PetGroomer.com Magazine for Professional Pet Groomers January

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PetGroomer.com Magazine for Professional Pet Groomers January
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
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PetGroomer.com Publications
M A G A Z I N E
formerly “eGroomer Journal”
January / March 2015
p
U
t
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Mix
by Mackensie Murphy
Page 19
A Poodle in Disguise
16 Insights for Winter Grooming
32 Blow Away Your Troubles
42 The Do’s of Pet Styling Education
50 Don’t Forget! Grease the Cutter Notch
54 Two Commission© 2014
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Insights for Winter Grooming
By Christina Pawlosky
I always dread springtime because of
those customers that believe their dogs
do not need or should not be groomed
in winter. The thought is enough to
stress any Pet Stylist. As professionals,
we need to educate our customers that
regular grooming throughout the winter
months is important.
Keeping Your Customers’ Dogs WellGroomed
The science behind a dog’s skin and
coat life cycle plays a big part in the
reasoning behind regularly scheduled
grooming appointments, even in winter.
First, a dog’s skin is regenerated under
normal conditions about every six
weeks. A dog’s coat is housed in the
common opening – made up of one
primary hair and seven to 25 secondary
hairs. The primary and secondary hairs
share the same opening below the
surface of the skin. Each hair has its
own unit, but each of those hairs does
not grow continuously. Instead, the hair
grows in cycles that consist of their
respective growing period.
At the end of the cycle, dead coat is
shed. Some things that can trigger a
coat to shed large amounts are:
• Seasonal changes (especially from
winter to spring)
• Light associated with seasonal
changes
• Hormones
• Diet
If you do not assist the dead hair out by
(Continued on page 17)
Professional groomer Christina (Chris) Pawlosky is a Certified
Master Groomer National Dog Groomers Association of America,
Inc. (NDGAA), Certified Feline Master Groomer with National Cat
Groomers Institute of America, Inc (CFMG), Pet Tech certified in
CPR and Pet First Aid, member of the Professional Cat Groomers
Association of America, Oster® National Training Manager and
brand ambassador. Christina is the owner of the Pet Connection in
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Insights for Winter Grooming
(Continued from page 16)
bathing and force drying and/or
brushing, then it becomes packed in,
matted or intertwined with the healthy
hair. This causes a number of issues.
Bad matting can cause sores on the
skin from the coat pulling
as the mats tighten.
Another issue is that a
matted coat can’t
breathe. When the coat
gets damp, it stays damp
for longer than normal
periods of time, causing
an imbalance in the
natural flora of the skin.
But one thing is for sure – maintaining a
regular grooming regimen will ensure
less trouble for the dog and will assist
the life cycle of the coat in a healthy
way all year round.
Carefully Grooming a Neglected Coat
A neglected coat is very painful for the
dog because when you de-mat the dog,
you are pulling live hair with the dead
matted hair from the skin. When a dog
is in really bad condition, a groomer has
one option to prevent the dog from
going through a lot of unimaginable
pain.
The Oster® #7F blade is a good choice
on an Oster® Volt or A6 clipper. The
#7F blade seems to work the best to
shave under the mats unless it is so bad
that you need to go
shorter. Once I remove all
the mats, I bathe the dog
and then repeat the
process. It’s important to
remember to stretch skin
tight and flat where you
are clipping.
A matted coat makes
shaving a dog down difficult and time
consuming because the weight of the
matted coat pulls the skin, creating
folds. It’s vital to never clip directly into
folds of skin or force the clipper.
Another issue that is caused from dematting when the coat is not clipped
down is the risk of damaging the coat.
De-matting tools can cause the cuticle
of the hair to fray and lift, catching on
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Insights for Winter Grooming
(Continued from page 17)
other hairs and causing the coat to web
and the ends of the coat to mat.
A heavy conditioning spray like Hydro
Surge® detangling spray can help with
this problem by sealing
the coat.
Tweaking the tips of
hair regularly is also a
good way to keep a
coat in good shape.
But ultimately,
maintaining the dog
regularly and not
allowing them to
become matted will
best minimize the risk of damaging the
coat.
Making Your Grooming Appointments
Easier
When you do have to deal with those
matted coats, make sure you charge for
your time. Just think how much you
would charge if you groomed the same
dog every six weeks for those six long
months. It would add up to four
grooming appointments and a dog that
should be easier to handle and in great
condition.
Remember – a dog that is only
groomed once or twice a year is going to
be harder to handle because they are
not used to the environment. Plus, the
work is going to be
more invasive because
of the owner’s neglect.
So charge accordingly!
Training your
customers is
important and is
critical in preventing
winter grooming
neglect. I schedule my
customers one year in
advance for a minimum of six-week
intervals to keep the dogs looking and
feeling their best year round.
It also keeps their owners on track by
helping them understand that when the
coat is dead it is coming out regardless
of coat type. Owners will be proactive –
brushing and scheduling regular
appointments, or they will deal with the
aftermath of shedding, matting, odor
and dirt. ■
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by Mackensie Murphy
A Poodle in Disguise
Mackensie Murphy is a second generation Pet Stylist following in her mothers footsteps and becoming the very first second
generation Groomteam USA competitor. Mackensie grew up traveling to
competitions and trade shows and had always dreamed of one day being a top
competitor. In 2005, Mackensie started her own grooming career at the young
age of 18. Over the years she has worked for and studied under some of the
industry's top professionals. Mackensie began her competition career in early
2011 and quickly shot to the top of her game moving up to Division A by the end
of that same year. She has been awarded multiple Best In Show awards, Best All
Around Groomer awards and is a five time winner of the prestigious Liz Paul
Memorial Best Scissored Poodle Award. She has made the great
accomplishment of gracing the cover of multiple issues of "Groomer To Groomer"
magazine, the grooming industry's top publication. Going forward, Mackensie
consistently stayed among the top ten competitors and earned herself a position
on Groomteam USA in 2012 and 2013. Currently, Mackensie divides her time
grooming top show dogs, the pets of Manhattan's elite and being a "super mom"
to her toddler, Oliver. In 2014, Mackensie continued her winning streak and
finished the year ranking #2 on Groomteam USA. In October 2015 she will be part of the team in Italy with her American
Cocker Spaniel.
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Mix It Up: A Poodle in Disguise
As everyday groomers it is safe to say
we all grow a little tired of executing the
same trims over and over; #4 blade on
the body, round head, #1 comb pattern,
DON'T trim the ears. Every so often we
land clients who hand the artistic reigns
over to us, letting groomers do whatever
they wish. I love the beautiful phrase
written on top of a client note card
stating “groomers choice.”
I follow this green light with an
immediate scan of any and every
intriguing, flashy or adorable haircut I
have ever seen and stored away in my
mental file called “Grooms to Try One
Day.” You understand.
Next figure out how to make the hairy
beast on your table look like a flawless,
unique piece of art that could even pass
for a child's stuffed animal (if it weren't
for the wagging tail and head tilting). I
have found this is not always the easiest
objective to accomplish. I want to avoid
my personality trims turning out more
like Pinterest fails.
I want to tap into the world of mixing up
breed trims, something that comes a
little easier to me. For example, if you
have an American Cocker Spaniel that
you really don't want to shave all the
way down, although he just loves to go
swimming, try a Schnauzer trim with
shaved ears.
Perhaps you have a Yorkie whose owner
wants something new. Try a Westie trim
a little out side the box and still easy to
maintain.
How about your endless number of Shih
Tzu clients? This breed must rank in the
Top 5 of most popular dogs groomed
every year. If ever there is a breed
groomers wish had refresh buttons for
their styling, it is this one. If Mom and
Dad can be persuaded into ear tassels,
you are not too far off from a Dandi
Dinmont look alike.
