the other day at the arctic circle - 4

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ISSU E 3
F R Ü H JA H R 2 0 1 6
AU T U MN 2016
THE
OT H E R
DAY AT T H E
ARCTIC CIRCLE
ROAD-TRIP
THROUGH
NORWAY
GERMANY'S BIGGEST OUTDOOR AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE
3
EDITORIAL
WELCOME
Henrik Hoffman (38) is Globetrotter’s CEO.
He was born in Sweden and still has several
outdoor, sailing and ski tours left on his
magical bucket list.
TO THE NEW
MAGAZINE
The magical bucket list
Everybody has one in their head and close to their
heart – the personal bucket list of dream destinations.
May some destination always remain unattained.
You plan some journeys for years in
advance, others are sorted out at the
breakfast table. Some require time, money
and patience to plan, others just need the
bike or the backpack out of the basement.
It is the spark of inspiration which triggers
the little and the big things on our bucket
lists.
The little escape: Sunrise paddling in
Hamburg (page 30).
FELDBERG
It begins close at hand. Trendy terms
like “urban outdoor” or “micro adventure”
are nothing else than little adventures
right on your doorstep. Take Hamburg as
an example: Getting up at dawn and then
paddling at sunrise through the warehouse
district and the harbour area (page 30).
What is waiting on your doorstep?
is where you stand
Feldberg is more than just a boot, it is the tale of the two peaks
that share the name.
One of them sits in the heart of the Black Forest – the other one is
located right at one of Germany’s most vibrant cities, Frankfurt.
One side of the Feldberg stands for the classic outdoor recreation,
looking for the less trodden path, the other side seeks adventure in
the bustling urban jungle.
Find them at your local retailer or at keenfootwear.com.
Those sparks can be found anywhere. When we listen to our friends'
stories, when we watch video clips on
Facebook, when we read the Globetrotter
Magazine. This issue could extend your
personal bucket list too.
The big dream: Arrival in the
Serengeti (page 76).
Or the famous crazy idea that becomes
reality: Four guys from Bavaria dreamt of
midsummer. Imagine what you could do
there, twenty-four-seven: hiking, biking,
paddling, even skiing. So they packed their
car and went off to Norway (page 136).
What is your crazy idea?
Or the “once-in-a lifetime trip”. This
is a league for unique experiences, the
childhood dreams fulfilled. You often save
up for a long time and then cannot wait to
finally set off on tour – only to then not
believe it is actually happening. For nature
enthusiasts, it could be a trip to the
famous Serengeti National Park where you
spend day and night on photo safari with
like-minded people. What is your dream
trip?
Equipment advice for local and global
tours can of course also be found in this
issue, as well as a special report on the
layered clothing system because it makes our
travels and tours so much easier (page 92).
Globetrotter likes to help you to “tick off”
places and add new things to your magic
bucket list. May it never be completely finished!
We continue to look forward
to your feedback and ideas:
Please send your response to
[email protected].
>>
EIN NEUER STANDARD
FÜR LAWINENSICHERHEIT
Der neue Voltair Lawinenairbag ist mehrfach
auslösbar. Wiederholtes Üben des Ernstfalls
trainiert den Auslösereflex.
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<< NEW HORIZONS >>
A N I M A L
F R I E N D
The wildlife filmmaker and storyteller
Andreas Kieling takes stock after 25 years of
“active service”. One thing first: It is all
Hansi’s fault.
Text
Manuel Arnu
Photo
Archive Kieling
No, he is not
Hansi but a
really laid-back
gorilla who lets
Hansi get really
close.
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<< NEW HORIZONS >>
H
Hey Andreas, you have just returned from a
film shooting in Alaska. Did you bring any
great pictures back?
Well, it was not that easy. They flew me out to the Katmai National Park by waterplane. The pilot said goodbye
with the comment: “It is supposed to rain the whole next
week. Have fun!” And then he disappeared. I put up my
tent in the rain and took it down in the rain. It rained
the whole week. Everything was wet: my clothes, my
sleeping bag, the camera.
So it is not all sunshine in Andreas Kieling’s
life?
No, that shooting really dragged me down. The pictures
took on a hazy appearance because moisture had condensed inside the lenses of my camera. My equipment
only dried out once I was back home in the Eifel.
Are there any other down sides in the life of a
wildlife and nature filmmaker?
Not many, apart from social isolation and loneliness. I
have been married for 30 years but have seen my wife
less than half the time. Sometimes, young assistants
joined me on the shootings and panicked because of the
isolation. Now they prefer to shoot “Tator” or “Bauer
sucht Frau”. It takes great mental strength to cope with
the wilderness.
At “loggerheads”
with an Anaconda
living in captivity:
6.5 metres long,
140 kg heavy and
18 years old.
You have been travelling around the world for 25
years to make films. What are you celebrating?
As a child of the DDR, I would never have dreamed of
such an accessible world that would allow me to live my
childhood dream.
What did young Andreas dream of?
He wanted to be a friend of animals. I had a tame squirrel and a mole which ate out of my hand. Even as a child,
I felt the urge to preserve natural experience. My >>
A travelling
wildlife film­
maker for 25
years: the
photos themselves reveal
that Andreas has
a lot to tell.
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<< NEW HORIZONS >>
<< NEW HORIZONS >>
"A viper bit me in my face in
Indonesia, an anaconda strangled
me in Brazil."
Not wanting to
play: desert
elephant in
Namibia. Time to
dance: coastal
brown bears in
Alaska. To blame
for everything:
guinea pig Hansi
as a model.
what I should do in five days, in five weeks or in five
months. I was really impressed by the feeling of freedom.
Your start as a wildlife filmmaker was a bit
slow…
I contacted many wildlife filmmakers like Heinz Sielmann. I even offered to bear all the costs. I just wanted
to be part of it. Most of them did not even reply.
first camera was a Puva Start. I put Hansi my guinea pig
on the table and took photos at eye level. I still have a
picture.
It was going to take a few years until you
started your career as a wildlife filmmaker.
When I was 16, I escaped the DDR under dramatic circumstances. In West Germany, I signed on as a sailor,
did an apprenticeship to become a district gamekeeper
and afterwards I worked in territory in the Eifel. At the
end of the 80s, I worked as a forest advisor in China and
India and supervised reafforestation projects. When I
returned, I felt life was just too limited back here.
Which place was better for you to develop?
For me, Alaska was the symbol for unlimited freedom.
There were no borders. I wanted to paddle along the
Yukon River and nobody stopped me. Nobody told me
And TV stations initially also had little interest?
An editor at NDR asked me what I had filmed before. I
could not show anything except for a few stags, wild
boars and deer I had filmed in the Eifel. He expected me
to drown or to get eaten by a bear if he commissioned
me to do work.
It did not stop you, did it?
No. I had a vision and I was young. I thought that even
if it all went wrong, I was going to have a great year in
the wilderness and gain a lot of life experience.
So you put it all on one card?
I owned an old English sports car which I had restored
from a pile of junk. I sold it for almost 50,000 Deutschmarks and ploughed all my savings in the expedition,
including a second-hand 16mm film camera, film rolls
and expedition equipment. By the way, I bought my car
back a few years ago.
>>
Entdecke die Hundeschlittentour in Grönland
jack-wolfskin.com
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<< NEW HORIZONS >>
Easy to draw the
conclusion: Wee
Kieling has been
fascinated by
animals from an
early age.
Not only bears:
during recent
years, Andreas has
also drawn
attention to less
popular animals.
Who knows this
one?
On 16 May 1991, you set off at the sources of
the Yukon.
My canoe was packed with film rolls, almost 4,500 metres of film. Seven months later, in November, I arrived
at the Berink Lake with six hours of raw material. The
Yukon was frozen, mighty storms were coming from the
sea. It was the expedition of my life!
Was the film a success?
Not at all initially. RTL offered me ten minutes on air for
7,000 Deutschmarks. I almost accepted. Luckily an editor
at WDR had a closer look at my material. My film was
shown in the series “Länder, Menschen, Abenteuer”
(Countries, People, Adventures). Two episodes, each 45
minutes long. So I almost recouped the costs and had a
foot in the door.
And afterwards, you returned regularly to
Alaska.
I guess I had a good instinct about films about the far
north of the Arctic. The Serengeti was the destination to
go to in those days, so many of the film teams were in
East Africa. There was no need for me to apply there and
to prove myself. Only one, maybe two camera teams
made their way to the Arctic each year.
Your films focus especially on polar bears,
coastal brown bears and grizzlies. Have you
been a bear expert from the very beginning?
Not at all. When I came to Alaska for the first time, I had
only heard negative stories about grizzlies: Bears were
terrorising villages, were extremely dangerous, and if a
hunter did not manage to shoot a bear properly at the
first attempt, then it would kill him and bend the gun
barrel afterwards. All stories were of a violent and scary
nature.
Is that not true? A grizzly is a predator!
In Alaska I learned that black bears, brown bears and
polar bears are extremely intelligent animals which act
according to a certain pattern. When there is a food
shortage, you should try to avoid them. When they have
enough food, you can approach them quite closely with
the camera.
“The bear man” is not a suicidal lunatic?
That is all nonsense. It was a long process for me to be
able to survive when close to predators and to make
movies about everything. Humans are classified as predators by bears and wolves and even by lions and leopards. We smell like a predator and we walk aggressively.
Foto ©Christoph Schöch
"When you have been in
the wilderness for a long
time, you notice that old
instincts reappear."
They notice this although they might never have seen a human before. A bear in the wide tundra of the north will not
initially think of attacking or even eating you. He regards you
as he would a hyena, wolverine, wolf or lynx.
So, better pretend to be a rowdy as if back in the
school yard?
You need a certain amount of self-confidence. Sometimes it
is enough to hit the ground hard enough with your foot to
show the bear: “Hey, I am tough too, don’t come close to me.”
Other times it is better to walk backwards and to let the bear
pass. If you come between the bear and its prey, you will end
up with a confrontation just as is the case between a wolf and
a bear. You need a lot of experience.
Has your view of the world changed in the wilderness?
In the adventure novels I read when I was a child and a teen,
nature was always dangerous for humans. Either you were
about to starve or to freeze, or you were threatened by wild
animals. I went to Alaska with such a picture in my head. And
suddenly, I realised that when you have already done a tour
through Lapland or paddled through the fjords in Norway, life
is not so dangerous in Alaska at all. And when you have been
in the wilderness for a long time, you notice that old instincts
reappear. You hear better, smell and see better, and you >>
KLEIN
PRAKTISCH
BESSER
Micro Vario Carbon
WWW.LEKI.COM
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<< NEW HORIZONS >>
can define the direction of the wind with your breath so
you can creep up better.
Originally, wild nature was the habitat of
humans too…
Exactly! How would we have survived as humans if it
was all so terrible? Humans used to be a part of great
nature, but we also had to accept strict limits. In terms
of hunting skills, bears and wolves always had advantages over us. That is why we admire them.
Kieling’s formula
for success: He is
often closer than
anybody else.
So the bear will never be your friend?
No! When you believe you can have an equal relationship
with wild animals, you cross the border between rational perception and emotions. And that is a very dangerous
moment. I can stand five metres next to a bull elk while
it is mating with a cow elk. It does not mean that the bull
elk likes me in particular. It just does not notice me because it is mating season and it is only interested in itself.
So I always ask myself the crucial question: “What do I
represent to the animal? Am I neutral, a disturbing factor, another predator?” In the meanwhile I can see things
from an animal’s perspective quite well.
Are wild animals predictable for you?
Definitely more predictable than a Friday night on a motor bike at the Frankfurter highway intersection when
there is a lot of traffic and everybody wants to head off
into the long weekend. That is the most dangerous moment you can experience. So many people die in civilisation because of car accidents and environmental toxins. That is a real danger but we can handle it.
Wilderness, however, scares us because we forgot how
to live with it.
Despite all caution – your film shootings were
not always harmless, were they?
A viper bit me in my face in Indonesia, an anaconda
strangled me in Brazil. And having been shot at by a
farmer, a desert elephant ran me over in Namibia. It was
not only venting its pain on me, but also its anger and
horror of humans. However, when I think about all the
accidents, I realise all were down to my mistakes. I had
not noticed that the animals were in a totally different
frame of mind than I had expected. But I have never been
attacked by an animal because it thought I was prey.
Your biggest mistake?
When a boar weighing 150 kilograms attacked me in the
Eifel. I almost bled to death.
So the worst accident was no bear attack?
No, there was only once a grizzly which hit my camera
backpack with its paw. It was relatively harmless. The
attack by the boar was at mating time, I guess it wanted
to mate with as many wild sows as possible…
… and so the camera man was kneeling down
on the ground, small and helpless.
The boar had fought with another boar beforehand and
had won the battle. I had filmed it. It had several scares
on its body and attacked me because I had filmed its
favourite wild sow.
A real boar!
We all know about the effect of testosterone. The boar
was in a fighting mood and everything that smelled like
male hormones had to be dealt with. That applied to the
little young boar just as it did to me.
That is quite a high personal price!
As a wildlife filmmaker, you often go the extra step because you want to capture unique pictures. So I am willing to take risks or to suffer. The game with danger,
which I actually do not perceive as such, creates the
appeal of my films. Also, I have gained a treasure trove
of experiences which is worth a fortune. That is what
makes me so successful to date.
>>
www.tatonka.com
TATONKA GmbH · Robert-Bosch-Str. 3 · D-86453 Dasing
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<< NEW HORIZONS >>
What is the reward?
Before the accident, I was able to film a wild sow building her nest and giving birth to her offspring. There are
many wild boars in Germany, they live on the edges of
the big cities. But nobody before me was able to film a
fight between two boars – each of them weighing 150
kilograms – and in slow motion. The film material travelled the world.
A family affair:
Kieling’s sons Erik
and Thore take
part in many
productions.
Are you saying that exceptional wildlife scenes
are not a question of luck or coincidence?
First of all, it is all about patience and passion. It is about
the passion for hunting with a camera. But you can only
be a successful hunter, if you do the job perfectly. So you
need to know the right timing such as is it mating time?
Or is it about dominance, hierarchy or interaction between
hunter and prey? All that can lead to a fight and therefore
you need experience. Animals do not fight for fun.
You have developed your own style with your
closeness to animals, also in front of the
camera.
This was not the intention at first. I made films for years
where you could not even see my nose. Then I did “Making of Scenes” which the editors found quite exciting.
The video clips with my dog, my sons and myself in front
of the camera were more entertaining. The audience got
the feeling of participating in the journey.
Wildlife films have changed quite a bit in the
last 25 years…
My first 16 mm films were really physically “edited”.
Individual film segments hung down from rails above
the light table, the editor wore white gloves. It must
sound like the times of Charlie Chaplin to young people
but actually no more than 15 years have passed since
then.
And nowadays?
Every smartphone takes high-resolution HD images and
the material does not even look bad.
How important is the technical equipment in
wildlife filmmaking?
It plays a very important role. With the change to
high-resolution full frame HD and 4K formats, the lenses have become even more precise and more true-colour.
The quality of TV images has got even better.
