The Upper Adriatic cycling route
Transcription
The Upper Adriatic cycling route
Adriabike The Upper Adriatic cycling route Kranjska Gora, Koper, Trieste, Venice, Ravenna 1 Publishing organisation: APT della Provincia di Venezia: Paola Basso with the collaboration of Larisa Kunst and Diego Gallo Cartography: R. Rossi, Cirgeo Unipd – F. Pedrazzoli, Ediciclo Photographs: Archivio fotografico Interbike (M. Danesin, A. Ziraldo, D. Gallo), Archivio fotografico APT Venezia Archivio fotografico Provincia di Venezia (M. Fletzer) Archivio Turismo Padova Terme Euganee by courtesy of the Comune di Padova-Assessorato alla Cultura Archivio fotografico Provincia di Rovigo (S. Lunardi) Archivio fotografico GAL Polesine Delta del Po (L. Calzolari) Archivio fotografico Provincia di Ravenna Archivio fotografico della Provincia di Ferrara (F.Meneghetti, M.Marchetti, M.Baraldi) Archivio fotografico dell’Unione di Prodotto Costa Archivio fotografico LTO Sotočje (M. Lenarčič, L. Olmi) Archivio fotografico LTO Kranjska Gora (B.Rojnik, M. Vidmar, I. Noč) Archivio fotografico TIC Kanal Archivio fotografico del Museo di Kobarid Uroš Švigelj Archivio fotografico TZ TIC Nova Gorica Archivio fotografico Comune di Komen Archivio fotografico Comune di Šempeter-Vrtojba Archivio fotografico del Parco delle Grotte di San Canziano (B. Lozej) Archivio fotografico TZ Portorož (U. Trnkoczy, J. Jeraša) Archivio fotografico TIC Koper (U. Trnkoczy) This publication can be found in electronic format at the website: www.adriabike.eu INTERBIKE Project funded by the Cross-Border Cooperation Programme Italy – Slovenia 2007-2013, by the European Fund for regional development and national funds. Progetto INTERBIKE finanziato nell’ambito del Programma per la Cooperazione Transfrontaliera Italia-Slovenia 20072013, dal Fondo europeo di sviluppo regionale e dai fondi nazionali. Projekt INTERBIKE sofinanciran v okviru Programa čezmejnega sodelovanja Slovenija-Italija 2007-2013 iz sredstev Evropskega sklada za regionalni razvoj in nacionalnih sredstev. Printed at: february 2015 First edition: 1000 copies Publisher: Litocenter s.r.l. Piazzola sul Brenta (Pd) Italy Ediciclo editore srl Via Cesare Beccaria 13/15 30026 Portogruaro (Ve) Italy Tel. + 39 0421.74475 – fax +39 0421.280065 www.ediciclo.it Total or partial reproduction with any means, including photocopies, is forbidden Contents Introduction 5 First week’s journey The emerald green road 6 Kranjska Gora - Nova Gorica - Koper - Trieste The tour of the Triglav mountain, 8 – The Upper Soča Valley, 10 – The middle course of the Soča, 12 – Crossing the Karst, – 14, The descent towards the Adriatic, 16 – Along the Parenzana, 18 Second week’s journey The road of the Serenissima 20 Portorož - Koper - Trieste - Venezia The Gulf of Trieste, 22 – Between the Karst and the sea, 24 – The Marano lagoon, 26 – Along the Lemene, 28 – The Coastline of the Veneto, 30 – The Islands of Venice, 32 Third week’s journey The road of the merchants and the burci Venezia - Delta del Po - Ravenna The Riviera del Brenta, 36 – The road of salt and sugar, 38 – The road of the valleys, 40 – Crossing of the Delta del Po, 42 – Between the park and the sea, 44 – Among valleys, beaches and pine woods, 46 34 Introduction This brochure has been created thanks to the Interbike project, funded by the Cross-border Cooperation Programme Italy-Slovenia 2007-2013, with the aim of encouraging cycling. The project includes the financing of infrastructure works favouring cyclists, the realisation of communication tools and the promotion of the touristic itinerary Adriabike, cycling route of the Upper Adriatic. The area of territories involved in the project fall within the regions of Emilia Romagna, Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia on the Italian side and the regions of Obalno-Kraška, Goriška and Gorenjska on the Slovenian side. This itinerary which connects Kranjska Gora to Ravenna is part of the European Eurovelo 8 cycling route and crosses the most fascinating areas of the Upper Adriatic and the Italian-Slovenian border. A varied and complete route which unites the beauty of cities of art like Koper (Capodistria), Trieste, Venice, Padua, Ravenna, with the various expressions of nature of the Julian Alps, the Karst Plateau, the lagoons and the Po Delta Park. The waterways are the recurring element of each day of the journey: downhill following the Sava River then the Soča, and finally the dense network of artificial canals which connect the Venetian land and the branches of the Po Delta. Adriabike is an unforgettable experience also from the point of view of the perfumes and tastes, in a continuous intertwining of alps, plains and sea. Three ideas for week-long journeys will allow you to live the experience of the Adriabike itinerary: - Kranjska Gora – Trieste: the emerald green road - Koper – Venice: the road of the Serenissima - Venice – Ravenna: the merchants’ road Each proposal lasts six days, it uses cycling lanes and B roads equipped with special signs and suggests using public transport such as trains and boats. The route is presented in this brochure following daily stages, where the main touristic information is indicated: a travel diary with photos and websites where you can get more information about the places. To complete the tools for the tourist a road-book containing detailed maps has been prepared, a touristic website (www.adriabike.eu) and a smart phone app. 4 A TARVISIO Kranjska Gora I ison e Most na Soči Nat Tagliamen to Kobarid č So zo on Is a/ SI Gorizia Portogruaro Padova VENEZIA Cavallino Lipica Lignano Grado TRIESTE Sabbiadoro Portorož Koper Portorose Capodistria HR Chioggia Adige Adria Po Goro mare Adriatico Jadransko morje Comacchio RAVENNA 5 First week’s journey The emerald green road Kranjska Gora - Nova Gorica - Koper Trieste Pedalling from the Julian Alps to the Gulf of Trieste 1 1 From the old station at Tarvisio you go towards the Fusine Lakes along the asphalted cycling lanes and then to the Slovenian border. You pedal amidst the woods until reaching Kranjska Gora, a well-known skiing and holiday resort at the foot of the Julian Alps. Then, passing through towns full of history, you reach the picturesque Lake Bled: here you catch the train – with your bike – which goes to Most na Soči. This is the historic railway line which connected Trieste to Vienna. Getting back on your bike, you go up the spectacular Soča Valley going through Tolmin, then on the left bank you reach Kobarid and you can visit the local war museum. Those who are better trained can continue to Bovec. From here you return to Tolmin and to Most na Soči, then you reach Kanal, with its enchanting bridge over the Soča river, then there is a stretch of gravel cycling lane towards Solkan and here we are at Nova Gorica and immediately afterwards at Gorizia. Now you enter the Slovenian Karst, among monasteries, castles, churches and villages, in the direction of Lipica, home of the famous horse breeding and vast stables. It is time to get onto the well-known Parenzana cycling route, passing through Koper (Capodistria), Izola (Isola), Portorož (Portorose), the spectacular Sečovlje (Sicciole) salt mines, near Koper (Capodistria), to finally reach Trieste after passing through the beautiful town centre of Muggia. The whole route is flanked by the railway line which allows you to hop on a train at any time. 6 3 3 5 TARVISIO A Kranjska Gora Jesenice Bled Bovec Triglav Bohinjska Bistrica Kobarid Most na Soči 2 Tolmin I SI Gorizia Nova Gorica Komen mare Adriatico Jadransko morje TRIESTE Portorož Portorose 4 Koper Capodistria 1 Kranjska Gora, former Tarvisio-Llubljana railway bridge 5 Sicciole salt mines, Parenzana cycling Lane 2 Tolmin, the Tolmin gorges 6 Trieste, Unity of Italy Square 3 Kanal, bridge over the Soča 4 Tarvisio, cycling path on the former railway line ROUTE INFORMATION 6 Lipica Starting point: Tarvisio Arrival: Trieste Length: about 350 km Conditions: route with some short stretches of dirt roads Indications: present in the first and sixth stages, some stretches of the third, fourth and fifth stages Inter-modality: train + bike + bus (to Komen, not always available) STAGES 1.Tarvisio - Kranjska Gora - Most na Soči The tour of the Triglav mountain (km 52) 2.Most na Soči - Tolmin - Kobarid - Bovec Kobarid The Upper Soča Valley (km 67) 3.Kobarid - Most na Soči - Kanal - Nova Gorica Gorizia The middle course of the Soča (km 63,5) 4.Gorizia - Nova Gorica - Komen - Lipica Crossing the Karst (km 77) 5.Lipica - Škocjan - Portorož The descent towards the Adriatic (km 61) 6.Portorož - Koper - Trieste Along the Parenzana (km 43) 7 First week | 1st day The tour of the Triglav mountain Tarvisio - Kranjska Gora - Most na Soči From the triangle of the frontiers (Italy, Austria, Slovenia) along the Sava cycling route ROUTE INFORMATION A new cycling lane passes by Tarvisio station, heading towards the Slovenian border: in the direction of the Fusine lakes, two emerald drops set in one of the coldest areas in Italy. We are on the foundations of the former Ljubljana-Tarvisio railway line, a great example of an old unused railway line converted into a cycling lane. In a word: greenway. Hurray! Continuing amidst the green countryside, at Rateče you enter Slovenia, soon arriving in the centre of Kranjska Gora, a famous tourist resort, where you can admire the church of the Assumption and the seventeenth century Liznjek House, a wonderful example of rural architecture which is now an ethnographic museum. The Sava river leads us to the beautiful town of Mojstrana, an old mining town, where three fantastic alpine valleys start and curve into the Julian Alps up to Triglav, the highest mountain in Slovenia (2864 m): Vrata, Kot and Krma. You head towards Jesenice, an important railway junction to then pass on towards the splendid Lake Bled, a spa and tourist area, enhanced by the small island floating in the centre. From here you catch the train which goes directly into the Soča Valley, to Most na Soči. 8 Starting point: Tarvisio Arrival: Bled (then Most na Soči by train) Length: 52 km Conditions: all asphalted cycling lanes, with some exceptions in the first part Indications: present Inter-modality: train + bike USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourism FVG Tarvisio via Roma 14, 33018 Tarvisio, tel. +39 0428 2135 [email protected] Tourist Office Kranjska Gora Kolodvorska ul. 1c, 4280 Kranjska Gora tel. +386 04 5809440, [email protected] www.kranjska-gora.si Tourist Office Dovje-Mojstrana Savska cesta 1, 4281 Dovje-Mojstrana tel. +386 04 5891320, [email protected] www.mojstrana.com Tourist Office Bled Cesta svobode 10, 4260 Bled, tel. +386 04 5741122 [email protected], www.td-bled.si Railway station: Tarvisio Boscoverde Jesenice, Vintgar, Bled Jezero Podbrdo, Most na Soči Slovenian railway: www.slo-zeleznice.si info: +386 012913332 A & Tarvisio & I KRANJSKA GORA Bled & Triglav va Triglavski narodni park Sa SI Blejsko jezero Bohinjsko jezero Bohinjska Bistrica Soča/Iso nzo 1 2 & MOST NA SOČI 3 4 1 Zelenci, source of the Sava Dolinka 3 Kranjska Gora, the Russian chapel under the Vršič pass 2 The Martuljek forest, cycling path 4 Kranjska Gora, Jasna Lake TRAVELLERS’ DIARY At Tarvisio – a border town – the AlpeAdria cycle route also crosses through, which from north to south from Austria leads to Italy towards Grado, passing through Buja, Udine, Palmanova and Aquileia: a virtuous circle which unites the three bordering countries by bicycle, bringing other important cycling itineraries into the network such as the Drava cycling route. From the old former railway station in Tarvisio you head east and then you leave the track which goes towards Austria and Arnoldstein and instead go right towards the Fusine lakes and the frontier town of Rateče, a small town dominated by the Peč Peak (1510 m) which marks the triple border of Italy, Slovenia and Austria. You continue along the nice asphalted cycling lane that uses the old nineteenth century railway line which connected Tarvisio to Ljubljana: it will keep you company for most of the day, skimming large fields and leading into thick refreshing woods. After a short while you arrive at the foot of the spectacular Planica side valley: where there are the famous trampolines used for ski jumping and where many world records were set up. With a pleasant ride you reach Kranjska Gora, well-known place for hosting world alpine ski competitions. The Sava Dolinka, one of the two source branches of the important Sava river, offers us some magical scenery in this rich and generous land, characterised by fields dotted with typical wooden barns, vertical racks, where the grass is left to dry. At Mojstrana you can visit Pocar House – one of the oldest farm houses in the Triglav National Park, now used for exhibitions – and the new Slovenian alpine museum. The cycling lane finishes in the town, so go towards the densely populated town of Jesenice and then from there – plunging once again into the green Slovenian alpine woods – to the wonderful Lake Bled. With an hour’s train journey you can change valley and reach Most na Soči, on the Soča river. 