european spas architecture cultural heritage local traditions health
Transcription
european spas architecture cultural heritage local traditions health
THERMAE EUROPAE Project of European Union 2/2008 Karlovy Vary - Czech Republic Piešťany - Slovakia Velingrad - Bulgaria Acqui Terme - Italy Tento projekt je spolufinancován z prostředků Evropské unie v rámci programu Kultura 2000. Tento tříletý projekt začal 1. října 2006 a bude ukončen 30. září 2009. This project is co-financed by the European Union as a part of the Culture 2000 program. This three-year project began on 1st October 2006 and will end on 30th September 2009. Varberg - Sweden EUROPEAN SPAS ARCHITECTURE CULTURAL HERITAGE LOCAL TRADITIONS HEALTH & WELLNESS Thermae Europae PROJECT PROMOTER City of Karlovy Vary – the biggest spa city in the Czech Republic CO-ORGANISERS Varberg Municipality The Agency for Regional Development – City of Velingrad City of Piešťany Comune di Acqui Terme Eurotec Consulting S.p.r.l. ASSOCIATED PARTNERS Thermes de Spa, Bath and North East Somerset, City of Baden Baden Museo Civico Archeologico delle Acque di Chianciano Terme, Bagni di Lucca Terme, Budapest Spas and Thermalwaters, Association Nationale des Maires de Communes Thermales, Association Thermauvergne, Association Route des Villes d’Eaux du Massif Central, Municipio co Concelho de Chaves, Municipality of Kyustendil, Salsomaggiore Terme. 1 Thermae Europae BAGNI DI LUCCA 80 Thermae Europae BAGNI DI LUCCA Orrido di Botri and the Pass of Cocciglia.At Ponte a Gaio, where the golden Eagle nests in a natural reservation, dur- Nestled amid the Appenine Mountains, at the confluence of ing the summer season qualified guides lead excursions the river Serchio and the Lima Stream (after which the val- to the Orrido di Botri, a valley very narrow and sunken, leys are named), Bagni di Lucca, gives the impression of be- created by the erosion of the cold waters of the Rio Pelago ing in an Alpine setting in spite of its only 152 meters above which for hundred of thousands of years, have eroded the sea level. It is considered a true oasis of peace and serenity, calcareous rocks of the Appennines, forming cliffs ad high decentralized from the traffic that passes nearby Lucca (27 ad 200meters and with little distance between them. kms) and Versilia (48 kms). All these characteristics along with the cordiality of its inhabitants and the mild climate make this an ideal destination for both tourists and visitors. The whole territory is quite rich in mushrooms and uncommon botanical species, and is inhabited by a varied fauna that includes wild boars, deer, wolves, foxes, hawks, eagles and squirrel. Hiking lovers can walk for hours on end over terraines where no trace of man is visible. If we add to all this the mildness of the climate, never too warm in summer or too cold in winter, and the kindness of the local folk, we might end in believing that the definition given by the famed anatomist Falloppio in 1556, “Paradise on earth” is not too far from reality. landscape, an area rich of history just a short distance from renowned cities of ert, the Terme Bagni di Lucca holds a special place in the panorama of Italian thermal baths, thanks to its numerous traditional thermal cures and the superior quality of its wellbeing treatments. It is ideal vacation spot for wellbeing, culture and relaxation. Probably known since Roman times, the thermal springs of Bagni di Lucca became popular in the 11th century during the period of the countess Matilde di Canossa, up until becoming one of the major thermal spas in Europe. It was an élite of European tourism before the littoral invasion made this part of Lucchesia Bagni di Lucca - Italy Immersed in the unique glow of the enchanting Tuscan A PARADISE FOR ITS HISTORY, ART AND ARCHITECTURE forgotten. The English called Bagni di Lucca “The Switzerland We must not however forget that, beside the valley floor, of Tuscany” and it was the Anglo-Saxons themselves who were there are 21 mountain villages of high-medieval origin, the first to discover this land and the therapeutic properties of scattered over a territory that can be considered the largest its water, loving it so as to make it hteir homeland away from mountain municipality in Italy. All these villages are rich home. It was a welcomed meeting place for the nobility and dip- in history, architecture, cultural and peasant traditions lomats of all Europe, esteemed by the court of Lucca and the quite different among themselves, surrounded by a luxu- Grand