Fall 2010 - Gloffke Design

Transcription

AFFLUENT PAGE
september 2010
MEN’S BESPOKE
FASHION ISSUE
The English Standard
Anderson & Sheppard’s
bespoke designs
The Ride
Ferrari’s 599 GTO
Insider
Michael Toschi
Premier
Collections
for
Fall 2010
Dunhill, bespoke suit, pricing up to $9,000
LUXURY index
PHOTOGRAPHED BY BOB KRIEGER
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c o n te nts
Features
SE P T E M B E R 2 0 1 0
59
47 This is Not Your Father’s Suit
From Zegna to Dunhill, we invite you to explore
eight looks for the accomplished man.
68 The English Standard
Anderson & Sheppard understands that sometimes
made-to-measure isn’t enough.
75 Iconic American Style
Ralph Lauren defines the evolution of an American classic.
50
12 AFFLUENT PAGE LUXURY INDEX | SEPTEMBER 2010
52
c o n te nts
Departments
SEPTEMBER 2010
AT FLEXJET, OUR JOURNEY TO EXCEED EXPECTATIONS
is nonstop.
24
032
24 The Ride
88 Design
32 Time
92 Indulge
38 Sparkle
96 Last Word
The 599 GTO is Ferrari’s
latest supercar.
Blancpain’s Carrousel Répétition
Minutes Le Brassus may not turn back
time, but it certainly offers a new spin.
De Grisogono’s latest work, once
again, proves that black is in.
40 Perfection
When setting the standard, Scabal
goes back to basics.
Brioni designs cinematic grace
for the world traveler.
Gurkha’s His Majesty’s Reserve offers
an alternative for those who need to
do more than blow smoke.
Valextra’s alligator briefcase
prepares for the hunt.
92
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82 Insider
Even in fashion, Michael Toschi
builds from the ground up.
© 2010 Bombardier Inc. *Unregistered or registered trademark(s) of Bombardier Inc. or its subsidiaries. †Please visit Flexjet.com for terms and conditions. All jet card flights are operated
under FAR Part 135 by U.S. air carriers. Flexjet acts as an agent for the customer when arranging charter travel on aircraft operated under FAR Part 135 by approved U.S. air carriers.
THROCKMORTON FINE ART
luxury index
Published By
Epic One Media, LLC
Founder & Publisher
Mario Jourdan
Creative and Editorial Director
Rosetta Nichole Mitchell
Managing Editor
Ashantá Brown
Graphic Designer
Barry Gloffke
Contributors
Asa Drake
Tom LaPointe
Ralph DiGennaro
Henry Kuryla
Josh Smelko
Tobi Kanter
National Advertising Sales
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Advertising Sales
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Patrick Kennerly
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advertised in its pages. All views expressed in all articles are those
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Copyright © 2010 by Affluent Page Luxury Index, an Epic One
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e d i t o r ’ s l etter
Style is man’s greatest expression of himself.
Where else can we apply as much personal choice and detail? From the cut of a jacket, to the
buckle on a belt, to the color of a pair of socks, each morning a man assembles every aspect of
his appearance, the self he presents to the world-at-large. In creating this issue, we attempted to
define the essential nature and quality of our morning routine.
This is an issue centered on choice. We chose to focus on the best of ready-to-wear, bespoke,
and made-to-measure. Selecting classic brands and innovators within the fashion world, this
month’s publication concentrates on companies which provide the utmost quality. From the
fastest road-ready Ferrari to the finest Gurkha cigar, each item adheres to a creed of opulence
while still upholding the high standard of craftsmanship which is the trademark of our featured
establishments, such as Anderson & Sheppard and Brioni.
Roman philosopher Seneca states, “We live not according to reason, but according to fashion.”
We invite you to explore the extent of your own style, as we offer you a selection of fashion.
Rosetta Nichole Mitchell
Editorial and Creative Director
section
H O R O LO G I CA L M A C H I N E N 0 3
T H E C R E AT U R E
T H E C R E AT O R S
H O R O L O G I C A L L AB
W W W . M B A N D F. C OM
H o r o l o g i c a l M a c h i n e N0 3
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t h e R IDE
Untamed
Stallion
Ferrari’s 599 GTO raises the bar as
their fastest car, yet.
By: Tom LaPointe
The late Enzo Ferrari
is widely quoted as saying that the best Ferrari is “the
next one,” and indeed, the limited edition Ferrari 599 GTO embodies that philosophy in both design
and performance. There are many ways to define the “best” of anything, but if you use the fastest lap
times for a street car on Ferrari’s Fiorano test track as a measure, the GTO now wears the crown. It is the
latest in a long line of so-called “traditional” 12-cylinder, front-engine Ferraris that date to the earliest
days of the company in the late 1940s.
This ultimate Ferrari is essentially a street version of the extremely limited 599XX “advanced
experimental track car,” according to Ferrari CEO Amadeo Felisa. He explains through translation in
the company’s launch video that the company’s goal with the GTO is to construct a front-engine car
that “nobody will ever be able to equal in performance.” And it looks as if they hit their target, because
the GTO happens to be the fastest road car ever made by Ferrari—besting even the legendary Enzo
Ferrari supercar.
SEPTEMBER 2010 | AFFLUENT PAGE LUXURY INDEX
25
the ride
The significance of
this amazing car extends to the GTO name.
According to Ferrari, the car is inspired by
the 599 GTB, which set a lofty standard. The
“GT” designation stands for Gran Turismo
(Grand Touring) and represents the ultimate in
beauty, luxury, and comfort, while the “B” (in
GTB) stands for Berlinetta (coupe) body style.
The “O” in the newest version is for Omologata,
which refers to the historical homologation—
racing requirement—that a certain number of
street versions of a race car had to satisfy in order
to compete on the track. These Omologata cars
were typically the top performers in Ferrari’s
lineup, as the 599 GTO is today.
Ferrari engineers combined traditional
techniques (like higher power and lower
weight) with advanced electronics and refined
aerodynamics to create the ultimate street car.
If greater horsepower leads to happier drivers,
then 599 GTO owners are sure to be among
the happiest in the world. Engineers took the
Enzo-derived 5.99-liter V12 from the GTB and
wrung out an additional 52 horsepower—for an
impressive 670hp at 8,250 rpm—and mated it to
their latest and most complex F1 gearbox, which
can rip shifts in a mere 60 milliseconds.They used
composites and other lighter-weight materials to
shave nearly 200 pounds from the GTB body in
several areas, including the greenhouse (cabin),
brakes, body panels, transmission, and even the
exhaust system, resulting in a curb weight of
3,538 pounds. Aerodynamics, chassis tuning,
and electronics that help keep the car handling
on the very edge of adhesion round out the
package. Even tires and brakes were included in
the makeover.
