to be a watchmaker
Transcription
to be a watchmaker
TM January 2016 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY AMERICAN WATCHMAKERSCLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE The World’s Most Complicated Watch Epilame and the Modern Watch Service Repairing Music Box Governors For only $175 per year, you get 12 issues of the only U.S. monthly magazine serving the horology professional. Want more? Get Access to Archived Editions of the HT Valuable Networking Opportunities Join Our Online Technical Discussion, Spare Parts & Tools Forums. Discounted Business Services —We’ve negotiated favorable member rates for numerous business services. Training and And, so much more ... AWCI sets the standards for the industry, conducts training to meet those standards, and provides industry-recognized PLUS, your input will help shape the future of horology. Register online: www.awci.com. IN THIS issue VOLUME 40, NUMBER 1, January 2016 Feature The American Spirit Schon DSGN Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute (AWCI) 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) or 513-367-9800 Fax 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com www.facebook.com/MyAWCI Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 Executive Director Ext. 310 [email protected] Donna Hardy Managing Editor Ext. 305 [email protected] Kathy Ortt Editor [email protected] Janette Torres-Gomez Graphic Designer & Assistant Technical Support Ext. 302 [email protected] Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Watchmaking Instructor Ext. 309 [email protected] Cindy Whitehead Education & Certification Coordinator Ext. 303 [email protected] Maureen Seals Membership Coordinator & Technical Support Ext. 301 [email protected] HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE Karel Ebenstreit, Chairman, CMW, CC21 Paul Corn Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 David Fahrenholz Bob Little, CC, CW Robert D. Porter, CMW Wesley Simmons Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright ©2016 by the American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute. Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $175.00 per year ($15.00 per copy). Members subscription is $99.00 which is included with annual dues of $175.00. Periodicals postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 page 12 Industry News Business School Students Research American Manufacturing for Watches AWCI News By Elizabeth Graves page 31 By Fred T. White, CMW21 page 4 Vacheron Constantin 57260 President’s Message Executive Director’s Message By Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 page 5 Editor's Forum By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 page 33 Made in America The FTC Requires More Truth in Advertising By Donna Hardy page 35 Seeking Candidates for the AWCI Board of Directors page 14 Education & Certification Affiliate Chapter News page 8 Technical Discussions Epilame and the Modern Watch Service By Bernhard Stoeber, CW21 page 17 Repairing Music Box Governors By Paul Corn page 22 January 2016 The World's Most Complicated Watch By Donna Hardy page 6 page 40 TM SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY AWCI Educational Calendar AMERICAN WATCHMAKERSCLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE The World’s Most Complicated Watch Epilame and the Modern Watch Service Repairing Music Box Governors Cover Image: The movement of the Vacheron Constantin 57260, the most complicated watch to date. Watchmaking Excellence CW21 Standards page 36 Clockmaking Excellence CC21 Standards page 37 AWCI Class Request Form page 11 AWCI's Governing Structure page 38 Columns Classifieds By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI page 15 Buy, Sell, Trade, and Employment Opportunities From the Workshop Q&A By David Christianson, CMW21, FBHI, FAWCI page 30 Sit on Your Hands: Horology Q & A page 47 Advertisers’ Index page 50 Industry Advisory Board Members page 50 page 28 OUR VISION: AWCI’s vision is to have an educated and passionate horological community practicing the highest standards and with the resources to provide quality goods and services. OUR MISSION: Setting service standards and educating the horological community. Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers LIKE US ON FACEBOOK! www.facebook.com/MyAWCI 3 a message from the president FRED T. WHITE, CMW21 Wow, members of her church in a negative way. Shirley it’s 2016 and by said, “I will not go out with this person again because now you have been of her negative attitude.” On another occasion, she to the parties and toasted the was with a former co-worker for a luncheon, and they New Year and have made those talked about how well this person or that former emresolutions that sometimes are ployee was doing: one had gotten a promotion, and so hard to keep. Some of us give the other one had bought a new house. She came our shop a thorough cleaning away with a good, positive feeling and looks forward with the hope and belief that to another visit with this person. this is going to be a great year. Have you ever been around someone who feels We sharpen our screwdrivers, that the world is not treating them fairly or that they point up our tweezers, and, in Fred T. White are owed something they did not earn? They usugeneral, check all of our tools [email protected] ally get what they think about all the time, because to make sure they are in good become things. The best helping working order. We might even buy someYou hold in thoughts hand is at the end of your own wrist. Whatthing that we feel will help us to do a better job. What is the most important tool in our your hands the ever you think about all the time will come pass. Basketball players who are good at tool box? Perhaps you would say my tweetools to shape to what they do visualize making that basket; zers or my screwdrivers or that tool that you that outstanding running back knows he is very seldom use. your own going to score. So it should be with horolo All of these are important but not the destiny. gists. Do you see yourself being at the top most important. The most important is you, of your game? Do you see yourself working on combecause without you those tweezers, screwdrivers, plicated timepieces? Do you see yourself asking for and all the other tools cannot repair a clock or watch a higher price for your work and getting it? Do you or service that customer that just came through the see yourself taking that test to become a certified door. We hold in our hands the tools to shape our watchmaker or certified clockmaker and passing it? own destiny. It’s up to you to do what you wish with Certification should be something that you do for your life. You are in control. You are the driving force yourself to see how darn good you are or can be— behind whatever you do. With a positive attitude you not to get a parts account. Remember: You hold in can change your world or possibly change the world your hands the tools to shape your own destiny. one person at a time. Have you ever been in a room where everything was negative? Where one person HAPPY NEW YEAR. MAY