Duchy of Tuscany. It became the destination of the most riant environment which is quite varied in its botanical, distinguished guests, among which, the poets Byron, Shelley, mycological and zoological aspects. A PARADISE FOR NATURE AND SPORT The Lima Stream is ideal for fishing. Its natural pools of limpid waters are crowded during the hot summer days with sunbathers and swimmers. Its rapids attract rafters and canoeists. There are excursions with mountain-bike, trekking and horseback riding on confortable and signaled paths and trails. The top of Pratofioritois ideal for paragliding. For those who are looking for adventure, there are the canyon of 81 Thermae Europae Lever, Giusti, Monti, Carducci, Pascoli, Montale; writers like The Thermal Spa at Bagni di Lucca is part of the thermal Dumas,, musicians like Strauss, Listz, Paganini, Mascagni; complex of Jean Varraud and Casa Boccella, which offers politicians and regents like Paolina Buonaparte, Queen Mar- classical thermal cures and treatments, and the Centro gherita, D‘Azeglio, Galeazzo Ciano; religious like Saint Luigi Ouida, which offers treatments and programs specifically Gonzaga, Saint Gemma Galgani, and Popes Sisto IV and Sisto geared toward thermal wellbeing. V. Testimony of thes prestigious tradition in the 18th century where the Spa was well known through out the world, can still be found today along the valley.There is the Protestant Cemetary, the Anglican Church, the Neo-Classic Temple and Villa Demidoff, the Casinò, first in Europe, the Circolo dei Forestieri, and numerous villas immersed in the green of their parks. There are also the characteris feudal and medieval structures of the hamlets of the mountains, rich in history, traditions, legends and dialects, some with Romanesque parish churches. A PARADISE FOR YOUR HEALTH The Thermal Establishment today is made up of two interconnecting buildings. The top one, from which you have access to the whole complex, is the result of the restoration work on the old private house « Casa Boccella ».The original part is at the bottom of a short slope. This is the old Bagno Caldo di Corsena and its foundations date from 12C. During the various centuries structural and functional changes were made. Elisa Baciocchi, in 1808, wanted to completely renew the establishment and entrusted the architect Carlo Lazzarini with the projet, who gave the complex its present look. On the first floor is the hall which was used as a meeting place and Casino until 1839, when the Casino at Ponte a Serraglio was opened. Today in the Hall traces of the old decorations which made the place exclusive and refined are still visible. Here, from what people say, the first roulette in Europa was spun. the Grotta Paoline, lend the spa its unique character, the latter taking its name from Napoleon‘s sister, a frequent visitor of the baths. The temperatures range from 40-45°c and are ideal for skin cures, arthropathy, relaxation and cleansing. Thanks to the kind of thermal waters at Jean Varraud and Casa Boccella, the two centers are at the avant-garde of treating O.R.L. in adults and children, acne, rhemautism, the vascular system and gynecological pathologies, obes- A wide set of steps leads up to the square towards what was ity and metabolic disorders as well as pathologies tretaed once the residence of the Grand-Duke of Tuscany, then the with idropinic treatment. Grand Hotel delle Terme, of which only the facade still remains. The nearby small church, is named after S. Martino. A PARADISE FOR YOUR HEALTH AND WELLNESS The very famouns and ancient streams of Bagni di Lucca 82 The natural vapors of two grottes, tha Grotta Grande and The center offers programs specifically designed for wellbeing and relaxation that tono and cleans the entire body and restore a brillant sheen to your skin. Mud baths, massages and other treatments use thermal wather based oils and creams, harmonious blends that make you feel new. are fed with sulfuric-bicarbonate-calcium rich waters with To improve the range of rèmise en forme treatments, the an awesome curative and regenerating power. They reach Terme Bagni di Lucca has used the beneficial properties 54°c at the principal stream called „Doccione“. of its waters to create a thermal cosmetic line ad hoc. Thermae Europae HISTORY AND FAMOUS VISITORS (BAGNI DI LUCCA TERME) Among the politicians and men of arms: The Prince of Metternich (“I can liken this place to Styria, but embellished by Italian vegetation”), Admiral Radetzky, the Napoleon family, Massimo