Part 2

Transcription

Part 2

Horological
Times
TM
ADVANCING THE ART, SCIENCE & BUSINESS OF HOROLOGY
June 2013
AMERICAN WATCHMAKERSCLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE
Part 2: Platform Escapement Bushing Replacement
STUDENT NOTEBOOK: Flying Carrousel Tourbillon
TOM’S TIPS: Delta: What Does It Really Mean?
PART 6: Clockmaking—The Tools
Space Age Cleaning is Here!
in this
Elma introduces innovative watch cleaning machines
with more cleaning efficiency and greater safety
VOLUME 39, NUMBER 6, June 2013
ELMASOLVEX VA Single-Chamber Ultrasonic
Vacuum Technology for more efficient cleaning
Multi-frequency ultrasound is adjustable for delicate parts
Place parts basket in the chamber: automatic pumping of solu

tions, ultrasonic cleaning, draining, drying; all under vacuum
New vacuum drying system uses warm, filtered, clean air
Vacuum technology removes gas bubbles during ultrasound,
allowing cleaning and rinsing to reach all surfaces
TÜV-certified to be explosion protected
Controlled exhaust system vents fumes to outside through two
provided 16.5 feet long venting hoses
Purchase optional filtration system to capture solvent vapors for
units that can’t be exhausted outside
VIB-VA
ElmaSolvex with 64mm stainless steel baskets
VIB-1055836 Optional: 80mm stainless steel baskets
VIB-1055837 Optional: 80mm stainless steel baskets white-coated with Rilsan
See video on the Elmasolvex VA
http://youtu.be/4F67g_F_L14
ELMASOLVEX RM AUTOMATIC
4-Chamber Technology—Replaces 3-jar RM90
One cleaning, three rinsing and one drying chamber
Use the standard cleaning program or select options to
vary time in the jar, basket speed, spin off speed and
time, plus select rotation and/or vibration cleaning
Optional controlled exhaust system available
Official Publication of the American
Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES
American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute (AWCI)
701 Enterprise Drive
Harrison, OH 45030
866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)
or 513-367-9800
Fax 513-367-1414
[email protected] • www.awci.com
www.facebook.com/MyAWCI
Keith M. Rosser
Interim Executive Director
Ext. 310 [email protected]
Thomas D. Schomaker, CMW21
Watchmaking Instructor/
Certification Coordinator
Daniela Ott
Education & Certification Coordinator
Dana Boll
Creative Director, Books and
Magazine
Kathy Ortt, Donna Poehner
Editors
Betsy Young
Marketing Director
Maureen Seals
Membership Coordinator &
Technical Support
ELMASOLVEX SE MANUAL
4-Chamber Technology—Replaces 3-jar Super-Elite
Four cleaning chambers and one drying chamber
Manual operation with improved mechanics for moving baskets
from jar to jar
Rotates the parts basket in one direction
Easy-to-service design
Optional controlled exhaust system available
Available July
Call for more information and prices
Jules Borel & Co.
1110 Grand Boulevard n Kansas City, Missouri 64106
Phone 800-776-6858 n Fax 800-776-6862 n julesborel.com
issue
Horological Times
Advisory Committee
Jordan Ficklin, CW21 : Chairman
Ron Iverson, CMC
Karel Ebenstreit, CMW, CC21
David Fahrenholz
Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW
Robert D. Porter, CMW
Ron Landberg, CW21
David Arnold, CMC
features
awci news
Student Notebook:
The Flying Carrousel
Tourbillon
By Hans Schwarz
page 8
President’s Message
By Manuel Yazijian,
CMW21
page 5
Tom’s Tips
By Tom Schomaker,
CMW21
page 16
Glass Movement Covers
Available Again
By Jack Kurdzionak,
CW21, FAWCI
page 17
technical
discussions
Clockmaking—The Tools,
Part 6: Making a Clock
Movement Post
By Laurie Penman
page 18
Platform
Escapement Bushing
Replacement, Part 2
By Dale LaDue, CMW21
page 26
Book Review
The Gruen Watch
Repairer’s Reference,
Compiled by
Mike Barnett
Review
By David Fahrenholz
page 31
Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written permission
from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright
©2013 by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute.
Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and
copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute,
701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price
for the public is $169.00 per year ($14.00 per copy). Members
subscription is $99.00 which is included with annual dues of $169.00.
Periodicals postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries.
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, 701 Enterprise
Drive, Harrison, OH 45030
Horological Times June 2013
Interim Executive
Director’s Message
By Keith Rosser,
page 7
Affiliate Chapters
page 34-37
Transitional Times for
AWCI
By Henry Kessler,
AWCI Treasurer
page 38
www.facebook.com/MyAWCI
Shin created this watch
during his first year as a
student in the School of
Watchmaking at Oklahoma
State University Institute of
Technology. Constructed
as part of the school watch
project, Mr. Shin was able
to bring his artistry and
passion together with
the technical skills and
competencies gained and
honed during the program.
See page 25.
classifieds
Member Pespective
By Jack Kurdzionak
page 42
Buy, Sell, Trade, and
Employment Opportunities
page 40-41
industry
news
Advertisers’ Index
page 43
Chelsea Clock Creates
“Seafarer” Trophy
page 32
trending 2013
The Weekend Watch
page 33
education &
certification
AWCI Course and
Exam Schedule
page 6
LIKE US ON FACEBOOK!
COVER IMAGE: Joe
Industry Advisory Board
Members
page 43
Horological Times
Advertising Policy &
Editorial Policy
The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising
copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the
publisher’s standards. The publisher may, at the publisher’s
sole discretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees
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will also accept responsibility for any claims or suits arising
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may also be used without permission expressly sought,
or payment made, on www.awci.com or the American
Watchmakers-Clockmakers Facebook page.
Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, but
reflect the opinions of the authors only and do not represent the views of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers
Institute (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. AWCI
reserves the right to edit all submitted materials and is
under no obligation to accept any submitted materials for
publication. The appearance, reference, or advertisement
of any product or service in this publication shall not be
deemed an endorsement of such products, methods or
services by AWCI, its directors, officers or employees.
3
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a message from the
president
MANUEL YAZIJIAN, CMW21
Dear AWCI Members,
This month, we have an important
message from Keith Rosser in
his Executive Director’s column
as well as an explanation of the
audit report from our treasurer,
Henry Kessler. Please look for
their columns on pages 7 and
38 respectively. For a historical
view on the Perpetuation Fund,
please see Jack Kurdzionak’s
detailed article on page 42.
Manuel Yazijian
[email protected]
Your board members and most notably the Executive
Committee, have been tirelessly working hard, especially
for the past six months, to help with the improvement
process for AWCI. While we are a not-for-profit
organization, many of our board members are wearing
multiple hats by serving on several committees as well
as being on the Board of Directors by volunteering
their precious personal time at a professional level.
My special thanks to Wes Grau, Henry Kessler, David
Douglas, Jordan Ficklin, Paul Wadsworth, and Terry
Kurdzionak. Also, thank you to all the AWCI staff
for your continued resilience during this period of
improvement.
To volunteer means to work for free. I encourage all
of you reading this message to dedicate at least four
hours every day for a minimum of one year doing
something you are truly passionate about for the
collective good, and not think about yourself or your
family. This team of volunteers has truly come through
with their promise to serve, and I am glad to have them
all on my team. The work is not over yet; we still have
much to accomplish.
We welcome Terry Kurdzionak as our new Secretary
on the Executive Committee; I look forward to working
with her. I would like thank David Douglas for serving
as Secretary, and I am glad he decided to stay on the
Board of Directors to complete his term.
Technical Assistance and Manuals
As a reminder to our members, this year we are not
having an annual convention as we’ve had in the past;
however, as per our constitution and bylaws, we will have
a business meeting on September 26, 27 and 28, 2013.
The exact location will be announced in a subsequent
publication. As members, you are welcome to attend;
however, there will be neither educational seminars
nor a trade fair. We will have an annual convention in
2014 as we’ve had traditionally, with date and location
to be determined.
In closing this month’s message, it would help us all
to remember the road to change and improvement
is not always smooth. By the time we reach the clear
and easy path, inevitably we’ve gone through some
rough and frightful terrain consisting of rocky and
thorny trails. We see a lot, some not always pleasant,
but this is the reality of life; plus cannot exist without
minus; day cannot exist without night; clean cannot
exist without the soiled; and good cannot exist without
the bad, for such is the world we live in. We can only
strive to maintain the balance between these two
forces and conditions.
The Chinese call this yin and yang, but for us in
horology and those of you closely familiar with the
lever escapement, you may already be aware of the
“natural escapement error.” Surprisingly though,
through the careful designing by the engineer, these
errors cancel out each other therefore resulting in
a timepiece that is isochronous. Upon studying it in
depth, one is surprised how it even manages to keep
accurate time. Some consider this to be one of the
beautiful mysteries that are there for all to see, yet
only a few can observe.
Thank you all for your patience during our improvement
process.
In the meantime, keep your skills honed, your standards
very high, your attitude professional, your tools and
equipment in great condition, and your workshops
clean and organized; perhaps you might want to invite
and inspire the future generation watchmakers and
clockmakers.
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
701 Enterprise Drive | Harrison, OH | 45030-1696 | USA
Visit AWCI.com or call 866-367-AWCI to join!
