This Month`s Focus: What`s New: New Equipment, Tools

Transcription

Times
Horological
TM
ADVANCING THE ART, SCIENCE & BUSINESS OF HOROLOGY
July 2012
Photo: Removing Hands
AMERICAN WATCHMAKERSCLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE
This Month’s Focus: What’s New:
New Equipment, Tools & Techniques
Advanced 21 Brand-Specific Courses
Swiss Repeater Q & A
Preparing & Using a Burnisher, Part 3
Archie Perkins: An Inspiration
Jules Borel & Co.
YOUR SOURCE for Horological Equipment
New!
New!
New!
New!
Jules Borel & Co.
1110 Grand Boulevard  Kansas City, Missouri 64106
Phone 800-776-6858  Fax 800-776-6862  julesborel.com
in this
issue
awci
news
classifieds
VOLUME 36, NUMBER 7, July 2012
features
Official Publication of the American
Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES
American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute (AWCI)
701 Enterprise Drive
Harrison, OH 45030
866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)
or 513-367-9800
Fax 513-367-1414
[email protected] • www.awci.com
Amy S. Dunn
Managing Editor & Advertising Manager
Ext. 307 [email protected]
James E. Lubic, CMW21
Executive Director/
Education & Technical Director
Thomas J. Pack, CPA
Operations Director
Thomas D. Schomaker, CMW21
Watchmaking Instructor/
Certification Coordinator
Daniela Ott
Education & Certification Administrator
Jennifer Bilodeau
Assistant Editor/
Marketing Coordinator
Elizabeth Janszen
Membership Coordinator
Horological Times
Advisory Committee
Jordan Ficklin, CW21 : Chairman
Ron Iverson, CMC
Karel Ebenstreit, CMW, CC21
David Fahrenholz
Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW
Robert D. Porter, CMW
Ron Landberg, CW21
Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written permission from
the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright ©2012 by the
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute.
Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted
by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive,
Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $149.00 per year
($8.50 per copy). Members subscription is $70.00 which is included with
annual dues of $149.00. Periodicals postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and
additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times,
701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030
2012 Convention and
Education Symposium,
Denver
Early Bird Discount
Extended!
pg. 4
From the Workshop
Jack Kurdzionak, CW21
pg. 8
What’s New
New Equipment, Tools,
Techniques and Convention Exhibitor Previews
Pg. 10
What’s New at
BASELWORLD
pg. 24
President’s Message
Doug Thompson, CW21
pg. 2
Executive Director’s
Message
James E. Lubic, CMW21
pg. 3
Buy, Sell, Trade, and
Employment
Opportunities
pg. 46
Advertiser’s Index
pg. 49
Industry Advisory
Board Members
pg. 49
Affiliate Chapter News
pg. 38
AWCI Event at JCK
Show in Las Vegas
pg. 40
&
technical education
certification
discussions
Preparing and Using
a Burnisher, Part 3
Laurie Penman
pg. 26
How to Make a Winding
Pinion and Clutch, Part 2
Robert Porter, CMC
pg. 30
AWCI Course and Exam
Schedule
pg. 42
Cover Photo: Dial protection before
carefully removing watch hands in
an Advanced 21 Series course. Photo
courtesy of Herman Mayer.
Making Flycutters, Part 2
John B. Shadle, CMC
pg. 32
Archie Perkins:
An Inspiration to
Modern Horologists
Ron Landberg, CW21
pg. 36
Questions & Answers
David Christianson,
CMW21, FAWI
pg. 43
Editorial material and letters of
opinion are invited, but reflect the
opinions of the authors only and
do not represent the views of the
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers
Institute (AWCI), its directors, officers
or employees. AWCI reserves the
right to edit all submitted materials
and is under no obligation to accept
any submitted materials for publication. The appearance, reference,
or advertisement of any product
or service in this publication shall
not be deemed an endorsement of
such products, methods or services
by AWCI, its directors, officers or
employees.
a message from the
president
DOUG THOMPSON, CW21
“I just want to
thank everyone who made
this day
necessary.”
Yogi Berra
I would like to address some of the concerns raised
by AWCI members over the past few months.
Board of Directors’ E-Mail
While individual director e-mail addresses are posted in the HT, there are two e-mail addresses ([email protected] and awciboard@awci.
com) that can be used to contact the entire Board
of Directors of AWCI at one time. One of these addresses forwards a copy to an archive for future reference. We have become aware of an intermittent
communication problem with this system and thus
far, this problem remains unsolved. If too much time
has passed after attempting to contact any specific Board member or the entire Board, please contact the AWCI office. We are working to correct the
problem. We apologize for any inconvenience.
Watch Repair Brokers
Any watch repair broker, retailer or consumer could
use the AWCI Referral Directory to locate a member’s contact information without AWCI’s knowledge, simply by keying in search criteria and examining the results. If a broker were to take advantage of
our Referral Directory, it would be the responsibility
of that supportive member to negotiate the value of
sharing the revenue generated from the repair with
the Broker. This would be similar to a jeweler working
with a trade shop; the Broker or the jeweler would
typically be responsible for creating demand and
dealing with the consumer, allowing the member to
focus upon their expertise—service. It is just another
way to market your services and is not for everyone.
The risks are different, and should be investigated.
AWCI as a 501(c)6 Non-Profit
IRS 501(c)6 organizations are designed to serve their
members. Membership services may include:
conferences
award programs
research projects
seminars
scholarship programs
community outreach
trade shows
fellowship programs
public relations
trade journals
maintenance of a library influence legislation
newsletters
website
political action groups
educational books
certification programs
social activities
It costs more than $1 million dollars a year to run
AWCI for the benefit of our members. In fact, membership dues only cover a small fraction of these
costs. Therefore, AWCI attempts to generate profits wherever possible from offering these services.
Non-profit organizations like AWCI also enter into
affinity agreements that they hope will benefit members and also generate additional revenue for the organization. These agreements are designed to offer
products and services used by members, often at a
discount. *Note: The NFL is also a 501(c) 6 non-profit
organization.
AWCI Logo
Any AWCI member, at any level, if in
good standing, may display the AWCI
logo at their business or on their website. When AWCI becomes aware of any
website displaying the AWCI logo without authorization, AWCI’s lawyer generates a cease and desist
notification.
That’s all for this month—more to come in the August issue. Let’s move forward together!
Board of Directors
Officers
Directors
Doug Thompson, CW21: President
[email protected]
Gene Bertram, CC
[email protected]
Ron Landberg, CW21:
Vice President
[email protected]
Manuel Yazijian
[email protected]
Henry Kessler: Treasurer
[email protected]
David Douglas, CW21: Secretary
[email protected]
Joseph Schrader, CMW21
[email protected]
Fred White, CMW21
[email protected]
Wes Grau, CMW21
Affiliate Chapter Director
[email protected]
Jason Ziegenbein, CW21
REC Director
[email protected]
Terry Kurdzionak
IAB Director
[email protected]
Mark Butterworth
[email protected]
2
Horological Times July 2012
a message from the
executive director
T
he final results for
the 2012 AWCI Board
of Directors Election
have been counted and certified by the auditing firm
of Rudler Professional Service Corporation. Two of
the candidates have been
re-elected and one is a newcomer to the AWCI Board of
Directors. A director’s term
is for a three years. We welcome:
• Mark Butterworth
• Jordan Ficklin, CW21
• Manuel Yazijian, CMW21
Congratulations to the three of you! I look forward to
working with you for the next three years.
I would like to thank everyone that were willing to be
candidates and were not elected this year. Thanks
goes out to each of you for volunteering to serve
AWCI as an elected official. I hope you will volunteer
to run again in the future.
On to other topics: The Trade Fair season for AWCI
is over and it was a very busy time. There were plenty of people at both the InStore Show in Chicago and
the JCK Show in Las Vegas. I would like to thank the
officials at both of these shows for sponsoring the
booth space for AWCI.
This year, at the Smart Jewelry Show by Instore and
InDesign Magazines in Chicago, I had the pleasure
of working with AWCI members Wes Grau and his
wife Beth on Saturday, and Dale Paxson on Sunday.
All live in the Chicago area. They all did a great job
representing AWCI, and I would like to thank them
one more time.
by james E. Lubic, cmw21
express my appreciation for all the volunteers, sponsors and employees who did so much to make this
year’s JCK show such a success. Additional volunteers would be Norm Basch, CW21, from Ohio, Bobby Ingram, CW21, from Alabama, Shanon Recksiek
from Utah, and Melissa Schomaker, Ohio.
Sponsors who not only made the recording of the
videos possible, but also played a big role by being a
part of our booth are:
• Gary Borel, Jena Borel and Kyle Woolworth of Jules Borel and Co.
• Henry Kessler of Sy Kessler Sales
• Robert Miller and Christopher Miller of
RepairTracker 2000
And finally, every employee in the AWCI office provided significant contributions…Instructor, Tom
Schomaker CMW21, and Daniela Ott, our Education
Administrator, both traveled to the JCK Show and
worked on site. Additionally, Amy Dunn, Jennifer Bilodeau, Elizabeth Janszen and Tom Pack all played
a behind-the-scenes role in making this year’s trade
show season a success for AWCI and its members.
Looking to the future, it’s AWCI’s goal to be a regular presenter at both the Smart Show and the JCK
Show. We hope to see you at these events next year!
awci new members
Welcome to these new or reinstated members!
Colorado
Dan Engle
Oregon
Stephen Tobusch
Florida
Micahel Ahsani
Pennsylvania
Brandon Williams
The JCK Show in Las Vegas was totally different this
year for AWCI than in previous years. This year, JCK
provided us with a wealth of real estate, and a lot of
technical support. Please see the article on Page 40,
by AWCI member Aaron Recksiek, CW21, and JCK
booth volunteer. Thanks goes to Aaron for taking
the time to volunteer and to write such an informative article.
Illinois
Ramiro DeRueda, Jr.
Louisiana
Nick Cascio
Michigan
Timothy Iseri
Texas
Susan Eisen
Russell Tilghman
Alex Martinovic
Ra Sao
Nikolaus Libby
Buckley H. Gooding
New York
Richard Basso
Washington
Kristen Triesch
Volunteers can’t be thanked enough for the role they
play within AWCI. So, not to be redundant to the kudos given by Aaron in his article, I would also like to
Oklahoma
Jill Sterling
David Ho
3
2012 Convention & Educational Symposium
Denver
AWCI REGISTRATION DISCOUNT
EXTENDED TO 7/20/12!
Hyatt Regency Denver Tech Center
2800 East Tufts Ave.
Denver, Co 80237
Guest Room Rates
See www.awci.com for current rates
(includes internet & self-parking)
Convention Registration Rates
Includes all 5 days and most meals**
AWCI Members early bird registration (through 7/20/12) - $449
Discounted Airport Shuttle
Members standard registration (after 7/20/12) - $499
Provided By SuperShuttle
Single-day registration - $250
REC Students – half price – early bird (through 7/20/12) - $225
REC Students – half price – standard (after 7/20/12) - $250
ELM Charitable Trust Dinner (sponsored by Richemont Group) - $75 (per person)
*Taxes not included.
** Includes convention-sponsored meals. See agenda for included meals schedule. Registration does not include
Guests: Plus-One early bird registration - $299 (per person, includes provided meals)
the ELM Trust Dinner on Friday, which is the annual awards dinner to raise funds for the institute.
Guests: Plus-One standard registration - $349 (per person, includes provided meals)
Register for Convention & Book Hotel at www.awci.com. Questions? Contact: [email protected], 732-422-8888
AGENDA
Wednesday 8/1– Members welcome to all governance
meetings. Breakfast - On your own
8:00-10:00 am - Education, Library & Museum Trust Meeting
10:15 am-12:15 pm - Perpetuation Fund Meeting
9:00 am - 12:00 pm - Affiliate Chapters Meeting
12:00 pm - 1:30 pm - Lunch (on your own)
1:30 - 3:30 pm - Board of Examiners Meeting
3:45 – 5:30 pm - Research & Education Council Meeting
Dinner - on your own
9 pm- 12 midnight - The Escapement Hospitality Room
Thursday 8/2
Breakfast - on your own
8:00 am - 12:00 pm - Industry Advisory Board Meeting
12:00 pm - 1:30 pm - Lunch - on your own
1:30 - 5:30 pm – Board of Directors Meeting
6:30 - 9:00 pm - Welcome Reception
9:00 pm - 12:00 midnight - The Escapement Hospitality Room
Friday 8/3
7 - 8:30 am - Breakfast Provided
8 - 8:45 am - Keynote Speaker: Stephen Forsey
9:00 am - 12:30 pm - Watchmaker Education - 3 classes
9:00 am - 12:30 pm - Clockmaker Education - 3 classes
12:30 - 1:30 pm - Lunch Provided
1:30 pm- 5:30 pm - Trade Fair
6:00 - 9:00 pm - Dinner Party at the Forney Museum of
Transportation. Featured Speaker: Archie Perkins Fundraising Dinner sponsored by Panerai Watches
9 pm- 12 midnight – The Escapement Hospitality Room
Saturday 8/4
7:00 - 8:30 am - Breakfast Provided
8:30 to 12:30 pm - Trade Fair & Archie Perkins book signing
12:30 - 1:30 pm - Lunch Provided
1:30 - 5:30 pm - Watchmaker Education - 3 classes
1:30 - 5:30 pm - Clockmaker Education - 3 classes
6:00 - 7:00 pm - President’s Reception
7:00 - 9:00 pm Rolex AWCI ELM Charitable Trust Awards Dinner
Sponsored by Rolex USA
9 pm - 12 midnight - The Escapement Hospitality Room
Sunday 8/5
8:00 - 9:30 a.m. - Farewell Breakfast (provided)
Transportation to events sponsored by Swatch Group
AWCI REGISTRATION DISCOUNT EXTENDED! REGISTER BY 7/20/12: www.awci.com
* Not applicable to room rates
4
Denver
OPPORTUNITIES TO LEARN!
EDUCATIONAL COURSES SCHEDULE
Friday, August 3rd:
Courses are
repeated to
give you
flexibility in
scheduling
Watchmaker Education (all 3 classes needed for CEU credit)
9:00 am – 10:05 am Water Resistance Testing For Protection And Profit
Wesley Grau, CMW21
10:10 am – 11:15 am Measure Twice, Cut Once
Thomas Schomaker, CMW21
11:20 am – 12:30 pm Quartz Electrical Tests: How They Can Help Your
Bottom Line
Jordan Ficklin, CW21
Clockmaker Education
9:00 am – 10:05 am Chelsea Clock, The Next 100 Years
Bob Ockenden, CMC
10:10 am – 11:15 am French Striking Clocks
Roland Iverson, CMC
Horology Business Session - For Watch & Clockmakers
11:20 am – 12:30 pm Marketing Your Horology Business
Mark Purdy, CMC
Saturday, August 4th:
Clockmaker Education
1:30 pm – 2:45 pm Chelsea Clock, The Next 100 Years
Bob Ockenden, CMC
2:30 pm – 3:45 pm French Striking Clocks, Roland Iverson, CMC
Horology Business Session - For Watch & Clockmakers
4:00 pm – 5:30 pm Marketing Your Horology Business
Mark Purdy, CMC
Watchmaker Education (all 3 classes needed for CEU credit)
1:30 pm – 2:45 pm Quartz Electrical Tests: How They Can Help Your
Bottom Line
2:30 pm – 3:45 pm Measure Twice, Cut Once,
4:00 pm – 5:30 pm Water Resistance Testing For Protection And Profit
Wesley Grau, CMW21
Bob Ockenden, CMC
Wesley Grau, CMW21
Mark Purdy, CMC
Roland Iverson, CMC
CONVENTION REGISTRATION DISCOUNT EXTENDED TO 7/20/12: www.awci.com
5
Another Reason to Go to Denver!
We have an activity that might interest you! Are
you a history buff? Well, as you may know from the
movie, “Unsinkable Molly Brown,” Molly was one of
the survivors of the Titanic disaster. She hailed from
