Modern genoa - Cultura in Liguria
Transcription
Modern genoa - Cultura in Liguria
iitineraries between the LeVant and the city center GENOVA MODERNA COP INGLESE_Layout 1 09/02/15 16:39 Pagina 1 Modern Genoa Modern Genoa itineraries between the LeVant and the citycenter Modern Genoa itineraries between the LeVant and the citycenter GENOVA MODERNA ACCESSIT INGLESE 12-09_Layout 1 09/02/15 16:45 Pagina 2 Modern genoa ITINERARIES BETwEEN ThE LEVANT AND ThE CITy CENTER Claudio Burlando Presidente Angelo Berlangieri Assessore alla Cultura Luca Fontana Direttore Generale Maria Franca Floris Dirigente Fondazione regionale per la Cultura e lo Spettacolo Maria Teresa Orengo, Amministratore Unico Stefano Scarpa, Direttore Donatella Buongirolami, Responsabile progetti Progetto strategico Accessit Coordinamento generale Maria Teresa Orengo Comune di Genova Volume a cura di Matteo Fochessati e Gianni Franzone Fotografie Luigino Visconti, Genova: pp. 7, 14, 16-18, 19 (in alto), 21-22, 24-25, 27 (in alto), 28-29, 3144, 46-47, 50-51, 54-55, 57, 58-60, 62-64, 65 (in basso), 66-67, 73 (in basso), 76-79, 83 (in alto); Casa d’Aste Cambi, Genova: pp. 69, 72; Giuseppe Fornari, Genova: p. 10 (in alto); Mario Parodi, Genova: pp. 12-13, 20, 83 (in basso); Stazioni Marittime SpA, Genova: pp. 81 (in alto), 82, 83 (in alto). I curatori del volume desiderano ringraziare i direttori e i curatori dei musei civici che hanno concesso la pubblicazione delle opere conservate nelle loro collezioni: Pierangelo Campodonico, Maria Camilla De Palma, Maria Flora Giubilei, Elisabetta Papone, Loredana Pessa, Raffaella Ponte. Si ringraziano inoltre: Famiglia Cambi, Emmina de Negri, Giuseppe Fornari, Linda Gianbirtone, Enrico Pinna, Gianluca Terragna, Andrea Verdiani. Un sincero ringraziamento a Donatella Buongirolami, Marco Ciarlo, Mauro Darchi, Simona Martini, Maria Teresa Orengo e Stefano Scarpa. Realizzazione editoriale Sagep Editori Srl - Genova (www.sagep.it) PreSenTaZIone Inserito nel programma comunitario Italia Francia Marittimo, un progetto strategico come ACCESSIT, volto a favorire l’accessibilità del patrimonio artistico-culturale, non poteva non prendere in considerazione le emergenze architettoniche e monumentali della Genova moderna, cioè del periodo compreso tra la metà dell’Ottocento e i giorni nostri, in cui la città ha subito molti e significativi cambiamenti che si sono inevitabilmente riflessi sulla sua immagine urbana e i cui segni o segnali si impongono a chi la vive o la visita. Genova moderna. Percorsi tra il levante e il centro città è stata concepita come una guida comoda e maneggevole che il cittadino e il turista possono portarsi dietro e consultare in ogni momento. Il titolo stesso chiarisce che non vuole essere una guida completa, ma limitata a certe aree urbane, alcune delle quali sovente trascurate nelle guide onnicomprensive, mentre, per ovvie ragioni di spazio, tralascia altre aree ugualmente importanti, come, ad esempio, il ponente, epicentro dei grandi episodi di industrializzazione e deindustrializzazione che hanno trasformato la città a partire dalla fine del secondo conflitto mondiale. I curatori hanno deciso di procedere per “episodi”, concentrandosi su brani architettonici e monumentali che hanno segnato Genova non solo dal punto di vista più specificatamente architettonico e artistico, ma anche da quello più genericamente culturale, sociale, ambientale e si potrebbe dire antropologico. È il caso di Nervi, in cui, accanto ai musei, vengono presi in considerazione i parchi storici, episodi straordinari di una cultura del paesaggio oggi spesso messa in discussione. È il caso del castello Mackenzie e dell’architettura dei Coppedè che si configura come una risposta squisitamente autoctona di un determinato ceto sociale nel momento della sua massima ascesa in un originale connubio tra modernità e persistenza della tradizione. O ancora le grandi piazze “pubbliche” otto-novecentesche – De Ferrari, della Vittoria e Dante – in una città il cui centro storico è stato connotato da sempre da piazze private e familiari, simbolo di un’organizzazione socio-economica di stampo oligarchico e consortile. Il risultato è quindi un volume inteso a favorire un’accessibilità “globale” ad alcuni dei brani più significativi della Genova moderna. Maria Teresa Orengo Amministratore Unico Fondazione regionale per la Cultura e lo Spettacolo Genova Itinerari del Patrimonio Identitario Project ACCESSIT InTroducTIon 4 InTroducTIon 5 1. The ParkS and MuSeuMS In nervI 6 Gianni Franzone 2. The MonuMenT To The ThouSand aT QuarTo 14 Gianni Franzone 3. danerI’S caSa LITTorIa and raTIonaLIST archITecTure In Genoa 22 Matteo Fochessati 4. PIaZZa roSSeTTI and The “Foce” 28 Matteo Fochessati 5. The STaGLIeno ceMeTery 36 Matteo Fochessati 6. PIaZZa deLLa vITTorIa and The urban PLannInG oF The bISaGno rIver PLaIn 44 Gianni Franzone 7. PIaZZa danTe 52 Matteo Fochessati 8. PIaZZa de FerrarI: “The PLaZa oF The GenoeSe” 60 Gianni Franzone 9. The caSTeLLo MackenZIe by GIno coPPedè and The SPreadInG oF The ecLecTIcISM In Genoa beTween The 19Th and 20Th cenTury 68 Matteo Fochessati in conceiving this guide on modern architecture in the capital of Liguria there was no ambition to cover the overall artistic and architectural panorama of 20th century Genoa. in fact, the itinerary we analyzed in ten macro files concerns a specific area and excludes, for example, an area which has been critical for the city's recent urban growth, such as the western one. this choice nonetheless allowed us to focus on a vast metropolitan area, defined by profound transformations that took place during the period taken into consideration. these radical changes not only altered the city's features but were also decisive for the social, political, and economical dynamics which accompanied its growth in those times. the inauguration in these areas of important monuments by famous artists, the consistent and innovative construction of public and private buildings, and especially the fundamental urban planning projects initiated during those 5 years were indeed all essential for the city's development and redefinition of its specific role in the national context of that era. this guide therefore invites the reader to discover the recent history of Genoa in stages and gives prominence to some artistic and architectural treasures which are often underestimated or ignored by most, despite their significant international importance. examples are the Monumental cemetery of staglieno and the testimonies of 19th and early 20th century eclectic architecture, of which Mackenzie castle is a famed and prestigious model. Precisely in giving new consideration to our mutual passion for the rediscovery of these artistic and architectural testimonies in our city, we feel the need to remember the teachings of Franco sborgi, who, through his fundamental and groundbreaking studies, traced for us and for many of his students an inspiring research pathway rich with cultural implications. Matteo Fochessati and Gianni Franzone 10. FroM The PorTo anTIco To The MarITIMe STaTIonS 76 Gianni Franzone vISITor InForMaTIon Itineraries of the accessible heritage 84 Itineraries of the accessible heritage The Parks and Museums in Nervi Project ACCESSIT 6 1. The ParkS and MuSeuMS In nervI Gianni Franzone nervi's popularity as a health resort town and vacation destination began growing in the 19th century. although its full potential awaits to be achieved, today nervi's historical parks and villas, museum collec- tions, and charming seafront promenade along a rocky coast attract many tourists. the town's historical parks comprise the grounds of Villa Groppallo, Villa serra saluzzo, and Villa Grimaldi Fassio, which com- Pietro Luxoro, Villa Luxoro sede del Museo Giannettino Luxoro, 1903 Itineraries of the accessible heritage pose a grassy slope extending between the seafront promenade dedicated to anita Garibaldi and the ancient roman road, today called Via capolungo. Other suburban areas of Genoa soon became actual “villa town”, characterized by mansions with sumptuous renaissance and baroque gardens. however, in nervi, the vacation homes con- structed by Genoa's noble families were surrounded by a landscape that remained substantially agrarian throughout the 18th century and was defined by olive groves, vineyards, and citrus orchards. during the first decades of the 19th century the situation changed with the creation of landscape parks; magnificent examples of the romantic english-style garden so Museo Giannettino Luxoro, sala da pranzo Itineraries of the accessible heritage 7 The Parks and Museums in Nervi Project ACCESSIT 8 popularth in the environs of Genoa. the18 century agostino Lomellini gardens, which once existed in Pegli, were the very first example of this kind of garden in italy. around 1818, Gerolamo serra purchased the mansion with gardens and began developing a park. in Villa Grimaldi Fassio, sede delle Raccolte Frugone 1825, Gaetano Groppallo did the same with an inherited property neighboring with serra's. the two parks thus became a major attraction from a landscape standpoint and well-known throughout the 9 Giovanni boldini, Miss Bell, 1901, raccolte Frugone, Genova country. the carefully-planned shaping of the land; the beauty of the views; the richness of the vegetation, featuring both Mediterranean plants (maritime pines, cypresses, olive trees, holm oaks, laurels, carob trees, lentisks, and strawberry trees) and exotic and tropical plants (various kinds of palm trees, araucarias, sago palms, agaves, eucalyptus trees, pepper trees, camphor trees, cedars, and magnolias); the monumental trees planted in the center of the lawns, as if they were unique pieces in an art collection; and the combination of diverse species to produce a chromatic effect are only a few of the parks' important characteristics. Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage Project ACCESSIT 10 Uno scorcio del parco di villa Gropallo lection of clocks, with a series of “night clocks” dating from the mid17th century, and one of nativity figurines. after the city purchased Villa Grimaldi Fassio, in 1993 it was open to the public as the gallery which housed the Frugone collection. these comprised paintings, sculptures, and drawings from between the second half of the 19th century and the first thirty years of the 20th century. this collection was bequeathed by Lazzaro Giovanni battista and Luigi Frugone, entrepreneurs and patrons, to the city. after being closed for over ten The Parks and Museums in Nervi 11 Plinio nomellini, Nuova gente, 1909, Galleria d’arte Moderna, Genova Villa Saluzzo Serra, sede della Galleria d’Arte Moderna the two properties were bought by the city of Genoa in 1927 – the year following the constitution of the Greater Genoa (i.e. the administrative unification of the municipalities surrounding the city center) – with a millionaire investment which aimed at creating a prestigious art center in an attractive environmental setting, according to a specific project developed by Orlando Grosso, director of the civico Ufficio belle arti. in fact, with such acquisitions the city was able to establish the Galleria d’arte Moderna inside Villa serra in december 1928 and, at the same time, safeguard an exceptional piece of landscape. Grosso's original project was expanded over the following decades. in 1951, as a result of the donation from the last owner, the Museo Giannettino Luxoro was inaugurated not far from Villa serra. Villa Luxoro was planned by Pietro Luxoro in 1903 and converted into a housemuseum. it houses the family collections which comprise drawings, paintings, furniture, ceramics, silverware, fabrics, and laces – most produced locally between the 17th and 18th century; as well as a col- Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage The Parks and Museums in