Viva Daily - 27 Aug 2015

n e w z e a l a n d fa s h i o n w e e k
Daily
FIND MORE
EXCLUSIVE COVERAGE AT
viva.co.nz/FASHIONWEEK
V i va . c o . n z
I
t received the most enthusiastic
cheer of NZ Fashion Week so far.
Emerging brand Harman Grubisa
(pictured) showed a promising
and polished collection last night
I n A s s o c iat i o n w i t h
that was an “ode to the women who hold
their own”.
It furthered the day’s theme of talented
young female designers to watch,
with Lucilla Gray holding a morning
The Sound of Zambesi
Memories with former
fashion editor Stacy Gregg
The first song of a runway show is so
crucial I cannot describe its value. It is the
mood-setter — and it defines all else that
will follow. If the runway music is lame or
predictable or try-hard in any way it taints
everything. It is the fear of this that drives
many designers to go for the “safety option”
— choosing well-worn songs that they have
been assured by their crew are “cool”.
Zambesi have never needed to worry
about being cool and they have never
been safe. Their innate confidence in
their own mojo has led them to make
astonishing musical choices over the years
at NZFW. My favourite moment would be
watching the models come out in beautiful,
ephemeral stone-grey georgette gowns
to the lilting voice of Dolly Parton doing a
heartbreaking rendition of Led Zepplin’s
Stairway to Heaven.
It’s not like the mood was always wistful
though at a Zambesi show. At times their
song choices were powerful, dramatic and
even comedic. The theme from Jaws being
blasted through a cavernous boatyard
had everyone startled, bug-eyed and on
the edge of their seats when it was used
to open the runway show in 2006. Their
most music-dependent show though, would
be their rock ‘n’ roll performance at the
St James Theatre, with its PJ Harveyesque undertones, and models stalking
the stage looking very soigné-grunge
while Pluto performed in the background.
I went home that night desperate to buy
the very Courtney Love full-length pink
satin gown and with half a mind to dust off
my Fender Stratocaster. The guitar band
never happened (who was I kidding?) but
that dress is genius and it is still in my
wardrobe.
Zambesi will close NZFW tonight.
Thursday August 27, 2015
installation presentation of her latest
collection, followed by group shows from
ITZME and Julian Danger, and lingerie
brand Her Apparel and sleepwear brand
Willa and Mae.
How to hide
your hangover
By Anna Lee
If you were up until the wee hours at Stolen
Girlfriends Club's 10th birthday bash at the
St James Theatre last night, here are five
simple steps to hide your hangover:
Wear large, dark sunglasses. If no one can
see your colossal eye bags, are they really
even there?
Grab the coconut water from your goodie
bag as soon as you get to your seat. No
one suspects the health conscious.
Download a fresh set of filters for the gram.
#instagood #instalike
Wear a big hat — perfect to hide under,
and so fashion!
Distract the person sitting next to you
with tales of your crazy night. Ideally they’ll
think you’re too cool to suffer anything so dull
as a hangover.
1
2
3
4
5
Later still, the fashion crowd
continued the celebratory mood at Stolen
Girlfriends Club’s show and 10 year party
at the St James Theatre.
Photography / Guy Coombes
Today’s
Highlights
12pm Miromoda showcase
5pm Project Runway winner
Sean Kelly
6pm Hailwood
8pm Ruby
9pm Zambesi
FOLLOW Us
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Twitter @NZHViva
Facebook.com/NZHeraldViva
Snapchat @NZHViva
Daily
n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Thursday August 27, 2015
I n A s s o c iat i o n w i t h
The Many Faces of…
model EMMA BOYD
Photography by James K. Lowe
Read Katherine Lowe’s interviews with the top models of the
week at Viva.co.nz/FashionWeek
the CLAWS
ARE OUT
“Real People”
Review the Shows
By beauty editor Janetta Mackay
Few trends divide people quite so much
as nail art. Love it or loathe it, it’s hard
to ignore that this is the latest frontier
of beauty artistry. Finger painting is
being given ever-increasing attention
backstage and looks are scrutinised
afterwards, helping spark nail bar crazes.
