Grooming Inventory

Breathe easy
ConCool mouthwash, Weltec
A rigorous dental routine is a
given but this breath-freshening
beauty is great for a pre-meeting
reset. Osaka-based Weltec
launched this ConCool F formula
in 1991 and it is well loved and
widely available in its native
Japan. Depending on your
preferred dilution, this unassuming (but long-lasting) 100ml bottle
contains enough mouthwash for
up to 700 gargles. — jt
weltecnet.co.jp
Talk of the town
Koh-I-Noor toothbrush
Italian brand Koh-I-Noor may now
produce everything from furniture
to mirrors (via stationery and
brushes) but its toothbrushes
remain its first and most iconic
product. Since the company
relocated from Bratislava in the
1950s it has manufactured these
handsome celluloid pieces from
its factory in Tradate, Italy.
For the fussy, its bristles come
in six grades of stiffness for gums
of varying sensitivity. The softest
option is in badger hair. Any
would be nicely paired with
Couto’s minty fluoride-free
paste from Portugal. — chr
koh-i-noor.it; couto.pt
Grooming
Inventory
Preface
Our favourite grooming kits from
around the world will keep you
preened, trimmed and well-kempt,
whatever challenges your business
brings and wherever in the world it
takes you.
Editors
Josh Fehnert & Chiara Rimella
Still life
David Sykes
Squeaky clean
Soap, Le Baigneur
French soap-maker Fabien Meaudre launched Le Baigneur in 2012
to meet men’s growing expectations for quality skin care (and natty
packaging, it seems). Le Baigneur creates natural soaps using
organic aloe-vera pulp, calendula, honey and a variety of plant oils
and butters.
The soap factory stays true to the French know-how of the
cold-process production method, preserving each and every one of
the ingredients’ nourishing properties. Every soap is handmade at
Meaudre’s Montreuil workshop. — jog
lebaigneur.fr
Barber
House
—
Bavaria’s best
shaves and
tidiest
trims
Wall wonders
—
Our ideal bathroom interiors (the tactile tiles that line this month’s
grooming goodies) come courtesy of Thai manufacturer Cotto.
The Piero Lissoni-designed pieces were released this year.
cotto.co.th
Makes the cut
Barber House, Munich
Dirk Schlobach’s Barber House
is Munich’s go-to for gentlemen
who value a neatly trimmed beard
and sharp haircut when they
are in the Bavarian capital. The
shop’s formally trained barbers
tend to their patrons with steady
hands and unwavering skill while
offering customers a choice of
espresso, whiskey or beer.
“Our customers should relax,
forget the outside world and treat
themselves to some downtime,”
says Schlobach (pictured
below, right), who furnished the
barbershop with a selection of
antiques. Treatments are named
after men of note: for example,
The Hemingway features the likes
of head massages, haircuts and
shaves with skin-soothing products by the likes of Saxony-based
Mühle Organic. — mss
barberhouse.com
issue 86 — 209
edits
Grooming
Bobbing along
Baby range, Interapothek
Spanish retailer Interapothek
sells a range of cheerfully
packaged first-aid items
alongside its skin, hair and
suncare products for adults
and babies alike.
Its latest children’s range
includes delicate shampoo,
bathing gel and body milk, which
Tt 50
are made with oats, calendula
and soothing shea butter. These
ice-cream cone-shaped bottles
are designed to float for added
bath-time enjoyment. — mls
interapothek.es
On the scent
Officina di Santa Maria Novella,
Florence
“Every time I walk in I get the
same sensation of when, as a
10-year-old boy, I came here for
the first time with my greatgrandmother. It’s a feeling of
peace,” says Officina di Santa
Maria Novella’s president Eugenio
Alphandery. “I’m in love with this
shop.” First opened to the public
by the Florentine monastery’s
Dominican friars in 1612, this
quiet, museum-like apothecary
has been selling cosmetic concoctions for more than 400 years.
Many of the friars’ revered
original techniques have been
updated through the workshop’s
custom-built machinery. Take the
time to go for a walk in the nearby
garden, where aromatic herbs
are grown: Balsamite (a strain
of mint) is the main ingredient
for the Officina’s staple Acqua,
however the most prized scent is
the Acqua della Regina, which is
named after Florentine noblewoman and Queen of France
Caterina de Medici, who swore by
its citrusy notes when she wore it
in the 16th century. — chr
smnovella.it
Rock your body
Shower gel, Frederic Malle
A decade since launching his first three shower gels,
Parisian perfumer Frédéric Malle has created a new
range of body washes. Our favourite is En Passant, an
elixir made with the help of Olivia Giacobetti, a former
perfumer and founder of French retailer Iskia. — jaf
fredericmalle.com
Nailed it
Manicure set, Alpen
From its base in Premana,
Lombardy, Alpen has seen its
scissors and sharp-looking
manicure sets finding their way
into tailors and hairdressers
throughout Italy.
