Central Otago Pinot Noir

PANEL TASTING
Central Otago Pinot Noir
In the past 25 years, this region has become the New World standard for Pinot Noir.
Bob Campbell MW looks at the key sub-regions and styles and the wines’ ageability
Central Otago winemakers are an ever-changing
breed. The original pioneer was a Frenchman, Jean Désiré
Feraud, who bravely planted vines there in 1864. Feraud
was followed in the 1970s and ’80s by a few adventurous
locals who experimented with a range of varieties and sites,
proving the area could support viticulture. Professional
viticulturists and winemakers then moved in, proving that
Central Otago could make very good wine, especially Pinot
Noir. Next came the investors and ‘lifestyle’ seekers who
tested the economic viability of the region. The most recent
stakeholders are producers from other regions, such as
Cloudy Bay, Pernod Ricard (Brancott Estate) and Craggy
Range, seeking to add an Otago Pinot to their portfolios.
To fully understand the seduction of this region, you
need to visit. It’s New Zealand’s only continental-influenced
wine region and the alpine landscape is spectacular. Even to
the untrained eye it looks like wine country. The rocky
terrain offers fertile valleys, sun-drenched slopes and
terraced hillsides perfect for high quality wine production.
New Zealand
wine regions
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Wairarapa
Nelson
Marlborough
Canterbury
Central Otago
Map: Maggie Nelson
Bob Campbell MW is the Decanter World Wine Awards
Regional Chair for New Zealand
N
Lake
Wanaka
Wellington
1
2
6
3
Tasman
Sea
Queenstown
5
Lake
Wakalipu
Christchurch
SOUTH
ISLAND
Alexandra
CENTRAL
OTAGO
6A
Central Otago
sub-regions
1
2
3
4
5
6
Wanaka
Bendigo
Cromwell Basin
Gibbston Valley
Bannockburn
Alexandra Basin
8A
89
NEW
ZEALAND
6
89
Lake
Dunstan
4
Lowburn
6
2
8
Bendigo
3
Cromwell
5
6
Bannockburn
0
Tarras
Pisa
Gibbston
Valley
Queenstown
6
1 Wanaka
4
Arrowtown
Distinctive style
It has taken little more than 25 years for Central Otago Pinot
Noir to become an internationally recognised style. To
achieve that distinction a wine style must be very good,
consistent and, most importantly, distinctively different.
The strongest characteristics of Central Otago Pinot Noir
are impressive fruit density with flavours in the plum and
cherry end of the spectrum. Wines often pick up some
thyme characters from the herb that grows wild over the
countryside. A rich and often silken texture is common.
The sub-regions that tend to produce wines closest to
that stereotype are Bannockburn and the Cromwell Basin.
The medium- and high-elevation terraces of Bendigo offer a
similar profile, with finer, sleeker textures. Gibbston and
Wanaka are cooler sub-regions with crisper, brighter wines
that can have a fresh herb note while the short, hot summers
in the Alexandra Basin tend to create tighter, bonier, more
perfumed and often impressively long-lived wines.
Compared to the wines of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, Central
Otago’s are softer, fruitier, fleshier and more accessible. It is
difficult to identify another New World style that comes
close, though I have mistaken the more restrained styles of
Pinot Noir from Tasmania in Australia for Central Otago.
Central Otago Pinot Noir is normally so deliciously
accessible on release that it is easy to assume it won’t age
gracefully. It’s hard to talk authoritatively about the wine’s
ageing potential because it has such a short history since
most producers adopted the currently preferred screwcap
closure about eight years ago. Screwcaps extend, but don’t
appear to compromise, the bottle life of Pinot Noir. I would
speculate that most will still be good to drink after 20 years
in bottle, given reasonable storage conditions.
More structured wines, especially those made using a
percentage of whole bunches to bolster skin tannins during
fermentation, appear to gain in complexity as well as texture
with bottle age. The more luscious fruit-bomb styles seem
to remain in limbo, with less to be gained through cellaring.
NORTH
ISLAND
10 20 30 40 50
kilometres
Central Otago
vineyards
8
6
Clyde
Alexandra
Central Otago: know your vintages
2012
Large and consistently good
vintage. Approachable now but will keep.
2011
Above average crop. Some rain.
Quite structured wines that will cellar.
2010 Very good vintage producing
many excellent wines. Good now but no
rush to drink these up.
2007 Highly rated vintage, perhaps
the best to date. Small crop. Elegant,
fruity wines with power. Ageing well.
2006
A hot, dry season produced
mostly charming, accessible wines.
2005 Very small, cool vintage. Firm,
structured wines that needed cellaring.
2009
2004 Coolest vintage to date (until
2008
2003 Good vintage hit by late frosts.
Excellent wines often with
pronounced fruit flavours. On par with
the great 2007 vintage.
Largest vintage on record.
Mostly good wines although some
dilution if affected by late rain.
2005). Tight, structured and often
slightly herbal wines.
Variable wines mostly with ageing
potential.
Central Otago: the facts
Pinot Noir vines in production in Central Otago 1,357ha (76% of the region’s vineyard area)
Pinot Noir vines in production in New Zealand 5,125ha
Grapes harvested (all varieties) 8,407 tonnes
Producers 124 wineries, 33 grape growers ➢
SOURCES: NZ Winegrowers Annual Report 2013; Vineyard Register Report 2012
D E C A N T E R • J a n u a r y 2 014 | 8 3
Central Otago Pinot Noir
PANEL TASTING
The results
Based on the statistics, New Zealand’s star Pinot Noir region again excelled, but our expert judges were
left wanting more fireworks. Christelle Guibert analyses their views on vintages and sub-regional identity
With more than 95% of the wines recommended, this is a
great achievement for New Zealand’s flagship Pinot Noir
region. However, despite the positive result, our panel left
the tasting room disappointed. ‘The overall quality was
there but we just wanted more – our expectations were a lot
higher than the results,’ said Melanie Brown.
Philip Tuck MW explained: ‘From a winemaking point of
view, New Zealanders are very good technicians – some of
the best in the world – and they don’t need to improve. The
improvement is going to come from better understanding
of their vineyards as the vines get older.’
Roger Jones felt Central Otago producers were resting
on their laurels. ‘Two or three years ago, they were the
kingpins; the first to challenge Burgundy. If you wanted a
decent Burgundian style from the New World, this was the
place. But having tasted Australian Pinots from Victoria and
Tasmania earlier this year at a Decanter panel tasting
(August 2013 issue), Central Otago needs to wake up,
because everyone else is catching up.’