Along with celebrities such as
Rihanna, fashion shows lead the way in
influencing crazes for the likes of pointy
nails, the negative space manicure
and coloured French tips. The original
French manicure was created as an
elegant foil for fashion. My how things
have moved on with graphic looks,
feature nails, op-art explosions and
glitter tips all amping up the special
effects.
“Keep a look out for street style
pics as many of the guests will have
incredible nails,” says Pop Nails artist
Imogen Bevan who will be crafting
looks for several Fashion Week shows.
Designers are increasingly adding nails
to hair and makeup in their pre-show
beauty briefs.
O.P.I. expert Cheryl Cooke is working
on ombre ends this season, while
Bevan says other trending effects are
watercolouring and chromatic decals.
Almond shaped nails are still about and
coffin shapes are another look if you
have the length. Polish-wise, heading
into spring-summer, look out for
translucent colour, nude and neons and
chromes and raspberries.
Our volunteers away from Fashion Week are back! This
time they weigh-in on a look from NZFW first-timer Lucilla
Gray. This was one of her more daring looks from a strong
collection presented off-site yesterday morning
Nina Rejthar, 10 year-old.
“This man reminds me of a duvet.
If you are half naked under it,
you’re supposed to be hot, aren’t
you? And if you have a big cloak
over top that means you’re going
to get hotter. He looks like he’s just
been to the hairdressers. I have
never seen a man with so much
gel on his head. His waist-high
shorts are school shorts. I’m pretty
sure he’s fake smiling and thinking
to himself, what am I doing? It
reminds me of going to bed. I
dread going to bed.”
David Skipwith, New Zealand
Herald rugby league reporter
“This would work great for a
fashion-conscious frostbite patient
at a hospital in Antarctica. I love
duvets, but hate puffer jackets
and hospitals, and this sterile
and presumably unfinished piece
channels the worst elements of all
three. It looks like it could have
used a bit of a shake-up before
hitting the catwalk too BTW, as
the warm filling has shifted off
the shoulders to hang like dead
weight at the bottom. No thanks,
I’d rather freeze to death.”
Jade Ingram,
early childhood teacher
“Not quite sure where to start?
Perhaps he has just got out
of bed, bringing the duvet
with him, or it’s a new form
of hospital gown being tested
on patients. On the positive
side, multipurpose is the word
I should be using. Where and
whoever would wear this out in
public, I do not know.”
Photos / Michael Ng
R U N WA Y h i g h l i g h t s
Lucilla Gray
ITZME
Willa & Mae
Harman Grubisa
See more LOOKS from the shows at Viva.co.nz/fashionweek
V i va . c o . n z / F A S H ION W E E K
2 4 H o ur s at N Z Fa s h i o n W e e k
Nom*D
Lucilla Gray
Andrea Moore
Twenty-seven Names
Nom*D
with photographer James K. Lowe
Daily
n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Thursday August 27, 2015
I n A s s o c iat i o n w i t h
Sean Kelly’s Next Project
The Project Runway winner will debut his first collection tonight
H
e’s the Kiwi who won over
Project Runway stars Heidi
Klum and Tim Gunn to
take out season 13 of the
popular show. Heidi still
raves about the dress Sean
Kelly memorably created, with dye built
into the seams so that it turned from white
to multi-coloured when “rain” fell from the
ceiling.
“He is a great designer — a beautiful
human being,” she told Viva earlier this
year.
“He’s very technically gifted, and had
some great ideas. I mean, he had some of
the best designs I feel like I’ve seen over
the last 12 years of doing Project Runway.
His ‘Rain Walk’ dress was incredible. When
a designer comes up with something that
is new, when a model walks down, it gives
me goosebumps, my hair stands up and I’m
like, wow!”
Tonight, all eyes will be on Sean once
again, to see what he brings to the runway
at New Zealand Fashion Week. He admits
to feeling the pressure, not just here
but from overseas, too. “There’s a lot of
spotlight on me internationally as well, the
whole production of the show — everyone
wants to know what I am doing next.”
Luckily, he says, he lives for highpressure situations — it’s at these times
that he produces his best work.
