SOU 3000 - 3099, CG 215 - 224 - n

SOU 3000 - 3099, CG 215 - 224
Bob Harpe © Copyright 2009. All rights reserved.
This cover page created by J.M. LaBoda.
Foreword:
A few quick notes should be mentioned at the start of this clinic to help fill in a little more information.
In addition to the 100 units built for Southern Railway there were 10 units built for Southern subsidiary
Central of Georgia. These units, painted in traditional black and imitation aluminum with gold lettering and
trim stripes, originally carried “CENTRAL OF GEORGIA” lettering on the long hood, and, like the SR units,
lacked the end medallions applied to all second generation locomotives starting in the late-60s even as the
lettering was changed to standard SR practices. Also noteworthy is that four of the CG units, 215, 218, 219
and 224, were built lighter than the rest of the fleet for use on the CofG main east of Macon.
Most, if not all of the details covered in this clinic would be applicable to these units prior to them receiving
the end heralds.
In the late-60s the SR began equipping some of the SD35s with Locontrol equipment so that the units could
operate the mid-train radio control cars and slave locomotives that had begun to be added to many heavier
trains to help convey the heavy tonage on a number of lines. These units received white letterboards to
denote the addition of the Locontrol equipment, though the line was not so quick about replacing these
numberboards once the equipment was removed. Units so equipped were: SOU 3000 – 3012 and 3050 – 3075.
If you are interested in modeling a unit equipped with Locontrol I recommend reviewing Step 20 in the
Southern SD45 clinic. Bob describes how to model the cable and mount for the antenna... the links below are
to shots of SD35s that show how this was laid out on the SD35s.
SOU 3004X - Chattanooga, Tn., 3/31/84. Photo by Chuck Zeiler.
SOU 3010R - Chattanooga, Tn., 3/31/84. Photo by Chuck Zeiler.
This page created by J.M. LaBoda.
This list presents the list of details that I will be using on my model. If you have parts that you'd rather use,
please feel free to do so.
Parts List
Manufacturer
Part No.
Description
Manufacturer
Part No.
Description
American Model
Builders
302
SD35 Window Kit
Details West
Atlas SD35
9260
High Hood SD-35*
Cannon & Co.
1303
1353
1702
1806
1952
2153
2155
Inertial filter screen
Inertial filter hatch
Radiator fans
Ext. range DB door
Exhaust hatch
Kadee
SD jack pads
EMD air reservoirs
Kato
135
139
157
172
187
266
302
305
SR bell
Air filters
Antenna
Frame lights
SR horn
M.U. hoses
Air hoses
Fuel tank
#58
Couplers
959051
Low cyl. sideframes
Custom Finishing
112
Walkway lights
Microscale decals
Detail Associates
1402
1708
2201
2202
2212
2808
Drop steps
Class lights
Lift rings
Grab irons
Coupler lift bar
GE Speed recorder
87-32
87-48
87-540
SR decals Bronze Gold
Builder's plates
SR decal Stripes
Shellscale
113
Numberboard decals
Paints
Odds-n-Ends
Modeler's choice
.012” brass wire
WrightTRAK Models -------
SR M.U. stand
- Atlas produced two different phases of the HH SD35. To get the correct model for the Southern units, make
sure the Atlas box has "Late Grills and large Fuel Tank" on the very end.
[NOTE: As originally presented in the clinic Bob used Brian Banna's Bolster Pads, but these parts are no
longer available. Brian still has the webpage up describing what was done to create the bolster pads, which
can be seen by clicking here.
Sam “HOsam” McCall's website features a page that describes how he adapted the Walthers/LifeLike SD9
trucks and Kato SD45 truck sideframes to the Atlas SD35. Developed by Brian Everett, this is another way of
gaining correct truck sideframes for a Southern Model. To visit this page, just click here. JML]
Step 1.
Begin this project by removing the shell from the chassis and then separating the shell into the four main
sub-assemblies as shown in the scan below.
Now remove all of the Atlas supplied details from these four parts, fans, horn, class lights, handrails, etc.
Step 2.
Now that we've separated our model into four assemblies, let's begin by removing the Atlas turbo hatch so
that we can replace it with the nicer and more detailed Cannon part.