Famed for their fine metalwork,
the town’s craftsmen have been
busy perfecting their pointy tools
since 1964. Every nail-care set is
made from stainless steel and is
then sandblasted for a subtle
matte finish. — chr
alpen-premana.com
Saint
Charles
—
Austrian charm
in dark-wood
surrounds
210 — issue 86
Doctor’s orders
Saint Charles Apothecary, Vienna
This apothecary in Vienna’s sixth district is a study in
complementary contrasts: tradition meets innovation;
ethics and ecology meet luxury. In 2006, Alexander
Ehrmann and business partner Martin Rohla rebranded
a pharmacy dating from 1886, combining modern aesthetics with old-school knowledge (Ehrmann’s family
has been in pharmacy for six generations).
The Saint Charles line consists of plant-based
pharmaceuticals, herbal cosmetics, food supplements
and fragrances: spices, roots and extracts from the
Austrian countryside sit on ornate shelves. You can get
normal aspirin here but Saint Charles believes there’s a
herb for every ailment (and you should try that first). An
online store is finally in the works too. — kb
saint.info
Previous page: Image: Jan Scheutzow.
This spread: Photographers: Simone Donati, Tom Linecker, Kohei Take
Neat and tidy
Horn combs, Gerson
Gerson’s compact combs are made in Ariège from
blonde or brown-coloured horn and can easily slip
in a jacket pocket to keep your hair tidy. Available
in a range of sizes, these pretty items reduce static
when brushing and will last for decades. — chr
gerson.fr; buly1803.com
Young folk
Anti-ageing creams and serums, Royal Fern
German dermatologist Dr Timm Golueke’s Royal Fern
is a skincare collection of eye and face creams and
serums. The refreshing unguents are made of extracts
from a moisture-rich fern, offering protection from the
elements and keeping your skin supple. — lkc
royalfern.de
Smooth operator
Hand cream, Trehs
Life in South Tyrol in northern
Italy revolves around the glorious
mountainous peaks that pepper
the region. And it’s the rare plants
and botanicals that grow here
that form the heart of Trehs’
quality recipes.
The smell of this hydrating
handcream puts you in mind
of an alpine walk among the
evergreens. The pine oil within
it soothes and strengthens
sensitive skin. — chr
trehs.com; trunkclothiers.com
Face value
F Miller, Toronto
Torontonian fashion stylist
Fran Miller decided to
develop her own line of
cosmetics. “I couldn’t find a
product that was effortless
and all natural so I began
experimenting with botanical
oils,” she says of the
two-year process that
resulted in this line. Glowing
reviews heartened her
enough to launch her brand
last August. She uses grapeseed oil, avocado, apricot
kernels and more. — jzl
fmillerskincare.com
Foot in the door
Brift H, Aoyama, Tokyo
Since he opened his peerless
shoe-care salon in 2008, Yuya
Hasegawa (pictured) – who can
always be seen dressed in a finely
cut suit – has made it his mission
to turn the humble job of shoeshining into a fine art. Services at
Brift H include shoe repair, stain
removal, recolouring and a polish
like you’ve never seen before.
Boots, belts and bags can all
be revived too.
Hasegawa and his team use
handmade brushes designed by
Edoya, a specialist shoe-brush
maker in Tokyo, and are even
willing to make home and office
visits. He also sells his own line
of shoe-polishing products and
runs a small shop-in-shop branch
at Bloom and Branch just a few
blocks away. — fw
brift-h.com
issue 86 — 211
Tt 50
Old ways are the best
Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami, Istanbul
Built by architect Mimar Sinan in
the late 16th century, this spa is a
homage to the great 16th-century
admiral Kilic Ali Pasa. Once a
crumbling wreck, the shop was
sympathetically restored in 2011
and now offers a high-end hamam
ritual using refined verbena-infused
soaps. (Unlike some of its more
murky competitors, the plumbing
here is squeaky clean.)
Despite the abundance of
soft, white pestamals and the
killim-lined hardwood dressing
rooms, the treatment on offer is still
traditional. Lie on a heated marble
platform and look up at a dripping
dome while plump attendants
exfoliate you from top to toe and
then lather you in clouds of soapy
bubbles. The most staggering
feature of any visit is a languorous stint in the camegah (lounge)
where patrons can loll, snooze and
drink sweet sherbets on soft linencovered cushions under a majestic
dome. — sg
kilicalipasahamami.com
Sense and smell
Fueguia, Buenos Aires
Julian Bedel may have a background in music but he brings
a scientific attention to detail
to the perfumer he co-founded
with Amalia Amoedo in Recoleta,
Buenos Aires, in 2010. Fueguia
1833 is named after Patagonian
native Fueguia Basket, who was
kidnapped by Charles Darwin to
research The Origin of the Species;
the plants of Argentina’s austral
extremities also inspire the brand.