Nervi Project ACCESSIT 12 years and undergoing restoration, Villa serra was re-inaugurated in november 2004 with an updated exhibition walkthrough. Lastly, in december 2005, the wolfsoniana (permanent home of the collection which once belonged to Mitchell “Micky” wolfson Jr., an american patron who donated it to the city) was established inside the sober school building situated on the nar- row street that separates the parks of Villa serra and Villa Gropallo. thus, nervi became the city's museum center devoted to modern art, showcasing vast and varied attractions (paintings, sculptures, decorative arts, and architecture). all this in addition to its extraordinary naturalistic and environmental heritage, enhanced in 1981 by the inclusion of the famous and recent- Luigi Fontana & c., Milano, Salotto, 1902 circa, wolfsoniana, Genova ly-restored rose gardens situated at the eastern end of the park of Villa Grimaldi Fassio. the idea came from Luigi Viacava, then director of the city's Garden and Forest department, whom the gardens were named after. they feature several hundreds of rose varieties, arranged according to hybridizers. the museums at nervi also tell the story of private collections which later became public. the collection of Prince Odone of savoy, son of King Victor emanuel ii, represents 13 ernesto (Michahelles) thayaht, Il grande nocchiere, 1939, wolfsoniana, Genova the founding nucleus of the Galleria d’arte Moderna, as well as that of other city museums. Other private collections that became public were those of the Luxoro family; of the Frugone brothers, created in close collaboration with Ferruccio stefani, their merchant from Mantua; and of Micky wolfson. not least worthy of mention are the minor collections, such as those of Filippo ala Ponzone, a nobleman from Milan, and of the spouses demetrio Ferrero and elena rombo. both are currently displayed inside the Galleria d’arte Moderna. this Galleria's artistic heritage also testifies the period in which the city purchased works (primarily during the two decades between the world wars) at the most important art exhibitions held locally, nationally, and abroad. the city of Genoa thus gave proof of being as farsighted as a clever collector. Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage The Monument to the Thousand at Quarto Project ACCESSIT 14 2. The MonuMenT To The ThouSand aT QuarTo 15 Gianni Franzone the decision to build a commemorative monument was made only a few years after the expedition of the thousand, on account of its profound historical meaning and great symbolic value. it was to be erected on the site from where Giuseppe Garibaldi sailed off to sicily, on 5 May, 1860, with his one-thousand volunteers on the steamships Lombardo and Piemonte, offered by a ship-owner from Genoa, raffaele rubattino. since a memorial stone had been placed on the well-known sea rock in Quarto, from which Garibaldi sailed, by the confederazione Operaia Genovese two years after the venture, a nearby area was chosen as the site for the group sculpture. after a first, unsuccessful attempt in 1907, the city of Genoa announced a national competition on 1 december, 1909, for the realization of the monument. the deadline for submitting the models was set for 10 april of the following year and the sum allotted for the work was “Genova Rivista Municipale”, aprile 1938, copertina eugenio baroni, Il Monumento ai Mille, 1915 Itineraries of the accessible heritage 100,000 lira. Of the sixty-three artists who submitted their models, worthy of mention are angiolo del santo, Pietro albino, Giacinto Pasciuti, Luigi Orengo, Francesco ciusa, eugenio Pellini, Lorenzo Massa, demetrio Paernio, Vittorio rossi, Pasquale rizzoli, Luigi brizzolara, and Venceslao borzani. some presented models created jointly with other artists; such as raffaello romanelli and Gino coppedè, Luigi Gichero and amedeo calcaprina, edoardo de albertis and annibale rigotti. when the projects were displayed in the newly-inaugurated Museo di storia naturale very few had doubts as to who would be the winner. the architect Mario Labò wrote that no other model could compete with that of the young and hardly-known eugenio baroni (taranto, 1880 – Genoa, 1935) due to its expressive power and innovativeness. the judging committee was headed by Giulio Monteverde and consisted of important names, such as the Itineraries of the accessible heritage The Monument to the Thousand at Quarto Project ACCESSIT 16 sculptors Leonardo bistolfi, Ludovi- co Pogliaghi, and domenico trentacoste; and the painters Giulio aristide sartorio and tullio salvatore Quinzio, elected commissioner by the contestants. the jury officially announced baroni’s work winner of the competition. second awards went to the joint project by alberto dressler and Giovanni chini; and to ezio ceccarelli, Guido bianconi, and arnaldo Fazzi. baroni’s model drew inspiration from the Garibaldi Hymn, by Luigi Mercantini, from which the famous phrase “the tombs are uncovered and the dead rise from their graves” originates. the sculpture was conceived as a pyramid, whose sharp Itineraries of the accessible heritage tip was replaced by the figure of Garibaldi leading his men, who have fallen and risen, towards their goal. the hero is shown standing, naked, with his hands clenched in fists. this depiction recalls the image of Jean d’aire, one of the five bourgeois from calais – protagonists of the famous event of the hundred years’ war – represented in the famous bronze statue by auguste rodin. in this statue, the great French sculptor offered a new and modern interpretation of Michelangelo’s style. baroni molded his Garibaldi after the figure of bartolomeo Pagano, a longshoreman working in the port of Genoa, who was to become famous for playing the role of the giant Maciste in the film Cabiria, by Gabriele d’annunzio. the vigorous bodies of other young “camalli”, as the longshoremen were locally called , were used as models for Garibaldi’s volunteers, depicted in the act of awaking from their sleep to partake in the venture. to render the large, open wings of Victory, the artist observed carefully the flight of birds. Garibaldi’s neo-Michelangelesque heroic appearance is accompanied by a dynamic and sensual vortex. in the group of rising soldiers there are no corners or edges, but only curves in the swirling, magmatic, and enveloping shapes. however, baroni was able to move beyond the examples set by both rodin and Leonardo bistolfi and offer his personal and original style, thus avoiding the risk of slipping into a renewed classicism or art nuveau decorativism, which was still so popular. the monument at Quarto is a sculpture that does not favor one particular point of view, but can be admired as a whole. the overall rising movement that the viewer perceives is its dominating and defining Petrus theodor tetar van elven, La partenza dei Mille, 1889, istituto Mazziniano-Museo del risorgimento, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage 17 The Monument to the Thousand at Quarto Project ACCESSIT 18 19 Plinio nomellini, Bozzetto del manifesto per l’inaugurazione del Monumento ai Mille, 1915, istituto Mazziniano-Museo del risorgimento, Genova Plinio nomellini, Inaugurazione del Monumento ai Mille, 1915, istituto MazzinianoMuseo del risorgimento, Genova L’inaugurazione del Monumento ai Mille il 5 maggio 1915, centro docsai, Genova characteristic. but the young sculptor also simplified the shapes while dramatizing the images and volumes of the naked bodies in a highly expressive, or “expressionist”, manner. the novelty of baroni’s style was in his declared synthetic vision and in the emotional and expressive turing Garibaldi was made larger. his contract with the city provided that he finish the monument within four years, in other words on 18 May, 1915. although it was originally to be carved from carrara marble, the monument was eventually cast in bronze. it was baroni himself who Itineraries of the accessible heritage tension he was able to render. he would further develop this in his future works. well-aware of these characteristics, the judging committee advised baroni to give prominence to the sculpture and reduce the pyramid. thus the group sculpture fea- suggested this change in May 1914 to the judging committee, which approved. the “terrible bronze sculpture”, as defined by Gabriele d’annunzio, was cast at the Fonderia Pasquali in Pistoia. while baroni hastily worked at completing his work in “a sort of rational Itineraries of the accessible heritage The Monument to the Thousand at Quarto Project ACCESSIT 20 delirium”, to quote a friend and art critic, ettore cozzani, the war broke out. the artist felt the urge to enlist, so the completion of the monument became even more pressing. actually, he immediately realized that his Garibaldi could become the sign for italy’s intervention in the conflict. so much so that he wrote: “i am confi- dent that, with my work, i have given my country the prophecy of the resurrection and the vigilant and sharp memory of suffered martyrdoms”. the inauguration of the monument, originally scheduled on 9 May, 1915, was moved up to the 5. the invitations were designed by Pietro dodero and the poster by Plinio Leonetto cappiello, imprimerie Vercasson, Paris, Le trait-d’union franco-italien Quotidien du soir, 1916 circa, wolfsoniana, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage nomellini. a crowd of italian journalists were present at the event, which became a stage for a passionate speech given by d’annunzio, who had returned from France for the inauguration. More than celebrate baroni’s work, his speech was meant to convince those present that italy’s intervention in the war was imperative. thus the sculptural group created for Quarto, originally commissioned and conceived to symbolically conclude the risorgimento epic after fifty years, became the emblem of interventionist and nationalistic sentiments only a few days before italy entered the Great war. Particolare della lastra d’acciaio contenente i nomi dei 1089 volontari di Garibaldi, 2010 Itineraries of the accessible heritage 21 Project ACCESSIT 22 3. danerI’S caSa LITTorIa and raTIonaLIST archITecTure In Genoa Matteo Fochessati the edifice of the “casa Littoria rionale nicola bonservizi” was designed by Luigi carlo daneri and constructed in sturla between 1936 and 1938. Of the 20th century buildings in Genoa it may be con- sidered the most faithful transposition of the theoretical and operative principles of the Modern Movement. in fact, the basic elements of the rationalist style can be seen in its delicate structure, Luigi c. daneri, Casa rionale Littoria “Nicola Bonservizi”, 1936-1938 Itineraries of the accessible heritage Daneri’s Casa Littoria and Rationalist Architecture in Genoa which serves the purpose of harmonizing the different levels of the surrounding area. specific to this style are the building’s strip-windows, the elliptical shape of the staircase, the lack of symmetry, and the smooth finish of the white plaster. its rigorous layout also confirms daneri’s definite adoption of the modernist style. Luigi carlo daneri trained with coppedè and soon became one of the main exponents of rationalist architecture in Genoa. however, the fact that some of his projects are reminiscent of walter Gropius and Le corbusier (the slender piers that support the structure recall Villa savoye) seems to suggest that his adoption of the modernist style was based more on technical and operative needs rather than on Luigi c. daneri e Luigi Vietti con a. Fineschi, G. Zappa, r. Morozzo della rocca, G.c. nicoli, G. crosa di Vergagni, r. haupt, Abitazione tipica a struttura d’acciaio, V triennale di Milano, 1933, wolfsoniana, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage 23 Project ACCESSIT Daneri’s Casa Littoria and