Denver and her house has been made into a museum.
The Molly Brown House Museum is easily accessible
by the Tram which is a block from our host hotel.
Denver
I will make all the arrangements. Payment can be
made at the time of the visit. I will schedule a morning tour and then you can “do” lunch together (I’ll
have choices for you) after the tour.
Remember, you can read a book in your room, but
why not get out and enjoy the high altitude air while
in Denver! For more info visit: www.mollybrown.org
See you in Denver, Terry Kurdzionak
In commemoration of the 100th anniversary of the
Titanic disaster, the museum is conducting guided
“Titanic” tours. Tickets are $10 for adults, $8 for seniors and $6 for children ages 6-12. Advanced registration is required for these tours and I will assist
with arrangements.
The museum has recommended a few local restaurants for lunch which are handy to the museum. If
you do not plan to attend the educational session
and/or vendor fair on Friday, August 3rd, and are interested in attending the Molly Brown museum and
home, please email me, [email protected] and
Join us 8/3/12 for the Molly Brown House “Titanic Tours”
in Denver.
6
FREIGHT SAVINGS
SAVINGS PLAN
FREIGHT
PLAN
AWCI headquarters uses the Freight Savings Plan and saves over
$1,000.00 a year.
As an AWCI member, you can save up to:
l
29%* on select FedEx Express® services.
l
25%* on select FedEx Express international services. (U.S. customers only)
l
20% on select FedEx Ground® services.
l
20% on select FedEx Office® printing and copying services.
See us at the 2012 AWCI Convention in August!
AWCI Freight Savings Plan
Easy to use. Simple to sign up. Significant savings.
To enroll go to:
http://www.siriani.com/awcifsp
If you have questions, call service provider Siriani: 800-554-0005
toll-free phone: 800-554-0005
toll-free fax: 800-554-5049
e-mail: [email protected]
website: www.siriani.com
mailing address: 3505 Cadillac Ave., Ste. F3 Costa Mesa, CA 92626
* Includes a 5% discount for creating shipping labels for eligible FedEx Express® shipments using FedEx Ship Manager® at fedex.com or other FedEx® electronic shipping solutions.
FedEx discounts are off published rates and cannot be combined with other offers or discounts. Discounts are exclusive of any FedEx surcharges, premiums, minimums, accessorial charges or special handling fees and are not available to package consolidators.
For eligible FedEx® services and rates, contact your freight savings program provider, Siriani. See the applicable FedEx Service Guide for terms and conditions of service offerings and money-back guarantee programs. FedEx service marks used by permission.
from the
Shakespeare’s
Advice for
Accounts
Receivable
A
ccounts receivables look good on paper, but
may not be worth the cost of the paper. Receivables are debts owed by one entity to
another. A recent article in The Wall Street Journal
highlighted a growing problem for small businesses
working for much larger firms. Many large firms are
deliberately delaying their payments to small vendors and those vendors were reluctantly accepting
these delayed payments. The large firms conserve
cash by delaying their customary 30-day payments
to 60 or 90 days, and sometimes even longer.
One self-employed website designer reported that his client
owed him $6,600 and took over
400 days to pay the bill. He had
to borrow funds for a year just
to cover that one receivable.
Two-thirds of small businesses
surveyed reported an increasing
problem with overdue invoices.
Delaying payments make the
larger firms’ balance sheets look
better as they are literally hoarding cash loaned to them, at no
interest, by their captive vendors. Notice the word
“captive.” These small vendors, all with annual revenue under five million dollars, and most far smaller
than that, face a dilemma. If they pressure the overdue clients for payment, they fear the loss of that
client’s business, which can be a disaster for a small
business, especially one that heavily depends upon a
large volume of business generated by only a few clients. The loss of one major client can jeopardize the
health of a small business. If they continue to work
with the client, they may have to wait longer and longer to collect for their services with the possibility of
never collecting the overdue debt.
Clients may walk away from their debt, fully understanding that a small vendor cannot afford the cost
workshop
by Jack Kurdzionak, CW21
of legal collection proceedings. If a client declares
bankruptcy, many of its small vendors will fall into
the class of unsecured creditors. Those creditors
generally receive little or nothing from the bankruptcy proceedings.
Why mention all this to watchmakers? Over the
past few years, several members have spoken to
me about their losses and in a few cases, the losses
have been over ten thousand dollars. That may not
be much money to a Wall Street trader, but it represents a substantial part of the annual income of most
watchmakers I know.
A couple of years ago there was a well-known local chain of watch specialty stores in a major metropolitan area. This store carried over thirty-five lines
of high-quality watches and did over $20 million per
year turnover. This well-known chain even had a U.S.
president on their list of prestigious clients. The store
advertised in multiple media outlets and you could
not miss its advertising blitz at the international airport. The public’s perception of this store was very
favorable in light of its advertising campaign and its
public relations department. In
reality, the store operated as outlined in the Wall Street Journal’s
article. They paid their large, important creditors somewhat on
time. If not, those critical large
vendors would halt shipments of
watches. On the other hand, they
began to stretch out their payments to their smaller vendors
and that included a number of independent watchmakers. At first,
the delay was only a few days,
but as time passed the delay
stretched from weeks into months. Some watchmakers wisely decided to stop working with this store
while others continued and tolerated the delayed
payments in the hope that the situation would improve. That proved to be a bad decision. Suddenly,
the chain of stores closed without notice one morning and the owners quietly fled the country.
A few days passed, the secured creditors seized the
store and hired receivers who filed for bankruptcy
liquidation. They sold off the assets and divided the
proceeds amongst the secured creditors who received a percentage of the amount they were owed.
The unsecured creditors, including several watchmakers, received little or nothing. The watchmakers
8
from the
workshop
by Jack Kurdzionak, CW21
who decided to quit working with this store long before the bankruptcy did not lose any money. They
moved on and found other stores willing to pay on
time for their services.
Bankruptcy liquidation literally is the death and burial of a business. Fortunately, most businesses
remain solvent, but solvent businesses can
be very slow to pay their small business
vendors. Because of this, the independent trade watchmaker needs to take a
few steps to protect his own business
and his income.
Remember the advice Polonius gave
to his son in Hamlet: “Neither a borrower, nor a lender be; For loan oft
loses both itself and friend.” After four
hundred years, this is still sound advice,
especially the warning not to make a loan.
It is very easy to make a bad loan and very
difficult to collect a bad debt. What steps can
a watchmaker take to insure payment?
to the credit card issuer, but you will be paid.
One watchmaker said to me that he would
rather have 97% of something than 100% of nothing.
5. If your trade accounts have been regular with
their payments, you may wish to continue
offering credit to them. Make sure you monitor all of your receivables and note anychanges made to the payment schedule without your permission. A sincere
client will ask permission to delay a
payment due to some unforeseen circumstance. The others will just start
making late payments. The warning signs will be there. They include
late payments, increasingly longer
payment dates, and worst of all, bad
checks. If you see any warning signs, it
will be time to re-examine your receivables policy and modify it in your favor.
There was a man, now deceased, in the Midwest
who repaired watchcases. Over the course of a de
1. Watchmakers with ten to twenty small accade or so, he repaired numerous cases for us. Re
counts are always far better than a watchgardless of how much work we sent to him, he nev
maker who services a few large accounts.
er extended credit to us. We would send the case,
If you have twenty small accounts, the loss of he would send an estimate, we would mail a check
one or two will not cause a financial problem. with our approval, and he would repair the case
If you have two very large accounts, the loss and return it. After a few years, we short-circuited
of one can be a disaster to your small busithis procedure. Since we only sent case work pre
ness. Diversify your customer base and
approved by our customers, we began enclosing a
remember the old adage to “Never put all of $100 bill with each case. Not surprisingly, he quickly
your eggs in one basket.”
repaired those cases and returned them with an invoice marked paid. He also enclosed our change, in
2. Some watchmakers will not deliver any repair cash, with the repaired case. Before he passed away,
until paid for in full. That means cash, check
I asked him why he did not accept open accounts. He
or credit card payment at the time of
coyly remarked that he had an arrangement with his
delivery. In the old days, they called it C.O.D. bank. “The bank would not repair watchcases if he
In most states the law is on your side in this
agreed not to loan money.” I guess he was a student
matter; you have a lien on the repaired item
of Shakespeare in his younger days. t
until you receive payment.
3. Some watchmakers demand a deposit by
cash, check or credit card before beginning
any work with the balance to be paid C.O.D.
4.
Almost every retail store now has a corporate
credit card. If you provide trade repairs for
stores, consider having them pay by credit
card if they find it inconvenient to pay by
check. Yes, you will pay a processing fee
DID YOU KNOW?
You can get immediate feedback on the
parts and information you need by joining AWCI’s Technical Discussion & Parts
Forum. Go to: www.awci.com/forums/
9
INTRODUCTION
TO “WHAT’S NEW”
FEATURE SECTION
If you haven’t registered yet, better hurry! Go to
www.awci.com and click on the “Convention Registration button.”
Amy Dunn, Editor, Horological Times
[email protected]
“What’s New” is the editorial focus for this issue of
HT magazine. In the following pages you’ll see a variety of tools, equipment and techniques that cover
a range of advancements over the last several years
in the horology industry. These topics are of interest
to clockmakers and watchmakers.
Look for this icon to see the companies exhibiting at the 2012 Convention Trade Fair:
In addition, you’ll see previews of some of the new
equipment and tools that will be on display at the
2012 Convention and Educational Symposium in
Denver. The convention Trade Fair will be on Friday,
August 3rd from 1:30 pm to 5:30 pm and on Saturday, August 4th from 8:30 am to 12:30 pm.
Zenith Radiant Cleaner #777
high performance solution
cleans and shines delicate
watch and clock parts.
The "Ultimate" Hair
Spring Cleaner leaves hair
springs perfectly clean
and dry with no oily film.
Unique Soak & Coat
Jar for immersing and
coating delicate watch
parts with Epi-Kote.
230.022 $42.50
820.512 $18.00
150.015 $18.00
Epi-Kote is a surface
treatment to prevent
spreading of oil to
unwanted watch and
clock parts.
420.130 30ml $17.95
420.131 50ml 34.95
420.132 100ml 59.95
Call 1.800.487.0408 Fax 1.800.487.5848
Shop our web site: casker.com
IMPORTERS/DISTRIBUTORS - 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR CINCINNATI OH 45231
10 Horological Times July 2012
Greubel Forsey Introduces
the GMT Watch
Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey is the Keynote
Speaker at the AWCI 2012 Convention and Educational Symposium.
According to Greubel Forsey, this timepiece marks a
first for the company and the history of GMT watches. After exploring, inventing, and developing new
mechanisms in the world of the tourbillon over the
last decade, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey
have now combined it with a new complication, the
GMT, which they have interpreted in their own way.
With this timepiece, Robert Greubel and Stephen
Forsey have focused their energy on indicating a
second time zone, a complication traditionally denoted by GMT (Greenwich Mean Time), the historical
reference meridian for navigators.
beyond the conventional means of displaying a second time zone. The GMT watch features a three-dimensional temporal representation: A rotating terrestrial globe offering a truly original view of time
all over the world. This technical marvel provides us
with a completely new way of perceiving different
time zones.
Nestled in a prominent position at 8 o’clock, the “flying” globe is ingeniously secured at just one end of
its rotational axis—the South Pole—allowing for optimal views of the intricate surface that has been crafted on the strong, yet lightweight, titanium sphere.
While the globe makes one complete rotation every
24 hours anticlockwise (the Earth’s natural rotational
direction) the position of the continents can be neatly cross-referenced with the 24-hour, day-and-night
indicator on the equatorial chapter ring.
The night-time hemisphere—18:00 to 6:0— is indicated by a blackened half of the ring around the globe,
while the daytime hemisphere—6:00 to 18:00—is indicated by a whitened portion. The latter is enhanced
by a lateral window cleverly integrated into the caseband, which lets in light to symbolize daytime on the
globe, and reveals more of the southern hemisphere.
A highly-practical complication and one greatly-valued by connoisseurs, a second time zone is of particular benefit for globetrotting business professionals,
frequent leisure travelers and those with family and
friends around the world.
True to their philosophy and continuous quest for
perfection and innovation, Greubel Forsey has gone
11
time disc and radiantly lighting up the movement of
this stunning timepiece.
The GMT is reinforced by the hallmarks of Greubel
Forsey’s renowned superlative fine finishing and attention to detail. The full range of traditional handfinishing techniques have been employed including
graining, beveling, polishing, lapping, frosting and
flat black polishing.
So if it is midday in England, the viewer can see at a
glance that it is the beginning of the afternoon in Geneva or Rome, that the sun is only just rising on the
East Coast of the United States and that the darkness of night has fallen over the Far East. Just one
quick glance is enough to know the time anywhere
in the world. The intuitively interpreted globe is complemented at 10 o’clock by the 12-hour second time
zone dial giving a precise indication of the time in a
designated second country or city and is easily adjusted using the quick-set, dual-function pusher on
the caseband at 10 o’clock.
Cascading clockwise around the dial-side are the
main indications comprising a principal hour-minute
dial at one o’clock, on top of which is a small seconds
dial at three o’clock, while at four o’clock is a power
reserve indicator.
On the technical side, the movement consists of:
• 436 components, 87 of which are used in the tourbillon cage, weighing 0.36 grams
• Two coaxial mainspring barrels connected in a series provide a power reserve of 72 hours
• The movement is equipped with a variable
inertia balance beating at 21,600vph/3Hz