What to expect tonight? It will be a
25-piece collection, the biggest he has
Happy Birthday
Hailwood!
Designer Adrian Hailwood celebrates 15 years,
with a glamorous show at NZFW tonight
Photo / Anna Lee
Interview by Rosie Kelway
ever put together. The show will run
in two halves. The first will see a more
commercial collection Sean plans to sell
online before hopefully picking up stockists
overseas, while the second half will be
made up of standout show pieces.
“With intricate detailing and one offpieces, one garment has taken four weeks
to make, it’s all hand embroidered. So
there’s quite a dynamic mix you are going
to see in the collection.”
The 25-year-old says the more elaborate
garments will be made for private orders.
He envisages the Sean Kelly brand sitting
in what he describes as a new pocket
of retail. “I like to call it mid-luxury, not
luxury, because luxury is meant to be
exclusive and limited to only a few. But
since the recession, a pocket of the industry
has emerged, with brands such as Phillip
Lim and Acne creating really high quality
material, at prices that are attainable. Not
everyone can afford it but there’s a higher
percentage of people that can.”
His debut collection, which he has been
working on for three months, is based
around the artist’s muse, and tells a story
that will get more extravagant as the
runway show goes on.
“Often it is a servant or a mistress that
best was a young woman coming up to me
saying that she had chosen to wear a dress
of mine for her 21st and how special it was
as her mother had chosen it with her; she
lost her mum six months after her birthday.
That has always stayed with me.
dress; people still remember that piece.
Writer Stacy Gregg still has hers; it’s been
around the world 10 times. I hope she’ll
wear it to one of her Pony Club Secrets
movie premieres one day!
How has the brand changed — and what has
stayed the same?
Well we really were just a T-shirt brand for
the first year — it was all about the prints,
then I moved on to denim skirts with big
animal prints. I think I made 800 flamingo
white denim skirts — hideous, ha ha! We
still do a lot of placement print on tees
and knitwear but have diversified into full
ranges of ready to wear, evening, denim
and shoe lines. I still love the illustration
side of print and still do all the print designs
for all the ranges, like in the beginning.
How have you seen the industry change over
those 15 years?
What have been the biggest moments for you
personally, and for the brand?
Starting my T-shirt brand at the very start,
stocking Kirsty Gregg’s stores; working
in Sweden for Absolute label was a great
project working with other peers from
around the world including Bora Aksu
and Henrik Vibskov. Gorgeous Ella [Lorde]
wearing my sequin gown on the cover of
Billboard was such a thrill — she really
is a superstar with brains and all round
gorgeousness. There are many, but the
The business of fashion has always been
the same ... you get back what you put in
and yes it’s tough but hard work pays off.
I’ve had some lucky breaks and support
over my career; it’s what you make out of
it; nothing gets handed to you. I feel the
business of fashion is a changed beast
from when I first started: markets have
shifted with price pointing, manufacturing,
competition is stiff. You have to juggle
these components all together. It’s more the
business of fashion than designing pretty
frocks, where it was the opposite when I
started. You have to evolve.
What are your memories of your first time
showing at NZFW?
Pure excitement — it was a group show
at the Auckland Town Hall. It was the
show with the green swallow print wrap
becomes iconic and adored through a
painting — a common person who was
accidently turned into an idol, like the Girl
With a Pearl Earring or Mona Lisa. These
people often become icons.”
There will also be an installation with
reflective mirror artwork set up on the
runway created by Auckland-based spatial
artist Angus Muir, much like the newly
opened Len Lye Centre in Sean’s hometown
of New Plymouth.
Overseas, Sean has worked for Danish
designer Henrik Vibskov, whose fashion
shows are based around massive
installations, which Sean says is often his
favourite part of a presentation. “I am
interested in spatial design as well as fine
art and sculpture, It’s not just the clothes
that I am interested in, it’s the story, the
feel, the atmosphere, the music that also
helps to complement the clothes.”
The team behind tonight’s show is what
Sean describes as a “dream team”, with
Matt Benns from Stephen Marr heading
up hair and Kiekie Stanners from M.A.C
directing the makeup. Over the weekend
he shot his lookbook with photographer
James K. Lowe.