It’s not as though the GTB is a performance
slouch. In fact, it offers one of the most
incredible driving experiences of any car on the
road, with massive acceleration, a prodigious
grip for cornering, and incredible braking,
all enhanced by the magical cacophony of
12 cylinders screaming under the hood. But
Maranello has upped the performance ante by
a noticeable margin.
According to Ferrari, the GTO can thunder
to 62 mph in a mere 3.35 seconds (about half
a second quicker than the GTB), with a top
speed of 208 mph—definite supercar territory.
And it hits these performance marks in a
package that is as much rolling artwork as it is
an engineering marvel.
“Ferrari engineers combined traditional techniques (like
higher power and lower weight) with advanced electronics and
refined aerodynamics to create the ultimate street car.”
27
the ride
“No eating in the car”
You’re pretty particular about protecting your cars. And so are we.
Speaking of engineers,
the car includes a “Virtual Race Engineer” system that feeds
drivers real-time performance and status data on a dashboard computer screen. Ferrari didn’t release many
other details of the interior other than enhanced paddle shifters that are larger and constructed of carbon fiber.
However, a price sheet reportedly leaked on the Internet shows all manner of aluminum, carbon fiber, Alcantara,
and leather choices, as well as some GTO-specific options, including a roll bar and historic GTO stripes.
With the GTO, Ferrari has created an exclusive vehicle that is likely to be an instant collectible. Estimates for
a $500k list price may be moot, because sources say production is limited to 599 total units, and if you aren’t
already on the handpicked buyer list at the factory, you will probably have to work your dealer and broker
contacts to chase the rare vehicle that makes it to the resale market. For years, the legendary Enzo sold at the
million-dollar mark and higher, even with a list price in the $600k range. The similarity of the GTO styling to
the GTB and absence of over-the-top looks may keep prices from reaching the million-dollar mark, but look
for the GTO value to linger at lofty heights driven by the market for years to come, as Ferrari collectors and
aficionados around the world fight to add this latest cavallino to their stable.
CEO Felisa, says Ferrari wants to build a vehicle that “will always be remembered in the history of our cars,”
and it seems they have succeeded...at least until they make “the next one.”
Ferrari, www.ferrari.com, 201.816.2600
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Ferrari 599 GTO
Manufactured — Italy
List Price — $500,000 (est.)
Available — 2011 (sold out)
Engine — 5.999-Liter V12
Horsepower — 670 hp @ 8,250 rpm
Torque — 457 lb.ft @ 6,500 rpm
Layout — Front engine
Transmission — 6-speed F1 gearbox with paddle shifters
Drivetrain — Rear-wheel Drive
Fuel Economy — N/A
Wheelbase — 108.3 in.
Length — 185.4 in.
Width — 77.2 in.
Curb Weight — 3,538 lbs
Top Speed — 208 mph (manufacturer est.)
Acceleration — 0-62 mph 3.35 sec (manufacturer est.)
Barrett-Jackson Collector Car Auction · Las Vegas, NV · September 23-25, 2010
Consign Today · Call 480.421.6694 or visit Barrett-Jackson.com
Barrett-Jackson does not offer or furnish any insurance coverage or advice. All insurance policies are offered and issued by Chartis through its Private Client Group, and serviced by The Delp Company, an independent insurance agency. Insurance is
underwritten by a member company of Chartis Inc. This is a summary only. Please refer to the actual policies for complete details of coverage and exclusions. Coverage may not be available in all jurisdictions and is subject to underwriting review and approval.
section
Time
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FlyAAG .C Om - SIKOr SKy ShA r e S. C Om
A New
t i me
Spin on Time
The first of its kind, Blancpain’s new Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le
Brassus, with its more masculine inner workings, should appeal to a
man who likes a little heft with his haute.
By: ralph digennaro
Since its founding in 1735,
Blancpain has been putting
industry-leading spins, so to speak, on fine timepieces, so it comes as no surprise that the
venerable Swiss company is back with yet another ground-breaking achievement in the
artistry of grand watch-making: the Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le Brassus.
Combining a flying one-minute carrousel and a cathedral gong repeater, the
Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le Brassus is the first of its kind, taking the
technologically advanced carrousel (French for “merry-go-round”) to
even greater heights of innovation. While some might understand the
complicated mechanical difference between a tourbillon movement
and a carrousel, essentially it comes down to the spinning of minute
and intricate gears and flying wheels.With the Carrousel Répétition
Minutes Le Brassus, Blancpain has created a watch with a special
flying regulator for the minute repeater complication that spins
on its own axis, a movement the company pioneered a couple
of years ago. This time, however, it has been combined with a
cathedral-gong-striking mechanism so the sounding rings are
much longer and much fuller, circling the movement one and
a half times, and resulting in a rich, extended tone.
With the addition of the cathedral gong rings to the inside
of the case, the Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le Brassus rings
with an unsurpassed volume and clarity, a feature that will doubtlessly excite true Swiss watchmaking aficionados who will embrace
this handsome timepiece, notwithstanding its relative affordability at
about $360,000.
“Blancpain has created a watch with a
special flying regulator for the minute
repeater complication that spins on its
own axis, a movement the company
pioneered a couple of years ago.”
t i me
“the 45mm red gold case features a brushed white gold
chapter ring and red gold applied numerals.”
The Caribbean
N
ecklace
One of the more
more telltale differences between
the standard tourbillon (French for
“whirlwind”) movement and the new
carrousel movement on the Carrousel
Répétition Minutes Le Brassus is how
less delicate its inner workings appear. In
truth, the carrousel mechanism and assembly
are intentionally sturdier and ultimately more
masculine than those of its first cousin.
Apart from the complicated movements found
within, the Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le Brassus
has other impressive virtues that befit such a spectacular
and handsome timepiece. To wit: the red gold movement
bridges and main plate are individually hand-engraved. The
45mm red gold case features a brushed white gold chapter ring
and red gold applied numerals. Further, the watch’s combination of an
opened dial center and sapphire caseback “window” provides its owner
with a perfect view of the minute repeater mechanism and hand-carved
movement bridges.
Other aesthetic features of the Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le
Brassus, include an 18-karat brushed white gold dial ring, easy to read
bone-like Roman numeral hour markers and a brown genuine crocodile
strap. The manually wound movement also has a small power reserve
(60 hours) indicator function. Limited to just 10 pieces, the
timepiece was introduced at this year’s Baselworld.