I would suggest that you drill a series of holes on the perimeter of the turbo hatch and then connect them
using a sharp X-ACTO blade making sure you do not cut yourself in the process. For best results, leave at
least 1/8th inch of plastic on all four sides so that you'll have plenty of room to glue the new hatch to. Follow
the Cannon instructions in assembling the new turbo hatch and then glue into place on the DB hatch. Set
aside and allow dry.
Step 3.
Now that we've removed the Atlas turbo hatch and the area is level, let's add the new Cannon part which will
enhance the looks of our model. Construct the Cannon hatch per their instructions and then glue it into
place on the DB hatch and allow to dry.
Step 4.
This next step takes us deeper into the detail phase of our model and also requires a bit more patience since
making a mistake on this step could result in a ruined shell or at least a shell that requires some repair.
As in Step 3, drill a series of small holes around the perimeter of the inertial filter hatch and both of the
inertial filter screens. The more holes you drill and the closer together you drill them will determine how
much effort it requires to remove these parts, but patience and working slow is of paramount importance to
prevent damage to the shell.
The Atlas filter hatch and both fans have molded lines on all four sides and these lines are your reference
points for the amount of plastic that you need to remove so pay close attention to these lines. Notice in the
scan below that we want to leave about an 1/8th" on all sides so as to have room to glue the new part to.
Work slowly!!
Now that the Atlas details are removed, glue the new Cannon parts into place and set aside to dry.
Step 5
In this step we will begin to close the holes that we opened in the previous step.
Carefully install the DB hatch in place along with the cab, but do not glue yet. We just need these parts for
measurements and to make sure we set the inertial filter hatch in place correctly.
Using the Cannon measurements mentioned in their instructions, install the filter hatch in place and glue
from the bottom. Next, glue the two filter screens in place and set this assembly aside to dry.
Step 6
If you plan to use the AMB window set, now is the time to install your windows. Pay attention to the AMB
instructions for installation of these windows as they will only fit into the model one way. After all of the
windows are in place, I suggest that you apply a coat of Future floor wax on the inside edges of each
window.
ONCE the Future has had time to dry, carefully remove the protective paper from each inside window pane
being careful not to scratch the window. DO NOT remove the protective paper from the outside of the glass.
Q? You use the Future to set the windows to the shell?
Two questions: What are the advantages of using the AMB windows over the Atlas ones?
And what glue do you use?
Thanks,
Andrew
A! The AMB windows are a very tight fit from the factory, but I take no chances of them ever falling out by
liberally applying the Future floor wax to the edges of the windows on the inside of the shell and by doing so,
I've never had a single window fall out. The advantage to using the AMB windows is that they are flush
fitting windows which means the outside of the window is flush with the outside of the window frames.
The glue I use is Future floor wax and it is liberally applied to the edges of the windows on the inside of the
shell.
Do not use model cement as it will smear on the windows nor do you want to use a super glue as it may fog
up your windows.
Bob
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Step 7.
If you chose to use the AMB windows, carefully remove the protective paper covering from the insides of
your windows BEFORE you glue the cab to the shell and walkway. If you choose to use the Atlas windows, I
suggest that you do not glue the cab to the shell and walkway.
Glue the shell to the walkway, the DB hatch to the shell and the cab to shell and walkway. This will give us a
one-piece model that will be solid and not come apart. Under the model, remove the center sections of each
locator pin as we will no longer need these pins to hold our model together.
Step 8
In a future step we will replace the Atlas bell with a DW bell and bracket so we now need to fill in the holes
made for mounting the Atlas bell.
I take the Atlas bell, holding it on it's side and using a new #11 blade, carefully slice off the mounting pin
found on the bell housing. Take this pin and push it into the hole on the roof. This pin will provide a nice
tight fit and may now be glued from under the shell.
Step 9
In this step we will install the Cannon DB fans along with the Cannon radiator fans and the extended range
doors. Study the Cannon instructions until you are sure that you understand them completely. These fans
cost too much and are too nice to destroy or install incorrectly. BE SURE to use a hard surface, glass for
example, to remove the grill rings from the frets or you risk the possibility of bending these fragile parts.
I build the fan bases and fans as a unit and then install them onto the model. I then glue the grill rings into
the riser rings and then glue the riser rings onto the fan base assembly. Cannon has not yet released their
36" fans so I took a P2K 36" fan from the scrap box and glued it into the hole between the two radiator fans.
