family finds a free
table inside the hut and order some knodel, ‘Schöpsernes’ – and
Kaiserschmarrn, of course. They all enjoy their meal. The sound
of the songs and lots of laughter enters the hut and the Huber
family joins the people outdoors until it is time to descend. They
enjoyed the fun. With laughter, they make their way home.
Car-free hiking made easy! You can use the
Tschöggl mountain bus, which runs between
the four villages of Jenesien, Mölten, Vöran and
Hafl ing and which brings you to the relevant lift
facilities …Or you can use the Sarntal Hiking Bus.
With this bus you can comfortably reach the
starting point of many beautiful hiking trips.
Hiking and sightseeing buses are available in
Kaltern and Eppan also during the summer time.
Crocus blossoms at the Salten mountain
The little Spring flowers transform the meadows
at the Tschöggl mountain into a sea of white and
violet blossoms. A hiking trip to the meadows is
an absolute must for nature and hiking lover. Tip:
Crocus Festival at the Möltner Joch takes place
at the end of April.
SPOTLIGHT
Flora Brugger
The journalist Flora Brugger, born in 1957,
lives in the Sarntal Valley. 15 years ago,
she changed from the teaching to writing
guild with main point Day journalism.
On the historic Dürer Path leading from
Neumarkt to Buchholz and across the
Sauchsattel to the earth pyramids of Segonzano,
visitors will fi nd commemoration stones with
the initials of Albrecht Dürer in all places,
the artist once visited.
www.duererweg.it
MAGAZINE 2010
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The joys
of winter
TEXT KATJA KÖLLENSPERGER
Winter in Bolzano and environs is a true paradise for winter sportsmen – whether you ski, do some
snow-shoe trips or go to the Telemark. Everybody will enjoy themselves. However, besides the winter activities,
individual villages offer a number of culinary delights and romantic secret tips.
Christmas atmosphere at the Palais Campofranco
After an exhausting day of skiing or an adventurous snow shoe
hiking trip, there is nothing more beautiful than some hot wine or
a tasty orange punch, to warm your heart and soul. But take care,
because after the second glass, you really should eat something
if you don’t want to end up with a headache. Numerous culinary
delicacies are offered during the Sarntal Valley Alpine Advent,
especially as the Sarntal population love their desserts. Homemade doughnuts, ‘Apfelkiachln‘ and Larch chocolate make your
mouth water. Don’t be disturbed by the sudden noise breaking
the silent atmosphere of the Advent village evening. A group of
‘Zusslmanndln’ and ‘Zusslweibelen‘ run with pans, baskets and
stuffed animals through the village and sound the bells. This
ancient custom comes from the 16th Century and is celebrated
every year in the Sarntal Valley on the first Thursday evening of
the Advent season.
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A REAL FOREST IN THE MIDDLE OF THE TOWN
Hectic running overshadows the colourful Christmas balls, ponies
and hot wine at the Bozen Waltherplatz square. A short walk away
from this Christkindl market, at the Palais Campofranco, you will
find some real Christmas cheer. The stylish inner courtyard of this
historic palace, which was the seat of the Florentine banking family during the 1300s, is decorated with hundreds of fresh fir trees.
In the winter forest, you feel as if you are in a little village. In the
midst of candle-light and advent music, you can enjoy a glass of
hot wine or even a little champagne and forget about the stress
‘outside’.
NOTHING BUT ADRENALIN
Snow is all around. No better place to go but up the mountain.
Pemmern is the ideal starting point for a ski tour. Take a trip via
SNOW & MORE
Reflections in the snow
the Pemmer Stich up to the Saltner Hut and from there to the
Schwarzseespitze. From there, you will enjoy a very unique panoramic view of the Dolomites. If you are still up to it, you can walk
on via the Unterhorn to the 2,270 metres high Ritten Horn. A secret tip: Start this ski tour in the evening. Every Wednesday, you
can dare this nightly adventure as the piste mobiles only start their
work around 11 p.m. During the night, with the moon shining, this
untouched place offers great enjoyment. All adrenalin fans can
have a go on 22nd and 23rd March at the Ritten Horn. They’ll have
the opportunity to participate in a snow kite test event.
BACK TO THE BEGINNING
Flying across the piste: Telemark offers skiers a true experience,
which you won’t forget too quickly. Dressed with traditional knickerbockers and a check shirt, you’ll look like Luis Trenker. Pull up
your heels and push your knees down … and then down the piste
you go. The best thing is to engage a Telemark teacher, who can
explain the original form of skiing to you. After a few hours, you
should be up to scratch and even be able to try some home-distilled larch schnaps at the Sunnolm in the Reinswald skiing region.
After this, elegant Telemark skiing won’t be guaranteed !!
Ski safari
If you love variety you can try a different ski
resort every day, just like the locals do – ‘visiting
the neighbours’ allowed: The Obereggen Val di
Fiemme ski carousel is practically right outside
the door of Bozen, Auer, Neumarkt and Montan,
Truden or Altrei. Also the Seiser Alm, the Gardena
Valley with the renowned Sella Ronda, and the
Schwemmalm in the Ultental Valley are less
than 50 km away!