9 First week | 2nd day onzo Soča/Is Bovec The Upper Soča valley Most na Soči - Tolmin - Kobarid - Bovec Kobarid An enchanting bike ride along the emerald coloured river You are at Most na Soči, where the Idrijca plunges into the Soča: it is one of the main European prehistoric areas, as you will discover at the local Archaeological Museum. You follow the upper course of the Soča which, thanks to the many rapids, is paradise for those who love water sports like rafting, kayak, canoeing and hydro speed: it is a well-loved territory for the numerous fans of these sports. At Tolmin – known for its eighteenth century peasant revolt – you can find the Ethnographic Museum, the remains of a medieval castle and the magnificent Devil’s Bridge. Then you cross the river, thanks to the big Napoleonic arched stone bridge, reaching Kobarid, known for the famous retreat in November 1917, remembered in the local museum and the nearby St. Anthony’s memorial. From here those who are better trained can go up towards the source of the Soča, where there is the chance to visit the Boka waterfall. Now there is just one more hill towards Bovec. Then you return to Kobarid. 10 SI KOBARID Tolmin I MOST NA SOČI ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Most na Soči Arrival: Kobarid Length: 67 km (including the excursion to Bovec) Conditions: almost all the route is on asphalted road with mixed traffic Indications: absent Inter-modality: train + bike USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office Tolmin Petra Skalarja 4, 5220 Tolmin tel. +386 05 3800480, [email protected] www.dolina-soce.com Tourist Office Kobarid Trg svobode 16, 5222 Kobarid tel. +386 05 3800490, [email protected] www.dolina-soce.com Tourist Office Bovec Trg golobarskih žrtev 8, 5230 Bovec tel. +386 05 3841919 [email protected], www.bovec.si Railway station: Most na Soči T 1 2 3 4 1 The Soča Valley, Tolmin 3 Glimpse of the Soča 2 Kobarid, First World War Museum 4 Kobarid, Napoleonic bridge TRAVELLERS’ DIARY Once we get off the train which has brought us from Jesenice (or Bled) to Most na Soči, we enter an important archaeological area, as shown by the many findings of tombs from the Iron Age: Sveta Lucija Culture. After a walk along the paths around the lake, where there is a beautiful view of the town, we go back up the green course of water towards its Karstic source located in the Triglav National Park. It winds in a wild environment made up of waterfalls, rapids and large dams which exploit some of its energy: now nature rules, offering thousands of interesting views. Near the important little town of Tolmin – the Tolmin Gorges are remarkable, located at the lower entrance of the Triglav National Park. They are characterised by a large mass wedged in among the faces, from the Devil’s Bridge, suspended at a height of 60 metres above the bright blue waters of the Tolminka and the so-called Dante’s Cave, where local legend has it that the poet found inspiration for his Inferno. Let’s remember that when we visit his tomb in Ravenna... Near Kobarid we cross the river thanks to a fine Napoleonic bridge – a stone arch – and then we can visit the town which became part of history during 5 5 Trnovo ob Soči, bridge over the Soča the Great War: don’t miss the museum which is dedicated to the war but above all to peace, focusing on mankind. We continue on the right bank passing through the towns of Žaga and Log Čezsoški, heading north towards Bovec, at least for those who have been in training. From the road you can admire the Boka waterfall, one of the most spectacular in Europe, 144 metres high and 18 metres wide. Finally you reach the Bovec plain, where the source of the Soča can be found. The route is a cul-de-sac and we can turn back towards Kobarid, continuing to enjoy the green waters of the Soča. 11 KOBARID First week | 3rd day The middle course of the Soča Kobarid - Most na Soči - Kanal - Nova Gorica Gorizia & Tolmin foto venezia LAGUNA Most na Soči Kanal & Anhovo & SI So ča / Iso I nz o GORIZIA - NOVA GORICA Where the alpine breezes meet the perfumes of the Mediterranean This trip takes us to the middle course of the Soča; you pedal among many natural beauties, dams, bridges, lakes, waterfalls but also many historical and cultural splendours which make the ride fascinating and engaging. From Kobarid you follow the left bank of the Soča reaching Tolmin, on a panoramic road, and from here you go to Most na Soči, with its characteristic lake squeezed in between the mountains, to arrive then on an asphalted road up to Kanal, crossing the famous XVI century bridge, the symbol of the town, destroyed and rebuilt many times. You must also see the Kontrada square with its Gothic House and the parish church of the Assumption dating back to 1431. The route continues towards Plave, the theatre of many battles during the Great War: now the river becomes narrower and tortuous and you can enjoy the view pedalling on a safe gravel cycling lane. The vegetation continually changes: from beech tree woodlands to more thermophilic formations, with the addition of Mediterranean flora. The aromas of the mountains now give way to Mediterranean essences. At the end of the cycling lane the railway bridge at Solkan appears impressively, with its stone arch which is the widest in the world, an engineering masterpiece from the beginning of the XX century. From Solkan you quickly reach Nova Gorica, joined to Gorizia by Piazza Europa, symbol of fraternity between the two towns. 12 ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Kobarid Arrival: Nova Gorica Length: 63.5 km Conditions: mainly on asphalted road Indications: absent Inter-modality: train + bike (At Postaja, 2 km from Most na Soci, you can catch the train to Nova Gorica) USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office Kanal Pionirska 2, 5213 Kanal, tel. +386 05 3981213 [email protected], www.tic-kanal.si Tourist Office Nova Gorica Delpinova ulica 18b, 5000 Nova Gorica tel. +386 05 3304600, [email protected] www.novagorica-turizem.com Railway station: Most na Soči, Avče, Kanal, Anhovo, Solkan, Nova Gorica 1 2 3 4 1 Solkan, railway bridge 2 Kostanjevica, church of the Annunciation 3 Kanal, diving competition from the bridge over the Soča 5 5 Nova Gorica - Gorizia, Europa Square 4 Prilesje, church of Sveti Ahac TRAVELLERS’ DIARY You leave from Kobarid, where there are many interesting historical places nearby as well as unique natural sites. After crossing the Napoleonic bridge, turn right and follow the left river bank towards Tolmin, to then continue towards Most na Soči and then reach Kanal, a beautiful little town with a Baroque influence. The symbol of the town is certainly the bridge, architectural archetype: with ancient origins, destroyed and rebuilt many times, mentioned also in Hemingway’s Farewell to Arms, it continues to be at the centre of the town’s social life, so much so that it has become, from its 17 metre height, a trampoline for a famous international diving competition. Now you follow the left bank and the Soča becomes more tortuous, giving us wonderful views. You pass through the towns of Plave and Prilesje with the Sveti Ahac church. A cycling path next to the river leads us under another important bridge, a railway bridge this time: we are near Solkan and this bridge holds a world record. In fact with its 4533 square limestone bricks from the Nabrežina quarries and its length of 85 metres, it is the longest single-arch bridge in the world made from cut stones. After the railway bridge, you go towards the new Solkan bridge which leads to Nova Gorica, the town which rose as the Slovenian counterpart of the Italian Gorizia, after the second world war. Of historical interest we can see the railway station, located on the Transalpine line and just a few metres away from the Italian border, which you must cross to visit the fine historical centre of this Friuli town. In the hills at the edge of the town there is the Kostanjevica Franciscan convent with the church of the Annunciation, the library and the Borbone crypt. 13 First week | 4th day & Crossing the Karst Soca GORIZIA - NOVA GORICA foto venezia LAGUNA SI Gorizia - Nova Gorica - Komen - Lipica Kr Discovering the Slovenian Karst: pleasant up and downhill ride, rich landscapes, perfumes and tastes of the Mediterranean & Ajdovščina Komen as - C ar so I Sežana & Adriatico Jadransko morje Trieste & LIPICA ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Gorizia – Nova Gorica Arrival: Lipica Length: 77 km Conditions: mainly on asphalted roads with mixed traffic and cycling lane from Vrtojba to Miren. Some uphill. Be careful of the wind. Indications: absent Inter-modality: train + bike We will get to know the Slovenian Karst better through this stage, it is a territory with particular characteristics from a historical, nature, cultural and gastronomic point of view. The route meanders – with frequent up and downhills, although not steep – in the spectacular limestone highlands which dominate the Gulf of Trieste, giving continuous emotions. You mainly pedal along narrow roads, open to traffic but not at all busy, surrounded by dry stone walls which seem to lead towards nowhere. Nature rules here, modelled by the Bora wind and enriched by unique colours, which especially in Autumn present us with glimpses of great vitality. Then all of a sudden, an old village appears, the remains of a medieval castle, a bell tower and we return to civilization. Then after a bend in the road, the extensive view of the Gulf of Trieste explodes in front of us, dominated from above. Starting from Nova Gorica the trip continuously comes close to the Italian border, passing through villages which have a double name, as they were once Italian, and Austrian before that, until we reach Lipica and its centuries-old horse stud farm. 14 USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office Nova Gorica, Delpinova ulica 18b, 5000 Nova Gorica, tel. +386 05 3304600 tzticng@ siol.net, www.novagorica-turizem.com Tourist Office Šempeter-Vrtojba Trg Ivana Roba 4, 5290 Šempeter pri Gorici tel. + 386 05 3936117, www.gea-sp.si Tourist Office Štanjel, Štanjel 1a, 6222 Štanjel tel. +386 07 690056, [email protected] Tourist Office Dutovlje, Bunčetova domačija 6221 Dutovlje, tel. +386 05 