Mount Hood and Timberline Lodge

For skiers, snowboarders, climbers,
hikers, and even
sail boarders, the
majestic h u n t
I
MAG/NÂ STARTING your &Cent
at
nearly 2000 metres. The sky is
deep blue, three metres of snow is
firm underneath ten centimetres of
fresh powder thatfell in the night,
and the shining peak the Natrue
Americans called Wy 'Eastseems nearly
close enough to touch; yet it will take
several hours mere4 to crest its shoulder.
to the low wind and high visibiiiiy, the
Magic Mile Chair is operating today, and
we grstefulty ride it to over 2100 metres,
saving about an hour of ciimfnng effort.
As vse /cave the shelter of t& few
remaining trees, a lidt breeze picks up.
The early morning light casts a pink glow,
distinctive shadows near each
-raising
ridge and valley, all clearly visible here
North Oregon, is a
true year-round
destination
the 3426 metre Mount Hoodsummit. Due
above the timberfifte, where only a f m
twisted, flagged sub-alpine fir dare to
exist. A gray jay swoops nearby, perhaps
hoping it wiij be sharing our breakfast
soon. We stick climbing skins onto our
telemark skis, rub on some leueZ 21 sunblock, a n d prepare t o head off for
Illumination Saddle, a high pass betsseen
the 2909 metre I//umination Rock and
peted by a wonderfu? spectacle, as most
of the Oregon Cascades spread out before
us in early morning relief. But we are
headed up, andthe view will inerease
with each stn'de. Now the real work
begins...
Huffiag and puffing, we trudge up the
last 700 metres toward the saddle,
Outdoor* (lhstmld June /July 19'"
A skier walks dwsn off the mountain (left)
having made the climb (using sktas) in the
early morning.
skimming the edgy of Palmer Glacier,
home of the only a//-summer
lift-serviced
skiing in the United States, The Palmer
~ l a aand
? ~ nearby Zipg Glader are
stillconnectedby snow. By turfy July this
part of the trip wou/dprobably require a
walk over to the Iwa rid@separating the
A snoveboanler(&lows}demonstrates adat
acrobaticscan be achieved in this mAng
ness sport.
A hammered brass sign (bottom)noting the
salientpoints about Timbertine L+ and
Mount Hood,hang QÃ the 92'chimney in the
twogfacim.
.......................................................................................
Nm themica/demand iftmases, as
me side-kill'across Z i p g Glacier.Those
fortunate enough to have adjustablepoles
lensfhen their downhillpole and shorten
their uphW'polefor theftna f push. The
p&,
until nws a steady I-in-3,
steepens, and we make a series of kickturn switch backs to reach the
saddle. Water bottles a n d trail snacks are
passed around, climbing skins ere
removed, and we settle in for some
fantastic si&-seeing. To the west, a hazy,
somewhatpolluted view of the Portland
skylinepresents itself, but to the south, the
clear 'day aIIom views of nearly all the
Ot~g08Cascade volcanoes, asfar south
as the rim of Crater Lake, 250 kilometres
away. I n betvseen the white w/ranoes, the
Cascade Mountak undulate in row after
ross of fir-clad ridges, tumbling &//er one
another M e breakers on the shore. A few
of the more adventurous in thegroup
push up theflank of Illumination Rock to
try some steep-terrain turns.
1he sun has lamed the wind-Docked
snow intojust the right consistencyof corn
for effortless turns, with a hollow here
and therefiZ/ed mth blown-in powder to
testthe skt2Ied a n d dump the unwmy.
Soon the whole group & whooping and
hollering in glee, some carving f q e ,
gracefultelmarks,others charging down
thefall line in quick, linkedjump tarns.
Am/down thefaU line it is, for vse are not
heading directfy back to Tmberiine, but
southwest, strai'sftt down the Z i p g
Glacier,for Paradire Part,where alpine
v n l d f / o k are spotted as early as May.
Over a kilometreof descent is enjoyed before hitting the timlwriine and the
Timberiine Trail,which circumsen'bes the
mountain and.togetherwith the sun
/ossen'ftg in the &t, signaIs that it is time
to beffn heading back.
main lobby.
goingto feel, a n d inner
deliberation over the menu in
Timberline? internationally acclaimed
restaurant.
