de la serra de mariola - Generalitat Valenciana
Transcription
de la serra de mariola - Generalitat Valenciana
de la serra de mariola English version Parc Natural de la Serra de Mariola [email protected] Mas dUll de Canals Ctra. Alcoi-Banyeres, km 17.5 Apartado de correos 157 13450 Banyeres de Mariola (Alacant) Tel. 965 56 63 83 http://parquesnaturales.gva.es Assistance from: Printing this material has been possible thanks to the Cooperation Agreement signed on 21st April 2006 by the Caja de Ahorros y Pensiones de Barcelona, "la Caixa" and the Generalitat Valenciana (Autonomous Community Authority) for Undertaking the Integral Management Plan for Conservation of the Natural Systems of the Valencian Communitys Network of Nature Reserves. Layout: Benjamín Albiach Galán Kun.Xusa Beltrán Photography: Benjamín Albiach Galán Núria Lara Bernàcer Miquel Vives i Miralles G. B. Map Design: Pau Pérez Puigcerver source: ICV (Cartographic Institute of Valencia) Texts: Environmental educacion team Printed: Legal Deposit: Centro Especial de Empleo, IVADIS Date of PORN approval: 2nd April 2001 Date on which it was declared a Nature Reserve: 8th gener 2002 Municipalities inside the Reserve: Shared by Agres (723 m), Alcoy (560 m), Alfafara (582 m), Banyeres de Mariola (816 m), Bocairent (641 m), Cocentaina (435 m) and Muro d'Alcoy (399 m), it has a rugged relief and major contour differences, above all to the NE (Montcabrer, 1390 m). The Sierra de Mariola mountain range, whose area of over 16,000 hectares was declared a nature reserve on 8th January 2002, spreads over the Vall d'Albaida, l'Alcoià and El Comtat counties, and is one of the most well-established reserves in Valencian popular culture. Some prominent features of the area are the many springs, country houses and a criss-crossing paths all over it, which vouch for all the hard work done taking advantage of the natural resources by its former settlers - ice-dealers, shepherds, woodcutters and others - who made their living from this land. These are all reasons why the Sierra de Mariola, a real natural paradise in which there is a wealth of floral species unequalled in the whole Valencian Region, has become something that the local people fully identify themselves with and a major landmark whose attractions continue to appeal to generations of hikers and day-trippers. Human heritage Countless archaeological findings bear witness to man’s presence in the range since times immemorial, mainly to the SE and in the proximity of Vinalopó, with numerous paintings and remains of mainly Neolithic, Bronze age and Iberian settlements. An unquestionable symbol of these areas are the cavas (snow well) – cellars or vaults used from the 16th to the 20th centuries for storing snow, transforming this into ice by compacting it and then selling it in summer; transporting this to nearby counties for use in preserving food, making icecreams or for therapeutic purposes. B. Albiach Galán Other characteristic features of the human influence on this landscape are the masías - selfsufficient country farmsteads, farming and forestry units generally run by a single family, based on cultivating unirrigated land and stockbreeding. There are also defensive buildings castles, spread over the peaks of the range, and religious buildings - chapels. Cava Arquejada and the Montcabrer peak Geology Climate In this huge limestone mass, which originated in the Cretaceous age, when the zone coincided with the edge of a sedimentary marine basin, there are major palaeontological sites such as the one in Querola, as well as outcrops of materials (clays) proper to the Triassic age, Keuper period. Mariola enjoys a typically Mediterranean climate, with a fairly large range of microclimates, and major differences depending on the direction the land faces and its altitude. Most of the rainfall is on the northern and western faces, while the extreme southeast has the most continental climate. Snow tends to be frequent in winter, above all in the higher parts and more exceptionally in spring. The higher zones of the range are subject to large amounts of mist and dew, rainfall that cannot be quantified but is not insignificant, especially for the vegetation. Karstic processes (dissolution of limestone rocks by water) are what have mostly determined the present morphology of the range, with emblematic formations such as the Cint ravine or the Sarsa cave. The snow is in the habit