Beaujolais, Bordeaux and Bergerac
Transcription
Beaujolais, Bordeaux and Bergerac
CELLAR 233 ONTARIO Order by April 27, 2015 Beaujolais, Bordeaux and Bergerac ORDERING MADE EASY! WHAT TO ORDER Read the description or use the profile chart for each wine to help you make your selections. The profile chart features a variety of symbols; consult the legend below to discover which symbols best suit your palate. THERE ARE FIVE WAYS TO ORDER • Order online. Go to opim.ca , sign in and select Order Wine - Show Details or Quick Order Wine. • Email [email protected] with your selection. • Call 1-800-361-9421. • Fax your order to 514-481-9699. • Mail your order. THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO REDEEM YOUR COUPON From the same Cellar Offering… • Order a case of wine and choose your free case from the coupon wines listed on the back cover. OR • Order two cases of wine and receive $75 off your order. Restrictions: Coupons are non-transferrable and cannot be exchanged for cash. See coupon for full details Exclusions: Opimian Select and Founders’ Choice Programs. DELIVERY It takes time! The wines on this Cellar Offering are not yet in Canada. When the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution center, you will receive a Pick Up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick up location. You can follow the status of your shipment at opim.ca. Expected arrival at a Canadian Port is mid-August 2015. Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board, and processing time required by each liquor board. LET US HELP YOU! Contact us at 1-800-361-9421 or email us at [email protected] CONDITIONS OF PURCHASE • Methods of Payment: Credit Card (Visa, MasterCard, American Express) or by cheque payable to Opimian. • Prices include all applicable federal and provincial mark ups and taxes, including GST/HST #105 233 217 and QST #1000640430. • A valid 2015 membership card is required to order and pick up. • Bottle prices are for reference only. All orders are by the case, with no minimum required. • Last day to order from this Cellar Offering: April 27, 2015. A glimpse into the barrel cellars at Château Branas Grand Poujeaux – the time the wine will spend in oak is carefully considered so that the end result complements the overall complexity of the wine. Les Eclats de Branas Grand Poujeaux is aged for 12 months in 50% new, 50% one year old French oak barrels. LEGEND White Aroma Red Taste Rosé Enjoyable now; will develop 6 months-2 years Serving temperature Wine meant for laying down Ideal with Sparkling Bottle size Great concentration Heavy oak Number of bottles in case Medium concentration Light oak Medium oak Less than 100 cases available Very limited quantities Light in body Extremely limited quantities Limited quantities Degrees of Maturity (M) (Scale of 1-10) 1 = lay down 10 = fully mature Degrees of Drinkability (D) (Scale of 1-10) 1 = needs time 10 = ready to drink 2 OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Members’ Choice Drink this year This symbol denotes wines most ordered by Opimian members. These are consistently popular with our membership at large. Opimian Suggests Medal Winner Appeared in the C225 Select Cases (2014 Season) To help novice members, this symbol is a guide to wines that are suitable for starting a cellar, and/or for drinking within two years of delivery. Sweetness scale gms/litre 00 0 - 3 01 4 - 6 02 7 - 12 03 13 - 20 04 21 - 34 05 35 - 50 06 51 - 74 07 75 - 100 08 101 - 139 09 140 - 179 10 180 > Examples Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, many reds Some New World varietals, some reds Champagne, Sparklers, Rosés, few reds Mosel, some Alsace, Anjou Semi-sweet Bordeaux, some sherry Kabinett German, Late Harvest, Alsace Spätlese German, Sweet Loire, Port, Dessert Muscat Auslese, Beerenauslese Icewines, Sauternes, Barsac, dessert wines, Port Icewines, Sauternes, Barsac, dessert wines, Port Speciality sweet wines, Trockenbeerenauslese CELLAR OFFERING 233 Beaujolais, Bordeaux and Bergerac I have already been to Bordeaux twice this year and it’s only February! The first week was spent tasting the wines for this cellar offering. This week I was back with a group of wine professionals from 19 countries, négociants and producers discussing the Bordeaux market, the future for “en primeur”, and the growth of the Chinese market which is now, by far, the largest for Bordeaux fine wines. Opimian’s Wine Consultant Jane Masters MW is a graduate of Bordeaux’s famous Institut d’Oenologie and was elected to the Institute of Masters of Wine in 1997. Fluent in French and English, Jane is currently a member of the Council of the Institute of Masters of Wine, regularly speaks at industry seminars and is a Panel Chair for the International Wine Challenge. There is no doubt that Bordeaux is the largest production region of quality wines in the world. There are over 7000 châteaux in the Bordeaux region. The best of these include the Grand Cru Classé identified in the 1855 Classification of the Médoc, and top estates in Saint-Émilion and Pomerol numbering approximately 500 estates in total. The rapid growth of markets such as that of China and the, up until recently, frantic “en primeur” campaigns dramatically pushed up prices for these top wines. Yet, there are opportunities to enjoy quality wines if one has the time to look for lesser known estates, second wines of the Classed Growths, and certain vintages. For this cellar offering I have selected some favourites amongst these. To complement the wines of Bordeaux, I include wines of a different style coming from the east of France and produced from the Gamay grape. Beaujolais is touted by many critics as the most undervalued wine region in the world today; its top wines once commanded the same prices as those of Pinot Noir from the Côte d’Or. The region has a treasure trove of old vines and small quality-focused producers determined to revive the region and restore its image. Bernard Perrin p. 4 SEMAV p. 14 Vintex et Les Vignobles Grégoire p. 23 Château de Sours p. 8 Vinoma p. 31 Clos Cantenac p. 12 Château Pique-Sègue p. 34 ONTARIO 3 Bernard Perrin Négociant en vins Ternand Beaujolais 8099 $25.83 $155.00 4 Crémant de Bourgogne, 2012, AOC Crémant de Bourgogne, Bernard Perrin Beaujolais, while distinct from the other wines of Burgundy due to the Gamay grape and its granitic soils, is geographically a southern extension of the Burgundy region. Sparkling wines produced throughout Burgundy using the traditional method from Champagne, with second fermentation in bottle, from as far north as Chablis down to Beaujolais, are called Crémant de Bourgogne. In this case, Chardonnay grapes are grown around the town of Villefranche-sur-Saône, in the region known as Pierres Dorées, on limestone soils which suit Chardonnay. The Crémant de Bourgogne has mellow fruits, some quince and a complex, yeasty characteristic. It is a great alternative to Champagne. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Chardonnay White fruits, bready notes Mellow, balanced, [02] 6° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 Salmon rillettes BEAUJOLAIS BERNARD PERRIN >> Beaujolais is currently being heralded by wine critics as one of the most undervalued wine regions. Indeed, a hundred years ago the best wines from the Beaujolais Crus sold for the same price as Pinot Noirs from Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. Sadly, Beaujolais’ reputation was tarnished by the light-bodied, insipid wines that were exported in large volumes around the world in the 1970s. Fortunately, there are old vines and producers determined to change that perception by producing good quality, more serious wines at affordable prices. The region stretches 55 kilometres down from the granite hills south of Mâcon to the flat lands northwest of France’s second largest city and gastronomic centre, Lyon. Beaujolais wines are made from a single grape variety, Gamay, with the best wines coming from granite soils, in particular those of the so-called 10 Crus. Bernard Perrin’s family have been winegrowers in Beaujolais since way back when. We offer some wines produced by Bernard and his nephew from the gentle slopes close to Ternand, as well as wines from three of the ten Crus - Brouilly, Fleurie, and Moulin-à-Vent. The medieval village of Ternand offers a unique panoramic view over a dozen villages in the beautiful valley of the “Pierres Dorées”. The castle ruins date back to the 12th century and the church houses Carolingian frescoes. 8100 $18.83 $113.00 Domaine de Milhomme, Cuvée Le Mûrier, 2014, AOC Beaujolais, Bernard Perrin Domaine de Milhomme sits on the outskirts of the fortified medieval village of Ternand, in the south of the region known as Pierres Dorées. The village, fortified in the 13th century by the Archbishop of Lyon, is surrounded by gentle slopes densely planted with vines. The Perrin family has been associated with the region and winegrowing since the 16th century. Like the best soils in the Beaujolais Cru, there is an outcrop of granite around Ternand which is ideally suited for quality Gamay; soils are infertile and stony. Much of the southern part of the region has clay and limestone. The Le Mûrier 2014 has vibrant blackberry fruits and is medium-bodied with balanced acidity. BEAUJOLAIS BERNARD PERRIN >> Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc Berry fruits Blackberries, medium-bodied 16° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 Pork medallions with blackberry chutney ONTARIO 5 8101 $22.00 $132.00 6 Domaine de Milhomme, Vigne Centenaire, 2013, AOC Beaujolais A large proportion of the vines at Domaine de Milhomme are old, but the vines used for the Vigne Centenaire are especially so, having been planted in 1887. At that time, phylloxera had devastated France’s vineyards, working its way around the country from region to region. The cause took years to identify and the solution remained unknown. If it hadn’t been for the efforts of locally-born ampelographer Victor Pulliat, who knows what would have happened to French wines. Pulliat actively promoted grafting vines onto phylloxera-resistant rootstock; what has become the norm today in many of the world’s wine regions, but which at the time was not widely accepted. Following his advice, Bernard’s great-great-grandfather did so, grafting Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc onto Viala rootstock - et voila! Low yields of concentrated grapes were produced in 2013. The wine has spices, white pepper, black fruits and meaty aromas. It is structured with good acidity. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc Meaty, white pepper Dark fruits, spice 16° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 Lamb chops with frizzled herbs The hay tedder pictured was used by Bernard’s greatgrandfather. It is a reminder of the hard work done in the past and the land bears witness to that time. The Perrin family continues the tradition with the utmost respect. BEAUJOLAIS BERNARD PERRIN >> 8102 $24.00 $144.00 8103 $24.33 $146.00 8104 $25.33 $152.00 Domaine Dit Barron, 2014, AOC Brouilly, Gilles Aujogues There are 10 so-called Crus in Beaujolais, delimited areas named after the villages around which the vineyards are planted, which produce the highest quality Beaujolais wines. These wines, always produced from the Gamay grape, are more structured and age-worthy. The Domaine Dit Barron estate, run by Muriel and Gilles Aujogues, sits on the edge of the village of Cercié within the Brouilly appellation and bordering the Côte de Brouilly. The winery has a perfect view of the peak of Mont Brouilly opposite. Brouilly is the largest and most southern of the 10 Beaujolais Crus. Over the years, Gilles has won awards for the concentration and quality of the wines he produces. His 2014 is bright in colour with delicious, ripe red fruits, cooked cherries, kirsch and chocolate aromas. The wine has a fine, silky texture with good balance and an elegant, long finish. It was produced in the traditional way with no use of oak and maturation in concrete tanks prior to bottling. Domaine de Montangeron, 2014, AOC Fleurie, Frédéric Montangeron Like many growers in Beaujolais, the Montangeron estate is small, a total of 10 hectares, and is spread across five appellations. This is not surprising given the small distance between the Crus, which form a band in parallel with the Saône River, running 24 kilometres from north to south and six miles wide. The majority of the Montangeron vineyards are, however, appellation Fleurie. The vines range from 15 to 100 years of age and are planted on slopes facing south, southeast. As is the tradition, these vines are un-trellised and freestanding, known as “gobelet”; nowadays, more and more plantings introduce trellising and training systems. The soils are crystalline containing large granite crystals. All picking is done by hand and whole bunches of grapes are fermented in concrete tanks. Frédéric’s 2014 is structured and firm. Quite restrained on the nose, it has some pepper spice and is well-balanced with a bitter cherry finish. Domaine de la Sionnière, 2014, AOC Moulin-à-Vent, Cuvée Fût de Chêne, Estelle and Thomas Patenôtre The reputation of the Moulin-à-Vent Cru dates back to the 19th century. Its manganese-rich, reddish granite soils produce structured, age-worthy wines. Thomas Patenôtre makes such wines, having inherited the estate which was founded by his great-great-grandfather. After traditional fermentation in old concrete tanks, the wine was matured in a combination of large oak vats and smaller barrels, giving it coconut and vanilla flavours that complement the red fruit flavours. Deep in colour, it has a juicy mid-palate with medium weight and a long, vanilla and red berry finish. The appellation is named after an old windmill around which lie the vineyards. Its boundaries were set in 1924, making it the first appellation in Beaujolais. BEAUJOLAIS BERNARD PERRIN Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc Cooked cherries, chocolate Red and black fruits 16° C 2015-2018, M7 D9 Guinea fowl filled with couscous and cherries Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc Restrained, pepper spice Well-balanced, bitter cherry finish 16° C 2015-2018, M7 D9 Duck terrine Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc Coconut, vanilla, cooked red fruits Juicy fruits, red berries, vanilla 18° C 2015-2018, M7 D9 Roasted hare filet with chanterelles and chestnut purée ONTARIO 7 Bordeaux Château de Sours Saint-Quentin-de-Baron Martin Krajewski grew up on a farm in the United Kingdom and made his first elderberry wine at the tender age of 14. From humble beginnings come great things. Last year, he celebrated his tenth year as sole proprietor of Château de Sours at Saint-Quentin-de-Baron. Martin is both a serial entrepreneur and collector. He has been collecting wine for over 30 years and has a serious wine cellar in both London and Bordeaux. In 1996, when he was invited to invest in Château de Sours by the then owner, it seemed like a natural progression. Since 2004, Martin has completely rebuilt the winery, re-planted the vineyards, now totaling 85 hectares, and renovated the château which was virtually derelict, making it a beautiful and welcoming place with a real lived-in feel. Martin always has a new project on the go. Château de Sours had a good reputation for its rosé wines, which he has continued to drive, and is developing the same for its whites and reds. Last year, Château de Sours was rewarded for the quality of its reds and received Appellation Bordeaux Supérieur status. 8 OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Next year’s release of Réserve de Sours Sparkling Rosé rests peacefully in the naturally temperature-controlled labyrinth of limestone tunnels beneath the winery at Château de Sours. BORDEAUX CHÂTEAU DE SOURS >> 8105 $17.33 $208.00 8106 $17.33 $208.00 8107 $17.33 $208.00 Richemont du Château de Sours Blanc, 2014, AOC Bordeaux There are now a total of 85 hectares of vineyards at Château de Sours, of which six hectares produce the Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes for the Richemont Blanc. The Richemont has no use of oak with pure focus on fresh fruit. On the nose a hint of tomato leaf leads to citrus flavours and a mineral, linear finish. The grapes were picked mid-September, fermented at low temperature in stainless steel tanks, and matured eight months before bottling. Richemont du Château de Sours, 2014, AOC Bordeaux Rosé Martin describes the 2014 season as a bookend vintage, one that started well with successful and even flowering, followed by a changeable and cool summer which was then saved by five weeks of glorious sunshine from the end of August through to the end of harvest. The Richemont Rosé 2014 is a blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc. It is pale in colour with restrained strawberry fruit aromas. The grapes were picked midSeptember, gently pressed in the pneumatic press, and fermented at low temperature in stainless steel tanks. The wine was kept on fine lees with regular lees stirring adding depth on the palate. Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon Sherbet, tomato leaf Limes, [00] 6° C 2015-2016, M8 D9 Summer vegetables cream pasta Merlot, Cabernet Franc Earthy fruits Red fruits, firm acidity, [00] 6° C 2015-2016, M8 D9 Roasted red pepper hummus Richemont du Château de Sours, 2013, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon In 2014, the red wines at Château de Sours attained Bordeaux Supérieur status. This is in recognition of the focus on quality with higher planting densities in the vineyards and reduced crop levels. The Richemont red is produced from grapes from the estate’s younger vines. This special blend was created for Opimian with winemaker Valérie Valmy and has a lower proportion of Merlot than has been the norm. Soft and juicy, it has berry flavours with a sour red cherry finish principally coming from the Petit Verdot. The Merlot was picked lateSeptember and the harvest ended early-October with the later-ripening Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. After fermentation at 27°C, 40% of the wine was matured in second and third fill French oak barrels for 10 months and the balance in tank for 18 months. Ripe dark fruit BORDEAUX CHÂTEAU DE SOURS >> Supple, red fruits 18° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 Beef stew over egg noodles ONTARIO 9 8108 $25.33 $152.00 Château de Sours Blanc, 2014, AOC Bordeaux The Château de Sours Blanc 2014 is more aromatic and intense than the Richemont Blanc with delicious tropical fruits, limes and grapefruit aromas. The palate is soft with nice weight and a long lemon and lime finish with just a hint of vanilla. It was produced from 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon coming from four hectares of old vines within the estate. The grapes were picked during fine conditions in mid-September with the cool early morning helping to preserve all the fresh fruit characteristics. 