Tuck added: ‘Central Otago is clearly a serious region
when producers can overcome the natural problems of
wind and frost. But Marlborough, year in, year out, is also
‘Central Otago needs to wake
up, because everyone else is
catching up’ Roger Jones
pretty serious with its Pinot and, in my mind, much more
consistent.’ While Jones would pick Mornington Peninsula
over Central Otago for New World Pinot, Tuck said that
outside Burgundy and Germany, New Zealand still offered
the best examples and, with even greater vine age, the
wines would get increasingly better.
Our trio of experts found that the best wines from this
tasting combined great freshness and high acidity
complemented by powerful fruit and moderate alcohol,
which gave them a real drinkability factor. ‘All our
recommended wines will make great food companions,’
said Tuck. They all have a nice acidity and excellent use of
oak. Nothing was over oaked or over concentrated – they
weren’t too sweet or jammy.’ The best wines for Jones were
the delicate and more controlled, Burgundian styles.
The scores
90 wines tasted
5
Outstanding
32
Highly recommended
49
Recommended
4
Fair
0
Poor
0
Faulty
In terms of sub-regional character, the judges
struggled to pinpoint any definition. Brown felt
this may come back to the youth of the vines.
‘Over time, they’ll develop their own identities,’
she said. She and Tuck found Bannockburn to be
the standout area but Jones disagreed: ‘The
wines were balanced, but I was expecting a bit of
guts, a bit of texture. My highlights were Lowburn
and Cromwell. They were silkier and more
seductive while Bendigo showed less perfume
but more plummy and spiced characters.’
Despite different preferences in sub-regions,
all three were unanimous in agreeing that 2012
was the best vintage, closely followed by 2010.
Brown described the 2012s as ‘juicy and fleshy
with fruit purity and concentration’ while she
recommended that all but the highest-scoring
2011s and 2009s should be drunk up now.
Tuck said he’d ‘wholeheartedly recommend
these wines’; however, he and his fellow judges
felt that Central Otago producers need to be
wary of their increasingly high prices and that
perhaps they should focus on the domestic
market rather than export. He explained: ‘These
are small vineyards that don’t produce very much
wine, so you don’t have economies of scale. As
good as these wines are, they’re not going to
easily compete in the UK with the prestige
offered by Burgundy, plus other New World wine
regions are fast upping their game.’
Entry criteria:
Producers and UK
agents were invited
to submit their
latest release wines
from Central Otago
in New Zealand
A New Zealand native, Brown completed her
chef apprenticeship in Christchurch, before
moving to the UK in 2005. She joined New
Zealand chef Peter Gordon in the kitchen at
The Providores and Tapa Room in 2006. She
soon discovered her love of New Zealand
wine and in 2009 took over managing the
restaurant’s wine list. It now features the
largest selection of premium New Zealand
wines in Europe.
Brown’s verdict
‘Central Otago’s five distinct sub-regions are slowly developing their own
identities as the wines and vineyards evolve. My highlight was
Bannockburn, as these wines showed great richness, depth and complexity.
Of the others, Alexandra presented some lighter examples with good fruit
purity, to Cromwell and Lowburn’s more seductive styles, right through to
Bendigo’s intense and powerful Pinot Noirs.
‘The 2012 vintage is showing luscious fruit concentration and intensity
thanks to a long dry autumn. As these wines begin to age, I feel it will be one
of the strongest vintages to come from this region.
‘Central Otago producers need to ensure that they continue making
exemplary examples of Pinot Noir, and not to get caught in the trap of
over-producing and under-delivering. There’s such a high expectation of
the wines from here that when an example falls short or another region
begins to make wines of better quality and value, there are concerns that
Central Otago may lose its strong identity as the first region to rival
Burgundy in its Pinot Noir production.’
8 4 | J a n u a r y 2 014 • D E C A N T E R
Gibbston Valley 2012
Decanter average score: 18.75/20pts 95+/100pts)
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 19 Roger Jones 19 Philip Tuck 18.5
£26.99 (2009) Hard to Find Wines
Gibbston Valley is one of Central Otago’s oldest wine producers, with its
first commercial release in 1987. It has seven vineyards: two in the Gibbston
sub-region and five in the Bendigo sub-region. This wine is a blend, with
70% of the grapes from warmer Bendigo and 30% from Gibbston. The
favourable 2012 vintage produced a wine with slightly lower alcohol than
the normal 14%. That may have contributed to a style with more restrained
fruit and more obvious mineral and savoury character. The wine was
allowed five to six weeks’ maceration on the skins and was aged for 11
months in French barriques, 25% new.
Melanie Brown The nose is full of crushed berries with warm spices, which
follow through on to the palate, along with nice tannins. The finish is
seamless with aromatic floral notes. This is fresh, gripping, stalky goodness.
Roger Jones Savoury on the nose with hints of stalk and lovely perfume,
which evolves into a stunning, delicate and feminine wine. You just want to
drink this!
Philip Tuck Lifted concentration on the nose, which is clean and pure.
Lovely fruit flavours on the palate with real concentration and balance
without being heavy. Fresh grip on the finish adds a touch of class. This is a
very long and elegant wine.
The tasters’ verdicts
Melanie Brown
Outstanding 18.5–20pts (95–100pts)
Drink 2014–2018 Alcohol 13.5%
Roger Jones
Jones is chef/owner of the Michelin-starred
restaurant The Harrow at Little Bedwyn,
whose wine list of 1,000 bins features
numerous New Zealand Pinot Noirs. Jones
works with Westminster and Swindon
Catering Colleges, consults to corporates,
and is a Fellow of The Master Chefs of Great
Britain, sitting on its executive committee.
Jones’ verdict
‘I had high expectations of this Central
Otago Pinot Noir tasting but must say that,
in general, the wow factor was not there. The wines were somewhat heavy
in style, lacking the freshness of both New Zealand’s Marlborough or
Martinborough regions or, dare I say it, Mornington Peninsula in Australia.
‘Central Otago has traditionally been all about plum, cherry and spice,
but I find customers are seeking more food-friendly wines which show a
more feminine touch. Many of the younger Pinots we tasted may develop
and soften with age, but at this stage most were too leafy or rich. Some
winemakers are trying to go for a more Burgundian style, which of course
will please some readers and frustrate those used to the traditional style.
My comments might seem harsh but when you’ve been at top of the
class, as Central Otago has been with its Pinot Noir, you need to keep hitting
highs, especially with all the new up-and-coming Pinot regions around the
World competing with you. It’s no longer Burgundy vs Central Otago.
‘However, to finish on a positive, the top-scoring wines were excellent,
offering both savoury and delicate sweetness on the finish, structure and
layers – perfect wines to enjoy with food.’