of being frequent in the high levels of the Nature Reserve B. Allbiach Galán B. Allbiach Galán The Montcabrer from The Penyes Monteses Plant life Mariola, with its over 1400 vascular plants, is doubtlessly a marvellous example of the biodiversity of species and settings. It is famous for the ones with aromatic and medicinal properties: Mariola sage, camomile, thyme, cat’s tail, hypericum, rock tea,... and for other ethno-botanical uses that have been made of them since ancient times; for preparing drinks, as a culinary condiment, as a remedy for all kinds of complaints, preparing perfumes, and others. In Mariola one can find anything from areas degraded by fires to good examples of potential climacic vegetation: the holm oak grove, and in shady areas, mixed Mediterranean woods, accompanied by kermes oaks, Mediterranean mezereon, junipers, evergreen buckthorn, etc.. Most of the range is however covered with pine trees and thickets with briar, heather, rockrose… and there are also some good examples of edaphic vegetation in the Vinalopó area, and major plant communities associated with springs (such as that of Molí Mató). Mariola sage (Salvia blancoana subsp. mariolensis) Núria Lara Bernàcer The “Teixera d’Agres” yew tree grove is a major feature, still containing some extraordinary specimens of this remarkable magic tree. B. Albiach Galán Golden eagle Fauna Fox B. Albiach Galán The great variety of environments also entails a major diversity of fauna. There are thus insects and many other invertebrates, amphibians (frogs and toads) reptiles, (Iberian wall lizard and large Psammodromus, ocellated lizard, Montpellier snake, Lataste’s viper...), birds (finch, partridge, serin, robin, common tit...; daytime birds of prey: golden eagle, peregrine falcon, goshawk...; nocturnal birds: imperial owl, spotted owl, barn owl...) and mammals (boar, rabbit, wild cat, stone marten, weasel, genet, badger, fox...), colonising woods, meadows, cliffs, caves, rivers, ponds farmland and even urban centres. t òfo Barranc del Cint l 2 L’Horteta del Pobre 1 La Creu Ermita de Sant Cristòfol El Preventori Font de Moia Barran Alcoi quet d e S o le r N-340 Baradero de Moia Miquel Vives i Miralles Fe rri Ba rra nq ue t de San t Cris Sant Cristòfol chapel . Vantage points in the sun 1 Route: An outing to Sant Cristòfol Cross Route: Preventorio (Alcoy)- La Horteta del Pobre Sant Cristòfol chapel and cross- La Horteta. Duration: 1 hour Distance: 2 kilometres Ascent: 170 metres The route starts in El Preventorio recreation area. The building with the same name was built in the 1950s as a hospital for children with tuberculosis. Years later it became a residence for orphans and is an old people’s home today. 2 The path starts by the large pond and heads into the ravine, towards the Horteta del Pobre [point 1], with barbecue facilities, tables, spring and a wooden bridge, all in a nicely prepared cool area. There are many paths leading to the top – at an altitude of 921 m, with the cross and Sant Cristòfol chapel [point 2], which is what gives its name to this public area – so the most convenient option should be taken to avoid the proliferation of new shortcuts and to reduce the erosion process on the slope; head up through the pines where there is a covering of perennial grass and the odd savin juniper; also rosemary bushes, blackthorn, salvia cistus, hipericum ericoides, evergreen buckthorn... With a little luck you will be accompanied on the way by the majestic flight of the griffon vulture, a species which has colonised the cliffs of the Cint ravine and surroundings, thanks to a reintroduction scheme (Canyet Project). The present chapel, restored some years ago, is a 20th century building constructed on an early 14th century one: beside it there is a cistern and the large iron cross, either metres high, that can be seen a long way off, and was built in the 1950s to replace the original wooden one, made in 1903, which was destroyed during the Civil War. From this wonderful vantage point one can see the city of Alcoy and surrounding mountain ranges: La Serreta, Els Plans, Carrascal de la Font Roja, the Almudaina range, Serrella, Aitana and the Puig Campana. To the north you will be surprised by the Cint ravine and the foothills of Mariola, with Cocentaina and its castle and mount Benicadell in the background - Beniarrés reservoir at its feet – and the distant Safor mountains; to the west, El Castellar