FOR YOUR EARS, EYES AND ALL SENSES
Andreas Kieling has not only made more than 50 wildlife films. His books about his filmmaking
have been on German bestseller lists for years.*
Andreas Kieling and his dog
Cleo travel through their home
country: they experience
Germany’s animals and natural
wonders from Berchtesgadener
Land to the North Sea. A
surprising and exciting
collection of German nature.
24.65.10 € 14.99
So everything is better than in the old days?
Not only. The amount of data has become much larger.
I hoped my equipment was going to be lighter in the
future but everything is getting heavier and more complicated. Cameras need much more power and therefore
larger batteries.
No need to travel far away
when you can have the best
things on your doorstep.
Several hikes through Germany
resulted in fascinating photos
that – together with maps and
illustrations – provide
surprising insights into
Germany’s fauna.
22.19.23 € 29.99
No other landscape has
challenged and shaped the
bear man like wild Alaska. The
wildlife filmmaker risked doing
several expeditions in the
wilderness and in this picture
book he presents his best
photos spanning more than 25
years in the far north.
26.71.22 € 39.99
Andreas Kieling has travelled
the whole world. His most
surprising expedition,
however, was his hike through
Germany along the former
inner-German border – eight
states in seven weeks.
An audio book narrated by the
charismatic voice of Andreas
Kieling. Discover Germany’s
lively nature and listen to audio
recordings of forests, meadows
and fields. Follow the lynx’ tracks
and listen to the rutting call of
the red deer.
21.36.72 22.82.46 LESS IS BEST
WENIGER GEWICHT. MEHR KOMFORT.
There is hardly a wildlife film not featuring
modern camera technology nowadays.
For the ZDF & BBC co-production “Eisige Welten” (“Icy
Worlds”), film footage of polar bears, wolves and other
polar animals was captured on huge stabilised and highly specialised Cineflex aerial cameras from helicopters,
planes and ships. Those pictures were incredible.
How extensive is your technical input?
I prefer the opposite approach. I was the first camera
man who dived with a wild grizzly in a glacier lake. I put
on a dry suit and a weight belt and tried again and again
until I had images of the bear I wanted. Only the bear
and me. But that took a whole three full months.
>>
"I made films for years in which you could not
even see my nose."
Ultraleichtes Zwei-Personen-Zelt - Hogan UL 2P
€ 14.99
€ 14.99
* all books listed are in German.
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<< NEW HORIZONS >>
25 YEARS
ANDREAS KIELING
INJURIES:
4 x attacked by animals
25%
50%
25%
1 bullet lodged
in the body
(escape from the DDR)
Time with dog Cleo
Time with his children
150
kilos
Time with his wife
ALASKA
with grizzlies
10 years
travelling
30 kilos of film
equipment
59 films
since 1990
Paddled kilometres on the
YUKON
Friends on Facebook
98,155 (as at August 2016)
3200
10 books in
product range
1400 KM
HIKED
for film projects
in Germany
1959 BORN
in Jena, Thüringen.
"When you want to film wild
chimpanzees hunting, you
need to run fast."
MOUNTAIN BOOTS
HANDCRAFTED WITH PASSION
Your word counts but it also divides opinion.
Extreme animal protectionists despise me because I eat
meat once in a while. Hunters say: “You used to be one
of us and now you betray us.” I say what I think and
support nature – as far as I can as an individual human
being. Nobody can shut me up.
BORN IN BAVARIA – WORN AROUND THE WORLD
In 2008, you were honoured with the Wildscreen Panda Award. A highlight in your
career?
That is the highest award you can receive as a wildlife
filmmaker. I was the first German to receive the award.
It is comparable to the Oscar in the film industry.
And in 2015, you received The Order of Merit
of the Federal Republic of Germany.
At the award ceremony I sat next to Joachim Gauck and
asked him why they had chosen me. I mean, there are
more important and more exciting people out there. He
told me that with my films and books I give people an
understanding of animals and nature. He had nomi­nated
me…
What is your up-coming film project?
For “Kielings wilde Welt” (Kieling’s Wild World) I am
travelling to Zimbabwe, Mosambik and South Africa and
will talk about re-linking elephants’ migration corridors.
The film will be shown on ZDF at the TerraX time slot.
What will your next 25 years be like?
Carry on, carry on! I want to accomplish my projects
with more experience and calmness. Not to reach my
limits each time. I will not spend four months alone in a
tent in northern Alaska anymore. Those days are gone.
They gave me unique experiences when I was young, I
could pursue my biggest dreams and desires. Nowadays,
it would be my death.
<<
Hardly any wildlife film is made without
drones and action cams these days.
That is right, but it does not always help. Last year, I shot
some chimpanzees at Lake Tanganyika. It may sound
easy, but when you want to film wild chimpanzees hunting in the rain forest, you need to run fast. The best
technique does not help a bit. All you need is experience,
instinct and to be fit.
Looking at you it is clear that you keep fit.
It is the basic requirement for my job. I have never been
a wildlife filmmaker who waits for an animal in a hideout. I have a punchball in my old cow shed along with
six pairs of boxing gloves. I also exercise regularly on my
fitness machines and go running with my dog Cleo.
You also regularly publish podcasts and video
clips on YouTube and Facebook.
On one of my last video clips I talked critically about
wind energy. Dead bats and birds are a high price to pay
for environment-friendly energy. The clip was played
more than 1,000,000 times within four weeks!
ECHTE HANDARBEIT AUS EUROPA
GEZWICKTE MACHART // WIEDERBESOHLBAR
EXTREM LANGLEBIG
He is on the
move again.
After this
interview, he
went to South
Africa for ZDF.
Hanwag Tatra GTX®
Leicht, trotzdem stabil und besonders komfortabel – das ist der Hanwag Tatra GTX®
aus der wohl erfolgreichsten Hanwag Produktfamilie aller Zeiten.
In der Standardausführung oder mit Wide, Narrow oder Bunion Spezial-Leisten erhältlich.
WWW.HANWAG.DE
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< < P R OJ E CT S > >
This is how micro-adventuring works:
after your business appointment in
Hamburg, postpone your return flight
by 24 hours and swap your laptop
for a kayak.
Text & Photos
Michael Neumann
HAMBURG,
OUR PADDLE
G
E
M
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< < P R OJ E CT S > >
Hamburg’s Globetrotter store is the
starting point to one of Germany’s
most beautiful paddle tours.
What would you like? The canoe’s
paternoster at Wiesendamm.
Good morning Spiegel,
hello ZDF!
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< < P R OJ E CT S > >
While the ICE thunders above
us, we get an exclusive view of
the Inner Alster.
The Alster is for hobby
captains whereas the
Elbe is only for
professionals.
You can hardly get lost with the
water sports map of the Alster,
published by Globetrotter.
TAKE
THE LONG
WAY
Auf langen Wegen die Welt entdecken. Den Weg zum Ziel machen. Und
echte Erfahrungen sammeln. Das wollen wir. Bei FRILUFTS orientieren wir uns dabei
an den „Principles of Slow Travel“ (© by Daniel Roy). Wir reisen langsam und mit
leichtem Gepäck. Wir sehen genau hin. Atmen durch. Lassen uns treiben. Uns geht es
um die großen und die kleinen Abenteuer in der Welt. Und weil es dazu nicht viel mehr
braucht als Neugier und Abenteuerlust, machen wir hochwertige, gut aussehende und
funktionale Produkte zu einem fairen Preis. Mach dich mit uns auf den Weg. Den echten Weg. Den langen Weg. TAKE THE LONG WAY – mit FRILUFTS.
PRINcIPLE Nº 1: SLOW DOWN. Erfahrungen sammelt man im Moment, nicht
im Fotoalbum. Mach dich auf in Welt. Aber lass dir Zeit dabei. Sieh dich um. Tauche
ein. Sei offen für jedes Abenteuer. Und für die Natur. Bleib stehen. Lass dich fallen. Auf
Wiesen. Oder am Meer. Ströme durch Märkte. Feier jedes Detail. Kein Weg ist zu lang,
kein Moment zu kurz. Mach dich auf den Weg. Und wenn du angekommen bist – geh
weiter. Finde deinen Weg auf www.frilufts.com
E
N E U
D I E
kE
OrMar
O
D
t
U
O
BEI
USIV
EXkL
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< < P R OJ E CT S > >
Check-in at the
take-out: the
25hours at the
Alten Hafenamt*.
It is the harbour’s birthday celebration
today, the biggest hustle and bustle
harbour event in the world. But at 5 am,
we are the only ones on the water.
When all these launches
pull the anchor, it is time
to do a runner.
Unbelievably
controversial,
unbelievably
expensive, but
also unbelievably
pretty: the Elbe
Philharmonic.
*The hotel had to close in June due to a fire, more information on www.25hours-hotels.com.
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huskytrack
< < P R OJ E CT S > >
Das umfangreichste
Werk zum Thema
Wheeling the
packed kayaks
from the hotel to
the water.
Hundeschlitten
Reisen
s the editorial office responsible for this magazine, we
often journey from our home town of Augsburg
to pay a visit to Globetrotter’s headquarters in
Hamburg. We go there to think up new ideas,
discuss various topics and enlarge stories in the
making. And in the end, we go back home.
Not this time at the beginning of May. Ascension Day allowed us some free time and we
postponed our trip back by 24 hours and asked
the store at Wiesendamm if we could rent two
kayaks. We could. We quickly pack our belongings into the waterproof storage spaces in the
boats and wheel our laden boat carriers 50
metres to the bank of the Osterbek Canal. In
the afternoon, we paddle towards the city centre. In no time we reach the Outer Alster, a
look-and-find river, which resembles a lake.
Sailing boats are criss crossing back and forth,
rowing boats speed past and tourist boats hoot
us out of their way. From the Outer Alster, we
make our way into the Inner Alster with the
water fountain and the town hall in the back
ground – probably one of the most photographed city scenes of Germany. And we are
right in the centre of things.
To reach the Elbe River from the Alster, we
need to pass through two locks. They are designed to regulate the water level on the Alster
and protect the inner city from flooding.
When we leave the locks behind us, we enter
a new world. The Elbe rules here with its tidal
range of an average of 3.66 metres. It is abso-
lutely vital to adhere to the traffic rules. It is
possible that you have a 300 metre long container ship behind you instead of a little tourist boat. In short: If you go paddling on the
Elbe, in the harbour area and through the
warehouse district, you should know what you
are doing.
ALL ABOARD!
To keep out of the thick of things, it is recommendable to stick to the well-known countercyclical strategy. So when we slosh out of the
lock and into the warehouse district at 7pm,
most of the traffic has already disappeared, a
day’s work is done. We paddle through the
brick gorges almost on our own. Just the hustle and bustle at the waterfront is a bit irritat-
ing. What kind of huts are they putting up
there? A passerby can tell us more. It's the
traditional harbour anniversary event tomorrow, no less than the biggest harbour festival
in the world. Whoa!
That explains how difficult it was to find a hotel room. We did not choose it according to its
stars rating or the length of the breakfast buffet table, all that counted was the distance to
the water. It turned out to be the new 25hours
at the Alten Hafenamt which suited us just
fine. We were able to store the kayaks in the
backyard before we treated ourselves to the
eastern Mediterranean cuisine of the adjoining
Neni restaurant. Luckily, nobody noticed that
our neoprene shoes left wet marks everywhere. Before we closed heavy brocade curtains and disappeared under our duvets, we
checked the sunrise app. It displayed an unearthly time of 5:39 am. And as we are planning on being on the water at that time, we
agreed to meet at the boats at 5 am.
There is nobody else on the water. We quickly
paddle along the Elbe philharmonic hall, navigate our way past the jetties and on to the
futuristic Hamburg Cruise Center. And then
quickly back towards the Alster before the
birthday party starts with the opening parade.
The people in good spirits who floated past us
in vessels of all shapes and sizes on Father’s
Day were on a par with the harbour’s birthday
celebrations. Hamburg is, and will always be,
a paddler's gem.
<<
auf über 200 Seiten
Seiten
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Jetzt gratis anfordern!
Tel.:
employees. The map is waterproof and
can therefore always stay on board. It also
shows the warehouse district and the
harbour city. However, only experienced
sea dogs should plunge their paddles
into these waters, as it it quite narrow
and busy with the shipping traffic.
•
h u s k y t ra ck .de
Reise Nr. 46-33978-01
Reise Nr. 358-12808-01
8 Tage von Hütte zu Hütte
If you are about to go paddling on the
Alster, you will find important
information including kayak rental
agencies on the water sports map of the
Alster (order number 18.61.86, € 6.95).
Globetrotter unfortunately only rents
boats out to prospective buyers and
03303-29 73 123
Finnland | Schweden | Lappland | Norwegen | Alaska
Wildnistour in Lappland
PADDLING THROUGH HAMBURG
über 40 Reisvorschläge
R eisvorschläge
in 4 Ländern
20 Kennelportraits
Reiseberichte
viele Hintergrundinfos
Tipps zur Ausrüstung
Infos zu Regionen u.v.m.
Huskyabenteuer Vindelfjällen
ab 2.139 €
5 Tage Huskywanderung
ab 1.679 €
Leistungen inklusive
Leistungen inklusive
• Linienflug von Frankfurt nach Kittilä und zurück
• Linienflug von Frankfurt nach Vilhelmina und zurück
• Transfers ab/an Flughafen Kittilä zur Lodge
• Transfers an/ab Flughafen Vilhelmina zur Huskyfarm
• 4 Übernachtungen in der Lodge im DZ bzw. 1/2 DZ
• 2 Übernachtungen auf der Huskyfarm
• 3 Übernachtungen in Wildnishütten in Mehrbettzimmern
• 2 Übernachtungen in urigen Wildnishütten in Mehrbettzimmern
• Vollverpflegung (Hauptmahlzeit am Abend)
• Vollverpflegung während des gesamten Aufenthalts
• Ausrüstung für extreme Kälte (in Größen S - XXL, Schuhe 37 - 46)
• Komplette Ausrüstung gegen extreme Kälte
• 1 Schlittengespann mit 4 - 6 Hunden je Teilnehmer
• eigenes Hundeschlittengespann mit 4-5 Hunden je Teilnehmer
• deutsch- und/oder englischsprachiger Guide
• erfahrener englischsprachiger Guide
• 24h Servicetelefon während Ihrer Reise
• 1 Reiseführer Schweden & 1 Buch zum Hundeschlittenfahren pro Buchung
• 1 Reiseführer Finnland & 1 Buch Hundeschlittenfahren pro Buchung
• 15 EUR Einkaufsgutschein für Globetrotter Ausrüstung pro Person
• 15 EUR Einkaufsgutschein pro Person für Globetrotter Ausrüstung
• 24h Servicetelefon während Ihrer Reise
40
41
< < W H AT ' S N E X T ? > >
WHAT’S
THIS
NEXT
AUTUMN?
#1
UPCOMING
Gear loops
Four sturdy polyurethane loops
for carabiner & co, and four
slots for ice clippers.
Warp strength technology
Distributes the weight equally
along the belt and the leg
loops for more comfort on
longer tours. The edges were
made softer.
Transport loop
There is a loop on the back to
which you can, for example,
attach a second rope to pull up
a backpack later.
Wear safety marker
Orange-coloured “safety
markers” have been sewn into
the tie-in points, reinforced
loops on the belt and leg loops.
As soon as the warning colour
becomes visible, you should
stop using the harness.