Rationalist Architecture in Genoa 24 theoretic and conceptual sympa- thy. daneri had also designed the church of san Marcellino (1933– 35). this project received positive reviews by contemporary critics on account of the church’s impressive monumental structure, in which the modernist style blended with “novecento” architectural features. in that same period daneri confirmed his conformance to the rationalist style with his plan for Villa Venturini (1931–34). Unfortunately this house was demolished in 1990, showing the city’s poor consideration of its modernist-style buildings. Like the casa Littoria in sturla, it was a sort of manifesto of that innovative architectural language. during this period, daneri shared this inclination with several other colleagues in Genoa, as documented by the Typical House with a Steel Structure, presented at the 5th triennal of Milan in 1933 by a group of architects from Liguria (Fineschi, Zappa, Morozzo della rocca, nicoli, crosa di Vergagni, and renato haupt) headed by daneri himself and Luigi Vietti. although this project was developed by both modernist exponents and more moderate personalities, its distinct rationalist plan was its true defining characteristic. the rationalist style is also clear in The Typical Economic Apartment, designed by Giulio Zappa, who used mass-produced and modular furniture made of linoleum-covered tubolar metal; and in The Apartment for a Family, designed by Vietti, who engaged in a peculiar mediation with organic architecture to achieve his purpose. this planning inclination was testified especially by the shape of some armchairs made of laminated bentwood, designed for the new mar- Itineraries of the accessible heritage 25 itime station of Ponte andrea doria, and inspired by the chairs that alvar aalto displayed in 1936 at the triennal of Milan. the theoretic debate that developed in Genoa on the emerging modernist style also involved two other important architectural projects, realized in the city during the same period. such a debate was engendered by the important publicity given to the topic by attilio Podestà, who was in charge of the column La Specola delle Arti (published between 1932 and 1933 in “il secolo XiX”) and correspondent of “casabella” (1933–43), to which the architect Mario Labò contributed. not far from the daneri’s casa Littoria (on the eastbound road and on the seafront), stands the “istituto Giannina Gaslini” children’s hospital. built between 1931 and 1938 and planned by angelo crippa, it marked the beginning of the consistent application of rationalist principles to construction proj- angelo crippa (con aldo Zuccarelli), Ingresso dell’Ospedale pediatrico “Istituto Giannina Gaslini”, 1931-1938 ects. icrippa’s original eclectic background, vaguely reminiscent of the secession style, is still partially visible in the church, which is entirely decorated with mosaics and wall paintings by Pietro dodero. this hospital complex consists of 17 buildings connected to angelo crippa, Chiesa dell’Ospedale pediatrico “Istituto Giannina Gaslini”, 1931-1938 Itineraries of the accessible heritage Project ACCESSIT 26 each other via galleries. crippa’s project reflected the needs of a rigorous organizational system applied to hospital services. the project was evidently inspired by concepts of efficiency and modernity, as its technological apparatuses were advanced for those times, and ideologically reflected the ethical and behavioral principals of the Fascist regime (the lobby originally housed a statue of Mussolini caressing a child, by Giorgio Giordani). to render the hospital’s logistics perfectly functional, the architectural plan of the complex presented a rational organizational system, with the sin- Daneri’s Casa Littoria and Rationalist Architecture in Genoa gle wards (housed inside separate yet connected buildings) arranged around a central building (the General Medicine and Pediatrics clinic). the concave and convex surfaces of the facade of this building recall the design of the “scuola della Gioventù italiana del Littorio”, by camillo nardi Greco and Lorenzo castello (1937). between 1930 and 1935, the recently and carefully restored stadio del nuoto (swimming center) of albaro, planned by Paride contri, was constructed on the area east of daneri’s casa del Fascio. in 1934, contri had also designed Paride contri, Stadio comunale del nuoto “Piscine d’Albaro”, 1935 circa, centro docsai, Genova 27 Paride contri, Stadio comunale del nuoto “Piscine d’Albaro”, 1930-1935 the Mercato dei Fiori (Flower Market building), which was demolished in 1987, during the construction of the business center of corte Lambruschini. the design of the stadio del nuoto conformed to the models of international rationalism. this is evident in the strip windows of the two symmetrical, semicircular buildings and in the platform roof supported by metal posts that runs between the two buildings. the interiors have preserved the lively mosaic decorations realized by the company ceramica Ligure. especially noteworthy is Il Nuotatore (The Swimmer), designed by Fillia, which bears witness to the Futurist “plastica murale”. this mural is reminiscent of Fillia ceramic mosaic, Le comunicazioni terrestri e marittime (The terrestrial and maritime communications), which he realized for the tower of the Palazzo della Poste, designed by angiolo Mazzoni, in La spezia (1933). Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage Piazza Rossetti and the “Foce” Project ACCESSIT 28 4. PIaZZa roSSeTTI and The “Foce” Matteo Fochessati the urban planning of the “Foce” district (the estuary of the river bisagno) was part of a broader renewal plan of the areas east of the city center, which had begun in the early 20th century with the construction of a new street on the sea, the current corso italia. this street was soon to become a pic- Itineraries of the accessible heritage turesque promenade and a place for leisure on account of the many beach establishments that dotted the coast – one along which upscale residential buildings would be built. in the 1930s, in order to upgrade the entire area, however, the river bisagno had to be covered. the first projects for these works were presented in the early 20th century and determined the construction of a wide street on the sea and the allotment of new constructible zones. this became possible after the confluence of the river was cleared of the Odero shipyards in 1931. the monumental yet modernist image by which the city wished to be defined through this imposing urban renewal plan impacted most of the planning choices regarding office buildings and residential complexes built after the implementation of the city development plan for the area. in particular, the rationalist style characterized the construction of the ristorante san Pietro, designed by Mario Labò and built between 1935 and 1938. support- Corso Italia e Boccadasse Itineraries of the accessible heritage 29 Piazza Rossetti and the “Foce” Project ACCESSIT 30 31 Mario Labò, Ristorante San Pietro, 1935-1938, centro docsai, Genova er during the early 1930s of the Miar (Movimento italiano per l’architettura razionale), this local architect also planned the villa of the famous collector della ragione, built in Quarto in 1940. the building that housed the restaurant was defined by its delicate appearance and by the carefully chosen materials and range of colors. the result was an ideal blend of rationalist features and organic architecture – a style Labò developed under the influence of alvar aalto. images of the restaurant building were published in the major architectural magazines of those times. however, today it is definitely smaller than the original on account of a Luigi Vietti (con Mario braccialini), Case dei pescatori, 1936-1939 Itineraries of the accessible heritage Luigi c. daneri, Piazza Rossetti, 1934-1958 partial demolition carried out during the construction of the elevated expressway (1962–65) and the subsequent and radical transformation of its interiors. such severe modifications were also made to other nearby edifices, one example being the aci office building (headquarters of the regio automobil club d’italia in 1939), designed by camillo nardi Greco and Lorenzo castello. here, the original design of the waiting room, embellished with paintings by teresio beroggio depicting port scenes, was heavily altered after the demolition, in the 1980s, of the annexed service station. even more evident is the transformation of the casa dei pescatori, designed by Luigi Vietti and planned from a technical standpoint by the city engineer Mario braccialini (1936–39). in fact, this residential complex, conceived for the fishermen who lived in the “Foce” district, definitely lost its connection with the sea when the trade fair quarter was built (195863), while the construction of the elevated expressway determined the elimination of the lateral portions. the most challenging project for the residential development of the “Foce” area was however the construction of Piazza rossetti. Luigi carlo daneri was entrusted with the planning of the plaza after the winning project of the competition held in 1933 was set aside. daneri relied on his specific entrepreneurial and architectural skills to develop this complex project, the work for which began in 1934 and finished 1958. in particular, the arrangement of the buildings in the residential zone is the expression of that concept of housing unit inspired by the famous complex in Marseille designed by Le corbusier (1947-52) and which daneri repeated on a smaller scale in the plans of the blocks of flats at the Lido d’albaro (1952–55). this planning scheme characterized many of his projects during the postwar period. in point of fact, daneri worked intensively as coordinator of the planning teams inItineraries of the accessible heritage Piazza Rossetti and the “Foce” Project ACCESSIT 32 volved in two of the most important projects for the “ina-casa” low income housing: the bernabò brea quarter (realized jointly with Giulio Zappa and Luciano Grossi bianchi between 1950 and 1953) and the Porta degli angeli complex (with beverasco, Ginatta, Ferri, Pulitzer, and sibilla, 1954–56). From 1956 antonio Maria Morera, Navigatore, 1938 Itineraries of the accessible heritage to 1968 daneri also supervised, along with eugenio Fuselli, the planning of the Forte Quezzi quarter, commonly called “il biscione”. Going back to the spirit of the “Foce” area during the 1930s, it must be pointed out that – just like the architectural development that had shaped the appearance of the nearby Piazza della Vittoria – the combination of monumentalism and modernity reflected the same principles of the Fascist propaganda, which aimed on one hand at reaffirming the continuity of italy’s illustrious historical past and on the other at glorifying its contemporary national importance. this is the scenario within which we should view the statue of the Navigator, carved by antonio Maria Morera from white carrara marble after the presentation of a plaster model during Mussolini’s visit to Genoa in 1938. installed on the sea front as the focal point of the urban layout of the area, the ma- eugenio Fuselli, Casa del Mutilato, 1937-1938 Itineraries of the accessible heritage 33 Piazza Rossetti and the “Foce” Project ACCESSIT neers Franco sironi, Leo Finzi, and remo Pagani, and the architect Lorenzo Martinoia. the latter was eventually chosen and brought to fruition between 1961 and 1963. the structure of the Palasport was on the cutting-edge for its times in terms of structural model, static plan, and construction methodology, given it was one of the first tensile structures in the world. it is still today a significant and courageous example of the employment of concrete in large structures. Lastly, if on one hand an exhibition pavilion designed by angelo Mangiarotti in 1963 was unfortunately demolished during renovation work carried out in 2001; on the other, one of the most recent architectural novelties on the trade-fair grounds is the Padiglione blu. designed by the French architect Jean nouvel and put into use in October 2008, during the boat show, this pavilion was officially inaugurated in 2009. 