and the green fields of Baradello. We should stress that the whole area, chapel, paths and surroundings, have been prepared through the anonymous and uninterested endeavours of many retired residents of Alcoy, lovers of the mountains and who have year after year made this place their own and everyone else’s home. B. Albiach Galán The way back to the starting point is by a less steeply-sloping path which you should leave before reaching Baradello de Moia to go back to the beginning in a fast and easy descent. Barranc del Cint del Mol í Garlí 00 ra n c -7 CV Bar c de Barr an Agres Font de Bonell Font de l’Assut Refugi 1 La Teixera El Convent Microreserva Fonteta del Tio Rufino Ombr ia d e la M a r io El Teix caseta de vigilancia Cava de l’Habitació 2 3 ingle ec El R Refugi Montcabrer Cava Gran Caveta del Buitre Miquel Vives i Miralles Refugi Font del Molí Mató, microreserve . In the shade of the snow well An outing through Mariola’s shady areas Route: The Convent (Agres)- Montcabrer shelter and cava de La Habitació - Cava Gran icehouseMontcabrer shelter - The Convent. Duration: 3 hours Distance: 7.5 kilometres Ascent: 455 metres tle (12th century). In the 15th century, the Virgin Mary appeared to a mutilated shepherd at the top of a hackberry tree in this same spot. To commemorate this fact a chapel was built, and later on the Franciscan convent. Above all in September this chapel is visited by a long procession of people from the surrounding area. Starting from the Convent recreation area, go up the left-hand slope from which you can see the Molí ravine and town of Agres. In a few metres you will come to the foot of the chapel [point 1], built on the ruins of an old originally Moslem cas- The path, steep at first, heads into the ravine, where it is crossed by many others; in order to avoid the growing erosion, we recommend always following the option with the least slope. This path was used by the ice-makers who transported the ice on their beasts of 1 B. Albiach Galán El Teix burden to the villages in these counties. Then go on up through the Mediterranean thickets of Aleppo pines while you enjoy the panorama behind you. 2 Cross a forest path which leads to La Teixera d’Agres, continue along the track until you come up to El Teix ice-house (18th century) which may go unnoticed through being almost covered by ivy. A little further on you will reach Montcabrer shelter, built in 1975 on the remains of the former Habitació house [point 2], where the ice-dealers who worked in the zone spent the night during the snow collecting period. In a few metres you will come to the cava known as La Habitació (18th century) which still keeps its masonry dome almost intact. Right at the top of El Teix is the lookout hut. This point has an outstanding view: Montcabrer, Recingle, la Valleta d’Agres, the counties of the Vall d’Albaida and La Costera, Benicadell, Beniarrés reservoir and La Safor in the background; Albureca, Almudaina, the Serrella and Aitana. 3 Go on along the path by the forest road southeast towards Cava Gran ice-house (also known as Cava Arquejada), an obvious symbol of this range. Built from the 17th to 18th centuries, it was in use until the early 20th century, and again used at times during the Civil war. It is 11 m deep with a 15 m internal diameter, three arches crossing in 0 N-34 Agres Penya del Frare Poblado Ibérico de la Mola Muro el Teix 1261 Font del Moli Mató A. R. Alfafara Bocairent Ermita de Sant Jaume Cova de la Sarsa Ermita de Sta. Bárbaral 1 -8 CV el Portín Alt de la Cova Vin alo les Huit Piletes Ermita de Sant Cristòfol Pic Negre Montcabrer 1390 Castell de Mariola Alt de la Codolla Penyes Monteses 912 1354 Font de Mariola A. R. Font de Mariola Poblado Ibérico de l’Alberri Ermita de Sta Bárbara Bnc. del Bou Rio A. R. Font Balcó de Llopis 1169 CV-794 962 Cava Gran Caveta del Buitgre Cava de D. Miguel 1087 Font del Tarragó Font del Pla Morro del Porc Font de la Boronada pó Castell del Vinalopó Refugi les Foietes Cocentaina Poblat del Bronze Ba de la Mola Alta rr an c de lC in Font Freda t Banyeres de Mariola Font de la Coveta Montes de Rodeno Cova del Conill Urb. Sargento l’Eixarc Font de la Burra 1094 Barxell Ermita i castell de Barxell 40 -3 95 Alcoi N Urb. Montesol CV-7 Ermita i creu de Sant Cristòfol Urb. Baradello Gelat Ermita de Polop E: 1/100.000 0 carretera PORN (Planning scheme of Natural Resources) senda Route: An outing to Sant Cristòfol Cross