YOU BE BLESSED WITH felt everything was doom and gloom and they influenced the attitude of the entire room? You probably GOOD HEALTH, PLENTY OF GOOD WORK, AND left feeling low and didn’t understand why. My wife MAY YOU FIND ALL THE PARTS THAT YOU NEED recently went to lunch with a lady, and the whole TO DO THOSE JOBS. time they were at lunch this person talked about 4 January 2016 JORDAN P. FICKLIN, CW21 a message from the executive director What, How, and Why typically show you how to apply the oil, how to adjust the endshake, or how to carry out basic operations. When you attend brand-specific training or watch As we kick off a new year I one of a myriad of poorly produced videos on the Inwant to share with you some ternet that claim to teach watch or clock repair, they thoughts that came out of multypically show you how to carry out a specific repair. tiple discussions about quality They will share tips and techniques that may help of education. Many industries you avoid damaging critical components. They may are promoting online educahelp you interpret the technical documents so that tion, and increasingly we are you know better how to apply oil to the components seeing videos on the Internet shown. They may tell you how to clean the compothat claim to teach watch reJordan P. Ficklin nents and where to look for common problems in the pair topics. AWCI has resisted [email protected] watch. This type of training helps you bethis type of teachAs we break into come an effective technician, but the best ing for many years, but this coming year AWCI is going to make a concerted ef- the era of digital horological professionals understand not fort to produce some webinars and/or education, we only what to do and how to do it, but also YouTube videos on select watchmaking will continue to why to do it. When you understand why watches topics. We are fully committed to mainfocus on teaching and clocks work, when you understand taining and promoting our high standards to the highest why lubrication is applied in certain areas through these videos. and in certain ways, when you understand From my perspective, there are three standards in why watches must be clean, you are able main types of training. You have the What, horology. to apply this knowledge in broad ways to the How, and the Why. many different timepieces. At the American Watch Many manufacturers will publish information that makers-Clockmakers Institute we promote learning communicates what must be done in a repair. This that encompasses the What, How, and Why of hoinformation is usually found in the tech guide or workrology. On many occasions students in our classes ing instructions. It provides specifications about what have shared their appreciation for the thorough unkinds of oil must be applied and where it should be apderstanding they have acquired in our classroom. As plied. It may also include tolerances for endshake, and we break into the era of digital education, we will increasingly common is information about minimum continue to focus on teaching to the highest stanaccepted screw torque. It may indicate the proper dards in horology. setup for calendar mechanisms or striking/chiming I look forward to 2016. It’s a great time to be a sequences. Without a quality horological education, watchmaker or clockmaker. this information is not very useful because it doesn’t AWCI Board Meetings Now Open to All Members! All members are invited to participate in the monthly conference calls of the Board of Directors. The meeting will be streamed live using the GoToWebinar format, which will allow all interested AWCI members to participate. To participate in the next meeting you will need to register at least 24 hours in advance. You will need to have your AWCI member number available. After you register, we will verify your membership. The morning of the call you will receive an email with instructions to join the call. You will be able to listen to the entire meeting. At certain times during the meeting your feedback may be requested, and you will be able to briefly share your thoughts by using the "raise your hand" button in the platform. The experience will be very limited for individuals who call in on the phone without logging in on their computer. Horological Times 5 Editor’s Forum Sit on Your Hands We received this email regarding the "Sit on Your Hands" question from Horological Times, November 2014. Happy New Year! In the upcoming year, our goal is to bring you enlightening and informative articles on the art, science, and business of horology. As always we welcome your comments, questions, and suggestions. Some of the topics we'll be covering in the upcoming year include lathes and mills, CAD/CAM, photography in the workshop, complications, marketing tools and techniques, and much more. The staff of Horological Times wishes you a happy and prosperous new year. Readers Respond Good morning, Donna: Well, my copy of HT arrived yesterday and I was very pleased with the coverage on the convention. And, if that is a picture of ME in the red Mercedes...then I want that car!!! If anyone else is responsible for the article, please extend my thanks! Terry Kurdzionak I do not like the answer of David Morrow at all. It is typical watchmaker thinking. David is ignoring the business thinking of the store owner. Calling the ethics of the store owner in question is not his job; neither is how the owner does business. What is unethical about cleaning/polishing the case and band and selling the watch as is? The store owner may even give a warranty: We do not know. David has no idea how much money the store owner has invested in the watch and if the store owner can add an $800 repair to this watch and still sell it with a profit. A watchmaker is not the ethical police for anyone and should repair the watch as requested by the store owner. On the other hand, David and all likethinking watchmakers can open their own stores and show those store owners how to do it. I have earned my living as a watchmaker for 50+ years, and, yes, I always respected the wishes of the store owner, for he has to earn the money to pay my salary. Rudolf Hoellein, CMW21 The Horological Times staff Donna Hardy Janette Torres-Gomez Kathy Ortt Writers for Horological Times can earn between $300 and $875 or more per article. It depends on the length of the article (25 cents per word). Earn a 10% bonus for submitting assigned articles early or on time. If you’d like to write for Horological Times, email [email protected] for guidelines. Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes 6 Follow us on Twitter! www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute Follow us on Instagram! www.instagram.com/AmericanWatchmakers January 2016 Are you AWCI Certified? Is your training up to date? Customers who receive high-quality, professional watch repair services are more likely to make watch and jewelry purchases in your store time and time again. CW21 and CMW21 watchmakers have proven their skills to a professional Board of Examiners. They have a track record for producing high-quality repairs with very few warranty issues. A Certified Watchmaker • Elevates your store above the competition. • Gives your customers confidence in your service. • Enhances the brands you carry and promotes both your reputation and integrity. Invest in your business with membership in AWCI, through continuing education classes, and by becoming certified. These are the building blocks to the success of your watch repair business. American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute would like to offer you the opportunity to obtain the training for your employees that can elevate their capabilities to the highest standards in the industry. We offer training from the finest instructors in the industry on topics from basic to advanced. AWCI Training Includes • Introduction to Watch Repair • 21st Century Watchmaking Standards • Modern Mechanical Chronograph: 7750 • The Art of Watch Adjusting: Escapement, Timing & Oscillator Work • Balance Staffing & Timing • Modern Automatic Watches • Quartz Watch Repair & Testing • Polishing & Refinishing • Essential Micromechanics: The Watchmaker's Lathe • Precision Timing & Adjusting (advanced class) • Vintage Wristwatches • Advanced 21: Caliber Specific Training • And More Call or email our Education & Certification Coordinator for more information: [email protected] [email protected] | Phone: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 303 calendar AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS AWCI's goal is to continue to provide high-quality continuing education for watchmakers of all skill levels. Having Tom Schomaker as our full-time watchmaking instructor ensures just that. He brings with him many years of watchmaking experience as well as a passion and talent for teaching. Whether you are just starting out or have 30 years’ experience, we guarantee you can learn something in our state-ofthe-art classroom. Together with the support of the education committee and the REC, AWCI is working to introduce classes designed to help train retail watch technicians, develop certified watchmakers, and prepare a new generation of master watchmakers. Prices below reflect member's discount! Not sure which course to sign up for? Please log on to our website and fill out the Professional Experience Questionnaire. Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests. Don’t see the course you want here? We are always trying to expand and improve our course offerings and we welcome suggestions. We may also have a course already developed that isn’t scheduled, and we can try to accommodate you. Looking for someone to come to your business, chapter, or guild to teach a course? We do that too. Please contact our education and certification coordinator for more information. We hope to see you, your friends, and your associates in our classroom soon! Essential Micromechanics: The Watchmaker’s Lathe (February 1-5) The purpose of this class is to teach students fundamental micromechanical skills involving the watchmaker’s lathe. This includes preparing and sharpening gravers, basic cutting geometry, turning cylinders in brass and steel, drilling on the lathe, parting off, measuring, and will include barrel bushing manufacturing. January 11-13 $995 (includes polishing kit) WATCH 175B: Case & Bracelet Refinishing Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 San Diego, California Come to sunny San Diego and participate in a three-day version of our Case & Bracelet Refinishing class. Average January Temperature: 57 degrees January 20-22 $595 WATCH 102: Watchmaking Theory Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio Set down the tools and sharpen the mind. This class focuses on the theory behind why watches work. This class will help you prepare for the CW21 exam, but more importantly, it will also make you a better repair person. A solid understanding of theory helps you identify problem areas and troubleshoot repairs. Set down the tools for a few days, step away from the workbench, and come participate in our three-day class on watchmaking theory. Prerequisites: Students must bring The Theory of Horology to class. 8 February 1-5 February 22-26 February 15-19 February 29-March 4 $1,095 WATCH 250: Essential Micromechanics: The Watchmaker’s Lathe Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio The purpose of this class is to teach students fundamental micromechanical skills involving the watchmaker’s lathe. This includes preparing and sharpening gravers, basic cutting geometry, turning cylinders in brass and steel, drilling on the lathe, parting off, measuring, and will include barrel bushing manufacturing. $1,095 WATCH 190: 21st Century Watchmaking Standards Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This course will teach students the fundamentals of modern mechanical watch repair for models most prevalent on the market today. Topics covered will include cleanliness, lubrication, endshake adjustment, and may include verification and analysis of escapement function. Prerequisites: Basic understanding of manual-wind watch function, knowledge of watch terminology, and ownership of basic hand tools. $1,095 WATCH 230: Balance Staffing & Timing Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This course will teach the student all the fundamentals of balance staff replacement. Topics covered will include the verification and analysis of the escapement function, poising (static and dynamic), truing and timing adjustment in a mechanical watch, cutting out a balance staff on a lathe as well as modern methods. Calibers used include ETA 6497 and ETA 2824. $2,495 CW21 Exam AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio March 14-18 $1,350 (includes polishing kit) WATCH 175: Case & Bracelet Refinishing Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. This course is perfect for the watchmaker or dedicated refinisher. It will help you achieve the different finishes on modern watch cases. Also covered is disassembly and assembly of common watch cases. January 2016 -- -- CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE March 28-April 1 $1,095 WATCH 220: Modern Mechanical Chronograph—ETA 7750 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This course focuses on the service and adjustment of modern mechanical chronographs like the ETA 7750 and is the perfect course for anyone preparing for the CW21 Exam. Students should have a solid understanding of basic service procedures as this course will focus on the chronograph mechanism itself. April 4-8 $1,095 WATCH 210: Quartz & Quartz Chronograph Service Procedures & Diagnostics Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio The purpose of this course is to teach the student all the fundamentals of modern basic quartz watch repair and quartz chronographs that are most prevalent in today’s market. The student will learn how to perform the various important electronic tests, e.g., current consumption, coil resistance, lower working voltage, fault finding, etc. April 11-15 $1,095 WATCH 420: Vintage Chronograph Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This five-day class covers in detail the features, adjustments, theory, and service procedures of 