Now is the time to install the Cannon extended range doors to the DB hatch as shown.
Step 10
Gentlemen, for those of you that have never seen a high nose bell from the top side, I am adding a scan that I
took of one of these bells so that you'll have an idea of how one looks and what details are on the top side of
these bells. In the next step, we will attempt to modify a DW bell to look like this one.
Step 10A
In this step we will use the DW high nose bell and will transform it to make it appear more prototypical.
Holding the bell in a pair of pliars and using a cutting disc in your Dremel tool, carefully remove the solid
plate and sand filler found between the two sides of the bell. After you have removed as much as you feel
safe doing, take a new #11 X-ACTO blade and slowly carve and straighten the sides so as to make them
parallel with each other.
Next, cut two triangle gussets from .010” styrene and place one in each corner as seen in the bell found in
step 010.
Next, carefully drill a #80 hole into the fitting found in the top center of your bell. Now, using the scan in
step 010, bend a short piece of .010” brass wire to simulate the air line from the top of the bell to the top of
the shell.
Install the bell onto the roof as shown. Next, install the brass wire air line into the bell top and into the shell
as shown in the scan for this step.
Drill for and install the two DA sand fillers, one on each end of your model.
Step 11
In this step we will add the final top side details to our model.
Install the DW horn, part no. 187, the D.A. lone grab on the high nose, part no. 2202, the D.A. lift rings, part
no. 2206 and the DA curved grab on the long hood, part no. 2217.
Bob and all who are working on this project.
I just want to give some information. The fan grab, the half circle on behind the last radiator fan is 7" off the
fan hatch. The closest to that is 0.080". I use a piece of 0.080" styrene spacer when installing this part,
usually I make my own from 0.010" brass wire.
Brian
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Q? Hey Bob,
Are you planning to get rid of the flash on the bell?
-Andrew
A! I used jewelers files.
I've had to use these D.W. high hood bells on a couple of EJ&E units. My trick is to cut out the bell and clean
out the inside of the bracket where the bell used to be. I use a small chisel to do this. I square up the inside
and clean all the flash off the casting. I then install a Kato bell and the inner triangle brackets as shown in
Bob's photo.
I like the Kato bell. Unfortunately the D.W. bell is sort of out-of-round.
Brian
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Step 12
Install two walkway lights on the engineer's side as shown below.
Install one walkway light on the fireman's side as shown below.
Step 13
If you are modeling the SD-35 after late 1981, you may want to add the Microphor toilet water filler as shown
below. This part comes with the Cannon & Co. high hood kit and this was an extra part that I had left over
from another project. Note the location of the filler and it's relation to the bottom of the engineer's front
window.
Now let's construct the ATS box found on all of the Southern SD-35's and located as an extension of the
engineer's side battery box.
I chose to use some parts from extra Cannon kits that were on hand to construct this box. Cut a .025”
section of part 10 that comes from a Cannon sub-base kit. This gives you walkway tread to match the Atlas
tread. Glue this part to part 5 which comes from the same sub-base kit. Now use a section of .025” x .020”
styrene to fill in the two sides of the ATS box. Allow to dry, sand to fit and then glue the assembly to the end
of the battery box.
Next, remove all four lifting pads from the model and replace them with Cannon & Co. parts 2153.
Now add the DW firecracker antenna and glue in place.
Step 14
Install the DA grab irons, on both ends, as shown in the scan below remembering to leave off the bottom
grab as the Imitation Aluminum stripe will cross this area and we don't want to have to work around any
obstacles when we begin decaling.
Install the Precision Scale ground light just to the very rear of the center hinge on the battery box directly
under the cab. Install the WrightTrak Southern style SD-35 MU connector. Carefully install the two Hi-Tech
Southern style cab shades and now set the model aside to dry.
Step 15A
This next step will be a multi-part step.
I wanted to use several detail parts, air filter, air tanks w/piping, under the body of my SD-35, but the Atlas
SD-35 frame prohibits such work unless we do some fairly simple work with our handy Dremel tool. I also
wanted to use one of the new Athearn fuel tanks, but that would require a good bit of machining work on our
frame and I am not equipped for such at this time. I will move on and use the Atlas fuel tank, but with some
modification.
By following the next set of steps, we should be able to add an air filter, Cannon air tanks, piping and fuel
tank details and still be able to make good use of the Atlas tank.