• Phillips terminal curve balance spring
Plates and bridges are hand-finished, frosted, spotted, beveled, straight-grained, matt-lapped and flatblack polished. The dial is in 18k gold and the movement is housed in a white gold case of 43.50 mm in
diameter with a height of 16.14 mm. The case is completed by domed sapphire crystals for the dial-side,
display-back and lateral window, all treated with anti-reflective coating. The timepiece is complemented
by a hand-sewn black alligator leather strap with a
Greubel Forsey folding clasp in white gold.
To see stunning close-ups and read more about this
watch, visit the dedicated GMT microsite at http://
novelty.greubelforsey.com/
The specially-developed movement of the GMT features the 25° inclined Tourbillon 24 Secondes cage,
one of Greubel Forsey’s major patented inventions.
In addition to its superb chronometric virtues and reliability, its compact size allows space for the other
complications.
Turning over the GMT reveals the beautifully-crafted
“worldtime” disc bearing the names of 24 cities, each
representing one of the different global time zones.
Aligning the relevant city with the local hour on the
outer chapter ring—or inner ring for cities with summer time—sets the dial-side globe in the correct position.
Completing the display-back is a gleaming sun, providing a visual reference for midday on the world
12
Butterworth Clocks
What’s New in the World of Clocks? Butterworth
Clocks has developed a new set of drill bits for those
who use a drill press or hand drill in KWM® bushing
work. These drill bits, made in the U.S., are of the
best quality molybdenum HSS steel, and are specially modified by Butterworth Clocks for drilling brass,
the company notes.
Each one is individually tested and is 135-degree split
point. They are available in reamer sizes I, II, III, IV,
IVa, and V and can be sold per set of 6 or individually. Butterworth Clocks also has the traditional reamers in both KWM and Bergeon® sizes, and in the KWM
reamer size modified to fit in the Bergeon bushing
tool.
In addition, Butterworth Clocks also has the set of
modified drill bits for bringing the bushing flush with
the plate and producing a beautiful oil sink. There
is an instructional video on using the drill press for
bushing work on www.youtube.com under “Butterworth1725.” For more information, please e-mail:
[email protected].
Cas-Ker
Company
Cas-Ker Company now offers new assortments for
clasps and crystals which will be shown at the AWCI
Trade Fair. For example, the selection of large mineral glass crystals pictured is available in assortments
for crystal sizes up to 46.0 mm in diameter. These
sizes are ideal for servicing today’s larger watches.
Cas-Ker Company will be represented at the convention by Rick Foster, Operations Manager. Rick will be
on hand to demonstrate products and answer questions about any of the company’s range of products
and services. In addition to the assortments, Cas-Ker
will be exhibiting a full line of Bergeon hand tools.
Many watchmakers consider the horological tools
produced by this Swiss manufacturer to be some of
the best tools in the business, and Cas-Ker Company
is a distributor for Bergeon. Other products exhibited will include tools such as the original Jaxa case
wrench, the ultimate case knife #6987, and popular
Swiss-made screwdriver sets. For more information
visit: www.casker.com.
Bergeon 2819-08 Jaxa Case Wrench.
Would You Like To Be A Contributing Writer?
Bergeon 6987 Case Knife
If you submit a technical article that is published with
us, you will recieve an appreciation fee. If you are a
watchmaker or clockmaker and have never written for
us before, we welcome you to give it a try! We cherish our current writers and welcome even more new
articles! See www.awci.com/horologicaltimes
New Domed Mineral
Glass Crystal
Assortment.
13
HURRY! Register by 7/20/12 for “early bird” registration discount!
14
Eckcells
Mile Hi Clock Supplies
Eckcells strives to meet the needs of the bench
watchmaker and they will have numerous “suitcasefriendly” items for sale. To give a history of the company, Terry Kurdzionak purchased the battery portion of a local distributor/jeweler, Eckstein Imports
in 1998. Mr. Eckstein retired and it was decided to
use the first part of his name, ECK, and add CELLS
(batteries) to create the business name: ECKCELLS.
Mile Hi Clock Supplies
will be exhibiting a range
of equipment and supplies for clockmakers. Two precision tools you can
view at their booth are their Keystone brand Clockmakers Depthing Tool and their Clock Mainspring
Winder.
In the beginning, the company carried batteries only,
and then the business really began to grow, adding
watch parts, tools and movements. Now the company needs more space and will be moving to a new
location in New Hampshire. Eckcells will continue
to be open for business throughout the transition.
Under the new company QUICK-FIT, LLC, Terry and
Jack Kurdzionak will also continue to do business as
Eckcells. For information go to: www.eckcells.com.
I cannot wait to see those Rocky Mountains in person! What a fantastic place for the AWCI annual convention. The trade fair is a good opportunity to meet
your suppliers…to put a face on the other end of that
phone call, fax or e-mail. Plus, there will be watch supplies for sale, and equipment for demonstration and
sale. The trade fair also gives the vendors a chance to
network with each other.
The unique CDT-2 Depthing Tool allows the clockmaker to observe, adjust, measure, prove, duplicate
and troubleshoot almost every application of gearing in clockworks without having to partially assemble a movement. This is possible because the depthing tool holds the clock wheel and its mating pinion
in the same position they will occupy in a completed
clock.
According to the company, their Keystone CMW-2
Mainspring Winder is simple, versatile and safe. To
see the numerous features of this device, visit their
AWCI Trade Fair booth, or view it online at www.
milehiclocksupplies.com.
I encourage you to get to this convention! You’ll make
new friends, learn new things, and enjoy the reception and our infamous “hospitality suite” run by member, Ron Price, his wife Loretta, and his convention
committee. Then there’s the ELM Trust dinner, the
education classes for watchmakers and clockmakers,
and finally, our Awards Dinner on Saturday evening.
We won’t be in “St. Louie,” but you can still “Meet Me
at the Fair” in the “Mile-High City!”
Terry Kurdzionak
Convention Hospitality Committee
Keystone CMW-2 Mainspring Winder.
The Mile High City
15
Solutions for Electric Clocks
Designed to Run on a
Different Voltage or Hertz
By Jay Holloway, Capital Area Watchmaker
and Clockmaker Guild, Texas
As a person who performs horological appraisals,
along with clock repair and case restoration, you
speak to a lot of people from many walks of life. I
find their needs may vary, but they have one item in
common: A passion for a clock. In most situations,
enthusiasts like a mechanical clock, but we are finding more and more, many like an electric clock. Some
of the electric clocks are European or Asian in origin,
once belonging to a relative which brings back fond
memories to the person.
A key issue with corded electric clocks made in the
United States when compared to those made in Europe or Asia, is in the power source and frequency
rating of the power. North American products use
110 volts with 60 Hz while Europe, Asia and South
America use 220 volts with 50 Hz.
run accurately in any country no matter the country
of origin or country of use. The product is called a
1930 Frequency-Precise Power Inverter for Clocks
and Timing Devices.
There is a second item I found to help customers
who see neat electric clocks and buy them, only to
find out they were “slave clocks,” which means they
advanced only when sent an “impulse” from a master clock. Again, these clocks were found in offices,
factories, schools, etc. Since the client does not have
the master clock, they have a slave clock that will
not run. The solution is a product called the Model
1900W-UNV Modular Clock Winder. It will send an
impulse every minute to advance the slave clock
while keeping it accurate to within 15 seconds per
year.
We hope clockmakers find these products useful
when encountering customer questions and challenges in electric clock repair. Visit www.cawcg.org
for more information.
What causes a problem? It’s the difference in voltage and Hz. Clocks that run from a power cord off
the country’s power supply will keep accurate time
because the motors within the clocks synchronously
“lock” to a frequency within the power line.
What does the difference in Hertz mean? If a clock
designed for 50 Hz (manufactured in Europe or Asia)
is powered here in the U.S., the clock will gain time
at a rate of 12 minutes per hour! The reverse is also
true for American clocks being run outside the North
America: They will run too slow.
Model 1930 Frequency-Precise Power Inverter with adapter.
The next obvious issue is the power line rating: 110
vs. 220. Products designed for 110 power will not
handle the higher voltage without causing a hazard.
Conversely, products designed for 220 do not run
using the 110 power.
A solution was found when an electrical engineer
and clock enthusiast developed a product that will
take a 110 volt—60 Hz current and convert it to a 220
volt—50 Hz current. Vice-versa, it is able to take a
220—50 Hz current and convert it to a 110 – 60 Hz
current. This allows a clock to be taken anywhere and
The 1900W-UNV Modular Clock Winder.
16
Gaber & Company USA
Extra large is now extra stylish in the watch world! To
keep up with the demand for these large sizes, Gaber
& Company USA has designed red plastic case-back
gaskets in extra-large sizes. The gaskets are Swiss
made with measurements of 0.58 mm wide by 0.90
mm tall. The new sizes available from Gaber range
from 33.5 mm through 43.0 mm wide in diameter.
These gaskets can be purchased in 20-piece assortments or sold individually.
The common cotter pin used to hold band links together are now made in wider sizes to accommodate today’s new, wider metal watch bracelet size
adjustments. These cotter pins are now available
from Gaber and Company USA at 0.90 mm thick
and range from 23.0 mm to 32.0 mm in length. The
cotter pins come in a 45-piece assortment or refills
of 10 per size. For more information, please e-mail:
[email protected].
Extra-large cotter pins for metal watch bracelets.
Extra-large case-back gaskets.
If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the
latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue
includes The Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces certain to be of interest to collectors and connoisseurs. CHRONOS includes interesting
stories about the world of automobiles and racing. Coverage of outstanding museum exhibits,
fashion trends, and travel stories all add to the enjoyment and satisfaction of this unique lifestyle
magazine.
oOne Year (6 issues) $30.00
oTwo Years (12 issues) $ 55.00
oThree Years (18 issues) $80.00
Foreign Subscriptions
U.S. Dollars Only
oOne Year (6 issues) $48.00
oTwo Years (12 issues) $90.00
oThree Years (18 issues) $116.00
______
Check or Money Order Enclosed
______
Charge my Visa or MasterCard
Card No. _______________________________________________
Exp. Date: ______________Security Code: __________________
Signature;_____________________________________________
Name: (please print) _______________________________________________________
Address: ________________________________________________________________
City: ________________________________ State:_________________ Zip: ________
Country: _______________________________Phone: __________________________
Mail to:
CHRONOS
257 Adams Lane
Hewlett, NY 11557 USA
17
Jules Borel & Co.
According to Gary Borel,
Jules Borel & Co. takes
customer ideas and requests seriously. So seriously, in fact, that many times they have invented
or modified tools and machines to provide better
equipment for the industry. The company’s latest
innovation, which will be shown at the AWCI convention, falls into this category. It’s a single vacuum
pump system with a unique electrical fitting that allows the operation of two bench vacuum setups for
vacuuming watch movements and crystals. In effect,
you double the capacity of one pump and avoid the
need to purchase a second pump, which can mean
significant savings.
Gary Borel heard this request from a customer and
set to work to create this dual watch vacuum cleaning system. To produce the AC6100/V2 Double
Bench Vacuum System, he used a USA-made vacuum pump, directed the development of the new
electrical component, and equipped it with Swissmade tubing and stands. He believes this combination represents the “best of both worlds.”
In addition to showing the double-bench vacuum
system, the company will be exhibiting timing machines, water testing equipment, and the new Revelator R1 testing machine by Roxer SA. For more information visit: www.julesborel.com
Sy Kessler Sales – Renata –
GemOro
GemOro Superior Instruments introduces its new
AuRACLE AGT2 Mobile Gold and Platinum Tester.
The AGT2 is the world’s first precious metals tester
that works with the Apple iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch
and Android devices. The AGT2 uses the same proven, patented technology as the AGT1, which is recognized internationally.
The GemOro AuRACLE AGT2 tests all gold colors
between 6-24K, tests platinum, and also identifies
non-gold, gold filled or plated as NA when easy
steps are followed. It features two dynamic userchangeable displays: a digital bar graph with large,
alphanumeric readout and an analog meter readout.
Users can instantly save test result history for tracking, and optional Apps will be available for screen
customization and increased productivity.
Both the AGT1 and new AGT2 use no messy gels,
no dangerous acids or staining chemical. It will be
available in the fall
of 2012 through Sy
Kessler Sales. For
additional information go to www.
gemoroproducts.
com.
The company will
also be displaying Renata batteries and a variety of
watch tools at the
AWCI convention.
The new GemOro mobile gold and platinum
tester for Apple and
Android devices.
The new Double Bench Vacuum System.
18
Tampa, FL
Micropower
Battery
Company
Micropower Battery Company is excited to exhibit at
this year’s AWCI conference in Denver. Established
in 1990, MBC, since 1993, is the lead importer and
master distributor for Sony brand watch batteries in
the Americas. We carry the entire Sony microbattery
product line of silver oxide, lithium coin and alkaline
button cell batteries. Sony was the first manufacturer to commercialize mercury-free silver oxide batteries and they have won awards for their “MF” product
design. Their design uses an array of three key discoveries which have been patented, and their product quality makes absolutely no sacrifices to battery
capacity, shelf life or to their superior anti-leakage
design. To date, Sony has produced more than five
billion watch batteries. Presently, their annual production volume approaches 400 million cells and
they are the largest producer of silver oxide watch
batteries in Japan.
All of Sony’s silver oxide and alkaline button cells are manufactured in Japan. Product
is available in 5-piece
tear-strip packaging. We
are bringing extremely
competitive pricing directly to the watch repair shop dealer. You
can buy directly from
the importer—stop by
our booth and speak to
Nikki Floyd, our inside
sales representative, for
a price list and sample
of our product. All orders generally ship the
same day. You can expect and demand only
the best service from Micropower Battery Company. Our e-commerce
site, www.microbattery.
com has been live since
2001 and we can accept