5
education &
certification
a message from the interim
executive director
Keith Rosser
Dear AWCI Members,
JULY
Servicing & Adjusting the Swiss Lever
Escapement July 22-26 | 5 CEUs
Students will gain a good theoretical
understanding to evaluate the condition
of the lever escapement and proceed
with the verification and analysis of the
escapement functions. Class covers:
• All the fundamentals of the proper
functioning of the lever escapement
• How to make all the adjustments with
ease and confidence
• How to understand the effects of
adjustments on timing
• The proper lubrication methods and the
effect of lubrication on timing and overall
performance
AUGUST
AWCI Advanced 21 – Caliber 3035
Aug 19-23 | 5 CEUs | Prerequisite: CW21
and CMW21s
Rolex movement caliber 3035 is found
in the majority of Rolex Oyster watches
manufactured between 1977 and 1988 and
has become one of the most common
Rolex calibers being serviced today. When
compared to its predecessor (1500 series),
caliber 3035 represents a significant
departure as it introduced several design
innovations for the modern mechanical
movement. In order to effectively
comprehend the unique characteristics
of this timepiece, a high standard of
training that is focused on brand specific
knowledge is being provided through the
generosity and collaborative efforts of our
industry members. Class includes:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Identifying counterfeits
Knowledge of the numbering system
Pre-cleaning procedures
Movement service
The regulating system
The automatic system
The calendar system
Polishing
Special casing requirements
Water testing
AWCI ACADEMY OF WATCHMAKING 2013 COURSES
Modern Mechanical Chronographs,
Servicing & Adjusting 7750/7751
August 26-30 | 5 CEUs
Students will learn all the basics of the
modern mechanical chronographs that
are most prevalent on today’s market as
well as a profound understanding of how
chronograph watches operate including:
• The definitions and a brief history of the
mechanical chronograph and its various
components
• About the basic features
• About its basic functions
• The basic differences between column
wheel & cam chronographs
• Systematic approach of disassembly &
problem diagnosis
• Modern assembly procedures
• Preparing barrel & winding mainspring
• All chronograph adjustments
• Modern oiling procedures
• Etachron adjusting procedures
• Timing & Adjustments
• Fitting hands on chronograph watches
• Dialing & Casing
SEPTEMBER
Modern Automatic Watches
Sept 9-13 | 5 CEUs
Students will learn all the fundamentals
of modern mechanical automatic watch
repair that are most prevalent today plus
how to perform the various diagnostics
in evaluating the condition of the various
components, cleaning, assembling,
adjustments, dialing and casing. Class
covers:
• The most common differences between
manual wind and automatic watches
• Detailed discussion of all components
• Endshakes and tolerances
• Servicing, including up-to-date methods
of barrel setup
• Practical, theory & math exercises
• Advanced cleaning procedures including
pre-cleaning
• New methods of lubricating modern
For additional details about specific courses in
movements including escapement
comprehensive syllabi form, including complete
• Proper use of “epilame”
tool list, visit: http://www.awci.com/education• Etachron adjustment procedure
certification/education2/list-of-continuing-education- • Timing adjustments and analysis
courses/. 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303
6
Introduction to Basic Quartz Watch &
Quartz Chronograph Repair
Sept 30-Oct 4 | 5 CEUs
Students learn all the fundamentals of
modern basic quartz watch repair and
quartz chronographs that are prevalent
today as well as how to perform the
various important electronic tests, e.g.,
current consumption, coil resistance,
lower working voltage, fault finding, etc.,
including:
• Historical background of quartz watches
• Discussion of all the components in detail
and their purpose
• Measurement points for analog quartz
watches
• Modern cleaning procedures
• Lubricants for 21st century watchmaking
• Servicing of both movements
• Witschi Q-Test 6000 - Testing
parameters and troubleshooting quartz
watches
Sept 16-20 | 5 CEUs | Prerequisite: CW21
and CMW21s
OCTOBER
Oct 14-18 | 5 CEUs | Prerequisite: CW21
and CMW21s
Polishing & Refinishing
Oct 11-15 | 5 CEUs
First of all, I want to thank each
and every one of our members
for their patience during what
has been a very difficult and
challenging transition period.
We still have quite a long way
to go to properly serve our
constituents, but I am confident
that we are on the right path.
The ballots for this year’s election were recently mailed.
I encourage you to take the time to carefully read what
each candidate has written in response to the common
question, “As a board member, what will you do to be
a responsible leader and exercise fiscal responsibility?”
Then you should mark your ballot with one, two, or
three candidates, but not more than three.
I also encourage you to complete the short five-question
survey on the back of the ballot. We are trying to
establish a baseline evaluation of the organization so
that we can measure how we improve going forward.
The ballot must be returned and postmarked on or
before July 3, 2013, in the envelope provided to be
eligible. They are to be returned directly to our CPAs,
Burke and Schindler at 901 Adams Crossing, Cincinnati,
OH 45202.
The audited financial statements and report for fiscal
year 2011-2012 were issued in May. We are now in full
compliance with the bank covenants. The report has
been posted to our website along with the narrative
explaining the year-to-year changes and remedial
actions taken to date. Additional actions are underway
to help improve our financial performance.
When I joined AWCI at the beginning of February, we
were seven months behind in recording the financial
transactions. Today, approximately four months later,
we are up to date with all the transactions! Therefore,
in four months we processed 11 months’ worth of
transactions, are current, and did so with fewer resources
than the organization had in January.
The fiscal year 2013-2014 business plan and preliminary
budget were submitted to the Executive Committee
and the Finance Committee. They will be reviewing,
discussing, and strategically analyzing them to help
us better serve our constituents. Personally, I believe
elaborate, well-designed plans can be drawn up, placed
on the walls in a boardroom, and communicated for the
world to see. However, it is the consistent and timely
team execution of the agreed-upon plan that is the
critical key to success. Together we can make AWCI
an organization to be proud of and one that current
as well as future generations want to be a part of. That
is, an organization that our children and our children’s
children will be thankful that this generation created
and left for them.
In 2013 there have been a lot of distractions for our
organization. I believe now is the time to put the
distractions, dissension, and unnecessary noise behind
us. We need to work together to achieve a “Blue
Ocean” type of success and consider the unlimited
possibilities that are ahead of us.
See description below.
NOVEMBER
Polishing & Refinishing
November 11-15 | 5 CEUs
Polishing a watch today requires many
skills. Today’s consumer has high
expectations concerning the quality of the
watch repair, including the refinishing of
the case and bracelet. Class covers:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Casing information
Case and bracelet refinishing
Metallurgy
Lathe finishes
Use of modern variable speed polishers
Modern polishing techniques ensuring
case shape integrity
• Water resistant testing
7
Tool List
student notebook
Hans Schwarz
The Flying Carrousel
Tourbillon
Editor’s Note: The following article is a submission from
a student at the North Seattle Community College’s
Watch Technology Institute. This article represents
a student-directed project not contained within the
normal curriculum of WTI. Students at WTI are taught
both traditional and modern watch repair techniques to
help them meet the standards and practices required for
21st-century watchmaking. Instructors also allow students
who complete their ordinary course work the freedom
to experiment, to explore, and to take on additional
projects that will help further their growth.
S
everal of my classmates were pursuing a variety
of senior-year projects here at the Watch Technology Institute in Seattle, and so I sought to join in with
a project of my own.
The opportunity to work with knowledgeable instructors
in a facility with a wide array of tools would not present
itself again in the foreseeable future. I decided to focus
my project on experimenting with the tourbillon.
Without knowing what type of repair work would come
my way after graduation, it was difficult to decide on
which tools to own for all possible eventualities. The
carrousel project would be the decision maker. I set
out to purchase all the tools needed in making and
assembling its parts. (See tool list in sidebar.) There
Cost: about $5,000
was the distinct possibility that the carrousel would
not be a success, but then at least I would own a nice,
comprehensive set of tools.
As a designer who came to watchmaking from a
previous career in the aeronautics industry, I set out
to experiment with tourbillons without relying on
conventional wisdom or watchmaking tradition. As an
inventor, I was prepared to test multiple ideas, knowing
that some of them might not succeed. Traditional
tourbillons rely upon extremely light and small cages
to house the escapement. With their goals to be
extremely accurate timekeepers, the lightweight
cage is essential. Much time and effort is expended in
creating the ultralight cage, and the skills required to
manufacture these precise cages contribute to their
high costs. I set out with a completely different set
of goals. I set out to challenge the necessity of the
lightweight cage.
Here is the list
of the tools needed
for the carrousel.
Quite a few were
old and rusty.
I enjoyed cleaning
them up and giving
them new life.
Hans Schwarz
Used 8mm Moseley Lathe
Used Set of 8mm Collets
Used HR Cross Slide
New Lathe Milling Attachment
Used Step Chucks 1-5
Used Faceplate
Used 3-Jaw Chuck
Used Moseley Drilling Tailstock
New Centering Scope
NOS Miniature Metric Tap and Die Set
New Plug Pin Gage Set
Used Dumore Sensitive Drill Press
Used Jacot Tool
Used Seitz Jewelling Kit
New Staking Set
Used Depthing Tool
New Miniature Micrometer
Assorted New Diamond Stones/Grinding
Wheels
Used Vise
Used L&R Cleaning Machine
Used Watch Demagnetizer
Used Mainspring Winders
Used Microscope
New Timing Machine
3
2
2. A depthing tool was used to confirm
the compatibility of the two new wheel/
pinion pairs.
1
1. The ETA 6498 and 2550 movements are shown prior to modification.
3. The fully modified 6498 mainplate is shown.
The carrousel support has been jeweled and riveted
in three places to the mainplate.
8
9
student notebook
5
4
6
4. The escape wheel was the
most difficult part to fabricate
and assemble. Several failed attempts were made to turn a staff
and stake the escape wheel. An
M.50 threaded connection was
the one that worked. Note the
hex nut and washer clamping
wheel to shouldered staff.
5. The partially assembled
“Bumblebee.” The drive pinion
for carrousel escape wheel has
been press-fitted.
6. The partially assembled
carrousel watch is checked for
proper clearances and jewel
adjustment.
7. The bridge side of the fully
assembled carrousel watch.
The train bridge was cut back
to allow for the new carrousel
bridge. The train bridge required
the addition of a new second
steady pin and a new bridge
screw location.
8. The dial side of the fully
assembled carrousel watch
movement. Bumblebee ready
for first flight!
9. CAD software was used to lay
out the parts.
10. Closeup of the installed
Bumblebee.
Bridge Side
Bumblebee & 2550
Bumblebee Dial Side
8
Two watch movements were selected from which to
derive my tourbillon movement. For the base movement
I chose one of the largest movements in production
today, the ETA 6498. For economic reasons I chose
a Chinese replica of the 6498 for the prototype. The
escapement parts were taken out of an ETA 2550
ladies’ automatic movement. The escapement from
this smaller caliber could be fully contained within a
carrousel in the area allotted for the balance wheel
in the 6498. Parts were chosen from a vintage 2550
in working condition. Ultimately, the engineer in me
asked: Why make a part when you can purchase it
far cheaper?
Adapting the two movements was surprisingly simple.
A total of 21 parts were required. Ten were new and
11 were modifications of existing parts. Tasks ranged
from being as simple as enlarging the hole in a wheel,
to more involved measures such as mounting the 2550
mainplate onto a faceplate in creation of the carrousel.
(See definition on page 13.) I laid out the design using
a CAD drawing package.
Rather than create working drawings for each part,
as specific dimensions were needed, the CAD model
was interrogated. As I did, one might draw all the parts
in a complicated assembly all in one CAD document.
At this point, traditionally, you separately dimension
one drawing for each part for the manufacturer to
build from. With computers we can give the shop
electronic access to this complex CAD document,
and they can fabricate the parts by analyzing the
large file, “interrogating” it for whatever dimensions
they feel they need. A function in the CAD software
allows analyzing relative distances and angles between
geometrical elements of the drawing. The carrousel
bridge was created by tracing the shape of a full-size
printout onto a piece of scrap brass.
7
Dial Side
The watch would need to be easily modified, as the
long-term goal of the project was, in fact, to test
unconventional modifications to the tourbillon system.
Due to financial and time constraints, the watch would
need to use mostly purchased parts. The watch should
fit within the physical constraints of an existing watch
caliber, which would force me to practice and gain
greater proficiency in micromechanics and making
tiny parts. Another imposed challenge was that it drive
a watch movement that kept accurate time and that
this watch movement fit into an existing watch case
with dial and hands.
9
10
10
Watch timing instrument
for mechanical watches
Chrono Touch
The latest generation of watch testers. It
combines Swiss precision with simple
operation via a touchscreen and a crystalclear, high-resolution color display.
Key features:
• Automatic detection of beat number
• All key values for the watch are displayed:
rate, amplitude and beat error
• Simple operation via touchscreen
• Measurement time and lift angle can be
freely selected
• Graphic display of beat noise of watch
(oscillogram)
• Printout of watch values with company,
customer and watch details
• Ethernet interface for network connection
• Extremely cost effective
Greiner Vibrograf
Greiner Vibrograf AG, 4900 Langenthal, Switzerland
[email protected], www.greinervibrograf.ch
11
lay greiner ins 13 awci-ht 3,5x9,5inch 1a.indd 2
16.04.13 10:28
student notebook
Hans Schwarz
11. The carrousel drive
wheel is threaded onto
the carrousel axle and left
with a small amount of
endshake. The slot in the
wheel hub is lined up with
the hole in the axle and
pinned with a brass taper
pin (not shown).