Using your Dremel tool and wearing safety glasses, remove the metal from the Atlas frame as shown in the
scan below. I used my old Dremel with a couple of cut-off wheels and was able to do what you see below in
about 20 minutes. Take your time and cut slowly being especially careful not to put the cut-off wheels in a
bind as they will break and can do serious damage. Clean up any ragged edges with a small mill file.
Step 15B
Looking at the Atlas tank from the side, remove the extensions that rise up from the inner parts of the tank.
Sand smooth.
Insert the two .080” x .125” blocks as shown in the scan below. These blocks will close the opening left by
the removal of the extenders and also help steady the tank from side to side.
Step 15C
After step 015B is completely dry, slide the tank onto the frame and once in place, drill a small guide hole
through the center of the tank and into the frame. Now remove the tank, drill and tap the frame to accept a
flat head 3/8 x 2/56 screw. Drill the hole in the bottom of the tank so that the 2/56 screw fits through the hole
without binding.
Step 15D
When trying to fit the Cannon air reservoirs between the tank and walkway, I found that the tanks would not
fit properly so to remedy the situation, I cut sections of .020” x .156” styrene strips and glued them into the
bottom of the tank as shown below. This lowered the tank by .020" and now the tanks will fit as they are
supposed to.
Step 15E
Construct the Cannon & Co. air reservoirs according to the instructions found in the kit. When dry, drill each
tank end to accept .024” brass wire piping.
Next, install the tank to the frame and place inside the shell. Mark the walkway at the end of the long hood
end of the tank as this is where the air reservoirs will be positioned.
Next, on the engineer's side cut a length of .020” x .125” styrene the length of the air reservoir and glue
directly under the walkway where the reservoir will sit. This will give you enough plastic to mount the tank
to.
Next, on the fireman's side, cut a section of .080” x .125” styrene, the length of the tank and glue it to the
inside of the shell directly under the walkway making sure the styrene strip is flush with the bottom of the
side sill. This will give support to the tank on this side of the model.
When these strips are completely dry, mount your tanks in the positions that you marked earlier. Both tanks
should be barely visible to the eye when the model is viewed directly from the top. Install the tank onto the
frame and test fit to make sure you can fit the tank into the shell without moving the two air reservoirs.
If the tank fits properly, cut sections of the Plastruct triangle strips and glue into place as added support and
strengthening for the reservoirs.
Next, using the DW air filter, part number 154, file the top of the filter completely flat. Now drill the filter
for .012” brass wire and then glue into place as shown.
Step 15F
Here is the air reservoir glued to the engineer's side of the walkway.
Step 15G
With the air reservoirs mounted and dry, cut sections of brass wire as shown below, bend into shape and
glue into the ends of the reservoirs. This scan is from the engineer's side.
Step 15H
Here is the view of the air reservoir and additional air piping for the fireman's side.
Step 15I
Here is my fuel tank and the detail parts involved. My SD-35 is now ready to head to the paint shop so the
next time you see the model, it's tank and frame, all will be black.
Step 16
This step shows the Southern decals in place and the model has had a coat of Dullcoat applied.
Decaling a well built and nicely detailed model is a detail in it's own right and a detail that needs to be given
lots of thought and attention as decals incorrectly applied will simply destroy the best detailed model. I've
seen guys add detail after detail and then do a poor job of decaling their model which in the end became
simply just another so-so model.
I, whenever possible, prefer to use Microscale decals on all of my models as these decals are printed on high
quality decal paper and each decal is separate from all the rest thus negating the need to cut the decals
from each other.
Let's go thru some of the steps to insure a quality decal job and be on the way to completing another nice
looking model.
First of all, you need photos or scans of your prototype showing the positions of the decals that will be
placed on your model. Do your best to find photos of both sides so that your model is done correctly.
Next, you must have a slick or shiny surface onto which you will be applying your decals. Trying to apply
decals over paints such as Floquil will result in a lot of unnecessary work and poor results.
I always spray a coat of Floquil Glaze to my models just to make sure the surface is slick and shiny.
This step has never failed me. Next, using a one or two oz. bottle, make a solution of Solvaset mixed with
distilled water mixed 50/50. To this solution add a full tablespoon of 70% rubbing alcohol. Be sure to shake
this mixture each time you begin to decal your model.