This approach to grooming has become
a pretty popular trend in grooming
contest rings too. Consider the Bichon
Frise in a Kerry Blue trim, Cockapoos
disguised as Wheatens, Maltese in the
form of the American Cocker or Setter
and my personal favorite, the Poodle in
a Bedlington trim, also affectionately
called "The Poodlington."
The trick to really pulling off this illusion
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Mix It Up: A Poodle in Disguise
(Continued from page 20)
is to try and mimic the breed standard
as closely as you can. When looking at
these breeds profile, the Bedlingtons
top line and underline should match.
There should be a slight arch over the
loin and a defined tuck up dropping
down to the elbow creating an 'S' shape.
They are also slightly longer in body
than they are tall and flat ribbed
referred to as "slab sided".
In order to put this trim on a Poodle who
is square in outline, with a level topline,
nice spring of ribs and a well angulated
front and rear, camouflage grooming
must come into play. I start by blocking
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Mix It Up: A Poodle in Disguise
(Continued from page 23)
in the areas that need to be shorter in
order to hide the Poodle's curves that
the Bedlington does not share.
First I use a #5F blade to set the length
of the shoulders starting from under the
ear, skimming off at the elbow. I also
use a #5F blade on the rear from the
pin bone to the bend of the back leg,
skimming down toward the hock. This
area needs to be short on Poodles in
order to mimic the straight rear of the
Bedlington.
Next I use a #2 come to set the length
of the rib cage. Be careful not to follow
the shape of the Poodles actual body on
this part. I only skim the #2 comb over
the widest part of the rib cage, leaving
the hair above and below this area to be
scissored to give the illusion of a flat
ribbed dog. This has to be done in order
to hide the Poodle's spring of rib.
When creating the top line, fill coat will
be needed to create the roach from the
tailset to just slightly over the tuck up. I
use a curved shear to build this faux
Bedlington trademark. With a straight
shear I then scissor the line from the
top of the arch to just about two fingers
widths behind the withers.
The underline should mimic the topline.
When placing the tuck up on a Poodle
you normally place it under the last rib.
However, for a Bedlington trim you need
to place it farther back on the dog. I
tend to place the tuck up just in front of
where the back leg meets the loin.
The tuck up will also need to be higher
and more defined than a typical Poodle.
From the highest point of the tuck up
the line will continue to just below the
elbow. Remember to follow the topline
you just created, giving the underline a
little curve from the tuck up to the
elbow. Keep in mind that every dog will
have different structure, so small
adjustments can be made based on the
particular dog you are working on.
Poodles have a well-angulated front
which gives them more chest than a
Bedlington. With some creative
scissoring you need to hide this fore
chest in order to give the illusion of
having a straight front like the
Bedlington. I prefer not to use blades to
achieve this. I find that scissoring the
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Mix It Up: A Poodle in Disguise
(Continued from page 24)
chest straight down from the clipper
work of the throat to the front toe nails
is the most effective way of creating this
illusion.
The breed standard for the Bedlington
describes a hare foot. I use a small
curved shear to trim the feet, bringing
both sides of the foot in tight meeting at
the two middle toe nails. I then round
the front of the toes to meet both sides.
The front legs on a Bedlington should be
parallel. However, the Bedlington stands
close at the feet which creates a "V" or
"keyhole" where the front legs meet the
body.
To achieve this look on a Poodle you
need to scissor the inside of the front
legs. I point the tip of my straight shear
towards the armpit. This technique gives
you a straight parallel line, and allows
you to pinch the line enough to create
the gap in between the front legs.
When looking at your dog from the rear,
the hips down to the back feet should
create an "A" shape. The outside of the
(Continued on page 26)
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Mix It Up: A Poodle in Disguise
(Continued from page 25)
back leg should be slightly longer than
the inside. Keep the lines parallel. The
back side of the rear legs were
previously set
with a #5F
blade. Keeping
the hair short
from the pin
bone to the
hock will give
the illusion of
the
Bedlington's
rear angulation.
The standard
calls for a well
let down and
strong hock,
angled slightly
down toward
the back pad.
Transferring the
look of a
Bedlington
head to a
Poodle is the most difficult part of this
trim and the most important style. A
Poodle head is much more refined than
a Bedlington’s. The head should appear
narrow and long, and in proportion with
the body. Careful. It is very easy to pinch
this look on a Poodle due to the
structure of their heads. I use blades
ranging from
a #15 to #50
blade for
clipper work.
Use
whichever
blade you
would feel
comfortable
with using to
shave a
Poodle face.
The clipper
work line
should run
from just
above the
corner of the
ear, to the
outside
corner of the
eye and
continue down to the corner of the
mouth. Shave the entire under jaw well.
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January / March 2015
Mix It Up: A Poodle in Disguise
(Continued from page 26)
The line on the throat can either come
down to a "V" like a Poodle, or a "U"
shape. I think this technique draws the
mind away from thinking "Poodle."
past the withers, blending it into the
beginning of your topline. Create as long
of a neck as possible.
The ear tassels should be approximately
1/3 of the ear. Drag your thumb down
to the tip of the ear, leaving the tip of
your thumb down to the tip of the ear.
Use your thumb as a guideline, creating
an upside down "V" shape around it. The
same pattern should be done on the
inside of the ear, matching what you
just did to the outside. The rest of the
ear is shaved up to where the ear meets
the top scull. I use the same blade for
I use a straight shear to scissor the
sides of the head. It should resemble a
brick shape from the front, consisting of
two parallel lines all the way back to
behind the ears. The highest point of
the head on a Bedlington is at the
crown. On a Poodle it is necessary to
push this back past the occiput. From
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the occiput,
scissor a straight
line to just
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January / March 2015
Mix It Up: A Poodle in Disguise
(Continued from page 27)
this as I used for the clipper work on the
face. Ear tassels should be no longer
than the length of the nose, when
pulling the ear tassel forward.
the halfway point of a Poodle tail looks
best. The sides and underside of the tail
can be shaved with the same blade that
was used on the clipper work.
I hope this article helps open doors for
you with a different genre of creative
The tail is done in thirds on a
grooming when you already have the
Bedlington. Most Poodles have docked
basics of proper pattern placement.
tails so this is really up to your
Don't be afraid to try something new.
judgment. I find that bringing the "V"
Ask your clients for the green light, no
28
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shape on the tail down to approximately
holds barred. Go big and mix it up. ■
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Blow Away Your Troubles
The Science Behind HV Drying, De-shedding, De-matting & De-tangling
by Dave Campanella
By now you have come to realize
shedding and matting are the top
reasons pet parents seek professional
grooming help. Unfortunately, prepping
usually requires long hours of brushing,
de-matting, de-tangling and de-shedding
well before any trimming and styling
can occur. All this repetitive physical
motion produces a lot of muscle and
mental fatigue which increases the
likelihood of injury for both groomer and
pet. Injury in the grooming profession is
not a matter of “if”; but when, how often
and how severe. There’s got to be a
better way. Right?
Unfortunately, there’s a barrage of dematting, de-tangling and de-shedding
claims out there, and far too many tools
and gimmicks. All this clutter stems
from the basic marketing challenge
every grooming supply company faces…
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(Continued on page 33)
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Blow Away Your Troubles
The Science Behind HV Drying, De-shedding, De-matting & De-tangling
(Continued from page 32)
Take an essentially simple product or
concept and make it appear magical, as
if you can’t live without it. Some brands
offer one or two products that claim to
do everything, while others offer every
possible thing under the sun for your
convenience. It’s confusing, frustrating,
misleading at times and it really needs
to stop. But don’t hold your breath in
anticipation of that happening any time
in our lifetime.