15
15. The carrousel
fixed wheel fits over
the carrousel axle.
A pin in the jeweled
carrousel support
keeps the wheel
from rotating.
14
12. The carrousel axle
is fastened to the 2550
mainplate using one custom-made screw and two
ETA 2550 bridge screws.
There is barely space for
three newly tapped holes.
14. The 6498 escape wheel has been removed.
The 6498 escape wheel staff was salvaged and
turned down to allow the carrousel drive wheel
pinion to be press-fitted into place.
11
Two new wheel/pinion combinations were required by
the design. Vintage pocketwatch gears were examined
and the best combinations selected. Gear selection was
the most tedious of all the tasks and yet, as it turned
out, the most critical components for success. I should
have chosen the escape wheel and fixed wheel pair
with more emphasis on the meshing characteristics of
the gears. An escape wheel pinion and fourth wheel
pinion pair from the same watch would have provided
excellent meshing, assuming you could find a fourth
wheel with the correct diameter.
The two new pinions were made from existing wheel
staffs. After normalizing, the pinion was created by
“bologna slicing” it off the wheel staff. If you want a
part in the shape of an angle or an I-beam, for example,
it is far cheaper to cut it or “bologna slice” it, from
an extruded length of the desired shape, rather than
machine your part out of a solid block. I had a long
length of the pinion shape in the form of a staff. I only
needed some of it so I sawed off what I wanted, much
as you would a hunk of bologna at the deli. The parts
were completed by drilling the center holes for press
fitting.
Jewels are much harder to manufacture than pivots.
Parts should be designed around available jewel sizes.
Although they appear in catalogues, many of the jewel
sizes I ordered were not available and could not be
back-ordered. Jules Borel was my source for Seitz
jewels (shown in tabular form on pages 90-91 of their
old catalogue). I checked other sources, but if Jules
Borel didn’t stock a specific listed jewel, then no one
12
The rivets were custom made from brass stock using
standard ratios. Make the head diameter equal to twice
the shank diameter. Make the length of the rivet such
that the tail shows one-and-one-half times the shank
diameter protrusion for upsetting.
12
13
13. The Bumblebee shown from above.
else did either. Have your jewels in hand before you
start cutting parts!
Riveting was fun and I was very satisfied with the results.
The carrousel support was riveted in three places to
the mainplate. I counterbored the mainplate to bury
the rivet tails. The rivet heads were countersunk, and
you can see one of them in the bridge side picture.
the same reason. Some additional lessons I learned
include: Don’t tap a material thickness much greater
than about one times the major thread diameter.
Counterbore the thickness if required. It has been
pointed out that threads inside crowns are often three
to four times the diameter of the stem. The thickness
of the balance rim is probably twice the diameter of
the balance screw thread. However, I am baffled as
to how those parts are made. Using the hand tools
available to me, I would not be able to cut these threads
without increasing the tap hole commeasurable with
the increase in thread depth.
The general rule for internal threads is to drill the hole
Trial and error was the methodology I used for drilling
to 80% of the major thread diameter. With smaller
and tapping very small holes. I have a drill chart created
thread, the hole may need to be slightly larger. The
in the 1940s. Drill 80 (.343mm) is the smallest listed
recommended tap hole diameter for M.70 would be
size and for good reason. The required skill level for
0.56. I typically would round up to the nearest drill
successful hole drilling increases dramatically after
bit size, which in my case was 0.60mm. You can’t
going past drill 75 or thereabouts. During my learning
round down because the tap would become jammed
phase, I averaged one broken drill bit for every two
with swarth and damage the threads. The process of
holes drilled. (You can boil out a broken bit embedded
rounding up results in partially formed but workable
in brass with one teaspoon of alum dissolved in two
threads.
cups of water.) Higher-quality drill bits should increase
the likelihood of successfully drilling holes, but they
Occasionally you come across a movement where it
can cost up to $15 each. I mostly
appears that there was not enough
used drill bits costing 85 cents each.
emphasis placed on ease of disassembly,
After many unsuccessful attempts to
reparability, and reassembly. I must
Definition
enlarge the hole in the 2550 escape
admit that I spent no effort in this
wheel to .50mm, I settled on the carrousel tourbillon
regard with the carrousel watch. After
following foolproof method. Super
encountering a more-than-expected
glue the wheel onto a brass plate This now widely used term was number of three-handed operations, I
and mount the plate in a faceplate. introduced by Blancpain to describe relearned the importance of designing
Center the existing hole in the wheel an otherwise conventional one- with the watchmaker in mind.
and, using a tungsten vanadium drill minute tourbillon in which the axis
bit, gently move it through the wheel of the balance was offset from the I’d like to give credit to my instructors
while slowly turning the faceplate
Elaine Rolf and Erik Gresseth for
axis of the tourbillon carriage, giving
by hand. Immersion in acetone will
their help and their dedication to
the tourbillon a more carrousel-like
quickly and easily dissolve the glue.
teaching the skills necessary for proper
High-quality taps for threads below appearance.
watchmaking and for allowing me the
about M.70mm are necessary for
freedom to explore the unconventional
13
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The main purpose of a NAIOSW Instructor is to provide proper training in both
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student notebook
Hans Schwarz
techniques employed in this project. My design background
comes out of the aircraft industry, so true watchdesign aficionados may find the rough nature of the
design disconcerting. Airplane mechanical design is
highly practical with little or no consideration given to
aesthetics. Some find beauty in this type of functional
design, and I hope to have captured that here.
which may result in excessive wear at the train pivots.
Dynamic loads caused by shock on the carrousel’s
jeweled bearings have not been addressed. There is
much to keep me busy in the future.
In conclusion, I must answer the question as to whether
or not this project was a success. In its present state, the
watch will not be winning any chronometer competitions
but that was never the intended purpose of my project.
I did learn many things about watch design, and I was
able to practice micromechanics techniques that will
serve me in my career as a watchmaker. I was able to
build a tourbillon cage that would operate in the watch,
and it will serve to test ideas I have for compensating
for the heavy weight of the cage. t
The “Bumblebee,” as I have nicknamed it, should
have been too heavy and I fully did not expect the
carrousel to run. But, to my amazement, it did run, and
the timing machine has calculated amplitudes as high
as 200 degrees with the existing 6498 mainspring
installed. The continuing goal will be to increase this
amplitude and to turn this heavy carrousel system
into an acceptable timekeeper. There will be many
obstacles to overcome in this regard.
Check out the video on YouTube
Some method of poising the carrousel
will have to be fashioned. The power
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reserve will have to be brought up to an
acceptable level. The mainspring may
watch?v=hGukOFe5I3A
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14
CALL 1.800.487.0408
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15
Tom’s Tips
Tom’s
Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI
#3 in a series
What is delta and what does it really mean?
Delta is the maximum deviation in rates in either full-wind, half-wind, or both.
Depending on the watch manufacturer, the delta value
given can be derived from three different sets of criteria.
Rolex, for example, uses both “less 24 hours” rates
(basically half-wind) and “full-wind rates” in order to
determine what they call their first criterion (the delta).
This value establishes at least two goals of which I am
aware. First, it gives us a standard in order to determine
if the watch is functioning correctly within the allowable
tolerances. If it is, we are only then permitted to move
on to the average rate adjustment, which is the second
criterion. These checks and balances are put into place
in order to provide the quality outcome that a Rolex is
easily capable of, and it prevents us from continuing to
try to adjust a watch that has some other problem(s)
that may have been overlooked.
The second reality associated with delta is this: If you
have a very low delta value, your customer satisfaction
will be very high. What delta really means to your
customer is this: It doesn’t matter if they wear their
watch on the right wrist or the left, if they sleep in it
or not, or if they lay it down the “wrong way” at night.
It doesn’t matter, because the watch will only vary in
timekeeping as much as the delta value (and often
even less). So knowing the delta and having a low
delta is a very desirably thing.
How about Omega? Omega uses a predetermined
value for half-wind (Delta 24h) and a separate value
for full-wind (Delta 0 h). These exact numbers are
located in their Working Instructions #5. This allows
the watchmaker to test the quality of the repair before
it is finished and sent out to the customer. The same
applies as above; a very low delta often keeps even
the pickiest customer satisfied.
How about ETA products? Most of the time you will
find the value tolerances in the factory information
guides and not the standard tech guides as in the other
two mentioned brands. They usually have a full-wind
delta (Delta 0 h) value only.
Keep in mind that some of these values can easily be
obtained with proper service and adjustment, but with
the larger delta values, we must consider the possibility
that something has been overlooked.
TS-ANALYZER-TWIN
SCREEN SHOT
Rate ▪ Amplitude ▪ Beat Error
Jules Borel & Co.
Kansas City, MO
julesborel.com
800-776-6858
Shows
6 Watch Positions
Summary Results Graph
Average: Rate & Amplitude
Delta: Rate & Amplitude
To download a copy, go to www.awci.com home page and click on Tom’s Tips
Tom Schomaker, CMW21, is the watchmaking instructor for the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI). He has received brand-specific training in the U.S. and Switzerland and has performed after-sales service for a Swiss manufacturer. AWCI is the U.S. trade association for watch repair and clock
repair professionals. We provide numerous services for industry and host the nation’s largest directory of watch and clock repair resources at www.awci.com
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute 866-367-2924 © AWCI 2013. 16
from the
workshop
Glass Movement
Covers Available Again
W
atchmakers need to cover any exposed watch
movements or parts they leave unattended on
the bench. In the past, we used small, molded-glass
movement covers fitted with a handle for ease of lifting and moving. Those old glass movement covers are
unforgiving because they shatter every time someone
drops one. At one time, that was no problem. A phone
call or post card to Swartchild (see the photo of one
from the 1935 Swartchild catalog at right) would bring
a replacement in the mail. Glass movement covers are
now like many other supplies we were able to purchase
in past years. That is, they are no longer available. The
only ones now available are made of clear plastic. Plastic does the job, but it has a number of drawbacks.
It scratches easily and electrostatically attracts dust.
After a while, plastic becomes translucent rather than
transparent. The more one wipes them clean, the less
clear they become. Plastic covers just cannot duplicate
the clean, clear appearance and the feel of glass movement covers. I have priced used glass covers in watch
supply shops in Switzerland only to find them chipped
or cracked. Even damaged, the Swiss vendor was asking as much as $50 for those damaged ones.
How could I find a glass movement cover without paying
$50 for a damaged used one? I found the answer to
my question in Walmart’s housewares department:
Pyrex 8-Piece 1-Cup Storage Cups. A set of four with
matching plastic lids sells for about $10. Invert them
on the bench and they make a neat cover for any work
that requires protection from dust. The lack of a handle
does make it difficult to lift them off the bench, but
that drawback is easy to overcome. Before leaving
Walmart, go to the cabinet-hardware department
and locate round cabinet knobs with cylindrical bases
(Walmart’s term), which sell for about two dollars each.
You can also find the cups and knobs in a hardware
store. You will need four of them. If you do not have
some two-part, five-minute curing epoxy, buy some
and you will then have everything needed to make
four glass movement covers.