34 Franco sironi, Leo Finzi, remo Pagani e Lorenzo Martinoia, Palazzo dello Sport, Fiera di Genova, 1961-1963 jestic monument, with its energetic and masculine appearance, embodied the cult of intrepidness expressed by the Fascist ideology and here condensed in the Latin motto, “Vivere non necesse, navigare necesse est” (“navigating is necessary, living is not”). the rhetoric of another important theme of the Fascist propaganda – the commemoration of victory and sacrifice in war – was instead expressed in the construction of the casa del Mutilato, designed by eugenio Fuselli (1937–38); even though this celebratory dimension is partially tempered by the harsh realism of the monuItineraries of the accessible heritage ment I Mutilati (Wounded soldiers), by eugenio baroni, and by the sober rationalist style of the building, whose striped pattern hints at the vernacular culture. the greatest urban transformation of this area was determined in the postwar period by the construction of the trade fair quarter west of the river bisagno estuary, on artificial land obtained by paving over the coast. the Palazzo dello sport stands out among the buildings of the trade fair. the competition for its design was won by two projects: one entered by daneri and Pier Luigi nervi and one by a group encompassing the engi- Jean nouvel, Padiglione Blu, Fiera di Genova, 2008 Itineraries of the accessible heritage 35 Project ACCESSIT The Staglieno Cemetery 36 5. The STaGLIeno ceMeTery 37 Matteo Fochessati an open-air museum displaying the main sculptural expressions between the 19th and 20th century, the staglieno monumental cemetery – with its remarkable artistic heritage, consisting of over five-thousand funerary monuments – offers visitors a precise and ample overview of the styles that developed in sculpture in that period. the styles range from the classical and romantic purism to the “verismo” of the naturalist movement, from the expressive force of art nouveau and symbolism to the art deco simplifications and monumentalism of the “novecento”, and chronologically ending with examples of the most recent aesthetic expressions of the postwar period. throughout its consistent “urban” growth, this necropolis – a city of the deceased which expanded over time just like the city of the living people – has also mirrored the dominant social and cultural characteristics of each period, filtered by a conception of death which progressively adjusted its peculiar interpretations of such a concept to the artistic movements that developed between the 19th and 20th century. carlo barabino’s original project (1837) was later continued by Giovanni battista resasco within an overall urbanization of the banks of the bisagno river. On the river’s side, a monumental gallery was the boundary of the future cemetery. the works began in 1847 and officially finished in 1851, year in which santo Varni, La Fede, 1868-1875 Gaetano Vittorio Grasso, Monumento funebre a Giuseppe Mazzini, 1874-1877 Cimitero di Staglieno. Una delle gallerie Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage The Staglieno Cemetery Project ACCESSIT 38 the first tombs were constructed. in 1903, the city announced a new competition for the enlargement of the cemetery. One of the participants was Gino coppedè, who designed a monumental and visionary project, which was never accomplished. he was however entrusted with planning the english cemetery in 1904. the staglieno cemetery is worldwide famous on account of the artistic richness of its monumental tombs and of the beauty of its wide Luigi rovelli, Cappella Raggio, 1895 Itineraries of the accessible heritage and varied landscape, which blended a rigorous classical style with the picturesque aspect of the romantic trend. the great renown of the cemetery grew thanks to the fame of the personalities buried there. besides the tombs in the protestant sector of the German photographer alfredo noack, realized in 1896 by Giuseppe navone, and of constance Lloyd (a year after her death, in 1899, and just after his release from prison, her husband Oscar wilde visited the tomb), the cemetery is also home to Giuseppe Mazzini’s funerary monument. constructed in the “boschetto” area, this tomb was designed by Gaetano Vittorio Grasso and is defined by overt Masonic symbols. the pureness of the classical design of the first monuments was determined by the need to conform to the style of resasco’s architectural plan and was embodied by his project for the rubattino rebizzo chapel (1871). however, after 1880, this design was abandoned in favor of greater expressive freedom, which produced a broad and varied range of eclectic models. this trend seems to be exemplarily represented by the raggio chapel by Luigi rovelli (1895), commonly called “the dome of Milan” on account of its Gothicstyle pinnacles and buttressed arches; and by the Puccio chapel, designed by Gino coppedè (1904), characterized by byzantine features Gino coppedè, Cappella Puccio, 1904 Itineraries of the accessible heritage 39 The Staglieno Cemetery Project ACCESSIT of death. the trauma of a passing was in fact celebrated by the continuity of the social values embodied by the deceased and his family. this generally occurred via a precise and detailed showing of the symbols related to the person’s work. this trend reached its expressive acme in that which is commonly considered the symbol of staglieno: the tomb of the hazelnut vendor caterina campodonico (1881) by Lorenzo Orengo. the detailed and realistic representation of the symbols of the client’s profession and their attire – very well exemplified by another work by Orengo, the double tomb of the spouses benjamin whitehead and 40 Julia bentley (1885–87) – broadly confirmed an analytical and descriptive capacity deriving from portrait photography, which determined the definite shift away from the dignified and solemn models of the classical-style commemorative sculptures. however, the popular depictions of family grieving around the death bed of their beloved one (tomb of carlo raggio, by augusto rivalta, 1872) or scenes of spontaneous immediacy (tomb of carlo Pescia, by Orengo, 1897) were replaced, towards the end of the 19th century, with other models interpreting death. with the intensification of the symbolistic and decadent characteristics, this event was and ancient egyptian iconography. From the very beginning the main clients were no longer from the aristocratic class that had ruled the city until then, but the dynamic and ambitious upper-class that had a primary role in Genoa’s economic and cultural rebirth between the 19th and 20th century. although this rising social class was not immediately able to develop its own expressive language and preferred to thus adopt consolidated subjects from the classical or romantic trends, it soon imposed its personal symbolic image inventory of death by employing the iconographic themes of the upperclass realism. after the debut of the neo-classical style – in which the sculptors santo Varni, Gio battista isola, and Giuseppe Gaggini excelled – the emerging “verismo” trends changed the ideological models of the upper class and led to a new constitutive order in the theme Lorenzo Orengo, Tomba dei coniugi Whitehead e Bentley, 1885-1887 augusto rivalta, Tomba Carlo Raggio, 1872 Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage 41 The Staglieno Cemetery Project ACCESSIT 42 no longer experienced and resolved within a collective dimension, but came to be assumed as an act of the individual’s consciousness, therefore free from the confidence that came from belonging to a specific class. the phenomenon of “looking at death”, initially experienced as the radicalization of the realistic approach (tombs of camilla Pignone-avanzini, by Giuseppe benetti, 1867, and Pienovi, by Giovanni battista Villa, 1879), indeed determined a ever greater people’s awareness regarding death and the violent detachment from life. bearing witness to the definite shift away from the positivist certainties that had shaped the 19th century conception of death is the disturbing image of the androgynous angel on the tomb Itineraries of the accessible heritage of Francesco Oneto, by Giulio Monteverde (1882). the spreading of this iconographic theme throughout the world was due to the emigration from Liguria and the consequent exportation of artistic models. the subsequent step, within the art nouveau style, was embodied by the themes of “lovely death” or “young death”: expressed in a more delicate symbolist interpretation in the monuments designed by Leonardo bistolfi (bauer tomb, 1902-1904 and Orsini tomb, 18891907) or expressed in a more direct manner, as in the tomb of Maria Francesca delmas, by Luigi Orengo (1909), for a young bride who perished in an car accident. death was later represented by even more tragic themes, such as Giulio Monteverde, Tomba Francesco Oneto. Particolare, 1882 edoardo de albertis, Tomba Ammirato, 1917 the inconsolable mother depicted on the tomb of berte Grosso bonnin (1921), by eugenio baroni, also author of another grieving funerary monument characterized by the maternity theme (tomb Moltini sciutto, 1922). with the gradual shifting towards the art deco style, this antidecorative trend was however replaced with an increasingly evident synthesis of shapes and volumes. this affected, for example, the original design of the ammirato tomb by edoardo de albertis (1917) and the simplified archaism of the tortelli stele by Guido Micheletti (1933) and of the inga tomb by Luigi Venzano (1933). the “novecento” style monumentalism – enhanced by a specific classical design in the Germani tomb, by Guido Galletti (1939) – was also fundamental for the revival of distinctly-realist depictions. this trend was only partially subdued by the renewal climate during the postwar period in the field of funerary sculpture; which was influenced, in 1942, by the rationalist design of the dagna Monument, by edoardo alfieri. externally, this tomb presents itself as a simple parallelepipe, on both sides by long bas-reliefs. Itineraries of the accessible heritage 43 Project ACCESSIT Piazza della Vittoria and the urban planning of the Bisagno river plain 44 6. PIaZZa deLLa vITTorIa and The urban PLannInG oF The bISaGno rIver PLaIn 45 Gianni Franzone the construction of the plaza was part of a broader Town Plan for the Central Zones (1932) and was the most important architectural project carried out in the city during the Fascist period. the overall project concerned not only the area today occupied by the plaza, subject to military servitude until 1910, but also Piazza Verdi, which had become important after the inauguration of brig- Piazza della Vittoria in costruzione, 1934 circa, centro docsai, Genova nole train station in 1905, and the the river bisagno’s estuary, the covering of which was approved by the city in 1919. the area was strategic within the urban context, in consideration of the expansion of the city towards the bisagno valley and eastwards. in 1923, the city opened two national competitions. One for the urban planning of the bisagno river plain (5 april) and the other for the construction of a triumphal arch dedicated to the heroes of world war i (9 May). both were won by an architect from rome, Marcello Piacentini. however, this immediately triggered heated debates throughout the city. the judging committee for the arch comprised the sculptor Leonardo bistolfi, the art critic Ugo Ojetti, and Mario Labò (responsible for the city Office for Fine arts). they were not able to choose a project and therefore called for a second evaluation of three, to be made by February 1924, deeming they needed to study them more com- prehensively. these projects were Beatissimi Voi, by Marcello Piacentini and the sculptor arturo dazzi; Diana, by the architect from rome alessandro Limongelli and Giovanni Prini from Genoa; and San Giorgio, by the architect from Modena Giuseppe Mazzoni, with the collaboration of edoardo de albertis, Francesco Messina, and Guido Galletti. the committee had to resign on account of a controversy generated by Ojetti’s article published in the “corriere della sera” on 9 February, 1924. the article announced ahead of time the committee’s decision and furthermore contained negative opinions on local entrepreneurs and constructors. a new committee was therefore appointed and Piacentini’s project was chosen. in 18 april, 1925, Piacentini was officially entrusted with the construction of the arch, which was begun in 1927 and finished in 1931. For the final version of the monument, inspired by classical roman archi- Marcello Piacentini (in collaborazione con a. dazzi, e. de albertis e G. Prini), Arco ai Caduti, 1923-1931 Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage Project ACCESSIT 46 tecture, dazzi realized friezes with war scenes for the four upper sides and the eight statues inserted in the two long sides. de albertis and Prini worked on the lavish decorative embellishments. the other eight sculptures on the east and west sides and the crucifix on the altar of the crypt are works of the former. the latter produced the two large, internal lunettes, which he decorated with farming and industrial scenes. Prini also created for the crypt six reliefs, the city emblem, and a st. George. the process leading to the urban planning of the bisagno river plain was far more complex and challenging, also due to the economic and financial interests involved. the local newspaper “corriere Mercantile” took advantage of the controversies that had developed Itineraries of the accessible heritage and in February 1924 published a “counter-competition” with the clear intent to discredit the credibility and authoritativeness of the one opened by the city. the prize established was fifty-thousand lira and the jury comprised a prestigious member, the architect Gaetano Moretti. the contenders were 46 and their projects were displayed inside the teatro carlo Felice. Piacentini also participated, although outside of the competition, with a revised version of the project he had submitted for the city competition. in particular, the new version provided that the residential area be developed around Piazza Francia (the present-day Piazza della Vittoria) instead of Piazza Verdi. the winning project was Michele Fenati’s, the second prize went to Piero Piazza della Vittoria and the urban planning of the Bisagno river plain barbieri and Francesco Ghiara, and the third to amedeo calcaprina. two years later Piacentini further revised his project, which was given the name La Grande Genova. Il Foro littorio, in line with the conception of the ‘extended’ municipality, as ordered by Mussolini in 14 January, 1926. in 1928, the Podestà eugenio broccardi appointed a new committee (encompassing riccardo haupt, Ghino Venturi, and Piero Portaluppi), which was to approve the layout plan of the plaza. this was the next step, after covering the river bisagno (the works were carried out by the Garbarino and sciaccluga company, 1928-30). the committee only drew up a few general guidelines: the construction works were to be limited to Piazza della Vittoria, while Piazza Verdi was to house only gardens. this was in accordance with some aspects of the project Piacentini submitted in 1926. it was decided that the volumetric plan of the plaza consist of three buildings on each of the long sides and a single building at the end (theater or Palazzo Littorio). Furthermore, the buildings were to have a monumental appearance and be clad with noble materials. Lastly, all the buildings were to be connected by an uninterrupted colonnade. Piazza della Vittoria, lato a ponente: Palazzo Società Nafta (P. Fossati con c. Ginatta,1929-1934), Palazzi Jacazio (b. bellati con G. dazzi, 1935-1937) e Palazzo della Cassa di Risparmio (b. bellati, 1938-1939) Itineraries of the accessible heritage 47 Project ACCESSIT 48 beniamino bellati, Palazzo Jacazio, 1935 circa, wolfsoniana, Genova in 1929, the city council approved the project for the construction of the Palazzo nafta, which would house the offices of the homonymous fuel company, on the northwest corner of the plaza. Planned by Paolo Fossati and cristoforo Ginatta and completed in 1934, it was the first building to be constructed. it features elements still inspired by the local palaces in mannerist style (above all Galeazzo aless’s buildings). the subsequent steps that were to lead to beniamino bellati, Raccordo coperto tra palazzo Nafta e palazzo Jacazio, 1935 circa, wolfsoniana, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage Piazza della Vittoria and the urban planning of the Bisagno river plain the final definition of the plaza were the approval of the Urban Plan for the City Center in 1932 (the building at the far end of the plaza was eliminated, while the ones on the long sides were raised from three to four); the adoption two years later on behalf of the city council of the Building and Architectural Norms for the Construction of Piazza della Vittoria; and, lastly, the appointment of Piacentini as consultant for the city building committee (he basically directed the works). the Palazzo dell’istituto nazionale Fascista di Previdenza sociale (the current inPs building), which he planned, was constructed on the north-east corner between 1936 and 1938. austere and sober, it was designed in a classical and monumental style that drew from the grandiosity of roman architecture, which Piacentini had fine-tuned with his project for Piazza della Vittoria, in brescia. the simple yet elegant travertine facing made any decoration redundant (with the exclusion of the winged Victories on the corner, realized by nanni servettaz) and became a model for the other edifices. symmetrically arranged and linked by a deep colonnade, despite they were planned by different architects, the other buildings all share the same monumental appearance, the balance between solids and voids, the prevailing of geometric volumes, and the total lack of decorations. On the west side, the two central buildings were planned by beniamino bellati and Giovanni dazzi and constructed by the Ugo Jacazio company. the cassa di risparmio building was also designed by bellati. On the east side, the two central buildings were constructed by the alfredo Fineschi, sistemazione zona sud di piazza della Vittoria. Genova. Progetto di scalea giardino sull’asse del Monumento ai Caduti, 1935, wolfsoniana, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage 49 Project ACCESSIT 50 Garbarino and sciaccaluga compa- ny, according to plans developed by Piacentini and aldo camposampiero. the last building was planned by Giuseppe tallero for the amleto angiolini company (1939). as for the short sides of the plaza, the north side opens onto Piazza Verdi and brignole station, and the Itineraries of the accessible heritage south side is closed by a verdant slope that rises to the Mura delle capuccine. the original project by the architect alfredo Fineschi was simplified while works were in progress. the central water fall designed to come down from a tall, beaconfountain was eliminated; and the Piazza della Vittoria and the urban planning of the Bisagno river plain lateral arched wings (originally designed to be made of trimmed hedges) were replaced by equivalent volumes in masonry, covered with climbing plants. two buildings stand on the south side of the plaza. at the east end is the severe Palazzo della Questura (Fineschi, 1935-37); and at the west end is the building which houses the Liceo andrea doria, planned during those same years by carlo canella, who drew from Piacentini’s style. Piazza della Vittoria, veduta della scalea Itineraries of the accessible heritage 51 Piazza Dante Project ACCESSIT 52 7. PIaZZa danTe 53 Matteo Fochessati the project to give a monumental appearance to the city center was made implementable immediately after the approval of the plan for “Grande Genova” (1928). it was inspired by the propaganda politics of the Fascist regime and had its highest point in the 1930s, when the plan to renew the area of Piazza dante was approved. the competition for the Town Plan for the Central Areas, announced in February 1930, was won in august 1931 by the Janua group, which consisted of Giulio Zappa and aldo Viale. the latter was an office manager at the city hall and in charge of the town planning procedures, which sparked complaints on behalf of the Griffini, bottoni, and Pucci group from Milan. however, Viale and Zappa drew up their final plan in January 1932. the works on the modern busi- ness center in the heart of Genoa began in 1934 and ended in 1940. they entailed the demolition of the rundown Morcento quarter, which was leveled, and of the Ponticello area, which had been home to the medieval burg of the Lanaioli (wool workers). the work carried out is documented by the drawings commissioned to some local artists (Mazzoni, Pennasilico, bifoli, Verzetti, and Gambetti) by Orlando Grosso, director of the Fine arts city Office. this urban renewal project, sponsored by the Fascist regime with representative purposes, determined major demolition work, which carried on during the post war period and extended to the sea side of the city. consequently, the medieval quarter of Via Madre di dio was razed. the business center centro dei Liguri (1972-1980), which consists of two Il Grattacielo Nord, cartolina, centro docsai, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage Piazza Dante, cartolina, centro docsai, Genova structures – one on the east side, planned by Marco dasso and Giovanni bruzzone and the other, which closed Piazza dante on the sea side, planned by Franco albini and Franca helg – turned out to be an obsolete development project. this was especially proven by the conception of the green areas, which were intended for people to gather in, but eventually have become neglected and separated from the urban fabric. the detailed plan drawn up by Zappa and Viale had lost its original historicist characteristics in favor of a distinct rationalist design. robaldo Morozzo della rocca also contributed to this project (1932). his plan for the construction of four skyscrapers was modified by Marcello Piacentini, who had been appointed consultant for the detailed plan for the area. Piacentini’s changes resulted in the reduction of the number of skyscrapers, from four to two. in this period Piacentini developed his own conformity to the modern rationalist principles and was therefore appointed manager of the entire general urban renewal plan for the area. Furthermore, he benefitted from the recommendation of the mayor, carlo bombrini, to the engineer angelo invernizzi to entrust him with the project for the construction of the Grattacielo sud. client as well as supervisor of the building’s structural plan, invernizzi too, in his work as a planner and constructor, had completely conformed in this period to the functionalist culture. this is clearly shown by the very modern and urban, spiral layout of the parking facility – the first to be constructed in italy – of the building in Via Montevideo, 12 (1926); by the severe appearance of the apartment building of Via nizza, 12 (jointly planned with ettore Fagioli, 1933); and especially by the construction of the villa “il Girasole”, in Marcellise (1935). the rotating