100% of the wine was fermented in barrel with the oak enhancing rather than dominating the fruit flavours; 20% was in new, 30% in second fill, and 50% in third fill barrels. The wine remained in barrel on lees with regular bâtonnage (stirring of lees) until it was bottled. Château de Sours, 2013, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur The limestone plateau at Château de Sours, on which these vines are cultivated, produces structured, tight wines that are firm in youth, requiring some time in bottle to mellow. The 2013, a blend of 74% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot, has restrained aromas with a firm palate, but very fine texture. Flavours of plums and bitter cherries emerge with great concentration. This wine needs some time to reach its optimum. The grapes were hand-harvested at the end of September, early October, and left to cold soak before fermentation and malolactic in tank. The wine was subsequently aged for 13 months in French oak barrels; 30% new and 70% second and third fill. I recently had a message from an Opimian who had just opened their last bottle of Château de Sours 1990 and were pleased to find it was drinking very well. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend waiting that long, but it does show the potential of this estate. 8109 $27.17 8111 $46.33 $278.00 10 $163.00 Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon Lime, grapefruit Tropical fruits, lemon, lime, hint of vanilla, [00] 6° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 Spiny lobster with brown butter, capers and croutons Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot Restrained Plums, bitter cherries, concentrated 18° C 2016-2022, M6 D6 Roast leg of lamb with dark plums and Merlot sauce 8110 $56.00 $168.00 La Source du Château de Sours Blanc, 2013, AOC Bordeaux I have recently been tucking into the La Source Blanc 2011, and it’s absolutely delicious now. In fact, I served it on New Year’s Eve and my guests were blown away; the elegant style improves with a little time in bottle. The 2013, tasted in January 2015, was showing a little muted, although it had nice lime, mineral and vanilla notes. I am sure it will come into its own in the next six months. Sémillon grapes, coming from 55 year old vines, represent 20% of the blend with the balance coming from two hectares of Sauvignon Blanc planted seven and 22 years ago. The palate is soft with citrus flavours of limes and grapefruits, and a mineral finish. There is no obvious oaky characteristic despite the fact that is was fermented in barrel, 30% new and 70% second fill. It is elegant with great poise and balance. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon Lime, vanilla, mineral Fresh grapefruit, mineral finish, [00] 6° C 2015-2018, M7 D9 Roasted Arctic Char, black lentils ragout, braised artichoke hearts, in a shallotwhite wine reduction BORDEAUX CHÂTEAU DE SOURS >> La Source du Château de Sours, 2013, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur The best blocks of Merlot are used to produce La Source du Château de Sours red. 100% Merlot, all the grapes were handpicked on October 3rd and October 5th with miniscule yields produced in 2013 due to the poor weather conditions during flowering in June. Fortunately, the devastating hailstorm that hit the Entre-deux-Mers region on August 2nd passed to the south of Château de Sours narrowly missing it, but wiping out much of the neighbour’s crop completely. Fine weather in August and September meant that the grapes were fully ripe when picked, allowing an extended time on skins during fermentation with regular pigeage, pushing down of the skins for maximum extraction of colour and tannins. The wine was matured in French oak barrels, 40% new and 60% second use, giving it a cedary, pencil lead characteristic. It is concentrated with firm acidity, solid tannins and ends on vanilla and balsamic notes. 8112 8113 $53.33 $320.00 $110.67 $332.00 BORDEAUX CHÂTEAU DE SOURS Merlot Oaky, cedar Vanilla, balsamic, dark fruits 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D7 Venison steak served on rösti with green salad, bacon and mustard dressing The early morning August sun gently kisses a cluster of Merlot berries and with “véraison” well underway, harvest is almost in sight. ONTARIO 11 Clos Cantenac Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Opimian was one of Clos Cantenac’s first customers and can chart the progress of this precious “bijou” estate. Martin Krajewski purchased Clos Cantenac with friend and colleague Marcus Le Grice in 2006. Slowly, they built up the estate from the original 1.7 hectares to its current six hectares. Martin became the sole owner last year. His latest vineyard acquisition took place in January, 2015 as I was selecting wines for this cellar offering and I know he has his eye on further plots. A badly needed barrel maturation cellar was inaugurated in early 2014, giving the winemaking team more space to work and store equipment. Architects have submitted plans to the local Mairie for approval to build a new wing. The style is very much in keeping with local architecture using natural materials and local artisans. It will create space for storage of its own agricultural farm machinery, so that it will be independent of Château de Sours, and a new tasting room. 12 OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 BORDEAUX CLOS CANTENAC >> Clos Cantenac, 2013, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2013 was a challenging vintage for all throughout the Bordeaux region with poor fruit-set producing low crops, and weather conditions that meant the grapes struggled to ripen. The importance of selection and the sorting of grapes was greater than ever. Harvest at Clos Cantenac started on October 1st with a large team picking early in the morning, a team of six sorting the bunches on arrival at the winery, and individual berries sorted again by another team of eight to ensure only top quality, ripe fruit made it into tank. The grapes for Clos Cantenac were all harvested by October 2nd and underwent a cold maceration for seven days prior to fermentation, with regular pumping over. The wine was put into oak barrels for the malolactic fermentation with 40% new French oak conferring cedar and spice aromas which complement red cherries and sour cherry flavours. The palate is concentrated with good structure and will benefit from cellaring for a couple of years, at least, before drinking. This wine is a testament to Martin Krajewski’s and Valérie Valmy’s absolute commitment to quality. 8114 8115 $74.83 $449.00 $152.67 $458.00 $42.83 $257.00 $88.67 $266.00 BORDEAUX CLOS CANTENAC Sour cherry, well-balanced, firm tannins 18° C 2018-2025, M6 D6 Roast duck breast, fondant potatoes, pan-fried cep mushrooms and Bordelaise sauce $318.00 $318.00 Despite being the “little brother” of the Grand Vin, do not be misled. This is a serious wine which also has the potential to age, although it will reach maturity earlier. The Petit Cantenac has a proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (6%) and Cabernet Franc (9%) blended with Merlot from some of the older plots. Made in a similar way to its “big brother”, it is deep ruby in colour with a mellow bouquet of ginger, spice and black fruits. The palate is soft on the attack with good concentration, weight and a long, liquorice finish. 8118 Cedar, red cherries, spices 8116 Petit Cantenac, 2013, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 8117 Merlot 8119 $207.00 $207.00 Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon Vanilla, ginger Mellow, fruits, liquorice 18° C 2015-2025, M6 D7 Milk-fed veal loin with fennel bulb purée, fava beans, beurre noisette and rosemary flowers Martin Krajewski and Marcus Le Grice conjuring up a little magic during the 2013 harvest at Clos Cantenac ONTARIO 13 SEMAV The Johnston Family Harvest at Château Daugay – the estate is planted majority Merlot with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. It also produces a second wine – Château Petit Pindefleur. The Johnston family has centuries of history in Bordeaux. Indeed, Nathaniel Johnston was involved in creating the famous 1855 Classification of the wines of Bordeaux. As a prestigious, fine wine négociant, the Johnstons have intimate knowledge of the top châteaux. The Classed Growth wines can be very expensive, but there are opportunities to enjoy fine bargains amongst their second wines as well as lesser known estates. Earlier drinking vintages like 2007 and 2008 are currently showing well with nice development and the 2009, with its richer fruit, has more potential for ageing. Together, we have focused on the key wine regions of Graves, Médoc, Pomerol and Saint-Émilion using this philosophy to come up with wines that are a pleasure to drink and which offer good value for money to our members. 