Philip Tuck MW
Tuck started in the wine industry in 1986
when he joined Averys in Bristol. From
there, he spent time working for wineries
in various countries including New
Zealand. He returned to the UK in 1993 to
help set up wine agency Hatch Mansfield,
where he is currently wine director. He
became a Master of Wine in 1999.
Tuck’s verdict
‘Given Central Otago’s reputation, I was
not surprised to see such consistency
across the board. There were very few really disappointing wines given
the ease with which Pinot Noir can disappoint. I was very impressed with
those wines from the 2012 vintage and from Bannockburn.
‘From a viticultural and technical winemaking aspect, New Zealand
has always been excellent – another reason for its success with this often
fickle variety. The future is surely positive as the vines age, understanding
of the clones improves and lessons are learned from a greater bank of
past vintages. Yields are often kept naturally low here and this showed in
the impressive concentration of the best wines.
‘I was also heartened that the general level of alcohol did not impinge
on the wines’ elegance. Very few seemed overly hot or clumsy which not
only adds to their elegance but also gives them a distinct advantage
when competing against many other areas of the New World.
My advice to producers would be to continue in their uncompromising
approach on quality. Central Otago is not a place to make tanker loads
of insipid Pinot Noir. There are many small producers here, so the only
way to maximise their returns is to offer great quality.’
Pisa Range Estate, Black Poplar Block, Pisa 2010
18.75 (95+) MB 18.5 RJ 18.5 PT 19
£49.92 Charles Mitchell
For many, this is a Pinot Noir that sums up all that is best about Central
Otago. Vine age approaching 20 years has contributed to the pungent
aroma and impressively dense and sumptuous texture. The vineyard is in
Pisa, adjacent to the Cromwell Basin – the heartland of the Central Otago
wine region. Each clone of Pinot Noir is harvested separately for optimum
ripeness. The wine was aged in French oak barriques. For a long time after
the first vintage of the Pinot Noir was released in 2000, owners Warwick
and Jenny Hawker produced only Pinot Noir, although they have recently
released a Riesling and Pinot Gris.
MB This is rich with very pretty aromatics and then juicy berries and an
intense floral flavour. A good backbone makes this vibrant and it has a
lovely finish.
RJ A touch of liquorice on the nose is nice with the intense fruit flavours.
This is rich with a touch of confection and is a very pleasant wine to drink.
PT Lovely nose with real complexity and style, especially regarding the use
of oak. It has a fabulous silky texture and perfect tannic grip. This is superb,
albeit in a rich and overt style
Drink 2014–2016 Alc 14%
➢
D E C A N T E R • J a n u a r y 2 014 | 8 5
Central Otago Pinot Noir
Outstanding (continued) 18.5–20pts (95–100pts)
Gibbston Valley, China Terrace, Bendigo 2012
18.5 (95) MB 18.5 RJ 18.5 PT 18.5
£37.99 (2009) Hard to Find Wines
With two wines in this top five Outstanding list, Gibbston Valley is clearly
the star of the show. Surprisingly, its flagship Reserve Pinot Noir and highly
rated School House Pinot Noir missed the cut, although both earned a
Highly Recommended honours (see p89). China Terrace is a high-altitude
(320m), high-performing vineyard in the warm Bendigo sub-region. It’s a
serious Pinot Noir that doesn’t conform to the Central Otago fruit-bomb
stereotype but is an altogether sleeker and more savoury style, with a firm
structure, thanks in part to the use of some whole cluster bunches in the
fermentation to boost tannins. Although the wine can certainly be
appreciated now, as the judges will testify, its best years lie ahead.
MB Good weight and structure with a silky texture but power too, which is
all held together with dark, juicy fruits. Very enticing.
RJ The savoury nose gives way to a long, lingering palate of delicate fruit
and an amazing floral and spicy length. This tastes well developed now but
will get even better.
PT Lovely purity and complexity on the nose. This is impressive and very
enticing. Will age well.
Kalex Wines 2011 18.5 (95) MB 18.5 RJ 18.5 PT 18.5
N/A UK www.kalexwines.com
US-based owner Alex Kaufman describes himself as a ‘businessman,
entrepreneur and survivor’. He fell in love with New Zealand when he visited
the country in 1998, and his passion for wine encouraged him to make wine
in Central Otago. Kalex Pinot Noir blends wines from growers in several
sub-regions – in this case the wine is made from grapes grown in Bendigo,
Bannockburn, Pisa and Gibbston. Vine age, favourable aspects and soil
quality are important factors in site selection. The wine was left, unusually,
to macerate on the skins for up to three months before it was pressed and
racked to barrels. This wine was bottled without fining or filtration.
MB Blackcurrant with chocolate and spice adds another dimension to this
wine. The savoury mushroom nuances on the palate, as well as the layer of
various aromatics, make for great drinking.
RJ The different fruit layers are lovely and delicate, giving a stunning wine.
This wine will evolve over the years but is drinking well now too.
PT Classy and complex nose with real depth and concentration. Very
impressive. The palate is silky and fresh with length and good grip. I couldn’t
fault this wine.
Drink 2014–2018 Alc 13.8%
Drink 2014–2018 Alc 14%
Nanny Goat Vineyard, Super Nanny 2012
18.5 (95) MB 18.5 RJ 18.5 PT 18.5
N/A UK www.nannygoatvineyard.co.nz
This limited-production wine is made from a selection of the best small
parcels of superior grapes in favourable vintages. The grapes hail from the
Bannockburn district, an area generally recognised as Central Otago’s
’sweet spot’. Hand-picked grapes were carefully sorted and fermented
using 12% to 15% whole bunches for extra tannin and complexity. The wine
was aged for 15 months in French oak barriques, including 40% new barrels.
The difference in both quality and style between this Super Nanny and the
winery’s regular label (see p92) is considerable. Obviously the major factor
is meticulous grape selection but the wine has also been given the Rolls
Royce treatment from vineyard to bottle. The result certainly justifies
considerable effort.
‘All our recommended
wines will make great food
companions. They all have
a nice acidity and excellent
use of oak. They weren’t too
sweet or jammy’ Philip Tuck MW
MB Freshly crushed berries with spice and a soft oak structure makes for an
exciting taste. It’s rich with a lingering and silky finish.
RJ A savoury nose with a thick palate texture and lots of lingering black
fruit. It has lovely balance and well-integrated alcohol.
PT Floral and somewhat citric nose, which is lifted. This is easy to enjoy for
its purity and fruitiness. The texture is that of silk but with a fine grippy
finish. Very attractive and extremely well made.