I’m going to attempt clear things up. No
hype, no sales pitch…just the facts.
What if I told you that much of the hard
work can be accomplished with your HV
Dryer? Here’s how.
There is a definite balance which
threads together the key elements
required for managing a successful and
effective grooming business. Knowledge
of basic (1) Coat and Skin Physiology,
together with a simple understanding of
how (2) Grooming Liquids work is
critical for today’s professionals. Not
understanding these two elements
makes for an up-hill struggle of “trial
and error”, not to mention unnecessary
physical and mental anguish often
leading to burn out. In fact, mastering
these two elements leads to effectively
mastering other key elements like one’s
Tools/Equipment, Methods/Techniques
and Health/Safety protocols. After all,
professional grooming is a process.
Once you fully understand how to
effectively manipulate the coat by
smoothing over lifted cuticles, then you
can safely begin to master de-matting,
de-tangling and de-shedding with your
dryer without creating further hair
damage and with far less effort.
To begin with, consider what we know
about hair and coat types. The skin’s
sebaceous glands produce sebum, a
naturally oily substance which coats
and protects the hairs cuticles, sealing
in moisture. However, sebum is a virtual
dirt magnet, attracting unwanted debris
and oils. Washing hair removes sebum
and debris from the hair, yet exposes
cuticles regardless of how mild or harsh
the detergency is. Washing can
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Blow Away Your Troubles
The Science Behind HV Drying, De-shedding, De-matting & De-tangling
(Continued from page 33)
potentially strip away all of the hairs
protective sebum along with any other
added deposits, including conditioners.
Hair and skin are “anionic” or (-)
negatively charged by nature. As rough
adjacent hairs rub against each other,
there is a transfer of electrons produced
by the negative hairs repelling from
each other.
hair and skin, offering among other
things a multitude of desirable effects
necessary for safely de-shedding, dematting and de-tangling. So, pretreating
the coat will definitely make HV drying
more effective.
Try taking into account the hair’s
“Porosity” as well as the “pH levels” of
the liquid products to be used before
ever lifting a brush to an animal. Breed
coat types have low, medium or high
porosity characteristics.
© Best Shot Pet Products Intl., LLC. June 2014
This explains how “fly-away” static hair
occurs. Conversely the positive (+)
cationic surfactants in the conditioners
one uses are attracted to the anionic
Damaged hair has more open ragged
cuticles, while healthy hair has more
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Blow Away Your Troubles
The Science Behind HV Drying, De-shedding, De-matting & De-tangling
(Continued from page 34)
closed cuticles. Damaged coats trap
shedding undercoat or snag hair leading
to tangles and mats. The imagery
shown below really provides a sense of
how open cuticles snag and hook like
Velcro, fighting the groomer while
brushing.
with pH levels of 8.0 to 9.0 further open
lifted cuticles. Most groomers don’t
realize simply washing and rinsing with
warmer water temporarily lifts cuticles,
while rinsing with cooler water tends to
smooth the cuticle. Understand that
cuticle scales don’t exactly open and
shut like a hinged door, but they most
definitely can be treated during the
Source: University of Kentucky Electron Microscopy Department collaborative study
Shampoo and conditioner do not feed,
resuscitate, enliven or revive hair
because hair is not alive. It is nothing
more than dead protein, mainly keratin.
However, shampoo and conditioner with
pH levels from 5.0 to 6.5 can close lifted
cuticles to some extent, while shampoo
bathing process to achieve this result.
Now bear in mind that combing and
brushing are among the leading cause
for hair damage. This begs the question
as to why anyone would risk further
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Blow Away Your Troubles
The Science Behind HV Drying, De-shedding, De-matting & De-tangling
(Continued from page 35)
damaging the coat by pre-brushing,
without pre-treating the coat first with
products designed to repair damaged
areas and smooth over lifted cuticle
scales.
When engineered with advanced
silicones, cationic surfactants and
proteins shampoo and conditioners can
achieve the following desirable effects:
● Replace the protective sebum
stripped away by detergency
● Smoothen hair cuticles, keeping them
closed for long periods
● Protect hair from further damage
caused by brushing and combing
● Facilitate de-tangling, de-shedding, de
-matting brush out by adding slip and
reducing static
● Enable HV drying to virtually replace
one’s brushing, avoiding further
damage from grooming tools
● Decrease the drying time of any coat
type (conserve electricity, save time)
Bathe Before Brushing Method
These scientific facts explain why it is
easier to de-mat and detangle clean
treated hair versus dry filthy hair.
Volatile lightweight amino silicones
together with hydrolyzed or quaternized
proteins (+) found in today’s
professional pet shampoo and
conditioners have virtually no build-up
and will smooth the hair much better
than heavy pack conditioners made
with fatty lipids. Bathing with these
newer products eliminate the need for
most pre-bushing, saving you a ton of
time and aggravation.
3-Step Bathing Method
Now animals can go straight into the
washtub. This method incorporates
separate shampoo, conditioner, and
finishing spray steps utilizing amino
silicones, proteins and pH levels
between 5.0 and 6.5. Each step repairs
and further closes cuticles until finally
sealing the hair with a finishing spray.
Groomers quickly notice how most coat
types will safely release shedding
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Blow Away Your Troubles
The Science Behind HV Drying, De-shedding, De-matting & De-tangling
(Continued from page 36)
undercoat in the tub as they are bathed.
This means less stress for all, which is
great news!
treating with an amino silicone spray
now has, fully closing the cuticles,
sealing and protecting the coat as the
sebum was intended to do. Groomers
who practice this comment on how
Source: University of Kentucky Electron Microscopy Department collaborative study
The electron-microscopy images
pictured illustrate how overall effective
this practice is once the hair is treated
and dried. Slides 1 and 2 shows filthy
damaged Newfoundland hair neglected
for many months. Notice the open
cuticles and heavy grime build-up. Slide
3 shows how shampooing (Step 1) and
conditioning (Step 2) with amino
silicones and quaternized proteins
repairs much of the damage, leaving
the hair smooth and shiny. Slide 4
shows what a difference (Step 3)
coats appear full-bodied, comb easily,
and stay more manageable for weeks.
However, some groomers rely solely on
their conditioner or cream rinse for dematting, while still others rely totally on
a detangling spray. The problem here is
that the cuticle damage may be so
severely lifted that it would take
repeated treatments to smooth over
and repair them. Therefore the secret to
the 3-Step method lies in that it
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Blow Away Your Troubles
The Science Behind HV Drying, De-shedding, De-matting & De-tangling
© Best Shot Pet Products Intl., LLC. June 2014
(Continued from page 39)
efficiently treats the coat repeatedly,
once in each phase.
Brush-Less Drying Method
After treating the coat following the
above method, groomers will find that it
now enables their HV dryer to release
more shedding undercoat than ever
before. One can preferably use the dryer
in place of a brush, leaving many coats
virtually tangle and mat free. Once
completely dried, any lingering mats
and tangles work out with significantly
less effort and minimal damage to the
coat. You’ll find taking the cone nozzle
off allows more airflow for more
complete drying.
NOTE: Severely pelted coats are the
result of serious neglect over time and
have typically reached such a point that
they can’t be effectively treated or
saved. Festering sores and skin
conditions are commonly found
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Blow Away Your Troubles
The Science Behind HV Drying, De-shedding, De-matting & De-tangling
(Continued from page 40)
lingering underneath the accumulation
of felted matting which requires
shearing down the coat entirely.
However, now many groomers find they
can save more of the coat adhering to
the recommended products and
methods discussed above. Take for
example a thick abundant coat Cocker
Spaniel whose underbelly is severely
pelted. The groomer now has the option
of only removing the matted underbelly,
while saving the skirt and legs using
these methods. The client is now thrilled
and the dog keeps its dignity. A win/win
for sure!