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..........
A ]though
excellent back country
adventures like these abound,
Timberline has six lifts for serving the
traditional alpine skier. Most trails are
well suited to the intermediate skier or
advanced beginner. T h e Betsy Chair
provides a comfortable "first time everw
environment, while the summer-only
Palmer Chair provides challenges for the
experienced skier far up on the steeper
slopes of the mountain between May and
September. And many who desire greater
excitement carry their alpine skis further
up, a few adrenaline freaks actually
skiing off the rope-and-crampon-pitch of
the summit.
r r n b c r l i n c is a pioneer in the field of
snowboarding, and snowboarders love
jumping off t h e walls of t h e natural
.....................................................................................
chutes formed by t h e many small
tired muscles exact afitting tollfor canyons in the area. Unlike some areas
allthatfun wesoeffortlessfyenjoyed
that have banished snowboarding,
earlier,for Zi-g
Canyon f k betvseen us Timberline makes them welcome with a
Now,
groomed half-pipe, weekly races, and a
well-stocked rental shop.
The even grade and proximity of back
country adventures make Timberline a
favourite among telemark skiers, who
often congregate on the runs feeding the
Blossom Chair. Several broad trails run
all the way down to Government Camp
and a combination of lift and shuttle bus
makes a kilometre of vertical drop over
the eleven kilometre distance from the
top of the Magic Mile C h a i r to
Government Camp possible.
s u m m e r access to the Palmer Chair
makes the ungroomcd Zigzag Glacier
even easier to get to. When the Palmer
Chair stops running in early e
September (tor lack of skiers, not lack of
snow), the free-wheelers have the whole
glacier to themselves. Unless you have
one leg longer than t h e other, crosscountry ski options on t h e side of a
volcano are somewhat limited. Many set
out on the Timberline Trail, travelling as
far as Zigzag Canyon and back for an
easy, six kilometre day trip.
k n o w campers sometimes travel the
entire 50 kilometres ofthe Timberline
Trail on cross-country skis, but that is
best left to those who are familiar with
the trail, since it is not easily followed in
the winter. Better opportunities for crosscountry skiing abound within a short
distance of Government Camp, with the
10 kilometre loop around Trillium Lake
a favourite among beginners, since the
Forest Service grooms and sets track
around the lake periodically.
certainly, Mount Hood is a place for
skiing. English admiral Lord Hood could
not have imagined what joy this volcano
would someday bring when he s e n t
Vancouver on his voyage of discovery
near the end of the 18th century. Few
glaciated mountains in the world receive
so many visitors, and only one, Mount
Fuji, serves more climbers.
Although sometimes referred to as the
"tourist route," the south-side approach
requires ropes and crampons for the last
500 metres. Its disparaging nickname
belies the lives lost on the route, usually
due to poor judgment about weather or
poor navigation skills. Magnetic
declination is 200 east; neither is the fall
line a reliable indicator. Following a
magnetic heading back down deceptively
600
follows the fall tine, right over the
'
metre cliff of Mississippi Head.
Following the fall line higher up could
lead you into t h e d e e p crevasses of
White River Glacier. Yet-, in good
visibility, t h e south-side route is
outstanding for ready access and
magnificent views. There is a wonderful
glissade back down.
iA ]though climbers give the mountain
little rest in any season, early spring is
!
Outdoors Illustrated June 1 July 1%
pp-
1
t h e best climbing time. Most parties
depart between 1 and 4 a.m. in order to
: reach the top by early morning. This not
only avoids coming down in late
afternoon, when sun-loosened rocks
begin to hail down from the Steel Cliffs,
but also allows you to watch the sunrise,
and observe the shadow of the mountain,
seen only from airplanes and by climbers.
l.
The viewfrom hear the summit o f ~ o u n t
Hood, showing Ttmberiine L+
in the
foreground with the peak of Mount Jeffet~on
(over45 miles assay)visible above the clouds
l
Climbers are required to check in and
out, and an active search and rescue team
is available to help those who encounter
problems, but it is a good idea for those
with less experience to seek out other
climbers their first time.
S o l o i s t s can generally find groups to
rope in with a t Hogsback, 300 metres
below the summit.