20th-century chronographs featuring one-piece cams, two-piece cams, and column wheels and includes technical instruction on the intricacies and unique features of early chronographs from Valjoux, Omega, Movado, and Heuer. April 25-29 $2,495 CW21 Exam AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio Horological Times May 2-6 $1,095 WATCH 200: Modern Automatic Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio The purpose of this course is to teach the student all the fundamentals of modern mechanical automatic watch repair that are most prevalent in today’s market. The student will learn how to perform the various components, cleaning, assembling, adjustments, dialing, and casing. May 16-20 $1,095 WATCH 240 : Servicing The Lever Escapement Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This intense five-day course will help you refine your adjusting skills. The course covers all of the adjustments for the Swiss lever escapement, hairspring, and balance. Also covered is the ETAChron system. June 13-17 $1,095 WATCH 100: Introduction to Watch Repair Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio A survey course for the new or prospective watchmaker covering the basic skills and techniques used by the modern watchmaker. This class is perfect for anyone thinking about entering the profession of watchmaking or for the individual who just wants to gain a better appreciation for the art of watchmaking. Students who take this class will be prepared to advance to Basic Watchmaking II. Before attending, students should study Theory of Horology and be familiar with the basic nomenclature of watchmaking. June 27- July 1 $1,295 WATCH 290: CW21 Preparatory Course Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This course is designed to help individuals who have taken courses at AWCI to identify areas in which improvement is still needed and provide them with individualized instruction to help them prepare for successful completion of the CW21 Exam. Prerequisites: Successful completion of three or more 200-level AWCI courses. July 11-15 $1,095 WATCH 220: Modern Mechanical Chronograph—ETA 7750 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This course focuses on the service and adjustment of modern mechanical chronographs like the ETA 7750 and is the perfect course for anyone preparing for the CW21 Exam. Students should have a solid understanding of basic service procedures as this course will focus on the chronograph mechanism itself. August 8-12 $1,095 WATCH 190: 21st Century Watchmaking Standards Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This course will teach students the fundamentals of modern mechanical watch repair for models most prevalent on the market today. Topics covered will include cleanliness, lubrication, endshake adjustment and may include verification and analysis of escapement function. Prerequisites: Basic understanding of manual wind watch function, knowledge of watch terminology, and ownership of basic hand tools. August 22-26 $1,095 WATCH 210: Quartz & Quartz Chronograph Service Procedures & Diagnostics Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio The purpose of this course is to teach the student all the fundamentals of modern basic quartz watch repair and quartz chronographs that are most prevalent in today’s market. The student will learn how to perform the various important electronic tests, e.g., current consumption, coil resistance, lower working voltage, fault finding, etc. Continued on next page... 9 Education and Certification: AWCI Educational Calendar September 12-16 $1,095 WATCH 240 : Servicing The Lever Escapement Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This intense five-day course will help you refine your adjusting skills. The course covers all of the adjustments for the Swiss lever escapement, hairspring, and balance. Also covered is the ETAChron system. September 26-27 $595 High-End Horological Decoration and Finishing Instructor: Henrik Korpela K&H Watchmaking Competence Centre in Le Locle, Switzerland Chicago, Illinois Mr. Henrik Korpela will return to the United States this year to attend the AWCI convention and give an encore presentation of the two-day seminar on high-end horological decoration and finishing, which he presented last year. The course, which takes place just ahead of the AWCI Annual Convention, is limited to 12 students. Topics covered will include black polishing (specular polishing) screws, round polishing screws, and bluing steel components. If time allows, additional topics may include applying straight grain finishes and sablage (a matte finish with characteristics similar to sandblasting). October 3-7 $1,350 (includes polishing kit) WATCH 175: Case & Bracelet Refinishing Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. This course is perfect for the watchmaker or dedicated refinisher. It will help you achieve the different finishes on modern watch cases. Also covered is disassembly and assembly of common watch cases. October 10-14 $2,495 CW21 Exam AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio October 17-21 $1,095 WATCH 230: Balance Staffing & Timing Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This course will teach the student all the fundamentals of balance staff replacement. Topics covered will include the verification and analysis of the escapement function, poising (static and dynamic), truing and timing adjustment in a mechanical watch, cutting out a balance staff on a lathe as well as modern methods. Calibers used include ETA 6497 and ETA 2824. November 14-18 $1,295 WATCH 430: Hairspring Vibrating Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This course teaches the classical art of vibrating hairsprings and helps watchmakers develop their skills in manipulating and correcting errors in hairsprings as well as forming new hairsprings from raw materials. For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: http://www.awci.com/education-certification/education2/list-of-continuing-education-courses/ or contact Cindy Whitehead at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303. 2016 Annual Convention It’s a Great Time… ...to be a watchmaker Chicago, Illinois September 29 October 1 American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Drive • Harrison, OH 45030 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) • 513-367-9800 • Fax: 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com • www.facebook.com/MyAwci 10 January 2016 AWCI Class Request Form There are a lot of great classes on the calendar for the coming year, but we are looking to expand this list. This survey will help AWCI decide what future courses to develop and where to hold bench courses. Completing this survey does not mean you are signing up for the class; nor does it mean this class can be taught in your area. We require a minimum of eight students to hold a bench course. If there are other classes you wish to see offered, please let us know what they are so we can begin the development process and make them available to you. You can respond with your survey response via mail, phone, fax, or email, or you can complete the survey online. 