Easily one of the most beautiful skeleton watches
Blancpain has ever produced, the Carrousel Répétition
Minutes Le Brassus will make onlookers turn on their
heels for a second look, an altogether fitting response
given this new spin on style.
Platinum
16.21ct. Yellow Sapphire
from Sri Lanka
2.06ct. Paraiba Tourmaline
from Brazil
220 Diamonds weigh 4.82
carats total weight
Blancpain, www.blancpain.com, 41.21.796.3636
mjmillerjewelers.com
Photo Jimmy Nelson
DANHOV
®
Carved To Perfection™
12.60 ct F-G/vs Diamonds &
18K Rose Gold
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Chicago, IL
312-440-0044
The Ritz-Carlton
Key Biscayne, FL
305-365-4570
section
sp a r k l e
Black Magic
Bewitchingly chic, de Grisogono’s pave diamond
bracelet is a dazzling reminder of the company’s origins.
Luxury Travel: Gilded Escapes
Only two years
after the founding of de Grisogono’s Geneva-based store, Fawaz Gruosi founded de Grisogono S.A.
with the intention of reintroducing black diamonds as desirably rare gems. It was a risky decision. Until the debut of his 1996 collection,
which was composed entirely of black diamonds, these fragile stones had been disregarded by the jewelry industry and faulted for their
color.Yet Gruosi valued their mysterious appeal and was certain he could persuade others to do the same. Since de Grisogono S.A.’s
initial collection, the young company has made black diamonds a must for the independent woman. Imbued with deep color with
strong design, the black diamond has become the symbol of de Grisogono’s brave creativity, and the firm has since gained a reputation as
one of the world’s leading jewelers.The brand continues to be an innovator in its field, having globally expanded with 16 boutiques and
over 189 outlets. Still utilizing often overlooked gems, de Grisogono S.A. even incorporates exotic stingray leather within its collections.
The company’s inventive flair has even led to a new shade of precious metal, Browny Brown Gold.
One of their most recent designs, this particular bracelet invests de Grisogono’s powerful tradition with newfound charm. Artfully
crafted, each diamond appears seamlessly set, allowing for smooth contours and a playful, organic quality. Graceful spirals evoke the
twilight waves of the North Atlantic and moonlight reflecting ageless splendor. As innovative as the company that created it, the cuff
plays with the balance between opulence and simplicity, timelessness and modernity. It is the beauty of opposition. An entanglement
of black and white diamonds, its high contrast and bold, fluid arrangement is not for the faint of heart. Instead, the piece offers
contemporary elegance for the chic woman.
The de Grisogono bracelet is priced at $379,100.
de Grisogono, www.degrisogono.com, 212.439.4248
per f e ct i o n
“Employing only the skilled,
the well-taught, this is not
your average textile mill.”
Perfection is often
Fabric of Success
Precision is elusive, so when
Otto Hertz set out to re-imagine
luxury suiting with Scabal, he
started with the basics.
fundamental,
essential to the object at hand. This is the method
behind Scabal, a company that creates some of the
world’s most inventive fabrics. While the brand does
offer its own made-to-measure line, the business’
essence has not strayed from its founding. The cloth
they manufacture remains the highest quality extant.
Creating 30 to 40 new designs each season for a total
inventory of nearly 5,000 different varieties of fabric,
Scabal requires the finest raw mater ials, and its
collections reflect such selectivity. Since the 1960s,
the company has maintained its reputation as an
unparalleled master in the manufacture of one-of-a-kind
illustrious fabric. Employing only the skilled, the welltaught, this is not your average textile mill. Every
sequence in a fabric’s construction requires a specialist
close-at-hand, but the constant inspection of each
creation comes as no surprise to those who’ve seen the
final work.
With components rang ing from distinctive
cashmere to incorporated diamond fragments, these
fabrics embrace fanciful and costly details while
maintaining a discreet elegance. Nothing is overdone.
Muted colors balance opulence, and Scabal’s advanced
technology assures that its products are more than just
extravagant fabric. Distinguished, these designs become
the underpinnings of sartorial finesse.
The first to create worsted vicuña for suiting, Scabal
weaves the most delicate wool, both rare and beautiful.
The filaments which compose it have a hollow nature
which makes vicuña remarkably warm, yet extremely
fragile. The resulting fabric is left untreated in order to
preserve the sensitive wool. Accordingly, the material
maintains its natural range of color, from a warm gray
t o a r i c h m a h og a ny. E x c l u s ive t o t h e A n d e s
Mountains, the fiber is shorn from the vicuña, a
relative of the llama and believed to be the wild
ancestor of the domesticated alpaca. These slender,
golden animals generally produce just 500 grams of
wool each year, yet they’ve long been the stuff of
legend, an Incan myth. Their fleece has always been
highly regarded, dangerously so, as the popularity of
vicuña wool nearly resulted in the animal’s extinction
in 1825.
41
section
per f e ct i o n
“Referred to as
‘Diamond Chip,’ the fabric
is surprisingly demure.”
Applying the most
sophisticated
and well-guarded techniques, Scabal also offers a line
of “Treasure Box” fabrics, which blend a variety of
precious metals with high-grade wool. The collection
provides fourteen different designs. The most notable
of which offsets gold and platinum flecks against
deep-blue wool. A pinstripe of ultra-thin, 24-karat
gold elegantly denotes reserved indulgence.
Yet the most impressive of Scabal’s fabrics is also the
most subtle. Referred to as “Diamond Chip,” the
fabric is surprisingly demure. Only a slight sheen gives
away its glamorous nature, the result of diminutive
diamonds spread throughout a Super 150’s variety of
wool before the spinning process begins. Deserving of
special attention, the fabric is manufactured at Scabal’s
own English weaving mill in Huddersfield and is
supplemented with silk. The final product is exceptionally comfortable, notwithstanding the interwoven
diamond fragments, and is the ideal suiting material for
the accomplished man.
For the coming season, Scabal seeks a more casual
appeal than has been found at the formal runway shows
of the past year. As an alternative, they have incorporated strong colors into their fall and winter collections.
Relaxed greens, decadent burgundies, and dark
violets introduce contemporary hues and vibrant
elements into a collection that is sure to provide a much
needed escape from the traditional holiday ensembles.
As a modern alternative to wool, the company’s
recent Colorado line weaves superfine cotton for
the ideal informal blazer. The company’s made-tomeasure line also looks for a gentler alternative to
the stiff suit. Their soft jacket boldly omits shoulder
pads, emphasizing a natural fit.
For the idealist, everything must be done from
scratch, built from nothing. Scabal embraces such
a task for those who lack the training in textiles.
Unifying industry and lavish creativity, the company
sets the standard for the uncompromising client.