8
TRENDS
AT
GLOBETROTTER
Fieschergletscher, Switzerland. Photo: David Schultheiß
Back leg loops
A premium stainless steel hook
enables you to take off the leg
loops to go to the bathroom.
Arc’teryx AR-395a –
Climbing harness with legendary family tree
Most people do not know that the Vapor Harness
was the first product made by Rock Solid, which
later became known as Arc’teryx. Back then, mastermind Mike Blenkam laminated the first thermally-shaped harness with the help of pizza ovens
and bins from Ikea. Arc’teryx still boasts a small
but very select range of harnesses amongst its
products. The AR-395a features an all-round design: it is versatile and made for sport, an alpine
environment, mixed climing and ice climbing. The
adjustable leg loops allow easy adjustment of the
harness to clothes, no matter if that means thin
climbing pants on a sunny rock or thick warm base
layers underneath a pair of pants on a grim north
face. It also scores with its small package size,
great wear comfort and light total weight. The
women’s version has a loop which is 3.5 centimetres longer to account for the larger height of a
woman's pelvis and to reduce the pull on the leg
loops.
<<
26.65.24 Men size: S, M, L. Weight: 395 g.
26.34.94 Women size: S, M, L. Weight: 385 g.
€ 149.95
€ 149.95
The women’s model in the colour
Sumire is named AR-385a.
42
< < W H AT ' S N E X T ? > >
43
< < W H AT ' S N E X T ? > >
#2
UPCOMING
Bikepacking
– cycling nowadays
The most interesting paths in life seldom run straight and even.
The same is true for bicycle tours. Until now there was a catch
however. Either you chose the classic bicycle set-up for tours
with bags on the side of your bike – which meant that you had
to choose tarred roads due to the width and limited manoeuvrability. Or you only took one backpack, such as when on an
alpine crossing on the MTB – which can be painful for the
shoulders and neck after a few days.
So therefore, a few bicycle freaks in the USA have invented a
new way of bikepacking. Tent, sleeping bag and food are stored
in special bags held as close as possible to the bicycle so that it
retains its cross-country ability. Perfect for an overnight tour
with light luggage on the weekend or an expedition on a fatbike.
The bicycle travel equipment professionals Ortlieb, from Franconia, have now created their own version of bikepacking bags.
All their 35 years (anniversary this year) of experience have
been fed into their fully waterproof bikepacking series which
is now on the market.
<<
I
Welcome to Globetrotter
t is already first choice for thousands of
Asian mountaineers – and finally the brand
with the yak as a logo has made its way to
Globetrotter. Black Yak was founded in 1973
by the himalayan alpinist Tae Sun Kang in his
home country of South Korea, one of the biggest outdoor markets in the world. They have
had a licence to produce with Gore-Tex fabric
since 1994, and in 1998 they overran China
with 18 brand stores. And in 2012, they expanded to the west. Following an appearance
at the ISPO – where they won the award
“Asian product of the year” – two years later
they opened a European headquarters in
Munich and, in cooperation with Swiss
specialists, developed a collection of
products which is geared to the needs of
European mountaineers and outdoor
enthusiasts. Noble materials, an excel-
lent fit, cool design, individual solutions. At the
ISPO 2016, they promptly won eleven awards,
eight of which were gold. That speaks for itself.
Have a look at two Black Yak products.
<<
BLACK YAK
HYBRID JACKET
Exciting combination! Primaloft Gold teams up
with Polartec Alpha and exceptional design. Or
more precisely, the quilted winter jacket has
a warm but thinner and more flexible strip of
stretch fleece in the back. Overheating was yesterday, mobility is today. The cut is anatomic, the
wind-proof and water-repellent outer material is
enormously hardwearing. It is well thought-out
too: The collar is padded and warm, the hood is
made of thin stretch fleece so that it fits perfectly
underneath a helmet. The thin and flexible cuffs
are perfect when you put on your gloves.
Weight: 560 g/M. Material: Polartec Power Grid Fleece
(100 % polyester). Outer material: Cordura Light
Weight Ripstop (100 % polyamide). Padding:
Primaloft Gold (100 % polyester), PolartecAlpha
(100 % polyester).
28.10.12 Women € 499.95
28.10.07 Men
€ 499.95
#3
U P CO M I N G
ORTLIEB'S
HANDLEBAR-PACK
Waterproof handlebar-pack with
roll-up closure. A bicycle’s agility,
speed and cross-country mobility
are hardly compromised. One
roll-up seal on each side allows
quick access to the contents. Two
compression straps fix the weight
close to the wheel and include
fittings to hold an accessory pack.
Volume: 15 l. Weight: 420 g.
Material: 100 % nylon, PU-coated.
28.00.51
€ 99.95
ORTLIEB’S
SEAT-PACK
The waterproof seat-pack offers 8 to
16.5 litres of storage space. A purge
valve as featured in other Ortlieb
bags allows for air to escape for
perfect compression. The Seat-Pack
can be easily fitted to every seat
post. Strong Velcro® fasteners and
an inner and outer stabilisation
system ensure the equipment is
transported safe and sound.
Volume: 16.5 l. Weight: 430 g.
Material: 100 % nylon, PU-coated.
28.00.50
€ 129.95
44
< < W H AT ' S N E X T ? > >
D
A
S
KOMMT
#4
"We want to give the people
the time to catch a breath"
In spring 2015, Nepal was devastated
by one of its most severe earthquakes
in history. Tsedo Sherpa, COO at Sherpa Adventure Gear from Kathmandu,
explains the current situation.
until then. After the earthquake, we stopped
normal production and started producing
tents, blankets and warm underwear. After
the second earthquake, our employees became scared and left. Suddenly we had no
skilled employees any more. It was difficult.
Tsedo, how did the Sherpa Company
experience the earthquake?
It was challenging for us. We had produced
80 percent of our products in Kathmandu
How did you develop production
after that?
Our retailers were very understanding. But
the more we produce, the more we can do
< < W H AT ' S N E X T ? > >
Tsedo Sherpa,
daughter of founder
Tashi Sherpa. When
she was seven years
old, she moved
from Nepal to the
USA, where she
later studied. But
she is often in Nepal
to visit the production plant and her family.
for Nepal. So we outsourced some of our
production to Vietnam. First, because we
were lacking skilled employees, and second,
because the transport of goods and raw material is difficult and expensive in Nepal. We
now look what Nepal is good at and what
Vietnam is good at in order to produce efficiently. That helps everybody.
#5
UPCOMING
What is Sherpa still producing in
Nepal?
We manufacture our mid layers which are
fleece, printed shirts and knitwear. That is
our strongest growing sector. The variety of
products has decreased, but the volume has
increased. So we can therefore employ our
workers for a whole year.
Are you going to move the whole
production back to Nepal one day?
That is a long-term outlook. At the moment,
it is not possible because of the missing infrastructure. We want to give the people
time to take a breath and rebuild their country. So we now think from one season to the
next.
<<
In 1978
The
Evergreen
turns green
, Fjällräven developed a backpack for
Swedish school kids. Today, the Kånken
is one of the style icons of the world – and is now getting a very
sustainable brother. The Re-Kånken is made of 95 percent of recycled PET bottles. During the process of spinning, the paint pigment
is added to the threads in a process known as SpinDye. And SpinDye saves a lot of resources: 75 % water, 67 % chemicals, 39 %
energy. Except for the buckles, buttons and zippers, the Re-Kånken
is made of the one material. So, the Re-Kånken can also be easily
recycled at the end of its backpack life – if this happens at all.
Re-Kånken is as sturdy as its older brother.
<<
Volume: 16 l. Weight: 400 g. Material: Recycled polyester (100 % polyester).
27.85.46
€ 89.95
VIBRAM®
MEGAGRIP
MERRELL
Capra GTX
Powered by
Vibram® MEGAGRIP
Die neue,
hochleistungsfähige
Gummimischung.
· Bisher unerreichter Grip auf
nassen und trockenen Flächen
· Robust und langlebig
· Optimale Anpassung an
den Boden
SHERPA
SAMCHI PONCHO
A classic and authentic Poncho made of pure,
soft and warming lamb’s wool – hand-made
in Nepal.
Weight: 920 g. Material: 100 % wool (lamb’s wool).
Material 2: 100 % polyester.
28.11.71
€ 119.95
SHERPA
ANANTA JACKET
Fleece jacket with a chic Nepalese design.
Nice and warm and comfortable to wear.
SHERPA
UMA TECH TEE
Not an optical tech tee but the material
makes it one.
SHERPA
TARCHO TEE
How pretty is this one! Prayer flags decorate
this high-quality, sustainable cotton shirt.
Weight: 420 g/L. Material: Polartec Thermal Pro (100 % polyester).
Weight: 200 g/M. Material: DriRelease (84 % polyester, 11 %
wool (Merino), 5 % spandex). Use biocides carefully – read
labelling and product information before use.
Weight: 160 g/L. Material: 100 % cotton (from controlled
farming).
28.11.32
€ 119.95
28.11.67
€ 59.95
27.22.85
€ 29.95
vibram.com
46
< < W H AT ' S N E X T ? > >
47
< < W H AT ' S N E X T ? > >
New in stock:
Merino by Frilufts
#6
The wool of Merino sheep is much finer than that of other
breeds of sheep. So it feels nice and soft when you wear it.
But that is not all…
UPCOMING
The first Merino sheep probably originated in North Africa where great
temperature differences lead to the animals developing a soft and fine
wool. Man has appreciated the benefits of the fine wool from this
breed of sheep for centuries. But it has not been until recent years that
– thanks to its magical features – the wool has arrived in the outdoor
industry: It is an excellent natural temperature regulator, it's resistant
to dirt and water, and above all, it prevents odours. Frilufts has now
also added shirts and underwear made of the precious natural product
to their product range. Frilufts-Merino dispenses with the common
but much criticised practice of mulesing, which involves the removal
of skin around the animals breech (buttocks) to reduce flies. FRILUFTS
ENNI L/S SHIRT is the perfect first layer for every activity. All 23 Merino
products by Frilufts: www.globetrotter.de/merino+frilufts.
Weight: 170 g/M. Material: 100 % wool 150 g/m2 (Merino)
27.82.52
#8
UPCOMING
€ 59.95
In best hands
since 1936
A family business in the fourth generation but new at
Globetrotter: The glove brand of Hestra.
Gloveson? No, not quite correct. The managers of the Swedish
family business Hestra are called Magnusson. In the fourth generation. Originally, lumberjacks in the high plateau of Småländ used
to use the robust and warm gloves. Nowadays, it's skiers, hunters,
flâneurs and many others who do not want to
get cold hands – but want to have long-lasting
HESTRA ERGO GRIP
and noble gloves made of the best materials.
ACTIVE 5-FINGER
Weight: 120 g/9. Material: Gore-Tex
With their own display space, Hestra presents
windstopper, goat leather (impregnated).
itself this autumn and winter in seven GlobeInner material: 100 % polyester.
28.03.18
€ 99.95
trotter stores. Get your hands on them!
<<
#7
UPCOMING
Bargain alarm! One of the most
successful rain jackets of the product
range costs less than 100 euros.
If you need a good rain jacket for every
eventuality but do not necessarily want to
accomplish the first winter ascent of the
Milford Track in New Zealand, get a lot of
jacket per euro with the colourful Marmot
classic Precip. It features ripstop nylon
with a 2 ½ layer PU coating. Silk protein
processing makes the inner side particularly smooth and very skin-friendly.
Weight: 270 g/M. Material: 100 % nylon with NanoPro-coating (PU).
23.59.01 (women)
23.58.72 (men) € 99.95
from € 99.95
WOMEN’S VERSIONS
Precip or what?
MEN’S VERSIONS
Naturally great features: the wool from Merino sheep.
48
49
<< TRAVEL >>
Lakes, forests, volcanoes – Chile’s
“Zona Sur” is the perfect terrain for your
first trip to South America. The place to
wander, wonder and enjoy…
Text & Photos
Cindy Ruch
N
A
AT
BEST
The araucarias forest at the
Conquillio National Park.
Nora Doa/Fotolia.com
Z O
SUR
ITS
50
Für
unvergängliche
Erinnerungen
<< TRAVEL >>
Lucky: a competition run by
Deuter and Wikinger takes four
GM readers to Chile.
When winners travel: at the Laja waterfalls.
It does not get any
greener: “Tres Lagos”
at the Huerquehue
National Park.
Homöopathische Erkältungstropfen
Natürlich starke Abwehr
für Gipfelstürmer
ALMOST LIKE ALLGÄU – WITH VOLCANOES
HOMÖOPATHISCH · BEWÄHRT · GUT VERTRÄGLICH
metavirulent® Mischung. Die Anwendungsgebiete leiten
sich von den homöopathischen Arzneimittelbildern ab. Dazu
gehören: Grippale Infekte. Hinweis: Bei Fieber, das länger als
3 Tage anhält oder über 39 °C ansteigt, sollte ein Arzt aufgesucht werden. Warnhinweis: Enthält 37 Vol.-% Alkohol. meta Fackler Arzneimittel GmbH, D-31832 Springe,
Telefon: 05041 9440-10, Fax: 05041 9440-49, Internet:
www.metafackler.de.
Stand: 01/15.
Zu Risiken und Nebenwirkungen lesen Sie die Packungsbeilage und fragen Sie Ihren Arzt oder Apotheker.
Comfortable: A gaucho transports the camping
luggage on his horse.
www.metavirulent.de
H
eike, Christoph, Guido and Axel have never been to South America. They dreamed
about it though – always wanted to gaze
at volcanoes, swim in the Pacific Ocean
and hike through the Andes. Try some
mate tee and meet gauchos. Maybe South
America has always been a bit too far away
for them, the Spanish skills a bit too weak.
Chance had a hand in this though: Outdoor equipment supplier Deuter and German active travel specialist Wikinger
Reisen organised a competition which was published in the
Globetrotter Magazine: Two winners and their companions
would be invited to Chile – and so Heike, Christoph, Guido
and Axel suddenly found themselves as part of a travel group
in one of the most beautiful regions of the continent. At the
“Zona Sur” to be more precise, also known as Chilean Switzerland. The programme of events included a guided familiarisation tour featuring one and multiple day hikes. The mission:
Dream realisation. It was about to start.
The tour starts with the favourite area of Heidi – our travel
guide – on the island of Chiloé. When we first hike through
the Chiloé National Park, we pass white blooming bushes of
Murta, Chilean bamboo and cinnamon trees. “I like all the
green and the mountains,” says Heidi, a geriatric nurse with
a distinctive dialect from the Allgäu region in Southern Germany. She had been travelling to South America for 25 years
before deciding to turn her favourite continent into her new
home. “Life in Chile is much freer and a new start as a newcomer is much easier here than in other countries.”
The landscape in the evergreen “Zona Sur” is also reminiscent
of the Allgäu region with its mountains and lakes – if it were
not for the roaring Pacific Ocean and the majestic volcanoes.
We spot the first shiny white tip of a volcano on the same day
we set off on our journey up north. Heidi points out of the bus
window. “Can you see the Osorno? It is so rare to see it so
clearly!” she shouts. “Oh well, when winners are travelling.
Tomorrow we are going up there!”.