límite administrativo An outing through Mariola’s shady areas construcciones An outing along the head of the River Vinalopó Route: An outing through Comtat county 2.000 4.000 8.000 m Go back along your track to the shelter and take the forest track that drops down to the left, to the north-east, where you will find juniper, kermes oak, briar, thyme, Mariola sage or hedgehog broom. As you go back down you may find traces of stone martens, foxes or boars. Go by Tío Rufino spring to end up crossing an asphalted track which leads on the left to the Fuente del Molí Mató recreation area. To return to the starting point go to the right and continue along the Convent path, flanked by huge cypresses which welcome you back, walking along in front of the cavities known as the Bou Caves. the centre, in line with the vertices of the outer hexagon. This structure held up the beam and thatched-latticework vault, finished off with Arab tiles. Inside it you will see a sturdy yew tree. Nearby there is a spring by the access tunnel. This high point is the priority habitat of many birds such as the crow, the wheatear, or the Alpine accentor, apart from birds of prey such as the kestrel or golden eagle Santuari de la mare de Déu del Castell/el Convent (Agres) B. Albiach Galán B. Albiach Galán Cava Gran (Agres) Font de la Coveta 3 Mas de Galbis Blanes (Molí de Dalt i de Baix) La Borrera (Molí Campana) 2 1 Montes de Rodeno Mas de les Monges Molí Nou p alo ó Font de Vin Rio la Burra Casetes de l’Ansari -7 CV ixc arr ó Núria Lara Barnàcer 95 El Bu Information centre “Ull de Canals” . The Water way. An outing along the head of the River Vinalopó The route starts at the farmstead known as Mas d’Ull de Canals, taking the forest path appearing to your left that will then be followed almost to the end of the route. On the left you will see terraces of olives and almonds, and quite a few little houses scattered around the area known as El Ansarí. To the right, the prevalent vegetation is bushes with pine trees. Ahead of you Vinalopó castle comes increasingly into view and while you walk you will be able to see the effects of the devastating fire in 1994 on the nearby slopes. Route: Mas d’Ull de Canals farmstead (Banyeres de Mariola)- La Borrera (Molí Campana)- Blanes factory (Molino de Baix y de Dalt)- Fuente de la Coveta spring - Mas d’Ull de Canals farmstead Duration: 1 hour 45 minutes Distance: 6.5 kilometres Ascent: 20 metres This route goes along the upstream stretch of the river Vinalopó, with water as its salient feature, through countryside characterised by riverbank ecosystems, hazelnut trees and market gardens, apart from items connected with making use of water: ponds, canals, dams and mills used at old factories. 1 Going on between the terraces, after about 2.5 kilometres from the start, you will reach the Campana mill [point 1], with its characteristic Miquel Vives i Miralles Blanes factory (Molino de Baix y de Dalt) chimney. In the beginning, in 1712, the building was designed as a flour mill; later on, in 1810, it was converted into a paper mill (a full-scale factory complex, famous for its smoking paper) and finally -between 1855 and 1968- it was transformed for production in the textile sector. The track goes on in parallel to the river, through the pretty riverbank wood made up of poplars, willows, reeds and other species, accompanied by the flight of golden orioles, nightingales, robins and other birds which brighten up the way with their lively colours and pleasant song. Head on upstream until you come to the series of factories in Blanes [point 2]: originally set up as flour mills (later 18th century) and turned Blanes chimney Núria Lara Bernàcer 2 Núria Lara Barnàcer The Vinalopó River into the paper sector from the early 19th century until 1942. 