CONCLUSION
many groomers still reserve their best
products for their biggest challenges,
and use lesser products for their routine
clients? If these wonder products are
that good, imagine what miracles they
could do if put to use daily. Ponder how
much time and effort would be saved,
not to mention the increase in revenue
potential each day.
There you have it! Put your blinders on
and look beyond any advertising hype or
farfetched product claims. Apply your
understanding of canine physiology with
today’s modern cosmetology chemistry
so you can choose the best product mix
and methods. Soon you’ll be making
masterpieces out of nightmares in
record time! ■
Look for a combination of Hydrolyzed or
Quaternized Proteins, together with
Amino Silicones or Silicone Quats in the
products you plan on using with these
methods. If the ingredients are not
listed on the bottle, most manufactures
will gladly assist you in determining
which of their products will work best.
AUTHOR DAVE CAMPANELLA has been with
Best Shot Pet Products for over ten years and
is director of sales & marketing. He has a
total twenty five years’ experience in the pet
services industry including co-owning and
operating a successful full-service grooming
salon, pet boutique and self-wash with his
wife Tracy. Dave‘s professional experience
spans three decades specializing in consumer
goods, new product development, direct
response marketing and advertising. See
www.bestshotpet.com for more information.
Here’s one final thought. Why is it that
© Best Shot Pet Products Intl. LLC. June 2014
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The Do’s
of Pet Styling
Education
By Mitzi Parrish, NCMG
President of Golden Paws
Are you are looking to begin or advance
your pet styling career? If so you need to
know how to choose a top quality
educational provider especially for the
foundation of your career.
(Continued on page 43)
Article by Mitzi Hicks, NCMG
Open a Golden Paws Schools Consultation
Golden Paws On-site Schools in USA
Distance Learning Program
See www.goldenpaws.com for more information.
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(Continued from page 42)
Are you an employer of pet stylists?
Employers must know which qualities and
skills to look for in graduates and where to
seek additional
training for
promising
employees.
In my grooming
career I have
enjoyed talking to
hundreds of future
pet stylists as well
as stylists looking
for continuing
education, and
their employers.
Each is seeking the
same goal, to
advance their
professional skills
for pet styling!
Professional pet stylists compile initial and
ongoing training with experience enabling
them to groom all breeds and pet designs.
Their knowledge must include pet
handling, safety and communication. They
must know the tools of the trade, and how
to use them on different coat types. The
same goes for products.
There are practical expectations to know
and practice proper sanitation and
cleanliness. Pet stylists do not work only
with pets but also people. They must have
client relations skills knowing how to
execute style consultations with
professional and ethical behavior and to
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organize client and pet information. Whew!
That is a lot of requirements. Actually this
list is incomplete but covers the most
important factors. Professional pet stylists
wear a lot of hats and have to be adept
with every one of
them.
In this light career
starters should
realize that their
educational goals
are far more
broad than
bathing and
styling techniques
alone. When they
get a more
rounded initial
education the
odds are better
they will be more
gainfully
employed.
Employers are desperately seeking
knowledgeable, skilled pet stylists who are
professional and ethical in addition to
performing the art of grooming. They need
pet stylists who won't harm pets and want
the best services for their owners, pets and
workplaces.
With all these goals in mind can you see
the objectives for a great pet styling
education? It is likely that friends and
family of career starts do not realize that
pet styling is more complicated subject as
you are learning here. Now you can
enlighten them and share the significant
demand for skilled pet groomers.
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(Continued from page 43)
Not all grooming training programs are the
same! Know what to look for in one. You
are spending money which is a significant
investment in your career. Your local
grooming school may not always be your
best choice based solely on its convenient
location. Too many unfortunate graduates
have spent a lot of money and time at
some schools only to learn they did not get
the training they needed to for a desired
position or as continuing education. It is
the responsibility of students to compare
programs offered to them. Students have
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other responsibilities. They must show up
on-time, listen to instructors and follow
school rules. The hours of grooming
courses fly by.
Commit to your program. Pet grooming is
not a dial in profession. Compare as many
schools as possible. Do they have:
Structured programs with multiple
instructional methods? Instructional text
books, videos, theories and practicals? You
can learn a great deal by observation. So
observe prospective schools. Your
educational success will parallel the moral
compass and qualities of the leadership
and personnel of the
school.
Expect step-by-step
instructional guides
teaching styling
skills with the
assistance of an
instructor(s). You will
take the instructional
material with you not
the instructor. The
instructor should be
trained in the
schools instructor
program and be
present at all times.
An assistant
instructor should be
available if the
instructor is not
present. Make sure
during your training
you will be grooming
(Continued on page 47)
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(Continued from page 44)
dogs with enough hair for styling because
that is the only way to develop your fine
finish skills that make a difference
between an average stylist, a
good or great stylist!
It is vital that you choose a school teaching
grooming on different coat types. Once you
learn your styling skills you can transfer
them to create any breed design or client
request by following the instructions in an
all-breed book or client instructions. While
training, even when the dog is getting
shaved, you should first be instructed to
put a design on the dog to practice your
styling skills before it gets shaved.
When you make an onsite visit of a school
observe the quality of their finished pets.
Do they look clean,
neat and well
balanced? Even if the
pet is shaved it should
still be clean, neat
and well balanced.
Whatever the school
or salon style is, that
is what you will be
learning!
Meet the instructor
and observe the class and the teaching
style. Is the school clean? Are the people
professional in looks and demeanor? Talk
to the students. Nearly all states require
schools to be licensed as educational
institutions. A state licensed school gives
you a school catalog and a enrollment
form outlining the program, hours and
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other vital information including a
complaint procedure should you ever need
it. When you graduate you will receive your
diploma or certificate, it depends on the
state on what it is called. You want a great
education so look well before you leap!
Some pet stylists want to improve their
styling skills through continuing education.
I admire these people, it says a lot about a
person who has been “grooming” 10-15
years and wants more continuing
education. This is then a good reminder to
career starters that pet grooming is not a
career that you can “pick up” on your own
and all at once!
Employers! Realize that graduates you
meet do not always reflect the competency
level of school programs. Students have
the responsibility to show up on time,
listen and learn.
Employers considering
hiring graduates should
contact their schools or
training programs and
check attendance
records. Was the job
candidate on time at
school? Did they follow
instruction? Different
states have
different vocational
education regulations governing schools
and grading systems may be as simple
pass or fail.
Many employers who are also groomers do
not have time to teach groomers. It costs
money to teach a person who may or may
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(Continued from page 47)
not stay or work out. In an even worse
situation are salon owners who don’t
know how to groom and are held hostage
by incapable “hostile” or “diva”
employees! Employers should not shy
away from hiring new graduates. As one of
my most respected friends and a leader in
the industry
said, “Why not
hire a school
graduate? They
are moldable
and you can
train them to
be the
employee you
want!”
Remember
they are
nervous and
will be slow in
the beginning.
It may benefit
employers to
give graduates a week or two of work on a
tryout basis and see how they settle in. If
they hold promise in their grooming and as
employees, consider supporting their
continuing education
desires.
Career seekers, experienced stylists and
employers need to know the differences
between certification, diplomas and
licensure. Currently it remains that there
is no U.S. state requiring pet stylists to
pass a test for vocational licensing similar
to cosmetology careers.
The public is vastly unaware of this fact.
Many new groomers never received a
formal education or training of any kind
because there are no requirements. It is
even possible for these “stylists” become
instructors. Career seekers or experienced
stylists seeking education should become
aware of their
instructors'
training.
