the full account

First impressions at Appleby 2008
Margaret Barrett and Pat Holland,
Support for Learning staff with a remit of Gypsy/Traveller education, visited
the Appleby Horse Fair for the first time.
Appleby Horse Fair has been taking place since 1685 when James II granted
its Charter, but this was our first visit. As two seconded teachers with a remit
of Gypsy/Traveller education, we were keen to experience Traveller culture
and the sights, sounds and smells didn’t disappoint! As the car rounded a bend in the road, the thrilling sight of Fair Hill covered
with hundreds of caravans met us. We parked the car in knee-high grass and
made our way past an encampment of horse-drawn caravans and campfires,
towards all the activity. Having taken care to dress casually, we were
disappointed to find that we didn’t ‘blend in‘ and were soon approached to
‘Buy some white heather darling? You’ve got a lucky face.’
The fortune tellers’ signs fascinated us, however we were more interested in
looking round the stalls selling all manner of items needed for the travelling
life - metal water cans, trivets for hanging over wood fires, Versace, Chanel
and Minton dinner sets for around £160, baby stalls selling designer dummies
and embroidered pram sets, young people selling possibly fake CDs, stalls
selling horse tack. A van selling Royal Crown Derby ware drew a crowd
admiring plates at £399 and a crystal lamp for £1000. Having brought money
to spend at the fair, we soon realised that much of the stock was beyond our
means.
The main point of the Fair seemed to be display. From the teenage girls in
acid pink skirts to the young men, their shirts off in the sunshine, riding and
trotting their horses along Flashing Lane, everyone was aware of the
impression they were making. Travellers greeted folk they hadn’t seen for a
year and caught up on news ‘ ….aye, he’s in Denmark just now, but he’s
coming over tomorrow…’
Down by the river, we had a picnic and watched as the horses were taken into
the river to be washed and ridden bareback by fearless young men and
women.
Younger boys enjoyed fishing and swimming fully clothed as their fathers
watched from the riverbank with a pint. The atmosphere was relaxed - we
heard no swearing or arguing. The RSPCA were keeping a close watch but
maintaining a low profile – one officer had a miniature camera behind his ear,
enabling him to record any events to a small screen in his pocket. And everywhere the smell of horses competed with the aromas from the
burger vans and chip fryers. Local residents set up stalls in their garages and
front gardens to sell food and cold drinks to passers-by. Toddlers in buggies
dripped ice-cream down beautifully smocked dresses.
From a Health and Safety point of view, the event was an eye opener. Several
times we saw men driving carts up and down the hill into Appleby whilst
holding their toddlers or babies on their lap. It paid to have eyes in the back of
your he ad as horses of every breed and size were walked through the crowd.
Luckily the weather was fine and sunny – it would have been a different
experience entirely on a wet day. We reluctantly left mid-afternoon, before it
was necessary to use one of the omnipresent blue portaloos, but look forward
to another visit next year!
Margaret Barrett Pat Holland