With sledge and horse
It might be cold, but it certainly is romantic:
a horse-sledge ride through the snowy winter
landscape, particularly during the night when
the torches are lit. Or you can enjoy a horse ride
on fresh powder snow and enjoy the snow-covered
mountains. Hourly rides, or half-day / full-day
rides for inexperienced, as well as experienced
riders. Available in the Sarntal Valley, at the
Salten and Ritten mountain.
Toboggan under the moon
On the full moon week-ends of 29th /30th January
and 26th /27th February, Reinswald/Sarntal Valley
has organised an unforgettable toboggan run:
with music, fun and sledging in the moon light.
The lift facilities can be used between 8 p.m.
and 10 p.m. so that the toboggan run can become
even more exciting.
Feeling well
The right place to be spoilt after a long winter’s
day is in a hot bath with healing oils, in a South
Tyrolean hay bath or with a soft massage or
compress. The highly valuable materials used
come straight from our farmers: juicy apples,
fragrant Alpine hay, honey and the all essential
milk. For further information, click on
www.bolzanosurroundings.info/ArsVivendi
Discover the untouched nature by skies, on a sledge or by foot.
The main thing is that you enjoy it, leaving your daily stress behind. The winter in Bolzano and environs offers numerous possibilities to charge up your batteries and to relax.
Katja Köllensperger
Born in Bozen where she also lives.
Studied publishing and communication
science in Vienna, as well as Spanish. Since
2006, she has been a journalist at the
Lifestyle-Magazine in South Tyrol with
emphasis on fashion, design and architecture.
MAGAZINE 2010
57
Dinos for
collection
TEXT HELMUT LUTHER
The Bletterbach canyon in the South Tyrolean Lowlands offers some insight into a fascinating chapter of the
planet’s history. With a little bit of luck, little fossil hunters might find some not so little trophies.
Bletterbach canyon – since June 2009 a UNESCO heritage site
It all happened this Sunday morning. At the breakfast table, we
told the kids about our idea. ‘Into the mountains? Hiking again?’
When our kids get irritated, they react like a pack of hungry wolves.
As we didn’t explain things in more depth, there was an icy atmosphere in the car as we drove up the winding mountain road in the
direction of the Fleimstal Valley.
Our saviour was already waiting for us at the Geoparc Bletterback Visitors‘ Centre in the form of Christian Giordani, 37 years of
age. The voluntary worker at the Geoparc simply knows every
trick in the book. With his shoulder-high hazelnut stick, he points
in the direction of a table-shaped gray and brown stone. The visitors hear that this is Val Gardena sandstone. If we had not known
this, we would probably have just walked past the stone and totally ignored it. However, Christian Giordani points out some holes
in it, which are approximately five cm deep and as large as man’s
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hand. ‘This is the fossilised footprints of a pachypes dolomiticus‘,
he says. ‘You know – a dinosaur.’
This keyword is enough for our kids to suddenly become highly
motivated. The Blatterbach canyon near Aldein in the South Tyrolean Lowlands is not just any old canyon. It was here, that they
found the fossilised footprints of 20 different types of dinosaurs.
As these are also some of the world’s largest fossil trail findings
of four-legged dinosaurs from the Middle and Upper Perm Age
(about 270 – 250 million years ago), the Bletterbach is a top address even with geologists and palaeontologists. Together with
the nearby Dolomites, the Bletterbach became part of UNESCO in
June 2009 and enchants children with the hope of a major finding. Now, the kids are ready to move. Before we left, mum clever
enough to pack some hammers, a magnifying glass, as well as
some diluted hydrochloric acid. This is the basic equipment need-
INFO & MORE
Fossil fi ndings in the visitors‘ centre
ed by any future geologist. Taking their weapons, our kids follow
Christian down into the canyon.
The next two hours fly in. The treasure hunters look at every
bit of charcoaled conifer. They discover numerous trails of headlegers (cephalopodons) and a huge amount of fossilised mussels.
There are even fossilised rain drops, which are very popular these
days. They date back an incredible 260 million years. While Christian Giordani continuously acts as a walking lexicon, as adults we
can enjoy the scenery in peace and quiet. To the left and right,
stony rocks reach up into the sky. Dark-green fir trees and strangely grown larch trees hold on tight to the rocks. The wind-beaten
stone shimmers in gray, white and red.
Then it is time to go home. The kids stow away their treasures in
Dad’s rucksack, which suddenly weighs nearly ten kilos. No doubt
who is about to carry all of this back to the car! ‘The hiking wasn’t
such a bad idea after all’, says our kids. And they really mean it!
Dolomites: 142,000 hectares
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
The Dolomites are one of the most beautiful
mountainous landscapes in the world. In June
2009, nine Dolomite groups altogether, which are
divided into five Northern Italian provinces, were
added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
In South Tyrol, these are the Sexten Dolomites, the
Fanes-Sennes-Prags, the Geisler Spitzen, the
Schlern massif, the Rosengarten and the Latemar,
as well as the Bletterbach canyon.
www.unesco.org
Alpine Convention
There is an international agreement in place
between the eight ‘Alpine nations‘, about the
comprehensive protection and sustainable
development of the Alpine region. Since 2003,
the headquarters of this Permanent Administration of the Convention has been in Innsbruck, with
a branch office in Bozen at the headquarters of the
Bozen European Academy. Apart from a number of
EU offices, Italian‘s only institution with diplomatic
status (apart from Rome) is now in Bozen.