Discard the plastic lids and wash the four Pyrex cups
and the four drawer knobs. After drying the cups and
knobs, invert the four cups on a worktable. Mix the
epoxy and cement a knob to the base of each cup. You
will have a couple of minutes to position the knob in
Glass movement cover made from Pyrex bowl.
the center of the cup’s base. Exact positioning is not
critical; close enough is good enough. Allow the epoxy
to set for a few hours in order to achieve maximum
strength. They will be ready to use and will last a long
time. I made a set of these several years ago. They
are all in daily use and none have chipped nor broken,
even though I have dropped a few of them on the
floor. I wash them regularly with soap and water and
dry them with a lint-free towel. Epoxy bonds will fail
when exposed to heat, so avoid heated drying. If you
decide to make these, you will have spent less than
$20 for the knobs and cups, and have a nice-looking,
functional set of glass movement covers to protect
any work in progress on your bench.
6/2013
17
Laurie Penman
technical
technicaldiscussions
discussions
Part 6: Clockmaking—The Tools
FIG 06.19
Part 6
Making a Clock
Movement Post
P
reviously, in Part 5 of this series, I showed the making of a clock movement post using form tools and
pointed out that it could be done with a lathe as small
as a Sherline, although the width of the cutting edge
was reduced to about 20mm.
To continue for this month, the post still needs to be
drilled and tapped, and washers and old-style screws
made for it, Figure 06.17. The hole at one end can be
made when the form cutting has started. When it is
simply a plain bar of brass, it is not necessary to make
sure that the hole is dead true to the outside of the
bar. As long as it is “eyeable” (i.e., within 0.5mm), it will
not be noticed. Also, it does not locate anything; that
is done by the short turned spigot, which is machined
just before forming begins.
Drill the hole for the tapping size required, starting it
FIG 06.17
with a graver or a center drill. When the hole is drilled,
offer the tap up to the hole and either support it with
the tailstock drill chuck or use a center in the tailstock
to support it when the tap wrench has been fitted. If a
tap wrench is used, rest the handle on some solid part
of the machine and rotate the lathe chuck by hand,
Figure 06.18. In all probability the brass rod will slip in
the chuck after two or three turns. Don’t worry; enough
thread will have been cut to hold the tap upright in
FIG 06.18
FIG 06.21
FIG 06.20
a vise while the job is finished by hand. If the work
still slips, the tapping hole is too small and has left
too much work for the tool to manage. Use a slightly
larger drill bit and then put the rod back in the vise.
The existing thread should still hold the tap correctly.
Tapping the other end is trickier because the form work
has been completed, and tightening chuck jaws onto
the pillar will damage it. A split bush is needed with a
18
bore equal to the diameter of the parallel portion of the
pillar, and the outside diameter a couple of millimeters
larger than the bulges. Figure 06.19 shows a piece of
brass being drilled to meet this specification.
Bore and outside diameter should be machined without
moving them in the chuck so that they will be concentric.
Figure 06.20 shows the bush held in a vise and being
split by a hacksaw; Figure 06.21 shows the result.
19
Laurie Penman
technical discussions
FIG 05.07
FIG 06.23
FIG 06.22
Remember to scratch across the cut so that the pieces
can be properly assembled in use. The two halves need
to be held in a vise to tidy up the cut surfaces with a
file and have the fraze removed from inside and out.
In Figure 06.22, the pillar has been mounted in the
chuck for drilling and tapping. I photographed this with
the chuck running. You can see that the outline of the
form has been reproduced quite crisply, without the
significant fuzziness that would result if it was running
eccentrically. If the bush is made carefully with the
bore and outside diameters machined at the same
setting and the cut surfaces filed and accurately mated,
this is a very useful way of tackling the problem of
20
reaching over an obstacle, a fixed pinion for instance,
and holding the diameter that needs to be held true
to the axis of the lathe. It is easier to use, and more
robust than the lantern chuck that has to be used on
machines that have no three-jaw chuck or cannot fit
one that is large enough, which is a common problem
on basic watchmaker’s lathes.
FIG 06.24
Drilling, as I said earlier, should be started with a center
drill, Figure 06.23, to make sure that the twist drill that
follows is less likely to wander off center.
Keep twist drills sharp and properly ground so that
the point is truly on its center line. Unless you have
a dedicated drill sharpening device, small drills (less
than 1.5mm in dia.) are best replaced with new ones.
A lot of time can be wasted sharpening small drills.
The finished pillar, Figure 06.24, has been drilled and
tapped at both ends and polished. Use cotton gloves
to handle from now on.
21
Laurie Penman
Screws
Oil Blacking
There is an “antique” screw inside several modern
forms; it just needs to have the head re-formed. The
old screwed hole will need to be tapped to accept
a relatively modern screw that has a slightly larger
thread diameter, but this is rarely a problem. I have a
collection of differing taps: American Coarse, American
Fine, British Standard Fine (BSF), UNC, Whitworth,
British Association (BA), bicycle threads, motorcycle
threads and, for when the screw needs to be recut,
antique die plates. The thread cut by these 18th- and
19th-century tools is not very satisfactory. The best
ones are 19th century and have two holes drilled, one
on either side of the screwing hole to produce a cutting
edge. Earlier ones have none, and simply squeeze the
metal into a rough thread form. Screws made this way
often had square heads because the thread was made
on a length of rolled bar and cut off when finished.
The reason that I am talking about cutting a new
thread in the clock plate, or whatever, is that the main
cause of the problem is a worn or torn hole. Having
matched or tapped the hole to a modern screw thread,
The gas torch is not simply for soldering and silver
the head needs to be shaped to the form of the old
soldering; it can be used for coloring metals too. Oil
screw. I simply hold the new screw in the three-jaw
blacking is an alternative to bluing. It is a simple heat
chuck, Figure 06.25. I have never bothered to make
treatment, handsome, and it is rust resistant to a
a special holding jig for this; a file used sensitively
greater degree.
will not drag the screw out of the chuck. Even if the
thread has been shortened by sawing and the end
Do not handle the newly modified screw with bare
needs to be rounded over with a file, the work stays
hands, because any sort of grease may affect the finish.
firm enough with the head held in the chuck. Shorten
Prepare a small hearth, Figure 06.28; the honeycomb
the thread if necessary before re-forming the head,
slabs used in this figure are intended for a barbeque
so that it is not marked by the chuck jaws. In Figure
hearth. They are a bit brittle, but they do an excellent
06.26, the file is being used to shape the
job. Build the hearth on a piece of heathead into a short cylinder with a domed Editor’s Note: Think safety proof sheet to protect your bench. The
top. It is then polished with emery paper, first when using rotating honeycomb allows hot gas to pass through.
Figure 06.27. The slot is simply a saw cut, equipment and torches.
which for British clocks is made into a W e a r p r o t e c t i v e e y e Hold the screw with pliers that will not
vee with a slotting file, or for 19th-century gear. Avoid using gloves be used for their proper purpose, for
French and German clocks usually left or wearing rings, and tie the heat will destroy their temper, and
as a straight saw cut. I use a lathe chuck back long hair. Do not wear hold the head of the screw in the flame
held in the vise to present the screw for loose clothing while using until it is a dull red. Then dip it in oil and
cutting.
hold it in the oil for a short while. It has
rotating equipment.
FIG 06.25
FIG 06.28
FIG 06.26
22
FIG 06.27
23
Cover Movement
OSUIT School of Watchmaking
Tampa, FL
J
oe Shin created this watch during his first
year as a student in the School of Watchmaking at Oklahoma State University Institute of Technology. Constructed as part of
the school watch project, Mr. Shin was able
to bring his artistry and passion together with
the technical skills and competencies gained
and honed during the program.
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The basics, such as material knowledge, cutting
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are tools Mr. Shin drew upon while developing
the process for completion. The process began
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number of features that needed to be included
in his design. A single nickel silver disk was
chosen by Joe for its ability to retain a high quality
surface finish without plating and its traditional use in
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turned the recesses to create a 3/4 plate for the 6497.
FIG 06.29
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24
Part 2: Platform Escapement Bushing replacement
StUDENt NOtEBOOK: Flying Carrousel tourbillon
tOM’S tIPS: Delta: What Does It really Mean?
Part 6: Clockmaking—the tools
6/20/2013 5:27:47 PM
The school watch project is one
example of how students gain
a higher level of competency.
From design to completion,
the project is a product of the
student’s capabilities. Joe Shin is a
2010 CW21 and SAWTA certified
graduate and proud alumnus of
the School of Watchmaking at
OSUIT.
Horological Times is always on the lookout for
exceptional work and related photos. Please forward
queries and photos to [email protected] or jpficklin@
gmail.com for placement in our forthcoming regular
feature Student Notebook.
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cooled enough when it can be pulled out of the oil
and the smoke will reignite. Heat it again and dip it in
the oil briefly; ignite the fumes and then reheat. At the
third reignition, allow it to burn out and then drop it in
the oil to cool down. This process deposits an oxide
surface on the steel carbon, and a varnish that is very
“damp resistant.” Steel nuts and bolts for agricultural
machines were treated like this before stainless steel
became cheaper. Agricultural machinery gets left out
in the fields for years, and farmers expect to be able
to undo the bolts when necessary.
Finish with a touch of fresh oil to give the screw a
sheen. Figure 06.29 shows a “before and after,” and
Figure 06.30 shows the screw and washer assembled.
The form and the making of the washer was described
in Part 3, March issue, Horological Times, page 14. t
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25
Dale LaDue, CMW21
FIG 2.16
Part 2
Platform Escapement
Bushing Replacement
In the first part of this article, a bushing was turned
on the lathe that utilized a standard Bergeon brass
bushing, maintaining concentricity with its center hole.
T
here are different ways of returning a worn pivot
hole to its original position, and if you ask different clock repairers, each will have a preferred method.
In this platform, the clock wheel pivot did not extend
through its hole, and had worn laterally under the top
edge of the oil sink, creating a lip. Referring to Figure
1.2 in Part 1 of this article on page 26 of the May issue,
the pivot hole shows very little wear, especially compared to the underside of the plate as seen in Figure
1.1, page 26 of May issue. This allowed me to find center
using a faceplate in the lathe rather than a clock bushing tool.
The platform was mounted on the faceplate, and the
spring-loaded, tapered center was inserted into the
underside (the worn hole side) of the platform. At
this point, the worn hole was centered, which is not
necessarily the original center as viewed through the
inspection hole in the faceplate, Figure 2.14. The center
was withdrawn and locked back as shown in Figure
2.15. The platform was held loosely in the faceplate
clamps during this process, and then tightened to hold
the platform in place, Figure 2.16.
A wobble stick was used to find center by inserting
its pointed fore end into the topside of the hole that
had the unworn lip, Figure 2.17. This particular stick
Fig 2.14
Fig 2.15
Fig 2.18
FIG 2.17
26
27
Dale LaDue, CMW21
is pivoted 1” from the bushing and extends at least
7” from its pivot point. Consequently, any off-center
movement at the bushing is amplified by a factor of
seven. A millimeter gauge was set up at the far end to
indicate the slightest movement, Figure 2.18. When the
far end rotates up to its apex, the hole is off center at
its lowest point; conversely, when the far end is down,
the off center is up. At this point, a nonmarring small
hammer was used to gently tap the plate at the high
point and then check for movement at the gauge.