After he presents the collection tonight,
Sean will be jetting off to New York,
where he is planning a casual off-schedule
presentation during New York Fashion
Week. Following that he will hold a
showcase at Dallas Fashion Week, before
returning to live in New York — and watch
the finale of Project Runway season 14.
Danielle tries it on
Fashion student and Viva intern
Danielle Clausen showcases the
work of young designers to watch
You’ve been known for your show-stopping
gowns at NZFW. What is it about them that
continues to inspire you?
I like doing eveningwear, not going to
lie. I enjoy making garments that aren’t
just about the business side, which, don’t
get me wrong, that’s the most important
thing — it has to make money and be a
viable business — but I feel shows need
a little bit extra. Half the garments you
see on a lot of the runways overseas
are never put into production. It’s a fine
balance; you don’t want to do too much
as it detracts, you just need a few wow
pieces to make it a little less ordinary.
That Nicky Watson blue gown was a Fashion
Week moment. What happened to the dress?
That dress was originally made several
years before, for my second individual
show at Fashion Week. It was made by a
very clever Chilean lady, Elizabeth Ramos
Ghirelli, all by hand crochet. The dress is
in the archive.
What can you tell us about the collection
you’ll show at NZFW tonight?
It’s an homage to my manufacturing base,
Hong Kong, so lots of lucky Lion and
dragon motifs and the chrysanthemum,
China’s national flower, featuring in
embroidery print and sequin patterns. I
have added a few more evening pieces
to the end part of the show, and looked
at Chinese sculpture which is featured in
silk Shantung trousers and dresses. The
range is called Lion Heart.
The beauty of Jarrad Godman’s garments
is their potential to morph; clever pattern
cutting, ties and straps mean his pieces can
be anything from gothic to Grecian.
Graduating from AUT just last year,
Jarrad has hit the ground running. His
spring collection is a humorous exploration
of an identity crisis faced after graduating
from university, a sense of sarcasm runs
rife. The screaming pink and double
entendre T-shirt slogans exemplify this
tone. Pink and dresses are two things that I
normally shy away from, but the subversive
nature of Jarrad’s designs makes me feel
like I can get away with them.
@jarradgodman
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Daily
n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Thursday August 27, 2015
I n A s s o c iat i o n w i t h
Focus On:
Olivia Fleming
The New York-based writer and
founder of jewellery line Olivia Kane
— mood rings for grown-ups — is back
home for Fashion Week
What websites do you frequent?
Illustrating the Trends
The New York Times, Vogue.com,
Elle.com, Women’s Wear Daily, and
Aftertastes — my best friend’s literary
food website, which everyone should read.
by Sean Cai
What does your typical day look like?
Early to rise, and early to bed. I live close
to Brooklyn’s best outdoor swimming pool,
so I do laps first thing in the morning,
write until lunchtime — usually at home
or a cafe — and then spend the afternoon
working on my newly-launched line of
mood rings, Olivia Kane. Dinner is always
eaten out with friends; or my boyfriend
and I will grab takeout and head to the
park. Sadly, New York has ruined my
ability (or need) to cook.
What’s your handbag – and what’s in it?
the shows for Vogue.com — and secretly
coming home to say happy birthday to my
grandmother whose birthday is also this
week.
Tell us about your first NZFW? I was an
assistant at Fashion Quarterly, when
RunwayReporter.com was still around. My
ex-boyfriend was actually modelling in the
shows, so it was a lot of fun.
Three designers you’re loving right now?
Harriet Were (aka Harry’s Handknits),
Joseph Altuzarra, and LA-based basics
brand Trois.
What did you have for breakfast? Black
iced coffee, plus home-made granola with
raspberries and almond milk.
Five items you couldn’t live without?
My phone, Re/Done jeans, a white T-shirt,
Aesop body balm, and my Gigi Burris
sunhat. (It’s summer in New York).
If you could spend 10 minutes in a room
with anyone, who would that be? Probably
Hillary Clinton, there are so many things
I’d love to ask her.