>>
MIT DER NEUEN CAMPFIRE SERIE
Skandinavisches Design, edle Materialien, langlebige
Konstruktionen: Unsere CampFire-Produkte ermöglichen
ganz neue Outdoor- und Kocherlebnisse. Die Serie reicht
von revolutionären Kochern über Besteck, Töpfe und
Geschirr bis hin zu Küchenutensilien.
Keep the flame burning
www.primus.eu
Laien_AZ_vir_Berg1_91,5x120_3mm_Beschnitt_4Seasons_0116.indd 1
06.01.16 10:49
52
<< TRAVEL >>
WIRKSAM
IMPRÄGNIEREN,
WASCHEN &
PFLEGEN:
The programme includes a
guided tour with one and
multiple day hikes.
MIT DEM TESTSIEGER
DURCH WIND & WETTER
Another national drink besides mate tea is Pisco Sour.
tips. That is great for our modest Spanish skills. “That is another reason why Chile is perfect for South America’s beginners,” says Heidi “No special vaccinations are necessary and
the crime rate is quite low in comparison to other countries.”
The volcano peaks turn out to be the landmarks of our journey. The Llaima Volcano, one of Chile’s most active, stands
on top of our must-see list. In our white bus, we travel through
black lava fields of Conguillío National Park. There were eruptions in 2008 and 2009. Araucarias tower high above the black
field. These evergreen conifer trees with their sturdy, shell-like
leaves seem to be a blend of palm tree and cactus. They are a
protected species, only the indigenous Mapuche – the “people
of the earth” – are allowed to use the seeds to make bread.
Between the araucarias, we have beautifulÖKOLOGISCH
views of the Sierra IMPRÄGNIEREN,
Nevada, Lago Conquillío and, of course, the volcanic peak of
WASCHEN & PFLEGEN
Llaima.
And another volcano! One and multiple day tours in the “Zona Sur”.
WEARING HATS AND PONCHOS AROUND THE
CAMP FIRE
Houses on stilts and Chiloé’s fishing boats at anchor underneath them.
MANY LOCALS LIKE TO SPEAK GERMAN
Little clouds move above the adjoining volcano of Calbuco. A reason
to get nervous? It erupted last year in April, and its cloud of ash fell
on fields and villages within a radius of 30 kilometres. “500 of the
2000 volcanoes in Chile are active,” explains Heidi. “Earthquakes
and tsunamis are also a big issue. But risk management is very good,
there are many practice alarms and signposted escape routes in case
of Tsunamis.” she adds. Today we hope Osorno is our volcanic friend
and have lunch in one of its 74 craters. It last erupted in 1869, a long
time ago.
Wide fields rush past outside our tinted bus windows as we make our
way to Lago Llanquihue. The lake is a little bit bigger than Lake Constance and it also somehow seems familiar. Some houses on the lakeside look like Black Forest huts, Cafés have signs outside advertising
with the German word “Kuchen” for cake and the beer is called Kunstmann. The “Zona Sur” has been very popular for immigrants from
Germany for years now, and as early as 1853, thousands of immigrants settled down in the area. On our journey, we also meet several locals who like to speak German – and can give us a lot of travel
“Anyone who hasn't been in a Chilean forest doesn't know this
planet,” writes Pablo Neruda in his autobiography. We cannot
stop being amazed at every view point, and we are also somewhat open-mouthed about the few Chilean hikers who run up
the mountain in leggings and sneakers holding a water bottle
in their hands. We are happy with the Deuter backpacks they
gave us for the trip. They contain water and tasty goodies, and
cling subtly to our backs. However, hiking is not so popular
in Chile yet.
The Andes are also on our wish list and the cosy village of
Casa Chueca in Talca is a gateway to them. The two-day hike
takes us into the Altos del Lircay Natural Reserve. A gaucho
follows us with two horses. We soon find our walking rhythm
putting one foot automatically and evenly in front of the other. And as often happens when a group of travellers gets together, we are quickly talking about trips to Lapland, Africa
www.fibertec.info
and Argentina. Our guide Frank is also a German immigrant.
He used to be a plastic moulder. Six years ago he came to
Chile and stayed as a mountain guide.
>>
!AZ.indd 17
Testsieger
Testsieger
in der Kategorie
„Spezialimprägniermittel für Textilien“
www.fibertec.info
in der Kategorie
„Spezialimprägniermittel
für Textilien“
GUT (2,3)
Im Test: 18
Imprägniermittel
Ausgabe
09/2015
www.test.de
15QL28
All going to plan. After a drive with many turns, we stand at the foot
of the Osorno Volcano at the Vicente Perez Rosales National Park.
We follow the bright path along dark lava gravel, and when we turn
around after a while, we see Chile’s natural beauty in front of us as
if somebody had made a green and blue silhouette: the giant Lake
Llanquihue, surrounded by meadows, forests and mountains, and in
the background the mighty Andes, blue shadows against the sky.
Above us sits Osorno’s enthroned peak. It looks down on its country
as proud as a king.
DIE PERFORMANCE
IMPRÄGNIERUNG
GERMAN CLEAN AND CARE
10.11.15 13:01
54
<< TRAVEL >>
DIE WELTBESTEN KLETTERFILME IN FULL-HD
At the camp fire, the
pocket bottle gets
passed around as quickly
as the cup of mate tea.
präsentiert von
A good sleeping bag is compulsory with cold nights in the Andes.
Above the timberline of 1,800 metres, the clouds cling together like
cuddling mountain ghosts. No sunny weather for the winners. The
“Treasure of Silver Lake” appears in front of us – the Laguna del Alto
reminds us of the German western Winnetou. Horses waiting on the
edge loaded with colourfully woven bags. Our gaucho follows us
down the narrow path, and when we pitch the tents behind the lagoon, the dense fog turns into drizzle. Wrapped up in rain jackets
we eat packet soup, empanadas – filled dumplings – and drink tea.
Thomas and his family from Santiago camp next to us. They invite
us over to their camp fire where the pocket bottle gets passed around
as quickly as the cup of mate tea. The men stand around wearing
their hats and ponchos, and our gaucho is smiling showing us his
snow-white teeth. The horses have since vanished in the fog. “They
will come back,” says Frank.
At night, there is thunder, storm and rain, but we sleep tight after 1,100
metres of ascent. The next morning we are greeted by fog and a temperature of only five degrees. We grab hold of our hiking sticks with
our cold hands and follow the silhouette of the person in front of us.
FOG ABOVE THE UFO LANDING FIELD
It turns out to be the perfect atmosphere for the Enladrillado though,
a mysterious platform made of flat stones. The Chileans like to speculate whether they are a natural phenomenon, or left-overs from the
Inkas or maybe aliens. Usually, the famous “UFO landing field” offers
splendid views but today, the fog dominates the view. This is not
Allgäu anymore, but neither it is Chile. We feel as if we have arrived
in a different world.
The days in “Zona Sur” fly by. On the way back to the airport, we see
volcano peaks one last time, in the west we can visualise the blue
Pacific Ocean. Big farms, billboards, rusty soccer goalposts and a
palm tree now and then. It is a bit familiar, a bit different and pretty
fascinating. The “Zona Sur” has served us well: We have fallen in
love with a new continent.
<<
SOUTH AMERICA FOR BEGINNERS
Aconcagua
6959 m
Chile’s “Zona Sur” is a hiking paradise and winter escape – and perfect for South America
beginners who want to go on guided tours.
Valparaíso
SANTIAGO
Talca
Getting there: Flight from Frankfurt to
Santiago: LATAM flies via Sao Paulo and
LAN airlines via Madrid. To explore the
“Zona Sur”, fly from Santiago to Puerto
Montt (2 hours) and travel by (rental) car
to Chiloé and then peu à peu up north.
Chiloé to Talca and included many
beautiful hikes in the Chiloé, Vincente
Perez Rosales, Huerquehue (“Tres
Lagos”), Conquillio (araucarias forest)
national parks and the Altos del Lircay
Natural Reserve .
Best time: Great from September to
April. The further north you travel in the
Chilean summer (especially in December
and January), the warmer it gets.
Guided tour with Wikinger: The “Zona
Sur” is included in Wikinger Reise’s tour
“(Un-)bekannte Höhepunkte Patagoniens” which also includes the “Sur
Grande”. Info: www.wikinger-reisen.de/
fernreisen/suedamerika/4520.php.
Another trip in February 2017 also offers
Getting around the “Zona Sur”: Our
tour took ten days from the island of
Altos del
Lircay
some overlapping routes: www.
wikinger-reisen.de/fernreisen/
suedamerika/4518T.php
On your own: Planning (rental car,
hiking organisation) is manageable but
Spanish skills are needed. German-speaking expats are of great help, some offer
accommodation and useful information.
Casa Chueca in Talca for example is a
wonderful place. The Turismo El
Caminante agency is also based there,
and helped planning this tour.
CHILE
Temuco
Lago Llanquihue
Nationalpark
Conguillio
Llaima
3125 m
Osorno
2652 m ARGENTINIEN
Puerto Montt
FESSELNDE CLIMBING-FILMACTION MIT DEN INTERNATIONALEN
KLETTERGRÖSSEN AUF DER NOCH GRÖSSEREN LEINWAND
25.09.
26.09.
27.09.
28.09.
29.09.
30.09.
01.10.
02.10.
09.10.
10.10.
12.10.
13.10.
14.10.
KÖLN
WIESBADEN
DORTMUND
KASSEL
ERFURT
JENA
DARMSTADT
STUTTGART
STEPHANSKIRCHEN
GILCHING
WALDKRAIBURG
NÜRNBERG
BAYREUTH
15.10.
16.10.
17.10.
18.10.
19.10.
20.10.
21.10.
22.10.
23.10.
24.10.
25.10.
26.10.
31.10.
13 E VVK | 15 E ABENDKASSE
ERMÄSSIGT 11 E (GLOBETROTTERCARD-INHABER,
ALPENVEREINS- UND KLETTERHALLENMITGLIEDER) *
90
180
270 km
FRANKFURT
FREIBURG
KAISERSLAUTERN
AUGSBURG
MÜNCHEN
MANNHIEM
BIELEFELD
LÜNEBURG
BREMEN
HAMBURG
BERLIN
WETZLAR
SIEGEN
05.11.
06.11.
07.11.
08.11.
09.11.
11.11.
12.11.
13.11.
14.11.
16.11.
19.11.
20.11.
ESSEN
BENSHEIM
HEILBRONN
ULM
BISCHOFSWIESEN
LAPPERSDORF/
KARETH
DRESDEN
LEIPZIG
BERLIN
HAMBURG
SCHEIDEGG
WÜRZBURG
TICKETS AB AUGUST BEI GLOBETROTTER, ANDEREN VORVERKAUFSSTELLEN
UND ONLINE UNTER WWW.REEL-ROCK.EU
TICKETS:
Chiloé
0
DIE REEL ROCK 11 - AB 25.09. WIEDER AUF TOUR
* ZZGL. SYSTEMGEBÜHREN
In Zusammenarbeit mit:
TICKETS & TRAILER
PROGRAMMINFOS,
WWW.REEL-ROCK
.EU
Eine Präsentation von
56
57
<< CITY GUIDE >>
Having completed his apprenticeship at Globetrotter, Johannes Carl
(23), originally from Swabia, is now responsible for the events at
Globetrotter's Frankfurt store. Last big trip: Munich – Venice by bicycle.
He got together with his colleagues to create this guide.
FRANKFURT
WITH
A
LOCAL
The city boasts one of the most
important airports in Europe, and is
the starting point for great trips – but
it has a lot to offer itself, too.
Protokoll
Julian Rohn
The Römer town hall has been the
heart of the city since the 15th century.
Imperial coronations on Römer Hill were
celebrated long before the area started to be
used to welcome soccer teams. St. Paul's
Church is just around the corner, and the
German National Assembly took place there
in 1848/1849 – the first voluntarily freely-elected representative body of the people.
The Eiserne Steg was built in 1868
and financed by the citizens of Frankfurt. It is the central connection across the
Main river for pedestrians and cyclists alike.
You can reach the museum area via
the bridge on the southern side of the
River Main. Amongst others, there is the
Städel – Städelsches Kunstinstitut und Städtische Galerie – which is one of Germany’s
most important art galleries. In total, 34
museums are included in the Museumsufer
ticket (www.museumsufer-frankfurt.de).
Illustration
Martin Haake
The Empire State Building of Frankfurt
is called Main Tower. It is located in
the centre of the banking district and offers the highest view above the city for
€ 6.50 (Neue Mainzer Straße 52-58,
www.maintower.de).
Not far away is the main station district
which is becoming ever more a multi-cultural meeting point. The same can be
said about the Moseleck (Moselstraße 21), a
100 year old pub. A bit scruffy but cult.
Go on a culinary excursion to Eritrea at
the restaurant Im Herzen Afrikas. The
East African dishes are guaranteed to awaken a longing for Africa (Gutleutstraße 13,
www.im-herzen-afrikas.de).
From Monday to Saturday, you can
purchase local (green sauce!) as well
as international specialities in the Kleinmarkthalle – or simply enjoy the >>
58
<< CITY GUIDE >>
ACTIVITIES AROUND MAINHATTEN
Winterurlaub mit Wikinger Reisen
59
market’s atmosphere (Hasengasse 5-7,
www.kleinmarkthalle.de).
Die rote Bar is located directly at the
Main. According to insiders, this is the
place for the best cocktails of the city (Mainkai 7, www.rotebar.com).
On the other side of the Main River lies
Alt-Sachsenhausen with many restaurants and apple wine bars. Hotspots are
Brücken- and Wallstraße. There are also
several fine little shops in the area.
Gorillas! And around 449 more species can be discovered in Germany’s
second-oldest zoo (Bernhard-Grzimek-Allee
1, www.zoo-frankfurt.de).
The Senckenberg nature museum is
a bit older. It is one of the country’s
largest museums of natural science and accommodates an impressive dinosaur collection. Not only kids will be amazed. (Senckenberganlage 25, www.senckenberg.de).
Exotic kinds of plants can be found in
the Palmengarten, one of Germany’s
largest botanical gardens (on Siesmayerstraße 61, www.palmengarten.de).
Globetrotter colleagues like to enjoy
their Schnitzel (breaded pork) with
real green sauce after work in the Frankfurter Küche (located at Hanauer Landstraße
86, www.restaurant-frankfurter-kueche.de).
The Oosten offers the contrast to that.
A fine restaurant at the harbour with
a lot of glass, exposed concrete and a terrace
with a view to cranes (Mayfarthstraße 4,
www.oosten-frankfurt.com).
The harbour park is inviting for sunbathing and picnicking on the lawn
Canoe
Kanu Schalles organises tours and
hires out boats on the Nidda (25)
(www.kanu-schalles.de).
on the Rother touren App. Get the
tour ”Kündigsteiner Taunusberge“
(27) exclusively as a GPS download:
http://goo.gl/ZjqnEd.
Pilgrimage
The Camino de Santiago passes
the Globetrotter store (26).
Bicycle
Terranova hires out bicycles and
offers guided city tours (www.
terranovatouristik.de). There is a
little bike park at the Feldberg in
Taunus (27).