D’Azeglio. The 1800s were the period of highest splendor. In 1808 Elisa Baciocchi, wanted to completely renew the thermal estalishment and entrusted the architect Carlo Lazzarini with the project, who gave the complex its present look. On the first floor is the hall which was used as a meeting place and Casino, sanctioning it as the oldest Casino in Europe, this Recalling the historical characteristics of the architecture of these until 1839 when the Casino at Ponte a Serraglio was opened. Tuscan spa’s, every wellness room has been dedicated to a fa- Today in the Hall traces of the old decorations which made mous personality that passed through Terme Bagni di Lucca: the place exclusive and refined are still visible. Here, from what people say, the first roulette in Europa was spun. George Gordon Noel Byron Christian Johann Heinrich Heine Eleonora Gonzaga Franz List Percy Bysse Shelley Giacomo Antonio Domenico Michele Secondo Maria Puccini Michel Eyquem de Montaigne Giuseppina Buonaparte Bagni di Lucca - Italy Johann Strauss. The Stables and the Royal Villa were erected in 1811, while 1825 saw the building of the Demidoff Hospital and 1837 of the Royal Casino, and in 1845 the English Curch and the Protestant cemetery were built, emphasizing the high cultural and international openness of the place, even if located on the territory of very catholic Lucca. Today, Bagni di lucca fervent cultural center, frequented by famous personalities, since the XII century, represents a fervent cultural center in the panorama of Italian spas where you can still breathe wellness and history. THE WELLNESS CENTER OUIDA It take’s its name from the author Louise de la Rameé author of more than 40 romances, born in 1839 in England from English father and French mother. The pen-name “ouida” comes from the sound that children made trying to pronounce her name Louse. 83 Thermae Europae ON THE ROAD TO BAGNI DI LUCCA The dimensions of the bridge are: length 93,10 m., main arch 18,50 m. and width of the carriageway 2,90 m. At first sight, PONTE DEL DIAVOLO If travelling you come across the incredible and beautiful Ponte della Maddalena, better known by the name of Ponte del Diavolo, unique for its bold structure and its resistance to time and the forceful river floods. The bridge was probably built in 1101 by Matilde di Ca- if a favourable light strikes the arch and it reflects in the water, it looks like a giant halo, into which the river seems to mysteriously disappear. Ponte del Diavolocan, therefore, be considered a triumphal entry arch to Bagni di Lucca. VILLA FIORI nossa to facilitate the people who wanted to cross the Ser- Villa Fiori is named after Baron Fiori, who was the owner chio river from the right to the left bank in order to get in the first half of the 19C. to the Terme of Bagno in Corsena (now called Bagni di Lucca). At the time there was no road connecting Lucca HOTEL DE RUSSIE to Garfagnana as the current Statale del Brennero, built in This building, constructed in 1838, was once the pres- 17C, didn’t exist. tigious Hotel de Russie, where in 1904-1905 the English The origin of its name, Ponte della Maddalena, derives from the fact that, in 1526, an oratory was built in which a splendid life-size image of the Maddalena with long hair was worshipped. The painting is a work from the Della Robbia school, and today can be seen in the Church of S. Jacopo in Borgo a Mozzano. The more popular name, Ponte del Diavolo, comes from the legend of Saint Julian, the Hospitaller, who lived in the 6C. Saint Julian is the protector of travellers and, according to the legend asked the Devil’s help to finish the construction of the bridge, promising him, in exchange, the soul of whoever crossed the bridge first. Saint Julian arranged for a dog to be the first. 84 the superb arch resembles a huge aerial opening. However, writer Louise de La Ramée (1839-1908), better known as Ouida, to which an area in the spa in Bagni di Lucca is entitled, has stayed and who then requested to be buried in the English Cemetery of Bagni di Lucca. CASINO Thermae Europae Casinò Reale (Royal Casino) built in 1837 by Carlo Ludovico the architect Carlo Lazzarini with the projet, who gave the di Borbone. The Duke had entrusted the French Adrien Ma- complex its present look. On the first floor is the hall which this and Edouard Ginnestet with the management of gam- was used as a meeting place and Casino until 1839, when the bling. In the halls del pavone (peacock) and della lira (lyre), Casino at Ponte a Serraglio