7641549, [email protected] Hostel Pliskovica, Pliskovica 11, 6221 Dutovlje tel. +386 05 7640250; [email protected] www.hostelkras.com Tourist Office Sežana, Partizanska ulica 63 6210 Sežana, tel. +386 05 7310128 [email protected], www.vinskacestakras.si Tourist Office Equile di Lipica Lipica 5, 6210 Sežana, tel. +386 05 7391580 [email protected], www.lipica.org Railway stations: Gorizia, Nova Gorica, Šempeter pri Gorici, Štanjel, Dutovlje, Sežana & & 1 2 3 4 1 Štanjel, castle with surrounding walls 3 Šempeter pri Gorici, Coronini Palace 2 Dutovije, wine making centre 4 Lipica, horses grazing TRAVELLERS’ DIARY We leave from Nova Gorica along the Vipava Valley to reach Šempeter (St. Peter), where there is the fifteenth century church of St. Peter, the Coronini Counts’ castle and Villa Maffei. Then there is a nice cycling lane which reaches Miren, dominated by the wonderful sanctuary of Saint Grado in Merna, dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows. Among gentle hills and some gravel roads, you reach Lokvica, then Sela na Krasu, from where there is a spectacular view of the Gulf of Trieste. At Škrbina you can visit the painter Lojze Spacal’s house, then you pass through the beautiful village of Sveto with its church dedicated to Saint Egidio, one of the leading exam- ples of sacred architecture in Slovenia. Then we reach Komen, which was an important administrative centre in the western Karst region, afterwards we continue into the heart of the Karst until we pass through the villages of Pliskovica and Dutovlje, a famous wine making centre specialised in the production of Teran, the local nectar. You can also reach Dutovlje, passing through the medieval town of Štanjel which with its castle and surrounding walls represents the most attractive tourist spot in the Karst. Then you reach Toma, a village where you can visit Srečko Kosovel’s birthplace house, he was one of the most important Slove- nian poets. Pedalling along enchanted roads you reach Sežana, the main economic centre of the Karst, which hosts a botanical orchard which is over a hundred years old. Finally we arrive at our goal for today’s trip, the famous Lipica, known all over the world as the place where horses from the famous Hapsburg stud farm have been bred since the XVI century, giving origin to the Lipizzaner horses. Here everything centres around the horse stables: courses, exhibitions, horseback excursions, carriage rides, visits to the historical stables. 15 Kra s First week | 5th day & The descent towards the Adriatic Lipica - Škocjan - Portorož Adriatico Jadransko morje Trieste I & & Koper - Capodistria PORTOROŽ - PORTOROSE HR A slow, gentle ride from the Karst to Istria, with a visit to the spectacular Škocjan Caves ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Lipica Arrival: Portorož Length: 61 km Conditions: some stretches of gravel road, mainly on asphalted roads with light mixed traffic Indications: partial (along the Parenzana cycling path) Inter-modality: train + bike USEFUL ADDRESSES Before diving into the blue of the Adriatic, this route concentrates on the Karst tópoi: grottos, caves, sinkholes, underground rivers, stony territory with little vegetation. Along the route – a very pleasant downhill ride – you can find one of the three Slovenian sites which have been declared world heritage sites by Unesco, that is Škocjanske jame. This is a complex system of caverns and galleries covered by stalactites and stalagmites shaped by the underground river Reka which, after 40 kilometres underground, flows into the Gulf of Trieste near Štivan. You head towards Kozina, on the outer edge of the Karst and from here you reach Črni Kal with its characteristic leaning bell-tower (the gate of Benko House is also interesting, this is the oldest farmhouse in Slovenia). Then you go down along the Rižano valley, reaching the old Parenzana railway line which at the beginning of the XX century connected Trieste to Poreč. This well-equipped and much-used cycling path – which goes along beside the Škocjanski zatok Nature Reserve – leads to Koper (Capodistria), Izola (Isola) to finally reach Portorož (Portorose). 16 C Tourist Office Equile di Lipica Lipica 5, 6210 Sežana, tel. +386 05 7391580 [email protected], www.lipica.org Park Škocjanske jame Škocjan 2, 6215 Divača, tel. +386 05 7082110 [email protected], www.park-skocjanske-jame.si Tourist Office Koper Titov trg 3, 6000 Koper tel. +386 05 6646403, [email protected], www.koper.si Tourist Office Izola Ljubljanska ulica 17, 6310 Izola tel. +386 05 6401050 [email protected], www.izola.eu Tourist Office Portorož Obala 16, 6320 Portorož, tel. +386 05 6742220 [email protected], www.portoroz.si Tourist Office Piran Tartinijev trg 2, 6330 Piran tel. +386 05 6734440, [email protected] www.portoroz.si Railway stations: Divača, Hrpelje-Kozina, Koper Ferries: the Trieste-Rovinj line is active in July and August 5 times a week with a stop at Piran (Pirano). The number of bikes allowed on board is limited. ars & o LIPICA Škocjan & & Kozina SI 1 Koper - Capodistria, seafront 2 Škocjan, Škocjanske jame caves 3 Portorož - Portorose, beach 1 TRAVELLERS’ DIARY From the centre of Lipica the itinerary continues on gravel road until reaching Lokev, where we find an imposing fortified stone tower, erected as a defence from the Turkish invasions, today hosting a great collection of arms, uniforms and other military objects. You continue, reaching the entrance to the Škocjanske Jame Park – in the town of Divača – you must not miss seeing its magnificent caves, one of the greatest attractions in Slovenia. After the visit carry on pedalling until you reach the edge of the plateau, that is Kozina where another cycling path crosses, the Trieste-Hrpelje (which you will use partially on the second day of the second week), along a stretch of 2 the sediment of the Trieste-Ljubljana railway line. Further down there is the village of Črni Kal, nestled in the green from where the white church of St. Valentine stands out. Now the road goes down with wide bends and weaves its way into the Rižana river valley until reaching the old Parenzana railway track – narrow gauge and only one track – which from 1902 connected Trieste to Poreč in 123 kilometres. It went out of use in 1935, a few years ago it was transformed into a cycling lane (D8 cycling route) called “Parenzana: road of health and friendship”. Pedalling along this nice route you reach the Škocjanski zatok Nature Reserve, greatest salt mars area in Slovenia, 3 then you reach Koper (Capodistria), with its wonderful historical town centre of obvious Venetian influence. To reach Izola (Isola) you pedal next to the sea on a special cycling lane also reserved for other users. Then you go through a tunnel and reach Štrungan (Strugnano), the former salt mine area. A second tunnel allows us to reach Portorož (Portorose), famous tourist resort in Slovenian Istria – in the municipality of Piran (Pirano) – with its centuries-old spa tradition. The mud for the spas comes from the salt mines in Sečovlje (Sicciole), the nature reserve 10 kilometres away from Portorož (Portorose) in the direction of the Croatian border. 17 Kra First week | 6 day th Along the Parenzana Portorož - Koper - Trieste s C ar Trieste Adriatico Jadransko morje & & Koper - Capodistria PORTOROŽ - PORTOROSE HR ROUTE INFORMATION 18 I Muggia Along the Istrian coast to the Gulf of Trieste From Portorož (Portorose) – the best known seaside resort in Slovenia, specialised in spas and situated in the Piran (Pirano) peninsula – the wonderful cycling path passes by the Ŝtrungan (Strugnano) salt mines, now a nature reserve. We must point out the presence in this coastal town of the important sanctuary of the Vision of Saint Mary, where many pilgrimages end. At Izola (Isola) the Venetian dominion which lasted for centuries left its mark, not only with the lions of St. Mark which can still be seen but also in the urban structure, in the XVI century Town Hall and other prestigious private villas. Then you reach Koper (Capodistria), where the town centre looks like a little Venice, with paved streets, the Praetorian Palace in Gothic-Renaissance style, the town loggia, the Carmine Baptistery and the cathedral of the Assumption of Mary. Leaving the city, you go along the Rižana valley among cultivated fields and vineyards, going gently up towards Škofije where you cross the border into Italy. From here you soon arrive in Trieste on mixed traffic roads. so Starting point: Portorož (Portorose) Arrival: Trieste Length: 43 km (Portorož-Trieste) Conditions: almost everywhere there are good separate cycling lanes, with a few stretches of mixed traffic near Trieste Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + boat (Muggia-Trieste) USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office Portorož Obala 16, 6320 Portorož, tel. +386 05 6742220 [email protected], www.portoroz.si Tourist Office Piran, Tartinijev trg 2 6330 Piran, tel. +386 05 6734440 [email protected], www.portoroz.si Tourist Office Izola, Ljubljanska ulica 17 6310 Izola, tel. +386 05 6401050 [email protected], www.izola.eu Tourist Office Koper, Titov trg 3 6000 Koper, tel. +386 05 6646403 [email protected], www.koper.si IAT Muggia via Roma 20, Muggia, tel. + 39 04 0273259 Tourist Office FVG - Trieste Via dell’Orologio, 1 tel. +39 040 3478312 [email protected] Ferries: the Muggia-Trieste line is active every day (limited number of bikes) 1 2 3 4 1 Koper - Capodistria, former salt warehouse 3 Koper - Capodistria, Praetorian Palace 2 Trieste, Grand Canal 4 Sečovlje salt mines, the Parenzana cycling path TRAVELLERS’ DIARY Leaving Portorož (Portorose), an illuminated tunnel leads us to the Štrungan (Strugnano) salt mines – included in the beautiful coastal nature park – and from here the cycling path leads us towards the town of Izola (isola) pedalling along the foot of the hills. Having visited the wonderful historical centre you arrive near the coast and can enjoy the panorama from above, with a vast spectacular view over the cobalt blue of the Gulf of Trieste. The time has come to make a triumphant entrance into Koper (Capodistria), which is announced by its high bell-tower: it is one of the most characteristic historical centres in Istria and the only commercial port in Slovenia, as well as being one of the most important in the Upper Adriatic. After visiting the town carefully – not only the splendid Tito Square but also the smaller squares, the wells, the lions of St. Mark, the majestic gates, the old port – you continue cycling and immediately come to the Strunjan (Strugnano) 5 5 Strunjan - Strugnano, tunnel on the Parenzana cycling path Nature Reserve, a stretch of sea captured by the mainland which reminds us how Koper (Capodistria) was an island in the past. It is the largest salt mars area in Slovenia, known for the abundance of its flora and fauna. From here it is only a short distance to the border: you go back up the Rižana valley and, slightly uphill, you are already in Škofije and at the Rabula border. Then you head towards Trieste on a mixed traffic road, cutting transversally across the headland where Muggia rises. 