Drink 2014–2018 Alc 14.2% ➢
D E C A N T E R • J a n u a r y 2 014 | 8 7
Central Otago Pinot Noir
PANEL TASTING
Highly Recommended
Wooing Tree, Beetle Juice,
Cromwell 2012 18.25 (94)
MB 18 RJ 18 PT 18.5
£21.65–£22.50 Butlers, Cheddar Vine, Gerrard
Seel, Slurp, Wines of Interest
Fresh and delicate nose with real Burgundian
style, which makes it attractive and enticing.
Aromatic and fruity palate gives way to a rich,
satisfying finish. Drink 2014–2016 Alc 14.5%
Highly Recommended (continued)
17–18.25pts (90–94pts)
8 Ranges, Barrel Selection, 2010
17.75 (92) MB 18.5 RJ 17.5 PT 17.5
Felton Road, Cornish Point,
Bannockburn 2012 17.75 (92)
Lowburn Ferry, Home Block 2010
N/A UK www.8ranges.co.nz
MB 17 RJ 18.5 PT 18
£26.99 Black Dog Wine Agency
The Secret Cellar, Woodwinters
£24–£29.99 Alliance Wine, Carruthers & Kent
Lovely briary and earthy complexity with cherries
and plums backing it up. This has aged very well
and is an excellent example of Central Otago
Pinot Noir. An amazing food wine.
Drink 2014–2018 Alc 14%
Delicate, nutty nose with some floral notes.
Well-rounded body with good structure and
many layers of fruit. The finish is silky leaving
memories of cherry compote. Quite pleasing.
Drink 2014–2015 Alc 14%
Gently floral nose with vibrant red fruits and a
seductive and harmonious structure. The palate
is savoury with a feminine style. Attractive with
good concentration and depth. Drink 2014–2016
Alc 14%
Some attractive development has given great
complexity to this wine. It’s savoury with a bit of
spice, and clean, fresh flavours on the palate. The
finish is concentrated and fruity. Drink 2014–2016
Alc 13.7%
Invivo, Reserve, Bannockburn
2012 17.75 (92) MB 17.5 RJ 18 PT 18
N/A UK www.invivowines.com
Mount Edward, Morrison Vineyard,
Lowburn 2011 17.75 (92) MB 16 RJ 19 PT 18
£34–£43.99 Alliance Wine, Carruthers & Kent
Classy nose of generous rhubarb and savoury
spices makes this very complex. The oak is well
balanced with generous fruit throughout the
palate. This is stunning on its own or with food.
Drink 2014–2016 Alc 14%
Savoury, spiced aromatic nose followed by a
silky, lingering palate that is quite generous and
satisfying. Lots of good grip and freshness makes
this a fantastic drink or great with food.
Drink 2014–2015 Alc 13.5%
Bannock Burn Creek Vineyard,
Tatty Bogler 2010
Felton Road, Bannockburn 2012
£30–£47.50 Cozzi & Boffa, Cornish Point Wines,
Harvey Nichols, Hawkshead, Howard Ripley, Stone Vine &
Sun, The Secret Cellar, The Solent Cellar, Woodwinters
Classic nose of dark cherries and rose blossom,
which gives way to a lovely mouthfeel of velvety
red berries. The aromatics linger on the palate
making this a classy wine. Drink 2014–2020
Alc 14.5%
Rippon, Mature Vine, Lake Wanaka
2010 17.75 (92) MB 17 RJ 18.5 PT 17.5
£24(ib)–£29.95 Berry Bros & Rudd,
Lea & Sandeman
A slightly shy nose with hints of black fruit. Lots
of spice and tannin on the palate with multiple
layers of fruit and a very delicate finish. Very
impressive length with subtle floral notes.
Drink 2014–2017 Alc 14%
N/A UK www.forrestwines.co.nz
£25–£39.50 widely available through distributor
Felton Road, Block 3, Bannockburn
2012 17.5 (91) MB 17.5 RJ 17 PT 18
£495–£74.95 widely available through distributor
Cornish Point Wines
Cornish Point Wines
A good, well-balanced Pinot Noir with silky
textures and fruits that evolve in the mouth.
There are hints of spice and some tannin, which
will allow this to continue ageing, but is certainly
drinking well now. Drink 2014–2020 Alc 14%
Youthful and concentrated with pronounced
violets and intense red fruit. This has lots of
crunchy berry fruit with a good structure and
length. Impressive purity and very fresh.
Drink 2014–2018 Alc 14%
Lovely nose of dark fruit and chocolate. The
palate is concentrated with the chocolate
coming through which is accented by liquorice.
Good tannin structure and excellent balance.
Drink 2014–2020 Alc 14%
Felton Road, Calvert, Bannockburn
2012 17.5 (91) MB 16.5 RJ 18 PT 18
£30.50–£36 widely available through distributor
Folding Hill, Orchard Block,
Bendigo 2010 17.5 (91) MB 17 RJ 17.5 PT 18
£30 The Butlers Wine Co, The Secret Cellar,
Judge Rock, Alexandra 2012
17.5 (91) MB 18 RJ 17 PT 17.5
17.5 (91) MB 17.5 RJ 17 PT 18
Cornish Point Wines
Woodwinters
Subtly complex and very enticing gentle
bouquet. The palate has a solid oak foundation
but is still fresh and attractive. An aftertaste of
admirable length. Drink 2014–2020 Alc 14%
Subtle complexity with impressive depth and
richness moving to layers of texture and
creaminess on the palate. Lots of spice and plum
make this a real taste sensation. Drink 2014–2015
Alc 14%
8 8 | J a n u a r y 2 014 • D E C A N T E R
N/A UK www.judgerock.co.nz
17.5 (91) MB 18.5 RJ 17 PT 17
Concentrated dark fruit with marzipan and cherry
notes giving way to a well-structured palate of
delicate fruit and subtle oak. A luscious finish of
subtle oak complexity. Drink 2014–2017 Alc 13.2%
17.5 (91) MB 17 RJ 17.5 PT 18
Tarras Vineyards, The Canyon,
Bendigo 2009 17.5 (91)
MB 16.5 RJ 17.5 RJ 18.5
£24.95 City Beverage
Violet and earthy aromas with some herbal notes.
The palate is deeply impressive with just enough
acidity to give freshness and drinkability. It has a
nice weight and some richness with a very long
finish. Excellent. Drink 2014–2016 Alc 14%
Maude 2011 17.5 (91) MB 18.5 RJ 17.5 PT 16.5
£21.99–£29.95 Boutinot, Bentleys, D Byrne & Co,
17–18.25pts (90–94pts)
‘The overall quality
was there but we just
wanted more – our
expectations were a
lot higher than the
results’ Melanie Brown
Mount Edward 2011 17.5 (91)
MB 18 RJ 18 PT 16.5
8 Ranges, Trail Rider 2011 17.25 (90+)
MB 18.5 RJ 17.5 PT 16
N/A UK www.8ranges.co.nz
A pristine nose of bright, red fruit. This wine is
vibrant and focused in a medium-bodied style,
with finely grained tannins and a good backbone.