The news is not
all dark. In fact,
because there are
so many
groomers without
formal training
those that do get
the training
should be able to
achieve greater
success and
better jobs.
State licensing is
likely to become a
reality in the future. If you want to stay
abreast of any state licensure on the
horizon consider joining PIJAC (Pet
Industry Joint Advisory Council at
www.pijac.org) for news alerts.
No licensure of pet stylists has passed,
because pet stylists got involved with
PIJAC or their state legislation to enlighten
them on some badly written bill
components. I believe in intelligent
licensing; Cosmetologists have state
licensing and it makes them a stronger
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(Continued from page 48)
profession for it. Unfortunately some state
legislators and non-industry people
introduce broad aspects of a licensing bill
that doesn’t address specific education,
practical skill level testing and safety.
These bills are too broad, confusing and
open to interpretation which is not good for
pet stylists, pets or clients. The Bills have
thus far rightfully been shut down. Our
industry would be stronger with a well
written, intelligent bill. All pet stylists need
to be a part of the solution of intelligent
licensing, as you do not want your career in
the hands of people who do not
understand our industry.
Support continuing education. Pet stylists
need continuing education to keep up with
industry standards and improve their core
skills.
Professional stylists will never or should
never stop learning. As early as 6 months
after graduating and working as a stylist
the door should open to more continuing
education. Some may want to consider
certification through an organization such
as the National Dog Groomers Association
(www.ndgaa.com).
I recommend this avenue to pet stylists
who want their skills tested through their
peers. By passing the skills tests, you will
become certified as a Master Groomer
(CMG). For a list of other certification
organizations visit www.petgroomer.com.
Never stop learning and growing in your
career!
Mitzi Parrish, NCMG, as a second generation
stylist, salon owner and educator began her
career at the age of 12. Mitzi has taken the 5
decades of educational experience and
developed the nationally licensed Golden
Paws Pet Styling Academies. A turnkey school
program which has successfully graduated
over a thousand students and allows qualified
salon owners to become a part of the Golden
Paws Educational experience benefitting
career seekers, pets, clients, the industry and
themselves both financially and personally.
“My greatest joy is seeing how a great
education can change the lives of students,
pets and clients in their care. Who could want
more?”
■
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Don’t Forget! Grease the Cutter Notch
by Jeff Andrews
I received a customer's Bravura and
several blades. She said the clipper was
burning and vibrating during her last
groom. Upon inspection I found nothing
wrong with the Bravura but the blades
had been melting while on the clipper.
I discovered the cutter notches on both
blades were melted and well-rounded
out. Apparently she cleaned the blades
with soap and water. Washing them this
way is fine. However, most soaps will
effectively clean the blades of necessary
oil and grease.
In the clipper head of your Wahl trimmer
there is a round white cam with a silver
post sticking out from it. This post sticks
in the cutter notch. As it spins it moves
the cutter back and forth on the blade to
make it cut. This silver post doesn't spin.
Its not on a bearing. It simply pushes on
the inside of that cutter notch and if not
lubricated it creates friction and resulting
heat.
This observation explained what
happened to her blades. The friction was
so great from not greasing the cutter
notch after washing, the revolving post
melted the insides of both cutter
notches.
Refer to the picture above of both cutter
notches. Look closely at the inside of the
notches and you'll see how they are
melted. Don’t forget the grease!
Visit the Northern Tails Sharpening
website for our lubrication guides. ■
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Northern Tails Sharpening, Inc.
You Now Have a Better Choice!
Mail-in Prices
Clipper Repair ● Veterinarian Equipment ● Beauty Shears
Steel Blades
$5.00
Ceramic Blades
$6.00
Beveled Shears
$5.00
Reg. Thinning Shears
$5.00
Convex Shears
$10.00
Refurbish 5-N-1 Blades
$10.00
Chunkers
$10.00
All Surgical
$5.00
We are an Andis Regional Distributor and Repair Center
Check out our website’s free instructional videos and articles helping you to
maintain your clippers and blades. It’s free to download!
Jeff is a Master Sharpener and Certified Pet Groomer. He knows how your
tools should perform. He won’t sharpen worn out tools which could harm
animals. His office will call you if any of your tools look bad.
Your tools should be returned to you in 7 to 12 days depending upon the post
office. See website for mailing instructions.
Please call or visit our website
for mailing information.
http://www.northerntails.com/
(251) 232-5353
SINCE 1995
www.northerntails.com
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Mobile, Alabama
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Clip Shoppe School of Dog Grooming
New Jersey - www.clipshoppeschoolofdoggrooming.com
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TWO Commission Rates for Every Groomer
Building Better
Wage Systems for
Both Groomers
and Employers
By www.groomingbusinessinabox.com
Authors face potential prejudice when
writing about compensation systems for
groomers. Often they are presupposed to
favor the plight of management versus
groomers struggling to earn more. In
fact, many authors simply avoid writing
about groomer compensation. Why stir
things up? At Grooming Business in a
Box® we relish writing about groomer
compensation systems as well as other
management issues.
It’s our purpose to destroy the
problematic fence between staff and
management relations. Our original book
From Problems to Profits: The Madson
Management System was a first step,
and the “Box” is another. We politely
challenge most of today’s grooming
management, mostly independents, to
treat personnel better, even legally. Have
you heard anyone else writing and
speaking so boldly about the dilemma of
misclassifying groomers as independent
contractors, or underpaying pet bathers?
We are going to introduce some simple
solutions. Up to 90% of groomers and
business owners with staff do not know
the information to be presented here.
Keep an open mind, the numbers tell
quite a story, not opinion.
There are two benefits from using our
Dual Rate Commission System. One is
for employers, and one is for employees.
(Continued on page 55)
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(Continued from page 54)
Eliminate mistaken claims relating to
employers seemingly making their
employed groomers “pay” pet bathers
as if they are secondary or substitute
employers.
Boost pet groomer wages while and yet
reduce gross payroll, and without asking
groomers to groom more pets or work
longer hours (yes it is possible).
Do you know how many groomers don’t
believe either benefit is possible?
Plenty. We don’t blame them. Most
business authors or employers don’t
“show their work” to back their claims
with clear financial proof. We do. Get
ready.
Employers often make a serious
mistake of semantics when they advise
their employed groomers they must
“pay” for bather support. Employers
cannot require employees to assume
the duties and responsibilities of being
employers in their businesses.
How does this happen? Many employers
use commission wage formulas paying
groomers percentages of grooming
service fees in return for grooming pets
start-to-finish with no bather support.
When employers have pet bathers on
staff situations may arise where
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commission groomers opt out of
bathing one or more pets a day.
Groomers being paid to bathe and style
pets should not get full commission
when they don’t groom start-to-finish.
Employers have to a wage calculation
formula to prevent overpaying start-tofinish groomers opting out of doing
services they are being paid for in their
commissions.
Unfortunately employers addressing this
situation often say to the start-to-finish
commission groomers, “You must pay
bathers when you don’t do the bathing.”
Danger! A can of worms has been
opened, even Pandora’s Box. Only
employers “pay” employees. Employed
groomers may use the “pay” term when
sharing with others how their wages are
calculated. Eventually someone
responds and reminds employees that
employers cannot make them “pay”
other employees. Suspicion barks.
Sparks fly. For the most part, the
problem is with semantics and it can be
avoided entirely.