701 Enterprise Drive • Harrison, OH 45030 513-367-9800 513-367-1414 [email protected] www.awci.com/survey Affiliate chapters: If you would like one of these classes, please call AWCI to schedule the class. Pricing One-Day course - $300 Two-Day course - $595 Three-Day course - $750 Five-Day course $1,095 Course Topics (You may check as many as you would like) 400-Day Clocks Electric Clocks Repivoting for Clocks Accutron Service Estimating Repairs and Business Practices Repivoting for Watches Advanced Lathe Filing & Flat Polishing American Time and Strike Hairspring Manipulation Atmos Clock Service Hairspring Vibrating Basic Lathe Hairsprings for Clockmakers Clock Bushing Installation Watch Case & Bracelet Refinishing Chronograph Adjustments Clock Barrel & Wheel Repairs Clock Case Repair Making a Hairspring Removal Tool Making Balance Staffs Pivot Polishing for Clocks Clock Restoration Practices Pivot Polishing for Watches Clockmaking Theory Platform Escapements Crystal Replacement Quality Control Your Repairs Cuckoo Clock Service Quartz Analysis and Testing Cutting Arbors & Stems Digital Photography Techniques Running a Watch or Clock Shop Servicing and Staffing the ETA 6497/98 Servicing the Automatic Watch Barrel Servicing the Pocket Watch Lowering Your Delta Movement Decoration & Finishing Clock Escapements Dynamic Poising House Calls Ronda 8040.B Quartz Chronograph Quartz Watch Repair Removing Scratches from a High-Grade Dial Social Media Marketing Swiss Lever Escapement Technical Writing Tool Making Tubular Bell Clocks Watch Crystals Explained Water Resistance Testing Watchmaking Theory Wheel Cutting Other: Other: Name AWCI Member Number Address Business Phone City Home Phone State/Province ZIP/Postal Code Email Are you willing to travel to AWCI HQ in Harrison, OH to attend these courses? Closest Metropolitan Area Farthest distance you would be willing to travel for one of these courses Are you interested in one-, two-, three-, or five-day classes? Horological Times 11 The Making Timepi Schon DSGN Ian Schon of the Pen Project Ventures into Watch Manufacturing By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 By day Ian Schon is a product designer and engineer for IDEO, an international $130+ million design and consulting firm with clients from multi-billion dollar companies such as 3M, Coca-Cola, Microsoft, Samsung, GE, Ford, and Toyota. At night Schon spends time at home with his manufacturing equipment, prototyping and perfecting the process for producing his own line of watches as Schon DSGN. Schon has always had a knack for figuring out how things work and what he can do to make them better. He remembers being very particular about watches when he was growing up. It was always very important for him to have one around to tell the time. While attending Boston University for mechanical engineering, Schon ordered watches from eBay and took them apart just to see how they worked. He was interested in how complicated mechanical watches were and how many different ways there were to design and manufacture watch parts. Many design and engineering factors have to be overcome to create a reliable watch. Ian Schon pictured with his products at the American Field market. To understand the core principle behind Schon DSGN, you needn’t look any further than the Pen Project. After spending years manufacturing custom bicycle parts, Schon wanted to create an easy-to-use everyday item with a simple yet reliable design that was entirely manufactured in the US. He turned to Kickstarter to help raise the funds to pay for the completion of his project and was able to raise over $60,000 in the process. The pre-orders surpassed the 1,000 pens made in his first production run. The first pens produced were housed in an aluminum body. Since creating Ian Schon's display at the American Field market the first run of pens, Schon has showing his pens and the step-by-step process of case manufacturing. 12 January 2016 Seeking Candidates for the AWCI Board of Directors Deadline to submit your nomination: January 31, 2016 How to submit your nomination: Mail to: Board of Directors Nominating Committee American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison OH 45030 Or email to: [email protected] The Nominating Committee is seeking recommendations for candidates to run for the AWCI Board of Directors. If you are interested in running for a seat on the Board of Directors, you may nominate yourself. The Nominating Commit- The 2016 Board of Directors at the annual convention in Kansas City. tee will carefully consider each recommendation. Candidates will be selected on the basis of their local association or AWCI experience, present job status, horological experience, and willingness to serve. The Nominating Committee will notify each candidate whether they have or have not been selected by February 15, 2016. For more information: see the AWCI Policy Manual, 4.2008.01: Nominating Procedures: Qualification and Selection Process. The AWCI Policy Manual is available on AWCI’s website: www.awci. com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/AWCIPolicyManual.pdf AWCI Policy Manual 14 January 2016 Column: From the Workshop parts, including the automatic bridge, dial, hands, and calendar. Doing this rules out any of the additional components from consideration. The problem has to be in the base movement. 3.The amplitude tests immediately rule out any balance staff issues. When dial up and dial down amplitudes are very close and the vertical positions only lose 20° to 30°, the staff should be okay. 4.The watchmaker noted during the repair that the train was running freely and smoothly, which indicated all shakes and depths of wheels are okay. 5.The watchmaker’s escapement checks were all okay. 6.The mainspring was the logical place to look next for the problem. The diagnostician’s extensive experience fitting mainsprings alerts him that only a very small, high-grade automatic movement can run well with a mainspring strength of 0.06mm. The ETA 2671 needs far more power than that to run properly. Some factory service centers routinely replace every mainspring on every watch movement they service, which would have eliminated the problem entirely. However, in the real world it is not always possible to replace, in advance, every possible part that could cause a problem. That can be costly and with the growing scarcity of replacement parts, it may not always be possible. Watchmakers, more than ever before, will need to hone their diagnostic skills to save both time and money. Down, But Not Out The new year has arrived and watchmakers will need to adapt to a new, but not entirely unique, circumstance. As mentioned here last month, ETA SA will no longer Choose one. It might fit but not work. be supplying spare parts to watch material distributors after December 31, 2015. The cessation of ETA spare-part distribution will certainly force some changes, the extent of which at this time is unknown for both independent watchmakers and their traditional suppliers of spare parts. For many years, ETA SA had supported independent watchmakers by