A fine finish with lingering notes of rhubarb
crumble. Drink 2014–2016 Alc 13%
£22.95 OW Loeb
£23 The Vintner
Ceres, Composition, Bannockburn
2010 17.25 (90+) MB 17 RJ 17 PT 17.5
N/A UK www.cereswines.co.nz
Perfumed and fruity nose with cassis and
blackberry leading into a rich and luscious palate
of vanilla, plum and blackberry crumble. The
mouthfeel is silky with great balance and
intensity. A lovely, fruity finish. Drink 2014–2019
Alc 14%
Ripe cherry nose with hints of rose petals. Good
concentration on the palate with flavours of
liquorice and a savoury herb nuances. This is a
gutsy yet balanced Pinot with excellent grip.
Drink 2014–2018 Alc 13.5%
Subtle but nicely complex and not at all
overstated. Savoury and cherry palate with great
fruit purity and freshness. This is a delight with
nice balance and a controlled fruity, juicy finish.
Drink 2014–2015 Alc 14%
Gibbston Valley, Reserve 2012 17.25
Gibbston Valley, School House,
Bendigo 2012 17.25 (90+)
£37.99 (2008) Hard to Find Wines
MB 16.5 RJ 18 PT 17.5
Akarua, Bannockburn 2012
17.25 (90+) MB 17 RJ 18 PT 17
Forrest Wines, John Forrest
Collection, Bannockburn 2010
17.25 (90+) MB 17 RJ 17.5 PT 17.5
£16 (2011) Adnams
Very floral style with some spicy and savoury
notes. The palate is well structured with definite
concentration and poise, and flavours of plum
and crushed floral notes. A long and elegant
finish. Drink 2014–2020 Alc 13.5%
Archangel 2012 17.25 (90+)
MB 17 RJ 17 PT 18
(90+) MB 17.5 RJ 17.5 PT 17
Quite bold and powerful with herbal and floral
aromas. The palate is luscious with intense cherry
and sweet plum fruit without being overripe. This
is a crowd-pleaser with a great finish. Drink
2014–2019 Alc 14%
£37.99 (2009) Hard to Find Wines
Lashings of attractive spicy perfume with floral
and fruit aromas. The palate is rich and textured
with amazing concentration and a judicious use
of oak. A plum and a savoury finish makes this a
great food wine. Drink 2014–2018 Alc 14% ➢
D E C A N T E R • J a n u a r y 2 014 | 8 9
Central Otago Pinot Noir
PANEL TASTING
Highly Recommended (continued)
17–18.25pts (90–94pts)
Grasshopper Rock, Earnscleugh
Vineyard, Alexandra 2011 17.25 (90+)
Nevis Bluff, Pisa 2010 17.25 (90+)
Supper Club 2012 17.25 (90+)
MB 16.5 RJ 18 PT 17
MB 18 RJ 16 PT 17.5
MB 17.5 RJ 16.5 PT 18
N/A UK www.nevisbluff.co.nz
N/A UK www.supperclubwines.com
Distinctly spicy on the nose with judicious use of
good oak. The body is voluptuous with rich, dark
fruits and nicely rounded tannins. This is a perfect
match for fine food and is drinking well now.
Drink 2014–2015 Alc 13.5%
Attractive floral lift with dark cherry complexity
and a savoury mushroom edge. Excellent texture
and overall balance with intense concentration
and very good length. Drink 2014–2015 Alc 13.5%
£19 Naked Wines
A soft, delicately perfumed nose of violets and
black plums. The palate is beautifully balanced
with real old-vine concentration, leading to an
excellent finish. A finely structured wine indeed.
Drink 2014–2016 Alc 13.6%
Tarras Vineyards, The Steppes,
2009 17.25 (90+) MB 17.5 RJ 17 PT 17
N/A UK www.tarrasvineyards.com
Lovely intensity on the nose of ripe berries with
some class. A certainly subtlety on the midpalate with lots of lovely flavours mingling
together. A balanced finish but tasting as though
it is mature now. Drink 2014–2015 Alc 13.5%
Terra Sancta, Slapjack Block,
Bannockburn 2011 17.25 (90+)
Valli, Bannockburn 2012 17.25 (90+)
MB 16 RJ 18 PT 17.5
£49.99 Armit
N/A UK www.terrasancta.co.nz
Very fine aromatics and a soft delicate perfume
that evolves in the mouth. Stunning textures and
flavours of fruit with great freshness and
complexity. This is long and satisfying.
Drink 2014–2018 Alc 14.2%
MB 16.5 RJ 17.5 PT 17.5
Floral scent with that delicate perfume coming
through on the palate. Hints of greengage
plums and white cherries with a distinct floral
kick on the finish with earthy undertones.
Drink 2014–2018 Alc 13.5%
Wooing Tree, Sandstorm Reserve,
Cromwell 2010 17.25 (90+)
Akarua, Rua, 2012 17 (90)
MB 17 RJ 17.5 PT 17.5
£16.50–£21 Harvey Nichols, OW Loeb & Co, The
£18.95–£22 Carruthers & Kent, Liberty Wines, Slurp
Solent Cellar
Muted, but with plenty of underlying power. This
is delicate, elegant and fulfilling. A complex wine
with savoury and spicy tannins that linger with a
concentration of dark, vanilla-scented plums.
Drink 2014–2015 Alc 13.8%
£55.95–£56.50 Seckford, Slurp, The Wine Cellar,
The Drinkshop
Complex nose without being overly fruity or
floral. Soft and seductive silky mouthfeel with a
vanilla note. The palate is well structured with
sufficient concentration and weight to keep quite
well. Drink 2014–2020 Alc 14%
Recommended
MB 17 RJ 18.5 PT 15.5
A touch of toasted chocolate croissant on the
nose with a silky texture and good fruit
concentration on the palate. A real lively acidity
with impressive concentration and a very
berry-rich finish. Drink 2014–2015 Alc 14%
Wild Earth Vineyards, Pisa 2010
17 (90) MB 17 RJ 17 PT 17
15–16.75pts (83–89pts)
Recommended (continued)
15–16.75pts (83–89pts)
Wine
Score MB
RJ
PT
Tasting note
Drink Price
Stockists
Terra Sancta, Jackson's Block,
Bannockburn 2011
16.75
(89)
16
16
18
Rich exciting characters of chocolate, coupled with dark fruits, spice and
14%
vanilla. Nicely rounded and mellow – no hard edges. This is silky and elegant.