19 Second week’s journey The road of the Serenissima Portorož - Koper - Trieste - Venezia Bike and boat among beaches and the lagoon 1 1 From Portorož (Portorosa) and Koper (Capodistria) you reach Trieste and the Gulf with the same name thanks to a ferry from Muggia. Then you climb the Carso using the cycling path of Val Rosandra, with splendid sea views: then you carry on towards Basovizza and then easily descend towards Duino, embellished by the cliffs overhanging the water and the beautiful castle. As an alternative from Trieste you can go by train to the town of Monfalcone. Now you are in “Bisiacaria” – a land between the rivers Timavo and Isonzo – which you cross to reach Grado, suspended between land, sea, lagoon, rivers and canals. Then you pass through Aquileia, a jewel of Roman and Byzantine art, continuing then towards the Marano lagoon and Lignano Sabbiadoro. There is also the possibility of arriving here by boat from Grado. Then you go to Bibione to head towards the Concordia Sagittaria archaeological site and the beautiful centre of Portogruaro, resting on the banks of the river Lemene. After this you go towards the coastal area along the seaside cycle paths: Caorle, Eraclea, Cortellazzo to then reach Jesolo and Cavallino, the orchards of the Venetian lagoon. From Punta Sabbioni, with a short motor-vessel ride, you arrive on the island of Lido of Venice, which you can ride around and then take the ferry to Pellestrina which takes us into an authentic atmosphere, between the sea and the lagoon, until you arrive in front of Chioggia. As an alternative, from Lido you can go to Venice, a natural place to stop during this journey on the Serenissima routes. 20 3 3 5 I SI Palmanova Portogruaro Lignano Sabbiadoro Grado 2 Trieste Caorle VENEZIA PORTOROŽ PORTOROSE Jesolo Cavallino Punta Treporti Sabbioni Lido di Venezia Chioggia mare Adriatico Jadransko morje HR 4 1 Portorož - Portorose, Landscape 2 Koper - Capodistria, Brolo Square 3 Grado, beach 4 Duino Castle, panoramic view 5 Bibione, beach and lighthouse 6 Venice-Mestre, San Giuliano Park ROUTE INFORMATION 6 Starting point: Portorož (Portorose) Arrival: Venice Length: 400 km Conditions: route with some short stretches of dirt roads Indications: an easy route with asphalted roads, suitable for everyone, except for the stage near Trieste which has some uphill climbs and gravel stretches which can be avoided by train. Inter-modality: bike + boat STAGES 1.Portorož - Koper - Muggia - Trieste The Gulf of Trieste (km 31) 2.Trieste - Duino - Monfalcone - Grado Between the Karst and the sea (km 100) 3.Grado - Aquileia - Lignano Sabbiadoro The Marano lagoon (km 82) 4.Lignano Sabbiadoro - Concordia Sagittaria Portogruaro Along the Lemene (km 52) 5.Portogruaro - Caorle - Eraclea - Jesolo Cavallino - Punta Sabbioni The coastline of the Veneto (km 77) 6.Punta Sabbioni - Lido di Venezia - Pellestrina Chioggia The islands of Venice (km 23) 21 Kra Second week | 1 day st The Gulf of Trieste Portorož - Koper - Muggia - Trieste Pedalling along the seafront on a cycling path to reach the town s C ar Trieste Adriatico Jadransko morje & & Koper - Capodistria PORTOROŽ - PORTOROSE HR Starting point: Portorož (Portorose) Arrival: Trieste Length: km 31 (Portorož-Muggia) Conditions: a good separate cycling path almost everywhere Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + boat USEFUL ADDRESSES 22 I Muggia ROUTE INFORMATION This trip perfectly blends the sea and culture, the golden sands with history and nature with art. Using a spectacular cycling path right near the edge of the water along the Adriatic you pass by the famous seaside resort and spa Portorož (Portorose) and reach Izola (Isola) and Koper (Capodistria), where the traces of the glorious past are still present as well as the close and intense ties to Venice. Strolling along the picturesque paved streets you can admire many Gothic villas, colonnades, beautiful churches and high bell-towers. Then you cross over the border reaching Muggia – the only Italian town which geographically belongs to Istria with particularly Venetian characteristics – which looks directly over the Gulf of Trieste. From here you catch a ferry which quickly takes you to the central dock of the capital city of the region. so Tourist Office Portorož Obala 16, Portorož, tel. +386 05 6742220 [email protected], www.portoroz.si Tourist Office Piran Tartinijev trg 2, Piran, tel. +386 05 6734440 [email protected], www.portoroz.si Tourist Office Izola Ljubljanska ulica 17, Izola, tel. +386 05 6401050 [email protected], www.izola.eu Tourist Office Koper Titov trg 3, Koper, tel. +386 05 6646403 [email protected], www.koper.si IAT Muggia via Roma 20, Muggia, tel. + 39 040 273259 Touristic Office FVG -Trieste Via dell’Orologio, 1 tel. +39 040 3478312 [email protected] Trieste railway station piazza della Libertà 8, Trieste www.trenitalia.com Ferries: the Muggia-Trieste line is active daily (limited number of bikes) 1 2 3 4 1 Portorož - Portorose, beaches 3 Muggia, harbour 2 Koper - Capodistria, Tito Square 4 Trieste, Miramare Castle TRAVELLERS’ DIARY To reach the pulsating heart of Trieste from the spectacular Istrian coast we advise you to use the sea route, which will get you to Muggia, and tothe chief city of the region, offering you the breathtaking view of the town sheltering on a sort of amphitheatre overhanging the gulf. For references to the cycling path from Portorož (Portorose) to Muggia – see the description of the sixth stage of the first week’s trip. When you arrive near the picturesque historical centre of Muggia you must have a good visit at the small port (Mandracchio), the old circle of walls showing gates topped by lions of St. Mark and the castle which dominates the city, and for those who are better trained in uphill rides, the old sanctuary of Saint Mary of the Assumption which dates back to the XIII century; then you can catch the convenient ferry (limited number of bikes) which brings you in to Trieste with spectacular views. Once you get off you are immediately in the heart of the city, Unity of Italy Square, surrounded by numerous villas and public buildings, like the Trieste Town Hall, the building of the Regional 5 5 Trieste, Roman theatre council of Friuli Venezia Giulia and the Prefecture, as well as historical coffee houses. There are so many interesting places to visit in this city where you can still breathe the air of Central Europe: from the Revoltella Museum to the Natural History Museum, from the Museum of the Sea to the Town Theatre, from the Cathedral of Saint Justus to the Synagogue, from the Serbian-Orthodox church of Saint Spyridon to the Greek Orthodox church of Saint Nicholas, from the Miramare Castle to the Saint Justus castle, from the Roman Theatre to Richard’s Arch. 23 Second week | 2nd day Between the Karst and the sea Trieste - Duino - Monfalcone - Grado Pedalling between land and water, sea and lagoon, canals and groves of reeds From Unità Square, heart of the city, you reach the San Giacomo district, where the Giordano Cottur cycling path starts from, a constant, gentle uphill ride, it leads to the Karst overlooking the Rosandra Valley, one of the most interesting nature sites in the territory. Then you go to Draga Sant’Elia, you leave the cycling path which you followed here from Trieste to go towards Basovizza; continue alongside the Karst Plateau and then easily ride down to Duino, where there is the famous castle, also celebrated by Rainer Maria Rilke. You soon reach Monfalcone: for those who are not so well trained we advise catching the train from Trieste to Monfalcone. From here a splendid route starts along the estuary of the Soča, among nature parks, reeds, valleys, gulfs, canals, lagoons, little islands (the sanctuary of the Madonna di Barbana), a paradise for nature lovers and birdwatchers. You then arrive in the historical centre of Grado, enhanced by its insularity and the presence of extraordinary monuments such as the Cathedral of Saint Euphemia, the baptistery and cathedral of St. Mary of Graces. 24 ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Trieste Arrival: Grado Length: 100 km from Trieste (40 km from Monfalcone using the train service from Trieste to Monfalcone) Conditions: some long stretches are on protected cycling paths (Trieste – Draga S. Elia and Punta Sdobba – Grado), others on mixed traffic roads Indications: present from Monfalcone to Grado route FVG 2 Inter-modality: bike + train USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office FVG - Grado, Viale D. Alighieri, 66 tel. +39 0431 877111 [email protected]; Trieste Railway Station piazza della Libertà 8, Trieste www.trenitalia.com Monfalcone Railway Station piazza della Stazione 1 Monfalcone - www.trenitalia.com 1 2 I So o nz Iso / ča Monfalcone & Kr Duino as Ca rs o & GRADO 3 Grado, lagoon 2 Duino, view of the Karst towards Slovenia TRAVELLERS’ DIARY This route starts from the spectacular cycling-walking path, named after the champion from Trieste Giordano Cottur, from Trieste it leads to the Karst using the nineteenth century Trieste-Hrpelje railway line, using the narrow viaducts and tunnels. At the start from the San Giacomo district, there is also an information centre. You go back up the wild Rosandra valley, the route of an ancient spice and salt road, dominated by a picturesque little church, Holy Mary in Siaris – clinging to a rock spur. At Draga Saint Elijah at the Slovenian border, go towards the left in the direction of Basovizza; you pass through Opicina, Borgo Grotta Gigante, Rupinpiccolo and Sgonico, on the far side of the Karst & Adriatico Jadransko morje 3 1 Trieste, Audace pier TRIESTE Plateau, to then descend to the sea at Sistiana and Duino, a well-known resort for its castle as well as the wonderful Falesie di Duino Nature Reserve and for the panoramic “Rilke Path”. Having crossed the Timav, you enter Bisiacaria, (an unconfirmed word origin says it derives from the Latin bis aquaei), a historical region between the estuaries of the Timav and the Soča with its traditions, history, culture and language. You then arrive in Monfalcone: we advise this route only for those who are well trained, while we suggest that all the others catch the train from Trieste to Monfalcone. From Monfalcone a pleasant cycling path starts which touches three very SI important nature areas: the Regional Nature Reserve Estuary of the Soča, the Nature Oasis of Caneo and the Cavanata Valley Regional Nature Reserve. When you reach Punta Sdobba and the huge reed beds among mudflats and sandbanks at the estuary of the Soča, you cycle along a spectacular river bank where there is a blending of the sounds of the backwash, the smell of the sea, the view of the Istrian coast and the never-ending expanse of the Bonifica della Vittoria (Victory Land Reclamation). Remaining on a cycling path you reach the splendid town of Grado, a jewel of art and history. 25 Second week | 3rd day The Marano Lagoon Grado - Aquileia - Lignano Sabbiadoro From Grado and Aquileia to the Marano Lagoon and the estuary of the Tagliamento river near Lignano Sabbiadoro This stage can be carried out by bike and by boat, it makes its way into the lagoon habitat of Grado and Marano until reaching the seaside resort of Lignano Sabbiadoro. It is a private service and must be booked, with the possibility of embarking at Grado, Terzo di Aquileia (estuaries of the river Ausa), Marano and Lignano Sabbiadoro. Alternatively, the cycling route goes around the Marano lagoon touching on important historical sites. You pass through Aquileia, a magical archaeological site, a rich empire during Roman times and the administrative centre during the X Reign (Venetia et Histria). It took on an important role with the arrival of Christianity, becoming the largest diocese of the whole Middle Ages (Patriarchy of Aquileia). It is a Unesco World Heritage site due to the exceptional value of the enormous archaeological areas and the early Christian mosaics in the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption, which represent a fundamental stage in Italian history of art. When you arrive at Cervignano, turn to the west towards Torviscosa, an example of urban rationalism during the fascist period, or go north for 10 kilometres following the cycle path indications. This way you reach the fortress city of Palmanova, a masterpiece of Friuli military architecture thanks to the nine-pointed star shape and the hexagonal central square. At the gates of the town there is the picturesque medieval village Strassoldo which still treasures the Upper and Lower castles and the church of Holy Mary in Vineis. Taking once again the road towards Lignano Sabbiadoro, you pass through reclaimed countryside and come upon the centres of Marano lagoon, Preceicco on the Stella river and ride alongside the edge of the lagoon until reaching the well-known seaside resort. 