orders 24/7.
Your Horological Source Since 1969
Available Online at
www.LivesaysInc.com
Set of 6 Hands for ETA/Valjoux 7750
This is a full set of
6 replacement hands
to fit ETA/Valjoux
7750 movements.
The set includes one
each minute, hour and
center second hands,
in addition to three
remote dial hands. The hands are a shiny steel
color, with white luminous compound strip in the
minute and hour hands.
Length:
• Minute = 12.5mm from center
• Hour = 8.5mm from center
• Center Second = 13.5mm from center
• Remote = 3.5mm from center
Stock #HAN-7750
$19.95 per set
Now available, domed sapphire watch crystals
from 28.0mm to 33.0mm in 0.5mm increments.
28.0mm thru 29.5mm
$40.00 each
30.0mm thru 31.0mm
$46.00 each
31.5mm thru 33.0mm
$49.00 each
Prices subject to change without notice.
7/12
Phone Orders (800) 476-2715
Fax Orders (800) 476-8016
Email: [email protected]
Online Catalog: www.LivesaysInc.com
19
Magnum Power Products
Member, Bill Dugger, has
developed a new, affordable way to test watches
for leaks. His company,
Magnum Power Products, Inc., states that their new
Watch Leak Test System uses a vacuum bubble testing method that any competent repairperson can
operate.
The product is manually operated. Using distilled
water to test a watch case for leaks, the lid is fit onto
the jar and the handle is attached and pumped several times to create a vacuum. The repairperson visually inspects the watch part for bubbles indicating
leaks.
The company notes that a properly-tested watch
will be safe for daily use in normal activities, such as
bathing or swimming, to depths of 12 meters. For
more information contact: [email protected].
Close-Up of Gauge Indicating Vacuum Pressure—Measures up to
1 Atmos.
“Spare Parts, Tools, And Supplies
Sold By Professional Watchmakers
To Professional Watchmakers”
WHEN YOU SEE
THIS TRADEMARK
ON A MOVEMENT…
…You have a Sellita SW200 movement and need a repair kit
from Eckcells. Each kit contains 18 commonly-needed spare parts.
Refills are always available. We stock all other movement parts
needed to repair these quality movements used by Tag Heuer,
Movado, Raymond Weil, Oris, and many other fine brands.
(NOTE: Most ETA parts do not fit these movements.)
Order Yours Now for $99.95
(a savings of $6.15 if purchased separately)
eckcells
379 Main St • Stoneham, MA 02180
1-781-438-3208 • [email protected]
The Watch Leak Test System from Magnum Power Products.
Utilizes vacuum bubble testing method.
20
www.eckcells.com
We accept all major credit cards
awci
health insurance
news
HEALTH INSURANCE PROGRAMS FOR AWCI MEMBERS
Association Health Programs is the provider of the NEW and EXCLUSIVE
health program including health insurance, long-term care insurance, life
insurance, disability income and more. These offerings are available to all
members, their families and employees. To inquire about the program,
please use the link below or contact us at: 888-450-3040.
Health Insurance
• Individual & Families
• Group Insurance
• Health Savings Accounts
• Dental
Long-Term Care
Insurance
• Life Insurance
• Disability Income
• Critical Illness
• Annuities & More
www.associationpros.com
21
Expand your profit opportunities through a strong brand that resonates
with shoppers and has a complete portfolio of products
don’t just take our word for it…
TM
energizer.com
*Actual rating found on Energizer.com
©2012 Energizer
Energizer, Energizer Bunny design and other marks are trademarks of Energizer.
See page 42 for course dates
What Members Have to Say About This New Class...
“The Advanced 21 series class on Rolex Caliber 3035 was fantastic. The new technical guide
was worth the price of the class. Tom and the staff, along with Rolex, created a tech guide
with larger and more detailed pictures that makes ordering parts much easier now that
screws must be individually ordered. It was very well thought out. The class provided great
insight into the current factory service center practices and procedures. I am not working
in an authorized Rolex store, but I do work for Rolex dealers and these series of classes are
my path to get the factory training the authorized stores’ in-house watchmakers are
getting. Thanks go to AWCI and Tom Schomaker for working to bring these higher level
classes to me. I appreciate the extra effort it
the material presented.” - Jeff Forslund, CW21,
Lake Country Jewelers Ltd., Pewaukee, WI
“Working with AWCI from the beginning to
the present has been a wonderful experience. I recently took the AWCI Advanced 21
Series/Rolex caliber 3035 class from Tom
Schomaker. I have serviced this movement
many times before, and I had good results
with no big complaints. So, I thought, “What’s this Advanced 21 Series class going to teach
me that I don’t already know?” Boy, was I in for a surprise! Just receiving the tech info that
AWCI and Rolex put together was great! Since I took the class, I have opened up this manual for help many times. It’s been a great watchmaking resource.
The 3035 class has offered in-depth information on this caliber that helps in checking endshakes, making adjustments, provides the proper servicing method, proper oiling, timing
adjustment and guidance on properly polishing the case and band. Tom Schomaker has
done a wonderful job on teaching these steps in detail. I went to this class with limited
knowledge of the 3035 and by Friday, I walked away gaining 100% more information than
I had walking in. I want to thank AWCI and Rolex for giving CW21s the chance and
opportunity to receive such wonderful knowledge!” - Asad Khan , CW21,
www.watchrepairshoponline.com
23
What’s New at
BASELWORLD
2012
A
ccording to a release from BASELWORLD, the
luxury watch market remains strong: “Within a tough environment, the watch industry
is holding up well—and even setting new records.
Baselworld 2012 continued onward from an excellent
year in 2011 that saw 29.8 million watches exported,
representing a total value of 19.3 billion Swiss francs
. . . [The] demand for luxury products continues to
increase and the potential of certain emerging markets, including Asia and the Middle East, favors its
development.“
The exhibition moved up their dates this year to
March. Attendance was 104,300 with 1,815 exhibitors
from 41 countries. Next year will see the opening of
a new hall complex designed by the Basel-based architects Herzog & de Meuron, who also designed the
famous Bird’s Nest national stadium in Beijing. Next
year the event will once again be held in April, running from April 25 through May 2, 2013.
AWCI Member Gives His
Impression of the 2012 Show
“What I saw at BASELWORLD this year was the continuing trend towards the larger, more bulky watch
styles. This is important to us as a material supplier.
We need to have products in inventory ready to deliver, along with the parts and tools necessary for
these larger sizes.
throughout the country also schedule meetings and
demonstrations at their offices coinciding with the
timing of BASELWORLD. Although we always visit
the Basel exhibition, it’s also very beneficial for us to
spend time with the horological suppliers not exhibiting at the fair.”
Chris Gaber
Gaber & Company, USA
A Look at Two Exhibitors’ Displays
Greiner Vibrograf
This Swiss manufacturer produces a range of equipment
for the watchmaking industry including timing instruments, demagnetizers, cleaning equipment, tools, polishing
The new Polimaxx multi- machines and more. At BASELpurpose polishing ma- WORLD they introduced sevchine with 0.5 HP motor
eral new pieces of equipment
from Greiner Vibrograf.
and also demonstrated the
Chrono Touch watch tester with simple touch-screen
control, now in the prototype stage.
One item of interest this year is their new 2-speed
Polimaxx polishing machine. It’s a multi-purpose unit
with many sophisticated technical features. The company states the motor on this unit is maintenancefree and is the most powerful in its class at 0.5 HP.
The triple filter system provides > 90% filtration of
particulate matter. Additionally, models will soon be
available with infinitely variable speed control.
I also see the industry paying more attention to ladies styles. Some of today’s ladies watches are larger, similar to the sizes found on men’s timepieces of
yesterday’s fashion trends. They are also including
on ladies styles chronograph functions previously
found exclusively on gents movements. There are
still others that are the more traditional smaller, refined types. Overall, this represents a broader range
of choices for the women’s market.
It also seems BASELWORLD has turned into more
than just the horological fair in Basel. Our suppliers
The Greiner Vibrograf exhibit space at BASELWORLD 2012.
24
Witschi Electronic Ltd.
This 65-year old Swiss firm is offering a new line of
specialty equipment for jewelers, service centers or
independent shops to generate additional income.
The company says this lower priced equipment is designed to be easy to operate, yet it is made with the
quality and performance the industry expects. The
two new instruments are their ChronoCube®, a testing device for mechanical watches, and the ChronoProof® for measuring water resistance. No special
prior knowledge is needed to operate this equipment,
yet it’s a way to guarantee customers their watch is
fully intact after a successful repair or battery change.
Witchi is taking a new path in marketing these measuring devices. The line will be sold in the company’s
online shop at: www.witschi.com. t
The compact ChronoProof® with integrated compressor enables
the user to reliably seal test all types of wristwatches quickly. No
parameterization or programming is needed—insert the watch,
close the test chamber and everything takes place automatically.
BUSHINGS!
KWM SIZE IN BRONZE
$4.00/ 20 pc PACK
KWM SIZE IN BRASS
$8.00/ 50 pc PACK
No min order. No small parts surcharge. Mailing $2 US/CAN, $5 Internatl.
Butterworth Clocks, Inc.
Urs Haeni, Witschi Sales Manager, at recent BASELWORLD
exhibition.
5300 59th Ave. West Muscatine, IA 52761
Phone: 563-263-6759 Fax: 563-263-0428
E-mail: [email protected]
25
technical discussions
BY LAURIE PENMAN
Preparing and
Using a Burnisher,
Part 3
Pivot Turning and Tool Sharpening
The Grindstone
S
harpening tools make use of abrasives as we
have seen in the prior article. The grindstone
is an abrasive, as well. Let us look more closely
at the use and maintenance of this machine. The individual grits are cutting tools and the design of the
wheel is constructed using several criteria. The effectiveness of the grits depends upon them maintaining their cutting edges until the material they are
cutting blunts them, whereupon they break off, exposing fresh, sharp grits. The main factors that are
considered when making a grinding wheel are:
• The
• The
• The
• The
• The
Figure 16
material that it is intended to grind
hardness and size of the grits
binding that holds them together
strength of the binding
size of spaces between the grits
Remember to specify the use for the stone when
ordering a grinding wheel. Frequently, the wheel
supplied with the machine is intended as a general
purpose tool and not a specific tool for sharpening.
Clockmaking uses high speed steel (HSS) or tungsten carbide (TC) for cutting tools in the main. The
grinding wheels are quite different in composition.
Most machines are double-ended with a rough wheel
at one end and a finishing or “smooth” wheel at the
other. The rough wheel removes metal quickly and
is usually only needed when grinding a tool from the
basic stick of HSS or a TC blank. Unless there is a
catastrophe, the smooth stone used for cleaning the
cutting tool of impacted metal (swarf) and for producing a sharp cutting edge, will get most use.
As the stone is used, the grits lose their individual
sharpness and the cavities fill up with some of the
metal that has been removed. The design allows
for this to an extent. The binder is only intended to
keep the grits in place until they are blunt and break
away, but it still fills up and “glazes.” Consequently,
Figure 17
the stone needs to be sharpened from time to time;
a simple process of hammering away the blunt grits
and exposing a clean surface. This tool is called a
dresser and is shown in Figure 16. It is comprised of
a cast iron holder and a set of toothed-carbon steel
disks. When the grinding wheel is rotating, the disks
are pressed against its periphery and traversed from
side to side, producing a flat surface that is true to
the axis of the grinding machine and parallel to it.
Figure 17 shows the dresser in use.
It is obvious that the stone will be a little smaller in
diameter after cleaning, but it is not usually so much
so that the tool support needs to be reset until the
operation has been performed three or four times.
Something else that is obvious, but frequently ig-
26
preparing and using a burnisher, part 3
BY LAURIE PENMAN
as cylinders and bores. All of these have the same
speed and feed limitations as can obtained on the
lathe. However, when using the process for cutting
gear teeth on a thin disk, the cut is interrupted and
the tool is only in contact with the work for a brief
part of the circle that it rotates through; possibly 5°
or 10° out of the full 360°. This allows the tip of the
tool to cool off, added to which most of the heat
developed in the cutting process is not from friction
between tip and work, but is the result of metal deformation in the chip or swarf.
Flycutting ejects the chip before it has transferred
much of the heat to the tool. Any metal that has a
pronounced tendency to stick to the tool tip tends to
remove this advantage. Metals like lead, for instance,
soft copper and to a lesser extent, modern 70/30
brass do stick. However, these metals do not normally need to be machined in this manner. (Old cast
70/30 brass, which is found in most antique clocks,
contains lead and that, ironically, makes it free-cutting and non-stick).
Figure 18
nored, is that the grits removed fly off in all directions and at high speed—they are dangerous to the
eyes.
Protection for the operator is very necessary. Frankly, the transparent guards that often are installed on
the machine are inadequate, because it is quite possible for the grits to ricochet off the body of the machine and bypass the guard. You should wear a face
guard (see Figure 18) or at least a pair of close-fitting
goggles.
The key to this is held in the phrase “an interrupted
cut.” Fly cutting cannot be carried out at higher than
normal cutting feed and speeds if the work consists
of several wheel blanks or a pinion; the tool tip will
remain in contact with the work for much longer and
will overheat. Figure 19 shows the form of cutter and
holder that I used in the 1970s. It was, in fact, a boring tool, but the hole for the tool is drilled off-center,
which was somewhat unusual at the time, allowing
me to use the holder for machining the form tool and
then reversing the tool to impose clearance on the
cutting surfaces.
The grindstone cuts quicker and cooler after dressing. Additionally, it is much less likely to burn the
metal of the cutting tool.
The Flycutters
Most machining operations are limited by the safe
cutting speed and feed of the tools’ materials, lowest
speeds and feeds, from high carbon steel, through
high speed steel (HSS) and tungsten carbide (TC) to
diamond. The exception to this is the flycutter when
used on an interrupted cut.
A flycutter is a single pointed tool that rotates. It
can reproduce the functions of a lathe on the milling
machine generating flat (or curved surfaces), as well
Figure 19
27
BY LAURIE PENMAN
I later came across the Myford boring tool holder
(Sherline and others also make the holder) which has
an off-center slot that is much more convenient for
a rectangular section of tool. I have used that ever
since with high carbon steel tool bits and HSS.