Perfumes cooked in Fueguia’s
laboratory contain everything from
copaiba to tuberose, while the
bottles come in a wooden box
made from reclaimed Patagonian
coihue and lenga wood. The brand
recently opened a second Buenos
Aires shop inside Casa Cava,
Palermo, alongside a showroom
in Milan. Further expansion into
Asia is also slated. — ejs
fueguia.com
Cool down
Prickly heat powder,
Snake Brand
Dreamt up in the scorching heat
of Bangkok and still prepared to a
60-year-old recipe, Snake Brand’s
prickly heat powder offers relief
from warm weather. The remedy
is lightly perfumed with essential
oils and menthol but also
available in lavender, citrus, floral
and ocean-scented varieties.
For the best protection from
humidity, sprinkle on dry skin
after a shower. — chr
britishdispensary.com;
trunkclothiers.com
About face
Face wipes, Yojiya
Well known for its ultra-thin
aburatorigami (paper face wipes),
the Kyoto-based brand Yojiya is
a cosmetics company that was
founded in 1904. Once beloved
of famous actresses on the city’s
film circuit, after a while the
company grew and expanded
its product and retail range to
include men.
The brand’s sunscreen and
wet wipes may also be useful
additions to your tote in the sticky
summer months. — jt
yojiya.co.jp
Take two
Buly 1803, Paris
The pharmacy Buly was known in
the 18th century for its strong ablution and skin-tone vinegar. Today
l’Officine Universelle Buly is reborn
in Paris on Rue Bonaparte with a
slightly different name but entering
the shop is like a trip to the past.
When they are not travelling
the word, Ramdane Touhami and
Victoire de Taillac-Touhami are in
the shop explaining each product.
From the smell of its candles to
the origami packaging, every detail
inside is spectacular. — dhz
buly1803.com
212 — issue 86
Animal matters
Razor and brush, Hone Shaving
“I wanted to present an alternative
version of masculinity, one that was
about quiet strength,” says Dutch
industrial designer Andrew Mitchell.
His Hone Classic razor is machined
from solid bronze and has a
weighty in-hand feel. A secure
point of balance allows for smooth,
controlled strokes, while a
replaceable double-edged blade
makes it fit for daily shaves. Both
the razor and its (ethically-sourced)
horse-and-badger hairbrush are
set for release in late 2015. — mka
hone-shaving.com
One to watch
Bamford Grooming Department,
London
Launched by George Bamford
(known for Bamford Watch
Department), this range is a timely
addition to your bathroom cabinet.
A moisturiser, face wash and shave
oil are held in tactile containers.
“Vetiver was inspired by my father
as it is one of my childhood
memories to have him spray that
smell,” says Bamford. — jaf
bamfordgroomingdepartment.com
Photographers: serra akcan, Trent McMinn, Image: Alexandre Guikenger
edits
Grooming
Dress to impress
Sportswear detergent and shoe brush,
Tangent Garment Care
Inspired by his ever-dapper grandfather, David
Samuelsson co-founded his laundry and shoe-care
brand Tangent Garment Care. For activewear, try
the TGC045 detergent. — je
tangentgc.com
In good taste
Chewing gum, Lotte
Full Swing
Lotte has produced chewing gum
since it was founded in 1948 in the
Japanese capital. And it’s not just
the copywriting (which suggests its
product is okuchi no koibito, or “the
sweetheart of your mouth”) that’s
maintained its popularity.
One of its long-selling stalwarts
is the Cool Mint variety adorned
with a penguin mascot, adopted
after the company sponsored an
Antarctic expedition in 1956. The
Xylitol series is a recent hit. — jt
lotte.co.jp
Fit and trim
Clippers, Daito-Thrive
Built in the design lineage of Dieter Rams’
pared-down clippers for German brand Braun,
this starkly simple Japanese-made trimmer is our
favourite find for beards. Battery-operated and
lightweight, the cordless portable HB 300 comes
with a small brush and lubricating oil to keep its
blades from blunting.