mechanism of this house was not only inspired by the futurist and constructivist movement, but also testified a total accord with the machine utopia of Le corbusier; who, in his publicaItineraries of the accessible heritage Piazza Dante Project ACCESSIT 54 tion Vers un’architecture (1923), claimed that a house should be constructed like a “machine à habiter”. due to its planned location, across from the massive structure of the Grattacielo nord, designed by Giuseppe rosso (1935–37), Piacentini used the same modernist, visiona- ry approach as rosso in designing his skycraper. he was influenced by the futurist architectural culture as well as by renzo Picasso’s utopian architectural fascinations. Picasso was then involved in a series of studies which envisioned modifying Genoa’s urban features to match the skyline of new york. Giuseppe rosso, Grattacielo Nord, 1935-1937 Itineraries of the accessible heritage this passionate interest in american skyscrapers was shared by the city government and by the local entrepreneurial class, and spread throughout the architectural field. this is testified by an unfinished project by Luigi carlo daneri for a steel-structure skyscraper to be constructed on Piazza dante and by the concept of the Grattacielo sud, characterized by a stepped structure that tapers towards the summit, recalling one of the most typical american art deco features. still the second tallest in italy (the tallest being the “Pirellone” in Milan), Piacentini’s skyscraper also had advanced technological fea- Marcello Piacentini, angelo invernizzi, Grattacielo Sud, 1935-1937 Itineraries of the accessible heritage 55 Piazza Dante Project ACCESSIT “stile Futurista”, of which rosso was one of the contributors. but rosso also worked with Fillia and Prampolini in 1934 to organize the First national “Plastica Murale” exhibition, held at Palazzo ducale. the Galleria colombo, designed by tomaso badano and Giulio 56 Zappa (1934), was planned as a passageway to connect the two skyscrapers. this gallery was designed as a perspective backdrop enhanced by the chromatic con- trast between the black marble and the white frame of the barrel vault, which supports the three plasters of the upper arches. the tall and slender yet compact structure of Giuseppe crosa di Vergagni, Palazzo Terzano, 1937-1938 Dettaglio architettonico del Grattacielo Sud, 1937, wolfsoniana, Genova tures. its monumental appearance was made more evident by the choice of materials (red clinker and white marble to create a striped pattern) and the facade layout, which features a white, protruding, porticoed portion. the metaphysical and “novecento” character of the squared partitioning of the lower facade was further emphasized by the relief decorations by Guido Galletti, depicting christopher columbus and the balilla on the background of the ancient city gate, Porta soprana. the Grattacielo nord, designed by rosso, is lower (78 m) than Piacentini’s, and for this reason rosso attempted to sue invernizzi in 1939. it is a seven-storey building with a porticoed base and a 14-storey tower. its dynamic, vertical extension and the audacious suspended passageways at the back render its design clearly futurist. the project for the edifice was published in 1935 in the magazine Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage 57 Project ACCESSIT Piazza Dante 58 Palazzo terzano, designed by 59 Giuseppe crosa di Vergagni (1937–38) is part of this connecting space. the design of Palazzo terzano is a blend of the “novecento” and art deco style with the emerging rationalist trends. standing across from each other on the opposite side of the plaza are Palazzo ina, designed by Gino cipriani (1939) and Palazzo Gaslini, designed by aldo Zuccarelli (1938). in the project developed by Morozzo della rocca, these two buildings should have had the same vertical volume as the other two skyscrapers mentioned. the first is defined by the chromatic contrast of the red clinker and white marble frames and by the cubic structures and terraces on different levels. the short tower topped by a wide, white pergola seems to hint at its originally planned height. its curved profile instead harmonizes with that of the building across from it, whose curved lower portion was determined by the adjustment of a street that was to enter an underground gallery to be constructed under the ancient defensive walls. the non-completion of this project too may have contributed to the unresolved appearance of the area, made irregular not so much by the diverse features of the buildings as by the poor connection between the plaza and the streets. this logistic issue has not yet been solved, despite the solutions suggested by a few recent urban plans to rearrange the layout of the area. Gino cipriani, Palazzo INA, 1939 Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage Piazza de Ferrari: “the Plaza of Genoese” Project ACCESSIT 60 8. PIaZZa de FerrarI: “The PLaZa oF GenoeSe” 61 Gianni Franzone the process that led to the current layout of Piazza de Ferrari was long and challenging. it was defined as “a plaza with no peace” precisely on account of the many transformations it underwent, but at the same time as “the plaza of the Genoese”, meaning the representative and symbolic place of the modern city. because this “square that is not a square”, conceived and laid out as a large metropolitan intersection, has always been the site of buildings and events that have made the history of Genoa. in 1875 it was given the name of Marquis raffaele de Ferrari, whose generous donation had made the enlargement of the port possible. the stock-exchange was then transferred to the building on the east side. it is an opulent and somewhat arrogant edifice, inaugurated in 1912, which was meant to mark the city’s ambitious financial and industrial turning point. the plaza also witnessed the parade of German troupes, defeated after signing the act of surrender with the national Liberation committee; and the insurrection of the citizens of Genoa on 30 June, 1960, against the decision to host the congress of the Movimento sociale italiano, an italian neo-fascist and post-fascist political party: the city had received a medal of honor for fighting against the German occupation, hence the protest of its citizens. Furthermore, the demonstrators partaking in the major strikes of the 1970 filed Giuseppe Mazzoni, I festeggiamenti di Genova alla Brigata Salerno di ritorno dalla Francia. La folla in piazza De Ferrari, 1919, the Mitchell wolfson Jr. Private collection, Genoa-Miami in comodato presso wolfsoniana, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage Luigi Garibbo, Il cantiere di demolizione della chiesa e del convento di San Domenico, 1825, centro docsai, Genova through the plaza, as did the funeral procession of the trade-unionist Guido rossa, on 27 January, 1979, emblem of the workers revolt against the terrorist actions of the brigate rosse. the tormented process that pro- duced the current layout of the plaza began in the third decade of the 19thcentury. as a consequence of the congress of Vienna (1815), which had definitely deprived the republic of Genoa of its independence and had annexed it to the Kingdom of carlo barabino, Teatro Carlo Felice. Progetto non definitivo della facciata verso piazza San Domenico, s.d. (1825), centro docsai, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage Piazza de Ferrari: “the Plaza of Genoese” Project ACCESSIT 62 Piedmont and sardinia, the house of savoy commissioned the construction of some public buildings: the city library, the academy of Fine arts, and the opera theater. the site chosen was Piazza san domenico. thus the teatro carlo Felice and the accademia Ligustica were constructed after the demolition of the 13th century convent complex that stood there (only a few works of art from this building have survived and are displayed in the city museums). the two buildings were designed by the architect carlo barabino in a severe and elegant neoclassical style. inaugurated in 1828, the theater was seriously damaged during the bombings of 1942-43 and was torn down at the end of the war, with the exception of the pronaos and the portico on both sides. after a few unsuccessful attempts (in 1949 the first competition for a reconstruction project was opened and in the period 1963-77 the project was entrusted directly to carlo scarpa) and endless controversies, a competitive-tender was announced in 1981 and won by the group encompassing aldo rossi, ignazio Gardella, Fabio reinhart, and angelo sibilla. the building constructed between 1987 and 1991 now presents three Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, veduta del lato nord different volumes: the pronaos (restored along with the original portico designed by barabino), the theater reconstructed according to its original plan, and the tower, which is the true new element of the edifice. it stands out, sturdy and imposing, in the city skyline. the building of the accademia was constructed between 1826 and 1831. it was initially conceived to house barracks, but eventually became the home of the accademia Ligustica di belle arti, established in 1751, and of the berio Library, with a view to turn the plaza into the city’s representative and cultural center. the interior of the building is especially interesting, with the large, octagonal atrium and the 63 augusto rivalta, Monumento a Giuseppe Garibaldi in largo Pertini, 1893 augusto rivalta, Bozzetto per il monumento a Giuseppe Garibaldi, 1893, istituto Mazziniano-Museo del risorgimento, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage Project ACCESSIT Piazza de Ferrari: “the Plaza of Genoese” 64 65 Giuseppe crosa di Vergagni, Progetto per la fontana di piazza De Ferrari, 1934, wolfsoniana, Genova Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, veduta dei lati sud e ovest dario carbone, Palazzo della Borsa Nuova, 1912 complex arrangement of the flights of cantilevered stairs. however, its original grandness has in part been lost on account of later alterations. in particular, the so-called “rotonda” was demolished. this domed hall was visually connected to the grand staircase. Visible from the atrium, through a a large arch, was the bas-relief frieze that ran around the base of the dome. this decoration depicted the Triumph of Marcellus, designed by Giuseppe Gaggini and realized by santo Varni, a young pupil of the former. besides being the home of the prestigious institution, today the building also houses the academy museum. the museum offers a sort of exemplary anthology of the artistic production throughout the region, with paintings dating from the 15th century to contemporary works. the city opened a competition in 1889 for a monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi, won by the sculptor auItineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage Piazza de Ferrari: “the Plaza of Genoese” Project ACCESSIT 66 gusto rivalta. an equestrian statue of the national hero, protagonist of the risorgimento, was thus installed on the plaza in 1893. Garibaldi is depicted in an unswervingly realistic manner. he is calm and preoccupied, a depiction that is far from the celebratory rhetoric. this was one of the four statues that the city, which had claimed for itself the role of the “adoptive hometown of the Leader of the One-thousand”, dedicated to Garibaldi. in 1905 another monument realized by rivalta was installed in Piazza del Monastero, at sampierdarena. in 1908 Luigi Orengo carved from marble the one in Pegli; and on 5 May, 1915, the large group sculpture by eugenio baroni was inaugurated in Quarto. with a project approved in 1897, the construction of Via XX settembre accelerated the completion of the plaza. the enlargement of the plaza Palazzo Ducale, particolare della facciata neoclassica di Simone