.

If you are not confident in the accuracy of your eye,
drill a hole of the right size in a piece of sheet and
then cut it in half; use that to guide the grinding of
the parting tool. The tool should be no longer than
necessary, because it will be making an interrupted
cut on the soft high carbon steel and needs to be
sturdy. Figure 22 shows the sequence of operations.
(Figure 23 is a detail of the holder I now use for fly
cutting.) The morse taper size should be chosen to
suit both the mandrel of the lathe and the miller or
driller used to drive the cutter. In my case, the machines had the same size of taper, but adaptors are
often needed, as well as a drawbar, of course.


Figure 20


Figure 22
When the tool is formed, remove it from the holder
and file the top rake. This provides a proper cutting
surface and also removes the place where the interrupted cut has begun, because this is usually rounded
over and will not make a good cutting edge. Hardening and tempering is as normal for high carbon steel.
Heat this to bright red and keep it at that temperature (no higher) for a minute or two and then quench
it in water or oil. Temper by heating gently until a
very pale yellow is seen then quench. This is simply
stress relieving. The degree of hardness is barely less
than dead hard.
Figure 21
For cutting gear teeth I find high carbon steel most
convenient. The tool bit (rectangular section drill
rod, gauge plate or flat ground stock) can be fully
annealed and the tooth form cut (Figure 20) using a
modified parting tool from HSS (Figure 21). That tool
is nothing more than a parting tool. Its width should
be ground to be exactly twice the radius of the tooth
form and then rounded by eye to a semi-circle.
The cutting edges must be cleaned up by carefully
stoning the top surface with an emery slip stone.
Then, the finished tool bit can be put back into the
holder, but in the cutting position (as opposed to the
machining position). Side views of the cutter held for
form turning and then twizzled round to the cutting
position (after hardening and tempering), are given
in Figure 24. They should make the process clear. t
28
BY LAURIE PENMAN
10.77mm dia.
12mm dia.
6mm
Draw bar tapping
1/4" BSF or 6mm
25mm
15mm
Turning the form
Twist through 180 degrees
6mm
C/ Line
Cutting position
Draw bar
Figure 24
AW C I M E M B E R B E N E F I T
Lathe nose
No.1 to 3 Morse
taper sleeve
Figure 23
HT Classifieds Work for
The SWATCH GROUP, CANADA
“We had a wonderful response
to the [recruitment] ad.”
Nina Le, Human Resources, THE SWATCH GROUP, Canada
Are You Looking To Hire?
Are You Looking for a New Job?
Use the AWCI Career Center at
www.awci.com and Horological Times
Classifieds to get results!
a unique timepiece magazine 3 yrs/only $30
(6 issues)
AWCI Members Save $10!
Regular Subscription Rate $40.
www.watch-around.com
Subscribers should visit
www.watch-around,com
All payments must
be made via
website.
29
BY ROBERT PORTER, CMC
How to Make
a Winding
Pinion and
Clutch, Part 2
Grinding the Cutter Forming Tool
I
n Part 1, we determined the measurements we
needed to make a winding pinion and its cutter.
Figures 4, 5, and 6 picture a simple and easy-tomake attachment for your watchmaker’s lathe. This
attachment will allow us to grind any radius and
clearance angle we need on a cutter forming tool
made from a 3/16” (.1875”) square high-speed steel
lathe tool bit. A sketch of the components is shown
in Figure 7. The form tool holder of the prototype
attachment was made from pieces of 1/4” thick by
1” wide aluminum sandwiched together as shown in
the photos. The only critical dimension is the .1875”
distance from the center of the drill rod post to the
edge of the slot of the form tool holder. This dimension sets up a zero radius on the form tool.
Figure 5
Figures 4, 5 and 6
demonstrate how to
easily make a grinding attachment for
your watchmaking
lathe. (This article
is one of a multipart series by Robert Porter, CMC,
originally printed in
Horological Times
beginning in 1998.)
NOTE: You should protect the lathe headstock and
bed components so they do not become damaged or
contaminated with abrasive material. I typically use
clear cling wrap to protect the lathe components.
Figure 8 illustrates
how the attachment works. Shim
stock, or a feeler
gage, of a thickness equal to the
radius we want to
grind is used to
offset the cutting
edge of the forming tool from the
center of rotation
of the post.
Figure 4
Figure 6
A bench grinder is used to carefully remove excess
material from the form tool by hand to the approximate shape needed. (Don’t forget to wear eye protection and a dust mask.) Keep a can of water handy
to dip the tool into often while grinding to keep the
form tool from being tempered to a softer condition.
The radius grinding attachment is used to finishgrind the form tool only. Adjust the top slide of the
slide rest to a 10° clearance angle as shown in Figure
4, and attach the bearing block.
We will use a .5 millimeter (.020”) feeler gage to offset the form tool and also position (by eye) the end
of the tool over the point of the steel post, tightening
the screws slightly to hold the tool in place. Insert
the form tool holder into the bearing block, rotate
30
how to make a winding pinion and clutch, part 2
BY ROBERT PORTER, CMC
Figure 8: Illustrating how the attachment works.
Figure 7: Attachment components.
the holder and form tool to an upright position, and
bring the tool gently against the side of the stationary grinding wheel as shown in Figures 4 and 5. Note
the slide rest micrometer reading and then back
the holder away from the grinding wheel (toward
the lathe tailstock) while still in the upright position.
Rotate the holder until the form tool is horizontal
and loosen the screws holding the tool so it can be
moved by hand.
Use the slide rest micrometer to position the holder
about .3 mm (.012”) away from the micrometer setting we noted above. Push the end of the form tool
gently by hand into the stationary grinding wheel as
pictured in Figure 6 and then securely tighten the
screws holding the form tool in place. Again, use the
slide rest micrometer to back the end of the form
tool away from the grinding wheel. Start the grinding wheel rotating and carefully advance the form
tool into the side of the wheel while swinging the
holder by hand through about 95° to grind the radius
and clearance. Continue grinding until the radius is
fully formed as shown in Figure 8. Do not allow the
holder to go past the vertical. Figure 9 illustrates the
complete procedure. Check the radius against the
circles in the magnifying comparator. You will be
able to grind excellent radius forming tools after a
little practice.
We’ll make a cutter blank in Part 3 of this series. t
Figure 9: Forming tool radius grinding procedure.
©1998 (All rights reserved by the author)
31
BY JOHN B. SHADLE, CMC
Making
Flycutters,
Part 2
T
his is the second part in a reprint of an article
by Mr. Shadle published in Horological Times in
January, 2000.
Mounting the Radius Tool
You will now use the radius tool to cut the tooth
form on both sides of the flycutter blank, as shown
in Figures 8A and 8B. How you mount the radius tool
in your lathe depends on how your lathe is set up. I
have a Unimat 3, and I use a couple of “saddles” — Ushaped pieces that are flat on the bottom, as shown
in Figure 9. Set the radius tool into the “saddles” and
bolt it into the tool block, as shown in Figure 10, using the existing tool block bolt arrangement.
of the mount. To minimize chatter, the radius tool
cutting edge should be mounted close to the lathe
tool block. If you must make more than two saddles
to mount it securely, then do so.
Making the Flycutter
When making the flycutter, run your lathe at a slow
speed and use cutting oil. Be sure the radius tool is
sharp; if necessary, re-sharpen it during the course
of making the flycutter. Carbon tool steel tends to
burnish and become hard to cut if you don’t follow
these rules.
Use the left side of the radius tool to cut one side of
the flycutter, and the right side of the radius tool to
cut the other side of the flycutter, as shown in Figure
8A. The line scratched in the circumference of the
flycutter blank will act as a visual reference, helping
you to make both sides of the flycutter tooth profile identical. Use magnification and a dial gauge frequently to achieve the proper thickness of the cutter.
Work slowly and carefully! Above all, don’t attempt
to make the entire cut with one pass. Make numerous small cuts instead. The proper depth to cut will
depend on the size of the “dedendum” of the wheel
you’re making, and it’s actually not critical. The
notch between wheel teeth must be deep enough to
permit the wheel and pinion to mesh without risk of
butting. On the other hand, if the tooth is too tall—
too much “dedendum”—it’s also weaker.
Figure 8A
Make the “saddles” by drilling a hole in 1/8” aluminum
or brass, using a drill the same size as the radius tool.
Then saw away half of it to make a “U.” The “saddles”
raise the height of the cutting edge of the radius tool
to the tool height of your lathe. If your lathe (like the
Unimat 3) uses a 1/4” bit, then the saddle—hence the
cutting edge of the radius tool—must be 1/4” high.
The cutting edge should be centered on the lathe
center, the center of the flycutter blank, as shown in
Figure 10.
The radius tool should be supported by “saddles”
under each tool block bolt, and also at the front edge
Figure 8B
The depth of the cut into the flycutter must be the
same on both sides, as shown in Figure 8A. You
can keep the sides identical by making a transverse
scratch across the radius tool with a carbide-tipped
scratch, as shown in Figure 8A, or (better) use the
32
Leak tester
Leak Checker Prime
Figure 9
Figure 10
numerals on the cross-feed dial of your lathe to monitor the depth of cut.
To avoid chatter, it is important to cut with the
rounded portion of the radius tool, not the straight
edge. Feed the cut using the cross feed screw of your
lathe, as shown in Figure 8A. If your lathe is equipped
with a compound rest, you can also aid cutting by
rotating the cutter a few degrees away from the flycutter blank, as shown in Figure 8B. This ensures cutting with the rounded portion of the radius tool. If
you use this method, be sure to cut using the cross
feed screw, not the compound screw—this prevents
undercutting.
Sometimes, the between-teeth gaps have rounded
bottoms, as seen in Figure 12. (This area is called
the “root” of the tooth.) The rounded roots make
the tooth stronger. Should you wish to make cutters
which cut rounded roots, you can round the outer
edges of the cutter to produce round roots at this
time. Use a file, being careful to make both sides of
the cutter identical. Then polish the cutting edge surface of the cutter, since this affects the finish on the
surface of the wheel tooth.
The perfect mix of technology and design. Able
to test for leaks up to -0.7 bar vacuum, it provides everything you would expect of a modern,
easy-to-use leak testing unit.
Key features:
• Attractive,timelessdesign
• Suitableforallwatchtypesincludingsmall
ceramicwatches
• Withaccurate,robustpressuresensor
• Vacuumcreatedbyaninternalpump
• Vacuumandtestingtimecanbefreelyselected
andprogrammed
• Valuesdisplayedonacolortouchscreen
• InstantprintoutofresultswithMartelprinter
• Extremelycost-effective
• Availablefromautumn2012
Greiner Vibrograf
Greiner Vibrograf AG, 4900 Langenthal, Switzerland
[email protected], www.greinervibrograf.ch
lay greiner ins awci-ht 3,5x10inch 1b.indd 1
33
29.05.12 15:51
making flycutters, part 2
The fact that the mounting hole you’ve just drilled is
off-center and farther from the cutting edge than the
center hole of the flycutter blank provides the necessary relief (clearance) of the flycutter under its tip, as
previously described.
Sharpen, harden and temper to straw color. The
cutting surface on the flycutter must be sharp. The
sharper the cutter, the less drag and vibration there
is when wheel-cutting wheels. Use a belt or disk
sander to sharpen the edge. When sharpening this
edge after hardening and tempering, don’t overheat
it with grinding friction.
Figure 11
The spare half-moon can itself be made into another
flycutter, and the opposite edge of the flycutter can
also be used to cut wheels if a second hole is drilled.
Remember to drill the second hole before the cutter
is hardened, and grind another radial flat as you did
on the original side of the cutter. The second cutting
edge provides a spare, in case you blunt one side
when wheel cutting. You now have made two cutters with four cutting edges — perhaps you can trade
cutters with your friends.
Making cutters is only the beginning of making
wheels. Details on topics such as indexing, cutting
speeds, cutter alignment, and so on, are covered in
other publications, some of which are listed in the
bibliography. The [AWCI] library has many such references, as well as excellent video tapes on wheel
and pinion cutting by J.M. Huckabee.
Figure 12
Finishing the Flycutter
Remove the cutter blank from the lathe arbor and
cut it in half through the center hole to form two
half-moons. Further trim, as using a jeweler’s saw or
a fine-toothed hacksaw.
Drill a mounting hole rather near one end—in the
“horns” of the half-moon. This hole is used to screw
the flycutter onto an arbor for your milling machine
or milling attachment. The cutter is further sharpened on a line radial to the cutter mounting hole. Use
a small belt sander with a work table or a file to make
this cutting surface, which must be quite flat.
Always be aware of matters of safety. Wear safety
goggles when operating any machine, even when
you think it’s safe to work without them. It’s even
more important to remember eye safety when working with small parts and machines, since it’s tempting to aid vision by putting your eyes close to small
work. Even small machines can produce nasty cuts
if you’re careless, so keep hands and eyes away or
protected from whirling cutters and flying chips.
Notes
Although similar flycutters can be made to cut escape wheels, I prefer to use a slitting saw, making
multiple cuts to form the teeth. Similar flycutters can
also be made to cut ratchet wheels.
While I understand that solid steel pinions may be
cut with flycutters, I have not done so myself, preferring to use shop-made wheels to drive lantern
34
making flycutters, part 2
pinions. Steel pinions must be cut at a much slower
speed than brass wheels, using copious lubrication.
To keep it simple I have assumed that the straight
sides of the teeth which form the “dedendum” are
parallel. In fact, they are radial to the center of the
wheel, like the cuts in a pie. This difference is not
important in the higher tooth counts of most clock
wheels—in the 30 to 90 tooth range.
When cutting wheels with fewer teeth—especially
pinions—the sides of the teeth must be made radial,
or the teeth will be club-shaped and weak. To do this,
the position of the radius tool must be rotated the
proper number of degrees, both left and right, when
making the flycutter. This requires a compound tool
rest which indicates degrees. For example, Figure 11
shows a setup with the radius tool angled to 6 degrees to the left and 6 degrees to the right of center.
This is the inclination to use for a wheel with 15 teeth.
This concludes the series on “Making Flycutters.” t
Bibliography
Davis, W.O. Gears for Small Mechanisms,
TEE Publications, England. ISBN# l-857610156
Wild, J. Malcolm. Clock Wheel and Pinion Cutting,
Arlington Books, USA. ISBN# 0-930163-13-3
Law, Ivan. Gears and Gear Cutting Workshop
Practice Series, Argus Books, England. ISBN#
0-85242-11-8