Alc
20142015
N/A UK
www.terrasancta.co.nz
Two Sisters, Lowburn 2009
16.75
(89)
17
16
17
A farmyard element is emerging with notes of leather, spice and cedar. The
palate is still vibrant and fruity with plum and violets lingering on the finish.
14%
20142015
N/A UK
www.twosisters.co.nz
Wanaka Road, Cromwell 2011
16.75
(89)
17
17.5
16
Plummy, dark cherry notes with a touch of herbaceousness. Delicate palate
with soft bursts of red fruit and white cherries. A punchy finish.
13.8% 20142018
£15–
£22.99
Alliance Wine, Carruthers & Kent
Carrick, Bannockburn 2011
16.5
(88)
16
16
17.5
Very scented, floral style with a touch of plum and a background of cassis on 14%
the palate. Plenty of guts to warrant a bit more time in bottle.
20142018
£24.50
Great Western Wine
Lamont, Bendigo 2010
16.5
(88)
17
16
16.5
Very bright aroma with a hint of citrus and spice. Great texture with lots of
spice and plum notes on the palate. A silky finish with good balance.
13.5% 20142016
N/A UK
www.lamontwines.com
Rockburn, Pisa 2012
16.5
(88)
15
17
17.5
Attractive briary nose with crushed berries and proud aromatics. It evolves in 14%
the mouth with lovely texture and a vivid acidity. Long, clean and correct.
£26.99
Cozzi & Boffa, Hallgarten Druit
Surveyor Thomson, Explorer
Single Vineyard, Lowburn 2012
16.5
(88)
17
17
15.5
Mushrooms and violets together in harmony with a touch of perfume and a
good weight and structure on the palate.
13.5% 2014
£22.95–
£24
Hallowed Ground, Harvey Nichols, Swig,
Surveyor Thomson, Single Vineyard,
Lowburn 2010
16.5
(88)
17
15
17.5
Lively with good fruit concentration: quite a Burgundian style. Lots of things
happening on the palate with umami flavours and a strong savoury finish.
13.5% 20142018
£28.95–
£32
Berry Bros & Rudd, Bottle Apostle,
Hallowed Ground, Harvey Nichols, Swig,
Aurum 2011
16.25
(87)
16
15
18
Gently floral and spicy with a touch of earthiness. Intense palate with savoury 14.5% 2014notes that would go well with food.
2017
N/A UK
www.aurumwines.co.nz
Doctors Flat, Bannockburn 2011
16.25
(87)
16
16.5
16
Aromatic with rose and a hint of leather. Savoury and elegantly toasted oak
leads to good tannins and a luscious finish.
14%
20142020
£28.80
Berry Bros & Rudd
Folding Hill, Bendigo 2010
16.25
(87)
15
16
17.5
Very elegant nose with lovely pure Pinot aromas – cherry and rose blossom.
The palate is more umami with spice and a pleasing finish.
14%
20142015
£20
Amps Fine Wines, The Secret Cellar
Mt Difficulty, Single Vineyard
Target Gully, Bannockburn 2010
16.25
(87)
16
17.5
15.5
Intense, jammy cherry compote aroma. Seductive, silky textured palate and 14%
just enough acidity to make it fresh. Black fruits and subtle oak give structure.
20142019
£50–£65
Ellis of Richmond, Harrods
Mud House, Bendigo 2012
16.25
(87)
15.5
16.5
16.5
Interesting earthy notes here and also a youthful, vibrant character. A vinous, 13.5% 2014Burgundian style with lingering flavours and a touch of spice and vanilla.
2016
£13–£20
Stone Vine & Sun, Wine Rack
Tosq, Pisa 2010
16.25
(87)
17
17
15
Dark fruit with a nuance of violets and smoky oak. Juicy fruit comes forward
and then a savoury soy sauce character and grippy tannins.
14%
2014
N/A UK
www.tosq.co.nz
Quartz Reef, Bendigo 2012
16.25
(87)
16
17
15.5
Creamy nose with a palate that is richly textured, long and voluptuous with
flavours of roasted plums and warm spices.
14%
20142018
£21
Majestic
Two Paddocks, First Paddock,
Gibbston 2010
16.25
(87)
15.5
16
17
Quite a bold style with generous lashings of toasty oak, juicy fruits, vanilla
spice and some attractive complexity.
13%
20142015
£46.60
Haynes Hanson & Clark
Waipara Hills, Bendigo 2012
16.25
(87)
16
15
17.5
Nicely restrained and elegant nose with generous, balanced fruit on the
palate. An intriguing wine with silky texture, rich with coffee and chocolate.
14%
20142018
£13–£18
Free Run Wines, Sainsbury's, Tesco Wines
by the Case
Wild Irishman, Bannockburn 2012
16.25
(87)
16
17
16
Stunning nose of perfumed wild herbs. A savoury kick and a violet explosion
on the palate. Has a lovely, fleshy finish with some vanilla coming through.
13.5% 20142015
N/A UK
www.wildirishmanwines.co.nz
8 Ranges 2012
16
(86)
16
16
16
Gently floral and quite subtle. Fresh bright cherries with savoury spices on the 12.7% 2014palate and a slightly dry finish, but otherwise well balanced.
2016
N/A UK
www.8ranges.co.nz
Arrow River Wines, Bracken's Order,
Gibbston 2011
16
(86)
15
16
17
Attractive floral interest here with hints of smoke. Soft fruity palate which is
well balanced and still evolving. Good effort.
13.9% 20142016
£19.20
(2009)
Jeroboams
Aurum, Madeleine, 2012
16
(86)
15.5
16.5
16
Savoury forest floor nuances leading to a palate with attractive fruit purity
and a varietal flavour on the finish.
13.5% 20142017
N/A UK
www.aurumwines.co.nz
Domain Road Vineyard,
Bannockburn 2011
16
(86)
17
16
15
Very attractive scent with an enriched fruit palate and fresh acidity. The finish 14%
has savoury aspects. A firm style.
20142018
£20–
£21.99
Hawkshead, Merchant Vintner Co
Elephant Hill 2012
16
(86)
16
16.5
15.5
Dark cherries are balanced with a subtle amount of spice. The body is fuller
with delicate fruit and a clean fresh acidity. A bit short.
13%
20142016
£19.95
Coe Vintners
Kuru Kuru 2008
16
(86)
16
16
16
A touch muted on the nose with a palate that is full of intense red cherry fruit 14%
and a good amount of acidity.
20142015
£20
Oddbins
Mount Edward, Muirkirk Vineyard,
Bannockburn 2011
16
(86)
17
16
15
Enticing complexity on the nose with sous-bois and forest fruits. Powerful
fruit concentration with tight tannins and a floral edge.