3 Cross the river and go on up the path that leads through the interior of the riverbank forest, the habitat of large numbers of creatures such as the common frog, the viperine snake, or some wellconcealed trout. As you walk along by holm oaks, willows and some climbing plants, it will not take long to get to La Coveta spring [point 3]: a cavity around two metres high in a little dell to the right of the path. This has traditionally been considered as the birth of the Vinalopó, though in actual fact the water comes from Els Brulls, or even from an area further up, close to the Mas de Bodí. What is indeed true is that the water permanently comes to the surface in this spring, thus creating a real river of life. The water goes on its way through Sax, Elda, close to the Sierra de Crevillent range, crossing Elche and disappearing before reaching the sea. This covers a total of 92 km with little flow, as the river has since ancient times been used as the driving force of textile and paper factories, and also for irrigating the crops on its banks. To go back, head directly along the forest track towards the factories and from there to the surroundings of the Mas d’Ull in Canals. C FFC -V ale N-340 Al co i Ermita de Sant Cristòfol - Xá tiv a n cia Cova del Balconet Cocentaina Penyeta Blanca Mas de l’Alberri Pla de la Font TUNEL El Castell Palau Comtal el Fabricant Ermita de Sta. Bàrbara Miquel Vives i Miralles apeadero recreation area Ermita de Sant Cristòfol (Cocentaina) 3 A date with history Route: An outing through Comtat county Route: Palau Comtal (Cocentaina)- El RavalSanta Bàrbara Chapel – Cocentaina Castle- Sant Cristòfol Chapel- Pla de la Font- La Vila- Palau Comtal. Duration: 1 hour 45 minutes Distance: 4.5 kilometres Ascent: 265 metres 1 The route starts at the Palau Comtal, a Gothicrenaissance palace of great artistic and architectural quality, built over a former 12th century Moslem building at the orders of Roger de Lauria, the first feudal lord of the town. The walks sets off from the Plaça del Mercat, along the alleys in the former Moslem district of the Raval, with their peculiar winding layout among low, narrow houses. Go on along Calle del Forn and El Salvador church, until you come to the cross, from which you will follow a concrete path as far as Santa Bàrbara Chapel recreation area [point 1]: this is a “conquista” type building dating back to the second half of the 13th century. Go on, crossing the road, to take a path by an electricity pylon which zigzags along the side of the mountain to head up the slope without difficulty, by crops of olives and almonds repeated all along the route, on land wrenched Núria Lara Bernàcer tants of the surrounding farmsteads. In a gothic military style, with ogival shapes in arches, doors windows and interior decoration, it has a square floor plan 13x12 m, on a masonry embankment and 2 storeys, with an interior patio and cistern. Now restored, you can visit this by requesting the keys from Cocentaina Council. From the vantage point you can see from left to right, La Quebrantà ravine, Albaida pass, Benicadell mountain, La Safor mountains, Beniarrés reservoir, the Sierra de Almudaina, Aitana, La Serreta, el Carrascal de la Font Roja, Els Plans and finally the Pico Negre, a stone spur behind which there are the Monteses and Montcabrer peaks. Cocentaina castle 3 from the mountain in a practice inherited from the Arabs. Then you will head into a dense pine forest with briar, rosemary, buckthorn and as you get higher up, camomile, rabo de gato (Sideritis angustifolia), field eryngo and the Lygos sphaerocarpa shrub. The presence of excrement here indicates the presence of fauna: foxes, field mice, rabbits, etc; it is easy to observe the flight of birds such as the Sardinian warbler, common kestrel or the coal tit. 2 The path links up with a track that leads to a vantage point at the feet of the castle (point 2): a Christian tower dating back to the 13th-14th centuries, built on the remains of an old 10th century Moslem castle, which had some military control over the important route through the surrounding land, as well as offering shelter for the inhabi- Go down to the west along the concreted path between little houses with hawthorn, kermes oak, buckthorn and cat’s claw, mixed in with ornamental species and cultivated terraces; ignore any forks until you come to a path on the left in a pine spinney which forms part of Sant Cristòfol recreation area Chapel [point 3], th erected in the 15 century in a woody zone ideal for a rest. Leave by the car park towards the road, ignoring the fork to the left leading to Les Huit Piletes and continue along the road, around 150 m, until you come to an asphalted track on the right. In a few metres this changes into a path which drops around the hill to the first houses in the village and the Pla de la Font, from which you should go on through the streets of the Vila to the starting point. · El Preventorio (Alcoy): around the former children’s hospital. There are open barbecue facilities, running water, rustic tables, bar