14 OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 BORDEAUX SEMAV >> 8121 $12.00 Prince Pirate Blanc, Vin Blanc de France Produced by SEMAV exclusively for Opimian, the Prince Pirate Blanc is a blend of 60% Sémillon and 40% Ugni Blanc. It is light and fresh with pears and white fruit flavours. Sémillon, Ugni Blanc Pears Light, refreshing, [00] 6° C 2015-2016, M9 D10 $144.00 Poached chicken, pear and walnut salad 8122 $11.83 Prince Pirate Rouge, Cuvée Nouvel Horizon, Vin Rouge de France Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon This light and fruity red is a blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is soft and easy to drink with a firm finish. Soft, easy to drink Vinous 16° C 2015-2016, M8 D9 $142.00 8123 $14.42 Roasted tomato pasta The Opimian Society’s Claret, AOC Bordeaux The Opimian Society’s Claret is what, in the old days, one would perhaps have termed “luncheon” claret. Deep in colour, it is restrained and medium-bodied with structure. Ready for early drinking, it is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Plums Balanced, grippy tannins 16° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 $173.00 Pork tenderloin with Merlot-shallot sauce Left Bank Graves 8124 $15.83 $190.00 Château Maillard, 2012, AOC Graves Château Maillard has become a regular feature in our Bordeaux cellar offerings and once again the wine produced by Bruno David punches above its class and price. Full of cedary spice, it is well-balanced with fine texture. Bruno has built up his estate, at the southern end of the Graves region, starting with just 10 hectares; it is now 58 hectares all in one plot. The vines have an average of 30 years of age with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Graves region, which produces both red and white wines, lies on the left bank of the Gironde River, south of Bordeaux town, and is named after its well-drained, loose gravelly soils. BORDEAUX SEMAV >> Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Cedar, plum Well-balanced 18° C 2015-2018, M7 D8 Beef brisket with slow-roasted Romano beans and black olive aïoli ONTARIO 15 Médoc 8125 $27.67 $166.00 8126 $36.33 $218.00 16 Château Tour Salvet, 2012, AOC Haut-Médoc Château Tour Salvet lies in the heart of the Médoc at Cussac-Fort-Médoc, between Margaux and Saint-Julien. The 2012 has marked oaky aromas of cedar and spice; 50% was aged in new oak barrels for 10 months. The palate is concentrated with firm tannins and a toasty vanilla finish. This wine will benefit from a year or two in the cellar before drinking. It is produced from a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot, 20% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. The estate has been owned and restored by the Kopp family since the fifties and is currently run by daughter Hélène Soale and her husband. Château Sénéjac, 2012, AOC Haut-Médoc For anyone that has the 2010 Château Sénéjac that was offered last year lying in their cellar, the 2012 is a lighter style with delicious truffle, fruit flavours, ready for earlier drinking. Personally, I would keep the 2010 a bit longer and tuck into the 2012 in the meantime. Château Sénéjac is one of the better known Cru Bourgeois, first classified in the 1920s, and is located at Le Pian-Médoc just outside the southern end of the Margaux appellation. The 2012 has a developed, spicy bouquet and is quite soft and light on the palate with liquorice, dark fruits and truffle flavours that linger. Produced from a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, the grapes were picked from September 28th through to October 15th. The wine was matured for 12 to 15 months in oak barrels, 30% new. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc Cedar, spice Nice weight, toasty vanilla finish 18° C 2016-2020, M6 D6 Stuffed saddle of lamb with spinach, mushrooms and herbs Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot Truffles, earthy, spice Dark fruits, liquorice 18° C 2015-2019, M7 D9 Black pepper pappardelle with wild hare ragout and black truffles Château Tour Salvet lies in the heart of the Médoc at Cussac-Fort-Médoc, between Margaux and Saint-Julien. BORDEAUX SEMAV >> 8127 $38.83 $233.00 8128 $43.83 $263.00 8129 $57.33 $344.00 Château du Moulin Rouge, 2009, AOC Haut-Médoc Château du Moulin Rouge lies in the commune of Cussac-Fort-Médoc, close to the estuary, with 18 hectares of vines on gently sloping gravel ridges. These are planted with 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. 2009 is a ripe, concentrated vintage and the Château du Moulin Rouge is showing classic developed notes of leaf and tobacco. Mellow, yet still fresh, with red fruits and a rich mid-palate, the wine is concentrated with fine texture and a long, red berry and bitter cherry finish. The wine was matured for 12 months in French oak barrels and was bottled in early May, 2011. It was awarded a Gold Medal at the Concours de Bordeaux in that year, and well-deserved too. Les Allées de Cantemerle, 2009, AOC Haut-Médoc, Château Cantemerle Château Cantemerle was awarded Classed Growth status in the original 1855 Classification of the great red wines of Bordeaux. This, the estate’s second wine, is produced from grapes from the younger vineyards, yet it has all the class and distinction of the Grand Vin. 2009 was a lovely, warm vintage expressed by the ripe mid-palate fruit of the wines. The estate lies at the southern end of the Haut-Médoc on deep gravel soils in the communes of Macau and Ludon. Les Allées de Cantemerle 2009 has spicy aromas with dark fruits, leather and meaty notes. More fruit is displayed on the palate with fine texture and flavours of liquorice and dark cherries with a lingering finish. Produced from 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, it was matured for 12 months in oak, 20% new, and has great balance. Les Fiefs de Lagrange, 2011, AOC Saint-Julien This is the second wine of Château Lagrange, one of 11 Classed Growths in Saint-Julien from the 1855 Classification. The wines of Saint-Julien are powerful and elegant, less firm than Pauillac, but denser and weightier than Margaux. Château Lagrange lies a bit inland from the Gironde estuary and has been owned by the Japanese Suntory group since 1983. The group heavily invested in the property and it again consistently produces high quality wines. Vineyards are spread over two hills stretching both north and south on pebbly, stony soils with clay and limestone subsoil. Deep ruby in colour, the 2011 Les Fiefs de Lagrange is mellow with aromas of spice, leaf, earth and chocolate. Well-balanced with good weight, it has a fine, powdery texture and the structure to develop. Over 100 pickers were employed during harvest to gather the grapes from September 15th to October 5th. It is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot, and was aged in oak for 13 months. BORDEAUX SEMAV >> Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc Leaf, tobacco, raspberry Rich mid-palate, bitter cherry finish 18° C 2015-2019, M7 D9 Magret de canard with Bordelaise sauce Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc Spicy, dark fruits, leather Dark cherries, good weight, long finish 18° C 2015-2019, M7 D9 Venison Wellington – Venison short loin in puff pastry with Portobello mushrooms, smoked bacon, sage and peppercorn sauce Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot Herbal, spices Mellow, concentrated, chocolate 18° C 2015-2022, M6 D8 Herb-crusted roast strip loin of beef ONTARIO 17 8130 $61.33 $368.00 18 Château Labégorce, 2012, AOC Margaux The Margaux appellation is considered to make the most supple and fragrant wines of the Médoc. Château Labégorce lies just north of the village of Margaux and the château itself is every bit what one pictures as a Bordeaux château; designed by architect Corcelles in the late 1700s, it is an elegant neo-classical mansion. Vineyards are planted around the château on thin, gravelly, sandy soils. 65 hectares are planted with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. Despite challenging conditions during the growing season, the 2012 is elegant with red fruits, vanilla, spice and floral notes. It is soft with medium weight on the palate and a long, cedary finish. In fact, despite the varietal split in the vineyard, the final blend of the 2012 is majority Merlot (53%). The grapes were picked by hand the first half of October and underwent a cold soak prior to fermentation in concrete and stainless steel vats. The wine was aged in barrel with 40% new oak for 15 months. Gorsse was a common name in southwest France in the middle ages and it is believed that the name Labégorce came from an Abbot Gorce. The existence of the Noble House of La Bégorce since 1332 is mentioned in Edouard Féret’s edition of 1868 as being one of the most beautiful and best-placed estates in the village of Margaux. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot Vanilla, red fruits Cedary, spice, floral 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D8 Oven-roasted rack of lamb with roasted vegetables ratatouille BORDEAUX SEMAV >> A panoramic view of Château Labégorce and its vineyards 8131 $67.67 $406.00 Château Pibran, 2012, AOC Pauillac Last year, we offered the 2009 Château Pibran, this year we include the 2012. Once again the wine was one of my highest scoring in the selection tasting, beaten only by Château La Pointe 2012. The 2012 Château Pibran is vibrant and complex with aromas of vanilla, nutmeg, and red cherries. The palate has a fine texture with concentration, real depth and structure, with cherry fruits and vanilla flavours. Less structured than the 2009, it is also less expensive and I reckon worth every dime. A blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, it was aged in 50% new and 50% one year old oak barrels. Château Pibran’s 17 hectares of vineyards are on the high plateau of Pauillac close to both Pontet-Canet and Mouton Rothschild. It is run by the same crew that has turned around the fortunes of Château Pichon Baron. Classed as a Cru Bourgeois, it is rated higher in quality than some of the Classed Growths by many critics. BORDEAUX SEMAV >> Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Vanilla, nutmeg Red cherries, vanilla 18° C 2015-2025, M6 D8 Roast veal T-bone with Dijon mustard crust, pommes dauphinoise, sautéed Savoy cabbage and Madeira herb jus ONTARIO 19 8132 $117.33 $704.00 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 2007, AOC Pauillac, Grand Cru Classé The Pauillac appellation produces structured, meaty wines. The terroir of gentle slopes, made up of Quaternary gravel deposits with large pebbles and sand, is freedraining over subsoil that acts as a buffer to maintain just the right amount of water for the vines’ roots. Lying to the north of the Médoc, close to the Gironde estuary and the ocean, the climate is heavily influenced by the Atlantic. The appellation boasts a total of 18 Grands Crus Classés including Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste which is located west of the town of Pauillac at Artigues. “Puy” is an ancient term meaning “hillock, small height” and refers to the 90 hectares of vineyards planted on these gentle slopes. This is similar terroir to Pauillac’s First Growths, hence perfect for producing quality Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2007, a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot, is perfect for drinking over the next few years with mellow aromas of coffee and truffles. The palate is elegant and refined with a long, cassis and smoky flavour. The wine was matured in French oak barrels for 16 months, 70% new. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Coffee, truffles Mellow, cassis, smoke 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D8 Grilled beef filet with roasted garlic mash and sautéed baby spinach served with mushroom and truffle sauce Right Bank 8133 $19.67 $118.00 8134 $31.83 $191.00 20 Château Les Tours Seguy, 2007, AOC Côtes de Bourg The Côtes de Bourg, on the right bank of the Gironde estuary, is an area that is often overlooked. Château Les Tours Seguy, in the heart of the region, is just 30 kilometres north of Bordeaux town. Its 15.5 hectares of vines are on stony alluvial soils facing south-westwards towards the estuary. For those that enjoy the mature flavours of aged claret, but who don’t have the time nor inclination to wait, this wine is perfect for drinking over the next couple of years. Complex with interesting liquorice and treacle aromas, it is well-developed with chewy tannins on the finish, and it doesn’t break the bank! Château Ampélia, 2008, AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, Murielle & François Despagne The Côtes de Castillon region extends eastwards from Saint-Émilion and is named after the town of Castillonla-Bataille that sits on the Dordogne River; it is where in 1453, the final battle that ended the Hundred Years War took place. François Despagne, descendant from a centuries-long winemaking family in Saint-Émilion, invested in the Côtes de Castillon with his wife Murielle in 1999. Having studied winemaking (we were at Bordeaux University together), and fascinated by Ampelography (the identification and classification of vines), François and Murielle named this, their top cuvée, Ampélia. It is produced from 95% Merlot with a touch of Cabernet Franc. The 2008 has a developed bouquet with notes of cedar, ginger and woodlands. It was aged in oak for 12 to 15 months with one third new, one third one year old and the balance two year old barrels. Only a small number of cases were produced from the 4.75 hectares. The wine is showing nice development and will continue to mellow for some years. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc Liquorice, treacle Complex, firm finish 18° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 Roasted squab breast, Black Mission figs in Madeira and savoury steel cut oats Merlot, Cabernet Franc Developed, woodlands, cedar Dark fruits, spices 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D7 Oven-roasted wild duck with blackberry sauce and celeriac purée BORDEAUX SEMAV >> Saint-Émilion 8135 $53.67 $322.00 Château Daugay, 2012, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Christian de Boüard de Laforest Once upon a time the 5.5 hectares vineyard of Château Daugay was included in the Grand Vin from Angelus (now ranked as Premier Grand Cru Classé “A”). The Daugay vineyard is a single plot which lies on the southern slope down from Saint-Émilion, just 800 metres from Château Angelus. Both are owned by the de Boüard de Laforest family. Château Daugay separated from Angelus in the late 1980s to become an entity in its own right. Hélène de Boüard de Laforest makes the wines and has run the Château Daugay estate since 2006, producing classic Saint-Émilion wines. The 2012 is a blend of 62% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and has restrained aromas with fleshy dark fruits, blueberries and raisins. The grapes were harvested by hand in early October starting with the Merlot October 8th to 10th and ending with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon on October 10th and 11th. The wine was aged in new, one year old, and two year old oak barrels for 18 months. BORDEAUX SEMAV >> Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon Dark fruits, blueberries Quite firm, raisin finish 18° C 2015-2019, M7 D9 Filet au poivre with grilled asparagus, French fries and peppercorn Cognac cream sauce Left: Château Lagrange, Saint-Julien, 3rd Growth - 1855 Classification, new oak barrels being filled with Cabernet Sauvignon Right: Harvesting Merlot at Château du Moulin Rouge in October, 2009, a process which extended over a three week period ONTARIO 21 8136 $131.17 $787.00 Château Croix de Labrie, 2011, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru This “garage” wine (a term used on the Right Bank for micro-production of top quality wines) is from the estate of Croix de Labrie developed by Michel Puzio. Just 2.52 hectares split between three plots at Badon (near Château Pavie Macquin), Saint-Sulpice-de-Faleyrens (next to Château Valandraud) and Saint-Christophedes-Bardes beside the cellar. Each plot has a different terroir ranging from sandy clay over limestone, dense clay soils, and clay-limestone soils, each bringing a different characteristic to the final wine. The 2011 rated highly by Parker (and I agree, although we don’t always see eye to eye) is already showing delicious dark fruits, cedar, smoke and a touch of leather making it ready for drinking now or in the future. The palate has fresh juicy fruits and a long smoky finish. Produced from 100% Merlot, the grapes were handpicked on October 7th and October 18th and underwent a cold soak before fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine went through malolactic transformation in barrel and was matured for 18 months in new French oak. In 2013, the estate was bought by Axelle and Pierre Courdurié who continue to manage it with the same absolute attention to detail as Michel using the guidance of consultant Michel Rolland. In future, it will be interesting to see how the style of wine changes with this new regime. Merlot Cedar, dark fruits, smoke Juicy fruits, hint leather 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D9 Braised red cabbage purée with a smoked bacon white bean ragout topped with grilled lamb chops Pomerol 8137 $51.00 $306.00 8138 $77.17 $463.00 22 Pomerol La Pointe, 2012, AOC Pomerol This is the first of two wines produced at Château La Pointe under the guidance of consultant Hubert de Boüard de Laforest of Château Angelus fame. The Pomerol La Pointe 2012 has spicy dark fruits and treacle aromas. On the palate it has nice concentration with good mid-palate fruit and weight. The estate consists of 22 hectares planted 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc on a range of soils; smooth rounded pebbles from the Isle River terraces, clay-gravel soil, sandy soil on clay, and sandy soil on gravel. This, the second wine, is produced for earlier drinking, but will benefit from some time in bottle. It was part matured in oak, part in vat. Château La Pointe, 2012, AOC Pomerol The Grand Vin from Château La Pointe is the same vintage as the Pomerol La Pointe; in years to come it will be interesting to see how these wines develop. The richest, most concentrated and structured barrel lots go in to produce the Grand Vin. This was my highest scoring wine in the tasting. It is dense with lots of spicy aromas, red fruits and cherries on the palate with firm tannins and good structure. The wine was aged in oak using 50% new barrels. It is well-balanced and the oak well-integrated, and will benefit from some time in bottle. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Merlot, Cabernet Franc Restrained, dark fruits Treacle, spice 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D7 Veal short rib ragout, fava beans, pearl onions and potato purée Merlot, Cabernet Franc Spices Dense, red fruits 18° C 2016-2025, M6 D6 Tournedos Rossini – pan-fried filet mignon served on a crouton with foie gras BORDEAUX SEMAV Vintex et Les Vignobles Grégoire Vintex may only have a history of decades rather than centuries as a Bordeaux négociant, but it has a very strong calling card. The business was originally set up by Bill Blatch, known as the “secret agent” of Bordeaux. Bill knows everybody, from the famous to the small and modest properties that make up the Bordeaux scene. He has subsequently been commissioned to write a book about his experiences and is a consultant to Christie’s auction house. Vintex et Les Vignobles Grégoire continue what Bill started and are now both producers of wine, the Grégoire family owns a number of châteaux including Bois Noir and previously Château de La Rivière, and négociants with a particular strength for finding the best of the small guys; modest family-run estates determined to make the best wine that they can. Château de La Rivière is one of the oldest estates in the Fronsac appellation. Its history dates back to 769 when the Emperor Charlemagne ordered the building of a fort on this site. It takes its name from the Dordogne River that runs through the region. BORDEAUX VINTEX ET LES VIGNOBLES GRÉGOIRE >> ONTARIO 23 8139 $22.67 $136.00 8140 $34.00 $204.00 Clos Sainte-Anne, Sauvignon-Sémillon, 2014, AOC Bordeaux, Famille Courselle Clos Sainte-Anne, set in the heart of the Entre-deuxMers region close to the little town of Capian, is the private home of Marie Courselle. She and her sister Sylvie inherited a passion for wine from their father Francis Courselle who developed the wines and reputation of Château Thieuley. Both sisters studied agricultural engineering and oenology, and now jointly run the family’s estates. Clos Sainte-Anne has just 1.5 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon vines planted on the steep south-facing slope that drops down from the house to a little stream that joins the Garonne River. The 2014 has delicious gooseberry flavours with an elegant wellbalanced palate and long mineral finish. No oak is used; the wine was bottled straight from the tank. Château Magneau, Julien, 2012, AOC Graves, EARL Les Cabanasses, Ardurats & Fils The Graves region, on the left bank of the Garonne River, stretches from the southern limit of Bordeaux city down beyond Sauternes to Langon. The region’s gravelly soils make similar quantities of quality white and red wines. Château Magneau at La Brède is just 25 kilometres from the heart of the city. La Brède is where lawyer, political philosopher and writer Baron de Montesquieu was born at the eponymous Château de La Brède in 1689. Château Magneau itself is also an ancient property belonging to the Ardurats family, winegrowers dating back to before the reign of Henri IV who came to the throne in 1589. The vineyards are planted on exposed hills of hard gravel. Produced from 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Sémillon, the Château Magneau Julien 2012 has aromas of pink grapefruit, vanilla with ripe fruit flavours of passion fruit, and succulent limes. It is soft, round, and well-balanced with a lingering white peach finish. The wine was fermented in oak and subsequently matured on fine lees for seven months with regular lees stirring. 8141 Château Haut Maginet, Blanc, 2014, AOC Bordeaux, Vignobles Jolivet 8155 Free case CHOICE for this Cellar Offering $18.50 $111.00 COUPON 24 The sleepy village of Soussac (population less than 200), at the eastern boundary of the Entre-deux-Mers region, is one of the highest points of the Gironde department known as the Butte de Launay, and is where the Jolivet family has been cultivating vines for four generations. Château Haut Maginet is to be found at the heart of the village. The white produced from 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sémillon and 15% Muscadelle has attractive gooseberry and passion fruit flavours, and a soft palate with a long, fresh lime, citrus finish. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon Gooseberry, delicate Medium-bodied, mineral finish, [00] 6° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 Pesto and artichoke thin crust pizza Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon Pink grapefruit, vanilla Soft, passion fruit, limes, [00] 6° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 Prawn ravioli with lemongrass broth Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle Gooseberry Passion fruit, lime, [00] 6° C 2015-2016, M9 D9 Halibut ceviche BORDEAUX VINTEX ET LES VIGNOBLES GRÉGOIRE >> Behind the hunter with his dog, a beautifully exposed plot of young Merlot vines early in the growing season, blessed with some sunshine! 8142 $18.50 $111.00 Château Haut Maginet, 2014, AOC Bordeaux Rosé, Vignobles Jolivet Jean-Marc Jolivet and his wife Catherine have continued to build up the vineyards at Château Haut Maginet since taking over management of the estate. This rosé is produced from a blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon grown on a four hectares plot on a southfacing slope. Baby pink in colour, it has fresh fruit aromas and strawberry flavours with a long, red berry finish. 8143 Château Haut Maginet, Rouge, 2014, AOC Bordeaux, Vignobles Jolivet 8156 Free case CHOICE for this Cellar Offering $18.50 $111.00 Deep in colour, the Château Haut Maginet 2014 has fruity plum and violet aromas. The palate is soft with nice fruit and firm tannins. It is produced from a blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc. The vineyards are planted on clay-limestone soils with grass-cover between each row to control humidity and the vigour of the vines. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Fresh fruits Red berries, [00] 6° C 2015-2016, M9 D9 Spinach, red pepper and goat cheese frittata Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc Plums, violets Dark fruits, firm tannins 16° C 2015-2018, M7 D8 Red wine-braised beef rib roll with parsnip-potato mash COUPON BORDEAUX VINTEX ET LES VIGNOBLES GRÉGOIRE >> ONTARIO 25 8144 $17.50 $105.00 8145 $18.67 $112.00 26 Château du Pin, 2012, AOC Bordeaux, SCEA Vignobles J M Constans Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc This extremely modest winery (not to be confused with Le Pin) is run by husband and wife team Jean-Marie and Claudette Constans. The 46 hectare estate has been in Jean-Marie’s family since 1880 and is named after the giant centuries-old pine tree that stands in front of the house. The couple splits work between them, Jean-Marie is happiest on his tractor, she in the winery; they make simple, good value, down-to-earth wines. The 2012 has plum aromas with a hint of leather, a soft attack on the palate, and medium weight followed by grippy tannin on the finish. It is a blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Cabernet Franc. Plums, hint of leather Château Clou du Pin, 2013, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur, SCEA des Domaines Fontana Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc I have tended to avoid 2013 Bordeaux reds as, although there are exceptions, I find many of them lack substance and ripe fruit. This one is another story, scoring highly in the tasting in terms of value for money; at this price it can’t be beaten. It is medium-bodied with fine texture, silky tannins, sour cherry flavours and a long, spicy finish. The small family estate of Château Clou du Pin lies in the far east of the Entre-deux-Mers boundary close to the Dordogne River at Gensac and has just eight hectares of vines. This Bordeaux Supérieur is a blend of 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Cabernet Franc. Jammy fruit OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Medium weight, grip 18° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 Portobello mushrooms stuffed with sausage, spinach and cheese Sour cherries, spicy finish 18° C 2015-2019, M7 D8 Grilled beef burgers BORDEAUX VINTEX ET LES VIGNOBLES GRÉGOIRE >> 8146 $21.67 $130.00 8147 $22.67 $136.00 Château Jouanin, 2012, AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, S.A.R.L. de Fongaban Château Jouanin vineyards are at Monbadon, close to Puisseguin and approximately 12 kilometres from the town of Saint-Émilion. Owner Pierre Taïx has made a wine with delicious cedar and spice aromas; it was aged in oak, 10% new. It is structured with good mid-palate weight, dark cherry fruits, vanilla and toasty flavours with a firm, but ripe tannic finish. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, it is approachable now and will continue to mature and improve. Château Bois Noir, 2008, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur Last year we offered the 2010 Château Bois Noir. This year, as the 2008 is tasting so good, we have decided to go back a couple of vintages. Deep ruby in colour, the wine has a developed bouquet with aromas of liquorice, forest floor, leaves and spice. The palate has good mid-palate fruit and weight with a smoky, treacle finish. Produced from 100% Merlot, the Château Bois Noir, owned by Cyrille Grégoire, is north of Libourne and covers 26 hectares of vines on a slope rising 78 metres. The clay-limestone soil sits over silt and blue clay subsoil. The wine spent 14 months in oak barrels, one third new. Merlot, Cabernet Franc Cedar, spice Dark cherries, vanilla, toast 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D8 Turkey drumstick braised in red wine served on creamy polenta Merlot Liquorice, spice Dark fruits, treacle 18° C 2015-2019, M7 D9 Roast woodcock with Madeira sauce The Briest family, owners of Château Haut Nouchet, along with famous French singer-songwriter Serge Lama (centre) BORDEAUX VINTEX ET LES VIGNOBLES GRÉGOIRE >> ONTARIO 27 One of Clos Sainte-Anne’s best plots of Sauvignon Blanc vines 8148 $22.50 $135.00 8149 $46.17 $277.00 28 Château de La Rivière, 2014, AOC Bordeaux Rosé, Vignobles Grégoire Some Opimian members will remember visiting with me the impressive Château de La Rivière, located in Fronsac close to Libourne, in October 2012. It is an impressive building with an extensive eight hectare old chalk quarry beneath it which is perfect for barrel maturation. This rosé, produced from 78% Merlot and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, is quite deep in colour with intense red berry fruit aromas. Soft with a broad structure, it has a long raspberry finish. Château de La Rivière was the property of James Grégoire who sadly died in a helicopter accident on the same day he sold the estate to a Chinese businessman for an estimated sum of 30 million Euros, the largest Chinese investment in Bordeaux at that time. There are now 100 châteaux owned by Chinese investors in Bordeaux. Château de La Rivière, 2011, AOC Fronsac The vineyard at Château de La Rivière covers 60 hectares and is planted on clay-limestone soils. The 2011 has a mellow spices, cooked fruits and ginger bouquet. Medium-bodied, it has ripe fruit leading to a firm finish with chewy tannins and grip. It is a blend of 85% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Malbec. Each variety was picked and fermented in a combination of oak and stainless steel vats with extended four weeks maceration. The wine went through malolactic in barrels, with 40% new oak, and spent a total of 15 months maturing prior to bottling. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Intense, red berries Broad, red fruits, raspberries, [00] 6° C 2015-2016, M8 D9 Swordfish and tomato kebabs with salsa verde mayonnaise Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec Spice, cooked fruits Ripe fruit, ginger 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D8 Garlic and herb lamb with rosemary potatoes BORDEAUX VINTEX ET LES VIGNOBLES GRÉGOIRE >> A very small part of the five hectare underground cellars below Château de La Rivière. Temperatures are constant in winter and summer. 8150 $33.17 $199.00 8151 $35.33 $212.00 Roquefortissime, Château Roquefort, Sauvignon, 2014, AOC Bordeaux Château Roquefort lies in the heart of the Entre-deuxMers region at Lugasson. The region has been inhabited for centuries with traces to the Neolithic Age 5000 BC in the form of a covered alley and burial site. The site’s prominent position, with steep slopes on each side, made it easy to defend and discouraged attackers. The more recent, pretty 18th century château, beneath which is a limestone quarry as well as a 16th century dovecot, has been restored by the Bellanger family. It is not only the history and the land that is impressive, winemaker Samuel Mestre makes some pretty good stuff too. The Roquefortissime is the top of the range and a classy wine. A selected plot of the best Sauvignon Blanc on the estate, the grapes were pressed and fermented in French oak barrels creating a wine with floral and vanilla notes, good structure and a crisp, flavoursome finish. Roquefortissime, Château Roquefort, Merlot, 2012, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur The altitude and chalky terroir of Château Roquefort creates firm, structured red wines. The estate is a mere 20 kilometres from the town of Saint-Émilion, and the wine is made from 90% Merlot. This is a very different style to the fleshy, plump Merlot wines found in SaintÉmilion and Pomerol; it is more akin to Graves or Médoc. Roquefortissime 2012 has an herbal, vermouth aroma. On the palate, it has more cooked plums and vanilla flavours with a rich mid-palate and fine texture. It can be drunk now, but will benefit from some time in the cellar, becoming softer. BORDEAUX VINTEX ET LES VIGNOBLES GRÉGOIRE >> Sauvignon Blanc Floral, vanilla Broad palate, fresh apples, [00] 6° C 2015-2017, M8 D9 Shrimp and asparagus risotto Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Herbal, plums Cooked plums, rich palate, vanilla 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D9 Wild mushroom and sausage lasagna ONTARIO 29 8152 $45.17 $271.00 8153 $45.33 $272.00 8154 $58.50 $351.00 30 Arpège by Haut Nouchet, 2010, AOC PessacLéognan Pessac-Léognan was recognized a designation of origin in its own right in the early 1990s. Château Haut Nouchet, at Martillac, lies on the region’s highest point. Vineyards are planted on three outcrops of gravel benefiting from sunshine and the cleansing wind from the southwest. Arpège 2010 is deep plum in colour with liquorice, damsons, plums and leaf aromas. The palate is fresh and vibrant with red fruits and good tannins. It was produced under the guidance of esteemed consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt. The wine underwent malolactic partly in new oak and was matured in barrel for 12 months. Les Eclats de Branas, Grand Poujeaux, 2012, AOC Moulis-en-Médoc Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Damsons, liquorice, leafy Red fruits 18° C 2015-2018, M8 D9 Chateaubriand with Bordelaise sauce and roasted baby potatoes Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot Château Branas Grand Poujeaux is situated in Moulis-enMédoc. The 12 hectare estate was purchased by Belgian merchant Justin Onclin in 2002 and has undergone a complete renovation. Les Eclats de Branas Grand Poujeaux 2012, the second wine of the estate, is a blend of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. Deep in colour, it has a mellow bouquet with dark fruits and cedar. The dense palate has tangy fresh fruits, vanilla, and black and red cherries with good tannins. It was matured in 50% new and 50% one year old oak barrels for 12 months and has scrummy vanilla and cooked fruits on the finish. Mellow, dark fruits, cedar Les Angelots de Villemaurine, 2010, AOC SaintÉmilion Grand Cru Merlot, Cabernet Franc Les Angelots de Villemaurine is the second wine of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé Château Villemaurine purchased by Justin Onclin in 2007. The property consists of seven hectares planted in the heart of Saint-Émilion’s limestone plateau. Deep plum in colour, the aromas are bursting with soft black fruits, blackberries and vanilla. The palate is mellow, concentrated and rich with all the succulence of Right Bank Merlot. It is a blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The grapes were harvested by hand with double-sorting, then each lot was fermented in small capacity vats with a slow, gentle extraction to maintain the wine’s elegant profile. The wine underwent malolactic in barrel and maturation with 40% new and 60% two year old barrels. The expertize of consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt and the philosophy of precision winemaking employed has seen the quality of wines produced at Villemaurine skyrocket. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Red and black cherries, vanilla 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D8 Homemade gnocchi with sautéed mushrooms and Bordeaux wine reduction Blackberries, vanilla Concentrated, rich 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D9 Lamb loin with fennel, Brussels sprouts and black olives Entrance - Château Haut Nouchet BORDEAUX VINTEX ET LES VIGNOBLES GRÉGOIRE Vinoma Angelita & Michel Baucé Pineuilh, Gironde Angelita and Michel Baucé are based at the far extremity of the Bordeaux appellation and the Gironde department at Pineuilh. The couple has a particular interest in organic and natural wines. It is not always an easy farming method to master under Bordeaux growing conditions which include a marginal climate with high humidity, and temperatures that can create disease-pressure; it’s all about the site (location, location, location) and know-how. From some of today’s lesser-known appellations, but which are rich in wine history, we offer some small estates producing high quality wines. Château Lagrange in the Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation which replaced the previous Premières Côtes de Bordeaux appellation in October, 2009 BORDEAUX VINOMA >> ONTARIO 31 8158 $24.67 $148.00 8159 $28.33 $170.00 8160 $34.17 $205.00 32 Château Lagrange, 2010, AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon The Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation lies on the right bank of the Garonne River stretching from Bordeaux city to Saint-Maixant for 60 kilometres. The land is a series of twisting and turning slopes and valleys which follow the path of the river generally facing southeastwards. The first vines were planted on these slopes after the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar during its subsequent occupation centuries ago. Château Lagrange at Capian, owned by Olivier Lacoste, is a small estate currently in transition to organic status. 9.6 hectares are cultivated on stony, sandy loam soils. The 2010 was made from a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. It has aromas of strawberries, spice and incense with a supple mid-palate and firm tannin on the finish. It was matured for 18 months with one third in barrel prior to bottling. Strawberries, spice Château Labadie, 2011, AOC Côtes de Bourg, Élevé en fûts de Chêne Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc Côtes de Bourg lies on the right bank of the Dordogne River, close to where it converges with the Garonne to form the Gironde estuary approximately 35 kilometres north of Bordeaux city. The ancient port of Bourg was used to ship wines in the middle ages, and vineyards along the estuary were often established to keep up with the insatiable demand. Château Labadie has 65 hectares in the heart of Côtes de Bourg and regularly receives awards for its wines. The 2011 oaked cuvée was awarded a Silver Medal in Paris and deservedly so for it is especially rich and concentrated for the vintage, and offers great value. Ruby in colour, it has intense aromas of coffee and spice; more fruit shines through on the palate with fine texture and a vanilla finish. The vines are cultivated on gravelly, clay, limestone soils with slopes facing both east and west. The grapes underwent a cold soak prior to fermentation and the wine was aged for 12 months in French and American oak, 50% new. It is a blend of 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. Spice, coffee Château Corbin, 2011, Vieilles Vignes, AOC Montagne-Saint-Émilion The so-called satellite appellation