www.alpenconv.org
Aldein Museums
Besides the Village Museum in Aldein and
the Geological Museum in Radein, there is also
the Mill Ensemble in Thal near Aldein. The
‘Schiaser’ mills with which the children of
Aldein once produced their own ’Schiaser’
(marbles) are truly unique.
www.museum-aldein.com
For kids
’Bletterbach for Kids’ children’s afternoons at
the Geoparc Bletterbach and ’NaturParkKids’ at
the Trudner Horn Nature Park: on the trail of
dinosaurs, stones, plants and animals, there
are lots of secrets to be discovered.
www.bletterbach.info
www.trudnerhorn.com
BOOK
Helmut Luther
Born in 1961 in Meran. After fi nishing his
philosophy and history studies, he worked
for many years at a number of South
Tyrolean grammar schools. He writes for
tourist guides and various magazines
such as the Standard, Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung and the Rheinischer Merkur.
Together with his wife and four kids, he runs
a little wine-growing estate near Meran.
South Tyrol for all seasons
The popular brochure provides readers with
highlights in landscape, specialities for tourists
and sightseeing highlights. It describes the
beautiful landscape along the Dolomites, informs
about different hiking tours nearby.
www.athesiabuch.it
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South Tyrolean Enjoyment Theatre at Lake Kaltern
365 Days
Events and highlights
The most important events throughout the year at
a glance: concerts, music festivals, wine- and village
festivals, traditions and customs as well as important
sports events. Further information at the local tourist
offices and on www.bolzanosurroundings.info
EVENINGS UNDER A BLUE SKY
Extended opening hours on Tuesdays in Auer during July and
August.
Extended opening hours on Wednesdays in St. Michael/Eppan in
July and August, festive atmosphere in the traffic-free centre with
live music, street artists, entertainment, music and gastronomic
specialities.
‘Sarner Virwitzmitte’, a special evening in Sarnthein every Wednesday from 21st July to 18th August
‘s’Traminer Dorfleben’ in Tramin. Every Wednesday from the end of
July to the beginning of September the Tramin people present their
culture, customs and crafts, linked with entertainment and extended
shopping hours.
Summer Holidays in Jenesien. Every Wednesday evening from mid
July to end of August. Concerts with music bands, cabaret and family
evenings.
July Festival at Ritten. Small street festivals with culinary highlights. On
Thursday in July alternating in Klobenstein, Oberbozen and Unterinn.
Extended opening hours on Thursdays during the months of July
and August in the traffic-free town centre of Kaltern.
Extended opening hours on Thursdays in Leifers on 3rd June, 1st July,
5th August and 2nd September
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‘Laubenzauber’ in Neumarkt, every Friday in July & August
Extended opening hours on Saturday in September and October
in Kaltern. Attractive opening hours of the stores, accompanied by a
versatile programme in the centre of Kaltern.
MUSIC & CULTURE
Concert evenings ‘Music & Culture’ in Lengmoos/Ritten,
from May to October
Folk Music Evenings on the Ritten mountain during the months
February, May and November
Eppan Music Nights, 25 concerts between Easter and All Saints’ Days
Organ concerts in St. Pauls/Eppan and other churches
from March to October
Inn celebration in Jenesien - each Friday from June to
August in changing inns
Castle concerts: Castle Rechtenthal in Tramin on 4th June, Castle Auer,
Auer/mid July, Castle Enn near Montan/beginning of August, Castle
Haderburg near Salurn. In Eppan at the castles of Englar, Hocheppan
and Boymont, at the Lanserhaus residence and in Kaltern at the castles of Kampan and Sallegg.
10th Rudy Giovannini’s Köfele Festival in Leifers on 4th-5th June
Festival Leifers from mid of June to beginning of September
Runkelstein Music Festival in Bozen from 17th June to 22nd July
Südtirol Jazzfestival Alto Adige in Bozen from end of June to mid July
Eppan Music Summer from 5th to 11th July at Castle Englar and Lanserhaus residence, with master courses by Brigitte Fassbaender
XONG Festival, satellites event in the Lanserhaus in Eppan in July
Bozen Dance Summer in the second half of July
Around 30 wine-growing estates open their doors on 12th June
Europeade, get-together of European folk dance
groups in Bozen and environs from 21st to 26th July
Kaltern Lake Festival on 27th July, 3rd and 10th August
Bolzano Festival Bozen from July to October
Gustav Mahler Youth Orchestra, concerts in Bozen
International Pianist Competition ‘F. Busoni’ in Bozen, end of
August to the beginning of September
Transart, Festival of Contemporary art from mid of September
to beginning of October
WINE FESTIVALS, VILLAGE FESTIVALS & OTHER EVENTS
Kalterersee wine tasting in Kaltern on 17th March
Eppan Wine Day in April
Wine Hiking Day in Kaltern on 25th April
Crocus Festival in Mölten at the end of April
Asparagus Festival in Terlan a the end of April/beginning May