Top fabrics range in price from $1,000 to $2,900 per yard.
Scabal, www.scabal.com, 516.369.0580
A 1920's ITALIAN-STYLE VILLA LOCATED IN MONTECITO, CALIFORNIA
Offered at $29,000,000
Lucas Lagoons
inc.
perfection
in
luxury.
Timeless exterior designs · From concept to completion · One client at a time
The Pointe - The Ridges
Incredible estate of over 13 thousand square feet on a beautiful hill side. Stunning views, gourmet double island kitchen with the
works, formal dining room with 18 seat custom table and 480 bottle temperature controlled wine cellar, five bedroom suites, master
with it’s own 2,800 sq ft floor, elevator, six car garage, Crestron smart system throughout, Lutron lighting, security cameras at all
perimeters, theater, game room, children’s media room, and more. Spectacular backyard featuring beach entry swimming pool
with three glass windows on the bottom, 12 person spa, outdoor kitchen and uncompromised city, Strip, golf, and mountain views!
You are one of a kind, and you deserve a one-of-a-kind exterior design. Lucas Congdon, President of Lucas Lagoons,
only accepts six to eight projects per year thus assuring you of his undivided attention from concept to completion. Please
visit our web site and then call to reserve one of the limited number of design consultations available.
LucasLagoons.com
941.366.7700
www.LasVegasFineHomes.com
702.400.2400
1215 S. Fort Apache #210 Las Vegas, Nevada 89117
1215 S. Fort Apache #210 Las Vegas, Nevada 89117
Contemporary Meets European
f all su iting
This Is Not
Your
Father’s
Suit
Undeniably
…Amazing!
Sometimes, you
need to check
outside your
This beautiful 5 bedroom
5 full and 2 half baths, 10,000
sqft residence is located in
Naples, Florida, in a Premier
Gated Beach and Bay
Community: Barefoot Beach.
It encompasses stunning
panoramic views of the Gulf
of Mexico and is wired with
the latest Crestron technology!
ready-to-wear
comfort level to
achieve true physical
attainment of
fashion. This fall,
Designed to entertain Celebrity to Royalty,
this home transports you out of the ordinary
into the extraordinary!
Some features include: custom etched glass
elevator, intricate mosaic marble flooring,
elevated dining areas, illuminated cascading
waterfalls, uniquely designed glass blown
lighting systems, an expanded great room w/
fireplace, fiber optic lit ceilings, stair casing
adorned by glass footlights and iron railing, an
entertainment bar and multi-media wall center
opening into a full Chef ’s Gourmet Kitchen,
a private theater: featuring a 106’ screen with
full digital storage system, and every room
framed with stunning views of the Gulf of
Mexico!
This home is complimented by so many
stunning appointments, it’s being pursued for
an Episode on MTV’s Cribs!
cross the pond to try
some new bespoke
designs and tailoring.
Loretta M. Young
Direct 239-450-5022
Toll Free: 888-948-4450
[email protected]
Visit: www.110GuadeloupeLn.com
Day or Night, Sexy and Paradise Never Felt or Looked So Good!
4450 Bonita Beach Rd., Bonita Springs, Fl. 34134
Coldwell Banker Residential Real Estate/ “Owned and Operated by NRT LLC.
Why fashion?
Edward Tivnan might have stated it best when he
said, “Like every good man, I strive for perfection, and, like every ordinary man,
I have found that perfection is out of reach—but not the perfect suit.” This month,
choice is central. Be it a a shirt collar’s exact curve or a touch of unconventional
color, it is the ability to choose that refines a man’s style. In this spirit, go ahead,
take the easy way out of idealism, and enjoy some of this season’s most sumptuous
sartorial collections.
47
f a ll s ui t i ng
The Contemporary
Gaziano & Girling Ltd.
With their display of custom shoes as a tantalizing guide, the tailors of Gaziano & Girling develop footwear to the
needs of each client. These bench-made shoes use only the highest quality leather, which is prepared using ancient
tanning pits. Having worked with premier fashion brands, both Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling chose to take a
more hands-on approach to men’s footwear when they started the company. With contemporary sensibility,
Gaziano & Girling openly encourages its clients to observe the tailor at work. As a result, their shoes display only the
utmost craftsmanship, and continue to garner attention for the artists who create them.
Representative of the company’s bespoke work, these vintage, cherry calfskin semi-brogue “Adelaide” shoes are priced at £2,770.
Dunhill
Gaziano & Girling, www.gazianogirling.com, 44.15.3651.1022
Desiring a sleek, modern silhouette, the contemporary
customer looks for clean cuts and superior fabric, and
Dunhill provides such a wardrobe. The company’s
history is rooted in innovation. At the age of 21, the
progressive Alfred Dunhill took his father’s saddler
business and converted it into an elite motoring
accessor ies company. Since then, the brand has
expanded to provide fashionable menswear by an
in-house tailor. The super fine wool and neutral
tones typical to Dunhill’s suits make for current
and reliable garments.
Made-to-measure options can go up to $5,000 and bespoke
suits may cost as much as $9,000.
Dunhill, www.dunhill.com, 44.84.5458.0779
49
f a ll s ui t i ng
Hermès
The Rebel
Adapting the brand’s classic style for a masculine clientele, the first Hermès Men’s store focuses on bespoke services. The store
understands the role custom tailoring plays in menswear. With detachable elements and reversible pieces, the collection is unexpected.
Designer Véronique Nichanian pairs Hermès quality with individual style, allowing clients to choose from 5,000 fabrics, many of which
are exclusive to Hermès.Their custom leather jacket is lined with the company’s own printed silk, one of many options available through
their bespoke services. Every aspect of the jacket is altered to fit the client and his preferences.The jacket, both youthful and timeless, is a
staple for the coming season. For the adventurous client who needs more than a three-piece suit, Hermès also sells a customized baseball
glove, created with the same thoughtful attention given to all their leather goods.
Price is available upon request.
Hermès Mens Store, www.hermes.com, 212.308.3585
Atelier Yozu
Sometimes there’s no need to play it safe. Exotic
and decadent, Atelier Yozu artfully ornaments
any wardrobe with a newfound edge. Under the
direction of Yur i Kolesov, the company has
designed and even produced fine jewelry, buckles,
and cufflinks for some of the most renowned names
in fashion, from Coach to Harry Winston. Perhaps one
of the industry’s best-kept secrets, Atelier Yozu’s offers
remarkable variation in his cufflink collection. Diamonds and 18
karat gold are cleverly paired with feral motifs and rare materials,
such as mammoth ivory. Superbly crafted, Kolesov’s creations
offer an exciting alternative to mundane accessories.