13.5% 2014
£34–
£43.99
Alliance Wine
17.5
15.5
15
Perfumed and forward on the nose with a soft, silky palate and typical
Bannockburn fruit power.
14.3% 2014
N/A UK
www.terrasancta.co.nz
14%
20142015
Wine
Score MB
RJ
PT
Tasting note
Alc
Drink Price
Stockists
Terra Sancta, Mysterious Diggings,
Bannockburn 2012
16
(86)
Amisfield, Pisa 2010
16.75
(89)
17
16
17.5
Big, bold nose that them moves to being savoury and opulent on the palate.
Plenty of allspice and layers of floral notes and oak integration.
14%
20142015
N/A UK
www.amisfield.co.nz
Coal Pit, Tiwha, Gibbston 2011
15.75 16.5
(85+)
15
15.5
Lifted, clean and correct on the nose. The palate has layers of savoury
mushrooms and flowers which evolve in the glass. Lots of richness.
20142017
N/A UK
www.coalpitwine.com
Barrington, River Block,
Alexandra 2012
16.75
(89)
17.5
18
15
Fresh cherry and liquorice dominate the nose. Good tannin structure with a
feminine style with lots of class.
13%
20142018
N/A UK
www.barringtonwine.co.nz
Invivo 2012
15.75 15.5
(85+)
15.5
16.5
Cherry and marzipan nose with a fruity palate that isn’t too sweet. Lacks a bit 14.5% 2014of freshness on the finish.
2016
N/A UK
www.invivowines.com
Carrick, Excelsior, Bannockburn 2010 16.75
(89)
16.5
17.5
16
Full-on nose of luscious cherry perfume. Lots of blackcurrant fruit and
earthiness on the palate with a divine finish.
14%
2014
N/A UK
www.carrick.co.nz
Mud House, Claim 431 Estate,
Bendigo 2012
15.75 15.5
(85+)
16
16
Delicate, savoury and plummy nose with fine tannins and moderate
concentration. A nice finish of tender white cherries.
14.5% 20142018
£20–£26
Mill Hill Wines, Stone Vine & Sun
Tarras Vineyards 2009
16.75
(89)
17
15.5
17.5
Attractive aged complexity on the nose that is quite elegant. Developed dark 13.5% 2014red fruits lead to leather and tobacco notes. Still plenty of complex fruit left.
2015
N/A UK
www.tarrasvineyards.com
Thornbury 2012
15.75 16
(85+)
16.5
14.5
Pomegranate nose with some subtle spices. Plenty of flavour with strong
tannins and chocolate and coffee flavours. A wine to age.
13.5% 20142018
N/A UK
www.thornbury.co.nz
Terra Sancta, Bannockburn 2012
16.75
(89)
15
17.5
18
Lifted, pure and floral nose with a ripe and refreshing palate. Still quite young 13.5% 2014with good concentration and a firm grip.
2017
N/A UK
www.terrasancta.co.nz
Two Paddocks, The Last Chance, 2010 15.75 16
(85+)
16
15
Smoky bacon and a pungent floral nose with an elegant palate. Lots going on 14%
here with nice spices and insane length.
£46.60
Haynes Hanson & Clark
9 0 | J a n u a r y 2 014 • D E C A N T E R
20142016
D E C A N T E R • J a n u a r y 2 014 | 91
➢
Central Otago Pinot Noir
PANEL TASTING
15–16.75pts (83–89pts)
Wine
Score MB
RJ
PT
Tasting note
Alc
Drink Price
Stockists
Valli, Bendigo 2012
15.75 17
(85+)
15
15.5
Bundles of fruit with pure intensity and good oak integration. Lovely tannins
and structure but lacking clarity at the end.
14%
20142016
£49.99
Armit
Nanny Goat Vineyard 2012
15.5
(85)
16.5
15
15
Delicate red cherry aromas. Soft ripples of fruit on the palate with intense
concentration, lively acidity and good tannin structure.
13.5% 20142016
N/A UK
www.nannygoatvineyard.co.nz
Serendipity Vineyard 2012
15.5
(85)
16
16
14.5
Deep farmyard on the nose that evolves into a fruity explosion on the palate. 14.5% 2014Plenty of concentration with leather nuances.
2019
N/A UK
www.serendipityvineyard.co.nz
Wooing Tree, Cromwell 2010
15.5
(85)
15
15.5
16
Ripe, black fruit spectrum on the nose and savoury thyme & violet flavours on 14%
the palate. A rich style that is a bit astringent.
£26.45–
£29.50
Butlers, Carruthers & Kent, Hitchin Wine
Co, Seckford, Slurp, South Downs Cellars,
Village Vine, Wine Utopia
Burn Cottage, Lowburn 2011
15.25
(84)
16
16
14
This is scented and complex in the classic Pinot Noir mould. Deep, dark forest 13.5% 2014
fruits and wet moss and something spicy.
£42–£49
AG Wines, D Byrne & Co, Hedonism, L'Art
du Vin, Les Caves de Pyrène, New Street
Wine Shop, Selfridges
Craggy Range, Calvert Vineyard,
Bannockburn 2011
15.25
(84)
15
15.5
15
Soft delicate plummy nose with a powerful and savoury palate. Lots of oak
structure and some jamminess coming through.
14%
20142018
£40
Majestic
Desert Heart, Bannockburn 2010
15.25
(84)
16
16
14
Lovely fruit driven nose followed by a luscious berry palate, some spice, an
Earl Grey edge and lovely tannins.
13.5% 20142020
£24
The Real Wine Co
Joss Bay 2008
15.25
(84)
15
15
15.5
Fine, dark fruit and briar nose with hints of vanilla and good weight on the
palate. Developed but still enjoyable.
14.5% 20142015
N/A UK
+64 211020111
Coopers Creek, Select Vineyards
Razorback 2012
15
(83)
15
16
14
Slightly muted nose with a touch of mint. The palate is fruit forward with
flavours of morello cherries and marzipan.
14%
20142016
£14.25–
£20
Berkmann, Slurp
Maori Point 2011
15
(83)
14.5
16
14.5
Well-structured and clean with decent concentration. The acidity is a bit high 13.8% 2014but overall this is complex with a layered finish.
2015
N/A UK
www.maoripoint.co.nz
Mt Difficulty, Bannockburn 2011
15
(83)
16.5
15.5
13
Bakewell tart aromas with a leafy mid-palate. A touch of vanilla and spice on
the finish, which lacks a bit of freshness.
14%
£50
Ellis of Richmond
Wild Irishman, Three Colleens,
Gibbston 2011
15
(83)
16
16
13
Perfumed and spiced, good rippling fruit with a growing flavour intensity in
the mouth. Like new oak texture but lacks purity.