Bozen Wine tasting from 13th to 16th May
‘Vino in Festa’, South Tyrolean Wine Road weeks
from 13th May to 12th June
South Tyrolean Pinot Noir Days in Montan and Neumarkt
on 20th and 21st May
Archway Festival in Salurn from 21st to 23rd May
Tramin meets Friuli at Castle Rechtenthal on 22nd May
Whitsun Festival in Terlan on 22nd and 23rd May
Whitsun Festival in Unterinn/Ritten on 23rd and 24th May
St. Urbans’s Night in Terlan on 25th May
Wine and pleasure in historic walls in Eppan on 22nd May
Fair Market in Leifers on 30th May
Pasta Festival in Montan, beginning of June
2nd South Tyrol pleasure theatre in Kaltern on 5th June
Parish Day in Seit/Leifers on 10th June
Kastelruther Spatzen Open Air in Kastelruth on 11th and 12th June
The Night of the Senses, gourmet’s kitchen in the gangway in
Sarnthein, end of June
‘All in White’ – Kaltern presents its white wines on 29th June
Parish Day in Jenesien on 2nd July
Parish Day chapel castle Hocheppan on 3rd July
Parish Day in Jenesien from 9th to 11th July
Festivity of the marksmen company of Klobenstein/Ritten
in mid July
Gewürztraminer Wine street in Tramin on 16th July
Magdalene Parish Festival in Pfatten, 16th to 18th July
Parish Day in Pinzon/Montan on 18th July
Magdalene Parish Day near Bozen on 22nd July
Wine Culture Weeks in St. Pauls/Eppan from 22nd July to 3rd August
Festivity of the brass band Lengstein/Ritten on 24th and 25th July
‘Schützen’-Festival in Aldein on 25th July
Parish Day in St. Jakob Kastelaz/Tramin on 25th July
The Festive Table in St. Pauls/Eppan on 27th July
Village Festival in Kaltern end of July, beginning of August
Festivity in Oberbozen/Ritten, Jenesien and Gfrill/Salurn
on 1st August
Neumarkt Portico Festival, beginning of August
‘Knödel’-buffet in Mölten, beginning of August
Festival of the brass band Lengmoos on 7th and 8th August
Horn parish Day on the Ritten Horn on 8th August
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Bozen Christkindl Market
Pasta Festival in Tramin on 7th August
Alpine pasture celebration in Afing/Jenesien on 9th August
Lorenzi Night in Bozen and Andrian on 10th August
Wine Festival in Kaltern from 11th to 14th August
‘Knödel’-Festival in Tramin on 14th August
Parish Day in Mölten on 14th and 15th August
Parish Day in Oberbozen/Ritten and Gschnon/Montan on 15th August
Village Festival in Astfeld on 14th and 15th August
Strudel Festival in Andrian, mid August
Lowland Wine Tasting Days in Auer, mid of August
White Wines & music in Montiggl/Eppan on 20 th August
Parish Day in Reinswald on 21st and 22nd August
Montan Parish Day on 24th August
Parish Day in Durnholz on 29th August
Kaltern Wine Days on 2nd and 3rd September
Village Festival in St. Pauls/Eppan on 4th and 5th September
Sarn Parish Day in Sarnthein from 4th to 6th September
Village Fair in Oberinn/Ritten on 5th September
Vilpian Parish Day on 5th September
Parish Day in Flaas/Jenesien from 10th to 12th September
Parish Day in Pens on 12th September
Parish Day in Schreckbichl/Eppan on 14th September
Kurtatsch Wine Festival, mid September
Parish Day in Bad Sieß/Ritten, mid September
‘Schupfen’ Festival at the Salten mountain/Jenesien on 19th September
Glen Parish Day near Montan, 19th September
Parish Day in Kalditsch near Montan on 26th September
Fair Market in Leifers on 3rd October
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Festivals & concerts
Kastelruther Spatzen Festival in Kastelruth, from 8th to 10th October
Tramin Wine Alleyway in Tramin on 16th October
TRADITION & CUSTOMS
Leifers Carnival Parade on 7th February
Carnival Parade in Terlan on 11th February
Carnival Parade in Auer on 14th February
Egetmann Parade in Tramin on 16th February
Tinzltag (carnival custom) in Aldein on 16th February
Joseph Market in Salurn on 21st March
Markus Market in Auer on 25th April
‘Jörgi’ market in Terlan, end of April
Flower market in Bozen on 30th April and 1st May
Maypole Festival in Terlan and Auer on 1st May
Sacred Heart of Jesus-Procession and village
festival in Aldein in June
Parish Day of the marksmen of Aldein, 25th Juli
Cattle drive on ‘Bartlmä’ at the Ritten Alpine meadows on 24th August
Cattle drive on the Salten, end of August
Cattle drive in Aldein beginning of September
Cattle drive in Altrei, end of September
‘Törggele’ Festival in Unterinn/Ritten, beginning of October
‘Törggele’ Days in Tramin on the fairground, 2nd and 3rd October
‘Törggele’ Festival in St. Michael/Eppan on 3rd October
Folk Music Evening ‘s’herbstelet’ in Tramin on 16th October
Thanksgiving Festival in Girlan/Eppan, 16th October
‘Törggele’ Festival in Eppan/Berg from 23rd to 24th October
Martini Market in Girlan/Eppan on 11th November
Oldtimer Time Travel
Martini Market and Village Festival with goose drive in
Kurtinig on 11th November
Martini Shooting at the historic shooting range in
St. Michael/Eppan in November
Bozen Christmas Market from 26th November to 23rd December
Andreas Market in Salurn on 30th November
Crib Exhibition in St. Pauls/Eppan from 27th November to 6th January
Eppan Winter Forest in St. Michael/Eppan from the end of November