Cantoni con l’ingresso da piazza Matteotti Itineraries of the accessible heritage to the east and south was decided after the excavation of the hill of sant’andrea (1904) and the construction of the new stock-exchange building (1907-12). this building had been designed in the eclectic style by dario carbone, who involved adolfo coppedè, known for his ability to render scenographic architectural effects. the project continued with the construction of the porticoes along the first stretch of Via dante and the buildings next to the church of santi ambrogio e andrea. the development of the south side called for a new balance between the volumes of the credito italiano building (designed by Giuseppe tallero and finished in 1914) and the bare lateral wall of the church of the Jesuits. cesare Gamba, planner of Via XX settembre, purchased the lot in 1908 and presented the first project for the construction of the building in 1912, which was rejected by the city building committee. the final project was approved in 1924, when the construction work had already been mostly completed and the building purchased by the company navigazione Generale italiana. the building, which still shows an eclectic style, was later purchased by Fondiaria assicurazioni; and in 2003, after undergoing challenging restoration work, it became the head quarters of the regione Liguria. although the fountain was the focal point of the plaza, it was the last structure to be completed. designed by Giuseppe crosa di Vergagni and inaugurated on 24 May, 1936, it was donated by the industrialists Piaggio. it reflects Vergagni’s “novecento-style” trend in those years, but it is also a slightly-belated homage to the “frozen-fountain” theme, one of the most recurring in the iconographic repertoire of the international art deco style. in 2001, in view of the G8 summit, the plaza underwent a final transformation. in order to pedestrianize at least part of it, the German architect and urbanist bernhard winkler designed semicircular steps leading into Palazzo ducale, the ancient seat of the local government and now the city’s cultural venue. winkler also made changes in the design of the fountain. the modifications to make it more scenographic, however, altered the original design, which implied that the basin be cast as a single piece. Itineraries of the accessible heritage 67 Project ACCESSIT The Castello Mackenzie and the spreading of Eclecticism in Genoa between 19th and 20th century 68 9. The caSTeLLo MackenZIe by GIno coPPedè and The SPreadInG oF ecLecTIcISM In Genoa beTween The 19Th and 20Th cenTury 69 Matteo Fochessati the castello Mackenzie is unanimously considered one of the most significant and emblematic examples of the eclectic and historicist culture in italy from the period between the 19th and 20th century. it was the first project developed by Gino coppedè, and an endless source of inspiration for all those he subsequently designed. the castello Mackenzie has always been deemed his Gino coppedè, Castello Mackenzie, 1896-1906 carlo coppedè, Gino Coppedè che mostra il progetto del castello a Evan Mackenzie e il cantiere dell’edificio in costruzione, dipinto murale nello scalone principale, castello Mackenzie, 1909, wolfsoniana, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage masterpiece. the construction of the turreted castle on the hill that overlooks Piazza Manin was commissioned to the young architect by the scottish insurance en- trepreneur evan Mackenzie shortly after they met in Florence. they met at the end of the 19th century at the workshop of the sculptor and antique dealer Itineraries of the accessible heritage Project ACCESSIT 70 Pasquale romanelli; in other words, in the perfect place for the beginning of an artistic partnership between two personalities who shared the passion for the aesthetic and cultural models of an idealized “Florentine style”. the wealthy entrepreneur of anglo-saxon origins cultivated a profound love for medieval and renaissance art, especially tuscan art. in point of fact, his collections show his fascination with all that was Florentine (as demonstrated by his famous collection of dante’s works, donated to the The Castello Mackenzie and the spreading of Eclecticism in Genoa between 19th and 20th century berio Library of Genoa in 1939 by his daughter isa de thierry), but also with the modern interpretations of italy’s illustrious artistic past, such as those developed by ruskin and the Pre-raphaelite painters. Gino coppedè was the son of Mariano coppedè who had founded, in 1875, a workshop specialized in furniture and cabinet making in Florence. ten years later it was given the name “La casa artistica”. Gino soon took the reins of the family business, in which his brothers (carlo, M. Graziani, F.M. Parodi, a. allegro, M.a. crotta, Castello D’Albertis, ora sede del Museo delle culture del mondo, 1886-1892 71 edoardo de albertis, Il viandante e la fonte, castello Mackenzie, 1901 painter; and adolfo, architect) were also involved. their success derived from a style which blended the tuscan craftwork tradition with a personal interpretation of the emerging modernist design trends. the castello Mackenzie is the result of a complex restyling project to modify a 16th century villa. the architect transformed the original structure by constructing towers, crenellated walls, drawbridges, sentry boxes, terraces, courtyards, and artificial grottoes. the project for castello Mackenzie, built between the 19th and 20th century, was developed in a period in which the historicist architectural style had spread throughout italy and especially in Genoa. in fact, another eclectic architectural project had been brought to fruition a few years earlier: castello d’albertis, built between 1886 and 1892 on the summit of Monte Galletto. captain enrico d’albertis had commissioned the project to the engineers Matteo Graziani and Francesco M. ParoItineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage Project ACCESSIT The Castello Mackenzie and the spreading of Eclecticism in Genoa between 19th and 20th century 72 Gino coppedè, Castello Türcke a Boccadasse, 1903 Mackenzie, this masterpiece combined coppedè’s talent for effortlessly blending styles and decorations from the past (when the castle was finished he commented, “it was an enjoyable pastime”) and elements of the emerging art nouveau trends. this is demonstrated by the secessionist-style mosaic on the facade, created by the società Musiva di Venezia; and by the marble bas-relief in one of the rooms, Il Viandante e la Fonte, reminiscent of Leonardo bistolfi’s works, carved by the local sculptor edoardo de albertis in 1901. the decorations of the castle were the fruit of a free interpretation of revival trends – a talent which all the members of the coppedè workshop had in com- Gino coppedè, Castello Mackenzie. Ingresso e scalone principali su via C.Cabella di, the sculptor agostino allegro, and the architect Marco aurelio crotta, who had planned the imposing Palazzo Odero (1899), a residential building situated in Via Odino, defined by a long gallery on the upper façade. the Portuguese architect and painter alfredo de andrade was supervisor of the large planning team that worked on the fairy-tale residence of the eccentric travelItineraries of the accessible heritage er and collector, today home to the Museo delle culture del mondo. de andrade had planned a picturesque medieval village for the Parco del Valentino, for the turin expo in 1884, and was the author of the project for the restoration of Palazzo san Giorgio (1899), which today houses the offices of the city’s Port authority. Going back to the castello Gino coppedè, Palazzo Bogliolo in corso Firenze, 1906 Itineraries of the accessible heritage 73 Project ACCESSIT 74 mon – and also reflected the cultural leanings of the owner. as mentioned, Mackenzie was a keen collector and especially fond of tuscan craftwork, although he was attracted by classical works as well. bearing witness to his tastes are the copies of famous ancient statues inside the castle and in the grottoes, The Castello Mackenzie and the spreading of Eclecticism in Genoa between 19th and 20th century and the numerous archeological finds placed in the courtyards and on the terraces. the castello Mackenzie helped launch coppedè’s future projects, which not only included some important turreted buildings in Genoa – the castello türcke at boccadasse (1903), the castello bruzzo in castelletto (1906–10), and 75 Gino coppedè, Hotel Miramare, 1906-1908 Villa canali-Gaslini in corso italia (1922–24) – but also 15th centurystyle buildings; such as Palazzo bogliolo, in corso Firenze (1906), and Palazzo Zuccarino, in Via Maragliano (1906–07). the facade design and rich sculptural decorations of the former was defined by a blend of historicist and Jugendstil motifs. the latter instead revealed a mannerist imprint, which can also be seen in an exotic monumentalist version in Palazzo Pastorino (1906), built near the Ponte Monumentale, in Via XX settembre. all of coppedè’s works reveal an aptitude for exterior design. this was especially important for his restyling project for the Miramare hotel (1906–08), planned by the swiss architect bringolf. this work marked the beginning of coppedè’s interest in a vision of architecture on an urban scale; which he was able to experiment with when he planned the layout of the pavilions of the Esposizione Internazionale di Marina e Igiene Marinara, held in 1914 in Genoa, on the large open area in front of brignole train station. he later had the opportunity to put his ideas on urban projects into practice when he was entrusted by the “società anonima cooperativa edilizia Moderna” to plan a new quarter in rome, around Piazza Mincio, which was finished in 1927. Gino coppedè, Particolare della facciata di Palazzo Zuccarino in via Maragliano, 19061907 Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage Project ACCESSIT From the Porto Antico to the marittime stations 76 10. FroM The PorTo anTIco To The MarITIMe STaTIonS 77 Gianni Franzone Few areas of the city have undergone such radical transformations over the past decades as the one everyone knows as Porto antico. these changes were set off by three events held in Genoa beginning in the early 1990s: the international columbus exhibition in 1992, to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the discovery of america, the G8 summit in 2001, and the year in which Genoa was one of the european capitals of culture (2004). three political and cultural events (the one in 2001 was also saddened by tragic episodes and unheard-of violence) for which ephemeral projects were developed, but which also left tangible traces in the urban fabric of the historic center and affected the habits of those who frequent it. First and foremost because with the Porto Antico, veduta notturna della Piazza delle Feste Gli ex Magazzini del Cotone dopo il recupero di Renzo Piano (1992) urban renewal plan for the Porto antico, begun in the second half of the 1980s in anticipation of the exhibition dedicated to the illustrious navigator, the historic center regained its natural view over the sea. this had been long hindered by the customs barrier, which had interrupted the connection between the city’s ancient nucleus and one of its fundamental areas: the harbor. thus, the anomaly of a city on the sea lacking access to the sea was also solved. the challenging project developed by the architect renzo Piano, native of Genoa, and his team consisted in the restoration of most of the buildings constructed over the centuries around the original port and that had always housed port-related activities. this project coincided with the conversion and updating of these buildings to suit the city’s new social and economic context at the dawn of the 21st century. the ancient sea-front city gate known as Porta del Molo or Porta siberia, deItineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage Project ACCESSIT From the Porto Antico to the marittime stations Bigo. the latter is an original reinterpretation of a post crane, supported by a circular platform installed in the water and having eight arms. the larger of these arms holds the steel cables of a panoramic elevator, while other two support the innovative covering that extends over Piazza delle Feste. renzo Piano, jointly with Peter chermayeff, also designed the building on the adjacent Ponte spinola that would become the home of Genoa’s spectacular aquarium, the largest in europe and the most popular tourist attraction in the city. the renewed Porto antico now “communicates” with Palazzo san Giorgio and Piazza caricamento. the former housed the banco di san Giorgio and is now property of the consorzio autonomo del Porto. restored in 1992 for the columbus exhibition, its facade was decorated by Lazzaro tavarone between 1606 and 1608 and by Ludovico Pogliaghi in 1912. a monument to ship owner raffaele rubattino (1893), by the sculptor augusto rivalta, stands on the Piazza. 