Doing this procedure a few times allowed the pointer
to remain steady. Figure 2.19 depicts the hole running
true as the lathe was spun. The hole was carefully
bored out and the bushing, being held on the wheel’s
pivot, Figure 2.20, was tested in the hole until it just
entered and remained in place as shown in Figure 2.21.
FIG 2-19
The platform was removed from the faceplate and
placed on a flat stump of a staking tool. A roundnosed stake that closely matched the contour of the
Fig 2.22
Fig 2.23
bushing’s oil sink was used to initially press the new
bushing in place, Figure 2.22. A smaller round-nosed
stake was then used to press the bush through the
plate, flush against the stump. This bushing could just
as well have been pressed home from the underside;
however, I chose to avoid any possible damage to the
banking pin nearest the new bushing. Viewed from the
underside, Figure 2.23 shows the new bushing and,
Fig 2.21
Fig 2.20
28
29
most importantly, the clearance from the milled out
banking pin section. The top view is shown in Figure
2.24 prior to cleaning and oiling.
David fahrenholz
Technical Book Review
The Gruen Watch Repairer’s Reference consists of
over 500 pages—mainly scanned documents from the
official Gruen publications, but it contains other research
as well. The book contains valuable interchangeability
guides for movements, dates of manufacture, hand
size, and more. Also included in this vast catalogue
are industry-standard sizes for various components.
An immensely useful component is the extensive
crystal guide, which should be helpful when ordering
customer’s crystals or trying to source numbers.
A smoothing broach was then used to remove any
burrs and to burnish the inside of the hole as shown in
Figure 2.25, after which the platform was cleaned and
oiled and replaced in the clock. I have demonstrated
a viable and professional manner to replace this
bushing concerning certain constraints, one of which
was the length of the bush compared to the width of
the plate. It would be difficult to match these differing
dimensions without creating an unusually shaped oil
sink in the plate. I opted to leave a small straight wall
hardly visible in the normal view in Figure 2.26.t
I enjoyed going through this reference and seeing the
depth of information the Gruen factory shared with
watchmakers. If you service Gruens or have an affinity
for this well-made brand, you should definitely pick
up this guide to make your library of Gruen watch
information complete.
ISBN: 978-0-578-08605-7
Available from gruenwristwatches.com
and watchmakingbooks.com
Fig 2.24
Fig 2.25
Fig 2.26
30
31
industry
news
CHELSEA CLOCK Creates
“SEAFARER” TROPHY
For 2013 Annapolis to Newport Race
Massachusetts-based Chelsea
Clock, 116-year-old maker of fine
nautical clocks, barometers, and
tide instruments, has been named
one of the official trophy sponsors of the 2013 Annapolis to
Newport Race (in conjunction
with the 2012 Newport to Bermuda Race), and has created an
exclusive “Chelsea Clock Seafarer
Trophy” for this biennial sailing
event that challenges racers on a
473-nautical-mile course from Annapolis, Maryland, to Newport, Rhode Island.
“Chelsea Clock is honored to be a part
of this exciting sailing event,” says
JK Nicholas, CEO of Chelsea Clock.
“The Annapolis to Newport Race is a
challenging international competition
that draws best-in-class racers from
all corners of the world. As a company
with a long, rich history of marking
time at sea, we are proud to create a
special award that acknowledges such
notable winning achievements and
celebrates the adventurous spirit of
today’s competitive sailors.”
The Chelsea Clock Seafarer Trophy
will be awarded to the team with the
best combined performance in both the
2012 Newport to Bermuda Race and
the 2013 Annapolis to Newport Race.
The trophy will be presented on June
12, 2013, at the Annapolis-Newport Race
Prize Giving at the Ida Lewis Yacht
Club in Newport, Rhode Island. Entrants
in both races in the IRC, IRC DoubleHanded, PHRF, and PHRF Cruising
divisions will be eligible to compete
for the Seafarer Trophy. First-place
keeper trophies, also created by Chelsea
Clock, will be awarded to winners in
each of the four divisions. “We deeply
appreciate the support of Chelsea Clock
for offshore racing,” says Annapolis to
Newport Race committee chairman
Chip Thayer. “Their generosity in
stepping forward to create the Chelsea
Clock Seafarer Trophy encourages
participation in these two great offshore
classic races.” One of the most historic
and well-known of the U.S. East Coast
blue water races, the Annapolis to
Newport Race begins on June 7, 2013.
Linking two seaports dating from our
nation’s birth, Annapolis and Newport,
the race provides a contrast between
the country’s largest estuary, the
Chesapeake Bay, and the Atlantic
Ocean. The race has existed in various
forms dating back as far as 1871, and
was officially established in 1947 to be
held on a continuing basis in alternating
years with the Newport-Bermuda
Race. Until the mid-1950s, it was the
Newport-Annapolis race, but after much
complaining by competitors about
slow trips up the Chesapeake after a
long ocean race, the course was finally
reversed in 1957. For more information
on the Annapolis to Newport Race, visit
www.race.annapolisyc.org
T rending
The Chelsea Clock Seafarer Trophy
The Chelsea Clock Seafarer Trophy,
designed as a perpetual trophy for
display at the Annapolis Yacht Club,
is a special edition of the company’s
Mariner clock, first patented and
produced by Chelsea in 1911. An exact
reproduction of an original yacht
wheel, the Seafarer Trophy features
Chelsea Clock’s renowned chiming
Ship’s Bell mechanism, with 11 jeweled
movements and 364 brass-and-goldplated precision parts. The clock’s dial
is crafted of deeply etched brass that is
hand silvered and enameled.
The wood base and back are
crafted of solid mahogany, while the
wheel’s ring
and base are
finished using
a proprietary
hand-rubbed
copper-bronze
finishing
process. The
Chelsea Clock
Seafarer Trophy
stands 17 ½
inches high
and weighs 33
pounds.
About Chelsea Clock
Founded in 1897 in Chelsea,
Massachusetts, Chelsea Clock is the
oldest clock company in America and
maker of fine nautical timepieces. The
chimes of the Chelsea Clock Ship’s
Bell, originally designed and patented
in 1898, have long alerted U.S. Navy
sailors and worldwide mariners to the
time during their “watch,” earning the
company a reputation for producing
authentic, high-quality nautical
timepieces. Today, Chelsea Clock
continues to produce a broad range
of precision clocks that meet stringent
government standards, accurately
keeping time aboard ships, submarines,
aircraft carriers, and other official
seafaring vessels.
Photo by Martin Image Photography (martinimage.com)
32
2013
From Cut Glass and Crystals
to Heirloom Timepieces
What is “The Weekend Watch”?
Several companies, often in conjunction
with well-known designers, have
developed lines of sporty, modern, and,
yes, “unbusinesslike” watches just to
keep things interesting. Here are a few
of the new kids on the horology block:
Jack Spade, a designer who originally
specialized in creating functional
utility bags, brings a series of watches
reminiscent of the old plastic Swatch
designs to much more stylized versions
inspired by sports watches.
In a recent issue of T Magazine, The
New York Times Style Magazine, we
couldn’t help but notice a small article
with cartoonish illustrations describing
“The Weekend Watch.” It appears that
high-end designers like Jack Spade,
Alessi, Miansai, and Tourneau are now
getting into the wristwatch game. The
news is designers are expanding by
creating elegant, funky, and sporty
Swiss-made quartz options that range
from $200 into the thousands.
And just last year, Swarovski, best
known for figurines, jewelry, and
couture made from cut glass and
crystals, unveiled a watch collection
of their own. Soon after, Swarovski
expanded their men’s line and Swiss
watchmaking expertise to include
women’s watches. For the men
this year, Swarovski introduces the
Crystallium Watch, designed by watch
designer Eric Giroud. The Swiss-made
watches combine Swarovski’s faceting
expertise as crystal and glass experts
with the knowledge of the finest Swiss
watchmakers.
The Crystallium has a 48mm case,
a spider web-inspired dial, and a
transparent case back that reveals a
“Côtes de Genève” style rotor. The
design, reminiscent of diving watches,
has been updated with a new stainlesssteel-and-aluminum strap, black
faceted ceramic bezel, and automatic
Swiss-made movement.
New in the women’s line, a sportier
option called Octea. Although the
focus is on simple, yet elegant, designs,
Swarovski never forgot where they
came from. Their Lovely Crystals line,
for example, incorporates crystals
using 16 freely moving zirconia stones
that glide around the dial.
Elegant timepieces, modern designs,
and heirloom pieces designed to be
worn on any occasion and to last a
lifetime. Watchmaking that’s a far cry
from humble beginnings in a small
glass factory in Northern Bohemia.
Alessi now has lines designed by
a series of designers including Hani
Rashid, who created the Eleganz der
Zeit an deinen Armband wristwatch.
Rashid’s previous projects as an
artist span from experimental spatial
installations to digital architecture.
Miansai, an accessories company
with a heavy focus on bracelets,
has now expanded, with the help of
Michael Sanger, to include watches
in three styles—M1 (Perpetual), M2
(Chronograph), and M3 (Automatic), all
available in multiple colors. Tourneau introduced 88 Rue Du
Rhone, an independent brand of Swiss
luxury watches, launched by Elie and
Pierre Bernheim. Grandsons of the
renowned Swiss watchmaker, Raymond
Weil, they combine their talents,
expertise, and watchmaking know-how
to create their own brand.
33
affiliate chapter
news
Capital Area Watchmaker
and Clockmaker Guild (CAWCG)
George McNeil’s Potomac Guild
The May monthly meeting program was by Patricia “Pat”
Holloway on the topic of “What’s New at the Fair?” The
topic included many things about watches and clocks
during the late 1800s. Items auctioned between the
meeting end and the beginning of the program for May
were a bag of various watches, two Bulova Accutron RR
wristwatches, WIN lighter in box, new Bulova Travel Alarm,
a bag of various pocketwatches and stopwatches, a bag of
wristwatch bands, and a box of Omega parts.
June Program Presenter
Mary Ellen Bell
Mention You’re an AWCI member and WE
WILL DONATE .1% of each sale to the ELM Trust!
CALL OR EMAIL FOR DAILY PRICING
(855) 243-8724, [email protected]
Batteries - Silver Oxide
Paying 2.2x silver
Polishing Per LB
TOP DOLLAR PAID
Call for price
Starting price per lb $60 & up
For the June program at the Fairfax City Senior Center,
Jason Hall and Joe Jabbour will give a presentation:
Understanding of Basic Fundamentals of Antique Clock
Valuation. They attended The NAWCC Clock Appraisal
Course and will share their experiences and knowledge
obtained during the course. The presentation will be
about an hour and will allow for questions and answers.
The information will include appropriate terminology and
establishes criteria for making value judgments based on
comparative analysis. Learn clock examination techniques,
what to photograph on a clock, and research tools and
methods. They will touch lightly on how to apply critical
appraisal skills, such as qualitative ranking, classification,
rarity determination, and how to write accurate descriptions.