Snake and gothic cufflinks sell for $4,800 and $5,100, respectively.
Buckles range in price from $650 to $950.
Atelier Yozu, www.yozu.com, 347.752.0923
51
f a ll s ui t i ng
The Dandy
A. Testoni
Always fashionable, A. Testoni has promised clients Italian glamour since the 1930s. From blue suede to crocodile, the brand uses only
the finest materials. Its Bolognese construction offers simultaneous comfort and flexibility. Lined with soft goatskin, the design allows
for a precise fit supported by a hard heel. As an alternative, the brand also adapts traditional Norwegian mountain-boot construction,
stitching the shoe with handmade, linen twine. But no matter the style, A. Testoni’s piuma rapid patented technique guarantees the
lightest and most functional footwear. Using this unique method, each shoe is constructed and subsequently disassembled. The shoe is
then put back together, preserving the original shape. This extra attention allows for a beautiful form which also isolates the foot from
extreme temperatures and harsh weather.
Norwegian construction, Moro alligator monk-strap shoe with
a gold and diamond buckle are available for $37,950.
Bicycle toe shoe in black crocodile are available for $1,700.
A.Testoni, www.testoni.com, 212.399.7733
Lord Willy’s
Lord Willy’s, which opened late in 2005, combines quality English fabrics with New
York City workmanship.The resulting suits are a fun mix for everyone involved, and have
attracted customers of every discernment. Perfect for either Friday afternoons or a night
out on the town, Lord Willy’s tailoring is elegance without compromising your inner child.
Custom blazers begin at $2,600 and suits start at $3,900.
Lord Willy’s, www.lordwillys.com, 212.680.8888
53
f a ll s ui t i ng
The Colonial
Stowers Bespoke
The men who comprise Stowers Bespoke
work to accommodate the needs of the
individual. Nothing is too much for
their patrons, and their dedication shows
in the finished product. Their collection is more reflective of their clients
than of themselves, complementing
each customer’s lifestyle by providing
an expansive wardrobe, from jeans to
eveningwear.
One of many custom pieces, their
well-woven Donegal tweed sports
jacket is complemented by a refined,
crisp cut. This piece is part of a long
tradition for Stowers Bespoke. The
company, although a fairly recent
addition to Savile Row, strives to
uphold the customary practices of fine
British tailoring. Personal and elegant,
Stowers Bespoke’s three tailors assure
that you will not go unnoticed.
Bespoke Donegal Tweed Sports Jacket
is priced at £2,600.
Stowers Bespoke, www.stowersbespoke.
co.uk, 44.20.7287.3080
Cravate Royale
Cravate Royale marries English craftsmanship with Bollywood vibrancy. Adapting its Royale Jewels to the Indian belief that “the
body sees what the eyes cannot,” rose-cut diamonds are embraced within delicate handmade filigree. Their ties use silks straight from
England, with a fanciful dash of color.
Diamond cufflinks are set at $18,000. Silk ties are available for $150 each.
Cravate Royale, www.cravateroyale.com, 925.548.0123
Frosdick of
London
Featur ing unusual Afr ican leathers, Frosdick of
London is one of the few companies that offers zebra
boots. It’s a brave concept for such a new company,
as well as for the nostalgic colonial. Certainly not for
daily wear, these boots are custom-made with the
client’s choice of leather and with options ranging
from antelope to ostrich.
Custom boots in exotic leathers are priced at $6,000.
Frosdick of London, www.frosdickoflondon.com
55
f a ll s ui t i ng
Self Contained
Prada
Prada bags rely primarily on the unsurpassed quality of their construction. Providing some of the most exclusive leather goods in
the fashion world, Prada is well-known for its coveted couture, yet the influential fashion house also offers more mainstream goods.
In its latest products, black saffiano leather plays texture against form. Available in two styles, these compact travel bags are ideal
for day-to-day use, fulfilling function without the fuss of frivolous accents. Easily matched with any wardrobe, they are a worthy
alternative to the standard briefcase.
The large black saffiano leather travel bag retails at $2,100, while the smaller version is available for $1,685.
Prada, www.prada.com, 212.327.4200
Ermenegildo
Zegna
To celebrate Zegna’s 100th anniversary, the fashion house’s
centennial line cleverly blends nostalgia with modern
form. The “fabric number-one,” which unites the
collection, is a re-creation of founder Ermenegildo
Zegna’s first fabric, originally produced in 1910. Made
with superfine wool, the redesigned cloth weighs just
270 grams per meter. For the fall, Zegna shrewdly
adapts classic turn-of-the-century style to the
current decade. A strong pairing made particularly
evident in the centennial line’s holdall, it is a
timeless piece for the man with perhaps too
much on his hands.
Pricing for Zegna products listed: two-button suit
$3295, vest $900, point collar dress shirt $395, silk
tie $175, dress shoe $890, and holdall $1770.
Zegna, www.zegna.com, 212.421.4488
f
57
Pal Zileri
f a ll s ui t i ng
The Charmer
Luck favors the bold. Self-assurance is the charmer’s best trait. In line
with this philosophy, Pal Zileri’s designs lend themselves to the confident
man. An Italian fashion house founded in 1970, the company’s
garments reflect an uncompromising dedication to quality and design.
For the coming season, the brand highlights elegant patter ns,
distinguishing the common suit while still providing the flexibility
of pairing blazers with more casual garments. Strictly inspected raw
mater ials and cultivated craftsmanship assure the finest in
continental style.
Prices available on request.
Pal Zileri, www.palzileri.com, 39.04.4435.6096
Clive Christian
For the fragrance connoisseur, Clive Christian offers the most exclusive scents on the market. The company’s newest cologne “C”
celebrates the decade-long success of the formula entitled “No. 1.” As a nod to Queen Victoria’s Crown Perfumery, the fragrance is
stored within a traditional amber vial, but the cologne is anything but traditional. A deliberate amalgam of saffron and snow lotus, the
scent combines the seductive qualities of the flower, a known aphrodisiac, with the world’s most valuable spice.
A 50 ml vial of Clive Christian’s “C” cologne is priced at $375 and is available at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus.
Clive Christian, www.clive.com, 44.20.7839.3471
59
f a ll s ui t i ng
The Weekender
Ascot Chang
Ascot Chang
Offering the best custom shirts on the market, this Hong
Kong-based family business is quickly gaining popularity
in the States. No detail is overlooked. Each shirt requires at
least 25 different components in a process whereby clients
personally select every aspect of their garment, from the cuff
to the collar’s lining.With patterns designed for the individual,
any variation in anatomy—be it the slope of the shoulder or
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Lorem Ipsum, Dolore
$00,000,000 USD
Lorem Ipsum, www.loremipsum.com, 000.000.0000
George Cleverley & Co.