was opened. but, above all, in the ballroom with its decorated walls of gilded Bourbon lilies on a blue background, representing the Florentine Iris, splendid chandeliers, furnishings of wich today unfortunately very few remain, all the finest European Today in the Hall traces of the old decorations which made the place exclusive and refined are still visible. Here, from what people say, the first roulette in Europa was spun. aristocracy gambled fortunes at biribisso ( a game of chance A wide set of steps leads up to the square towards what using numbered counters), ancestor to the present-day rou- was once the residence of the Grand-Duke of Tuscany, lette, faraone (faro), reale, the old gambling games, many of then the Grand Hotel delle Terme, of which only the fa- which were invented right here in Bagni di Lucca. Poetry cade still remains. recitations, concerts by prestigious musicians such as Liszt and memorable balls took place in the halls of the Casino, TEATRO ACCADEMICO but also disputes and arguments, pretexts for duels between gentlemen and adventurers. In Bagni di Lucca gambling was in existence in the 15C and its profits contributed towards the finances for the management of the Spa. OSPEDALE DEMIDOFF Ospedale Demidoff (Demidoff Hospital with its annexed Neoclassical Cappella (Chapel), the work of the architect Giacomo Marraccini from Lucca. in 1828 on the initiative of the Russian Prince Nicolaj Demidoff who wanted to reward the village for the relief gained from his thermal water treatment. His son Anatolj finished the work and had a small masonry bridge built to connect the Hospital to the Chapel. A plaque was erected in his memory. The Teatro Accademico (Academic Theatre) built in 1790 and completely renovated in 1986. This theatre was once visited by famous theatrical Companies, (Giacomo Puccini played there when he was young) and today hosts important Bagni di Lucca - Italy The Hospital, intended for the poor, and the Chapel were built theatrical Seasons and numerous other cultural events. CIRCOLO DEI FORESTIERI THE SPA The Stabilimento Termale named after “ Jean Varraud ” a French industrialist who settled in Bagni di Lucca at the beginning of the 20C and later donated much of his wealth to the Spa. The Thermal Establishment today is made up of two interconnecting buildings. The top one, from which you have access to the whole complex, is the result of the restoration work on the old private house « Casa Boccella ». This is the old Bagno Caldo di Corsena and its foundations date from 12C. During the various centuries structural and functional changes were made. Elisa Baciocchi, in 1808, wanted to completely renew the estalishment and entrusted The Circolo dei Forestieri (Foreigners’ Club) built in 1924 over a preexisting 19C building, it was the meeting place of the numerous summer holiday-makers. Here people gambled and roulette was played up to 1936. Today the upper floor is used for exhibitions, meeting, etc.; the ground floor has been turned into an exclusive restaurant. 85 Thermae Europae CHIESA INGLESE The Chiesa Inglese (English Church) was built in 1840, (authorised by Carlo Lodovico di Borbone) on the initiative of Henry and Elisabeth Stisted, an English couple who had settled in Bagni di Lucca and had fallen in love with the place so much that they wanted many other fellowcountrymen to come there. The neo-Gothic Anglican church has the shape of a palace as Carlo Lodovico didn’t want it to look like a real church. It was designed and built by the architect G. Pardini. CIMITERO INGLESE In 1842 the Stisteds also opened the Cimitero Inglese, which is located on the other bank of the river along the Statale del Brennero. Bean, a British consul in Leghorn who added also the two 6-sided towers, and surrounded by large, romantic gardens, including also an artificial grotto. PONTE DELLE CATENE The Ponte delle Catene (Chain Bridge - 1840) in Fornoli. Recently restored, A very notable architectural monument recently included in the list of the 100 European monuments to safeguard. In 1836 the ancient bridge, built at the beginning if the 14th century by Castruccio Castracani, collapsed after a flood of the Lima river. The Prince of Lucca Carlo Lodovico di Borbone, commissioned the architect Lorenzo Nottilini to build a new one. The new bridge is ingenious and unique. It has to austere but harmonious Neo-Classical arches in “Pietra Serena” and massive suspension chains anchored VILLA ADA to stone blocks. Villa Ada, a previous Renaissance mansion