This problem can become severe when
confused employees contact legal
assistance or government agencies
related to employment law. Neither
attorneys nor the government
understands pet groomer commission
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(Continued on page 59)
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GROOMER 1
GROOMER 2
GROOMER 3
Start-to-Finish Grooming
Finish Grooming Only
Finish Grooming Only
50% Commission
50% Commission
36% Commission
No Bather Assistance
Bather Support Requested
Bather Provided for All Pets
7 Start-to-Finish in 8 Hours
$8 Pet Deduction for Bather
12 Finish in 8 Hours
Same Prices and Pets
Groomed by Groomers 1-3
12 Finish in 8 Hours
Same Prices and Pets
Groomed by Groomers 1-3
Same Prices and Pets
Groomed by Groomers 1-3
Pet 1
$60.00
50% Wage $30.00
Pet 1
$60.00
50% Wage $30.00 (-) $8.00
Pet 1
$60.00
36% Wage $21.60
Pet 2
$55.00
50% Wage $27.50
Pet 2
$55.00
50% Wage $27.50 (-) $8.00
Pet 2
$55.00
36% Wage $19.80
Pet 3
$48.00
50% Wage $24.00
Pet 3
$48.00
50% Wage $24.00 (-) $8.00
Pet 3
$48.00
36% Wage $17.28
Pet 4
$56.00
50% Wage $28.00
Pet 4
$56.00
50% Wage $28.00 (-) $8.00
Pet 4
$56.00
36% Wage $20.16
Pet 5
$55.00
50% Wage $27.50
Pet 5
$55.00
50% Wage $27.50 (-) $8.00
Pet 5
$55.00
36% Wage $19.80
Pet 6
$64.00
50% Wage $32.00
Pet 6
$64.00
50% Wage $32.00 (-) $8.00
Pet 6
$64.00
36% Wage $23.04
Pet 7
$70.00
50% Wage $35.00
Pet 7
$70.00
50% Wage $35.00 (-) $8.00
Pet 7
$70.00
36% Wage $25.20
Pet 8
$72.00
50% Wage $0 1
Pet 8
$72.00
50% Wage $36.00 (-) $8.00
Pet 8
$72.00
36% Wage $25.92
Pet 9
$39.00
50% Wage $0 1
Pet 9
$39.00
50% Wage $19.50 (-) $8.00
Pet 9
$39.00
36% Wage $14.04
Pet 10
$74.00
50% Wage $0 1
Pet 10
$74.00
50% Wage $37.00 (-) $8.00
Pet 10
$74.00
36% Wage $26.64
Pet 11
$50.00
50% Wage $0 1
Pet 11
$50.00
50% Wage $25.00 (-) $8.00
Pet 11
$50.00
36% Wage $18.00
Pet 12
$42.00
50% Wage $0 1
Pet 12
$42.00
50% Wage $21.00 (-) $8.00
Pet 12
$42.00
36% Wage $15.12
TOTAL DAILY GROSS WAGE
TOTAL DAILY GROSS WAGE
TOTAL DAILY GROSS WAGE
$204.00
$246.50
$246.60
ANNUALIZED 2
ANNUALIZED 2
ANNUALIZED 2
$53,040.00
$64,090.00
$64,116.00
hour work limit reached with Pet 7 because Groomer
1 does all bathing-related duties.
2 $246.50 multiplied by 260 (the number of days worked in
a year 5 days (x) 52 weeks.
18
(Continued from page 55)
systems. The problem is employers could better use terms such as
“reimbursement” or “adjustment.” Even then, there are strict guidelines as to
what is to be reimbursed by grooming employees opting to use bathing support.
Employers using the term “bather reimbursement” instead of saying someone
else must “pay” their bathing employees are more correct. However, they are
(Continued on page 60)
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Stylists Bathing & Drying Dogs60 Rarely
Makes Financial
Sense
January
/ March 2015
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eGroomer Journal July / September 2014

Every time Groomer 1 bathes and dries pets wages suffer. Groomer 1’s wages are about
$11,000 a year lower than Groomers 2 & 3 grooming the same pets without bathing.

Providing bather support does not have to boost overall payroll costs. It can even lower them!

Freed from daily hours of bathing-related duties groomers finish more pets to boost their
wages even after deductions for bather support. Groomers 1, 2 & 3 work 8 hours a day.
Groomers 2 & 3 each do 5 more pets a day boosting their gross wages about $11,000 a year
more than Groomer 1, and their employer enjoys $247 more a day in gross sales too. It’s a
true win-win situation.

Lower commissions do NOT always mean lower wages. Adjusting rates for bather support
can mean equal or higher wages. Groomer 3 works the same hours doing the same pets as
Groomer 1 and grooming fees are equal for both. Groomer 3 at 36% earns $11,000 a year
more gross wages than Groomer 1 paid 50% commission rate. As a result, Groomer 1 pays
the price simply for bathing pets!
(Continued from page 59)
still wading in potentially troubled
waters. How are employers figuring the
reimbursement amount? They had
better be able to explain how they
calculate bathing reimbursements when
asked by employed groomers, or
representatives of employment law and
tax agencies.
What is the problem we see? Employers
should not require the full-charge
groomers to reimburse them for any
costs related to benefits, payroll taxes,
workers compensation, unemployment
insurance and similar employer-related
costs. Otherwise they are once again
coloring the affected groomers as if
they are employers. Employed groomers
are never employers of pet bathers
assisting them!
review the gross wages of bathers and
to figure approximately the average
gross wage of their bathers per pet. It’s
simple to do.
Employers first state and publish their
expected performance standards for
experienced bathers. The standards
should be stated in related job
descriptions and agreements. There are
examples in the book From Problems to
Profits.
Assume a pet bather is paid $12.00 an
hour and they average 12 bathing
assignments in 8 hours, no overtime.
What is the average time spent by the
bather per pet? Divide 8 hours by 12
pets and the answer is an average of 40
minutes per bathing assignment.
Remember this figure is an average.
Don’t complicate calculations figuring
(Continued on page 61)
IteGroomer
is more
correct for employers to
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(Continued from page 60)
for occasional dematting sessions
which extend work time. We are looking
for a reasonable, general average
bathing time per pet by experienced
bathers.
When the hourly wage is $12.00 an
hour, 40 minutes is $8.00 gross wages.
The overall average cost of gross pet
bather wages is $8.00 per pet for this
business. Expect variations between
businesses when compared.
In the example above, the employer
now has a general pet bather
reimbursement fee of $8.00. It only
addresses gross wages and no other
employer-related costs.
Whenever employed groomers paid by
commission for start-to-finish work opt
out of bathing and use their employer’s
bathers, they adjust their gross
commission wages deducting $8.00 per
pet not bathed. In this way, employed
groomers are not literally “paying” for
bathers. They are not creating
paychecks. They are reducing their
paychecks avoiding overpayment for
work they did not do.
The “per pet” reimbursement system is
not perfect. Every employer should
review this system with their company
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attorney for compliance with state and
local law before implementing it. The
per pet system has been widely used for
decades, whether its proper use was
verified or not. Where it is used,
employer communications with affected
groomer employees often creates
confusion. Employer semantics make it
sound as if the employed groomers are
acting as employers ‘paying’ bathers
instead of simply reducing their gross
commission wages to compensate for
opting out of their commission paid
bathing duties. We suggest simplicity.
How about something altogether
different with no legal confusion
between employer and employee
status? We call it the “Dual Rate
Commission System.”
It favors both employees and
employers. We’re straddling the fence
between them and saying sometimes
new ideas actually work well for both.
Here’s the magic and absolute proof.
The concept of a Dual Rate Commission
System is simple. Unfortunately most
employers don’t know how to do the
relatively easy calculations, and how to
prove its benefits to their employees.
The system is easily applied to any pet
grooming business paying by
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(Continued on page 64)
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(Continued from page 61)
commission and employing bathing
staff. Instead of one commission rate
universally applied to every grooming
assignment for start-to-finish grooming,
there is a second commission rate. It
applies only to those grooming
assignments where full-charge
groomers paid for start-to-finish
grooming opt out of bathing and use
their employer’s pet bather services.