Daniels, George. Watchmaking, Philip Wilson
Publishers, England. ISBN# 0-85667-497-4
©2000 All rights reserved by the author. Reprinted
by permission of John B. Shadle, CMC.
Editor’s Note: Previously printed in Horological
Times, May, 2012 issue, page 10.
Chronoscope X1 (G2)
New Software Version 4.0
High Performance Tester
for Mechanical Watches
New:
–– Test cycles in up to 10 measuring positions
–– Test mode Chronograph with “Jumping seconds”
–– Tolerance setting for the delta values
–– Device for repair service and watch testing lab
–– Screen captures in PNG format into USB stick
–– Network compatible to the WiCoTrace database
Distributed by:
35
BY RON LANDBERG, CW21
Archie Perkins:
An Inspiration
to Modern
Horologists
A
rchie Perkins is truly an inspiration. Originally
from Frances, Kentucky, Archie actually started out working in a mine. He repaired watches and clocks as a hobby and to earn extra cash,
beginning when he was fifteen. After Archie was discharged from the Army, his first real watchmaking
job paid around $20 a week.
Several of Archie’s technical drawings.
drawings on the cover of the March, 2012 issue of
Horological Times.
Besides the 1,500 technical drawings, Archie also
produced over 2,000 pictures for his articles and
books. That’s back during the time when photographs all had to be thought out, choreographed,
developed and printed. You couldn’t just look at the
screen on your camera, hit delete and snap out a
dozen more shots, like we do now. Archie has since
switched to the digital camera revolution, remarking
on the fantastic results he now gets.
Archie teaches a student about a Marine Chronometer early in
his career.
While attending the Elgin Watchmakers College in
Elgin, Illinois, Archie developed an enduring friendship with William Samelius, Dean of the College.
(As a side note, the W.H. Samelius book, Watch and
Clock Information Please, is an excellent resource for
the watchmaker.)
Demonstrating a teaching aid for Bulova Accutron tuning fork
watches.
Archie also developed his remarkable technical illustration skills during that time. He has produced over
1,500 technical drawings for his over 300 articles.
Archie sells signed copies of many of these drawings during NAWCC events, and may also have some
with him during the AWCI convention in Denver this
August. You’ll find an example of one of Archie’s
To say Archie is a watchmaking educator is an understatement. Archie was an instructor at the American
Academy of Horology in Denver and then at the Emily Griffith Opportunity School for 32 years where he
received the Vocational Educator of the Year award.
Even today, at local Denver NAWCC meetings, he
passes along wisdom on all things horological.
36
Archie Perkins: an inspiration to modern horologists
BY RON LANDBERG, CW21
he was “wheeling and dealing” for another lathe motor and stand, plus a nice staking set.
There are four more books of his already in the
works, the first of which is now being published by
AWCI. You can look forward to Archie signing copies of this first book in the set, Antique Watch Restoration, Vlm. I, during the AWCI convention in Denver.
Archie Perkins has achieved numerous industry titles
and has received many awards. To me, personally,
he is an inspiration who encourages me to be the
best watchmaker I can be. t
Viewing photos of the Elgin factory and school.
At his mill used for cutting gears and pinions.
Archie at the bench.
In 1959 while teaching 6 hours a day, Archie opened
his home shop; machining wheels, pinions and other
watch and clock parts. Richard, his son, could often
be found helping out in the shop. Work was bid by
the job at that time, and Archie admits he should have
charged more. However, watchmaking seemed more
like a money-making hobby then, providing him with
more skills he could use when teaching and writing.
Archie contributed monthly articles to Horological
Times for 25 years. He admits he learned a great deal
from the disciplines of teaching and writing.
Many of these HT articles are the basis for the two
books already written, The Modern Watchmakers
Lathe And How To Use It, and The Watchmakers’
Staking Tool. These are also Archie’s favorite watchmaking tools, although you wouldn’t know it by looking at his incredible shop. At the last NAWCC mart
Discussing blank and cutter-holding arbors.
Antique Watch Restoration, Vlm.I,
is currently being published by
AWCI. Visit the AWCI convention,
August 1-5th, to purchase a signed
copy of the 318-page book. Also
available on www.awci.com
in August.
Archie B. Perk
CMW, FAWI,
ins
FNAWCC, FBH
I
V.I
37
affiliate chapter
news
AWCI Affiliate
Chapter in Ohio
Holds Annual
Convention
a speech regarding the Horolovar Company and the
materials and services he offers.
The Watchmakers/Clockmakers
Association of Ohio’s 2012 Annual
Convention: July 13 -15, 2012 at
Carlisle Inn in Ohio Amish Country
For more information, please contact Bill Miller, 740507-6040 or [email protected] or Mark
Baker, 330-537-3939 or [email protected]
The 66th Annual Convention of
theWatchmakers/Clockmakers Association of Ohio (WAO)
is just around the corner. AWCI
would like to encourage you to
make plans to attend. We feel
the classes will fill up fast—so, as
the saying goes, “The early bird
gets the worm.”
There will be dinner served Friday and Saturday evening from the Dutch Valley Restaurant (some of that
good “Amish cooking”), next door to the Carlisle Inn.
There are lots of things to see and do in the area
including: Cheese shops, wine shops, antique stores,
furniture stores, the Warther’s Carving Museum and
much more.
Take Advantage of
Upcoming Chapter
Events
Watchmaker and Clockmaker
Auction – Greensboro, North
Carolina – July 15, 2012
The North Carolina Watchmakers Association
(NCWA) is holding an auction for watchmakers and
clockmakers in North Carolina. Doors open at 8:00
am and the auction starts at 11:00 am. The auction is
a large event—typically drawing 500-600 lots in 4-5
hours with 80-120 registered attendees.
The NCWA assists families of deceased watch and
clockmakers by selling horological items that are no
longer being used. It’s a fun event with a great cause
to support! Contact Mack Shuping at 336-287-8402
for more information.
The Carlisle Inn in “Amish Country” south of Akron, Ohio.
The WAO has some excellent educational programs
lined up this year with Jim Lubic, CMW21 presenting
a class on “The Watchmaker’s Lathe.” Harvey Mintz
will present a class on “Cleaning Pocket Watches.”
Robert Miller, of International Dial Co. will inform
everyone about his business of refinishing dials and
about his new computer software, RepairTracker®
2000. We understand there will be a special price
for those making a purchase of RepairTracker software at the WAO Convention. Chris Nimon will give
Upcoming Texas
Affiliate Chapter
Meetings
Southwestern watch and
clock enthusiasts are invited to join the Capital Area
Watch & Clockmakers Guild
(CAWCG) in Texas for their
upcoming Affiliate Chapter meetings. Their next
meeting takes place on July 24, 2012.
38
affiliate chapter
news
Join CAWCG to network, learn and socialize with
fellow horologists. Dinner: 5:00 PM – 6:00 PM, Program: 6:00 PM. Location: Pok-E-Jo’s Smokehouse,
2121 Parmer Lane (near Metric Blvd.) Austin, Texas.
Please contact Jay Holloway, Secretary, for more information: [email protected].
Recap of the 2012
Joint Convention
Midwest Watch and Clockmakers
Association and the Minnesota
Clockmaker’s Guild Have Great
Turnout
On May 5, 2012 the MWCA - MCG Joint Convention was held at the Kelly Inn in St. Paul, MN. All
MWCA Board members were in attendance, (Mark
Purdy, CC21, Wes Cutter, CC21, Don Krueger, Tom
Chase, CW21 and Stew Lelievre.) MCG members that
attended were Richard Zielike, Susan Wood, Dean
Ziegenbein and Jeff Pomeroy.
The convention began with a talk by Doug Thompson, CW21, current AWCI president. He discussed:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Closing of the St. Paul College WOSTEP
program and efforts towards a new program
The possibility of an equipment auction of school equipment
The NAWCC clockmaker school closing
A summary of the current schools teaching watch repair
The future of clock repair education
A possible watch technician program at AWCI
AWCI 2012 Annual Convention in Denver, Colorado, August 1-5th
Gary Anderson gave a presentation on Hamilton
pocket watches made for Minneapolis jewelers, as
well as displaying several examples from his collection. He then took questions from the audience,
and assessed several watches brought in for him to
review. Stew Lelievre followed with a short talk on
Dudley Masonic Watches and showed a vintage promotional film from the Hamilton Watch Company.
convention and it seems
the two organizations are
benefiting from sharing
activities and should continue. Rich Zielike (MCG
Guild president) gave a recap of recent Guild meetings and plans for future
meetings.
Member suggestions were
made regarding microtechnology programs and hands-on learning opportunities. Mark Purdy will be representing the chapter
at the AWCI Annual Convention in August 2012 and
will give a talk on business promotion ideas.
The afternoon program was given by featured speaker, Andy Baron, on his restoration of the Maillardet
automaton. The presentation also covered the Hugo
movie and book and paper engineering.
Door prizes were given out throughout the day and
the meeting ended with a silent auction. Sales were
roughly $2,300 with about 25 bidding cards sold. It
was a “bring what you want to sell” event with clocks,
watches, and parts as well as tools, books and miscellaneous associated repair items.
Attendance was about 80 for Friday evening’s talk
and roughly 38 on Saturday—an exceptional turnout!
FUTURE MCG MEETINGS:
August 2, MCG Meeting – Video – TBD
September 6, MCG Meeting – Lathe Tune Up Tips
To RSVP or for more information, please contact
Secretary, Dean Ziegenbein - 952-322-4776 or via
e-mail: [email protected].
President, Mark Purdy, noted this was the 3rd joint
39
awci
news
BY AARON RECKSIEK, CW21
AWCI Event
at JCK Show
in Las Vegas
N
ow I know what you’re thinking, “Too many
acronyms in this article’s title!” Believe me,
as watchmakers/clockmakers, we deal with
enough of them as it is. However, this one just might
be something we all start to see a lot more of in years
to come.
What is JCK? The Jewelers Circular Keystone is a
monthly magazine covering jewelry industry and
luxury market issues and style trends. JCK, being a
globally-recognized brand, is uniquely able to bring
jewelry store owners together with manufacturers,
suppliers, distributors, and the media to create the
nation’s largest and most comprehensive jewelers
exposition held annually in sweltering Las Vegas.
With more than 2,500 exhibitors in 2012 and everincreasing attendance numbers, JCK’s footprint on
the industry in unmistakable.
Tom Schomaker, CMW21 and AWCI Watchmaking Instructor,
presented six one-hour educational sessions.
zation, as well as help guide attendees to the second location in the Watch Lounge. AWCI used this
space to create specifically-tailored one-hour demonstrations presented by Tom Schomaker, CMW21,
to educate watch and jewelry industry attendees on
general topics such as:
•
•
•
•
•
Watch water testing
Quartz watch testing and diagnostics
Watch repair take-in procedures
Battery replacement
Quality controlling watch repairs
JCK also assisted AWCI by lending our organization
a professional sound and video system, large television monitors, and comfortable seating for the audience. Show officials also published daily schedules
for the presentations in the show guides. They also
provided large printed signs throughout multiple
locations. I know this may not seem significant, but
at an estimated cost of $30,000 worth of total support—and with many jewelry industry members seeing or hearing the name of our organization for the
first time—this generosity is not to be taken lightly.
We would like to thank JCK for everything they have
done for us.
It was standing room only for many of the educational sessions.
Why should you care about JCK? The JCK Show
has made generous commitments in helping AWCI
gain more recognition among the industry. This year
alone they donated almost 8 booths’ worth of space
between two prime locations to AWCI and its sponsors. One location was directly at the entrance of the
watch area which was used to promote the organi-
The response from industry professionals was better than we could have hoped! There were 20 seats
set up for these sessions and most seats were filled
to capacity every session. During the show’s peak
hours, there were as many as 30 additional people
standing in the aisle to get the information, totaling
about 50 people watching the session. Following the
sessions, volunteers and AWCI sponsors were onhand to answer questions and offer products and
40
awci
news
BY AARON RECKSIEK, CW21
services. Our supporters reported a significant increase in sales and interest over past years. AWCI
was able to acquire many more new membership
leads in addition to reconnecting with past members
who showed interest in rejoining.
AWCI management also arranged for the company
808 Post & Production to record and edit the content almost immediately following the seminars. This
allowed our organization to sell DVD copies produced at the show to many eager attendees, as well
as making them available to our members at www.
awci.com in the online store, (selling for $24.99 each
or $89.99 for a set of five). This not only generates
income for AWCI, but also helps set a higher standard of quality, knowledge and experience in the
jewelry industry regarding our profession.
Of course, an event
like this would not
be possible without
the proper assistance
from AWCI members,
employees,
and supporters. With
the
overwhelming
increased traffic of
people at our booths,
it is essential to have
experts from all aspects of our business
to correctly assist
and direct visitors to
the proper outcome.
Videographers taped the educaWhether it be store
tional presentations now for sale
owners looking to
on the AWCI website. Go to: www.
employ a watchmakawci.com and see the Online Store
er and needing the
for these DVDs.
proper reference, or
already-established repair shops needing information on the latest tools and equipment.
We would like to acknowledge and thank our three
major show sponsors: Jules Borel & Co., Sy Kessler
Sales/Renata Batteries, and RepairTracker2000.
Their presence and support boosted confidence
and allowed for additional legitimacy for AWCI, its
staff, and members. We would also like to thank the
AWCI Industry Advisory Board for their sponsorship.
Thanks to AWCI management and staff, Jim Lubic,
Tom Schomaker, and Daniela Ott for dedicating
countless hours making this event happen. Finally a
big thank you to our show volunteers: Melissa Scho-
The busy AWCI trade show booth helped answer attendees’
questions about the Institute and direct traffic to the educational sessions.
maker, Gary and Jena Borel, Kyle Woolworth, Robert
Miller, Bob Ingram, Norm Basch, and Shanon Recksiek. The opportunity to work with you all is invaluable, and what you do for the organization is immeasurable.
With the future of the industry and our organization
rapidly changing, we can take comfort in knowing
that, with the support of Industry giants such as JCK,
sponsorships from major brands, and continued devotion by AWCI staff and members, our organization
is headed in the right direction. We may be on our
way to becoming a household name among all in the
jewelry industry. t
An Overview of the JCK Show 2012:
• Held annually at Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas
• Over 2,500 exhibitors from across the
globe
• Show experienced 21% increase in atten
dance over the past 2 years
• AWCI exhibit booth in Hall of Time plus
educational area in Watch Lounge
• Tom Schomaker, CMW21, presented
one-hour educational sessions
• Session attendance was as high as 50
participants
• Copies of these sessions available on DVDs
for $24.99 each ($89.99 for set of five) on
www.awci.com in the Online Store
A big “Thanks” goes to JCK, Jules Borel & Co.,
Sy Kessler Sales/Renata and RepairTracker 2000
for their support!
41
education &
certification
Brand and Caliber-Specific Training - 2012
“This was a great class. As
an AWCI member who has
attended this course, I highly
recommend it for any CW21/
CMW21 who regularly works
on Rolex watches.” - Michal
Blaszczyk, CW21
HAVE YOU SIGNED UP YET?
It’s the education you’ve been asking for!
> Improve Your Expertise on High Grade Timepieces
> Increase Your Productivity and Profitability
> Update Your Reference Library (New 100-Page Service Manual Provided)
These courses will cover proficiencies such as:
• Maintaining Factory Standards (Timing / Escapement / Lubrication)
• Diagnostics and Repair (Barrel / Gear Train / Winding System / Calendar)
• Dialing and Casing Procedures
• Estimating and Quality Control
• Case and Bracelet Refinishing and Repair
These special classes (5 CEUs each) are offered only to CW21 and
CMW21 AWCI members:
Aug 27 - 31 - Caliber R3035
Sept 10 - 14 - Caliber R3035
Oct 15 - 19 - Caliber R3035
*Nov 5 - 9 - Omega caliber (guest instructor)
5-day block: $875.00
AWCI Academy of Watchmaking - 2012
Sept 17-21 Sept 24-28 Modern Mechanical Chronograph 7750/7751 (5 CEUs)
Modern Automatic Watches (5 CEUs)
5-day block: $875.00
CW21 Exam Schedule - 2012
Aug 6-9 Aug 13-16 Oct 1-4 Dec 3-6 Lititz WatchTechnicum, Lititz, PA
North Seattle Comm. College, Seattle, WA
AWCI Training Facility, Harrison, OH
OSU Institute of Technology, Okmulgee, OK
Member: $1,695.00 Non-Member: $2,695.00
Please visit the www.awci.com website for information on classes and exams.
SIGN UP EARLY!
We reserve the right to cancel a class if there are less than six participants signed up 30 days prior to the first day of class,
so we encourage you to wait before making travel or hotel arrangements until this deadline has passed. If in doubt, please
contact Daniela Ott at 866-367-2924, ext. 303.
TO REGISTER FOR CLASSES OR EXAMS, please call toll-free
1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303 or e-mail: [email protected].
42
questions &
answers
by david christianson, cmw21, fawi
QUESTION:
Can you tell me about this watch? It belongs to a
friend. I don’t see anything on the movement, but the
stamp in the case lets me know it’s 16k gold.
Richard Bunkelmann
Kingman, Arizona
ANSWER:
Morris Tobias (1762/63-1846) was the first of three
generations of the Tobias watchmaking family in
England. M.I. Tobias (Myer Isaac) was part of the second generation. Myer was actually Morris’ adopted
son, as well as his nephew. Myer worked with his father until he set out on his own in 1812.
M.I. Tobias & Co. produced good quality watches in
Liverpool. His shop was a finisher of Liverpool rough
movements, not a primary manufacturer. He enjoyed a good reputation in America. Importation to
America stopped by the end of the American Civil
War when U.S.-made watches quickly took over the
American watch market. During its 50-year history,
M.I. Tobias & Co. produced nearly 45,000 watches.
As with most well regarded watches, there were
imitations and fraudulently signed Tobias watches,
playing on the good name of Tobias. Most were
Swiss bar-style movements, although there were
also Swiss and English-made full plate and ¾ plate
movements, usually signed M.J. Tobias or just Tobias.
Your Swiss bar-style movement is one of these imitation M.I. Tobias watches held in a case signed as M.J.
Tobias. It is an 11 jewel, key wind and key set move-
ment made in Switzerland from an ebauche (rough
movement) popular between about 1830 and 1875.
The perception still exists that M.I. Tobias imported
Swiss bar movements into England for his shop to
finish and market, but Michael Edidin showed that
this was not the case when he published his extensive research into the Tobias family of watchmakers
in two installments of the NAWCC Bulletin in 1992.
To quote Mr. Edidin: “All this evidence suggests that
the Swiss Tobias watches are frauds, made by others
who took advantage of the reputation and sale of
English watches,” (page 692). He did, however, go
on to say that “the many forged and fraudulent Tobias watches that were manufactured and sold are a
backhanded tribute to the scarcity and the reputation of M.I. Tobias & Co. watches,” (page 544).
Reference:
Michael Edidin, English Watches for the American
Market: A History of Watchmaking by the Tobias
Families of London and Liverpool, Part 1. NAWCC
Bulletin, Volume 34/5, Number 280, October 1992,
pp. 515-544.
Michael Edidin, English Watches for the American
Market: A History of Watchmaking by the Tobias
Families of London and Liverpool, Part 2. NAWCC
Bulletin, Volume 34/6, Number 281, December 2,
1992, pp. 659-693.
Send your Questions to Horological Times
701 Enterprise Drive • Harrison, OH 45030
[email protected]
866-367-2924 ext.307
43
questions &
answers
QUESTION:
What I know about this watch is: It is a key wind,
key set Repeater. The current owner says it was his
grandfather’s, who was blind. Breguet’s name is on
the porcelain dial face. Does this mean it was made
by Breguet? Or does it have just his patent hairspring? Or some other technology created by him?
It has a coin silver case. The last time it was repaired
it was quite expensive. Any idea of the age?
ANSWER:
Mark Purdy, CC21
Hopkins, Minnesota
Your watch is a very good example of a rather common Swiss repeating movement of the later 18th century. The porcelain dial is of the Breguet style with
Breguet-style hands and the signature of “Breguet”
beneath the numeral 6.
Abraham-Louis Breguet was born in 1747 in Neuchatel, Switzerland. He apprenticed as a watchmaker
in Versailles at the age of 15 (about 1762). We don’t
know with whom he apprenticed or when he completed his study, but it probably was in 1767. We
don’t know what Breguet did between the end of his
apprenticeship and the start of his own watchmaking shop, a period of some eight years. But we can
presume that he “journeyed” from one watchmaker
to another, working for wages, gaining experience
and honing his skills. He would not have had enough
money to open his own workshop nor to enjoy the
luxury of designing and building his own watches after coming directly out of his apprenticeship.
In 1775 he appears to have started his own shop in
Paris following his marriage and a nice dowry. By
1780 Breguet had established himself as a leading
figure in French watchmaking shortly after he came
to the notice of the King (a watch lover, himself). His
designs and ground-breaking innovations in watchmaking eventually set the standard for the industry,
but they didn’t mature until he returned to Paris after
a two-year exile in Switzerland during the “Terror”, a
two-year period during the French Revolution, following the collapse of the French monarchy during which the revolutionaries (“citizens”) persecuted those whom they thought were associated with
the monarchy (1793-95). His detailed records of the
watches he and his studio produced began in 1787
with watch number 1.
Prior to his exile he was obligated to supplement
his own original work with quite ordinary repeating
watch movements which he imported from Switzerland and finished and cased in Paris. These movements were quite different than those he produced
following the Revolution. In George Daniels’ words,
“The reasons why Breguet used such movements is
quite simply that they were produced in large quantities and were inexpensive. The movements made
to Breguet’s own designs required special attention
from the traditional skills of the component makers
and were therefore more costly to produce. Breguet, in his earlier years, lacked the financial means to
undertake such costly production and he was thus
obligated to supplement his business with cheaper
watches” that he hand-finished and adjusted to his
own high standards.
Many forgeries were produced in Breguet’s lifetime.
To protect his reputation he developed a secret signature that he engraved beneath the figure 12 on
44
questions &
answers
enamel dials (flanking the figure XII on metal dials).
Breguet took his son into the business in 1807 and
from then on the dials carried the visible signature of
“Breguet” or “Breguet et Fils.”
Although Breguet did continue to make less expensive watches in his shop after the Revolution,
he used ebauches (rough movements) made especially for him in Switzerland (using his own unique
design) to supplement the very innovative watches
to which he was and is so well known. The style of
your movement would have been from a stock commercial ebauche that Breguet may have used prior
to the Revolution.
brought forward and entered into the books at a later date. Then again, there would have been a series
number and signature on the movement.”
I examined a fake Breguet movement a few years
ago that was very similar to yours (made from the
same ebauche) even with the same movement-holding lugs that yours has. The dial and hands looked
convincing but the movement and its components
were not finished as one would expect from Breguet’s shop during the time period that the dial signature suggests. I cannot tell such finish detail from
your photographs but I suspect they are the same as
what I examined in the movement that was so similar
to yours. t
From your photograph, the back plate of the movement appears to be finished like the common commercial repeaters of the later 1700s, not what one
would expect of Breguet. However, George Daniels’
(Breguet’s biographer) says “of the many movements made before 1787, when the first sales book
was started, very few survive. Except for their cases
they show almost nothing of the potential ability and
style that was to create the legend of Breguet. The
survivors are distinguished by the curious fractional numbering system that
he used before 1787 with an additional
serial number.” An example would be
2833/88; meaning serial #283 was destined for completion in March of 1788.
My sense is that your watch was not
made in the Breguet shop and is a
watch made by another to take advantage of the Breguet name and reputation. It lacks the fractional serial number
on the back plate and Breguet would
have activated the repeater mechanism by depressing the entire pendant
rather than using a button on the rim of
the case as yours is. Early enamel dials
are signed Breguet in an elegant script.
After 1795 the style changed and the
signature is in Roman capitals, usually
outside the chapter ring below the figure six as yours. But by 1795 Breguet
was not using ordinary stock repeater
ebauches as yours, unless he was finishing a movement started before this
date. George Daniels explains by saying
“with the commencement of the 1794
series, the style is uniform, the only
exception being in early movements
45
ads
news
classified
industry
business opportunity
Watchmaking Business Opportunity - NJ
PARTS - CIRCUITS - MOVEMENTS
Including but not limited to calibers 201.001, 210.001, 950.001,
959.001. We also have parts for ETA, ESA, AS, FEF, FHF, UNITAS,
FELSA and other calibers.
[email protected] • (208) 676-8430
Take over successful watchmaker’s shop in Monmouth County,
NJ. Over 50 years in business and now retiring. Take advantage
of existing business and name by taking over the low rent. Start
working immediately! Contact Joe for details. 732-890-1415
[email protected]
clock classes
Watch Coordinator for After Sales Service,
Highland Park, IL
Need Watch Coordinator to manage all administrative tasks and
communications related to the maintenance and/or repair of
watches. This position is responsible for the management/flow
of data, estimations, shipping, invoicing and product management through service centers (internal or external), customer
service, and parts management. Minimum years of experience: 2-3 years preferred in a customer service oriented field.
Watch knowledge and familiarity of the luxury watch industry
preferred. Email resumes to [email protected]
Watchmaker Needed for Shop in Sunrise, FL
Montres Corum located in Sunrise, Florida is seeking a
watchmaker. Must be proficient in all phases of mechanical
and complex movements. Great opportunity to join a long
established, fast-growing business. State-of-the-art equipment,
very competitive compensation. Please contact Gerardo Ruz at
[email protected] (954) 279-1220
Clock Repair, Making & Designing by Laurie Penman
Laurie Penman’s Correspondence Course has run since
1990. One-to-one tuition, 24/7 distance instruction and
help by Internet and Skype.
No time limit on individual courses. £550.
Classes in the gorgeous English countryside.
One student £800, Two £450 ea. Three £330 ea.
Mid-day meal included.
Details: [email protected]
CW21 WATCHMAKER, TX
CW21 Watchmaker with 10 plus years bench experience needed
by well-known international firm. Located in Texas, we offer
competitive compensation. Experience with various Rolex
calibers required. Shop production driven by quality outcome.
A rare opportunity for the exceptional watchmaker who thrives
on rewarding bench work. Send response to:
[email protected].
for sale
Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books & DVDs
by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, Powell, TN 37849. Phone
865-947-9671; www.wrsmithclocks.com
Skilled Watchmaker – Monroe, CT
HAMILTON ORIGINAL MILITARY MATERIAL
Supplying original factory material for the Hamilton Model 21
Chronometer, Model 22 Deck Watch & Military 16 Size Watch
Models 23, 3992B, 4992B and 2974B As well as much material for
the 950B & 992B Railroad Watches. LARRY CRUTSINGER
P.O. Box 8514 Norfolk, VA 23503
757-650-9470 E-mail: [email protected]
www.militarywatchmuseum.com
Order On Line 24/7
We inventory 1000’s
of keys, pendulums,
dials, hands, bezels &
dial pans, chime rods
& gongs, clock chain
& cable, cuckoo parts,
clock glass, glass
domes, fasteners,
verges & wheels,
barometer parts,
Atmos style tools &
material, ultrasonic
cleaners, mainsprings,
quartz & mechanical
movements, electric
movements, tools,
products, batteries,
books, suspension
springs, clocks,
cleaning solutions,
lubricants, & more.
Timesavers
Box 12700 • Scottsdale, AZ 85267 • USA
Phone: 480-483-3711 • Fax:480-483-6116
[email protected] • www.timesavers.com
Our 172 page illustrated catalog #37 is free online
or only $5 in North America for a printed copy.
AUCTIONS:
DISCOVER THE SOURCE! in building a collection of clocks and
watches or finding horological parts and tools for the trade.
GORDON S. CONVERSE & CO. Consignments now accepted!
610-722-9004. • WWW.AUCTIONSATCONVERSE.COM
Dashto Inc
Established in 1974
Tom Mister
Virginia Beach, Va
Huge and ever-changing selection. Used and
new horological items. Sold by internet only
Check out our site:
www.dashto.com or www.dashto.org
TOOLS/EQUIPMENT/MATERIAL ASSTS/PARTS
POCKET/WRISTWATCHES/WATCH MOVEMENTS
WATCH CASES & DIALS/WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES
& MUCH MORE
WE BUY AND TRADE ALSO: [email protected]
SCHAUBLIN 70 LATHE
Wheelcutting, indexing, grinding, centering microscope. All
attachments, slide compound, lever feed tailstock, sets of collets,
cutting tools and holders. 2 sets of wheelcutters, brass and steel
stock. Photos avail. 765-282-6786.
help wanted
CW21 OPPORTUNITY, MADISON, WI
Leading jeweler and only authorized Rolex jeweler and repair