78 renzo Piano, Bigo, 1992 signed by Galeazzo alessi in 1550, was converted in 2001 to house the Museo emanuele Luzzati, devoted to the famous stage designer and illustrator born in Genoa. the Magazzini del cotone, originally a group of warehouses, became venues for congresses, merchandizing and entertainment events, play (such as those organized by the città dei bambini e dei ragazzi), and trade fairs. these former warehouses also house important cultural institutions, such as an international children’s library, the biblioteca edmondo de amicis. the 17th cen- Itineraries of the accessible heritage tury buildings of the ancient freeport (which survived the 1960s demolitions, carried out when the elevated highway was constructed) and the 19th century Palazzo Millo underwent similar conversions, as they are now home to the Museo nazionale dell’antartide and the recent Genoa Museum, which recounts the history of the local football club. characterizing the recovered spaces are renzo Piano’s glass and stainless steel Biosfera (commonly called the “bubble”), added in 2001 to house a botanical tropical garden, and the Palazzo San Giorgio, sede del Consorzio Autonomo del Porto Itineraries of the accessible heritage 79 Project ACCESSIT 80 the renewal of the Porto antico naturally led to the restoration and urban planning of the port area, which extends westward up to the maritime stations (darsena). the projects relevant to the ponti calvi and Morosini were developed by Piero Gambacciani and implied the construction of the hotel nh Marina (formerly Jolly Marina), of residential and office buildings, and of the Marina Porto antico. the cembalo quarter was reconverted to a residential area according to plans developed by Gianluca terragna and claudio cicconetti. the latter designed the From the Porto Antico to the marittime stations final project (1997-1999); and Francesca de Vita, emanuela Patrocchi, roberto rasore, and claudia Pigionati (studio deltaPi associati, 1999) the executive projects. after an international competition opened in 2000 and won by the catalan architect Guillermo Vázquez consuegra, the Galata quarter became home to the new Museo del Mare (2004), and the adjacent scio quarter to the school of economics and business administration (aldo L. rizzo, 1991-1996). enrico d. bona and his firm drew up the definite plans for the restoration of the caffa, Guillermo Vázquez consuegra, Galata Museo del Mare, 2000-2004 81 Ludovico biondi, Stazione Marittima di Ponte dei Mille, 1930 Metelino, and tabarca quarters. situated in Metelino is the casa della Musica, built according to a project developed by emanuela Patrocchi and roberto rasore and begun in 2002. next to the long-abandoned hennebique grain storage bin, the destiny of which the city has not yet decided, stands the low and long Ponte dei Mille maritime station, planned by the technical Office of the consorzio autonomo del Porto. the first project was developed by Ludovico biondi, then redesigned by Federico tornielli and modified by ariberto albertazzi. the ornamental embellishments were designed by the architect alberto terenzio and Giovanni chini, who headed the construction company entrusted with the works. the station was inaugurated in 28 October, 1930. it is defined by an emphatic and redundant eclectic facade, which gives it a precious yet overly-rich appearance. the interiors are just as grandiose, especial- Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage Project ACCESSIT 82 ly the reception areas, such as the customs hall. Just after becoming operational, the berths of Ponte dei Mille proved to be inadequate for the dimensions of the new, large ocean liners. therefore a new maritime station had to be built on the adjacent Ponte andrea doria. this building too was designed by the technical Office of the consorzio autonomo del Porto, and in 1931 the plans were presented for approval to Luigi Vietti, one of the founders in rome of the Miar (Movimento italiano per l’architettura razionale) From the Porto Antico to the marittime stations and at that time director of the Monuments department of Genoa. in making his choices, the young architect favored a style that was almost antithetical to that of the other station. the interiors were defined by simplicity and functionality, elegance and modernity, and brightness and transparency – rendered by the geometric volumes, soft colors, and the materials employed. Unfortunately, not many of these characteristics have survived. that which the specialized press of those times described as “one of the most modern arrival stations for Il salone doganale della Stazione Marittima di Ponte dei Mille 83 Luigi Vietti, Stazione Marittima di Ponte Andrea Doria, 1932 circa ocean liners” has in fact undergone extensive restylings over the decades, although these have been partially subdued by a recent restoration project that has also comprised the construction of the west wing, which had never been accomplished, and the reconstruction of the destroyed east wing (studio Pinna Viardo, 2002-2013). Luigi Vietti, Poltrona per la Stazione Marittima di Ponte Andrea Doria , 1933, wolfsoniana, Genova Itineraries of the accessible heritage Itineraries of the accessible heritage vISITor InForMaTIon 1. The Parks and Museums in nervi Museo Giannettino Luxoro, Villa Luxoro, via Mafalda di savoia 3, tel. 010 322673, www.museidigenova.it raccolte Frugone, Villa Grimaldi Fassio, via capolungo 9, tel. 010 322396, www.museidigenova.it Parchi di nervi, www.parchidinervi.it Galleria d’arte Moderna, Villa saluzzo serra, via capolungo 3, tel. 010 3726025, www.museidigenova.it wolfsoniana, via serra Gropallo 4, tel. 010 3231329, www.wolfsoniana.it 2. The Monument to the Thousand at Quarto Monumento ai Mille, piazzale F. crispi 3. daneri’s casa Littoria and rationalist architecture in Genoa casa Littoria rionale “nicola bonservizi”, piazza sturla 3 chiesa di san Marcellino, via bologna 8 (san teodoro) Ospedale pediatrico “istituto Giannina Gaslini”, via G. Gaslini 5, tel. 010 56361, www.gaslini.org scuola della Gioventù italiana del Littorio, ex Facoltà di Magistero, corso Monte Grappa 39 stadio comunale del nuoto “Piscine di albaro”, piazza h. dunant 4, tel. 010 8608775, www.piscinedialbaro.com 4. Piazza rossetti and the “Foce” ex ristorante san Pietro, ora stazione di servizio, viale delle brigate Partigiane 19-21 Villa della ragione, via Mainetti 2 (Quarto) aci (automobil club italiano), viale delle brigate Partigiane 1 case dei pescatori, via dei Pescatori 1-11 Palazzine al Lido d’albaro, corso italia 40 Quartiere ina casa, viale bernabò brea complesso di Porta degli angeli, via buonvicini 21-39 (san teodoro) Quartiere ina casa Forte Quezzi, via Loria, via Modigliani, via Fea, via emery (Marassi) casa del Mutilato, corso a. saffi 1, tel. 010 581416 (associazione nazionale Mutilati e invalidi di Guerra) Fiera di Genova, piazzale J.F. Kennedy 1, tel. 010 5391313, www.fiera.ge.it 5. The Staglieno cemetery cimitero monumentale di staglieno, piazzale G.b. resasco, www.staglieno.comune.genova.it 6. Piazza della vittoria and the urban planning of the bisagno river plain stazione ferroviaria brignole, piazza G. Verdi, www.grandistazioni.it Palazzo della Questura, via a. diaz 2 Palazzo del Liceo classico “a. d’Oria”, via a. diaz 1 7. Piazza dante centro dei Liguri, piazza dante, via Madre di dio, corso M. Quadrio casa per abitazioni, via Montevideo 12 casa per abitazioni, via nizza 12 8. Piazza de Ferrari: “the Plaza of the Genoese” teatro carlo Felice, passo e. Montale 4, tel. 010 53811, www.carlofelicegenova.it Palazzo e Museo dell’accademia Ligustica di belle arti, largo a. Pertini 4, tel. 010 560131, www.accademialigustica.it Monumento a Giuseppe Garibaldi, largo Pertini Monumento a Giuseppe Garibaldi, piazza del Monastero, sampierdarena Monumento a Giuseppe Garibaldi, piazza Porticciolo, Pegli Palazzo della nuova borsa, via XX settembre-via dante, tel. 010 541811, www.palazzonuovaborsa.it Palazzo del credito italiano, oggi Unicredit, via dante-via F. Petrarca Palazzo della navigazione Generale italiana, oggi sede della regione Liguria, piazza de Ferrari 1, www.regione.liguria.it Palazzo ducale, ora sede di Genova Palazzo ducale Fondazione per la cultura, piazza Matteotti 9, tel. 010 8171600, www.palazzoducale.genova.it 9. The castello Mackenzie by Gino coppedè and the spreading of eclecticism in Genoa between the 19th and 20th century castello Mackenzie, via Mura di san bartolomeo 16, tel. 010 8395029, www.castellomackenzie.it castello d’albertis, sede del Museo delle culture del Mondo, corso dogali 18, tel. 010 2723820, www.museidigenova.it Palazzo Odero, viale G.c. Odino 6 Palazzo san Giorgio, sede del consorzio autonomo del Porto (c.a.P.), via della Mercanzia 2, tel. 010 2411, www.porto.genova.it castello türcke, via capo di santa chiara 24b (boccadasse) castello bruzzo, via Piaggio 9 Villa canali-Gaslini, sede della Fondazione Gaslini, corso italia 26, tel. 010 369071, www.fondazionegaslini.org Palazzo bogliolo, corso Firenze 9 Palazzo Zuccarino, via Maragliano 2 Palazzo Pastorino, via b. bosco 57 hotel Miramare, via Pagano doria 10. From the Porto antico to the maritime stations Porto antico, www.portoantico.it La città dei bambini e dei ragazzi, Magazzini del cotone, modulo 1, 1° piano, tel. 010 2345635, www.cittadeibambini.net biblioteca internazionale per ragazzi edmondo de amicis, Magazzini del cotone, modulo 1, 2° piano, tel. 010 265237, www.bibliotechedigenova.it Museo emanuele Luzzati a Porta siberia, area Porto antico 6, tel. 010 2530328, www.museoluzzati.it Genoa Museum, Palazzina san Giobatta, via al Porto antico, www.genoacfc.it Museo nazionale dell’antartide, edificio del Millo, calata cattaneo, tel. 010 2470653, www.mna.it bigo, calata cattaneo, acquario e biosfera, Ponte spinola, tel. 010 2345678, www.acquariodigenova.it Monumento a raffaele rubattino, piazza caricamento hotel nh Marina e porticciolo turistico “Marina Porto antico”, Ponte spinola e Ponte Morosini Quartiere cembalo, calata andalò di negro Galata Museo del Mare, calata de Mari 1, tel. 010 2345655, www.galatamuseodelmare.it Facoltà di economia e commercio, via a. Vivaldi 5 casa della Musica, via M. boccanegra 15, tel. 010 4213090, www.casadellamusica.ge.it silos granario “hennebique”, calata santa Limbania stazione marittima di Ponte dei Mille, Ponte dei Mille, e stazione marittima di Ponte andrea doria, Ponte andrea doria, tel. 010 0898300, www.stazionimarittimegenova.com iitineraries between the LeVant and the city center GENOVA MODERNA COP INGLESE_Layout 1 09/02/15 16:39 Pagina 1 Modern Genoa Modern Genoa itineraries between the LeVant and the citycenter