Flamenco Style
Combine flowers, frills, flounces and lace with ruffles and it’s not hard to envisage
some sort of 80s prom dress horror — but not when Erdem Moralioglu is on the job.
The London-based designer references the trend for oversized ruffles for Resort 2016,
tastefully balancing proportions.
The
M.A.C x Giambattista
Valli lipstick in
Bianca B $44.
Kenzo sandals,
$560, from Runway Shoes.
NZFW
EDIT
ROSIE KELWAY,
VIVA WRITER
I’m not sure if it’s the 70s trip down memory lane
that has taken over the fashion world, but I’m
finding myself drawn to suede or anything with
a camel, caramel, nude or golden hue — laptops
included. I’ve even found myself seeking out
denim flares. When it comes to Fashion Week,
yes, being practical is probably the right answer,
but I much prefer to put my showiest foot forward
and dress up. Hence the floor-length Georgia
Alice dress and sparkly Mi Piaci heels I’m wearing
here. My regular wardrobe consists of a lot of
denim, preferably worn-in Levi’s with a leather
jacket and a bright lipstick. When I’m not wearing
denim and having withdrawals, this denim-esque
Louis Vuitton Petit Malle Epi clutch seems like the
perfect companion to any outfit. And Beyonce has
these wooden Ray-Ban Clubmasters sunglasses
so, of course, I want them too.
Lonely Hearts rib knit
crop top $115.
Kate Sylvester
leatherette skirt $445,
with tie belt $145.
Acne biker jacket, about
$4637, from Net-A-Porter.com
Ray-Ban sunglasses,
$545, from Sunglass Hut.
Photo / Guy Coombes
What are you doing at NZFW? I’m covering
I’m carrying my Mansur Gavriel mini
bucket bag. There is Kora lip balm, face
mist and hand cream in there always;
plus red lipstick, sunglasses, my phone,
a notepad, pen, and a portable phone
charger. Also an overstuffed Comme des
Garcons wallet, thousands of receipts, and
there’s probably some sand in there at the
moment, too.
What’s your beauty routine? Thanks
to the advice of Peach and Lily’s Alicia
Yoon, I have started using Korean
beauty products. Morning and night I
cleanse with a Cremorlab Gel followed by
Aromatica Sea Daffodil Mousse. For day I
use a Cremorlab serum, and for night I’m
addicted to the Mizon Snail Repair Cream,
and the Cremorlab eye cream. I don’t
really wear makeup other than mascara,
if I have a meeting, or red lipstick at night
— so it’s pretty quick.
Louis Vuitton clutch
$7750.
@rosiekelway
Apple Macbook $2399.
Stockists: Apple apple.com/nz, Kate Sylvester (09) 307 3282, Lonely Hearts (09) 376 1566, Louis Vuitton louisvuitton.com, M.A.C (09) 358 4200,
Net-A-Porter.com, Runway Shoes (09) 522 0808, Sunglass Hut (09) 379 0730.
V i va . c o . n z / F A S H ION W E E K
v i va a g end a
Tonight’s The Night
Usually when designers present new collections
at Fashion Week, consumers must wait at least
six months before they can actually buy them.
At Ruby’s off-site show this evening, however,
shoppers will be able to buy the range straight off
the runway, in a NZFW first.
The new collection will be available for purchase
directly after Ruby’s show in the form of a one
night only, pop-up store within the show venue.
The 15-piece collection will also be available online
tonight and in Ruby stores tomorrow.
Ruby designer Deanna Didovich says she and
her team were looking for a way to push the
retail side of their business. “The whole retail
environment has changed so dramatically and we
are such a retail focused brand, it made complete
sense that we would have an in-season show.”
The range takes inspiration from dance,
specifically an Erwin Blumenfeld photo of Russianborn ballerina, Alexandra Danilova.
• Ruby top, $189, skirt, $269, belt, $85, and
earrings $129. Available online tonight, and
at ShopViva.co.nz and Ruby stores tomorrow
morning. Ph (09) 522 6658.