COMMIISSION RATE #1
Commission Rate 1 is the highest rate
because groomers spend more time
grooming pets start-to-finish without pet
bather support.
COMMISSION RATE #2
Commission Rate 2 is lower because
groomers spend less time grooming
and have the assistance of pet bathers.
More important, Commission Rate 2
also allows full-charge groomers to
groom more pets per day and earn
more.
Don’t be mistaken! Rate 2 does not
mean lower gross wages. Groomers
using the lower Rate 2 in our system
actually earn significantly higher wages
than Rate 1 groomers working the
same hours, and grooming the same
pets at the same prices. No tricks here!
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This is rarely known by groomers today.
Setting the Commission Rate 2 correctly
is important, and it must be fair to
employed groomers. Again, it’s easy.
Fortunately we have a good start to set
a correct Commission Rate 2. Earlier in
this article we discovered the average
time to bathe and dry a pet (including
nails and ears) was 40 minutes. We
also stated the bather was paid $12.00
an hour, and therefore 40 minutes of
gross bather wages (before taxes) was
$8.00 per pet. You will need to figure
the per pet fee based on your operation.
Commission Rate 2 actually reimburses
the employer about $8.00 per pet when
employed groomers opt out of bathing
and request bather support.
Using Commission Rate 2 for affected
grooms means no more counting
bathing reimbursements and
deductions from gross wages as did
Groomer 2 in the illustration on page
39. Instead, groomers and employers
track how many grooming assignments
are paid at Commission Rate 1 and how
many at Commission Rate 2. Simple!
Setting Commission Rate 2 need not be
a challenge. It’s commonly between
35% to 38% for most businesses when
its other groomers doing state-to-finish
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(Continued on page 65)
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(Continued from page 64)
grooming including bathing are paid
50%. Follow this procedure below.
Working with our previous example, we
want to reduce Commission Rate 1 to
recoup about $8.00 per pet. In our
experience we discovered Commission
Rate 2 is usually 12% to 15% less than
50%. Start there and test the results.
Total Grooming Fee $60.00
Commission Rate 1
50%
Groomer’s gross wage is $30.00.
Commission Rate 2
35%
Groomer’s gross wage is $21.00.
The difference between $30.00 and
$21.00 is $9.00. That’s too high. Our
goal is $8.00, not $9.00.
Let’s redo our calculations assuming
Commission Rate 2 is 37%.
Commission Rate 1
50%
Groomer’s gross wage is $30.00.
Commission Rate 2
37%
Groomer’s gross wage is $22.20.
The difference between $30.00 and
$22.20 is $7.80. We’re close enough to
$8.00 and without going over.
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and no need to further calculate
reimbursements for bather support in
the future.
Perception is important. Employees will
balk at the Dual Rate Commission
System unless it is properly explained,
and even lose sight they can increase
their wages without bathing.
When introduced to the Dual Rate
Commission System some groomers
are sure to think they are earning less
accepting 37%. Yes they are, but no less
than if they were paid 50% and
deducted $8.00 bather reimbursement
fees where applicable. In fact, with
Commission Rate 2 shown above they
get paid 20 cents more. They must also
realize they can groom more pets when
freed from bathing and boost their
paychecks.
Sit down with full-charge groomers and
patiently explain to them clearly what
you learned here. Provide examples,
including the illustration on page 59. In
about 30 minutes they should catch on.
Remind them, pet groomers that never
bathe earn more income than start-tofinish only groomers when both work 8
hours? Make sure they understand the
difference between Groomers 2 and 3
and how they earned about $11,000 a
Now we have our two commission rates
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(Continued from page 65)
year more in gross wages working the
same hours, grooming the same pets at
the same prices. Numbers don’t lie.
Wait! When previous start-to-finish
groomers no longer bathe they will earn
less unless you give them more styling
assignments to fill 8 work hours daily.
Expect some or all of your employed
groomers to balk at change. They may
have a vice grip on reasons why they
must bathe.
Some full-charge groomers believe they
must bathe and dry their pets because
bathers won’t bathe and dry pets as
well as they can. If that is true who is to
blame? Management. We trained and
employed expert bathers that did every
bath perfect, or they had to redo their
work. No exceptions. When stretchdrying was needed, every curl had to be
hand stretch-dried with a brush. The
force of any HV dryer is not enough to
adequately stretch dry in our opinion.
Assure your full-charge groomers that
every bathing assignment will be to
their standards, and make it happen.
Our Bathing Department Supervisor
(see From Problems to Profits book)
ensured every bathing assignment was
quality control checked before going to
finish groomers. Simple solution.
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January / March 2015
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Implement the position straight away to
enjoy fewer problems.
Some full-charge groomers have reason
to exert control over their grooms for
other reasons, sometimes kept secret.
You may have to peel layers like those
of an onion to discover why they feel the
need for ardent control. Most reactions
come from past issues working in less
than well-managed businesses.
You should have fewer problems when
employees realize the full impact of this
information when explained well. Show
them how Groomer 1 is losing $11,000
a year in gross wages simply by doing
all bathing related duties.
Common sense efficiency experts
reviewing the steps of a full groom
immediately note that any work done by
the highest paid employees (full charge
groomers) that could be done by other
employees paid less (bathers) means
both profit drain for employers, and
potential loses for employees in a fair
compensation system. It never makes
financial sense for full-charge groomers
to do duties associated with pet
bathers. It costs them dearly in wages,
and for the owner it depresses gross
sales when groomers could be
grooming more pets daily. ♦
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TOPICS IN PAST ISSUES - Read in archive at www.egroomer.com
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Community News
American Cocker Spaniel Styling, see January-March 2012 Issue
Appointment Scheduling Systems, see July-September 2013 Issue
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It’s FREE to list your pet
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business in the Find A
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Owners. Thousands of
listings. Get yours at:
Bedlington Terrier Styling, see July-September 2013 Issue
Bichon Frise Puppy Styling, see October-December 2012 Issue
Building Design, see October-December 2011 Issue
Buying Existing Grooming Businesses for Sale, see April-June 2012 Issue, April-June 2013 Issue
Canine Hair Growth, see October-December 2011 Issue
Career Paths in Grooming, see January-March 2012 Issue
Cat Grooming, see July-September 2011 Issue, October-December 2012 Issue
Cat Groomer Certification, see July-September 2011 Issue
Client Rating Systems, see July-September 2011 Issue
Client Relations, see July-September, 2011 Issue, July-September 2013 Issue
Clipper Blades - Cutting Heights, see July-September 2011 Issue
www.findagroomer.com
Commissions and Wages, see January-March 2012 Issue, October-December 2012 Issue
Classifieds Since 1997
Competition Photography, July-September 2011, October-December 2011, January-March 2012 Issues
www.petgroomerads.com
#1 Buy & Sell Ads
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Cooling Hot Blades, see October-December 2011 Issue
Cordless Batteries, see April-June 2013 Issue
Creative Grooming, see April-June 2012 Issue
Demographics of Groomers, see July-September 2011 Issue, January-March 2012 Issue
Drying Counters, see October-December 2011 Issue
Financing Mobile Grooming Vehicles, see July-September 2011 Issue
Floor Plans for Grooming Businesses, see October-December 2011 Issue
Grooming Business Revenue, see July-September 2011 Issue, July-September 2013 Issue
Grooming Prices, see July-September 2011, October-December 2011, January-March 2012 Issues
Continued on next page.