providing a reliable source of spare parts, utilizing traditional distribution channels. The supply of ETA spare parts will gradually diminish as the material distributors use up the supply of parts they have in their inventory I recently spoke with the manager of a material supplier who observed from his many years in the business that he was going to look upon ETA SA as just another manufacturer that has gone out of business. During the nearly 100 years his company has been in business, every American watch manufacturer has disappeared and numerous Swiss factories have gone out of business. Yet his company is still in business. With each past upheaval in the business of watchmaking, the management of this company has coped with the changes. He expects his company to survive this latest challenge. Jack Kurdzionak, watchmaker and watch material specialist, owned a Boston-area watch sales and service shop for 40 years. Jack has a BS (Northeastern University 1967) and has studied at ETA, WOSTEP, BHI, SGUS, and AWCI. He retired to New Hampshire and works for Eckcells Watch Material with Terry Kurdzionak. 16 January 2016 Technical Discussion: Epilame and the Modern Watch Service EPILAME AND THE MODERN WATCH SERVICE Reprinted from April 2009 Horological Times and updated in 2015 By Bernhard Stoeber, CW21 Introduction Although the process of treating watch parts for better lubricant retention during the manufacturing of precision timepieces has been known and gradually used for over 80 years, the use of Epilame during the service process is much more recent. This article will provide an overview of the historical background, the application principles, the use in an industrial environment, and how Epilame should be used in the modern watch service process. Brief Historical Background Until about 1925, the making of lubricants used in the manufacture and service of watches and clocks had been more of an art than a science. Not unlike painters, watch and clockmakers had their own “recipes” for creating their lubricants. The industrialization of watchmaking eventually led to the production of oils and greases in large quantities by specialized companies. Originally, these lubricants were made from vegetables (olives), animals (bones and hooves), and mineral oil. All had the disadvantage that they could cause corrosion, become rancid, creep away from the bearings, and change properties with the fluctuations of temperature, etc. The recommended service cycle for watches was usually every two to three years. Precision timepieces, such as ship chronometers, deck watches, and railroad-grade pocket watches, needed to be serviced and timed by authorized watchmakers and/or observatories on a more frequent basis. The transition from art to science was the result of the close collaboration between the foremost horologist of the late 19th and early 20th century, Paul Ditisheim, and Paul Woog, a petro-chemist, working for the Laboratories Wisner in Clichy, near Paris. In 1925, Woog invented a process called “epilamen,” where a thin film of stearic acid was applied to the surface of parts coming into contact, preventing the spread of any lubricant that had been applied to those parts to reduce friction. Over the next 15 years, Ditisheim and Woog developed numerous lubricants for watches and clocks that significantly reduced the disadvantages of the customary products mentioned earlier. They also experimented with and marketed synthetic lubricants in the 1930s.1 The application of Epilame during the manufacturing process of watch movements and their parts has been common since the 1940s and the use of synthetic lubricants (at least for the train wheel and shock-absorbing systems) since the 1950s. Synthetic escapement lubricants, like 941 and 9415, were introduced in the 1960s and ’70s, and new oils and greases are still being developed and replacing those that are mineral based, such as HP 1000 or HP 1300 in place of Microgliss D5. The Purpose of Epilame Whenever moving parts are in contact with each other (such as a pivot in a bearing, setting lever moving a yoke, etc.) friction occurs. Lubrication is added to reduce this friction, which has a direct impact on the overall functionality and reliability of the watch. The most critical part is that the lubrication is applied in the right places and that it stays there. Any displacement of the lubricant will have an adverse impact on the function of the timepiece. How a drop of lubricant applied to a given surface behaves depends on the chemical structure of that surface and its surrounding environment. Furthermore, which shape a drop of lubricant forms on that surface is determined by the equilibrium between the surface energy of the lubricant, the solid material it is applied to, and the gaseous environment. Basically, the drop of lubricant will remain Liquid Solid Support 1 There are two excellent articles about Paul Ditisheim that detail his groundbreaking work with lubricants. The first is an article by Kathleen Pritchard (NAWCC Bulletin, February 1995), and the second by Fortunat MuellerMaerki (NAWCC Bulletin, August 2004). This article is actually a book review and contains partial translation of the only biography of Paul Ditisheim published in book form. The author is Fritz von Osterhausen, and Editions Antoine Simonin published it in Switzerland (German/French only). Horological Times 17 Technical Discussion: Repairing Music Box Governors REPAIRING MUSIC BOX GOVERN0RS R By Paul Corn epairing or replacing the music box governors or replacing the whole music box is part of cuckoo clock repair. Sometimes the music box repair is overlooked. The material houses sell governors for the music boxes, but they don’t always fit. The repairer will have to file new holes for the mounting screws. Also, the gearing could be different. If the gearing does not match the governor that came with the music box, the tempo could be too fast or too slow. The plastic gear will often crack, making the governor useless. For some time the plastic gears that break in the governors were not available. However, these plastic gears and arbors are back in stock and can be purchased from Black Forest Imports, Inc. (1-800-824-0900). They come in two sizes—small AFG17S/5 and large AFG17/5—and five to a pack. I have come up with a technique and tooling to bush the governors and repair most of the cracked plastic wheels that operate the fly. The tooling is easy to make from a few pieces of material that might already be in your shop. The first piece is a flat piece of steel. The second piece is the pusher that is made from round stock and is machined to fit the Bergeon bushing tool, Figure 1. The flat piece of steel is .750" (19.0mm) x .125" (3.17mm) and 4.00" (101.60mm) long. A hole is drilled in the center of the steel piece with a #55 drill and .093" (2.38mm) from the edge. The hole is a little larger than the KWM #1 reamer. I use the KWM #1 reamer, which is .044" (1.13mm) in diameter, and L07 bushings to bush the governors. A “V” slot was machined to the left and right of the hole in the steel piece to accommodate governors that have a formed tab