of Montagne-SaintÉmilion borders Saint-Émilion to the south with Pomerol to the west. Château Corbin, which lies on the road between Libourne and Montagne, has been standing on this site since 1606; still intact, its barns and dovecot are surrounded by 23 hectares of vineyards. The Rambeaud family have been winegrowers here for four generations. The Vieilles Vignes is produced from a small three hectare parcel of Merlot planted over 50 years ago and vinified separately from the rest of the estate. The 2011 is concentrated and structured with aromas of black olives and liquorice. On the palate there are dark fruits, cedar and spicy flavours. The wine was matured for 12 months with 40% in oak. OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Supple, long incense finish 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D9 Pot-roasted veal with porcini mushrooms Ripe fruits, oak 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D9 Boeuf Bourguignon Merlot Spice, cedar Firm palate, concentrated 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D7 Quail and wild mushroom pithivier with confit leg and celeriac remoulade BORDEAUX VINOMA >> 8161 $29.50 $177.00 Château Fontebride, 2013, AOC Sauternes Over the years, we have offered Château Fontebride and Château Haut-Bergeron, both Sauternes wines produced by the Lamothe family, Patrick and Hervé. Indeed, this year I tasted both 2013s and both showed superbly well. I would be very happy to pay for and drink either; however, in the end I plumped for Château Fontebride. It may not be as well-known as the Haut-Bergeron, but it offers exceptional value for money. The six hectares vineyard lies adjacent to Haut-Bergeron, and the same skill, loving care and attention shines through in the wine. Produced from 90% Sémillon, 5% Muscadelle, and 5% Sauvignon Blanc, the grapes are picked individually, berryby-berry, going through the vineyards up to six times to catch the berries at exactly the right moment of noble rot development. The 2013 is mellow, complex and elegant all at the same time. The bouquet has aromas of honey and spice, with more apricot and vanilla on the palate. It was matured for 12 months in oak. BORDEAUX VINOMA Sémillon, Muscadelle, Sauvignon Blanc Mellow, honey, spice Complex, apricots, honey, spicy finish, [08] 8° C 2015-2025, M6 D8 Caramelized foie gras with fresh fig infused with spices, broiled apricots with fresh ricotta and pistachios Hervé and Patrick Lamothe of Château Haut-Bergeron and Château Fontebride – The vineyards total 17 hectares and are located in Sauternes, Bommes and Preignac. Neighbours to the illustrious Château D’Yquem, over the last 40 years the wines have earned 63 Gold Medals, making the domaine the most awarded of the Sauternes appellation. ONTARIO 33 Bergerac 34 OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 233 Château Pique-Sègue Philip & Marianne Mallard Bergerac follows on eastwards from the satellites of Saint-Émilion and is planted with similar grape varieties. The region is inland and over 100 kilometres from the coast so that the influence of the Atlantic Ocean is less, hence the climate more extreme, producing wines with a personality of their own; concentrated and more rustic in nature. Château Pique-Sègue, located on the left bank of the Dordogne River, not only boasts 60 hectares of vineyards, but also a prize herd of highly-valued Limousin cattle. Philip and Marianne purchased the estate in 1990. An old property, it appears in Bordeaux’s Guide Féret in the 19th century and is cited as being one of the most beautifully-sited in the region. BERGERAC CHÂTEAU PIQUE-SÈGUE >> 8162 $21.33 $128.00 8163 $21.33 $128.00 8164 $21.33 $128.00 Château Pique-Sègue, 2014, AOC Montravel The Montravel appellation for white wines borders that of Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Traditional white Bordeaux varieties are planted on slopes of calcareous soils high in tufa. In this instance, the wine is a blend of 60% Sauvignon, 30% Sémillon and 10% Muscadelle. The wine is pale in colour. Mineral notes combine with passion fruit and lime, citrus flavours. After picking the juice was left in contact with the skins for 12 hours before gentle pressing. Château Pique-Sègue, 2014, AOC Bergerac, Rosé The 2014 Pique-Sègue Rosé is a departure in direction; the wine is much paler in colour with elegant fruit flavours. Previous years have produced deeply-coloured (almost red) wines, an old-fashioned Clairet-style, quite heavy and structured on the palate. This is a welcomed change. Produced from 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, it has floral notes and strawberry fruits. The palate is nicely balanced with tangy acidity. Château Pique-Sègue, 2013, AOC Bergerac Produced from 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, the Château Pique-Sègue 2013 has plummy fruit aromas. On the palate, it is linear with a firm, slightly austere acidity and rustic tannins. It is concentrated and won a Silver Medal in Paris. It will benefit from some cellaring prior to drinking. Sauvignon, Sémillon, Muscadelle Mineral, slate Passion fruit, lime, [00] 6° C 2015-2016, M8 D9 Pike in Bergerac white wine sauce and potato purée Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Floral Balanced, good acidity, [00] 6° C 2015-2016, M8 D9 Salmon pâté with prawns and gazpacho Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Plums Concentrated, structured 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D7 Grilled black angus entrecôte with béarnaise sauce, carrots and green beans 8165 $34.17 $205.00 Terre de Pique-Sègue, Anima Vitis, 2009, AOC Montravel Terre de Pique-Segue is the top wine of the range made by Marianne and Philip. Produced from 90% Merlot with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, the vineyards are planted at high density. 2009 was a warm and ripe vintage, producing concentrated wines with structure and ripe fruits. Still quite restrained in terms of aroma, the Terre de Pique-Sègue 2009 has ripe fruits on the palate with fine texture and ripe tannins on the finish. The wine was matured for 15 months in French oak barrels. BERGERAC CHÂTEAU PIQUE-SÈGUE Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Chocolate, leather Dark fruit, structured 18° C 2015-2020, M6 D7 Braised lamb shank with rustic potatoes ONTARIO 35 OUR COUPON PROGRAMS Refer a new member, and upon joining, both you and the new member will receive a coupon for one of two great rewards YOUR COUPON GIVES YOU OPTIONS! 1. Order a case of wine & choose your free case from the free case choices for this Cellar Offering: Lot 8155 (See Lot 8141 on page 24) Lot 8156 (See Lot 8143 on page 25) OUR WINE PROGRAMS OPIMIAN SELECT Taste the World! Only Opimian gives you access to exclusive cellars from around the world. A successful innovation catered to New Members and those who are still uncertain of what to order, the Opimian Select program allows you to try a minimum of 24 wines – from every day sippers to a gourmet dinner partner – at a fixed price of $102. Sign up for Opimian Select and receive a mixed case from every Cellar Offering regardless of whether you are away, on holidays or simply forgot to place your order. Develop your palate, taste the classics from each region, discover new varietals and experience what our suppliers have to offer! Application forms are available for download at opim.ca under “Downloads”. THE SELECTION Opimian Select includes a case (6 bottles) of three to six different wines from a featured supplier on each Cellar Offering. Mostly reds with the occasional white or rosé, these wines showcase the variety of styles available through Opimian - if you happen to find a favourite wine, make note of the supplier for future Cellar Offerings! To browse past selections and tasting notes, sign in at opim.ca and click on “Opimian Select” in the left hand column. View details by clicking on each wine name or supplier. “Opimian Select is an educational experience and, as any wine lover knows, it is essential and fun to continuously try new things.” ~ David Lawrason, Toronto Life OR 2. Order two cases of wine & receive $75 off your order opim.ca OR 800-361-9421 “Opimian’s philosophy is to create bonds between people through wine.” ~ Roberto Echeverría, Opimian Supplier FOUNDERS’ CHOICE Cherish the Experience! The premium wine experience – only with Opimian! Established in recognition of Opimian’s founders, this program offers premium wines from our most cherished suppliers – at a fixed price of $188. Each wine is specifically selected to dedicate to the spirit of Opimian. Some are hidden jewels discovered in a cellar by our Master of Wine; others are specially crafted by our suppliers with the Founders’ Choice program in mind. Application forms are available for download at opim.ca under “Downloads”. THE WINES Sign up for Founders’ Choice and receive a case (6 bottles) of premium wine from every Cellar Offering that is ready to drink and has great cellaring ability. Each wine comes with a dedicated back label and a personal message from the supplier detailing why they chose to share with us this one-of-a-kind wine. These wines are not, and will never be, on any Cellar Offering and can only be received by signing up for this program. To browse past selections and tasting notes, sign in at opim.ca and click on “Founders’ Choice” in the left hand column. Clos Cantenac is the Founders’ Choice feature supplier on this Cellar Offering. #420 - 5165 Sherbrooke West, Montreal, QC, H4A 1T6 T: 514-483-5551 or 800-361-9421 F: 514-481-9699 [email protected] www.opim.ca