President: Ryan Johnson
Vice President: John Enloe (Acting)
Location
Pok-E-Jo’s Smokehouse
2121 Parmer Lane (near Metric Blvd.)
Austin, TX
Phone: 512-491-0434
www.pokejos.com
For more information about CAWCG and how to join
contact Jay Holloway, Secretary, at hollowaytrading@gmail.
com
Secretary: Barry Boling
Treasurer: Dick Riegel
Call for free UPS
shipping label
$74.25
$38.85
$85.47
$43.46
$95.61
$48.34
$106.34
7131 Perri Lane
34
Brooklyn, NY
For more information about this association and how to join,
contact Joseph M. Schrader, CMW, at [email protected]
NAWCC has 16,000 members with horological
interests, businesses, and skills.
NAWCC Membership Includes:
•
•
•
•
•
•
WE PAY PER
POUND (LB)
$63.36
$33.75
The meetings usually begin at 6:00 p.m. for conversation
and refreshment, dinner orders at 6:30, and the official
meeting to commence upon completion of dining, usually
around 7:30. May door prizes were provided courtesy of
Butterworth Clocks.
•
Payout Examples 2.2x
LONDON
SILVER FIX
$28.80
The May meeting of the Indianapolis Horological Association
was held on May 29 at La Hacienda Restaurant. The
program planned was “Arnold Golay, Toy-Maker,” a
28-minute DVD about a retired Swiss watchmaker who
applies his horological skills to his retirement pastime.
Their May program was given by John Negal, a Fairfax
County police officer on smart preparation and tactics to
protect your home, business, and your personal safety.
He had a very informative program and provided answers
to member questions. Contact Barry Boling for more
information about the guild and how to join at bbwatch@
verizon.net
George McNeil’s Potomac Guild Officers
Meeting Date & Time
June 25, 2013
Dinner: 5:00 – 6:00 p.m.
Program: 6:00 p.m.
news
Indianapolis Horological Association
(IHA)
The Potomac Guild always includes a show-and-tell, 50/50
drawing, and any material wants/needs. Come early (6:30
p.m.) for an informal get-together with other members and
pizza dinner.
Gene Galbraith’s presentation
at the April Meeting: “Patti Unveiled”
The Capital Area Watchmaker
and Clockmaker Guild held their
Intermediate Clock Repair Class
at the Windermere Clubhouse in
Pflugerville. The class ran from 9:00
a.m. to 5:00 p.m. where the students
disassembled a two-train clock,
learned about spring removal, basic
inspection of the springs, gears and
pivots, pivot polishing by hand,
doing bushing repair by hand, and
reassembly. Everyone said they
learned a lot and had wonderful
fellowship with each other. Special
appreciation goes out to David
Arnold for his hard work in leading
the training with the support of Mike
Williams and Jay Holloway.
affiliate chapter
The Watch & Clock Bulletin, a peer-reviewed journal,
and Mart & Highlights, mailed and/or available online six
times a year.
An online archive of NAWCC periodicals since 1943.
Annual national conventions and educational
symposiums and many regional events.
Business membership opportunities
(visit www.nawcc.org for details).
Research and borrowing privileges at the Library and
Research Center, the world’s largest collection of
horological literature.
An online video collection and research material for
members only.
The NAWCC Community and the NAWCC Message
Board—access to thousands of members who share
ideas, form groups, give advice, and help other
members with their collecting needs.
Become an NAWCC member today!
www.nawcc.org
From the USA: Call 1-877-255-1849 (select option 5)
From the UK: Call 00-1-717-684-8261
11234
35
NAWCC_ad trade_APPROVED.indd 1
5/13/2013 7:31:27 AM
affiliate chapter
news
affiliate chapter
Minnesota Clockmakers Guild (MCG)
Award-winning astronomical
regulator built on a single plate
of glass by Richard Cox.
The date of the most recent meeting of the Minnesota
Clockmakers Guild was June 6 at the Hopkins Pavilion where
the program was “Sherline Lathe Fixtures, Attachments, and
Maintenance Tips” by Jeff Pomeroy and others.
Richard Cox, from Findley and
Cox Antique Clocks, talked
about his process of building
astronomical regulators in
his shop, showing his design
concepts and equipment setup
for gear cutting.
The joint MWCA-MCG Symposium was held May 3-5. It
began with a Friday evening presentation on Robotics, by
Mark Rosheim, at the Hopkins High School auditorium. He
shared interesting design information on making robotic
joints and providing more human-like movements using
drawings from Leonardo da Vinci.
Door prizes were provided for everyone by a number of
clock and watch part suppliers. Saturday events finished
with a silent auction being held.
Saturday’s session began with Diann
Clendening, right, from St. Paul,
who talked about the four stages
of beveling glass: grinding, leveling,
corking, and polishing. She then
went on to explain repairing chipped
and broken glass with adhesive
and replacing glass in leaded-glass
windows. It’s very helpful to know
someone who can do this kind of
work for clock repairs.
Sunday’s class, by Richard Cox, started with slides of his
new shop, tools, and equipment, and methods he uses
to repair great wheels
and pinions. This was
followed with a numeralfilling and dial-silvering
demonstration (right).
Susan Wood then led
a hands-on activity
with numeral filling and
silvering on brass.
Above right: Pocket watch crystal fitted
to the case and polished to a high luster.
Horological Society of New York (HSNY)
There will soon be a new way to find out information about
the Horological Society of New York. Over the coming
months they are having a new website developed which
will be accessible at www.hs-ny.org and is expected to be
completed later this year. The website will house a variety of
different features such as contacts, history, member/business
profiles, calendar, meeting reports, digital newsletter, and
horological links to other sites. Plan to visit the site toward
the end of the year.
The speaker at the May meeting of HSNY was Lance Maxwell
from Rolex, USA. He showed a film explaining how the Rolex
brand is perceived and marketed throughout the world. He
offered interesting insight into a brand that was founded
by Hans Wilsdorf, and has become very successful and
maintains high standards on every level. The June meeting
was held on June 3 and covered the “History of the HSNY.” It
contained both slides and books. On view was the Uhrmacher
Verein New York, a pictorial index redone from the original;
the Ledger Book of the NY Watchmakers Society from 19191929; and song sheets from SMOKERS showing lyrics sung at
events. The program was a valuable and interesting history
lesson from HSNY, which itself was founded in 1866 and
claims to be the first watchmakers’ guild in America.
Contact: Ed Hydeman, President, for information on
upcoming meetings or how to join at [email protected]
Far right: Intricately cut piece with patterns and sculpting to show what is possible with various grinding stones.
Thomas Chase and Doug Thompson explained the
history from 19th century to the present as well as
the performance of coaxial escapements, which were
developed by Charles Fasoldt and later enhanced by
George Daniels. Chase and Thompson then distributed
Omega catalogues and shared a number of Omega
Seamaster Pro watches so we could view the production
coaxial escapements.
AW C I M E M B E R B E N E F I T
Class attendees (l-r) seated: Andy Baron, Susan Wood, Stew LeLievre, Greg Booth, and Fred Fischer. Standing: Dean Ziegenbein,
Jeff Pomeroy, Harry Granzo, Bob Brending, Garth Antila, Mark
Purdy, Wes Cutter, Richard Cox, and Richard Zielike.
Wes Cutter and Susan Wood demonstrated the MicroSet
Precision Timer, showing many attachments and how
to use them for clocks and watches as well as computer
software to track beats of the movement to identify
problems.
FUTURE MCG MEETINGS:
July 13, 2013 - (Saturday) Visit to J.B. Hudson Jewelers
August 1, 2013 – “Paint Stabilization and Restoration” by Maria
Rizkalla from the Minneapolis Institute of Art.
September 5, 2013 – “Cutting Wooden Gears” by Terry Jones on
X/Y machine designed by Bill Gable.
Joyce Paxton guided us through the process of developing
a plan of where we want to go for the future of our groups.
Mark Rosheim discussed his research into Leonardo da
Vinci’s programmable cart, sharing how he found the
drawings and made a model of the cart to demonstrate
how the springs, cams, and gears worked together to
guide and direct the movements.
36
news
Mark Rosheim showing the shoulder joint action built into the robot to
give the realistic arm movement actions, and explaining his model of
da Vinci’s programmable cart and showing how it functions. Leonardo
da Vinci’s drawings of the programmable cart with cams, gears, and
leaf springs to drive/guide its movement.
MCG OFFICERS:
President: Richard Zielike-952-938-0681; [email protected]
Treasurer: Garth Antila-715-386-3575; [email protected]
Secretary: Dean Ziegenbein-952-322-4776; [email protected]
a unique timepiece magazineÊ
3Êyrs/onlyÊ$30
Ê
(6 issues)
AWCI Members Save $10!
Regular Subscription Rate $40.
www.watch-around.com
Subscribers should visit
www.watch-around,com
All payments must
be made via
website.
37
awci
Henry Kessler, AWCI TreasureR
I would like to begin by sharing a
little perspective. I joined AWCI
around 2005, and shortly thereafter,
was selected to be the Chairman of
the Industry Advisory Board, which
included the additional responsibility
of working as a member of the
AWCI Board of Directors. Frankly
speaking, from my naïve perspective,
I believed AWCI’s management ran
the organization, and working as a
member of the BOD, was more or less
an honorary position. I was dead wrong,
and quickly found myself overwhelmed.
During my first board meeting, I was
being tugged on from various factions
of the board. There were more than a
few board members that were firmly
convinced management was doing
a poor job, and should be replaced.
There was very serious talk of moving
the organization to a management
company’s control. Another meeting
seemed focused upon the termination
of AWCI’s Operations Manager/inhouse CPA. Then there was the issue
of declining membership, and concerns
about AWCI’s financial viability. All of
these issues were serious, and facts
were hard to come by.
From my start, I decided to help
where I could, while delving into the
issues and doing my best to wrap my
mind around each subject. At the same
time, it was unfortunately necessary to
learn how to accomplish a variety of
objectives, while working with opposing
facets of the board and management.
To make matters more complicated,
every year there is a transition of
board members, with some leaving
as their terms expire, some that quit
for a variety of reasons, and new
members that join the board. IMHO,
the routine turnover of board members,
combined with the blessings and curse
of our huge Perpetuation Fund, work
against the possibilities for progressive
progress.
Please allow me to explain further.
The BOD is responsible for protecting
the interests of membership, while
deciding upon the various objectives
38
news
Transitional Times for AWCI
From Financial Uncertainty to Long-Term Viability
of the organization. While hindsight is
always 20/20, past boards, working
closely with management, made
decisions that were unfortunately costly
to the organization, and failed to reach
reasonable objectives. With good
intentions, we all made mistakes in the
past, and now we must learn from those
mistakes.
For a variety of reasons, it had
seemingly become acceptable to both
board members and management
to always be late, while attempting
to generate easy-to-understand
accounting data. One of the issues
may have been the simple fact that our
fiscal year-end is (currently) June 30,
while membership dues are collected
on a calendar year basis, and often
prorated depending upon when they
are received. Another issue was that
our annual convention, one of our most
costly projects, would generally take
place in August, with revenues and
expenses related to the convention
occurring in two different years. Add
to this a reduction in revenue due to
declining membership and the stock
market crash, which yielded a reduction
in staff, and you can imagine there
could be some difficulties to manage.
Finally and unfortunately, a growing
portion of membership wrongly holds
AWCI responsible for the global
reduction of access to spare parts.
With regard to the Perpetuation
Fund, according to a recent report by
Jack Kurdzionak, we started working
with the Johnson firm on the first day
of 2008. The value of the fund on that
date was approximately $6,540,000.