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Heads & Tails Styling for Mixed Breeds, see October-December 2011, January-March 2012, April-June 2012
Independent Contractors in Grooming, see October-December 2011 Issue, January-March 2012 Issue, AprilJune 2013 Issue, July-September 2013 Issue
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Mobile Grooming, see July-September 2011 Issue, January-March 2013 Issue
Myths and Misunderstandings in the Grooming Industry, see January-March 2012 Issue
National Cat Groomers Association, see July-September 2011 Issue
Noise Abatement in Building Design, see October-December 2011 Issue
Opening a Pet Grooming School, see April-June 2013 Issue
Pet Bathers, see October-December 2012 Issue, July-September 2013 Issue
Pet First Aid & Kits, see July-September 2011 Issue, January-March 2012 Issue
Post Clipping Hair Alopecia - Hair Cycle Arrest, see April-June 2012 Issue
pH of Shampoos, see July-September 2011 Issue
Poodle, see July-September 2011 Issue
Productivity Worksheets for Groomers, See January-March 2012 Issue
Profitability in Grooming, see July-September 2011 Issue
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Pseudomonas Aeruginosa, see July-September 2011 Issue & Link Provided in Article to Dr. Brian Weeks
Classifieds Since 1997
Quality vs. Quantity, see January-March 2012 Issue
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Setting Grooming Time Standards, see April-June 2012 Issue
Sharpening, see July-September 2011, October-December 2011, January-March 2012 Issues
Silicones, see January-March 2013 Issue, July-September 2013 Issue
Sinus Infection, see July-September 2011 Issue
Snap-on Combs - Sizes and Cut Lengths, see July-September 2011 Issue
Staff Meetings for Pet Groomers, see April-June 2012 Issue
Styling Aids for Canines, see October-December 2011 Issue
Surveys of Groomers, see July-September 2011, January-March 2012, October-December 2012 Issues
Teddy Bear Head Styling, see January-March 2012 Issue
Working Relationships in Grooming, see October-December 2011 Issue
Zoonotic Diseases, see July-September 2011 Issue
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Sponsors Only Buyer’s Guide 2015
◊ DIAMOND LEVEL SPONSORS ◊
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Tag Along Mobile Grooming Trailers
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APPAREL & MASKS
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MOBILE / SERVICES / SOFTWARE / HOME STUDY
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ASSOCIATIONS
World Pet Association / SuperZoo
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SHARPENING & REPAIR
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Shake Your Tail Pet Manage. Software
123Pet Software (DaySmart)
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EMPLOYMENT-JOBS
♦ PETCO Groomer Employment
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PetSuites of America Employment
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TRADE EVENTS
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INSURANCE
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MOBILE GROOMING
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Forever Stainless Steel
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Governor Insurance
Groom Classic Trade Show
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Groomers Best, Inc.
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Healthy Spot Groomer Employment
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Intergroom Trade Show
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www.learn2groomdogs.com
www.lovessharpening.com
www.madramormud.com
www.dogdryer.com
www.nationaldoggroomers.com
www.northerntails.com
www.osterpro.com
www.pawsitiveeducationaltraining.com
www.petextreme.com
www.petvalu.com
www.petco.com
www.petedge.com
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www.petsensellc.com
www.petsuitesamerica.com
www.plaqclnz.com
www.quadrupedpetcare.com
www.ryanspet.com
www.shakeyourtail.com
www.shampoolady.com
www.showseasonproducts.com
www.smartpractice.com/vet
www.snydermfg.com
www.caninegroomingsecrets.com
www.superzoo.org
www.mobilegroomingtrailersforsale.com
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www.tablesntubs.com
www.wagntails.com
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www.wisconsinpetstylists.org
www.wilco.coop
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Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (WI)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (MT)
Golden Paws Schools
Golden Paws School of Dog Styling (TX)
Groomadog Academy (SC)
Groomer Training Center (PA)
Institute of Technical Arts (FL)
Just Four Paws Academy of Pet Styling (PA)
Michigan School of K9 Cosmetology
Nanhall Professional School of Grooming (NC)
O.C. Academy of Pet Styling (CA)
Oregon Pet Grooming Academy
Paragon Pet Grooming School (MI)
Pets Playground Grooming School (FL)
Nanhall Professional School of Grooming (NC)
Sensational Stylings Academy of Grooming (IL)
South Carolina School of Dog Grooming
Texas Allbreed Grooming School
Zoom Zoom Groom Academy of Grooming (Canada)
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Publications
www.academyofdoggrooming.com
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www.canine-clippers.com
www.cindyscaninecompanions.com
™
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Courtesy of the professionals
at Grooming Business in a BoxPage
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PetGroomer.com Magazine
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January / March 2015
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
77
PetGroomer.com Publications
It’s commonly known that all brands of A-5 blades fit any brand of A-5 clippers. What is not commonly known relates to blade sizes. Most brands of A-5
blades have similar sizes, but how they perform varies. Manufacturers must use design differences in order to avoid patent and copyright
infringement. The most common difference between brands is the blade thickness. Similar manufacturer sizes may cut at different heights. You could
be in for a surprise if you change brands of the same size blade only to discover the cut is different! For your convenience Jeff at Northern Tails
Sharpening prepared the multiple manufacturer reference charts below for blades and snap-ons. Be sure to check Jeff’s web site at
www.northerntails.com for more helpful articles, videos and descriptions of his mail-in services. ♦
Clipper Blade Cutting Heights by Manufacturer
BLADE
BLADE
MASTER
SIZE
CUT
GRM.TOOLS
#
Inches
MM
LAUBE
WAHL
MM
MM
KLEAN
CUT
OSTER
ANDIS
MM
MM
MM
50
1/125
0.2
0.2
0.5
0.2
0.2
0.2
40
1/100
0.3
0.3
0.6
0.1
0.3
0.3
35
3/50
—
—
—
—
—
0.4
30
1/50
0.5
0.5
0.8
0.2
0.5
0.5
15
3/64
1.2
1.0
1.3
1.0
1.2
1.2
10
1/16
1.6
1.5
1.8
1.5/1.6
1.0
1.5
10W
3/32
2.4
—
—
—
—
—
9
5/64
2.0
2.0
2.0
1.5
1.0/2.0
2.0
8.5
7/64
2.8
2.8
—
—
2.0
2.8
7
1/8
3.2
3.2
4.0
3.2
3.0
3.2
5
1/4
6.4
6.4
6.0
6.3
6.0
6.3
4
3/8
9.5
9.6
8.0
9.5
9.0
9.5
3
1/2
12.7
13.0
10.0
12.0
13.0
12.0
5/8HT
5/8
15.9
16.0
—
—
—
16.0
3/4HT
3/4
—
—
—
—
—
19.0
T-84
3/16
—
—
—
—
—
2.4
Snap-On Comb Sizes & Cut Lengths by Manufacturer
COMB
LAUBE SELF ADJ
WAHL
SIZE
& X-LARGE
STAINLESS STEEL
#
Inches
MM
MDC ROMANI
MM
OSTER
MILLERS
UNIVERSAL
FORGE
MM
MM
1/16
1/16
1/8
1/8
1/4
1/4
1/2
3/4
9/16
1/2
3/4
3/4
0
7/8
5/8
5/8
1
5/8
1/2
1/2
1
5/8
1 1/4
1 1/4
1 1/2
1/2
2
3/8
3
5/16
4
3/16
3/8
3/8
5
1/16
1/8
A
1
3/4
B
1 1/4
C
1 1/2
D
1 3/4
2
E
eGroomer Journal
1 5/8Subscribe Free
S www.egroomer.com
7/8
7/16
1/2
3/8
3/8
5/16
5/16
1/4
3/16
1/16
Both charts provided courtesy of
Northern Tails Sharpening
251-232-5353
1
www.northerntailssharpening.com
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