While predominantly a men’s shoe store offering both bespoke and ready-to-wear varieties, G.J. Cleverley & Co.’s selection of
leather goods should not go unnoticed. Offering a unique variety of Russian leather, the company’s large Gladstone hunting kit
is an exceptional find. The leather, originally manufactured in 1786, has taken centuries to find itself at the quiet store, located
deep in London’s West End. Salvaged from the wreck of the Metta Catharina, which sank during a December storm in 1786, the
skins were surprisingly well-preserved by the Mediterranean’s black mud. Cured in the style of the time, the hides went through
a distinct process, and are further distinguished by the inimitable aroma of birch oil and willow bark.
The Limited Edition Gladstone hunting kit is priced at $8,000.
G.J. Cleverley & Co., www.gjcleverley.co.uk, 44.20.7493.0443
61
f a ll s ui t i ng
The Formalist
Floris
Floris’ bespoke perfume services offer trademark fragrances for selective
individuals. The unique scent lingers as an unforgettable signature. The process
takes six months to complete, during which the client will work directly with
the Floris perfumer to refine the exact blend of essential oils and floral essences
that will become his personal scent. With a minimum of three consultations,
Floris has designed an immersive experience that produces a tincture which is
sure to be the finishing touch for any black tie affair.
Bespoke Perfume Design is available from £2,500.
Floris, www.florislondon.com, 44.20.7747.3600
Davies & Son
Davies & Son was founded in 1803, making it one of the first Savile Row tailors. Proud
of their illustrious history, they made the first uniforms for Sir Robert Peel’s police force
and then fit the royalty of Europe. The company still holds the Royal Warrant for HRH
the Duke of Edinburgh as military tailors exemplified by the sharp cut of their garments.
From Harry Truman to Clark Gable, the establishment is a well-known favorite of the
distinguished.
While their most expensive handmade suit costs $30,000, pricing for their standard two-piece suit
begins at $4,700.
Davies & Son, www.daviesandsonsavilerow.com, 44.20.7434.3016
63
f a ll s ui t i ng
Brand Registry
Dunhill www.dunhill.com 44.84.5458.0779
Gaziano & Girling www.gazianogirling.com 44.15.3651.1022
Atelier Yozu www.yozu.com 347.752.0923
Hermès Mens Store www.hermes.com 212.308.3585
A. Testoni www.testoni.com 212.399.7733
Lord Willy’s www.lordwillys.com 212.680.8888
Stowers Bespoke www.stowersbespoke.co.uk Cravate Royale www.cravateroyale.com 44.20.7287.3080
925.548.0123
Frosdick of London www.frosdickoflondon.comN/A
Prada www.prada.com 212.327.4200
Zegna www.zegna.com 212.421.4488
Clive Christian www.clive.com Pal Zileri
www.palzileri.com G.J. Cleverley & Co. www.gjcleverley.co.uk 44.20.7839.3471
702.732.2100
44.20.7493.0443
Ascot Chang www.ascotchang.com 852.2364.4384
Floris www.florislondon.com 44.20.7747.3600
Davies and Son www.daviesandsonsavilerow.com 44.20.7434.3016
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YourFleetAwaitsyou...
Bespoke Travel Specialists
The Forbidden City, Beijing, China
Whether you are planning a family trip, a honeymoon, a trip with your spouse, a safari
or a golf trip with your buddies, my goal is to develop an itinerary that is tailored to your
needs and preferences which will lead to your most memorable travel experience ever.
Member Tzell Travel Group
CRAIG VAN DOREN T. 973-857-3410
E. [email protected] W. www.travel15.com
e n g l i s h besp ok e
The English
Standard
This season, pride comes before the fall.
by: Asa L. Drake
Just west of Savile Row on Old Burlington Street, Anderson
& Sheppard’s shop window has the comforting dignity typical of a long-established
business. An intimate store, shelves of well-arranged fabrics proudly display the
foundation for Anderson & Sheppard’s tailoring. Nearby, cutters in workrooms busily
review the outlines of future suits. These are the final stages. This is what comes after
the measurements, after the introductions.
The fittings that follow can be much more complicated. A customer usually tries
on a piece two to three times before the garment has been adequately adjusted.
Actively testing the full flexibility of the shop’s custom suits, Fred Astaire was known
to transform Anderson & Sheppard’s fitting room into a small stage, examining his
jacket’s considerate design, its fall, and the way it was cut—full over the chest and
shoulder blades. Although most clients may not depend so heavily on the high, small
armholes and sloped-shoulder standard for the company’s suits, these adjustments
were essential to the performer and still are to any man who desires a full range of
movement while dressed to the nines.
Purely bespoke, Anderson & Sheppard
best solves the discrepancy between custom tailoring and suits that are simply
made-to-measure, by supplying complete specificity and choice to the client. Its
garments utilize a relaxed construction, incorporating the English drape inaugurated
by Frederick Scholte early in the twentieth century. Under the renowned tailor’s
tutelage, the establishment’s co-founder Per Anderson adopted this innovative
method as his own. In 1906, with the partnership of investor Sydney Horatio
Sheppard, Anderson began the firm which until recently was known as No. 30 of
Savile Row. A variation of Scholte’s original design, the English drape—which
Anderson & Sheppard featured for the last century—has certainly become one of
the company’s signature techniques. This is one of many which inspired designer
Tom Ford to praise the firm as “the best tailor in the world.”
“A customer usually
tries on a piece two
to three times before
the garment has been
adequately adjusted.”
69
Limited to their single store
,
the tailors of Anderson & Sheppard do not embrace
the convenient world of mass production.Their designs
continue to be entirely reliant on the individual,
and while each creation adheres to the company’s
style, nothing is pre-made. It is this skillful blend of
personalization and astute technique that attracts so
many notable clients to the establishment. Ralph
Lauren, Calvin Klein, and even the Prince of Wales
wear Anderson & Sheppard suits. Following a timehonored practice, “a minimum of 27 measurements are
taken for a first-time customer—each measurement
still recorded by hand in a leather-bound ledger, just
as Fred Astaire’s, Noel Coward’s, and Laurence Olivier’s
were—and a minimum of 50 man-hours go into the
making of every suit.”These are aspects of the company
that never change.
Not pure fashion, the company makes garments
which can endure a great deal of wear. According
to the firm’s managing director, John Hitchcock, “A
10-year-old suit is considered a new suit.” Each jacket is
made with the intention of becoming an essential part
of a man’s wardrobe, and when well-kept, an Anderson
& Sheppard suit can easily survive 15 years.