Hiking
Great tours can be found in Rother’s
hiking guide “Rund um Frankfurt”),
Globetrotter order number:
26.13.53, € 14.90, or as a download
Rock climbing
Both the DAV climbing hall (28)
with its great outdoor wall
(Homburger Landstraße 283, www.
kletterzentrum-frankfurtmain.de)
as well as Boulder World Frankfurt
(29) (August-Schanz-Straße 50,
www.boulderwelt-frankfurt.de) can
be found in the north of the city .
Winterliches Lappland:
wild, romantisch, aktiv
• In kleinen Gruppen
• Langlauf, Schneeschuhwanderungen, Huskytour
• Mit etwas Glück Nordlichter
beobachten
Sightseeing tour
The “Ebbelwei-Expreß“ tram (30)
runs hourly on weekends and
public holidays. Includes an audio
guide as a podcast. Info & schedule:
www.ebbelwei-express.de.
8 Tage ab 2.095 €
Natur und Kultur im
isländischen Winter
amongst mature trees. And board and bicycle artists are entertaining to watch at the
Skatepark Osthafen (Mayfarthstraße).
Another oasis in the big city is the
Swedler Lake at the end of Osthafen.
A miniature biotope with many water birds
and varieties of fish (www.schwedlersee.de).
The Berger Straße is very popular
amongst the locals in Frankfurt because of its many restaurants and cafés. The
Sonamu Korean restaurant (Berger Straße
184) is a good tip.
The only vineyard within the city can
be found on Lohrberg. You have a
great view from the Lohrberg tavern (Auf
dem Lohr 9, www.lohrberg-schaenke.de).
The green belt encircles the inner city
and can be explored on a 62 kilometre
long cycle path. Tower Café can be found in
the middle on the old American airfield
which was turned into a leisure area in 2002
(Am Burghof 55, www.tower-cafe.de).
You can find partly weird but always very creative productions at
the Landungsbrücken, a young underground theatre (Gutleutstraße 294,
www.landungsbruecken.org).
The Schwanheimer Düne is a nature
reserve with areas of sand, grass and
forest as well as little lakes. The dunes are
something unusual for Hessen and are a bi-
• Leichte Winterwanderungen
vom Golden Circle bis zur
Gletscherlagune
• In kleinen Gruppen Islands Süden
entdecken
• Deutschsprachige WikingerReiseleitung
otope for several rare types of animals and
plants close to extinction.
The Stadium open air pool is a lit­tle
dated but has a ten-metre spring
board and a 50 metre long outdoor pool in
a beautiful setting (www.bbf-frankfurt.de/
freibad-stadion).
8 Tage ab 1.948 €
An insider's tip on a 500 metre long
and narrow peninsula on the left
bank of the Main is the Licht- und Luftbad
Niederrad (public park in Niederrad). It's
an urbane biotope and an escape venue for
the city folks.
Winterzauber im
Bayerischen Wald
• Individuelle Reise
• Langlauf, Winter- und Schneeschuhwanderungen
• Entspannung im Wellnessbereich
des 4-Sterne-Hotels
The 43 metre high Goethe Tower at
Frankfurt’s city forest offers a view
of the green belt and the skyline of Mainhatten. There is a forest play park with a maze
and a pool for kids at its base.
<<
8 Tage ab 539 €
Jetzt
informieren
Infos und Kataloge erhalten Sie unter:
www.wikinger.de oder 02331 – 9046
Wikinger Reisen GmbH
Kölner Str. 20, 58135 Hagen
Bild: © ARochau | fotolia.com
Not only Frankfurt is quite green. Thanks to the Taunus mountain range, amongst
others, the outskirts of the city also have a lot of activities to offer.
61
<< TRAVEL >>
Text
Thomas Jutzler
A
If the autumn once again knocks on the door
too early, you can keep it at bay for a couple of
weeks by going to Carinthia.
look outside the window. It is drizzling. Grey clouds. It already seems
like autumn and there is a long
weekend ahead of us. I remember our parents always used to go with us to Carinthia
at this time of the year. To extend the summer. So, back to the southern side of the Alps.
With no smart phone. Holidays like in the
good old days.
Five days later, I am on the peak of
Großglockner with two other brave early
birds. Our mountain guide Sabine looks at
her watch. Exactly seven. The sun will rise in
a few minutes. While the others start playing
with their smartphones, I just stand there
watching. Waiting. Enjoying the event. The
clouds are sitting in the valley like a flock of
sheep. I am looking at the famous Kaiserkreuz when suddenly, it's little gold-coated
Jesus gives me a wink. A reflection. The sun
has just risen and illuminated the cross. Slowly, bit by bit, it inches up from behind the
Tauern mountain chain to light up the sky.
T O W A R D S
THE
SUN
A GOOD IDEA
Accommodation
The Natur Aktiv Partnerbetriebe are a good address.
They are specialised in hikers, and the nature
experience begins right at their doorstep.
www.kaernten.at/qualitaet
Inspiration
A good source of inspiration can be found on www.
berglust.at. You can find travel ideas from culinary walks
to Großglockner expeditions.
Long distance hiking down south
If you have more time, you can hike along the favourite
stretch of the Alpe Adria Trail. The 750 km long tour of
discovery over 43 stages from Großglockner, through
Austria, Slovenia and Italy, and onto the Adriatic Sea and
Triest. Handy: The Alpe Adria Trail booking centre helps
with organisation, how to choose which stage, and
luggage transport. Phone: +43/48 24 27 00 30,
www.alpe-adria-trail.com.
The Nock Mountains have been a
biosphere reserve since 2012. They have
always been a hilly hiking paradise.
Photos: Franz Gerdl/KW (2), Glantschnig/KW
60
0
15
30
45 km
KÄRNTEN
Judenburg
Klagenfurt
Großglockner
3797 m
Dra u
Gail
Wolfsberg
Biosphärenpark
Nockberge
Klagenfurt
Spittal
am Wörthersee
Villach
Völkermarkt
Rays of light shoot at us making the peak
glimmer in silver. Gigantic. What the others
only experience on the screens of their smartphones, I experience live. In tranquillity and
without any filter.
We descend to the Erzherzog-Johann hut
where we spent the night. The wooden plate
laden with ham, cheese, salami and other
goodies is fantastic. Now that the most exhausting and yet most sublime part of the day
has already taken place, I simply feel I'm in
paradise. Such as the view to the alpine valleys which are slowly wakening, or the smell
of fresh bread and speck. Nice feeling of
heaviness in the legs. And the best thing is, I
do not automatically grab for my smartphone.
Change of scenery. The dutiful call of
Großglockner is followed by more leisurely
enjoyment. I want to spend the rest of the
weekend in the Nock Mountains doing many
easy hikes, interspersed with a good few
“Jausen” – little meal breaks of cold rural
meats and cheeses served on a wooden board
and often washed down with a schnapps. The
mountains got their name because of their
softly curved, round (“nockig”) mountain
peaks. Somehow, this area on the southern
side of the Alps reminds me of Toscana but
at a higher altitude: It is quite warm for mid
October. The light appears as if somebody
had edited the landscape with an Instagram
filter. I'm at it again, still letting the smartphone world sneak back into my consciousness. Nevertheless. The light is just beautiful!
THE SOFT WAY
When you come here for hikes, you want to
have fun. And this is what I am doing. The
first port of call on my short trip back in time
to my childhood at the Nock Mountains is the
Tiebel Springs. The water gushes and gurgles
out of probably more than a hundred springs
scattered along the forest floor. There are
small and smaller creeks everywhere, which
finally unite into the Tiebel at one point. Mini
barriers create little lakes. What was once a
cultural landscape (there were more than
100 mills between the source and Lake Ossiach) has turned into a gigantic water playground. With pure drinkable water. I bend
down to the burbling streams and take a sip.
Swoooosh! I am twelve years old again. A
taste of childhood. It was at this spot in nature where I tasted natural water for the first
time. A once-in-a-lifetime experience.
I keep hiking a bit further through the hilly
On top! View from Großglockner (3,797 m) to
the adjoining Kleinglockner (3,770 m).
A handmade Carinthian pasta looks
almost too good to eat.
landscape to what is probably the most sunkissed alp in Carinthia. The view at the top
of the mountain in the Gerlitzen Alpe is one
of the most beautiful in the region and is also
on the Alpe Adria Trail. The view to the emerald green Lake Ossiach is unique.
The next day. I am in the Reichenau Plain
and join up with group led by a biosphere
reserve ranger for part of their hiking tour
through the round mountains. Destination is
Austria’s oldest farm health spa. We pass
whistling marmots and creaking pines and
when we reach Eisentalhöhe, we are greeted
by a panorama view like no other. Just like
the aroma of the pine schnapps that ranger
Stefan conjures up out of the inner pocket of
his camouflage outfit as a reward. The flask
is passed around and we get back on our way.
The descent leads directly to Karlbad. There,
we sit in a wooden bath of steaming water
between ancient stone walls and feel the
deep relaxing effects of spring water heated
by glowing rocks.
The home-made dish of Carinthian pasta
they serve us afterwards tastes just as good
as it looks. And – happily – I feel no need to
take a photo of it before I grab the fork. Instead, I just admire it blissfully and tell myself
that from now on I will go on holiday without
my phone. Just like in the old days.
<<
70
(S) L I G H T (L Y)
C R A Z Y !
A cruise along the Norwegian coast on the Hurtigruten route
is a classic. And even more so in winter,
in search of the Northern Lights.
And in the darkness, there is not only magic in the sky.
D
amn it! Just made myself really
comfortable in bed listening to the
ups and downs of the groaning
boat and then this announcement from the
speakers in a soft purring lady's voice: “Dear
passengers, the Northern Lights have just
appeared on the starboard side.” And now?
My comfort-loving inner self says: “Stay inside, it is so comfy here.” But because this is
my first encounter with the Northern Lights,
which have been preoccupying my mind like
a myth for years, despite the late hour, I am
able to persuade the lazy inner sloth to get
Text and Photos
Ingo Hübner
out into the icy night. And what we see outside makes our small warm hearts beat a
little faster in awe. The sky is a showcase for
something which cannot be of this world, it
is supernaturally beautiful. Space and time
merge into one, the stars and the Northern
Lights illuminate the outlines of the coast
and the sea, and everything blends in the
dim supernatural river of movement. And
the boat chugs along undeterred through
the frosty black night.
For the Vikings, however, the Northern
Lights marked the start of bad times. Some-
71
<< TRAVEL >>
where, the gods were having a fight and the
wafting swirling lights were murmuring the
imminent demise of mankind. That could
happen quite fast during the long, dark winters during which bears, wolves and ghosts
were waiting in every dark corner. But the
worst thing was that the oscillating lights
could theoretically induce the Fimbulwinter,
the ice age with three mighty winters in succession, preceded by the Ragnarök, the demise of the world of the gods. And the end
of the world of gods meant the end of humankind. So what did the Vikings do? Of
course they held a sacrificial ceremony for
the return of the sun, to honour Odin, the
god father, and Freyr, the fertility god.
We travel by bus straight across the Lofoten
in the jet-black darkness of night to the sacrificial ceremony. The site features an enormous authentic reproduction of a Viking
chief's house. Boss Olaf has served up a feast
to keep his nightly visitors in merry spirits:
there's mead and meat accompanied by
singing and dancing together with his crew.
And then he suddenly gets serious, one of
the guests present should marry his daughter. He chooses me – could be because I am
one of the youngest specimens around – but
I turn down his offer with the explanation
that I had recently wed another lady in a
village nearby. So he then chooses a young
man next to me who originates from another unknown world (USA), but who is not
regarded as the perfect emperor because of
his broken arm.
ly not a windy area, but then the sturdy tripod and camera do somehow get blown over
when we do a selfie against the backdrop of
the big globe.
Back on board, we gaze through the windows on our panoramic deck. Houses, huts,
churches, light houses and street lights pass
by, all seemingly glued to the often
snow-covered coastal mountains like a diorama in the steel-grey and blue light of winter. A seatmate gives me an update: “I posted a picture of our evening entertainment
program on Facebook: Dance with the king
crab. Oh, there was so much applause!”
Magical things do not only happen in the
sky on the polar night.
Russia is near at hand when we arrive in
Kirkenes, the turning point on the Hurtingruten route. Road signs point towards Murmansk, rusty freighters are moored in the
old harbour, their Cyrillic names rusting off
their hulls. The aura could be so morbid if
it weren't for the Scandinavian designer
apartments in the pedestrian area and the
espresso in the Café which tastes like summer in Sicily. But it all adds up to a surreal
and wonderfully magic feeling. As if it was
all not part of this world.
<<
THROUGH THE
POLAR NIGHT
Getting there: To reach the departure harbour for the
Hurtigruten trip, fly straight to Bergen or Trondheim.
The latter is the better option to see the North Lights as
they usually first show up in the northern latitudes.
On board: As the Hurtigruten is a mail boat line, you
can create your own individual journey – you can simply
hop off and on at each harbour. You can also take part
on many cultural excursions and activities.
Plan and book on www.hurtigruten.de The chances of
seeing the Northern Lights are the greatest during the
months of October to March.
0
150
300
450 km
= Hurtigruten
Tromsø
Kirkenes
SCHWEDEN
Trondheim
FINNLAND
NORWEGEN
Bergen OSLO
HELSINKI
STOCKHOLM
OFF TO THE NORTH CAPE
“Please put your seatbelts on”, announces
the next tour guide laughing into the microphone in the bus at the North Cape. “There
are only five policemen on the island and
three of them spend the winter on Gran Canaria anyway.” The winter sun does not
make its way above the horizon for more
than two months. At least it is quite warm
– it's minus 5 degrees – but at the same latitude in Alaska it is minus 45 degrees. We
travel through undulating white Arctic tundra devoid of trees and bushes all the way
to the glimmering horizon. In summer there
can be a crowd of up to 10,000 people at the
North Cape, but today there are only 180 in
three buses. So according to our guide, we
can enjoy the most northerly spot of Europe
high above the graphite-coloured ocean in
calmness and still meditation. It is apparent-
At the very blue hour at lunch time in
Kirkenes harbour.
A relaxed Viking boss called Olaf
on his throne.
76
<< TRAVEL >>
The eyes scan across the Serengeti, focus on
termite hills and water holes. And then,
everything which moves is shot at:
zebras, lions, rhinos, tigers.
After the hunt, my prey piles up on
the bed of my jeep, a 1978 Playmobil.
To celebrate the end of the hunt, a cold drink is
ready and waiting for us at the impressive ranch,
up high on the hills of my duvet.
PHOTO
TIME!
Text & Photos
Michael Neumann
77
78
T
That is roughly how my winter afternoons
with my toys were like when I was a child.
When I was grounded, I drove my mother
crazy by playing the big-game hunter instead of complaining about being forced to
stay at home.
When I enter the place of my childhood
dreams “for real” centuries later, I arrive in
peace. I am only equipped with a stately
camera backpack which is home to two
camera bodies, several wide-angle lenses
and a proper barrel of a lens to capture as
much as possible of the yellow of a lion’s
eye. I am part of a photo safari, organised
by the Diamir Travel Agency from Dresden.
Meeting point is a lodge near Kilimanjaro
Airport at Arusha. I know how to handle my
camera but an organised photo safari is
something totally new for me. Will the
guide herd the wild animals in front of our
cameras and the tour leader ring a bell to
signal the arrival of the perfect motif? And
in the evening, everybody has to put five
euros into the money box for mentioning
the “sunny 16 rule”? I think of Cilla Black
and her “Surprise! Surprise!”