The fund has paid over to the Institute
approximately $30,000 per month
since the beginning of 2008, totaling
almost $1,900,000. In light of the
stock market crash and its subsequent
recovery, the Net Asset Value of the
Perpetuation Fund today is more than
$6,800,000. (If we had not made the
monthly
withdrawal,
the NAV
today would
certainly be
greater than
$9,000,000!)
The
trustees
have had
to resist
persistent
pressure
from management and various board
members to access that fund for
various purposes over this same fiveyear period, while fortunately growing
the fund's value—all while paying
out a steady stream of revenue to
the Institute. This steady stream of
income to AWCI also worked against
AWCI’s possibility of success. In fact,
in the past, little attention was focused
upon developing projects capable of
breaking even; generating a net income
was never even a part of the overall
management philosophy. Making
matters worse, if the BOD worked
in opposition to management, all
management seemingly needed to do
was wait for the next transition in board
membership. There was also the belief
that any big mistakes could always
be corrected by raiding the “Golden
Goose” Perpetuation Fund.
To answer the question, where are
we today, I must first reflect back
on the period prior to our Denver
Convention. A few weeks prior to the
convention, our Operations Manager/
CPA reported to the BOD that
budgeted expenses and revenues
yielded an unexpected shortfall (loss)
of approximately $60,000. While en
route to the convention, we learned this
loss was reported to have increased
by $100,000. This was followed by a
regular routine of promises of finalizing
the data for our auditors in two weeks.
awci
By our mid-year 2013 meeting, we still
did not know where we stood as of
June 30, 2012, but the BOD had been
working on a back-up plan.
The current BOD was committed,
from our start, to working cohesively.
A decision was made to quickly
implement new management and
learn where we stand. A Cincinnati
consultant was hired to investigate
the needs of the organization, and was
then tasked with the responsibility of
installing a highly skilled CFO, on a
temporary basis, together with a parttime bookkeeper, in order to investigate
where we stand, and to quickly bring
our records current, and to keep them
this way. At the same time, the decision
was made to start afresh with a new
lawyer and new, highly qualified auditor.
The auditor’s report* and financial
results for the fiscal year ended June
30, 2012, support the board’s decision
to take immediate action. The audit was
delayed by months due to incomplete
information. Also, we realized that
management improperly accounted
for revenue as earned, instead of as
received. This exception to professional
accounting standards is clearly noted
in the auditor’s report accompanying
AWCI’s financial statements, and this
deficiency with respect to accounting
standards is particularly problematic
as the BOD is trying to make strategic
decisions concerning allocating the
Institute’s resources. In other words,
without knowing where you stand
financially, you simply can’t develop
viable plans or budgets!
For fiscal year-end June 30, 2012,
the total reduction of net assets was
$396,000, which is far more substantial
than the $160,000 loss as indicated
by management in their last round of
reporting ($322,000 from operations;
$74,000 debt extinguishment). This is
compared to an increase in net assets
of $528,000 in the prior fiscal year. As
compared to the prior year, revenues
were down, expenses were up, and our
investments showed a minor loss as
well. Clearly, our finances were moving
in the wrong direction in a significant
way as compared to both years
preceding fiscal 2012.
In order to preserve AWCI’s solid
financial standing, immediate action
has been taken by our financial
consultants: several expenses have
been deferred, reduced, or eliminated
including $44,000 in annual meeting
costs; potential employer retirement
contributions of approximately
$20,000 annually were eliminated;
scheduled technology upgrades have
been delayed or reduced; and all
other expenses are continually being
monitored, reviewed, and questioned.
This type of ongoing financial scrutiny
is something AWCI has needed for
quite some time. In discussions with
our auditor, we have confirmed that the
existing financial reporting system was
not functioning at an effective level to
produce timely, accurate, and reliable
financial information for management
and the board. While we can’t expect
to turn the ship around overnight, our
actions have already had a significant
positive impact on the long-term
financial viability of the organization
and have put us on a far better
trajectory.
In closing, I would like to again
mention that these are transitional
times, and there remains much
work to be done. We would like to
encourage members to offer their
assistance and creative thought.
One of our key priorities is to better
understand the wants and needs
of our members, perhaps via a
questionnaire. We could certainly
benefit from additional success stories,
and we would love to see letters
from members acknowledging how
they have benefitted from AWCI
training and certification programs or
communications with our staff.
Thank you for your ongoing
membership. This is your organization;
I encourage you to become more
involved in our success story.
* http://www.awci.com/about-us/governing-documents/financial-documents/
news
AWCI’s Educational, Library,
and Museum Trust (ELM Trust)
has been awarded $7,500 by
the New Hampshire Charitable
Foundation. This award is a
total pass-through grant. Every
dollar donated is awarded in
equal shares to one student
at each REC school upon
the recommendation of the
faculty. This year six qualifying
students earned the grant in the
amount of $1,250 per student.
The source of this award is the
Harold J. Greenwood and Marie
Borneman Greenwood Memorial
Fund. The donors owned a
jewelry business and left funds
in their estate to help qualifying
watchmaking students.
OSUIT Student Jan Knisley Wins
AWCI ELM Trust Scholarship
Jason Champion, CW21, Faculty; Jan Knisley,
student scholarship recipient; Jason Ziegenbein, CW21, Faculty, School of Watchmaking, Oklahoma State University Institute of
Technology
Students! Get published by AWCI
in HT’s new Student Notebook.
Do you have a special project?
We’d love to publish it! Send a query to
Jordan Ficklin at [email protected].
Include information about yourself, a
description of your student project, your
educational experience, and a photo or
illustration. No matter how big or small
the project, we want to hear from you!
39
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news
classified
industry
for sale
wanted to buy
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We inventory 1000’s
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dials, hands, bezels &
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& cable, cuckoo parts,
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barometer parts,
Atmos style tools &
material, ultrasonic
cleaners, mainsprings,
quartz & mechanical
movements, electric
movements, tools,
products, batteries,
books, suspension
springs, clocks,
cleaning solutions,
lubricants, & more.
Timesavers
Box 12700 • Scottsdale, AZ 85267 • USA
Phone: 480-483-3711 • Fax:480-483-6116
[email protected] • www.timesavers.com
Our 172 page illustrated catalog #37 is free online
or only $5 in North America for a printed copy.
Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books & DVDs
by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, Powell, TN 37849. Phone
865-947-9671; www.wrsmithclocks.com
Underwood Jewelers: Jacksonville, FL
Seeking to add one watchmaker to our shop. This position
requires a CW21 certification and will entail primarily working
on Rolex watches. If interested, please reply by email to Michael
Richards at [email protected]
WANTED WATCH BOXES
Buy - Sell - Trade
We want most major brands. Also buying high-end jewelry
brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684
40
Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster
Over 15 years experience
Quick repairs & reasonable prices
www.timemachinerepair.com
Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or [email protected]
WATCH REPAIRMAN: Kendallville, IN
David Christianson CMW21, FBHI, FAWI, is looking for a watch
repairman to work with him and ultimately take over the
operation of his watch service business.
The successful applicant will be a watch school graduate and
willing to attain a CW21 certificate within a three year period.
No experience is needed to apply.
The successful applicant will have the opportunity to learn
and grow professionally in a 21st Century state-of-the-art
watch service laboratory with a continuous 150 year history
of timepeiece repair and restoration. Complicated timepieces
have been a specialty.
Send resume to [email protected]. Expressing interest:
260-347-0560
Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts
Paying for Valjoux 69,72,88 up to $800.00, Venus 178 $300,
Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, Movado 90,95 $300.00. Also
buying high-grade movements and parts. Dean Sarnelle, 25
W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401,
1-866-877-8164, [email protected].
Top prices paid
for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill,
sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment return
mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Established
1960. Phone (843) 722-2073
WATCHMAKER: Highland Park, IL*
HAMILTON 505 BALANCE COMPLETES WANTED
Paying $20 each. Must have good coils/hairsprings. Worn-out
contacts okay. René Rondeau, PO Box 391, Corte Madra, CA
94976. [email protected].
Watchmaker/Technician Bozeman, Montana
ROLEX PARTS WANTED
Buying genuine Rolex
crowns,crystals,bracelets,dials and
parts,new or vintage. Also buying
Rolex dealer catalogs and displays.
Email [email protected] or call
617.742.0221
Call Toll Free 1-800-208-2608
Visit our website for more information
www.specialtymetalsrefiners.com
CW Certification beneficial but not necessary.
Must be fluent with vintage and contemporary watches.
Resume/references/inquiry – [email protected]
Swiss Wrist: Beverly Hills, CA
A high-volume luxury watch site, is seeking a full-time
watchmaker(s) with a CW21/WOSTEP certification. Proficiency
with Rolex required and experience with Cartier, Breitling, and
other luxury brands a big plus.
This is an exciting opportunity to work with a fast growing
multi-million dollar commerce brand. Requirements: CW21
Certification, Proficiency with Rolex, and 2+ Years Experience
Watchmaker Wanted
Lemieux Diamond Company: Ocala, FL
A professional watch repair business located in Central
Florida seeking a watchmaker with CW21 certification. Great
opportunity to join a long established, fast-growing business.
We have state of the art equipment and will supply you with
an appartment. Contact Guy Lemiux.
Tel #: (352) 895-2225
Full-time Watchmaker Needed, South Houston, TX
Specialty Metals
CW21 certification required for luxury independent retail store
with competitive salary and benefits. Saturdays required. Email
resume to: [email protected] or call 281-332-8433
Member: Jewelers Board of Trade
Full-time Watchmaker Needed
San Francisco, CA
CW21 certification required for expending Breitling
Service Center.
Email resume to:
[email protected], or fax 415-407-6223
2490 Black Rock Tpke.
Fairfield, CT 06825
203-366-2500 - Local
800-884-7966 - Fax
[email protected]
tradesmen
Service/Sales of Timing and Cleaning Machines
Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Movements, Crystals,
Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction
Books, Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items,
ANYTHING!
Doug Giard, 586-774-3684
WANTED!
WE BUY WATCHES
Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Breitling, Audemars,
Tudor and others. Modern or Vintage.
Doug Giard, 586-774-3684
help wanted
$$WANTED ANYTHING$$
Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling- Panerai - Le Coultre
Vacheron - AP - Etc.
Entire Watch Collections
Scrap Watchbands
Gold-Filled Cases & Scrap
Gold, Silver & Platinum Scrap
wanted to buy
help wanted
classified
60 year old established and expanding multi-store luxury watch/
jewelry company seeks qualified watchmaker; CW21/WOSTEP
certification; trained and certified in Breitling, Rolex, Tag Heuer
and Cartier (or combination thereof) in addition to experience
with standard ETA movement; quartz movements and refinishing
techniques. Ability to multi-task; occasional interaction with
clients; self-motivated; Competitive salary with benefits. Send
resume and salary requirements to: [email protected]
This position is accessible via public transportation
situations wanted
WATCHMAKER/TECHNICIAN
30 years experience
Horology School Graduate
Please contact John
[email protected]
tradesmen
Larry Blanchard, CMW21
At Palmer’s Jewelry
DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY,
quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet
positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to:
KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA
98032; (253) 852-5125
ATMOS Service/Repair
MAINSPRINGS
Clock and music box - All sizes.