“A minimum of 27
measurements are
taken for a first-time
customer.”
In accordance with such quality,
Anderson & Sheppard defines itself based on a tenet of
excellence. Actively publicizing the bespoke industry, the
company collaborates with other firms in order to maintain
the rare niche they represent. This single shop continues
as “the custodian of a great tailoring heritage.” It still
openly “revels in looking forward,” and is still dedicated to
familiarizing each generation with the art of fine tailoring,
according to Hitchcock.
“Their designs continue
to be entirely reliant on
the individual.”
71
Aware that certain traditions
should never be discarded, Anderson & Sheppard maintains a legacy of
distinctive silhouettes and attentive detail. With its creators unwilling to compromise on that intimate collaboration of client and
tailor, each garment remains unique, each design the craftsman’s pride, a work all its own.
Anderson & Sheppard, www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk, 44.020.7734.1420
c lass ic americ ana
Iconic
American Style
From Polo to Purple Label, Ralph Lauren
has brought New England style to the
forefront of international fashion for
four decades.
by: henry kuryla
To Americans, Ralph Lauren
is the portrait
of classic American style. Polo Ralph Lauren just unveiled its largest
European flagship store on the Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris to
showcase a premier assortment of his collections, as well as the designer’s
first restaurant on the continent. Lauren was the first American design
house to establish a boutique in France when he premiered a landmark
store on Place de la Madeleine in the mid-80s, and last year, he opened a
shop on the Avenue Montaigne.
From Polo’s casual, preppy style that America has embraced for over
four decades, to Purple Label’s luxurious, made-to-measure suits, Ralph
Lauren is recognized worldwide as the ambassador of classic American
style.
In 1968, Ralph Lauren started Polo Fashions, the world of traditional,
classic styling that evokes the look of English aristocracy adapted by the
sporty, East Coast American elite. Then in 1972, Lauren debuted what
became his signature piece—the short-sleeved polo shirt, available in a
then unheard of 24 colors and featuring his soon-to-be-famous trademark
emblem of the polo player. It is a stalwart of preppy style and a symbol of
classic Americana. Expanding into everything from women’s apparel to
fragrance, home furnishings, and even restaurants, Lauren created an entire
world that has truly redefined American style.
From the start, Lauren was selling much more than clothing and home
furnishings; he was selling a lifestyle, a dream. The innovator of lifestyle
marketing, he was the first to realize that packaging and presentation
were paramount. Unlike others who were selling individual items, he
focused his advertising, marketing, and merchandising on presenting
idyllic lifestyles amid backgrounds ranging from a cozy, windswept
cottage on the bluffs of Montauk to a magnificent equestrian country
estate in Virginia’s horse country.
75
c l a ss i c amer ica n a
Lauren has had
a tremendous impact on
the way Americans dress and how we live. Exemplifying the
gentrified image he projected, he was the first designer to
appear in his own advertising and was often featured with
his family in magazines chronicling the lives of the stylish,
rich, and famous. The Financial Times recently reported his
firm had revenues of $5 billion for the fiscal year 2009, and
as of 2010, Forbes estimates Lauren’s personal wealth at $4.6
billion, making him one of the most affluent entrepreneurs
in the world.
Taking a popular East Coast trend and turning it into a
lifestyle phenomenon, Polo Ralph Lauren was the original,
iconic symbol of the preppy look. Originating at New
England prep schools and Ivy League colleges, the preppy
look was formerly worn by well-educated, traditionallooking people from well-established, old-monied families
theoretically instilled with conservative Protestant values.
They attended New England prep schools, such as Groton
or Choate, followed by private, ivy-covered New England
colleges, such as Harvard and Yale. With their topsiders,
popped-up collars, and Nantucket Red shorts faded to pale
pink, they summered on Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket,
and the coast of Maine, enjoying upscale sports such as
horseback riding, tennis, squash, and sailing. The classic
preppy was pictured as the conservative sportsman, who
favored subtlety over ostentation, and would rather winter
in Palm Beach than on St. Bart’s.
Many Americans saw the preppy lifestyle as far more
exciting, cultured, sporty, and stylish than their own. They
wanted to be part of it. Ralph Lauren recognized this and
happily obliged.
“Ralph Lauren’s gracious
style and iconic sensibility
extends far beyond classic
sportswear.”
Polo Ralph Lauren,
the original
symbol of the preppy lifestyle, combines Ivy League classics
and all-American sporting looks with a tailored English
sensibility. Casual, stylish, timeless clothing that appeals to
men from generation to generation.
Ralph Lauren’s gracious style and iconic sensibility
extends far beyond classic sportswear. Savvy, stylish, modern
gentlemen know that Ralph Lauren’s made-to-measure
collections, dedicated to the highest level of quality and
elegance, are the ultimate expression of American sartorial
splendor.
Suiting from Purple Label, Black Label, and Polo Ralph
Lauren is created with time-honored techniques using
luxurious natural fibers such as worsted wool, linen, and
cashmere. A structured shoulder, for a more comfortable fit,
and higher armholes, allowing for easy movement, combine
with a flattering modern fit that never goes out of style.
Ralph Lauren Black Label features sophisticated, classic
suiting with razor-sharp tailoring while combining
dramatically lean silhouettes with a clean, modern attitude.
Luxurious, stylish, and timeless, this collection, which is also
available in made-to-measure, is sleek, bold, and masculine.
The Ralph Lauren Purple Label Sartorial Collection,
new for Fall 2010, represents a return to the fine, meticulous
craftsmanship of Savile Row. This group of dedicated
artisans use an exclusive selection of the world’s finest fabrics
and spend over 30 hours to individually cut and sew each
garment by hand.
“Each custom-made suit
is precisely measured
for a personal fit and
hand-sewn by expert
tailors in Italy.”
77
section
c l a ss i c amer ica n a
The Purple Label
Made-to-Measure
Collection offers impeccably handcrafted suits, trousers,
sport coats, and topcoats in 250 luxurious, hand-selected
fabrics, including cashmere blends and vicuña, the world’s
most expensive fabric. Each custom-made suit is precisely
measured for personal fit and hand-sewn by expert tailors in
Italy. The garment takes up to eight weeks to complete, and
prices range from $5,600 to $34,000.
Made to Measure Formalwear from Purple Label and
Polo Ralph Lauren offer tailored silhouettes which include
traditional, peaked, notched, and shawl lapels finished with
grosgrain or satin. Ralph Lauren also offers collections of
made-to-measure dress shirts and footwear, plus made-toorder silver and gold accessories and luggage.