- HIKINGFOR ALL*
E m b e r l i n e Lodge is a favourite starting
point for scenic day-hiking in any
direction, although the peak and alpine
meadows above t h e timberline draw
most visitors north like a magnet. Prime
season for alpine wildflowers is late June
through to early August.
The mighty and enigmatic Mount Hood,
prominent over thepeaceful solitude of
TriUwm Lake. here seen in mid-summer.
.,
E a s t e r n travel brings you into t h e
broad, open White River Canyon, and
eventually into neighbouring Mount
Hood Meadows Ski Area. Hiking west
three kilometres to Zigzag Canyon leaves
you just below t h e imposing cliff of
Mississippi Head. Southbound hikers
can reach Government Camp with ease
on a number of trails, which is a favorite
for families, since it is downhill, with a
shuttle service back up. Government
Camp offers even more opportunities for
hiking. A trip to the top of 1545 metire
Tom, Dick and Harry Mountain reveals
Mount Hood in its entirety, as well as
glimpses of Mount St Helens and Mount
Adams in Washington State. Older hikers
a n d families with small children will
appreciate the relatively flat 10 kilometre
loop around Trillium Lake, or shorter
trails to Mirror Lake or Enid Lake.
Perhaps the most travelled backpacking
circuit in the area is t h e 50 kilometre
Timberline Trail. This trail completely
circumscribes the mountain, with about
three-quarters of the distance being in
the 47,100 acre Mount Hood Wilderness
Area. A portion of this trail intersects the
Pacific Crest Trail, which winds
MOUNT HOODAND TIMBERLINE
LODGE
*
55
Nes/~~ag
on ise south $/ape of
Mount Hood at 6 thousandft. (atwe),the
front elevation of Timbertineseen at dust.
hrough thecascades and Sierra Nevada
anges from Canada neariy all the way to
Mexico. An easily obtained permit is
equired for overnight travel in
he Wilderness.
^l s
Hand-laidfoundation stones (Uft) betray the
~shra/
m@ featuresof this National
Historic Monument.
if skiing, climbing, and hiking
nearby Salmon and
4ood Rivers offer salmon, steelhead and
rout fishing, while the Ctackamas River
s a tocai favourite among rafters and
~ a y a k e r s .A l l the nearby lakes are
~uitablefor fishing and board sailing, but
30 kilometres to the north lies the
Columbia River Gorge, which is
icclaimed as one of the finest high-wind
)oard sailing areas in the entire world.
weren't enough, the
w ~ t the
h beautiful Cascades as your
alayground, the outdoor water or landmsed activities surrounding Mount
Hood are limitless. In short, if you can't
Find something outdoors to do on Lord
Hood's mountain, you probably haven't
left your room yet! '@
,
In dripformation: (above)IdCles line up en
telling reminders of the seasonQ/fyIwe
temperaturn ouinde here on& inches assay
frvm the toasfy L+ intenhr.
One of several haunting andprovocative
carving (kft}made by the craftsmen who
ssorkedat Timheriine.
->.
-
ABOUTT H E AUTHOR
GETTING THERE
About 100 kilometres away, Portland
InternationalAirport (POX) is the closest major
airport to Mount Hood. If you stay in Timberline
Lodge (Timberllne Lodge, OR 97028, Tel: 503231-7979), the Mount Hood Express shuttle-bus
will take you to and from the airport or
downtown Portland. Local shuttles ply the ten
kilometre road between Timberline and the
village of Government Camp on an irregular,
seasonal schedule for $4 one-way, but
otherwise, there Is no local transportationfor
hire. Those who wish to explore the area may
prefer car rentals; a variety of car hire
companies can be found near the airport, but be
aware that traction devices chains, four-wheel
drive, or snow tyres - are generally required in
the winter, Avis, Budget, and Thrifty report fourwheel drive vehiie rentals from the Portland
Airport during the winter from $35 per day.
White they don?have 4WD, Hertz rents tyre
chains for $2 per day. Other companies may
also support winter driving be sure to check
through your travel agency, and reserve special
terrain vehicles well in advance.