26 1 ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Grado Arrival: Lignano Sabbiadoro Length: km 82 Conditions: a long stretch of cycling path from Grado to Cervignano, then the route progresses on very light traffic roads (except CervignanoTorviscosa) Indications: present (except some parts) Inter-modality: bike + boat USEFUL ADDRESSES Infopoint Turismo FVG Grado: tel. +39 0431 877111 Aquileia: tel. +39 0431 919491 Lignano Sabbiadoro: tel +39: 0431 71821 Transport: SAF – Società autoservizi FVG tel. chiamata gratuita 800 915303 (from land line) +39 0432 524406 (from mobile) e-mail: [email protected] Boat service: www.friuliinbarca.it tel +39 339 633 02 88 www.lagoonboatexcursionsaquileia.it tel. +39 333 257 12 59 2 3 Palmanova Stella Cervignano del Friuli Tag liam & Ausa Aquileia & So o ent Marano Lagunare ča /I so nz o Laguna di Grado & LIGNANO SABBIADORO 4 1 Grado, Cathedral of Saint Euphemia 3 Grado, tourist harbour 2 Marano, casoni in the lagoon 4 Aquileia, archaeological area TRAVELLERS’ DIARY You leave Grado following the cycle path built alongside the trans-lagoon bridge, up to Belvedere where the route connects to the new path built on the former railway line Cervignano-Belvedere. At Aquileia, one of the capitals of history and art in Friuli, you park your bike to relive the fascination of history strolling in the archaeological area, to visit the national museum and the Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption. Follow the cycling path again to reach Cervignano and, if you have time, you can make a short detour to the north on the Alpe Adria cycle path to reach the village of Strassoldo and the fortress city of Palmanova. Turning back, pedalling with no difficulty, head towards Torviscosa, an urban centre built during the fascist period following the development of the cellulose and artificial fibre cloth industries. Now the route leads into lower Friuli among artificial and natural canals, passing close to the villages of San Giorgio di Nogaro and Carlino: head south towards the Marano lagoon to reach the beautiful centre, where you can feel the centuries-old influence of the Republic of Saint Mark. Among canals and squares we can admire the nice fishermen’s houses, the loggia, the Palace of the Proveditors and the thousand-year-old tower. Continue along the spectacular edge of the lagoon and you pass through Precenicco and then you reach the Foci dello Stella Natural & GRADO Reserve. Then you head south, towards the beautiful peninsula where Lignano Sabbiadoro rises between the sea and the lagoon. In the 1960’s it became one of the most well-known resorts on the Adriatic. The stage has another “flavour” if you do it by boat: the environment of the lagoon is exalted by the perspective from the water. In an hour’s slow sailing you can be absorbed into the silence of a natural environment full of aromas and golden reflections. The boat goes close to the fishermen’s islands with the characteristic casoni of the valley. We advise you to embark at the source of the Ausa river in the town of Terzo di Aquileia and reach the tourist resort of Lignano Sabbiadoro. 27 Aquileia Second week | 4th day Along the Lemene Lignano Sabbiadoro - Concordia Sagittaria Portogruaro From the pine woods to one of the most interesting archaeological areas in the Veneto region, Concordia Sagittaria Once you have visited the three centres on the Lignano peninsula (Sabbiadoro, Pineta and Riviera) you head towards the estuary of the Tagliamento river, crossing this means entering the Veneto region: we are already in Bibione, another well-know tourist resort situated at the estuary of the Tagliamento river and which can be reached with a detour on a protected cycling path. We are now alongside the canals and fishing areas north of the Caorle lagoon, with beautiful swans and casoni - characteristic fishing huts made out of wood with thatched roofs, also used by the fishermen for sleeping – with landing areas, boats and wooden bridges; fields stretching out as far as the eye can see. After Lugugnana you head towards Castello di Brussa, where we suggest a detour to visit the magnificent Vallevecchia area, with thick Mediterranean pine woods and a beautiful natural beach. Once you arrive near Sindacale, you head north and reach Concordia Sagittaria, an important Roman town with impressive monuments like the Cathedral of St. Stephan, the Bishop’s Palace and the XI century Baptistery. Just a few kilometres away, on the banks of the river Lemene, there is the picturesque town of Portogruaro. 28 ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Lignano Sabbiadoro Arrival: Portogruaro Length: 52 km Conditions: almost all the route is on mixed traffic roads, although light traffic apart from a couple of stretches along B roads Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + boat USEFUL ADDRESSES IAT Tourist Information Office Caorle Rio Terrà delle Botteghe 3 30021 Caorle tel. +39 041 5298711 [email protected] 1 2 Stella Concordia Sagittaria liam & Tag PORTOGRUARO & o ent Laguna di Marano Castello di Brussa Le m en e Laguna di Caorle LIGNANO SABBIADORO & Bibione 3 1 Concordia Sagittaria, Cathedral of St. Stephan 3 Bibione, pine wood and lighthouse 2 Portogruaro, historical centre on the Lemene 4 Bibione, beach TRAVELLERS’ DIARY You leave Lignano Sabbiadoro pedalling along the lively main road of the tourist resort, then you go once again into the marshy, salty area, among fishing areas and tortuous water flows, until you cross the Tagliamento bridge which brings you into the province of Venice. Here we are at Bibione, a spa and tourist resort just recently created with one of the busiest beaches in Italy. The route goes along narrow roads which lead into a vast territory which was reclaimed at the beginning of the twentieth century and that transformed the marshy land into stretches of fields where, among others, the 4 Caorle famous white asparagus of Bibione is cultivated. When you arrive in Lugugnana after a short stretch on a B road, head south towards the Brussa Castle: nearby there is the nature area called Vallevecchia (or “Brussa”), which deserves a thorough visit. Carrying on pedalling among river banks and canals, you go west towards the offshoots of the Caorle lagoon, at a place called Sindacale you cross the B road and go up the Nicesolo canal, which flows into the Lemene river in the direction of the lovely town, Concordia Sagittaria. The town is of Roman origin (Julia Concordia) and still has a large archaeological area enriched by the presence of the cathedral and baptistery. Following the calm waters of the Lemene river, continue north until you reach Portogruaro, a beautiful town with a typical Veneto influence; Gothic buildings line the main street, the fourteenth century town loggia and the Cathedral with its leaning bell-tower. It also gives us some magical views thanks to the bridges and mills on the Lemene. Don’t miss a visit to the Concordia National Archaeological Museum. Portoguaro is in the centre of the area well-known for its wine production Lison Pramaggiore. 29 Second week | 5° giorno The Veneto coast Portogruaro - Caorle - Eraclea - Jesolo Cavallino - Punta Sabbioni Pedalling along the coastal cycling path More water and reclaimed land, drawbridges, water pumps, drop nets, casoni, canals, river banks. Also infinite horizons and red sunsets on twinkling water. From the historical centres of Portogruaro and Concordia Sagittaria we go towards Caorle, riding alongside the network of canals which make up the Veneto coastline, a waterway which connects the Gulf of Trieste to the Venetian lagoon. You pedal along the socalled “Cycle path of the beaches”. There are many opportunities for observation and places to visit, from the Caorle lagoon to places like Brian and its “vinciane locks” which stop the salt water from coming into the network of canals in the reclaimed area. Don’t forget a visit to the Eraclea mare pine woods – planted to protect the reclaimed land behind it from high tides – as well as the monumental water pump at Torre di Fine, showing the great drying operation carried out in the marshes. Then the Laguna del Mort – the old estuary of the river Piave, now a natural oasis - , and the bridge made out of boats on the present estuary of the Piave, at Cortellazzo. Then you arrive in the town centre of Jesolo, with the flow of the river Sile and the Venetian lagoon, which accompanies us to Cavallino, Treporti and Punta Sabbioni, which are also wellknown tourist resorts. 30 ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Portogruaro Arrival: Cavallino-Treporti-Punta Sabbioni Length: 77 km Conditions: almost all the route is on mixed traffic roads, although light traffic apart from a couple of stretches along B roads Indications: present, cycle path I 3 USEFUL ADRESSES IAT Tourist Information Office Caorle Rio Terrà delle Botteghe 30021 Caorle, tel. +39 041 5298711 [email protected] IAT Tourist Information Office Jesolo piazza Brescia 13, 30016 Jesolo tel +39 041 5298711, info@turismo venezia.it IAT Tourist Information Office Punta Sabbioni piazzale Punta Sabbioni, 30010 Cavallino Treporti tel. +39 041 5298711, [email protected] PORTOGRUARO & Concordia Sagittaria & Liv en za Le m en Piav e Sile Laguna di Venezia 1 Caorle Jesolo & & e Eraclea Mare CAVALLINO - TREPORTI PUNTA SABBIONI 2 1 Caorle, casoni on the fishermen’s island 3 3 Jesolo beach and the lighthouse at the Sile estuary 2 River Sile, bridge made of boats TRAVELLERS’ DIARY From Portogruaro you turn back passing through Concordia Sagittaria and Sindacale once again: from here you turn towards the south-east heading towards Caorle and its lagoon. Then you pass near Ca’ Corniani, a rural village, which deserves a stop due to its particular urban structure, developed around a large agricultural industry which employed a great number of farm workers. See the cellars and the two squares enclosed in the rural buildings. Then you cross the Livenza thanks to a characteristic bridge and we reach a very particular environment, which bewitched even Ernest Hemingway, the writer who set his novel Across the River and into the Trees in this place. We suggest a short detour on a cycling path to reach Falconera, one of the most impressive natural areas in the Veneto region, silence, rustling leaves, birds calling, and the many casoni (fishing huts) with their characteristic thatched roofs. In Caorle you must visit the XI century cathedral, characterised by its cylindrical bell-tower in Romanesque style, visible from far away. Continue to Porto Santa Margherita – a tourist resort well-known for its well-equipped marina– to reach the Laguna del Mort, the dead branch of the estuaries of the Piave river which has become a precious nature oasis. Then we are at the sea in Eraclea – the umpteenth tourist resort – you go over a picturesque bridge made out of boats which crosses the river Piave, the river with its estuary which flows out into the sea here in Cortellazzo. Keeping to the orographic right on the Cavetta canal – theatre of bloody battles during the Great War – you arrive in the town of Jesolo. Going up the Sile river (or old Piave), on the right bank you arrive at the Cavallino Navigation Lock, with its old harbour built by the Serenissima in 1632. From here you follow the Casson canal and then go along the evocative via Pordello, you ride alongside the lagoon until you reach Cavallino, Treporti and Punta Sabbioni, where you embark for Lido and Venice. 