with toilets and public swimming pools in summer. · Refugio Les Foietes (Cocentaina): a small recreation area depending on the Centre Excursionista Contestà. · Ermita de Santa Bàrbara (Cocentaina): an area with a thick pine wood around the chapel. The facilities consist of tables, running water and a children’s recreation area. Accessible for people with reduced mobility. · Ermita de Sant Cristòfol (Cocentaina): a shady area in the chapel grounds, with a bar-restaurant, running water, barbecue facilities, tables, toilets and a children’s recreation area. Accessible for people with reduced mobility. · La Querola (Muro d’Alcoi). · Font de Mariola Recreation area (Bocairent): right in the heart of the range. It has tables, barbecue facilities, toilets, running water and controlled camping site (information at 012). · Campamento de Mariola (Bocairent): private. Has a bar-restaurant, camping site and wooden huts. · Santuario de la Mare de Déu d’Agres (Agres): in the higher part of the town. Has a restaurant, running water and rustic tables. Accessible for people with reduced mobility. · Fuente del Molí Mató (Agres): includes the Zamorano shelter (with toilets and a camping site, information at 012) and the surroundings of the natural spring, with tables and barbecue facilities. · Font del Tarragó (Alfafara): a zone with thick pines, with running water, tables, barbecue facilities and a children’s zone. B. Albaich Galán Recreation areas Molí Mató Recreation Area Cuisines The mountain villages all have a rich and varied gastronomy, specialities being: olla stew, borreta filled beans, pericana dried pepper dish and cold meats dressed with herbs. Sweets are also highly appreciated: pastries, coated nuts, sweet potato or almond cakes. The most highly appreciated drink is herbero: anise liquor macerated with herbs and also infusions: timonet, sage, peppermint..., all imbued with this land’s aroma. B. Albiach Galán B. Albiach Galán Agres Font de Mariola Accesses Sierra de Mariola nature reserve covers 7 municipalities: Agres, Alfafara, Alcoy, Banyeres de Mariola, Bocairent, Cocentaina and Muro d’Alcoy. The town and village centres and the roads between them are approximately the boundaries of the range. By road the main access both from Alicante or from Valencia is the N-340 road axis, which communicates Muro d’Alcoy, Cocentaina and Alcoy. To get to Agres and Alfafara Road CV700, is the best way. It is also possible to get here from the CV-81, going through Bocairent and Banyeres. To come to the Information Centre of the Nature Reserve, in Mas d’Ull de Canals, take road CV-795 which joins Alcoy and Banyeres (km. 17.5). The only communication route crossing the range from north to south is the CV794, which links the towns of Bocairent and Alcoy. This road is one of the main accesses to places of special interest such as the Font de Mariola recreation area, located in the heart of the range. The other recreation areas are located in the edges, close to the town and village centres. One very interesting and recommendable alternative is the traditional Valencia-Xàtiva-Alcoy train line, with stops in Agres, Cocentaina and Alcoy, from which you can enjoy the lovely landscapes and settings that this crosses. This is a protected space of superb landscape beauty and great natural and cultural value. In order to keep it for future generations: Always bear in mind the danger of fire. Make fires only in the places specially designed for this and do not drop any cigarette ends. Always pick up any rubbish and waste that you create, to take this back to where it came from. Leave the place where you have been as clean as possible. Keep on your toes and pay attention to all your senses to enjoy your visit to the utmost. Free camping is not allowed: there are controlled areas for this. Follow the paths and tracks as this will help to reduce erosion. Whenever you can try to move on foot, by bicycle or on horse, so as to reduce the contamination and enjoy the landscape more. Respect any animals and plants that you find on your way. If you take your dog with you keep it on a leash at all times to avoid bothering other visitors. Respect private property. It is advisable to take these routes in small groups (from 15 to 20 persons). The best and most enduring souvenir of your trip is doubtlessly a photo. Make responsible use of all the resources. Lastly, in the event of any emergency, call 112. Rules