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HIRING AND BUYING EQUIPMENT
Alpine and tetemark skis and snowboards are
available for rental at Timberline from $14 per
day. (Bringyour own climbing skins for backcountry travel.) Cross-country skis can be hired
from several places in Government Camp from
about $9 per day. Winter Fox (38464Pioneer
Blvd., Sandy, OR 97055,Tel: 503-659-2445,
summer, Tel: 503-668-6500winter), perhaps the
best known, has traditional cross-country skis
and gaiters for rent in Government Camp and
Sandy. (Barbara Fox, the owner, is particularly
knowledgeable about area native plants and
wildflowers.)
Hiking, kkpacking, and climbing gear is not
available on the mountain, but a number of
shops in Portland can outfit you. Among the
better known are RE1 (1798 Janzten Beach
Center, Portland, OR 97217, Tel: 503-2831300), and Oregon MountainCommunity
(60NW Davis, Portland, OR 97219,
Tel: 503-227-1038).
,
Illumination Saddle tour and instruction.
Many climbing, hiking and fishing guide
services are offered by a number of groups; RE1
maintains a literature rack and can providea list
of particular organizations. M&MRafting (2879
NE 7th Street, Gresharn, OR 97030, Tel: 503661-7238) is one outfitter offering guided raft
trips or fishing trips on nearby rivers, and
Columbia WindsurfingAcademy (202 Cascade,
Hood River, OR 97031, Tel: 503-FUN-JIBE), is
among the batter-knowncompanies offering
board sailing lessons and rentals.
-
on Cyprus, scaled
LESS DEMANDING ACTIVITIES
Most nightlife activities are centred at
Timberline, w h i i has three bars. A cafeteria
serves sandwiches and lighter fare, but the
famous ,the
Cascade dining
room, (smarter
should not be missed for at least one meal.
A small gift shop sells souvenirs, including
many beautiful items handmade by regional
artists and craftspeople. The rental shop
also provides binding adjustment and ski
tuning services.
The village of.Govemment Camp has
several bare anrfhstauranis;the Ratskeller
has what is perhaps the best pizza in town,
with breakfast honours going
to the Huckleberry, for Edna's
cheerful demeanour and their
incredible omelettes. New In town
is the Timberline Brew Pub, which
serves sandwiches and a large variety
of regional beer. They plan to begin
on-site brewing by the end of the
year. Cheap drinks and local
colour are the strengths of
Charlie's, where the yearround Government Camp
residentstend to hang out
The Village Store has
groceries and take-out beer
and wins, but the price is
proportional to the altitude.
-m
THE SKY
Seen here in dramatic
siihouette (tight), the
TimberiineLodge
towr and its
weather vane
ts based on
a nafive American
Indian motif.
Snowdorta, backWed Korea's
national parks, and sewed as a Winter
Olympics ski patrolhr. Jan now divides
his time between computer consulting
assignments, working as an environmental activist for the Sierra Club,
and running Timberline
Ski School's crosscountry instruction
programme.
After bicycling
nearly 10,000 continuous
kilometres on a personal odyssey,
Jan was selected in 1976 as a
tour leader for Bike Centennial,
a group organized to celebrate
the 200th anniversary of America's
independence by bicycling from
coastto coast. He led 14 cyclists
from Oregon's Pacific Coast to the
Atlantic shoreline of Virginia over
this 80-day trip.
Jan developeda
love for winter in
his native
Michigan, and
spread crosscountry skiing
among his friends with
a missionaryzeal. In
1980, he was
selected from
L
among the top ski
^
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7
'
TAKING TIMBERLINE TOURS
Timberline Ski School offers private ski-tours
with instruction by appointment all year round
from $39, which can be booked through the
Lodge, and regular group lessons in alpine,
telemark, cross-country, and snowboard skiing
from $14, late November through eariy May.
Summer ski camps are offered by various
organizations contact Timberline Ski School for
information. Wy'East Nordic (56665 E.Femwood
Circle, Sandy, OR 97055. Tel: 503-622-4841)
offers a summer telemark camp featuring an
IAN STEINMAN is a
world traveller who
has troycted across
North America and
from the Mediterraneantothetop
of Mount Olympus
m
Olympic Games
Ski Patrol at Lake
Placid, New York.
His desire for
year-round skiing
brought him to
Oregon in1984,
where he serves
as a regional
clinician and
examiner for the
Professional
Ski Instructors
of America.