Alpine Advent in Sarnthein and the ‘Ritten Christmas Train’
on 28th-29th November, 5th-8th, 12th-13th and 19th-20th December
Crib Exhibition in Jenesien in Dezember
Santa Clause Market in Kaltern on 6th Dezember
Christmas Market in Kaltern every weekend (Friday till Sunday)
in Advent in Kaltern
Living Christmas in Neumarkt from 8th to 24th December
‘Klöckeln’, custom in the Sarntal on 2nd, 9th and 16th December
SPORTS INFORMATION
Race in speed skating in the ‘Arena Ritten’ in Klobenstein
from November to February
Haflinger horse-sleigh-race Jenesien in the end of January
Europacup – Downhill, Super G and Super Combi in Reinswald
from 1st to 5th February
Lake Kaltern Half-Marathon on 28th March
Cultural Hiking Weeks in Tramin (IVV) from 11th to 16th April
Traditional Folk Cycling in Andrian on 1st May
Int. Triathlon at Lake Kaltern, 15th May
Int. vintage tractor meeting in Tramin on 15th and 16th May
Schwarzenbach Cup, Int. Table Tennis Tournament in Auer
from 21st to 24th May
Südtirol Nostalgy Run from San Lugano to Montan on 22nd May
Meeting of veteran cars in Bozen on 22nd and 23rd May
International Eppan Castle Ride from 22nd to 24th May
Walter Trophy for sports marksmen in Auer, beginning of June
Mendel History in Kaltern and Eppan, from 18th to 20th June
Trans Tirol Mountain Rally in Eppan, beginning of July
International archery tournament in Klobenstein/Ritten in July
Cycling Race Cup Penser Joch in Sarntal Valley on 11th July
‘La Vecia Ferovia dela Val de Fiemme’ mountain bike run with starts
in Auer on 3rd August
Mountain Duathlon in Reinswald/Sarntal on 7th August
Veteran Bike Festival in Leifers on 7th and 8th August
International Futures ATP Tennis Tournament in Rungg/Girlan
from 8th till 15th August
Fit for Business – Company tournament Neumarkt, 3rd September
Car-free Day to the Mendel, Kaltern in mid September
Cycling Race Bozen-Jenesien on 25th September
Fiat 500 meeting in Bozen on 25th September
Salten Half-Marathon on 26th September
South Tyrolean Marathon from Meran to Bozen on 3rd October
Wine-growers Hiking Weeks (IVV) in Tramin, from 10th to 15th October
Night Horse Race in Jenesien, end of December
Ice Gala in Bozen on 29th December
New Year’s Eve Run ‘Boclassic’ in Bozen, 31st December
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CULTURE
GUIDE
Museums & churches
There are over 80 museums all over the region: archaeology and cultural history, natural
history and agriculture. Opening times and information on the individual museums at
www.provinz.bz.it/museenfuehrer, www.landesmuseen.it
MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS
Museums are generally closed on Monday.
Detailed information in the local tourist
offices!
Kaltern/Altenburg are a three-nave basilica from the time of Christianisation (4th
Century). In the porphyry rock behind the
church, there are 10 shell-like hollows from
around 3,000 B.C.
The South Tyrolean Archaeological MuThe apse of the St. Jacob’s chapel on
seum in Bozen is a must for every visitor to
the hill of Kastelaz, just above Tramin, is
South Tyrol, Tel. +39 0471 320 100.
decorated by fighting mythical figures in a
The Nature Museum offers regular scienghostly round dance (around 1,200 A.D.).
tific exhibitions. Main attraction is the sea
The chapel of Castle Hocheppan houses
water aquarium, Tel. +39 0471 412 964.
Roman frescoes, one of them being ’The
New is the Museion, the Museum of
Dumpling Eater’.
modern and contemporary art,
St. Peter’s church near Auer is a Gothic
Tel. +39 0471 223 411.
building from the 15th Century. The Roman
church tower was built during the 12th
Other museums in Bozen: Mercantile
Century. The church houses the oldest
Museum, School Museum and the Crib
playable organ in South Tyrol.
Museum.
The Stephen’s church near Pinzon in
At the MMM Firmian near Bozen Reinhold
Montan with its famous Hans Klocker altar
Messner presents the mountains through
is particularly worth a visit. The keys are
art and recounts mountaineering history.
available on request in the church hall,
Open from the beginning of March to end
Tel. +39 0471 820 781
of November. Tel. +39 0471 631 264
In Leifers, it is possible to visit the
Castle Moos-Schulthaus near Eppan is a
St. Peter’s chapel at the Köfele, which was
museum describing life and culture for the CHURCHES & LITTLE CHAPELS
built during the 13th Century. It has a round
Middle Ages. Regular guided tours. Sun
Bozen: The Old Gries Parish Church accommodates the famous Gothic wing altar apse.
closed. Tel. +39 0471 660 139.
by Michael Pacher. In the Gothic FranThe ‘Klösterle’ hospital near Neumarkt
In the South Tyrolean Wine Museum in
was built in 1220 and extended in 1300. It
Kaltern, they exhibit pieces describing the ciscan Church there is a shrine altar with
is one of the best kept hospitals in Europe.
history of wine. Information & guided tours carved wing doors by Hans Klocker. It is
worth visiting the frescoes from the Giotto It is said, that Dürer stayed here overnight
on Tel. +39 0471 963 168.