31 Second week | 6 day th Punta Sabbioni & Venezia The Islands of Venice & & Punta Sabbioni - Lido di Venezia Pellestrina - Chioggia & & Cavallino - Treporti LIDO DI VENEZIA Malamocco Pellestrina Adriatico Jadransko morje CHIOGGIA Discovering the islands of the Venetian lagoon, among the ancient capitals of the Doges, natural oasis, picturesque fishermen’s villages Pedalling along the narrow strip of land which divides the sea from the lagoon means perceiving the delicate balance maintained for centuries between these two different environments and the great effort the Serenissima made towards this end. Having arrived at the Lido of Venice with the ferry from Punta Sabbioni, you pedal alongside famous hotels which bring the Belle Epoque to mind, to then continue along the murazzi, a centuries old barrier system to defend the Lido from the sea. You reach the small historical centre of Malamocco, which still has its fascination of days gone by, when it was even the capital of the Venetian dogate. Touching the edges of the lagoon you reach Alberoni – an interesting natural oasis - here you catch the ferry for the island of Pellestrina. Now you enter the fishing kingdom: most of the inhabitants of the three main districts – Portosecco, San Pietro in Volta and Pellestrina – still carry out this activity to this day. Among glimpses of the lagoon, moored fishing boats, sheets hung out to dry and fishing casoni, you reach the southern tip of the island, where you can visit the Ca’ Roman natural oasis and enjoy the splendid view of Chioggia which is opposite. 32 ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Punta Sabbioni Arrival: Chioggia Length: 23 km Conditions: route on mixed traffic roads, with some kilometres of asphalted cycling path and one stretch (on the Pellestrina island) dirt road Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + boat USEFUL ADRESSES IAT Tourist Information Office Punta Sabbioni piazzale Punta Sabbioni, 30010 Cavallino Treporti tel. +39 041 5298711, [email protected] IAT Tourist Information Office Chioggia Centro storico, Palazzo Ravagnan, Riva Vena 895 30030 Chioggia, tel. +39 041 5298711 [email protected] IAT Tourist Information Office Venezia tel. +39 041 5298711, [email protected] 1 Lido of Venice, view over the lagoon 2 Venetian lagoon, fishermen’s houses 3 Venetian lagoon, gondola 1 4 Malamocco (Venice), historical centre 2 3 TRAVELLERS’ DIARY The Lido of Venice island offers many ideas for excursions, from the many Liberty style villas to the important monastery of Saint Nicholas, from the monumental Jewish cemetery to the more recent Votive Temple. Starting out from piazzale Santa Maria Elisabetta head towards the promenade passing by the huge former Hotel Des Bains and Hotel Excelsior, with their characteristic Moorish style. You pedal on a cement surface along the ancient walls reaching Malamocco, the ancient Metamauco, where there is the beautiful XV century Palace of the Podestà and the church of Holy Mary of the Assumption. Then – after a panoramic ride with a view of some little islands – you reach Alberoni, where there is a prestigious golf club and the interesting oasis of the Alberoni Dunes, managed by the WWF. When you reach the entrance to the canal which connects the sea to the lagoon – the harbour mouth - , you catch the ferry-boat which gets you to Pellestrina island in about 10 minutes. Here you continue on a well signed cycling path into the small town centres on this picturesque little island. The first place is San Pietro in Volta, which you cross on the lagoon side, riding past many moored fishing boats. In the doorways 4 you can still see some old ladies working tombolo lace, a tradition which can be seen in the local Lace Museum. Long rows of clothes hanging out to dry at the windows welcome the cyclists, and you can often see the locals organising barbeques on the banks, roasting the fish which has just been caught. Then you pass through Portosecco and reach Pellestrina, where there is All Saints’ Church. When you get to the landing stage of the ferry for Chioggia, you can instead continue along a route at the edge of the lagoon, unprotected, which in 2 kilometres leads you to the very interesting Ca’ Roman natural oasis. 33 Third week’s journey The road of the merchants and the burci Venezia - Delta del Po - Ravenna By bike from the city of the Doges to the capital of mosaics From Venice you head to Padua along the Brenta canal, where many villas are reflected; in the city of the Saint (Padua) you can enjoy visiting monuments such as the Scrovegni Chapel, St. Anthony’s Cathedral, the Specola. Then you reach the foot of the Euganean Hills (Colli Euganei) where there are the spas of Abano and Montegrotto; from here you follow the ancient waterway until reaching Chioggia. Then you go towards the Po Delta with an amphibian route through the estuaries of the rivers Brenta, Adige and Po. Finally you reach Adria, a small, very old town, as can be seen at the National Archaeological Museum. Now you are in Polesine and you carry on to enter Emilia Romagna and visit the Bosco Mesola Nature Reserve: from here you quickly arrive at Goro and Gorino. Then you ride past the famous IX century Pomposa Abbey to reach the historical centre of Commacchio; now it is time to pass through the fishing areas (for the eels) and the former salt mines, visiting the places of “Garibaldi’s march”. Going alongside the Ravenna pine woods and beaches you are coming to the end of your journey, which finishes in the extraordinary historical centre, which hosts eight Unesco monuments: the Basilica of Saint Apollinaire Nuovo, the Basilica of Saint Apollinaire in Classe, the Mausoleum of Theodoric, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the Basilica of Saint Vitale, the Arian Baptistery, the Neonian Baptistery, The Archiepiscopal Chapel. 34 1 1 3 3 5 VENEZIA Padova Parco Regionale d. Colli Euganei Chioggia mare Adriatico Jadransko morje Adria 2 Goro Comacchio Parco Regionale d. Delta del Po Parco Regionale d. Valli di Comacchio RAVENNA 4 1 Venice, St. Mark’s Square 2 Padua, Villa Dolfin-Kofler 3 Adria, Canalbianco 4 Lidi di Comacchio, beaches 5 Comacchio, fishing for eels 6 Ravenna, mosaic from the Arian Baptistery ROUTE INFORMATION 6 Starting point: Venice Arrival: Ravenna Length: 350 km Conditions: easy route, mainly asphalted, suitable for everyone Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + boat, bike + train STAGES 1.Venezia - Padova The Riviera del Brenta (km 50) 2.Padua - Abano e Montegrotto Terme - Chioggia The salt and sugar road of (km 66) 3.Chioggia - Porto Viro - Adria The road of the valleys (km 84) 4.Adria - Goro Crossing the Delta del Po (km 46,5) 5.Goro - Comacchio Between the park and the sea (km 32) 6.Comacchio - Sant’Alberto - Ravenna Among valleys, beaches and pine woods (km 65) 35 Third week | 1st day The Riviera del Brenta Venezia - Padova The ancient road of the Burchiello where the villas of the nobles are reflected in the river 1 The Rivera del Brenta has been mentioned by many travellers and writers, first of all Carlo Goldoni, as an ideal place for a holiday where the Venetian nobility between the XV and XVIII centuries built luxurious summer homes, transforming it into the fashionable canal, ideal extension of the Grand Canal itself. You can still breathe in an idyllic atmosphere along the canal, that is the old riverbed before it was deviated by the Serenissima outside the lagoon, to avoid it being covered. You pedal amongst willows, secular parks, dozens of historical villas (even monumental ones, such as Villa Widmann and Villa Foscari “La Malcontenta” in Mira) which are reflected in the calm waters of the waterway which for centuries has seen the passage of the famous Burchiello, the boat which every day connected the Serenissima to Padua, the well-known university town. You continue to Stra, in front of the splendid National Villa, you leave the canal and follow the Piovego canal which leads into Padua the city of the Saint, with its numerous jewels: the Scrovegni Chapel frescoed by Giotto, the old palace of the university (the Bò), St. Anthony’s Cathedral, the Regional Palace, the central piazze delle Erbe e della Frutta, the huge Prato della Valle. You can visit all these on your saddle. 36 ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Venezia Arrival: Padova Length: 50 km Conditions: mixed traffic route on light traffic B roads, dirt cycle path from Stra but easy, up to the centre of Padua, where it is asphalted Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + boat USEFUL ADDRESSES IAT Tourist Information Office Padova tel. +39 049 8752077, [email protected] IAT Tourist Information Office Venezia tel. +39 041 5298711, [email protected] Regional Institute Venetian Villas, Villa Venier Contarini via Capitello Albrizzi 3, 30034 Mira tel. +39 041 5235606, www.irvv.net [email protected] Supervised bike parking: Padova, piazzale Stazione, tel. +39 049 8759608 Bike hire and repair in Padua: list of bike services on the website www.turismopadova.it, www.padovainbici.it Railway stations: Venezia S. Lucia, Venezia-Mestre, Mira-Mirano, Dolo, Vigonza-Pianiga, Ponte di Brenta, Padova 2 & Brent a & & & & Riviera nta del Bre & VENEZIA lione Bacchig PADOVA Mira Dolo Stra Mestre 3 1 Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 2 Padua, Prato della Valle 3 Villa Giovanelli-Colonna TRAVELLERS’ DIARY From Venice you go over the bridge – Ponte della Libertà (while waiting for the opening of the cycling path) passing by Mestre train station and the centre of Marghera on urban cycling lanes; then you cycle along the winding and pleasant via Colombara, next to the old towers – Torre Colombara – the nineteenth century Tron Fortress to reach Oriago, a town mentioned by Dante in the V canto of his Purgatory. Here you go to the orographic right of the Brenta canal and the numerous and famous villas start to appear: it is certainly one of the most famous river towns in Italy and the light traffic allows you to enjoy it. You go past the pleasant towns along the river which are reflected in its waters, characterised by the presence of many locks and also a fair movement of boats, not only touristic. The towns are vivacious, there is no lack of squares and shops and the factories remind us that we are in the famous shoe-making area of the Riviera del Brenta. Passing through Mira and Dolo, you reach Villa Pisani in Stra, “The Queen of the Venetian Villas”, a national monument which contains among others some of Giambattista Tiepolo’s famous frescoes. Don’t miss the large park, with a maze, orangery and green houses. Now leave the flow of the Naviglio and – following the precise cycling indications – head towards Padua, riding alongside the Piovego canal, which is part of the network of canals around Padua. Keeping the canal on your left you pedal on a dirt road and reach Noventa Padovana, in front of the eighteenth century villa Giovanelli-Colonna, with a monumental staircase and Classic pronaos. Then you pass the outskirts of the town up to the cycling path built on the banks of the San Gregorio and Scaricatore canal, which leads into the centre of Padua. You enter the city through Prato della Valle, one of the biggest squares in Europe. 