The first impression of the other participants
is very positive. A varied group of men and
women, a human geneticist, a vet, a pathologist, a son, an event manager and an SAP
consultant three weeks before his retirement. Very important for the photographer’s
ego: Nobody has a bigger lens than anybody
else – except the tour guide. Jörg Ehrlich is
co-founder of Diamir and has been organizing photography tours to all corners of the
world for more then 20 years. So his lens – a
600 mm with a starting aperture of 4.0 – is
totally okay.
VISIONARY GRZIMEK
The next day, we fly by prop plane directly
into the Serengeti. We pass the Ngorongoro
crater, the inspiration for the branding of
the Playmobil safari series of the 80s. I sit
there in awe. It was at this location that the
legendary Bernhard Grzimek explored the
animal-rich savannah of East Africa and laid
the foundations for an animal protection
project which was exceedingly visionary at
his time. More about that later.
79
<< TRAVEL >>
Behind the acacia, the
vastness of the Serengeti, on
the acacia, the leopard
– Africa’s most famous
national park is a feast for all
senses and sensors. Luckily,
you can take an endless
amount of gigabyte storage
with you instead of 36
pictures on a film roll.
Welcome to the
Serengeti, as big as
Bavaria! Wildlife unfolds here just like it
did 1,000 years ago.
Our accommodation for the first two nights
in the Serengeti is quite noble. The Serengeti
Serena Safari Lodge consists of twin-storey
rondavels – which are typical African circular huts – and a main building where food
is served. The guests are mostly elderly
Americans whose main interests are focussed on the deckchairs at the pool and the
buffet which has just started. Our group
speaks with one united voice and we skip
dinner or a shower and head off instead on
an evening “Game Drive”. The hours in >>
>>
80
81
<< TRAVEL >>
Once again, the animals take no notice of us
whatsoever. The drivers positions our cars
into photo position and kills the engine. For
more than two hours we busily watch and
document the wild happening. If we were
on a “normal” safari which typically crosses
the Serengeti in three or four days, the passengers would have probably already asked
to continue with their journey after only 15
minutes – in the hopes they would not miss
anything somewhere else. Our trip, however, lasts nine days and eight nights in Africa’s most spectacular national park.
Another small but important difference: We
use the same vehicles as everybody else, converted long-wheel-base Land Cruisers with
eight seats and a folding roof – but we are
only four people to a vehicle and not eight.
So it is possible to move around easily inside
the car and all photographers can take pho-
As soon as the first gnu jumps into the Mara river, there is no holding back for the other 999 gnus.
the evening promise the best photo light and
the cool air lures the predators from beneath
their acacia. Let’s see if we can tick “The
Kill” off our to-see-list on the first evening.
The buffet in the Serengeti is also richly laden with food and if I ever get reborn as a
lion, then it should please be at this location. We can see for kilometres, only mountain ranges limit the panorama at the horizon like a silhouette in a theatre play. The
plains in between seem to be pixelated with
black dots as if a camera sensor is dusty. All
those dots are actually various herds of animals. There are gnus, zebras, antelopes,
intermingled with giraffes and elephants.
We guess there are around 5,000 animals in
front of us. And behind us, there are three
lionesses.
They do not care if we are there or not. Except for the cover which our vehicle provides
them. They are locked on to antelopes to our
right. Carefully, and against the wind, they
move towards them centimetre for centimetre. That takes minutes. Until a bird gets a
whiff of them and sounds a general shrill
alarm. Immediately, their mobile buffet scatters and the linonesses are initially left out
in the cold. The “Kill” must be postponed.
The night in the lodge is quiet. I only need
to get used to the constant roaring of lions
outside – despite the thick walls, the solid
door and a bed on the second floor. My
“help – there's a sabre-tooth tiger instinct”
must still be active somewhere deep down
in the brainstem.
ZEBRA FOR BREAKFAST
The Game Drive in the morning shows the
cause of the nightly commotion. Only one
kilometre away, we find a family of lions
eating into a downed zebra with relish.
Komfort auf
höchstem Niveau
Travel guide
Ehrlich (www.
joerg-ehrlich.de)
with the fathers of
the Serengeti:
Bernhard Grzimek
and Tansania's
President Nyerere.
tos on all sides. Just unimaginable to think
that a cheetah is maybe hunting an antelope
on the left but you are sitting on the right
and can only see the mullet hairstyle of your
fellow traveller in front of your lens.
After a second night in the castle-like lodge,
we change accommodation and make our
way to the actual destination of the journey:
the Mara River Crossing.
Twice a year, more then 1.2 million Serengeti
gnus crossing the Mara – the boarder river
between Tansania and Kenya – looking for
the greenest pastures. Their journey from
south to north is pretty civilized because the
topography of the riverside favours that direction. But on the way back from the Masai
Mara, the Kenyan part of the Serengeti,
thousands of gnus face the daunting challenge of a river embankment metres high.
And none of them have remembered the
right spot from six months ago. So they trot
franticly and indecisively from one direction
to the other along the edge of the embankment. Until there is too much pressure and
squeezing from behind and the first gnu
jumps into the floods. Following the primal
instinct, the whole heard then follows.
The spectacle – which takes place within a
four-week period – is not as impressive this
year because most of the gnus have already
made their way through the river and are
come towards us in the centre of the
Serengeti. Nevertheless, even with only hundreds instead of thousands, you can still enjoy a great spectacle. This year the water
level of the Mara was already slightly above
normal at the start of the short rainy season
which further reduced the number of >>
to go further
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83
<< TRAVEL >>
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Only one second earlier, we were just thinking about taking a pee behind the vehicle…
possible “safe” passage points for the animals. And
when the short-sighted gnus run head on into
what at first sight appears to be a pile of stones,
but up close turns out to be a hippo family, the
atmosphere amongst us is electrifying. Not to mention the crocodiles which seem to be too occupied
with their digestion process at the end of the crossing and appear to have no space left for dessert.
The fact that the world’s largest animal migration
is still happening as it did for thousand years is
down to the visionary thinking of the legendary
Prof. Bernhard Grzimek. Yes, that's the guy who
explained things on TV in the 60s and 70s with a
chimpanzee on his shoulder. Grzimek first came
to Tansania in the 50s to find animals for his zoo
in Frankfurt. At the same time, he devoted a great
deal of time to studying animal behaviour in the
area so rich in fauna and made sure that the
Serengeti received appropriate protection status
which it still benefits from today. Working together with his son Michael, he also shot his Oscar-winning wildlife film “Serengeti Shall Not
Die”.
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Only recently, there was talk about the need for
a long-distance highway straight across the park
which would have connected the inland areas
with the harbours of the Indian Ocean. The price
for that would probably have been the end of the
migration. The government of Tansania has since
put a stop to such plans, and except for little
boarder conflicts with Massai ethnic groups
which want to let their cattle graze in the
Serengeti, the future of the Serengeti is brighter
than ever before.
We spend the nights in a so-called Tented Camp
in Northern Serengeti. They are solid house tents
TANSANIA
Lodgesafari und Sansibar
The object of desire? Find it in full beauty on
page 78, top left.
with their own bathrooms complete with showers. There are however only a few millimetres of
textile between lions and humans. At least, they
did hand out whistles to us which will enable us
to whistle up help in an emergency. Such camps
are regarded as the ultimate Africa experience
because of their closeness to flora and fauna. The
ecological impact of such accommodation is minimal, especially because they are moved every
three months – always following the herd of animals. What remains behind is a sealed natural
latrine and my cold sweat.
It is quite a special sensation lying in a tent not
knowing what animal it is which is sniffing outside. You try to tell yourself it is probably only a
mouse or suchlike. Until a lion roaring in the distance reminds you of the continent you are on.
As I notice that nobody from our group has gone
missing when we get together at the breakfast
table after six overnight stays, I finally make
peace with this kind of accommodation.
The days float by with calm routine. As everybody
wants to capture the great morning light, >>
14 Tage Komfortsafari und Strand
ab 3690 € inkl. Flug
• Auf Safari in den 5 schönsten
Nationalparks Tansanias
• Faszinierende Tierbeobachtungen
• Safari-Camp, das der Tierwanderung folgt
• Übernachtung in komfortablen
Lodges & Camps
• Optionales Vorprogramm:
Besteigung des Kilimanjaro
Erfüllen Sie sich den Traum
einer Safari in Afrika!
ANIA
PERU
TANS
CO
· ST
BOALIV
RI IEN
ILI
·2017
KA
EN
RIBIK
2017
CA
KENIA
RUAND
· BR
UGANDAM
EXIK
INDIEN
ASOA ·
20
2017
17
Kuba · Domin
Panama · Nicaraikanische Republik
· Karibis
gua
Natur- und Kulturreisen · Trekking ·
che Inselw
· Honduras
Kleingrupp
· Flüge
elt
· El Salvad
· Unterkünfte
Kleingruppenreisen ·enreisen
· Reisebaust
Reisebausteine
Individualreisen
or··Unterkünfte
· Reisebausteine
eine · Unterkünft
Guatem
Kleingruppenreisen · Individualreisen
ala
e · Flüge
Safaris · Fotoreisen · Expeditionen
DIAMIR Erlebnisreisen GmbH
Berthold-Haupt-Str. 2 · 01257 Dresden
[email protected]
& 0351 31 20 77
www.diamir.de
84
Ticket
Rabatte
<< TRAVEL >>
10 PHOTO TIPS FOR SAFARIS
How to do it: raise it to your shoulder, choose the frame, focus, and fire…
1.
New light telephoto lens + crop factor
Modern photo equipment makes it possible.
Nikon, Sigma and Tamron all offer super medium-fast
(i.e. with relatively large apertures) telephoto zooms up
to 500/600 millimetres which feature sensational
imaging. When you combine them with a high-resolution APS-C camera whose crop factor increases the focal
length by the factor 1.5 and the resolution factor allows
zooming, you end up with effectively 1,000 millimetres
of focal length.
2.
Increase the ISO when necessary
In the early days, the photographer combined
time and aperture, nowadays you can also turn up the
ISO for more light sensitivity. If you own a new camera,
you should definitely use this function. The new
models can handle the noise associated with a higher
ISO pretty well and a sharp image of a cheetah at ISO
1600 is better than a blurry ball of fur at ISO 100.
3.
Bean bag + tripod
The first choice for sharp photos out of a vehicle
is a bean bag. Nevertheless, you should not forget a
tripod because when the starry sky settles down at
night in camp, and there is a perfect new moon, the
milky way is irresistible.
4.
Second camera body with wide angle
A safari is not only bumpy but also quite dusty.
To prevent the risk of getting dust in your camera body
when you change a lens, it is recommendable to take a
second body with you. So you have a camera with a
telephoto and one with a wide angle always on hand
– in case a cheetah jumps onto the bonnet.
5.
Enough time, even for filming
As you spend a long time observing individual
animals, there is enough time to try out your camera's
movie function. So you can not only take beautiful
pictures, but also a nice holiday movie.
6.
Regular sensor check
Nothing is more annoying than a blue sky
speckled with spots of dust. Therefore, you should
check the sensor is clean every night and possibly clean
it with bellows and a cleaning stick if necessary.
7.
Camera backpack with quick access
The animals in the Serengeti are in no rush.
Nevertheless, it is an advantage when you can get your
camera out of your backpack quickly. If you only work
with one camera body, it is good to think about the
lens that could be of use at the next stop – and to put it
on in advance.
8.
Beware of the bumps!
The pothole roads do not only jolt your spine but
also your equipment. So you should not transport your
camera without padding. A good camera backpack
offers great protection, and best to put a bean back
underneath it too. If the going really gets tough, place
your backpack on your lap.
9.
Lens hood as lens protection
It is no secret a lens hood can prevent unwanted
reflections in the front lens. However, it can also protect
your lens from dirt when it gets busy on board again
and there's suddenly a leopard at 8 o'clock.
10.
Find the unusual
You can expect that everything has already
been photographed in the Serengeti. But not by
everybody. When everybody else is pointing their
telephoto lenses at the seventh leopard of the day, why
not capture the whole scene with a wide angle lens? Or
why not draw attention to the landscape at the back?
there are no discussions when our guide tells
us the time to get up in the morning. And in
the late afternoon when the horses are saddled up again after a siesta in the camp, we
cannot hold back our excitement. It does not
matter how bumpy the roads are when the
rewards are exciting animal observations
and a great photo. Once again, we wait for
hours near a big pride of lions. We take all
the time in the world for our photos and observe the social behaviour of the majestic
animals. We see 97 lions in total over nine
days in the Serengeti, and our pathologist
counted them!
In the evening, when the blue hour has given way to an inky black night, we sit by the
camp fire talking about how puny we are
beneath the incredibly starry sky.
Our hunting instinct grows with every day.
We were quickly able to check the Big Five
off our list: lion, buffalo, rhino, elephant and
leopard. We also see many cheetahs through
the finder. We do not get “The Kill”. But the
many stalking lions, and a giant crocodile
which spins many bite-sized chunks off its
prey – a gazelle – and downs the neck complete with horns – are just as good.
Once, we park in the shadow of a bush at
the River Mara waiting for an animal crossing when a branch next to us comes alive. A
bilious green snake as thick as a thumb is
wiggling between young shoots. It's a young
boomslang, a good example of an animal
with a striking colour which can nevertheless be pretty poisonous. One more reason
not to leave the vehicle when on a safari.
On our last day, I conjure up the Playmobil
hunter from my childhood days out of my
bag to show him his roots. Instead of a gun
however, he is now carrying a camera case.
And shooting only with a camera.
<<
Also off to Serengeti?
The journey described is offered
every year by Africa Specialist Diamir at a
price of 5,590 euros excluding flights. Next
date is 27th October 2016 when Maximilian Weinzierl will be on board as the travel
guide and the motif bell-ringer. If you want
to go on safari without photo shootings,
Diamir also offers many exciting trips to
Tansania.
Find all information about the trip on www.
diamir.de, general information and inspiration on www.tansania.de. Find the film of the
journey on www.globetrotter-magazin.de­/
serengeti, and further pictures at the XXL app
on www.globetrotter-magazin.de/app.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC präsentiert:
Jana und Jens Steingässer LIVE:
DIE WELT VON MORGEN
EINE FAMILIE AUF DEN SPUREN DES KLIMAWANDELS
L I V E - R E P O RTAG E
Eine Ethnologin und ein Fotograf reisen mit vier Kindern im Alter
von 1 bis 15 Jahren an spektakuläre Plätze auf unserer Erde,
die schon vom Klimawandel betroffen sind. Klimawandel nicht
abstrakt, sondern zum Anfassen!
14.11.2016
15.11.2016
16.11.2016
17.11.2016
18.11.2016
20.11.2016
21.11.2016
24.11.2016
Dirk Rohrbach LIVE:
YUKON
NEUE ABENTEUER AM GROSSEN FLUSS
HUNDERT TAGE AMAZONIEN
MEINE REISE ZU DEN HÜTERN DES WALDES
3.000 Kilometer im Kanu: Dirk Rohrbach paddelt in einem selbst
gebauten Kanu aus Birkenrinde von den Quellseen des Yukon
bis zu seiner Mündung – vorbei an den berüchtigten Five Finger
Rapids und der Goldgräberstadt Dawson.