Better known for its popular massage chairs and
home-fitness equipment, the Osaka-based company
started making hair trimmers in 1933. Its clippers are
now a staple of hair salons and the firm even has a
line of fur trimmers for overly hirsute pooches. — chr
daito-thrive.co.jp
Sensuous scents
Couverture and the Garbstore,
London
Notting Hill’s Couverture and
The Garbstore, a homeware and
fashion retailer we’re always happy
to idle in, is expanding with a new
cosmetics range. Its candles,
perfumed oils and incenses contain
notes of bergamot, pink pepper,
geranium and frankincense and the
range includes home and personal
fragrances. The rich scents and
patterned packaging are influenced
by founder Emily Dyson’s trips to
the Turkish Coast. — tw1
couvertureandthegarbstore.com
issue 86 — 213
edits
Grooming
Hair of the horse
Brushes, Iris Hantverk
Beginning in the late 19th century, Iris Hantverk’s
brushes are hand-strung by visually impaired
craftsmen. Made from fine horsehair, the bristles on
the Swedish company’s brushes are hardwearing but
soft enough to be used directly on the skin. — je
irishantverk.se
Clean break
Gellért Baths, Budapest
Very few cities can match
Budapest’s thermal wealth and
over 100 springs bring warm
waters to the numerous spas
that are dotted throughout the
Hungarian capital. A dip in the
most majestic of them all, the
art nouveau Gellért baths, feels
like soaking in a museum.
Tt tops
50
An arched glass ceiling
the Roman-style swimming pool,
which is lined by patterned columns. Elaborate golden and azure
mosaics cover the floors and walls
of the thermal baths with intricate
friezes. Saunas, steam rooms,
massages as well as an outdoors
wave pool make for a complete
spa experience. And the adjoining Hotel Gellért can host those
willing to embark on a week-long
therapy session in its mineralrich waters. — chr
gellertfurdo.hu
Best turned out
Clothes brushes, Kent Brushes
Since 1777, Kent, one of the
oldest and finest manufacturers
in the UK, has brushed aside
competitors with its hardy
wooden-handled accessories.
With Royal Warrants from nine
different countries to show for
its efforts, its pieces come in
a variety of finishes – polished
mahogany or cherry wood – and
are complete with bristles from
India and China. An ideal travel
companion for keeping your outfit
spic and span. — kl
kentbrushes.com
Prime time
Uno hair wax, Shiseido
Japanese cosmetics firm Shiseido’s men’s line, Uno,
includes eight hair-styling products that are staples for
salarymen and students alike. The waxes cater to hair
of any length and style and the hair spray, gel and
skincare will also keep you preened and primed. — jt
shiseido.co.jp
Come clean
Face and body brushes, Suvé
Designer Yumi Terauchi created
Kumano-based skincare specialist
Suvé’s line of fine brushes, whose
dark-walnut handles complement
their soft goat-hair bristles. The
face brush doesn’t dry your skin
and sits prettily askew on its
uneven base; the six-bristled
body brush is also good
for a scrub. — je
suve.jp; buly1803.com
Barber
Oikawa
—
These scissors
have snipped
since the
1950s
Tried and tested
The Cure Apothecary, Toronto
Nitasha Goel (pictured) founded The Cure
Apothecary in Toronto’s Queen Street West a year
ago with a mission to provide a shopping experience that matches the quality of the organic skincare
products she stocks. The whitewashed wooden
shelves are lined with independent brands including
those of fellow Torontonians Mabrook & Co, New
York and LA’s Rituel De Fille and L’Aromatica from
San Francisco.
Goel also installed a sink to lure customers into
trying her products for themselves. “The whole
concept is to encourage my customers to feel and
experience as many products as they want before
deciding what suits them best,” she says. — mls
thecureapothecary.com
214 — issue 86
Photographer: Kohei Take
Secret ingredient
Perfume, 4711
This Köln-based shop on Glockengasse, whose
street number gave this eau de cologne its name, is
a much-visited address for its timeless design and
alluring scents. The recipe – of bergamot, lemon,
orange, lavender and rosemary – is a secret. — mss
4711.com; labourandwait.co.uk
Home and dry
Towel, Fouta
For her take on fine-spun Arabian bathing towels,
Sarra Ganouchi opted for simple patterns and muted
colours. Like her, the foutas are of Swiss and Tunisian
descent. Designed in Zürich, the towels are woven
from cotton in mills in the north African nation. — je
fouta.ch
Look sharp
Barber Oikawa, Tokyo
For a clean wet shave in Tokyo,
Barber Oikawa at The Imperial
Hotel is the best in class. In
business since the end of the
Second World War (when the
hotel was still housed in a building designed by Frank Lloyd
Wright), the shop is an institution
that boasts an old world ambience you would struggle to find
anywhere else.
Second generation barber
Keikichi Oikawa (pictured), now
81, continues to sharpen the
skills he has honed over the past
six decades. He follows in the
footsteps of his father Senkichi,
whose clientele numbered everyone from Japanese politicians
and businessmen to US military
officers during the postwar
occupation. — jt
imperial-arcade.co.jp
issue 86 — 215