37 Third week | 2nd day The salt and sugar road Padova - Abano and Montegrotto Terme Chioggia From Padua to Chioggia along ancient canals 1 This stage coincides with the old trade route which connected Padua to Chioggia. Leaving the historical centre of Padua you head towards the river ring of the city, on the right bank of the Battaglia canal, heading towards the pointed outlines of the Euganean Hills. In the distance you can see the famous hotels of the biggest spa resort in Europe: Abano and Montegrotto. You reach Battaglia Terme, natural gateway to the Euganean Hills Park and important river junction: you can visit the interesting Civic Museum of River Navigation and admire the spectacular waterfall, regulated by the old hydraulic post of “Arco di Mezzo”. From here you continue alongside the winding Vigenzone canal towards Chioggia. The ancient canal was the strategic waterway which hosted the “burci”, large transport boats, which carried salt from Chioggia, sugar from Pontelongo and “masegne” trachyte from the hills. The route first leads to Bovolenta, then to Pontelongo – the sugar town – characterised by the fine town hall and Villa Foscarini Erizzo, and finally you reach Correzzola a small centre with a sixteenth-century Benedictine court founded by the monks who carried out important reclamation works in the area. On a river bank you pass by the Ca’ di Mezzo natural oasis and then head towards Brondolo and Chioggia, a characteristic fishing town. 38 ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Padova Arrival: Chioggia Length: 66 km Conditions: easy route, almost always on river banks, mostly asphalted, except for some stretches of dirt road Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + train USEFUL ADDRESSES IAT Tourist Information Office Padova tel. +39 049 8752077, [email protected] IAT Tourist Information Office Battaglia Terme tel. +39 049 9115996, [email protected] www.museonavigazione.eu IAT Tourist Information Office SottomarinaChioggia tel. +39 041 5298711, [email protected] Railway stations: Padova, Terme Euganee-Abano-Montegrotto, Pontelongo, Chioggia 2 & PADOVA Bacchig Abano Terme & Laguna di Venezia lione Montegrotto Terme & Battaglia Terme & Parco Regionale dei Colli Euganei 3 1 Bovolenta & Pontelongo Brent a CHIOGGIA & 4 1 Abano Terme, sources of the Montirone river 3 Due Carrare, Veneto countryside 2 Battaglia Terme, Civic Museum of River Navigation 4 Chioggia, Vena canal Adige Font Myriad pro TRAVELLERS’ DIARY At Bassanello, where there is the cycling bridge over the Scaricatore canal, you cross the water and then continue on a dirt road alongside the Battaglia canal. After a long, straight route you reach Battaglia Terme, where the waters join the Bisato canal to form the Vigenzone canal: here the water has been life, energy source, means of communication and transport for more than eight hundred years. From your saddle you can observe the magnificent Castle of the Catajo, a spectacular building with 350 rooms built in the XVI century by the Obizzi family. At Battaglia Terme – the gate to the Euganean Hills Park – the role played by rivers and canals is shown by the Museum of River Navigation which reconstructs the history of the important river port bringing together the history and traditions of this centuries-old activity. Now the route continues winding along the left bank of the Vigenzone canal which touches on small villages that evoke the water civilization – Gorghizzolo, Gorgo, Bovolenta – characterised by the presence of walled bridges, ancient mills, water pumps. At Bovolenta you go onto the Bacchiglione heading towards Pontelungo (long bridge – another name connected to water) and its sugar refinery which has been active since 1910. Don’t miss the much felt “Votive Procession”, the first Sunday in May, to thank the Madonna who freed the village from the plague in 1676, with a wooden votive bridge over the Bacchiglione. Now the river leads us towards Correzzola: a metallic footbridge gets you to the other side to reach the sixteenth-century Benedictine court built by the monks who began the process of reclaiming the territory. You soon approach the lagoon, the panorama flattens out and you begin to see the twinkling surface of salt water through the villages of Ca’ Bianca, Ca’ Pasqua and Brondolo, to then reach the picturesque town on the lagoon which welcomes you with a triumph of fishing boats and brightly coloured lugsails. 39 Third week | 3rd day CHIOGGIA The road of the valleys Rosolina Mare Chioggia - Porto Viro - Adria An amphibian route amidst water and land in the heart of the Po Delta Nature Park You start out from the historical centre of Chioggia pedalling triumphantly among the narrow streets and passing right next to the water along the picturesque Vena canal, which reminds us how the main economic activity here is still fishing. Then you can gaze onto the Lusenza lagoon and with a short detour you can visit Sottomarina, a well-known tourist resort. Then it is time for the estuaries of the Brenta river followed by that of the Adige, where you can find the Nordio Woods, precious remains of an ancient wet woods plain area surrounded by great stretches of fields where radicchio, “the rose of Chioggia” is also grown. Once you have crossed the river Adige you can make a detour to reach the estuary, the beaches of Rosolina Mare and the Coastal Botanic Garden at Porto Caleri, an important natural oasis. Now you go onto the “road of the valleys”, a narrow asphalted road which leads into a rarefied and isolated environment: here you can come across colonies of pink flamingos. Near Albarella island the road is interrupted, but a ferry gets you to the other side near Porto Levante. From the little fishing village you take up the road of the valleys once again and go by one of the most fascinating areas of the Po Delta Park until you reach Villaregia, where you meet the Po coming from Venice. You go up onto the wide embankment of the great river until Porto Viro, where the regional park is. Just a few more kilometres and you reach Adria which is reflected in the waters of the Canalbianco. 40 & Brenta & Adige & ADRIA Po Porto Viro & Parco Regionale Veneto del Delta del Po ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Chioggia Arrival: Adria Length: 84 km Conditions: easy route, on secondary roads and embankments mostly asphalted Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + boat to Porto Levante USEFUL ADDRESSES IAT Tourist Information Office Rovigo tel. +39 0425 386290 [email protected] www.polesineterratraduefiumi.it IAT Tourist Information Office Rosolina tel. +39 0426 326020 [email protected] Pro Loco - Tourist Office Adria, piazza Bocchi 1 tel. +39 0426 21675, [email protected] Railway stations : Chioggia, Cavarzere, Adria Ferry: Navigazione Marino Cacciatori via G. Matteotti 304, Porto Tolle (Ca’ Tiepolo) tel. +39 0426 380314 cell. +39 368 3817750/+39 338 8155581 www.marinocacciatori.it, [email protected] 1 Chioggia, historical centre 2 Po Delta, valleys 3 Po Delta, flamingos 1 4 Adria 2 3 TRAVELLERS’ DIARY Once you have left the centre of Chioggia and the beaches of Sottomarina, go beyond the river Brenta towards Brondolo, Ca’ Lino, Sant’Anna, this land is dedicated to market gardening. In fact, the agricultural landscape is characterised by small plots with huts and tunnels where mainly radicchio, carrots, onions and potatoes are grown. You ride close to the Bosco Nordio Integral Nature Reserve, where among the holly oaks, and maritime pines there are badgers, stone martens and many birds such as marsh falcons and serins. When you pass Cavanella d’Adige and cross the river Adige, you enter the road of the valleys, which greatly satisfies birdwatchers: large fishing lakes and lagoons, red sunsets, coots, herons and pink flamingos. The narrow asphalted road makes its way into the Boccavecchia valley, Canelle valley, Passarella valley, Spolverina valley, Capitania valley, Veniera valley; you can also visit some centres where there are eel, sea bream, sea bass and mullet nurseries. It is advisable to make a detour to reach Rosolina Mare beach and the Porto Caleri Botanical Garden, a fascinating oasis spread over 40 hectares. Continue along the left bank of the Po di Levante, behind Albarella island which formed thanks to an accumulation of sediment carried by the great river and which is now an exclusive tourist resort. At the estuary of the Po di Levante, a ferry service gets you across the river so you can continue 4 the route along the delta, enhanced by magical views. Continue inside the Veneto Regional Park of the Po Delta, then you go to the orographic right of the Po di Maistra and then the Po di Venezia, passing through Villaregia and from the top of the riverbank you overlook never-ending stretches planted with cereals. You reach the town of Porto Viro and right after there is the Volta Grimana lock, with its beautiful naturalist oasis, which connects the Po di Levante to the Po di Venezia. Following the Canalbianco canal along its right bank you reach the beautiful old town of Adria, which gave its name to a whole sea. 41 Third week | 4th day The crossing of the Delta del Po Adria - Goro & ADRIA Parco Regionale Veneto del Delta del Po Po di Venezia Po di Goro Mesola Parco del Delta del Po Emilia - Romagna GORO & Gorino The Delta del Po, up to the estuary of the great river The exploration of the Po Delta continues, this land whose history has always been tied to water, formed by seven branches, different environments which change and are modified from one season to another. It is a young and wild territory, an incalculable treasure trove of biodiversity, whose beauty attracts photographers and tourists and also poets and writers. Leaving Adria and its National Archaeological Museum you enter the so-called Ariano island. Pedalling along the right bank of the Po di Venezia you reach Taglio di Po where you go south in the direction of San Basilio. You must see the fossil dunes, the old medieval church and the surprising archaeological area with Roman finds. Start pedalling again following the flow of the river Po, go up along the Po di Goro embankment until the gates of the village Porto Viro – where at Ca’ Vendramin there is the Regional Reclamation Museum – then you head south along a B road to reach the bridge which leads to Emilia-Romagna. You are in the town of Mesola, dominated by the impressive sixteenth century castle, one of the nineteen Delizie Estensi (delights of the Este dynasty). Now you pedal along the well-known cycling path of the Destra Po, passing alongside both the Dindona Valley and a lovely bridge made out of boats on the left – you can reach the Gorino lighthouse of Ferrara, where the Po flows into the sea. 42 ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Adria Arrival: Goro (Gorino) Length: 46,5 km (58 km to the estuary) Conditions:easy route, on secondary roads and embankments mostly asphalted, some stretches with heavier traffic Indications: present USEFUL ADDRESSES Pro Loco Tourist Office Adria piazza Bocchi 1 tel. +39 0426 21675 [email protected] IAT Tourist Office Rovigo tel. +39 0425 386 290 [email protected] www.polesineterratraduefiumi.it Parco Regionale Veneto del Delta del Po +39 0426 372202 [email protected], www.parcodeltapo.org 2 1 3 1 Ariano nel Polesine, old Saint Basilio Church 2 Po Delta, water pump 4 4 Po Delta, flamingos in flight 3 Po Delta TRAVELLERS’ DIARY From Adria you follow the right bank of the Canalbianco, which you then leave at Piantamelon to turn right towards Bottrighe. Go over the bridge which crosses the Po di Venezia going right into the Po Delta, precisely into the so-called Arian island, that vast territory which originated from floods contained within some branches of the Po di Goro to the south, the Po di Venezia to the north and the Po della Donzella to the south-east. You are in an area called Polesine and this area is subdivided among the towns of Ariano nel Polesine, Corbola and Taglio di Po. When you have crossed the bridge, turn left following the flow of the Po di Venezia and you go along the cycling path on top of the river bank, accompanied by Venetian villas and rural farmsteads which developed here. Then you go through the village of Taglio di Po, which gets its name from the hydraulic work carried out by the Venetian Republic, the work of “cutting” the Porto Viro began on May 15 1600 and was finished on September 16 1604. The route now expects you to cross Ariano island, passing by Grillara, interesting for its Museo dell’Ocarina and the fossil dunes. You reach San Basilio where – on top of a fossil dune, remains of a proto-historic era – there is a Romanesque church, founded in the X century by the Benedictine monks of Pomposa. From the embankment you reach Ca’ Vendramin, where there is the Museo Regionale della Bonifica, you continue until you get to the bridge made out of boats between Goro Veneto and Gorino Ferrarese, where there is the sixteenth century castle, one of the so-called Estensi Delights. A little further south there is the Bosco Mesola Nature Reserve. Now you ride along the cycling path on the right of the Po which leads to Goro and you continue to Lanterna Vecchia and the Gorino Ferrarese lighthouse, where the Po plunges into the Adriatic. 