Langtang Lirung 2009

Rescue mission „Langtang _Lirung“, Nov. 2009
WEDNESDAY, November 11.
At 16:42 local Swiss time, Viki Groselj from Slovenia informed me by phone,
that Tomaz Humar was in a bad situation on Langtang Lirung, north of
Kathmandu, injured at 6`300 meters. He had called last on Monday, November
9th. He said that Tomaz may have a broken leg and that a rescue team from
Nepal is on it’s way up to get him down. Viki wanted to make sure if we could
help in case the Nepali team would not be able to get Tomaz from the mountain.
I called Bruno Jelk, president of the terrestrial commission ICAR and rescue
chief of Zermatt. Bruno agreed to help provided that besides a second rescuer
and the technical gear a pilot will be joining the team. We agreed that I would
stay in Zermatt because of my knee surgery and as the coordinator of the
mission. Bruno also agreed that one of our most experienced pilots or a pilot
from Air Glaciers should travel with the terrestrial rescuers to Nepal. Robi
Andenmatten and Simon Anthamatten agreed directly and wanted to have
further information.
We where on standby until Viki`s call the next day.
Picture and e-mail from Simone Moro as additional information
Ciao Simon!!
This Is the face that Tomaz is attempting.
At the base camp there is….
….In attachment the face he is attempting. Tomas showed me in Kathmandu.
Ciao and good luck
Simone
THURSDAY, November 12.
Viki called early in the morning to give us the final „go“. Bruno, Simon and I
had a meeting in Zermatt at 9:30 while Robi was flying sling loads on the
Theodul glacier until 10:00. He rushed home to get his gear and the team flew
with our helicopter to Visp because the train to Zürich was leaving at 10:56. The
air tickets where organized by the office of Air Zermatt. The rescuers arrived
late that night in Doha and went to the hotel. The next morning they flew with
Tomaz doctor and a friend to Kathmandu.
FRIDAY, November 13.
ICAR president Mr. Toni Grab informed the Swiss Embassy in Nepal about the
arrival of the rescue team. The secretary called the German Embassy which is
also representing Slovenia. From Switzerland I tried to organize the arrival of
our team. Viki had informed Ang Tshering Sherpa, the coordinator of the rescue
mission on site. The team arrived inless than 24 hours after leaving Zermatt.
Compared to the mission 4 years ago on Naga Parbat we saved one day at least.
Our representative in Nepal, Mr. Som Bikram Singh, and Mr. Tshering gave all
necessary information to our team and they all had a meeting with the helicopter
company “Fishtail Air” who is exploring a brand new AS 350 B3, the only
civilian helicopter able to do the rescue mission at these altitudes in Nepal.
The responsible pilots and managers where very helpful and our team could
negotiate a possible solution for the next day, because on Wednesday, the
weather on Langtang Lirung was not good enough to try a rescue attempt.
They also agreed to fly up to base camp with 2 helicopters and additional fuel
early the next morning.
SATURDAY, November 14.
One AS 350 B2, piloted by Mr. Suman Pandey, CEO Fishtail Air, as well as a
second AS 350 B3, with Capt. Sabin Basnyat at the controls and Robi
Andenmatten on the Copilot site, including the rest of the team and all
equipment flew at 7:15 local time from Kathmandu airport in direction Langtang
Lirung.
Capt. Basnyat, Robi and Bruno made a first recee flight. Bruno spotted Tomaz
after crossing the col of the south ridge after 10 minutes of flight in the south
west face. They saw the old tracks of the Sherpas on the ridge and found Tomaz
body much further away and slightly lower then expected.
After returning to base camp, Simon went up with Capt. Basnyat and Robi to
select the length of the rope and possible drop position for Simon. There where
at all times only 3 persons on board the aircraft and that weight allowed the crew
to hover out of ground effect with sufficient power margin.
Simon went up on the 25 meter line from base camp and was dropped very close
to Tomaz. Capt. Basnyat and Robi stayed in the vicinity. Simon realized that
Tomaz was not alive anymore and that he had lost almost all of his gear. He
prepared Tomaz’ evacuation and the team decided to fly Tomaz out off the face
and to bring him down to base camp. During the evacuation, Simon remained on
the accident site and waited for the return of the chopper. He was flown down 10
minutes later.
Bruno could not follow the rescue mission from his position and so he was very
happy to have everybody back at base camp. Capt. Basnyat and Robi went up to
Tomaz camp to collect all his staff and did a shut down of the aircraft shortly
later.
The team after the mission
From left
Copilot Robi Andenmatten
Captain Sabin Basnyat
Teamleader and rescue chief Bruno Jelk
Rescuer and climber Simon Anthamatten
The two helicopters returned to Kathmandu and Tomaz Humar was brought to
the German Embassy. Our team returned the same day to Doha and arrived early
Sunday in Zermatt.
The rescue mission unfortunately was not a full success. Tomaz, our friend, died
on Langtang Lirung. We did our best and could react within short time and were
ready for the rescue 24 hours after the “go” from Viki in Kathmandu.
3 days later, the team was back in Switzerland with plenty of experience.
Nobody knows and will ever know when exactly Tomaz died on the mountain.
All the positive and negative aspects of the second direct rescue in the Himalaya
and the first attempt in Nepal must be discussed. The ideal platform is ICAR
with his president Mr. Toni Grab.
Zermatt, November 16, 2009
In the name of the SWISS rescue team
Gerold Biner
www.nepalnews.com, 14.11.09
A Slovanian climber, who had been missing in the Mt Langtang Lirung
(7234m), since November 10 was found dead at the height of 18000ft Saturday
morning.
Rescuers preparing for a search for missing Slovanian climber Tomaz...
Tomaz Humar, 40, was airlifted by Fishtail Air's newly arrived AS 350 B3
helicopter in a specially performed rope operation, but he could not be
brought back alive. Capt Sabin Basnet piloted the rescue chopper.
A resue team from Swiss company Heli Zermat arrived yesterday evening for
this special mission under the leadership of Chief Rescue Officer, Bruno
Zelk which included the rescue pilot Robert Andenmatten and climber Simon
Anthamatten. The rescuers had left for the mission at 7.15 am.
Humar, a noted climer had already scaled Mt. Dhaulagiri from the South
Side, Pumori from South, Amadablam from North ridge and Mt. Nuptse from the
North Face. nepalnews.com
http://24ur.com/novice/slovenija/humar-je-bil-velik-vzornik.html