of the local De Ponte delle Catene can be considered a prototype of the Nobili family, renovated in the 19th century by Sir Mac modern and daring suspension bridge. PONTE DELLE CATENE 86 Thermae Europae THE CAVES These two geothermal caves experience temperatures that fluctuate between 40 and 47 °C. The smaller and more striking of the two, known as Grotta Paolina (named after Napoleon’s sister, Pauline), consists of two chambers. They are fed by separate water sources with differing temperatures that vary according to depth, so the water is hotter at the trunk level of the body than at the feet. early 1920s works were undertaken to cover the walls with the white majolica tiles which gave them the form they have had until the present day. NOW. Owing to the caves’ historical value and their precise form, restoration work has only involved the use of building materials and lighting, without modifying how the space is perceived as a whole. The caves’ distinguishing features and elements that have remained undamaged over time, such as the marble benches, have all been preserved. Typical local materials and components used elsewhere in the spa (Carrara, Botticino and Bardiglio marble) have been used to cover the walls and vaulted ceilings. The lighting is the only feature that is deliberately modern: small spotlights embedded in the ground enhance the winding effect of the walls, and accompany visitors all the way through to the thermal spring. Meanwhile, in the first The calcium-bicarbonate-sulphate springs in the caves are believed to have healing properties for rheumatic or part of the cave, light is emitted from inside cast iron vases mounted on marble columns. stress-related disorders. One folk legend would have it that the thermal activity in the area is caused by a volcano situated under the village of Bagni Caldi and nearby Ponte a Serraglio. Bagni di Lucca - Italy A LITTLE HISTORY. It would appear that the thermal caves in Bagni di Lucca were already known and used back in Roman times, and that they were an attractive and distinguishing feature of the Jean Varraud spa, which over the centuries has been visited by famous people looking to regain their health and receive treatment. We know that the caves were restored by Matilda of Canossa in the 11th century and that they underwent further alterations in the 16th century. In the 87 Thermae Europae IMPORTANT EVENTS Fair of Saint Michael Mostre Delle Antiche Camelie Della Lucchesia Street market which is part of the celebrations of September Held over three weekends during March, this well estab- in Lucca. In Piazza San Michele lished show of Camelias is centred around the village and villas of Pieve di Compito and San Andrea di Compito, a short distance from Lucca. There is a main exhibition, special openings of villas and their gardens, plants for sale, (usually) a tea exhibition and associated displays. Lucca September‘ As Pisa is in June, so Lucca is in September - a place taken back in time with the middle-ages returned and the atmosphere one of festivity. There are special concerts, markets, shows, exhibitions and processions, with the undoubted highlight being the Luminaria di Santa Croce on the night of the 13th. The centre of Lucca is lit by torch and candlelight Traditional Market held in Piazza Anfiteatro, from 21st to 28th April 2008 ca Lucca Comics and Games Around October, since 1966 Lucca has been the undisputed city of the Comic and year after year it has hosted a unique event and the most important of Italy. Over 400 exhibitors from around the world meet in the historical centre and over 90,000 spectators flock to the streets of the centre dressed up as their favourite comic heroes.Lucca Comics & Games has become a huge cultural event. alone and there is an enormous procession, largely in period Halloween festival- Borgo a Mozzano costume, with music, the famous flag-juggling, and the re- Great event in the Town of the famous „Devil‘s Bridge“. turn of Lucchesi from the world over. The procession starts at the church of San Frediano (at 8.00 PM) and proceeds to the cathedral of San Martino to celebrate the Volto Santo. 