Custom made. Brass gear blanks.
Timewise (formerly TANI Engineering)
Ph: 330-947-0047, E-mail: [email protected]
services
ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS
Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and watches. We have
helped over 200 watchmakers in the last 15 years to dispose of
their accumulations. When you’re really ready to sell, we’re
ready to buy! Phone (229) 928-9092 or (727) 327-3306. Ask
for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: [email protected]
Repair | Restoration
FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST
1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060
RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 • CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI
www.fendley-cox.com
HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH RESTORATION
Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 and
505 Electric watches. René Rondeau, P.O. Box 391,
Corte Madera, CA 94976, Phone (415) 924-6534
www.hamiltonwristwatch.com
Watch Parts Fabrication:
I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to modern. MATT
HENNING CW, 413-549-1950
www.henningwatches.com
DENNIS KAYE
108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513
888-363-9510 • 540-SERVICE
Porcelain Dial Restoration
Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock
Platform Escapement Repair
Atmos Parts & Service
400-Day Clock Repair
Kundo Coil / Electric Clock Service
Prompt Reliable Service . . . Guaranteed™
Large Supply of Watch Movements &
Parts for LeCoultre, Wittnauer & Longines
Call Us or Visit dialrepair.com
services
101 East Sycamore St., Kokomo, IN 46901
Phone (800) 207-1251 • Fax (765) 457-8517
E-mail: [email protected]
Facebook.com/palmerjewelry Continuing with service of tuning
fork Accutron, vintage American and fine Swiss watches.
Warranty 2 Years Parts & Labor
314-968-1010/877-437-1774, Clockmaster, Inc.
Robert Good
2537 So. Brentwood Blvd. St. Louis, Missouri 63144
ads
We also fit glass crystals to
Openface, hunting, and English
chain drive watches.
Complete watches, dials,
movements, case springs for sale
G F Specialties
1-800-351-6926
P.O. Box 170216
Milwaukee, WI 53217
All Brands · Warranteed Work · Free Estimates
Mention Code HT2011 and Enjoy 15% Off
chelseaclock.com | 800 284 1778
ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE
We are Factory Authorized Service for:
• Greiner VIBROGRAF
• TICK-O-PRINT & L&R
We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate
recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience.
190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903
Used Equipment Bought & Sold
For Information
(415) 479-8960
www.electronicinstrumentservice.com
2013 CLASSIFIED POLICY
AWCI HT classified advertising fees/rates and minimum schedule
remain the same as last year. We request that you put all classified
advertising on a credit card. We accept MasterCard, Visa, American
Express and Discover. If you require a physical invoice and 30-day
terms, your rates will be higher due to the additional costs incurred
in labor, supplies and carrying charges.
HT Classified Rates for 2013:
For Credit Card Payments…
For Paper Invoicing…
• $1.10 per word and $1.50 per • $1.20 per word and $1.65 per
bold word
bold word
• Classified “Display” ads with • Classified “Display” ads with
art borders: $47.50 per col. art/borders: $52.25 per col.
inch (2.25” wide)
inch (2.25” wide)
• Color – add’l $15.00 per ad • Color – add’l $16.50 per ad
• Blind ads – add’l $16.50
• Blind ads – add’l $15.00
per ad
per ad
Minimum Schedule: 3-Month Minimum
Advertising studies show it takes over 3 viewings for readers to
recognize specifics in your ad.
Deadline: 50 days before first of month for month you plan to
run Note: If you place a recruitment ad on the www.awci.com
Career Center as a combo online/HT ad, there’s no need to resend
the ad to us. The website system is automatic.
To Place Your Ad:
Email: [email protected] or
Call: 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)/513-367-1414
www.gfspecialties.com
41
Jack Kurdzionak
Member
Perspective
awci
ADVERTISERS’ INDEX
A Synopsis of the Perpetuation Fund Story
Many years ago, AWCI was the
custodian of a valuable collection of
watches. The founder of the Packard
automobile company donated them to
one of our predecessor organizations.
Sometime in the late 1980s, the Board
of Directors (BOD) decided to liquidate
the collection, generating about $7.1
million, which they invested.
Originally, all of our investments were
in U.S. Treasury securities (bills, notes,
and bonds). These are actually all the
same instruments but have different
names depending upon the time to
maturity. Fixed-interest securities
follow the inverse bond rule. In a period
of rate decline, the value of already
issued securities increases, as they
generally carry a higher coupon rate
than those currently being issued.
When treasury security interest
rates declined in the early 2000s,
AWCI’s management wished to
receive an increased income yield from
the fund and engaged a brokerage
firm to manage the fund. This firm
convinced the PF trustees to exit
treasury securities and purchase
government guaranteed Ginny Mae
securities, which were revenue bonds
based on mortgages. They were still
guaranteed, but had much longer
maturities. We sold our relatively
high-interest-rate securities for the
capital gains and swapped them out
for similar interest-rate, longer-term
bonds. The Fund bought these bonds
from our brokerage firm’s inventory
and managed to continue its income
stream, but the downside was the
maturities were out decades, which
increased our market risk that could be
caused by changes in the interest-rate
market. After a couple of years, our
income stream continued to decline,
and the maturity dates were out as
far as they could go. The brokerage
firm then recommended Freddie Mac
and Fannie Mae mortgage derivative
42
bonds (not government guaranteed)
to increase the income stream. By
this time the trustees were becoming
concerned as the NAV of the fund
had declined due to the decrease in
current market value of our Ginny Mae
holdings. On paper, if the bonds were
held to maturity they would have been
worth about $7.5 million or so, but their
actual NAV at the end of 2007 was
$6.54 million.
Several trustees were also concerned
about our firm, which was a brokerage
house with no one on staff who held
qualifications as an investment adviser.
Bonds are not sold on the open-bid
market as stocks are, but are generally
held by brokerage houses and sold at a
profit from their inventory. The trustees
were never advised of this hidden cost.
The Perpetuation Fund Trustees,
around the year 2007, decided to use
a new fund advisor. In the summer
of 2007, the trustees interviewed six
firms to choose one to handle the fund.
Several gave excellent presentations.
The trustees, after several conference
calls, chose the Johnson Investment
Counsel to manage the account. They
are the largest in Ohio and specialize
in managing funds such as ours.
Since they took over on January 1,
2008, we have had a steady income
stream each month, and they have
managed to preserve the value of
the fund throughout the tumultuous
financial period of the past several
years. Johnson advised formulating a
spending policy for the fund’s income
that the Trustees agreed to be no more
than a 5.5% annual withdrawal from the
fund payable in monthly installments.
The trustees did have to change the
investment policy from having only
U.S. securities to investment-grade
publicly traded securities. Otherwise
there would be little or no income
from this fund as government bonds
now carry very low coupon rates.
When Johnson took over the fund,
the corpus of the fund had declined
to a NAV of $6,543,492 on January
1, 2008. The Trustees stayed the
course with Johnson so that the NAV
was $6,805,452 as of May 31, 2013.
Cumulative monthly withdrawals from
the Fund during this time period have
been $1,882,625.
We pay the Johnson firm an annual
fee based upon the size of our fund
with a 10% courtesy discount from their
standard rates (available to nonprofit
organizations). Our liaison with the firm
has been and still is Dale Coates.
The Trustees have strongly resisted
numerous attempts by the past ED and
some directors to access the principal.
AWCI has never accessed the principal
of the fund. At one time, the Trustees
did pledge a portion of the fund as
collateral to secure a loan. The value
of the collateral account for the loan
was $1,506,494 as of November 30,
2011. The collateral account was closed
and securities transferred back into the
main portfolio during December of 2011.
The Trustees now number five. In
the past, the ED was the sixth voting
member of the fund. A recent bylaw
change removed that provision. The
Trustees consist of the President and
Treasurer of AWCI plus three Trustees
who are past officers of the Institute.
A majority of the Trustees must vote
affirmatively for any fund activity. t
Editorial material and letters of opinion
are invited and reflect the opinions
of the authors only and do not
represent the views of the American
Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
(AWCI), its directors, officers or
employees. AWCI reserves the right
to edit all submitted materials and
is under no obligation to accept any
submitted materials for publication.
The appearance, reference, or
advertisement of any product or
service in this publication shall not
be deemed an endorsement of such
products or services or methods
by AWCI, its directors, officers, or
employees.
Borel & Co., Jules
(816) 421-6110 BOARD OF DIRECTORS
inside front cover
Butterworth Clocks, Inc.
(563) 263-6759
25
Bergeon
41 32 833 6000 27
Cas-Ker Co.
(513) 674-7700
Clocks Magazine
011 44 131 331 3200
29
35
Global Battery Buyers
(855) 243-8724 15
Greiner Vibrograf
greinervibrograf.ch9
Livesay’s, Inc.
(813) 229-2715
23
Magnum Power Products, Inc.
(480) 205-2193 24
Microbattery.com.
(800) 680-2355 12
Renata
(800) 527-0719 back cover
Richemont North America
richemont.com Watch Around
watch-around.com
Wm. S. McCaw Company
(800) 537-0343
Witschi Electronic Ltd.
011 32 352 05 00
directory
10 & 34
37
25
Officers
Manuel Yazijian, CMW21: President
[email protected]
Wes Grau, CMW21: Vice President
Affiliate Chapter Director
[email protected]
Henry Kessler: Treasurer
[email protected]
Terry Kurdzionak: Secretary
[email protected]
Acting Past President
Dennis Warner: President
Directors
Tom Nesbit, CW21
[email protected]
Fred White, CMW21
[email protected]
Michal Blaszczyk, CW21
[email protected]
Ron Landberg, CW21
[email protected]
Jordan Ficklin, CW21
[email protected]
Justin Shiver, CW21
[email protected]
Jason Ziegenbein, CW21, REC Director
[email protected]
Terry Kurdzionak, IAB Director
[email protected]
David Douglas, CW21
[email protected]
Fellows
*Robert F. Bishop
*James H. Broughton
Fred S. Burckhardt
Alice B. Carpenter
David A. Christianson
*George Daniels
Wes Door
Jerry Faier
*Henry B. Fried
*Josephine F. Hagans
*Orville R. Hagans
*Ewell D. Hartman
*Harold J. Herman
J.M. Huckabee
*Gerald G. Jaeger
Jack Kurdzionak
*Benjamin Matz
*Robert A. Nelson
*Hamilton E. Pease
Archie B. Perkins
Antoine Simonin
William O. Smith, Jr.
Milton C. Stevens
*Marvin E. Whitney
*Deceased
American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute
701 Enterprise Dr.
Harrison, OH 45030
Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI • 513-367-9800
Fax: 513-367-1414
[email protected] • www.awci.com
16
WE THANK THE IAB
AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the Institute and the industry.
PTRC Inc.
SWISS WATCH
SERVICE GROUP,
SWISStime care, Inc.
INC.
Phone: 800-541-5494 Fax: 800-341-8373
w w w. c r t i m e . c o m
Electra Steam
Phone: 800-541-5494
Fax: 800-341-8373
w w w . c r t i m e . c o m
Movado Group Inc.
43
Phone: 800-541-5494 Fax: 800-341-8373
w w w. c r t i m e . c o m
Phone: 800-541-5494
Fax: 800-341-8373
w w w . c r t i m e . c o m

Part 2

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