ALLE TOURINFOS, TRAILER UND TICKETS AUF
www.NATGEOpraesentiert.de
Ticketpreise im VVK: ab 16 EUR, ermäßigt für
GlobetrotterCard-Inhaber ab 12 EUR
HAMBURG
BERLIN
DRESDEN
MÜNCHEN
STUTTGART
FRANKFURT/M.
KÖLN
L I V E - R E P O RTAG E
Nach „Hundert Tage Tibet“ der neue Bildband und Vortrag des
charismatischen Münchner Fotografen York Hovest. Eine faszinierende Entdeckungsreise in das größte Regenwaldgebiet der
Erde, zu Schamanen und indigenen Völkern.
05.02.2017
07.02.2017
08.02.2017
09.02.2017
13.02.2017
14.02.2017
16.02.2017
>>
HAMBURG
KÖLN
FRANKFURT/M.
DRESDEN
STUTTGART
MÜNCHEN
BERLIN
HANNOVER
L I V E - R E P O RTAG E
16.01.2017
17.01.2017
18.01.2017
22.01.2017
23.01.2017
24.01.2017
25.01.2017
York Hovest LIVE:
für GlobetrotterCard
Inhaber
HAMBURG
BERLIN
KÖLN
DRESDEN
STUTTGART
MÜNCHEN
FRANKFURT/M.
Tickets
für alle Veranstaltungen ab 01.09.2016 in den
Globetrotter Filialen oder auf www.outdoor-ticket.net
114
<< HARDWARE >>
STATE OF THE ART
Is there such a thing as perfect equipment? Absolutely.
In state of the art, the editors introduce equipment
which sets the benchmarks in its class.
MAIN COMPARTMENT
Two cushioned compartments with
perforated EVA foam on the back to take
laptop (up to 15 inches) and tablet (up
to 10 inches). Instead of a laptop, you
can also fit a hydration system in the
back chamber (see page 115). The light
grey lining makes for a better overview.
At the front there is a little zipper pocket
for glasses or muesli bars.
Text
Julian Rohn
Find more backpack models
from Jack Wolfskin on
Globetrotter: www.globetrotter.de/
marken/jack-wolfskin.
DUC
T
BACK FRAME
The tried-and-tested Air-Control
system with central ventilation
canal sits close to your body.
The back frame is reinforced to
support the weight of the
laptop.
DETAILS
Elastic side pockets made of
knitted nylon mesh.
Compression straps to regulate
the volume. PU-coated rain
cover in the base compartment.
Attachment for a back light.
BASE COMPARTMENT
Unusual for daypacks: A separate base compartment
promotes easy organisation of the luggage (i.e.
stinky sports clothes away from clean clothes). The
zipper is round and can therefore be easily operated.
If you need the whole storage space, you can remove
the middle base with a zipper.
>>
RO
CE P
F
T E OT
A
T
S
AR
T H E UMN
REN
REFE
ATTACHMENT SYSTEM FOR
TREKKING POLES
Two loops hidden at the base
compartment and two elastic
clips on the main bag can take
trekking poles but are not
otherwise noticeable.
ORGANISER AND FRONT POCKET
Quickly accessible, with key clip,
cushioned smart phone pocket and other
compartments.
Jack Wolfskin
Crosser 26
Usage
The backpack for the journey to the office and after-work bouldering or swimming later – as
well as for weekend excursions.
Status
The briefcase for the outdoor enthusiast.
AUT 1 6
2 0
MATERIAL
The main material is tear-proof 280
denier ripstop polyamide with woven-in
reflective detailing. The base compartment is strengthened with sturdy 300
denier ripstop polyester (1 denier thread
= 1 g per 9000 m). The textile is double
PU-coated and therefore more resistant
to kinking forces and water resistant to a
water column of 1500 mm. The seams
are not sealed.
Product category
Sporty city daypack with a license for adventures.
Unsere bisher
vielseitigste
wasserdichte
Jacke
WAIST STRAP
If the belt made of EVA foam
and soft mesh lining is not
needed, you can store it behind
the back frame. On the right
wing, there is a zipper pocket
which unfolds into a handy
bottle holder.
Strategy / idea
Jack Wolfskin, Idstein, Germany.
Technical details
Weight: 1,170 g. Size: 53 x 31 x 27 cm. Volume: 26 l. Colours: wild lime/burnt olive, black/
burly yellow XT. Globetrotter order number: 28.23.95. Price: 99.95 €.
History
Jack Wolfskin was founded in 1981 in Frankfurt am Main and is one of Europe's leading
suppliers of performance outdoor clothes, shoes and equipment. One of the first
milestones in the company’s history was the development of the first double jacket – the
“Century” – with a zipped lining in 1985. In 1997, the company moved to Idstein in the
Taunus area. The 540 employees have since been working in premises at the great address
of Jack-Wolfskin-Kreisel 1 and have the Hessian uplands as their test area basically right at
the company’s doorstep. The production of outdoor equipment is generally not always
one-hundred percent environmentally friendly, the company therefore takes a stand on
sustainability and social standards. Amongst other commitments, they are members of the
Fair Wear Foundation and are a Bluesign partner. They have also set a goal of dispensing
with fluorine chemistry by 2020. You can find a complete and transparent transport chain
on their website. Jack Wolfskin was the first brand to win the Eco Achievement Award for
their integral sustainable strategy at ISPO 2016.
Patrick Stieber,
Globetrotter Frankfurt
Dirk Hondrich, Director of
Equipment at Jack Wolfskin
Laptops and tablets are common
every day devices. We take them with
us everywhere. Jack Wolfskin has
now managed to create a daypack
that does not look like a laptop
backpack and which also works well
after work.
Our main focus for the Crosser 26 was
on multifunctionality. Thoughtful
details and durable materials ensure
the backpack is a good balance
between digital office life and the
analogue outdoor world – without
compromising on each field of usage.
AIR JACKET
Leichte, wasserdichte und
atmungsaktive Drei-Lagen-Jacke
aus Pertex Shield ® AP
mo ntane.eu
132
MAKING
LASTS
133
< < M A N U FA C T U R E R > >
THE
LAST
For more than 90 years, Hanwag has been making hiking boots in
Vierkirchen according to the motto“Born in Bavaria – worn around the
World”. This traditional company keeps on striving for the perfect fit and
focuses especially on the high art of last making.
E
Text
Stephan Glocker
verybody knows
the saying “Cobbler, stick to your trade”. It means you
should not interfere in things you do not
know anything about. So what about the
trade with lasts? And anyway – what are
lasts? Wikipedia helps: “A last is a mechanical form that has a shape similar to that of
a human foot. It is used by shoemakers and
cordwainers in the manufacture and repair
of shoes. Lasts typically come in pairs and
have been made from various materials, including hardwoods, cast iron, and high-density plastics”. Aha. So it is an artificial foot.
Prototypes of shoes and boots are made
around the pair of lasts which then serve as
pattern samples for serial production.
Change of scenery, one afternoon during the
week at the Globetrotter store in Hamburg.
Shoe department. It is as busy as in an ant­
hill. Half a dozen employees are juggling
with shoe boxes and helping three customers at the same time. If you would like advice, you have to take a number and wait
your turn. It is obvious that demand for perfect fitting shoes is enormous and the route
to that goal is to try on and walk around
sampling as many models as possible – or
should we say lasts.
Most of the models of shoes of this world are
based on one norm last of which there are
up to ten proportional equivalents depending on the size categories.
Not at Hanwag. They distinguish between ten
Photos
Archive Hanwag
different lasts. And although every foot is as
individual as the rest of a human being, factor
10 gets you pretty close to the perfect fit. Especially because most people do not have any particular “distinctive features” as far as the shapes
of their feet are concerned. Hanwag footwear
made with the norm last – simply referred to as
the standard – tend to fit most people.
SPECIALIST FOR SPECIAL LASTS
If you find the standard last fits – after having had a good trying-on session at the specialist supplier – then you are in the lucky
position of being able to choose from dozens
of models of the Hanwag range. From the
Sirius II GTX for alpine tours – which is suitably stiff for crampons – to the noble Zanda
leisure shoe made of exclusive Yak leather.
But that does not mean to say that everybody
else needs to feel dejected, because that's
when shoemaker Johann Friedl comes in to
play. Johann has been with Hanwag for seven
years now and has made it his responsibility
to make six special lasts which are all slight
modifications of the classic lasts known as
Standard, Alpin, Rock and Track. And without any commercial pressure in the process,
he says, openly. So it is even more pleasing
that shoes made using the special optimised
lasts have turned into bestsellers which makes
the CEO happy – but Johann is only >>
Hanwag produces around 20% of the total output and all custom
made boots at Vierkirchen.
134
< < M A N U FA C T U R E R > >
Johann Friedl
is master of
the lasts.
No two pairs of feet are alike, and even your own
often differ from each other.
happy about the number of complaints: absolutely none.
His first official act was to devote himself to
the Narrow lasts. Shoes which are based on
this last provide much better and more defined stability for narrow feet. In contrast,
the Wide last is at the other end of the Richter scale. The heel area features a normal
cut but the ball and forefoot area are much
more spacious.
But the Hanwag popularity charts are dominated by an absolute mega hit – the Bunion
last. The Latin term for bunion is hallux valgus and refers to the discrepancy – or deviation – between the first metatarsal bone
and the big toe which goes hand in hand
with stiffening of the big toe joint. Women
in particular are especially affected by this
problem, and recently a lot of boulderers
and sport climbers too – people who squash
their feet into shoes which are too small.
The Bunion last features a recess in the area
of the big toe and so avoids the need for
many people to have an operation on the
hallux valgus.
The lasts in the hit parade are Straight Fit,
Alpin Wide and Natural Fit. Especially the
latter represents a true milestone in the art
of shoemaking and gets jolly close to the
anatomy of the human foot. A broader and
asymmetrical forefoot area, a rounded heel
shape, a reduced heel pitch and a footbed
with a recess underneath the ball of the foot
– the so-called joint pad – blend to provide
a feeling of walking barefoot. The creation
of such lasts is initially pure handwork. First,
you roughly cut a wooden block and then
carefully grind and sand it into shape. Measurements are taken every now and then, it
may sometimes be necessary to apply filler
and then gradually sand that back down.
That all comes down to the experience of
the shoemaker. And explains why most
shoemakers had to gain a few years' experience before being allowed to get their hands
on the lasts.
YOUR PERSONAL LAST
It is not until the final product makes the
shoe maker smile that the computer is
switched on and into the game. The mould
is scanned and then available digitally as a
CAD file. With a CAD programme it is possible to simulate aspects such as shrinkage
depending on the materials used, and calculate the different sizes. When that job is
done, a machine shapes several lasts accurately to within a millimetre. Then it's back
to manual handwork to make the patterns
needed for the upper part and the lining.
After that stage, punch stencils are made
according to the patterns and the original
wooden lasts are replaced by dozens of plastic ones so that serial production can then
begin. In order to ensure nothing goes awry,
the shaping lasts stay inside the shoe until
the laces are threaded through the eyelets.
And what if still no Hanwag shoe fits despite
the effort and the range of choice? Then opt
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HERREN
THE TRAIL SPEAKS
The final production lasts in all sizes are
made of plastic.
for the Real Custom Made shoe. Ever since
2011 it has been possible to have your foot
measured in a 3D light-beam foot scanner
at participating Globetrotter stores – such as
Munich – to get your very own personal
lasts. Several Hanwag models can then be
made from those prototype lasts. Real Custom Made is mainly aimed at people with
very individual feet, but also for those who
want to treat themselves to the luxury of an
exclusive, perfectly fitting hiking boot.
From now on, there should be a quick answer to the question of where the shoe
pinches. Thanks to Hanwag – nowhere! <<
Find the full Hanwag product range
on Globetrotter’s brand world at
www.globetrotter.de/marken/hanwag
>>
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136
<< DREAMTRIP >>
137
THE
OT H E R
DAY AT T H E
ARCTIC CIRCLE
Text:
Georg Rathfelder
Photos:
Michael Neumann
Who
Auf
came
diese
upIdee
withmuss
this crazy
man erstmal
idea? Driving
kommen.
as far
north
Ende Mai
as possible
soweit Richtung
at the end
Nordnorwegen
of May where fahren,
the sun
bis 24
shines
Stunden
24 hours
die Sonne
a day to
scheint.
then ski
Um
down
dann,
a um
Mitternacht,
mountain
auf Ski von
at midnight.
einem Berg fahren.
138
139
<< DREAMTRIP >>
A
photo is to
blame. Max, Julian and me saw it in a photo
book about skiing all twelve months of the
year, where to go and how to get there. Inside there was a picture from Norway. You
see a skier jumping across a cornice into the
sun set complete with date and time: midnight 3 June. And although the explanation
might be mundane – sure, at the end of May
the sun shines for 24 hours in northern Norway – we could not help thinking about going skiing at midnight without a torch.
That was followed by a classic feasibility
study. Any holiday left? Yes. Expedition
clause included in the relationship? Need to
check! Motivation? Endless. High five!
As we wanted to make sure that the sun really did shine for us, we focused on a threeweek time frame to get one over on possible
bad weather. However, that made a flight up
north a) too expensive because there were
no early bird sales and b) impossible to plan
because Norwegian domestic flights are often booked out a long time in advance so
you cannot even hope to get a stand-by seat.
So it's off we go by car. Which one? As we
do not own a car which is reliable enough
to even get us across the Danube to Munich,
we put our idea of a report on the polar circle to BMW. And indeed, they say yes.
There is one question left, which BMW? Just
as we usually think about which aluminium
alloy is the most stable one for our tent
We take along: 3x skis,
3x pairs of hiking shoes,
3x swimming shorts,
1x long board, 1x SUP and
1x BMW xDrive.
the A9 and A7 without a single traffic jam.
The traffic rolls even smoothly through the
Elbe tunnel. The GPS device announces a
delay of 14 minutes for the whole stretch.
Get a load of that! We spend that time studying the ski tour guide and counting windmills. And with driving, of course, but the
car helps a lot. We do not only see the current speed in the head-up display but also
the exact speed limit captured by a road sign
identification system. The cruise control is
set at 140 kilometres per hour, it slows down
and speeds up automatically when other
cars cross our path. And if we had had a
traffic jam, the X1 would have even helped
steering the wheel.
COASTLINE VS BEELINE
poles, and which stove will melt a litre of
snow the quickest when temperatures are
below zero, we look at the car as part of the
perfect equipment.
MIDSUMMER, HERE WE COME
The requirement profile is as follows: not
too big, low consumption and a clever four
wheel drive system for any eventualities – in
Norway, not all roads are tarred, there can
be snow in summer and the mountain roads
with their many turns allow us to have lots
of fun driving. Maybe we can add a few assistance systems to make the journey safer
and more comfortable? In the end, we go for
a BMW X1 with xDrive four-wheel drive. As
soon as we put the weather forecast and our
karma in line, we reserve the car. We decide
Once we arrive in Hirtshals, we roll onto the
Fjord Line ferry and set sail for Bergen at 7
pm. As we saved some money skipping three
flights, we invested in an upgrade on the
ferry. Instead of a dorm, we chose the suite
with a canopy bed, three pillows of varying
degrees of softness and bay-window view.