School in the Johannes chapel of the Early during his Italian travels.
The Tramin Village Museum exhibits
Gothic Dominican Church. Also see the
The Roman Cemetery church in Mölten
tools from wine and farming agriculture,
Gothic Dome at the square Waltherplatz.
houses a very valuable sculpture: the Pietà,
craftsmanship and normal farmhouses.
The Parish Church in Terlan is a highmade of cast stone (1440).
Sun closed. Tel. +39 328 560 36 45
Gothic building from the 14th Century. The The ‘Kommende Lengmoos’ on the Ritten
The Museum ‘Zeitreise Mensch’ (human
mountain, which was built around 1200
time travel) in ‘Ansitz am Orth’ in Kurtatsch small Roman side tower was built in the
13th Century and the colourfully glazed
A.D., was a place for the emperors to stop
offers some insight into the life of the
tiled roof of the Late-Gothic tower from
on their way to Rome.
Stone Age to Modern Times.
the 16th Century. The frescoes of the ‘Bozen The churches in St. Cyprian/Sarnthein,
Tel. +39 0471 880 267.
School’ are from the 14th Century.
St. Nikolaus/Durnholz and St. Valentin/
In Neumarkt, you can find the Museum
The Gothic Parish Church in St. Pauls/
Gentersberg houses particularly valuable
for Everyday Culture with household
fresco cycles.
appliances from 1815-1950. From Easter to Eppan, the ‘country cathedral’ was built
between 1460 and 1560. Due to the long
All Saints’ Day: open half day. Closed Sat.
building time, it has elements of the RenOpening times & guided tours:
Tel. +39 0471 812 472 or +39 0471 812 550. aissance and Baroque.
The Fossil Museum in Mölten shows min- The ruins of the Basilica St. Peter in
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erals and fossils from South Tyrol. Guided
tours by request at the tourist office.
The museum farmhouse ‘Rohrerhaus‘
in Sarnthein is opened from beginning of
June to end of September. Opening times
and guided tours on Tel. +39 0471 622 786
The Plattner Bienenhof (Platten Bee’s
Farmhouse) in Oberbozen/Ritten, is South
Tyrol’s only apiary museum. Open from
Easter to All Saints’ Day, daily from 10 a.m.
to 6 p.m. Tel. +39 0471 345 350.
The Village Museum in Aldein (May to
October) reflects art and religious culture
of the Baroque and Rococo Times. The Mill
museum is particularly special.
In Radein, there is a Geological Museum
worth visiting.
The Nature Park House in Truden offers
some insight into the cultural landscapes
and the cultural history of the Trudner
Horn Nature Park. Open from April to
November. Tel. +39 0471 869 247.
St. Madgalena/Villnöss with the Geisler Group
Meran spa facility
Places
worth seeing
In Bolzano and environs, you can experience this region
in all its variety: from rural to Alpine, from Mediterranean to urban. Here are a few things that you definitely
should not miss in and around South Tyrol:
The South Tyrolean towns and their landmarks: The Fugger town
of Sterzing with its ‘Zwölfer’ Tower, the artistic Dürer town called
Klausen with the Säben cloisters, the town of Bruneck with Castle
Bruneck, the bishop’s city of Brixen with its Baroque cathedral, the
spa town of Meran with its art nouveau-style spa facilities, as well
as Glurns, the smallest town in South Tyrol with surviving circular
walls. All of these places are worth a visit.
An excursion to the Seiser Alm, the highest high-plateau in Europe, as well as the Dolomites, are not only experiences for mountaineers and adventurers. The ‘pale mountains’ reaching from the
Tree Peaks to the Rosengarten Latemar, are one of the most beautiful mountainous landscapes in the world and have recently been
raised to UNESCO World Natural Heritage status.
Lake Garda, with its characteristic villages and idyllic places, is only
approximately 80 km away. A varied summer programme at the
Arena of Verona, offers all opera fans great entertainment. Venice
and its lagoon are also only a day-trip away.
GARDENS OF TRAUTTMANSDORFF CASTLE
The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle feature over 80 garden
landscapes in a natural amphitheatre, uniquely fusing art and nature: It includes numerous interactive attractions, the Touriseum
(South Tyrol’s Museum of Tourism), flowering highlights, as well as
magnificent views of the South Tyrolean mountain world. Events
programme information is available at
www.trauttmansdorff.it
MERANO THERMAL BATHS
An oasis of physical and spiritual health, rich in tradition in the
famous spa town. Wellness and proven therapies in the midst of
unique architecture.