43 Third week | 5th day Parco del Delta del Po Emilia - Romagna GORO Between the park and the sea Goro - Comacchio Po & COMACCHIO From Gorino and Goro, just where the Po flows into the Adriatic, you head south towards your destination, Ravenna, with a short stage to the beautiful Comacchio. You can admire a beautiful and very particular natural environment, the Sacca di Goro, a vast shallow lagoon, with mullet, sea bream, eel, sea bass and shellfish nurseries. Watching the cockles and mussels being collected in the early hours of the morning is a really unique experience. Then you pedal inside the Bosco della Mesola, along a cycling path on the border between the sea and the forest and then you reach another natural oasis, the Canneviè-Porticino valley. From here we suggest an excursion to visit the Pomposa Benedictine Abbey, a real jewel of Romanesque architecture, which stands alone in a land which in ancient times was surrounded by marshes. After this detour you go back to the coast and go through the Lidi di Comacchio, later passing through the picturesque centre of Porto Garibaldi, to then pedal to the splendid Comacchio. In summer in the beach towns you can sense the holiday atmosphere, while in autumn, when a light fog embraces the numerous churches and old palaces, the historical centre fascinates the tourists. 44 Lido di Volano Lido delle Nazioni Lido di Pomposa Lido degli Scacchi & & & & & From the Goro inlet and the thousand year old Pomposa abbey to the Comacchio coast with its famous beaches & & Porto Garibaldi Lido degli Estensi Laguna di Comacchio ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Goro Arrival: Comacchio Length: 32 km Conditions:easy route, on secondary roads and embankments mostly asphalted, some stretches with heavier traffic USEFUL ADDRESSES IAT Tourist Office Goro, via Cavicchini 13, tel. +39 0533 995030 [email protected] IAT Tourist Office Codigoro, via Pomposa Centro 1, Pomposa tel. +39 0533 719110, [email protected] IAT Tourist Office Comacchio, via Agatopisto 3 tel. +39 0533 314154 [email protected] www.turismocomacchio.it Bike hire: see the website www.ferrataterraeacqua.it 3 1 Comacchio, sunset in the lagoon 3 Pomposa Abbey 2 Lido di Comacchio, beach 4 Comacchio, the Marinating Production TRAVELLERS’ DIARY The cycling tourist indications are good and lead you from Goro to Comacchio. From the old fishing village, today a modern port, with a large fleet of fishing boats, and which overlooks the wide half-moon shaped inlet between the sea and the lagoon, you ride on a path which is higher than the sea. An original cycling path gets you through the Bosco della Mesola Nature Reserve, where a precious colony of deer from the Pianura Padana lives undisturbed. Amidst the thick Mediterranean vegetation you can glimpse deer, badgers, a varied avifauna and the rare marsh tortoise. 1 2 4 5 During this stage the route has been obtained from ancient dunes so for this reason it has been left as a dirt track. In some short stretches it might be more comfortable to get off your bike. At the Taglio della Falce, you reach the Canneviè-Porticino valley oasis, where a nature route leads you to the casoni and the typical working area, a fishing system similar to a maze made of reeds and trellis. Now, in the distance, to the right you can see the long narrow shape of the beautiful Romanesque bell-tower of the Pomposa Bendectine Abbey, spiritual and cultural centre placed along the 5 Historical nature route of the Comacchio Valleys ancient road of Popilia, which led from Rimini to Aquilea passing through Ravenna and Adria. We really advise you to make a detour (about 9 km each way) to visit the extraordinary basilica which contains a precious series of frescoes and a mosaic floor with precious marble inlay from between the VI and XII centuries. Returning to the coast road, which alternates between the woods, the sea and urban cycling paths, you go through Lido di Volano, Lido delle Nazioni, Lido di Pomposa, Lido degli Scacchi, Porto Garibaldi to then reach the beautiful Comacchio. 45 Third week | 6th day Among valleys, beaches and pine woods COMACCHIO & Laguna di Comacchio Reno Comacchio - Sant’Alberto - Ravenna Pedalling towards Ravenna, Byzantine art capital and Unesco heritage site & & Sant'Alberto & RAVENNA Casalborsetti Marina Romea Porto Corsini Marina di Ravenna & Punta Marina Terme & Lido Adriano Lido di Dante ROUTE INFORMATION From Comacchio you head towards the famous valleys, one of the vastest humid areas in Italy with its 15,000 hectares. You ride round the perimeter observing the various fishing casoni and the look-out towers for the herons, egrets, terns, black winged stilts and pink flamingos. You reach the Boscoforte peninsula – a narrow dune strip dating back to Etruscan times, about 6 kilometres long – which penetrates into the valleys: crossing the Reno river by ferry, you reach the Sant’Alberto Natural Museum, full of ornithological and entomological collections, where it is also possible to have a guided tour. You continue towards Mandriole to visit the former Guiccioli Farm, where Garibaldi sought refuge and Anita died. Once you reach the coast of Ravenna, you find an extraordinary natural ecosystem: the Nature Reserve of the Reno river, the Nature Reserve of the Coastal Dunes of Porto Corsini and the Pialassa della Baiona. The beaches have an atmosphere of relaxation and holidays. It is time to reach the splendid Ravenna, the city of mosaics, on the Unesco Heritage list: enjoy the Mausoleum of Galla Placida, the Arian Baptistery, the Neonian Baptistery, the Mausoleum of Theodoric, the Church of St. Vitale, the Basilica of Saint Apollinaire Nuovo, the Basilica of Saint Apollinaire in Classe and the Archiepiscopal Chapel. 46 Starting point: Comacchio Arrival: Ravenna Length: 65 km Conditions: easy route, mainly on secondary roads with light traffic, some stretches of dirt cycling paths in the Comacchio valley Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + ferry USEFUL ADDRESSES IAT Tourist Office Comacchio, via Agatopisto 3 tel. +39 0533 314154 [email protected] www.turismocomacchio.it IAT Tourist Office Casalborsetti, viale delle Viole 1 tel. +39 0544 444912, [email protected] IAT Tourist Office Porto Corsini via Lamone 18, tel. +39 0544 447688 [email protected] IAT Tourist Office Marina di Ravenna, piazzale Marinai d’Italia tel. +39 0544 531108 [email protected] IAT Tourist Office Punta Marina, via della Fontana 2 tel. +39 0544 437312 [email protected] IAT Tourist Office Ravenna, via Salara 8/12 tel. +39 0544 35404, [email protected] www.ravennaintorno.it 1 2 3 4 1 Commacchio, Treponti or Pallotta Bridge 3 Great crested grebe 2 Ravenna, beach 4 Ravenna - Sant’Alberto ferry on the river Reno TRAVELLERS’ DIARY The route starts from the seventeenth century monumental complex Trepponti, which with its five large stairways is the symbol of Comacchio, this lagoon city founded by the Etruscans, surrounded by water and canals which betray its origins as an island. You start off on a journey through the famous valleys and the just as important former salt mines, for many centuries another great source of earnings. Using a pleasant asphalted road, which becomes gravel, you ride along the outskirts of Valle Campo, Fattibello, Fossa di Porto, Lido di Magnavacca observing little bridges, drop nets, casoni, accompanied by the flight of thousands of birds: it seems like a place suspended in space and in time... Once you reach the Reno river, you can take a ferry which gets you to the other side: you enter the province of Ravenna and shortly afterwards you get to Sant’Alberto, where there is the Nature tour centre dedicated to the particularities of this valley and coastal area (pine woods, marshland, valleys, hygrophilous woodland...). Along the right bank of the reclamation of the river Reno canal you reach Mandriole, where there is the former Guiccioli Farmstead, with an interesting exhibition inside showing mementos from the Garibaldi period seeing as it was here in 1849 that Anita Garibaldi died. Then you head towards the beaches of Ravenna and splendid pine woods: you cross the river Reno Nature Reserve and then pass through Casalborsetti to go alongside the Porto Corsini Coastal Dune Nature 5 5 Ravenna, Mausoleum of Galla Placida Reserve and the Pialassa della Baiona, also in Porto Corsini but this time on the right. Then you pass through Marina di Ravenna and the Pineta di Ravenna National Nature Reserve until you reach Punta Marina di Ravenna, where you can continue with the alternative route towards the south which leads to the beaches of Adriano and Dante. The coveted goal of our journey remains the splendid Ravenna, which was the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, of the Ostrogothic Kingdom and the Byzantine Exarchate. The extraordinary traces of this great past, the famous Byzantine mosaics are in front of us and we must enjoy them to the full, remembering all the beauty that we have come across along the Upper Adriatic cycling route. 47 Partners of the Interbike project Regionalni razvojni center Koper Centro regionale di sviluppo Capodistria Provincia di Venezia Provincia di Ferrara Provincia di Ravenna Provincia di Rovigo Provincia di Padova Provincia di Trieste Provincia di Gorizia Provincia di Udine Regione Autonoma Friuli Venezia Giulia GAL Venezia Orientale Delta 2000 GAL Polesine Delta del Po Občina Cerkno Občina Kranjska Gora Občina Kobarid Občina Brda Občina Miren-Kostanjevica Mestna občina Koper Comune città di Capodistria Občina Komen Razvojna agencija ROD Ajdovščina Posoški razvojni center RRA Severne Primorske Progetto INTERBIKE finanziato nell΄ambito del Programma per la Cooperazione Transfrontaliera Italia-Slovenia 2007-2013 dal Fondo europeo di sviluppo regionale e dai fondi nazionali. Projekt INTERBIKE sofinanciran v okviru Programa čezmejnega sodelovanja Slovenija-Italija 2007-2013 iz sredstev Evropskega sklada za regionalni razvoj in nacionalnih sredstev. INTERBIKE project funded under Program for Cross-Border Cooperation Italy-Slovenia 2007-2013, by the European Regional Development Fund and national funds.