NOTE: NEVER attempt to decal your model(s) using full strength Solvaset as this product used full strength
will destroy Microscale decals within a few minutes if the decal needs to be repositioned for any reason.
Now, cut your decal from the sheet and place into a bowl of distilled water and allow the decal to begin to
break loose from it's backing. As the decal begins to break loose, using a medium size soft bristle brush,
flood the area where the decal is to be positioned. Now, using a new X-ACTO #11 blade or tweezers, remove
the decal from the bowl and place on the model close to where it's going to rest. If the solution begins to
roll back onto itself, add another spoonful of alcohol to the mixture and be sure to keep plenty of the solution
under the decal.
Once the decal is removed from it's backing and is in place where you want it to be, use the corner of a
paper towel to begin removing any excess solution that surrounds the decal. Move quickly, but smoothly to
make sure your decal is exactly where you want it to be. I suggest using an HO scale ruler to make sure that
the decal is completely straight and level on the model. If the decal needs to be moved slightly and it sticks
to the model, use more of the solution at the point where it's sticking and then attempt to move the decal
into it's place.
This solution, on the model, will evaporate in several minutes and this will allow you to reevaluate the decals
position on the model.
If the decal is where it's supposed to be and the solution has completely dried, move on to the next decal
using the same procedure......... even on the smallest of decals.
The purpose of applying the decal solution before the decal is to allow the solution to begin to soften the
bottom of the decal and to also begin the shrinking step thus driving out the air bubbles that you may
sometimes see when applying your decals.
I usually apply at least two or three applications of the 50/50 mix to make sure that there is no "silvering" of
the decal film and then begin to apply the final two coats of full strength Solvaset. If you find any small
bubbles or if you see any "silvering" if decal film, very carefully open the spot in question using a BRAND
NEW #11 blade or a very sharp needle and then reapplying another coat of the 50/50 mix.
Good light at your work bench is essential to good quality decaling. After I've completed the decal work, I
like to hold my model under a strong light and twist the model in my hand looking for any defects in the
decaling procedure.
Once you are satisfied with the decals, use your favorite Gloss Coat or Flat Coat to seal the decals and
prevent them from being damaged.
[NOTE: For ideas on how to cut up Microscale stripes refer to the other Bob Harpe clinics on the Southern
Modeler website. JML]
Step 17
Atlas equipped all of their high nose SD-35's with the high, three brake cylinder sideframes whereas the
Southern units all were equipped with the low brake cylinder sideframes. I spoke with the Atlas spokesman
and he told me that Atlas had no intention of producing the low cylinder sideframes so I had to take another
route if I was going to have a prototypical model.
I called my good friend Brian Banna who is a whiz with problems such a this one and is also a master when it
comes to using a lathe. I explained how I wanted to use Kato low cylinder trucks, but that the Atlas frame
from the factory would not allow these trucks to be used.
Once I explained my problem, Brian asked me to send him one of the SD-35 frames and he would see what he
could do to solve the problem. Within a couple of hours of receiving the frame, Brian called and said he had
the problem solved. He had milled the Atlas frame and had made aluminum bolsters for which to mount the
Kato low cylinder trucks.
If you desire to use the Kato trucks under your model, contact Brian and make arrangements to get your
frame to him. You will also need a set of the Kato trucks, part no. 959051, and a set of part no. 961500
which is the Kato H worm bearing and joint set.
Once you receive your frame from Brian, install the Atlas motor, Kato trucks and Atlas weights. Rewire the
trucks to the Atlas lightboard. You can reuse the Atlas worm gear and drive shaft, but you'll need the cap
from the 961500 kit to hold the trucks to the frame. Below is a scan of the Atlas SD-35 frame and motor
along with the new low cylinder Kato trucks.
[NOTE: As originally presented in the clinic Bob used Brian Banna's Bolster Pads, but these parts are no
longer available. Brian still has the webpage up describing what was done to create the bolster pads, which
can be seen by clicking here. If you can recommend another way of doing this, please email me so that it
can be added to this clinic.
Sam “HOsam” McCall's website features a page that describes how he adapted the Walthers/LifeLike SD9
trucks and Kato SD45 truck sideframes to the Atlas SD35. Developed by Brian Everett, this is another way of
gaining correct truck sideframes for a Southern Model. To visit this page, just click here. JML]
Step 18
Completed Model Here is a shot of the completed model.