www.thermemeran.it
TIME TRAVEL IN SOUTH TYROL
Enjoyable tours with Vintage Cars through wonderful vineyards,
romantic villages and impressive mountain pass roads in South
Tyrol and further away. You can find detailed road books to the
greatest day and half-day tours (in German) listed under ’Motorgeflüster’. See
MAGAZINE 2010
65
GETTING
THERE
BY CAR
From Munich in approximately 3.5 hours via the motorway (Rosenheim–Kufstein–Innsbruck–Brenner) until you come to the motorway exit ’Bozen Nord’. Take this exit, drive in the direction of Bozen
and toward the Ritten mountain. From the motorway exit ‘Bozen
Süd’, you must follow the signs in the direction of ’Sarntal’ (Sarntal
Valley) or in the direction of Trento/Trient in order to reach Leifers,
Branzoll and Pfatten. If you want to go to Eppan and Kaltern, you
take the dual carriage way Meran-Bozen for some kilometres in
the direction of Meran and then take the first exit. To reach the
villages Terlan, Mölten and Andrian, take the second exit, and for
Vilpian the third exit. From the motorway exit ‘Neumarkt–Auer–
Tramin‘, turn in a westerly direction (turn right) and you will come
to Kaltern, Tramin, Kurtatsch, Margreid and Kurtinig. In an easterly
direction (turn left), you will come to Neumarkt, Auer, Salurn, Montan, Aldein, Truden-San Lugano and Altrei.
AIRPORT ‘VALERIO CATULLO’, VERONA
Only 120 km from the Neumarkt/Auer exit. Taxis and car hire available. Shuttle connection every 20 minutes to Verona Railway Station (approx. 10 km). Trains run regularly to Bozen and Auer where
you can be picked up by your hotel owner.
www.aeroportoverona.it
AIRPORT INNSBRUCK
www.innsbruck-airport.at
RENT A CAR
Information at the local tourist office.
WEATHER FORECAST
Weather report, forecast, latest pollen count under
www.provinz.bz.it/wetter or Tel. +39 0471 271 177
IMPORTANT NOTICE FOR DRIVERS
In Italy, you must have your headlights switched on at all times. In
addition, you always need safety vests.
C L I M AT E I N S O U T H T Y R O L
BY TRAIN
On the Munich-Innsbruck-Verona line to Bozen, where all trains
stop. Bus station is very near the train station, where buses go to
all villages of Bolzano and environs.
Train time-table under: www.ferroviedellostato.it
Bus time-table for South Tyrol under: www.sii.bz.it
BY FLIGHT
Direct flights to South Tyrol • Airport Bozen Dolomiten
www.abd-airport.it • Tel. +39 0471 255 255
AIRPORT MILAN/BERGAMO
Flights form the UK and Ireland to the airport Orio al Serio (BGY)
with Ryanair. www.orioaeroporto.it
66
MAGAZINE 2010
W I T H M O R E T H A N 3 0 0 S U N N Y DAYS P E R Y E A R
A holiday region in South Tyrol/Südtirol
MAGAZINE 10
ACCOMMODATION
Official list with
prices 2010
PACKAGES
HIKING, FAMILIES, WELLNESS, WINE,
CYCLING, GOLF, CULTURE, RIDING
SYMBOLS
BB
HB
FB
±
◊
‘
¤
m
Y
X
÷
#
p
·
}
|
Ì
ë
y
˝
M
`
∂
π
∑
a
˘
≤
…
u
,
Ü
d
à
K
h
f
i
6
/
å
=
J
3
_
⁄
ß
›
∆
s
:
Õ
«
U
68
Bed and breakfast
Half board
Full board
Open all year, apart from holiday
Open end of March-begin November
Open begin May-end of October
Open in winter
Number of beds
Singles available
Triple available
Suite
Rooms/holiday flat with bath/shower/WC
Room with connecting door
Radio in room/holiday flat
TV in room/holiday flat
Sat-TV in room/holiday flat
TV room
Lounge
Internet access
Meeting room
Direct dial phone in room/holiday flat
Safe in room/holiday flat
Mini bar in room
Hairdryer in room/holiday flat
Air conditioning in room
Air conditioning in restaurant
Lift
All rooms/holiday flats with balcony
Some rooms/holiday flats with balcony
Car park or covered car park
Garage or locked car park
Bar/café/drinks for guests
Snacks
Restaurant
Diet/wholemeal food (on request)
Breakfast buffet
Extended breakfast
Salad buffet
Choice of menu
Outdoor pool
Heated outdoor pool
Indoor pool
Sauna (Finnish)
Steam sauna (Turkish)
Solarium
Hot whirlpool
Massage
Beauty farm
Fitness room
Own tennis court
Volleyball
Table tennis
Bowling/boccia
Riding
Golf hotel/agreement with golf club
Motorbikes welcome
Bikers welcome
Free bikes for guests
MAGAZINE 2010
Symbols explanation
Ä
@
ç
n
D
è
“
á
^
£
l
≥
∏
T
É
Ñ
)
Ÿ
Ø
F
’
<
0
ã
Children welcome
Children’s playground
Terrace
Lawn/garden
Near woods
Near lake
Free entrance to beach or lake
Quite position
Village centre
Near centre
On the outskirts
Animation programme
Coaches welcome
Suitable for handicapped people
Dogs allowed
Dogs not allowed
Credits cards taken
Farm holiday
Farm holiday with animals
Use of kitchen
Winter season
Ski and/or hotel bus
Ski room
Ski/cross-country ski hire in-house
R
]
‚
c
!