facility in Madison, WI., known for quality and philanthropy,
seeks Century 21 (CW21) Certified watchmaker. Offers competitive compensation and benefits. Madison enjoys a moderate
cost-of-living and was voted “One of the ten most livable cities
in the US.” Contact John Hayes: 608-257-3644,
[email protected]. EOE
Full-time Watchmaker Needed, South Houston, TX
CW21 certification required for luxury independent retail store
with competitive salary and benefits. Saturdays required. Email
resume to: [email protected] or call 281-332-8433
46
Victorinox Swiss Army is looking for a skilled Watchmaker at US
Headquarters in Monroe, CT! The Watchmaker will be responsible
for advanced repairs, technical training and mentorship of techs,
and quality analysis. Will travel to Switzerland annually. Formal
training and experience with complex movements required.
Further info available at www.swissarmy.com, send resumes to
[email protected].
WATCH/CLOCK TECHNICIAN, TOPEKA, KS
Time Lock service company seeks technician with 3-5 years
experience for full time employment in busy manufacturing/service company. Must have certification or at least 5
years experience in watch or clock service. Join the benchmark of this niche industry located in Topeka, KS. Send
resume and references to [email protected] or fax to
785-232-2603.
CLOCKMAKER – FULL TIME, SAN DIEGO, CA
Looking for a clock repair person to work full time. Need
someone to do in-house repairs, as well as some house
calls. Busy shop works on all kinds of clocks, both Antique
and Modern. Need experience repairing all kinds of clocks.
Salary depends on level of experience. Call 760-480-6488.
EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKER, RHODE ISLAND
Full time position for an experienced watchmaker to step
into well established position/retail location. Located in
Rhode Island. Must have experience with such brands as
Tag Heuer, Rolex, Omega, Patek, and Cartier. Contact us at
[email protected]
Watchmaker Wanted, Miami Beach, FL
Brera Group LLC, in Miami Beach, FL is seeking watchmaker to
perform thorough physical inspection, testing and diagnosis
of incoming watches for After Sales Service. The watchmaker
will perform all manner of repairs; maintenance, cleaning and
or overhauls on watches received at the After Sales Service
workshop and maintain a clean, neat, organized workshop,
including the work areas, equipment and tools. Apply at info@
breraorologi.com or 305.604.6360.
classified
help wanted
Repair | Restoration
.
situations wanted
WATCHMAKER/TECHNICIAN
30 years experience
Horology School Graduate
Please contact John
[email protected]
Clockmaker
Experienced seeking full time permanent situation.
For more information contact AWCI at: [email protected],
866-367-2924, ext. 307.
All Brands · Warranteed Work · Free Estimates
Mention Code HT2011 and Enjoy 15% Off
chelseaclock.com | 800 284 1778
CW21 Seeking Full-Time in Midwest
CW21 with 14 years experience is seeking full-time position
preferably in the Midwest, PA or Western NY. Contact John:
724–272–8703
Watchmaker/Repair Technician
Experienced w/ mechanical & quartz; PJC Horology Graduate.
Looking for a position in the
D/FW, Texas area. Please contact Will at: [email protected]
ads
Watch Parts Fabrication:
I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to modern.
MATT HENNING CW, 413-549-1950
www.henningwatches.com
Larry Blanchard, CMW21
At Palmer’s Jewelry
101 East Sycamore St., Kokomo, IN 46901
Phone (800) 207-1251 • Fax (765) 457-8517
E-mail: [email protected]
Facebook.com/palmerjewelry
Continuing with service of tuning fork Accutron, vintage
American and fine Swiss watches.
FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST
1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060
RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 • CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI
www.fendley-cox.com
MAINSPRINGS
Clock and music box - All sizes.
Custom made. Brass gear blanks.
Timewise (formerly TANI Engineering)
Ph: 330-947-0047, E-mail: [email protected]
HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH RESTORATION
tradesmen
Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 and
505 Electric watches. René Rondeau, P.O. Box 391,
Corte Madera, CA 94976, Phone (415) 924-6534
www.hamiltonwristwatch.com
ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS
Watchmaker Needed - LIVE & WORK IN PARADISE
Little Switzerland is one of the largest Caribbean-based retailers
of fine jewelry and timepieces. We sell Breitling, Tag Heuer,
Omega, Cartier, Rado, Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil, Movado
and more. Must have completed factory training and certification
by at least one of the following: WOSTEP, Breitling, Omega, Tag
Heuer of Cartier. Full watch service facility located in St. Thomas,
USVI. To apply, email resume to [email protected].
Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and watches. We
have helped over 175 watchmakers in the last eight years
to dispose of their accumulations. When you’re really ready
to sell, we’re ready to buy! Phone (229) 928-9092 or (727)
327-3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: [email protected]
LASER WELDING REPAIR
Reconstruction of watch cases, bands (gold and two tone),
antique mountings, welding, cracked or broken clock arbors,
hands and other metal parts. All aspects of jewelry repair.
Joel Lefaive (520) 579-8668
THE SWATCH GROUP CANADA IS LOOKING TO HIRE
SKILLED WATCHMAKERS
Must have at least 5 years watch repair experience • Detail
oriented a must • Good eyesight (July be corrected) • Aboveaverage sensitivity of touch • Patience for fine, continuous
work• High level of cleanliness and tidiness • Good hand-eye
coordination• High level of organizational skills
PLEASE SEND YOUR RESUME VIA EMAIL: NINA.LE@SWATCHGROUP.
COM OR FAX: 416-703-0797 OR MAIL: 1105- 555 RICHMOND ST. W,
TORONTO, ONTARIO, M5V3B1, CANADA
Experienced Watch or Clockmaker, Topeka, KS
Time lock service company seeks technician with 3-5 year experience for full time employment in busy manufacturing/service
company. Must have certification or at least 5 years experience
in watch or clock service. Join the benchmark of this niche
industry located in Topeka, KS. Send resume and references to
[email protected] or fax to 785-232-2603.
Clock Repair, CA
Looking for clock repairperson full time. Need someone to do
in-house repairs, as well as some house calls. This is a busy shop
working on all kinds of clocks, both Antique and Modern. Need
someone with experience repairing all kinds of clocks. Salary
depends on level of experience 619-884-6488.
47
classified
tradesmen
BEARINGS
We will install our patent pending ButterBearings™ in your chain
wound movement. These bearings reduce friction by over 90%
and come with a lifetime warranty.
For details contact: Butterworth Clocks, Inc.
5300 59th Ave. W., Muscatine IA 52761 tel 563.263.6759
fax 563.263.0428 email [email protected]
ATMOS Service/Repair
Warranty 2 Years Parts & Labor
877-437-1774/314-968-1010, Clockmaster, Inc. – Robert Good
2537 So. Brentwood Blvd. St. Louis, Missouri 63144
DENNIS KAYE
DIAL
REFINISHING
BEFORE
AFTER
Quartz Conversions
Diamond Dial Conversions
Emblem & Name Personalization
Write for Brochures
INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC.
58 W. SUGARTREE
P.O. BOX 970
WILMINGTON, OH 45177
(937) 382-4535
DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY,
quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet
positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to:
KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA 98032;
(253) 852-5125
Visit our website for more information
www.specialtymetalsrefiners.com
WANTED: USED SILVER OXIDE BATTERIES
$$WANTED ANYTHING$$
Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling- Panerai - Le Coultre
Vacheron - AP - Etc.
Albena Jewelry & Watch Services
All types of wrist and pocket watches repaired • Bezels and
backs for all types of watches restored or made from base and
precious metals • Watch cases, bracelets and links repaired or
made from precious and base metals. Brooklyn, NY
718-998-3560 or 702-612-8111
Call Toll Free 1-800-208-2608
Specialty Metals
Payout: $60/lb. and up for used silver oxide batteries. Free
secured shipping & pickup. Payment issued immediately. You
can DONATE all or portion of EARNINGS TO AWCI’S ELM TRUST
as tax write off. For details contact: [email protected]
800-764-7458 • www.batterybuyers.com
Kundo Coil / Electric Clock Service
Prompt Reliable Service . . . Guaranteed™
Call Us or Visit dialrepair.com
Entire Watch Collections
Scrap Watchbands
Gold-Filled Cases & Scrap
Gold, Silver & Platinum Scrap
wanted to buy
Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts
Paying for Valjoux 69,72,88 up to $800.00, Venus 178 $300,
Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, Movado 90,95 $300.00. Also
buying high-grade movements and parts. Dean Sarnelle,
25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401, 1-866-877-8164,
[email protected].
Large Supply of Watch Movements &
Parts for LeCoultre, Wittnauer & Longines
WANTED!
Service/Sales of Timing and Cleaning Machines
Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster
Over 14 years experience
Quick repairs & reasonable prices
www.timemachinerepair.com
Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or [email protected]
108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513
888-363-9510 • 540-SERVICE
Porcelain Dial Restoration
Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock
Platform Escapement Repair
Atmos Parts & Service
400-Day Clock Repair
ads
2490 Black Rock Tpke.
Fairfield, CT 06825
203-366-2500 - Local
800-884-7966 - Fax
[email protected]
Member: Jewelers Board of Trade
Buying Gold-Plated Watchbands $20 lb. & Up!
Gold-Filled-Even More!
Earnings can go to AWCI’s ELM Trust (if desired).
Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Movements, Crystals,
Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books,
Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, ANYTHING!
Doug Giard, 586-774-3684
FREE SECURED SHIPPING/PICK UP
PAYMENT ISSUED IMMEDIATELY
877-670-7799
[email protected] • watchbatterybuyers.com
WANTED WATCH BOXES
Buy - Sell - Trade
We want most major brands. Also buying high-end
jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684
WE BUY WATCHES
Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Breitling, Audemars,
Tudor and others. Modern or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684
Top prices paid
for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold
fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment
return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN
METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC
29401. Established 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073
HAMILTON 505 BALANCE COMPLETES WANTED
Paying $20 each. Must have good coils/hairsprings. Wornout contacts okay. René Rondeau, PO Box 391, Corte Madra,
CA 94976. [email protected].
GetFor$60
lb—And UP!
Used Silver Oxide Batteries
Earnings can go to AWCI’s ELM Trust (if desired).
FREE SECURED SHIPPING/PICK UP
PAYMENT ISSUED IMMEDIATELY
877-670-7799
[email protected] • watchbatterybuyers.com
48
BUYING SILVER OXIDE BATTERIES
(855) 243-8724
Will pay 2-times cost of silver per pound
for your old silver oxide batteries. Recycle
lithium watch batteries at no charge. Free
shipping (label provided). We donate .1% of
our AWCI earnings to the ELM Trust.
www.globalbatterybuyers.com, [email protected]
ROLEX PARTS WANTED
Buying Rolex crowns, crystals and material,
new stock only. Also buying Rolex watches,
bracelets and movements any age.
Call Paul at 978-256-5966
or e-mail [email protected]
Did You Know?
Your AWCI membership includes:
•
•
•
•
$2,000 no-cost accidental death &
dismemberment benefit
Comprehensive health insurance programs
Discounted rates on credit card processing
Personal property insurance programs
Call AWCI for information:
866-367-2924
Classifieds Continued
awci
directory
Phone: 800-541-5494 Fax: 800-341-8373
w w w. c r t i m e . c o m
services
We also fit glass crystals to
Openface, hunting, and English
chain drive watches.
Complete watches, dials,
movements, case springs for sale
G F Specialties
1-800-351-6926
P.O. Box 170216
Milwaukee, WI 53217
www.gfspecialties.com
Repair | Restoration
All Brands · Warranteed Work · Free Estimates
Mention Code HT2011 and Enjoy 15% Off
chelseaclock.com | 800 284 1778
ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE
ADVERTISER’S INDEX
Borel & Co., Jules
(816) 421-6110
inside front cover
Butterworth Clocks, Inc.
(563) 263-6759 ...................................... 25
Cas-Ker Co.
(513) 674-7700 ............................... 6 & 10
Chronos/WJR
(303) 296-1600........................................ 17
Eckcells
(800) 514-1270 ....................................... 20
Energizer
energizer.com ........................................ 22
Greiner Vibrograf
greinervibrograf.ch ............................... 31
Livesay’s, Inc.
(813) 229-2715 ......................................... 19
Magnum Power Products
(480) 205-2193 ...................................... 45
Renata
(800) 527-0719 ..................... back cover
Watch Around
watch-around.com ............................... 29
Witschi Electronic Ltd.
011 32 352 05 00 .................................... 30
INDUSTRY ADVISORY BOARD
Phone: 800-541-5494
Fax: 800-341-8373
w w w . c r t i m e . c o m
Movado Group Inc.
SWISS WATCH
SERVICE GROUP,
INC.
Horological Times Advertising Policy
The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any
advertisements not in keeping with the publisher’s standards. The publisher July,
at the publisher’s sole discretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to
publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads
shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher reserves the right to
edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agree to assume liability for all content
of advertisements printed. They will also accept responsibility for any claims or suits
arising therefrom brought against the publisher. Printed articles July also be used
without permission expressly sought, or payment made, on www.awci.com or the
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Facebook page.
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
701 Enterprise Dr.
Harrison, OH 45030
Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI • 513-367-9800
Fax: 513-367-1414
[email protected] • www.awci.com
Electra Steam
We are Factory Authorized Service for:
• Greiner VIBROGRAF
• TICK-O-PRINT & L&R
We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate
recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience.
190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903
Used Equipment Bought & Sold
For Information
(415) 479-8960
www.electronicinstrumentservice.com
WE THANK THE IAB
AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their
ongoing support of the Institute and the industry.
Simon Golub & Sons, Inc.
Need to find parts and repair
tips? Join our online forums:
www.awci.com
PTRC Inc.
Richemont
49

This Month`s Focus: What`s New: New Equipment, Tools

Transcription

Similar documents

Part 2

to be a watchmaker

April 2015

PDF Version

A Special Double Issue

american watchmakers-clockmakers institute september

Historical Perspective on the Spring Bar Timing Machines

Watchmaking Spirit

0 - Singapore Management University

PDF - Totally Worth IT

american spirit - Keith Strandberg

G.I. Joe tells time

May 6_Briarwood

35-41 - the NAWCC!

In 2010 the world got its first glimpse of Pequignet`s in