for the shut-off assembly. The pusher is made from brass and steel stock. The brass piece is machined .193" (4.90mm) in diameter by .560" (14.22mm) in length, and a hole is drilled in the brass piece for the pusher. A flat is machined or filed to fit the bushing machine spindle set screw. A piece of round steel .086" (2.2mm) in diameter and .669" (17.00mm) in length is used for the pusher. The steel stock is turned down to .027" (.68mm) in diameter and .039" (1.00mm) in length. This is smaller than the inside diameter of the bushing. The next step on the pusher is turned down to create the shoulder .044" (1.11mm) in diameter and .147" (3.74mm) in length. This is just a little smaller than 22 Fig. 1 Fig. 2 the outside diameter of the bushing. This allows the pusher to slip in the reamed hole without binding. The pusher is fitted into the brass piece and held in place with 680 Loctite, Figure 2. The Procedure The hole in the flat steel piece is centered in the bushing tool using the centering point. A stump cannot be used because it will interfere with the governor frame, Figure 3. The #1 reamer is placed in the bushing tool spindle. Material houses sell an adapter for the Bergeon bushing tool to go from Fig. 3 January 2016 Column: Sit on Your Hands Sit on Your Hands: Horology Q Q&A What do you do if another watchmaker/clockmaker reaches out to you for help figuring out a particular repair? What do you do when you are struggling with a particular repair? Do you reach out to another watchmaker/clockmaker who is a friend or acquaintance and ask for help in figuring it out? ANSWERS I enjoy troubleshooting watches. My favorite is the escapement and hairspring manipulation. Many of my fellow watchmakers do not enjoy these issues and have given them to me to work on. A fresh set of eyes is always welcome when I have a lingering problem that takes more time than needed. Even though I have been doing this for 40 years, there are still problems that arise that are out of the ordinary. This is especially true now that the Internet is selling watches that have been abused, and I am hired to save them. Mostly I need help in finding parts quickly. —Brian Tanguay I always try to help, and I'm thankful for all those who have helped me over the last 45 years. —Wendell Sharp I never turn down requests of assistance by other repairers and have no problem asking others for their input. Then again, being the owner of the business, I have the discretion, but I can see how repairers working for others may not. We are a very small community and I think we need to support others in the trade as best we can. —Watch & Clock Service & Repair We are a rare big family that enjoy the craft of clock and watch makers. So we need to keep it alive. So we need to share. Isn’t that what school is for––sharing and learning? — Rich Szlamer What happens in the UK is that you get reported to the BHI as not being fit, or you are told in emails/phone calls how bad you are. I once wrote an article for the BHI on correct lubrication, and this was taken on by you guys. I was targeted wholesale by British watchmakers (not Americans) to such an extent that due to the pressures put on me, I had a breakdown. This was in 2006 after some 25 years in the industry. I am still ignored by the industry nine years later all because I didn’t want people using WD40 on watches and clocks. God help the UK industry. Shared knowledge is important, and this was why the UK watch-manufacturing industry failed in the 1890s. We considered that we were best and wouldn’t listen to anyone else. —Simon Coope Watch/clockmaking isn't something of outer space, no secrets at all. So give advice and help each other wherever you can. Exchanging knowledge is no crime. Unfortunately, parts supply is getting to be a BIG deal nowadays. Looks as if Switzerland is creating their watch-monopoly again.... —Charles Jacobs 28 Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers January 2016 Column: Q & A with David Christianson with David Christianson, CMW21, FBHI, FAWCI Question: I need some help on a watch. Engraved on it are the words: Howard Bros. Independent Watch Company. Fredonia, NY. No. #181877. Improved April 10, 1879. EPT 15 1880. I am wondering what I have here. The key is missing so I can't wind or set it. Any help would be appreciated. Kirk Harrigan The brothers, E. W. Howard and C. M. Howard, purchased the California Watch Company after it had been idle for two years. They had been selling watches by mail for some time and started engraving the Howard Bros. brand on American-made watches. Their main sources for watches were the Hampden Watch Company, the Illinois Watch Company, and the United States Watch Company of Marion, New Jersey. The brothers formed the Independent Watch Company in 1880, but it was not a watch factory in the usual sense. Instead, they had other manufacturers engrave The Independent Watch Co. name on the top plates and on the dials of the watches. In 18811885 they decided to manufacture watches and used the Fredonia Watch Company name. In 1881 the brothers decided to move their plant to Peoria, Illinois (Complete Price Guide to Watches, Engle, Gilbert & Shugart, No. 35, 2015, p. 301). Your watch was made by the Illinois Watch Co. for the Howard Brothers. It is an 18-size, model #1, made in 1877. David Christianson Watchmakers & Clockmakers Have you worked on an unusual or historic timepiece that fascinated you and you wanted to know more about it? Answer: Kirk, Your Independent Watch Company watch is a member of what Donald Hoke calls the “NewarkPeoria Family” of American watch manufacturers (The Time Museum Historical Catalogue of American Pocket Watches, by Donald Robert Hoke, 1991, p. 14). According to Hoke, this “family of firms began life as the Newark Watch Company in Newark, NJ, in 1864 and migrated to Illinois, California, New York, and back to Illinois, as respectively, the Cornell Watch Company, Independent Watch Company, the Fredonia Watch Company, and the Peoria Watch Company before finally expiring in 1895.” David Christianson is a graduate of Purdue University, the Kansas City School of Watchmaking, the Gemological Institute of America, and is an internationally known horological historian. 