&
¡
„
I
H
o
k
$
Special specifications for holiday flats:
3 bedrooms, 1 living room/kitchen
2 bedrooms, 1 living room/kitchen
1 bedroom, 1 living room/kitchen
Living room/kitchen together
Separate kitchen
Kitchenette in living room
Washing available
Crockery available
Washing machine/possibility for washing
Dishwasher
Cleaning to be paid for separately
Barbecue
Fresh bread service
Symbol maps
PRICES: All prices in this catalogue are in Euro, PER PERSON and
DAY. For apartments the price is PER APARTMENT AND DAY. All
taxes are included. For stays of 1-3 nights, Bank/Holiday Weekends, for single room and suites there is a surcharge. The minimum (min) and maximum (max) prices depend on the size and
situation of the room and the furnishings, for apartments the min
and max prices depend on the number of people.
The seasons are listed in the price table.
TIP: This catalogue includes most of the accommodation in
Bolzano and environs but is not a list of all enterprises. This catalogue has carefully produced, but does not lay claims to completeness. (Note: prices were given in July 2009 and can possibly
have changed).
All details without guarantee.
REDUCTION FOR CHILDREN
Prices with a * offer a reduction for children under 12 if they sleep in their parents bedroom.
Prices with mean a price reduction for children sleeping seperately.
CLASSES OF HOTELS AND GUESTHOUSES
Group (categories)
Hotels
Boarding house/Inn
Bed & breakfast hotel
Holiday flats (Residence)
À
ÀÀ
ÀÀÀ
ÀÀÀS
ÀÀÀÀ
ÀÀÀÀS
ÀÀÀÀÀ
À
ÀÀ
ÀÀÀ
ÀÀÀS
ÀÀÀÀ
ÀÀÀÀS
ÀÀÀÀÀ
À
ÀÀ
ÀÀÀ
ÀÀÀS
ÀÀÀÀ
ÀÀÀÀS
ÀÀÀÀÀ
À
ÀÀ
ÀÀÀ
ÀÀÀS
ÀÀÀÀ
ÀÀÀÀS
ÀÀÀÀÀ
Ã
Ã
ÃÃ
ÃÃ
ÃÃÃ
ÃÃÃ
ÃÃÃÃ
ÃÃÃÃ
Ô
Ô
ÔÔ
ÔÔ
ÔÔÔ
ÔÔÔ
ÔÔÔÔ
ÔÔÔÔ
Farm holidays
Holiday flats
Bed & breakfast
Private guest house
Holiday flats
Bed & breakfast
Information & Bookings
CONTACT
Please book directly at your hotel/guesthouse. In the case of difficulty while booking
or if you need further information, please contact the listed tourist offices.
Country code from abroad: 0039...
Tourist Board Bolzano and environs
Pillhofstr. 1,
I-39057 Frangart (BZ)
Tel. +39 0471 633 488
Fax +39 0471 633 367
Bozen
Waltherplatz 8, I-39100 Bozen
Tel. 0471 307 000
Fax 0471 980 128
www.bolzano-bozen.it
Kaltern
Marktplatz 8, I-39052 Kaltern
Tel. 0471 963 169
Fax 0471 963 469
www.kaltern.com
Mölten
Dorfstr. 16, I-39010 Mölten
Tel. 0471 668 282
Fax 0471 667 228
www.moelten.net
Jenesien
Schrann 7, I-39050 Jenesien
Tel. 0471 354 196
Fax 0471 363 745
www.jenesien.net
Tramin
Julius-v.-Payer-Str. 1, I-39040 Tramin
Tel. 0471 860 131
Fax 0471 860 820
www.tramin.com
Sarntal
Europastr. 15a, I-39058 Sarnthein
Tel. 0471 623 091
Fax 0471 622 350
www.sarntal.com
Terlan
Dr.-Weiser-Platz 2, I-39018 Terlan
Tel. 0471 257 165
Fax 0471 257 830
www.terlan.info
Südtiroler Unterland
Kurtatsch Margreid Kurtinig
Hptm.-Schweiggl-Platz 8
I-39040 Kurtatsch
Tel. 0471 880 100
Fax 0471 880 451
www.suedtiroler-unterland.it
Ritten
Dorfstr. 5, I-39054 Klobenstein
Tel. 0471 356 100
Fax 0471 356 799
www.ritten.com
Andrian
Wehrburgstr. 1, I-39010 Andrian
Tel. 0471 510 100
Fax 0471 18 80 329
www.andrian.info
Eppan
Rathausplatz 1, I-39057 Eppan
Tel. 0471 662 206
Fax 0471 663 546
www.eppan.com
Castelfeder
Auer Montan Neumarkt Salurn
Hauptplatz 5, I-39040 Auer
Tel. 0471 810 231
Fax 0471 811 138
www.castelfeder.info
Leifers Branzoll Pfatten
Kennedystr. 75, I-39055 Leifers
Tel. 0471 950 420
Fax 0471 951 226
www.leifers-info.it
Aldein Radein
Dorfplatz 34, I-39040 Aldein
Tel. 0471 886 800
Fax 0471 886 666
www.aldein-radein.it
Trudner Horn
Altrei San Lugano Truden
K.-Pacher-Str. 9, I-39040 Truden
Tel. 0471 869 078
Fax 0471 869 278
www.trudnerhorn.com
MAGAZINE 2010
69
PANORAMA
Map
Everything at a glance with the removable panoramic map of South Tyrol:
with 40 experience and worth seeing tips all for the family, wine & pleasure and
culture in and around the South Tyrolean holiday region Bolzano and environs.
154
MAGAZINE 2010

Magazine 2010 - Südtirols Süden

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