88 Flower Fair of Saint Zita Vinaria Wine Festival, Late August/Early September Held in the small town of Montecarlo near Lucca, this annual wine fair/festival is becoming bigger each year. Local Illuminated procession of the Holy Cross growers and winemakers present their wines with abundant Procession along the streets of the Historical centre to cel- opportunities for tasting. Also plenty of other local produce ebrate the Holy Face and wares, exhibitions and presentations. Thermae Europae Tuscany is well-know for its good food, and Lucca and its surroundings maintains the fame of how to cook a meal for a king using ingredients for the poor, and the tradition remains. The ingredients for the filling are: a bunch of swiss chard cooked in butter, a pinch of Italian parsley, 200 gr. of bread soaked in milk, cinnamon, pepper, nutmeg, liqueur, parmesan and romano cheese, 3 eggs, a bit of sugar, pinenuts and raisins. Prepare the pastry by making a ‚vulcano‘ with the flour on the pastry-board, working it well with the other in- Through out the years, the most famous and typical dishes, gredients. After working the dough, leave it to rest. After it were prepared using what farmers found in their yard, in the has been well rested, roll it out and drape it over a well-but- country side, and using often the parts of the animals that tered baking tin, being sure a good amount hangs over the could not be sold because less precious; and the tradition edges of the tin. Carefully mix all the ingredients to prepare remains. Nothing was ever thrown away, what remained at the filling that we will carefully lay down on the baking the end of a dinner, was used to create something new..... tin. With the dough that hangs over the edges, fold them old bread became papa al pomodoro, meat became tordelli, towards the center, giving them the shape of cones - the and chestnut polenta was fried, and with a little bit a sugar famous „beaks“, than will crown it like merlons. Cook at became sweats for the day after. Even know days plates are moderate heat for approximately 40 minutes. prepared using what the land offers , simple ingredients, such as olive oil, chestnut, fresh vegetable are at the base of CHICKEN WITH HERBS AND LEMON all. Just to give you an idea of a menu... In order to make this flavorful chicken, we need 2 or 3 lem- Pappa al pomodoro Tagliolini al brodo di fagioli (Bean Soup with tagliolini) Farro (spelt) (cooked both in a soup as well as in salad) Tordelli Second Dishes Fegatelli (pork liver) Polenta (both corn as well as chestnut) with wild bore or rabbit with tomatoe sauce and olives Chicken with lemon, olives and aromatic herbs Trippa alla Lucchese Desserts Torta coi becchi Castagnaccio ons, rosemary and sage in abundance, garlic, extra virgin ol- And know, if you want to try out yourself, here are some Tortelli, here in Lucca pronounced “tordelli”, are pasta ‚pil- hints... lows‘ filled with meat, parmigiano cheese, egg and herbs. First We want to give you a taste of our Lucca. We have chosen these three characteristic recipees of Tuscan cooking. Try them and impress your friends and family! TORTA COI BECCHI It is said that a mythical old woman, a fairy or a witch, which one, we are unsure, had the idea to invent a cake without an equal in the world. Therefore the „cake with the beaks“ was born. The ingredients for the outside are: 500 gr. of flour, 5 eggs (of which 4 egg yolks and 1 egg white), 100 gr. of butter, a drop of milk, a pinch of salt, 2 shots of liqueur, 250 gr. of sugar, yeast as needed. ive oil, meat broth and chicken pieces. We prefer thighs and above the thigh. Brown the garlic with rosemary and sage, all previously chopped with a mezzaluna chopping tool. Add the chicken, and after having bathed it with white wine, add the peeled lemons, cut into thin slices. Cook the chicken slowly taking care to add broth as it evaporates. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve warm.We want to give you a taste of our Lucca. We have chosen these three characteristic recipees of Bagni di Lucca - Italy GOURMET TIPS Tuscan cooking. Try them and impress your friends and family! And then, why not write to let us know how it all went? TORDELLI: of all, we must prepare the mixture for the filling: for this we use slices of roasted beef and pork minced very finely, eggs, bread slices softened in broth and crumbled, cooked chopped swiss chard, grated parmesan and pecorino cheese, nutmeg, thyme, salt and pepper. To prepare the pasta, mix together flour, eggs and salt. Then spread or roll the dough as thinly or as thickly as you want the pasta to be. At this point, cut the dough into long strips, approximately 8 - 10 centimeters wide and on each one, put a small spoonful of filling. Then fold each strip on itself the full length, close it and cut it with appropriate fustella, making each „tordello“ moon-shaped. www.termebagnidilucca.it 89