30 Where was it made? How old is it? Have customers asked you questions about the history of their timepiece that you were unable to answer? David Christianson, CMW21, FBHI, FAWI can answer your questions. Send your question along with clear, highresolution photos to Member Services [email protected] or mail them to Member Coordinator 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 January 2016 Industry NEWS Business School Students Research American Manufacturing for Watches “The Two-Week Experts” By Elizabeth Graves A group of MBA students at the University of Michigan’s Ross School of Business were tasked with researching the possibilities for manufacturing watches, or watch components, in the United States. Since Detroit’s Shinola is not far from the Ross School of Business in Ann Arbor, Michigan, they had some involvement in the project. In the report below, one student reveals the findings of her team. T he term “fire hose” has been used by students at Ross to describe the onslaught of intense experiences—trips, guest lectures, case competitions—students may encounter during our MBA program. Our first fire hose experience was the limited amount of time my team had to complete a case competition dealing with the watchmaking industry. The objective of the case competition was to develop a strategy to bring more manufacturing back to the United States, specifically in the watchmaking industry. This competition required participants to identify a component of a watch that was best suited to meet this objective. As we sat through a day of presentations, all the teams seemed to come to the same conclusion: Let’s try to source the metal cases. Leather and cloth for watch straps seemed to be already sourced in the United States. Movements seemed to be a profitable secret the Swiss would never be willing to share. So watch cases were the most obvious choice. Our Google search led us to a group of watchmaking experts, the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. For the next 30 minutes, the Executive Director, Jordan Ficklin, answered every watch-sourcing question we could think of. By the end of the conversation we were well on our way to becoming experts. Our perspective on the watch industry is that it is steeped in tradition, which leads to cautious evolution, and this instinct is well founded and necessary. It’s a source of pride and the glue that binds a community of makers and wearers. Horological Times In that vein, the craftsmanship of the curious has been the key to moving the industry forward. From the adventurers who wanted clocks to cross the high seas, deep ocean, or outer space to those who experimented with quartz and solar panels, the watch industry, like time itself, is always moving forward. In that same spirit, we think the solution to sourcing cases in America is additive manufacturing technology (also known as 3D printing). From our perspective, there are two types of additive manufacturing—the everyman printers and the printers that cost $500,000. They are truly worlds apart. We feel the top-of-the-line printing technology best suited to this cause is Binder Jetting. Binder Jetting is superior in both speed and versatility. Whereas regular additive printers print single layers at a time, Binder Jetting prints multiple layers at a time. You can think of it as a laser-jet printer laying down multiple drops of ink per swipe across a piece of paper. Where regular 3D printing is done in plastic, with Binder Jetting you can choose between plastic, glass, metal, and wax. After printing you then “bake” the layers in place for added stability. Many Binder Jetting projects are even produced like a shell, baked and then gone back and “filled” with a different material to suit its specific purpose (weight, durability, etc.) Unlike the everyman printer, this is not something that melts in the sun or cannot withstand pressure. This is a technology that is employed to make aircraft parts and fracking equipment. Binder Jetting shares the ability to create complex designs and can be finished in practically any material you can dream up. 31 Affiliate Chapter NEWS Minnesota Clockmakers Guild (MCG) The Thursday, December 3, 2015, meeting was at the Hopkins Pavilion in Hopkins, Minnesota at 7:00 p.m. The program was “Cylinder Escapements” by Chuck Sandager and Jeff Pomeroy. MCG officers were elected at the December meeting. Minutes The November 5, 2015, meeting was a visit to Carleton College in Northfield, Minnesota, with Mark Zach, Instrument Project Manager. Mark Zach, and Cindy Blaha gave a presentation on solar timekeeping and their fantastic clocks. The visit included a guided tour of their observatory with two E. Howard regulators, a Riefler astronomical regulator, and three telescopes. Also there was a tour of the instrument shop for test equipment manufacturing and the machine shop areas. For the September 2015 meeting, Terry Jones demonstrated the softening of a veneer sheet, making molds to conform to clock case contours and pressing the mold and veneer into location for a grain-aligned restoration. Richard Zielike hosted the meeting at his home and showed his clock repair shop. For Show and Tell, Richard Zielike shared a backsaw and flooring saw he made and sharpened at a Bad Axe Tool Works saw sharpening class. Terry Jones shared a pendulum bob he carved to match the lower leaf design of a cuckoo clock case. Garth Antila shared a crossreference list of various scales for grit sizes used on sandpaper. Garth also shared a selection of wood veneer samples from the Outwater Hardware Corporation of Lincoln Park, New Jersey, and the emails, addresses, and phone numbers for veneer and sandpaper suppliers. An 1870 Wm. Bond & Son #374 marine chronometer with only minute and seconds hands. 40 A 16" telescope viewing end. Note the hand wheel knobs for moving and holding position. They all have a unique feel for use in the dark. An E. Howard regulator used to keep time in the Goodsell Observatory and an E. Howard movement for cleaning. Cooking a sheet of veneer in a large kettle on the stove to soften it up so it can be pressed into molded form. January 2016 awci directory ADVERTISERS’ INDEX AWCI Courses 513-367-9800 BOARD OF DIRECTORS 8 Cas-Ker Co. 1-800-487-0408 46 Clocks Magazine 011 44 131 331 3200 21 Ferrell & Co., Inc. 1-800-523-7534 27 Jules Borel & Co. 816-421-6110 ...inside front cover NAWCC nawcc.org 45 Renata 800-527-0719 Richemont richemont.com ...back cover ...inside back cover Witschi Electronic Ltd. 011 32 352 05 00 25 Officers Fred T. White, CMW21: President [email protected] Drew Zimmerman, CW21: Vice President [email protected] Henry Kessler: Treasurer and IAB Director [email protected] Aaron Recksiek, CW21: Secretary [email protected] Immediate Past President Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 [email protected] Directors Joe Cerullo, CMW, CMC [email protected] Jason Champion, CW21: REC Director [email protected] Wesley Grau, CMW21 [email protected] Joshua Kroman, CW21 [email protected] David Kurdzionak: Affiliate Chapter Director [email protected] Craig Stone, CW21 [email protected] Peter Whittle [email protected] Fellows *Robert F. Bishop *James H. Broughton Fred S. Burckhardt Alice B. Carpenter David A. Christianson *George Daniels Wes Door Jerry Faier *Henry B. Fried *Josephine F. Hagans *Orville R. Hagans *Ewell D. Hartman *Harold J. Herman *J.M. Huckabee *Gerald G. Jaeger Jack Kurdzionak *Benjamin Matz *Robert A. Nelson *Hamilton E. Pease Archie B. Perkins Antoine Simonin *William O. Smith, Jr. Milton C. Stevens Dennis Warner *Marvin E. Whitney *Deceased American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Dr. Harrison, OH 45030 Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI 513-367-9800 Fax: 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com WE THANK THE IAB AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the institute and the industry. PTRC Inc. Supply Co., Inc. SWISStime care, Inc. 50 January 2016
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