De luxe. It is the only night on our trip that
we actually spend in a real bed.
We reach Bergen the next day on time at 1
pm having had a good sleep in. The sun is
shining, there is no cloud in sight. And the
weather forecast tells us that nothing is going to change for the next week. Can anybody give us a pinch please?
According to the plan scrawled on the beer
mat, the first day’s destination on our way
towards the polar circle is the Trollstigen
area. A high plateau with great ski touring
possibilities where a fantastic mountain-pass
road leads down to the sea. Unfortunately,
when we did our sums, we did not take into
account the coastline of Norway. The beeline is only around 250 kilometres, but the
length of the roads winding up and down
the fjords adds up to more than twice that
distance.
So we stop our day trip at 11 pm in Geirangerfjord. High above the town of the same
name we put our camping mats on a rock
and enjoy the fantastic view to the surrounding mountains. “Down” here in southern Norway, there are at least two, three
hours of “dawn and dusk” around midnight
that we should make use of. Good night!
The wild road-trip continues. The Queen
Victoria is moored up in the Geirangerfjord
and the 2000 passangers are just about to
to start on the 26th of May, and we head off
a bit disillusioned. Although we had an idea
how far away it is, nobody actually calculated the exact distance. The GPS tells us. Between us and Anga, the most southerly place
in Norway, where in four days time the sun
will begin to shine for 24 hours, there is a
distance of exactly 2,970 kilometres. Oops!
And that is the quickest route via Sweden.
As we also want to see a bit of southern Norway too, we will be driving even more kilometres. The ferry “eases” the total driving a
little – it will bring us from the northern tip
of Denmark all the way to Bergen, right into
the middle of the world’s famous fjords. So
we will save around 700 kilometres while
we are asleep.
The drive to Hirtshals goes without any
problems. We cross the Republic mainly on
>>
Mini cruise on the Fjord Line.
Yes, mum, I’m fine.
Seen and liked: skiing
in the midnight sun.
That’s what we want!
We need to cross the water to get to our destination.
Max makes the wheels smoke.
140
<< DREAMTRIP >>
set foot on terra firma. We grab a quick cappuccino from a café by the road and keep
going towards Valldal.
SNOW AS HARD A ROCKS
Before we reach Trollstigen, we have an appointment with Knut. Five years ago, Knut
built a hotel directly at a turn in the river
Valldalselva. The hotel is special because
you hardly see it. Knut has so cleverly placed
futuristic box-like housing in the forest with
glass frontages right to the ground that you
first need to go looking for them. The Hotel,
called Juvet, was already a backdrop for the
Hollywood blockbuster “Ex Machina”. So it
is quite popular amongst the world's hotel
fans. For that reason, Knut does not have
good news about our request to sleep the
night which we had secretly hoped for. They
are booked out until the end of October but
we should feel free to put our names on the
waiting list for 2017. He lifts our spirits
when he tells us the mountain pass at the
Trollstigen had opened at 1 pm that very
day – after a six-month winter break. When
we entered the valley in the morning, Åndalsnes, the little town behind Trollstigen,
was still crossed out on signs. We imagined
the worst. A closed pass would have meant
a detour of three hours on the way up north.
According to Knut, they had been waiting
until today for an avalanche to come down
a snow-covered hill above the road. There
had been no snow on the road for the last
four weeks. He did not know what made the
officials decide to open it up although the
avalanche had still not come down.
We are unreservedly happy and invest the
time saved in a little ski tour up on the pass.
From a parking bay, we go up the Finnan at
an altitude of 1,786 metres travelling on a
wonderful thick old blanket of snow. And
then back down. Unfortunately, we end up
on the east side and conditions quickly
change after midnight from beautifully soft
slushy snow to rock hard frozen ice which
almost knocks out the fillings in our teeth.
But the downhill skiing becomes fun again
later. Down the Trollstigen. And back up
again. And down. With xDrive. For the picture. Everybody wants to be behind the
wheel, nobody wants to be behind the camera. We need to draw straws.
Our goal for the second night of sleep in
Norway is the »Tverrfjellhytta«, a fancy cube
with a view at the Dovrefjell National Park,
created by the award-winning architects at
Snøhetta. The hut is not meant to be slept
in but we guess that it should be okay to
<< DREAMTRIP >>
have a break there for several hours for time
lapse photography. When we reach the place
after a 20 minute walk from the parking
area at 2 am, we find the door locked. Must
still be the winter break. Instead of a night
in the shade and without wind, we revert to
the vagabond option and sleep under the
open sky.
Day 3 in Norway goes along the lines of
“eating up the kilometres”. 750 kilometres
of roadways and ferry crossings lie between
Enga, where we just arrived in the early
hours, and Dovrefjell. Enough time for a
good audio book and a few “Pølser” – sausages you get at every petrol station.
Unfortunately, our plan comes to an >>
>>
Sit still in awe:
the Juvet Hotel.
On our way up north, we are not only
excited about nature, but also
impressed about Scandinavia’s new
architecture.
A short hike at
Geiranger, lots of fun
driving at Trollstigen,
beautiful views in
Dovrefjell, good
skiing and kayaking
at Helgeland.
141
142
<< DREAMTRIP >>
Cheers to the sea kayak tour.
Across the high plateau and into the snow.
Sunsets which last hours.
Salt water, here we come!
Objects in the display are closer than they appear.
Sunshine 24/7 increases the
secretion of serotonin so we do not
need more than four hours sleep.
end a few kilometres before Enga because
the ferry is only running twice a day at the
moment – we would have not even reached
the third crossing anyway. As the weather is
as great as it was down south – we have not
see a cloud for the last 36 hours – it is no big
deal to find another dream spot for the
night. We fall asleep on a granite peak overlooking the ragged island of Traena.
On the next morning, we can catch ferry no.
1 but no. 2 which would bring us across the
polar circle turns out to be not yet running
on the summer schedule. Our journey continues at 2 pm. Time for another nap and to
take turns on a stand-up board in the bay.
The water is wonderfully clear and a turquoise colour at some spots. Add the blue
sky and temperatures of 23 degrees and the
Caribbean illusion is just perfect. I know, we
already had to give ourselves a nip once but
– ouch! – better make sure we're not dreaming…
The start of the photographic trip.
Bahamas? Norway!
The permanent sunshine and the constant
brightness has totally messed up our sleeping rhythm. We do not follow the clock any­
more, but as fancy takes us. We are also less
tired because of our increased levels of serotonin. Often we only need a power nap to
charge our batteries. All that adds up to 20
hours of activity per day which, of course,
increases what we get out of the tours. Before we set off on a final skiing tour where
we kind of want to imitate the Lyngen picture in the photo book for our private photo
book, we add another sea kayak tour. We
take down the roof box at the local active
tour operator and put three sea kayaks up
top. We want to go to the archipelago behind Bolga Island. We leave the campground
in Åmnøya at 8 pm. We paddle towards the
low-lying sun which makes the 10 kilometre
stretch of open water look surreal. Without
immediate landmarks for the eye to fix on to, and
unable to estimate our speed, it feels as if our kayaks are floating through a sea of thick orange juice,
attracted by the midsummer son.
ROBINSON FOR A NIGHT
At around 10 pm, we step on an island not much
bigger than 200 square metres. Its highest point is
ten metres above the water. Our home for the next
twelve hours. We quickly set up the tent which is
to provide us with shade while we are sleeping, and
then we roam around the little isle. There is enough
time because we forgot the lighter in the heat of the
packing moment and so we will have have to eat
our fish cakes sushi style. At around 1.30 am, the
sun “sets” only to rise at exactly 1.34 am. We have
got used to sleeping in daylight and do not even put
on our sleep masks. The 20 centimetre thick layer
of moss underneath our camping mats is a dream
Helgeland at its best.
and we sleep dead to the world.
After we return to the beach of Åmnøya and have
our postponed dinner, we get ready for the summit attempt. Tonight is the night for our midsummer ski picture. Luckily we managed to see from
yesterday’s island which summit gets all the sun
at night. There is more snow on the higher peaks
in the second row, but their exposure to the sun
is not right. So we therefore simply take the
mountain behind the beach. We hope to have
enough snow for a photo shoot in the depression
near the peak.
We ascend slowly across a formation of granitic
on the other side of the island. When we reach
the top, the GPS device says we are up at a height
of 800 metres. Now we can assess the snow situation in the little dip in the summit plateau. There
is not a lot of snow but enough for our mission.
And so everybody does what led us here so far
north: the poser turn in front of the camera. >>
144
<< DREAMTRIP >>
:
F TOUR D DIE
U
A
R
E
N
OB
AB OKTEN OUTDOOR- UHRES
DIE BEST ERFILME DES JA
U
ABENTE
CHERN!
I
S
S
T
E
ICK
JETZT T
WELTBESTEN KLETTERFILME IN FULL-HD
präsentiert von
Been there, done that!
Julian on the final
midsummer-night’s ski trip.
DIE REEL ROCK 11 - AB 25.09. WIEDER AUF TOUR
Unfortunately, the sun disappears behind a
fog bank on the horizon before we have perfected our turns. But that is complaining on
a high comfort level.
So we climb back to the peak and bivouac.
The “night” could not be more beautiful.
From our sleeping bags, we look down at
several islands and the Svartisen glacier. In
the far distance, ships are passing by. There
is no sound of civilisation. Only a lonely
cuckoo is cuckooing. When we make a
noise, it replies. For minutes on end. So we
stop making a noise. Until Max starts snoring. Cuckoo, cuckoo… The bird seems not
be able to handle the brightness. But there
comes a point at which my tiredness gets the
better of the constant twittering. When we
go back downhill in the morning, we hear
FESSELNDE CLIMBING-FILMACTION MIT DEN INTERNATIONALEN
KLETTERGRÖSSEN AUF DER NOCH GRÖSSEREN LEINWAND
the bird again. It is now “cuckooing” a barking dog on a nearby farm. It seems to have
as much persistence as Max.
And the journey back? It was good too, but
this is another story.
<<
>>
25.09.
26.09.
27.09.
28.09.
29.09.
30.09.
01.10.
02.10.
09.10.
10.10.
12.10.
13.10.
14.10.
Find the film about this dream trip on
www.globetrotter-magazin.de/polarkreis.
BETTER WITH XDRIVE
Thomas Giuliani, corporate head of drive and modular systems at BMW in Munich
talks about the advantages and disadvantages of the BMW xDrive system.
rain as we are unfortunately experiencing
move often, xDrive provides additional
safety by enhancing driving stability.
Is the investment worthwhile, given
the number of snowy days is limited in
our latitude?
I would actually recommend it to
everybody. The advantages in typical
wintry conditions and on mountain passes
are well known, but difficult driving
conditions are not limited to the
mountainous areas. When there is heavy
But xDrive also increases fuel consumption, doesn’t it?
The additional drive system increases fuel
consumption by up to 0.5 litres per 100
kilometres. Consumption is generally
decreasing steadily however, due to the
increasing electrification as well as the
optimisation of weight and a car's
operating systems.
Should I do a driver training course to
get full advantage of xDrive?
You can use xDrive and immediately enjoy
the advantages of all wheel drive as the
system works automatically. Nevertheless,
I still recommend a safety training course.
They do not only make sense, they are also
a lot of fun.
You have been developing xDrive for
30 years – what does the future hold?
The first thing is simply a matter of feel:
Compared to the past, you do not notice
such a system nowadays. xDrive is just
“there” when a situation arises and you
need it. Second, further optimisation of
fuel consumption with electrification is
very important. And the third factor is
linking xDrive in with all the new
developments. One example is the four
wheel drive system for the BMW i8 which
features an electric drive motor for the
front wheels instead of a mechanical
system. A lot is happening, so design
engineering remains exciting for us.
15.10.
16.10.
17.10.
18.10.
19.10.
20.10.
21.10.
22.10.
23.10.
24.10.
25.10.
26.10.
31.10.
05.11. ESSEN
FRANKFURT
06.11. BENSHEIM
FREIBURG
KAISERSLAUTERN
07.11. HEILBRONN
AUGSBURG
08.11. ULM
MÜNCHEN
09.11. BISCHOFSWIESEN
MANNHIEM
11.11. LAPPERSDORF/
KARETH
BIELEFELD
LÜNEBURG
12.11. DRESDEN
BREMEN
13.11. LEIPZIG
SSIGTES T
Ä
M
R
E
HAMBURG
14.11.
KE
VD -PABERLIN
TICKET-D16.11.
BERLIN
HAMBURG
ard Inhaber card
rC
e
tt
o
tr
e
b
für Glo
19.11.
SCHEIDEGG
WETZLAR
globetrotter
.eof t.eu /de/
w
w
w
r:
te
un
SIEGEN
20.11. WÜRZBURG
nur Online
TICKETS
AUGUST
BEI GLOBETROTTER,
ANDEREN
KARTENAB
IN DEN
GLOBETROTTER
FILIALEN FÜR FOLGENDE
EVENTS:VORVERKAUFSSTELLEN
UND ONLINE UNTER WWW.REEL-ROCK.EU
BERLIN
URANIA / UNI DER KÜNSTE
TICKETS:
Interview: Sissi Pärsch
Mr Giuliani, how expensive is the xDrive?
The surcharge depends on the car and is
about 2,000 to 3,400 euros.
KÖLN
WIESBADEN
DORTMUND
KASSEL
ERFURT
JENA
DARMSTADT
STUTTGART
STEPHANSKIRCHEN
GILCHING
WALDKRAIBURG
NÜRNBERG
BAYREUTH
HAMBURG
CINEMAXX DAMMTOR
13 E VVK | 15 E ABENDKASSE
DRESDEN
RUNDKINO
15./16.10. | 16:00 Uhr
07.– 09.11. | 20:00 Uhr
28.– 30.11. | 20:00 Uhr
ERMÄSSIGT
E (GLOBETROTTERCARD-INHABER,
20:0011Uhr
08.12. | 20:00 Uhr
12./13.12. | 20:00 Uhr
ALPENVEREINSKLETTERHALLENMITGLIEDER)
*
05.02.2017
| 20:00 Uhr UND06.02.2017
| 20:00 Uhr
* ZZGL. SYSTEMGEBÜHREN
07.02.2017 | 20:00 Uhr
VVK 15 EUR | Abendkasse
17 EUR
In Zusammenarbeit
mit:
STUTTGART
LIEDERHALLE STUTTGART
FRANKFURT
UNIVERSITÄT FRANKFURT
BONN
BRÜCKENFORUM
& TRAILER
ETS18.12.
| 16:00 Uhr
CK
TIUhr
MINFO| S,
03./04.12. | 16:00
Uhr RAM
17./18.12.
16:00
PROG
20:00 Uhr
20:00 Uhr
04.02.2017 | 20:00 Uhr
+ 18.12. | 12:00 Uhr
WWW.REEL-ROCK
.EU
20:00 Uhr
ALLE INFOS ZUM PROGRAMM UND MEHR
TERMINE AUF
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Eine Präsentation
von
präsentiert von:
David Lama, Photo: © Martin Hanslmayr/Red Bull
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