Selfies with Jess
Co-designer for Harman Grubisa, Jessica Grubisa also has a
formidable sense of style. Each day this week, she’ll share her
favourite accessory selfies.
WIN!
Stolen Girlfriends Club
and Samsung have teamed
up with three fashion
photographers – James K.
Lowe, Harriet Were and Loic
Quedec – to capture the best
moments of the brand’s 10th
birthday celebrations at New
Zealand Fashion Week. The
photographers have each
used the new Samsung GS6
to document all the behindthe-scenes action at Stolen
Girlfriends Club and shared their exclusive images on their personal
Instagram accounts.
You, too, can get your hands on an amazing new Samsung GS6 —
plus your favourite Stolen Girlfriends Club outfit from the catwalk. All
you have to do is follow @samsungnz on Instagram and re-gram your
favourite image using the hashtag #stolenlovessamsung to go in the
draw. Easy!
LATE
NIGHT
FEASTS
The Viva team reveal their favourite
places to eat after hours
“There’s something disgustingly satisfying
about chowing into a plate of the Montreal
poutine at the Federal Delicatessen,
especially if it’s after 11pm. I’m yet to
try the Buffalo Wings, also on the late
shift menu, but I’m sure they wouldn’t
disappoint either.” — Jessica Beresford,
digital content producer
“I’m not afraid to admit that I love
McDonald’s. It is a guilty pleasure,
and a squishy Filet-O-Fish burger or
Cheeseburger tastes particularly good
after a few drinks. Failing that, a ham and
cheese toasted sandwich from The White
Lady is a dreamy way to end the night.”
— Dan Ahwa, fashion editor
The put on my shades cause
my future’s so bright selfie
My favourite sunglasses! They were my first
Acne Studios purchase and I struggle to let them
leave my face. I’m wearing them with a Harman
Grubisa space mesh jacket and white shirt.
“I like to pretend I keep going back to
Fatima’s because the fish kebabs or
falafels are a vaguely healthy takeaway
choice, but it’s probably the potato koftas I
crave late at night.” — Janetta Mackay,
beauty editor
“My obsession with Giapo is so great that
I’ve learned all the quick exits from The
Civic theatre in order to beat the queues.
Nick Cave was a glorious night, the icing
on the cake being a siamu popo (Samoan
caramel) icecream for the road. And I
ate my own body weight in the Raglan
Coconut and Napier quince flavour during
Daily
the recent film festival. Late at night is the
only time to go; I could never handle the
hordes during daylight hours.”
— Rebecca Wadey, wellbeing editor
“One of the best hidden spots in central
Auckland is Tanuki’s Cave, a yakitori and
kushiage bar. Yes, it is really tricky to get a
table, but all good things take time, right?
Order cold or warm sake and a bowl of
cabbage with Japanese mayo to get you
started. This place has a great atmosphere,
delicious food and is good for a group or
just two people. You won’t regret a trip
here.” — Rosie Kelway, writer
“After a show, launch or boozy night out
there’s no better place to be than the
booths at the Late Night Diner. Open till
2am and conveniently located on Ponsonby
Rd, the deep-fried gherkins, burgers,
and hard shakes (milkshakes laced with
alcohol) will keep your belly happy until the
wee hours.”
— Anna Lee, editorial assistant
“For a late night feast I can always count
on Jack Tarr to have the best choices to
feed my appetite — I welcome the pizza
and fries, not to mention the waterfront
scenery and the inner-city location.”
— Lucy Casley, design and digital
assistant
Managing editor Amanda Linnell. Associate editor Zoe Walker. Fashion editor Dan Ahwa. Beauty editor Janetta Mackay. Writers Rosie Kelway, Jessica Beresford, Rebecca Barry Hill.
Photographer Guy Coombes. Designers Sue Pat, Beth Walsh, Lucy Casley. Sub editor Fiona Ralph. Editorial assistant Anna Lee. Intern Danielle Clausen.
Contributors Sean Cai, Jessica Grubisa, Stacy Gregg, Katherine Lowe, James Lowe, Dan Roberts, David Skipwith, Jade Ingram, Nina Rejthar. Advertising Michelle Fowler.
Contact us [email protected]
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