13.5% 2014
N/A UK
www.wildirishmanwines.co.nz
Fair 13–14.75pts (76–82pts)
■ Aurum, Mathilde Reserve, 2011 14.75 (82) ■ Judge Rock, My Three Sons, Alexandra
2012 14.75 (82) ■ Valli, Gibbston 2012 14.75 (82) ■ Maude, Mt Maude Vineyard
Reserve, Wanaka 2011 13.5 (78)
For full UK stockist details, see p97
20142020
20142020
Next month’s panel tastings
Californian Cabernet 2010
and latest-release red Navarra
My top three
My top three
My top three
n Pisa Range Estate, Black Poplar Block,
Pisa 2010 Vibrant and pretty with dark
cherries and an intense floral edge. Complex
aromas of spiced vanilla and coffee lead to
well-structured length with fine tannins and
finesse. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2014–2016
n Gibbston Valley 2012 A worthy
Outstanding winner – a wine that has
everything. It not only has a lovely stalky
texture but an underlying aroma of fruit
perfume and a delicate finish on the palate.
Great with meaty fish such as sea bass with
wild mushrooms 19/20 (96/100)
Drink 2014–2018
n Gibbston Valley 2012 Top-quality Pinot
Noir needs to be multi-faceted with all the
key components in harmony. This wine
achieves this. Not only does it have real
concentration at moderate alcohol, but the
silky texture, allied to the fresh acidity and
vibrant, ripe tannins combine with the lovely
clean flavours to suggest a wine that should
age well while giving great enjoyment now.
18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2014–2018
Melanie Brown
n Terra Sancta, Mysterious Diggings,
Bannockburn 2012 An abundance of
crushed cherries and blackberries combined
with wild thyme and lavender. Silky tannins
and vibrant acidity provide good structure
alongside layers of fruit flavours and a
seductive length. 17.5 (91) Drink 2014
n Felton Road, Block 3, Bannockburn 2012
Bright berry fruits that provide intense
purity. Savoury herbs entwined with rich
chocolate, leather, cinnamon and cloves.
Elegant and sophisticated with firm tannins,
a dry finish and a heap of character.
17.5 (91) Drink 2014–2020
Roger Jones
n Mount Edward, Morrison Vineyard,
Lowburn 2011 A really special wine. Rich
and silky, savoury and spicy. It has floral
notes and dark but precise fruits, and leaves
a lovely lingering aromatic finish. This would
be great with fancy Peking duck or basic
pork scratchings 19 (96) Drink 2014–2015
n Felton Road, Cornish Point,
Bannockburn 2012 A big hit of intensity on
the palate but then evolves into a rich,
velvety wine with luscious berries. This is
drinking well now but will get even better.
A great-value wine for its price from one of
New Zealand’s best vineyards. 18.5 (95)
Drink 2014–2020
NB: the tasters’ top wines are not necessarily their top-scoring, rather those which, on learning the
wines’ identity, they feel are the most notable given their provenance, price or other factors
92 | J a n u a r y 2 014 • D E C A N T E R
Expert summary: Bob Campbell MW
There’s been great improvement among this region’s Pinots over the past decade,
and this broad tasting guarantees there’s a vintage and style to suit all tastes
Bob Campbell MW is the
Decanter World Wine
Awards Regional Chair for
New Zealand and chairman
of the New Zealand
International Wine Show
This comprehensive tasting covers a good cross-section
of producers, sub-regions and vintages. A challenge, I’m
sure, for the judges to rate wines that are stylistically so
different despite sharing a common grape and region.
I was intrigued to see whether the judges favoured the
big fruit-bomb styles, much loved by many Kiwi Pinot Noir
drinkers, or if they had a bias for wines that more closely
matched the Burgundy model – perfumed, more austere
and complex with less sumptuous fruit. Happily the leading
wines included both extremes with many shades between.
The five Outstanding wines have one thing in common
– power. Pisa Range and Nanny Goat’s Super Nanny deliver
power in an obvious and very seductive way. Both are
totally endearing, enveloping the senses with luscious red
and black fruits. The two Gibbston Valley wines are no less
powerful but their underlying power is less immediately
obvious... until you sense their extraordinary length of
flavour. Kalex lies between these two extremes.
I predicted that the seductive 2009 vintage would be
the winner but I was wrong, though that may be partly due
to the fact that there were only four 2009s in the tasting of
90 wines. The highest performing vintage was the generally
excellent 2012 year which had a 42% share of total entries
but earned a 46% share of the wines in the Outstanding and
Highly Recommended categories. The weakest vintage
seems to be the rain-affected 2011. Perhaps not a surprise
although I have enjoyed many good wines from that year
– not least the six Highly Recommendeds, plus Kalex.
Regional icon Felton Road was a bit of a bridesmaid
earning four Highly Recommendeds but no Outstandings.
Felton Road was recognised by New Zealand’s Pinot Noir
makers as one of the country’s two finest producers (with
Ata Rangi from Martinborough). Its wines are often too
subtle, perhaps too youthful, to stand out in a crowd. I’ve
seen Felton Road miss the boat in other tastings but don’t
love its wines any less for their inability to be show ponies.
Ten years ago if I had been presented with a blind
tasting of 90 Central Otago Pinots I might have given 10
Highly Recommended or better while refusing to put five or
six wines in my mouth. It’s pleasing to see 37 wines make
the cut in this tasting with only four rated as just Fair. I’d
have put all of them in my mouth. That’s progress. D
‘The five wines the judges rated
as Outstanding have one thing in
common – power’
Philip Tuck MW
A designer box.
A wine-lover’s wine.
n Pisa Range Estate, Black Poplar Block,
Pisa 2010 This wine has a delightfully
enticing floral scent that only really
high-quality Pinot Noir can achieve. It has
concentration and the silkiness one might
expect of a good Chambolle. A most
impressive effort. 19 (96) Drink 2014–2016
n Kalex Wines 2011 The class and
complexity here is evident immediately in
this impressively structured wine. It has that
wonderful combination of freshness and
complexity which makes it easy to drink
and enjoy on its own or with a wide variety
of foods. Difficult to fault. 18.5 (95)
Drink 2014–2016
www.chateau-montlabert.com
ChateauxCastel
In creating this unique wooden box, designer Patrick Jouin pays
outstanding tribute to Château Montlabert.
The box, of white lacquered wood, incorporates a textured façade
whose fluid movement symbolises the union of Merlot and
Cabernet Franc.
Its metallic sheen is reminiscent of Château Montlabert’s highly
distinctive label.
RCS 482 283 694 B – November 2013
Recommended (continued)