In 1986, Ralph Lauren opened the historic Rhinelander
Mansion on Madison Avenue as his flagship store.
Originally designed in the 1890s by Kimball & Thompson,
this tur n-of-the-centur y Manhattan architectural
treasure has been remodeled and re-envisioned to
exclusively showcase his menswear collections.
The first floor includes Purple Label and Polo haberdashery
and a dramatic display of Ralph Lauren timepieces. The
Beaux Arts inter ior of the second floor houses the
complete world of Purple Label. The third floor is dedicated
to Polo’s signature preppy heritage, while the sleek,
modern sophistication of the Black Label Collection,
with its mid-century furniture and styling, occupies
the fourth.
Ralph Lauren, www.ralphlauren.com, 888.475.7674
“The third floor
is dedicated to
Polo’s signature
preppy heritage.”
www.compac.us
·
[email protected]
Showroom: 2450-W Sample Road, Suite 15, Pompano Beach, FL 33073 Phone: 954-969-7272
Warehouse and Corporate Office: 1666 NW 82 Avenue, Doral, FL 33126 (New Location) Phone: 305-406-3600
i n s i d er
Sure Footing
It is an age-old standard to build from the ground up. Michael
Toschi believes that for a man, the standard is no different.
Michael Toschi is proud
of the Italian tradition he follows, but he has
abandoned the antiquarian techniques that would
make men’s footwear little better than women’s
heels. He designs shoes tailored to the modern
man. Toschi integrates the most technologically
advanced craftsmanship with classic construction,
and although the designer offers a variety of fine
leather goods, he is most passionate about the
shoes he creates.
Introduced to the shoe industry at fifteen, he
learned the technicalities behind fashion early on
and expanded upon them. Promising the utmost
quality, he currently sells the “cacciatore” jacket,
“made of the most elite Spanish lamb money can
buy.” The Italian-made garment, blends a bucolic
finish with a clean cut, and the shearling is the
finest of its kind. Yet Toschi’s enterprise is first
and foremost a shoe company. “I like footwear,”
he says, “Shoes are the most important element
a man puts on his body.” Toschi sees footwear as
the foundation for a strong wardrobe, and he finds
that “everything you wear is going to be dictated
by your shoes.” More simply put, “a pair of Keds
won’t give justice to a black suit,” so he creates
shoes that will.
“Shoes are the most
important element a man
puts on his body.”
With his Vecchia Mano
collection, Michael Toschi offers select clients
shoes entirely fit to their comfort. His services are
substantially different from traditional made-tomeasure footwear. An invitation-only experience,
the process starts with the last, which is modified
to the client’s exact measurements. Toschi then
carefully guides the shoes’ design, accommodating
individual desires while maintaining his signature
style. The customer selects from a range of artisan
leathers, be it French calf or the designer’s preferred
Italian leather. As a final touch, the raw leather is
hand-dyed by a skilled cobbler. Meticulously, he
applies the stain. With each pass of the rag, color
seeps deeper into the leather until the skin reaches
an ideal, rich shade, with the natural shadowing
and subtle variation of bespoke craftsmanship.
“Vecchia Mano” translates to “old hand,” an
appropriate name for a collection of sophistication
and skill, but the technique involved is not entirely
antiquated. Improving on traditional methods
that could leave the shoe lacking in both fit and
functionality, Michael Toschi gives bespoke a
modern sensibility. He is concerned with “how
the materials work together” and incorporates a
thorough understanding of the media he uses in
his work. Certainly a connoisseur’s choice, shoes
from the Vecchia Mano collection offer extensive
options for the indulgent client, from exotic skins
to precious metal accents. Even jewels have been
incorporated into his footwear.
“Toschi sees footwear as
the foundation for a strong
wardrobe.”
83
i n s i d er
“Everything you wear is going
to be dictated by your shoes.”
Toschi’s
ready-to-wear
line is no less regarded. In fact, the designer is
often surprised by the cult-like following his
shoes attract, the result of the CarbonLite Ionet
Suspension (CIS) he uses. This kind of suspension
involves a carbon fiber standing platform that is
engineered into his standard collection. Using
the same knowledge of material application that
makes his bespoke selection so desirable, the
designer insists on the importance of comfort.
His technologically advanced standing platform is
pre-shaped to the foot through four independent
sections. As a result, the structure insures the best
possible fit of any shelf-bought shoe. Outside of
his Vecchia Mano collection, these advanced shoes
offer unparalleled support for the demanding,
elite lifestyle and can easily become the keystone
of any wardrobe.
Avoiding trendy, radical fashions, Toschi has
a simple but admirable ambition: to create “the
most handsome shoes on a man, both masculine
and elegant.” While he considers the world at
large “an inspiration to be re-rendered,” he
often draws ideas from the auto industry, and
he holds himself to the same standards of lavish
innovation. Implementing this level of quality,
Toschi, who is already planning for next season,
intends to sell “a very racy re-invention” of the
soft moccasin for his line of driving footwear.
The black shoe compels attention with its subtle
yellow details. He believes in the active man, and
shoes like these offer the distinguished daredevil
the ultimate combination of flexibility and beauty.
Performance-oriented, Toschi’s shoes offer playful
utility, and with collections ideally designed
for golf and driving, he gives a sporty edge to
traditional Italian crafting.
“ Toschi has a simple
but admirable ambition:
to create ‘the most
handsome shoes on a man,
both masculine and elegant’.”
“The Italian-made garment,
blends a bucolic finish with
a clean cut, and the shearling is
the finest of its kind.”
Always expanding
the range
of his bespoke line, Michael Toschi recently
worked with Martin Estate to create a signature
wine for the Vecchia Mano collection. Like
Toschi’s own work, Martin Estate’s wines benefit
from the best aspects of “mak[ing] things in the
old fashioned way.” The estate follows wellrefined European traditions at the establishment’s
home in Napa Valley. The winery produces some
of the finest late harvest wine in the country
and produced a single, personalized barrel for
the designer’s exclusive events. These events for
Vecchia Mano’s elite customers, to which as few
as twelve people may be invited, are decadent
excursions: a sixteen course dinner prepared by
the most skilled chefs followed by this superb
rare vintage.The last event cost each guest $6,500
and was certainly a worthwhile extension of the
Vecchia Mano experience.
Despite the growth of his company, Michael
Toschi’s central ambition remains the same:
to design shoes that are certain to garner
admiration. Their classic appearances and careful
particulars sublimely compliment their superior
construction. Upholding Michael Toschi’s
dedication to beauty and function, his creations
easily become what he considers “the critical
element of a man’s fashion.”
Michael Toschi’s bespoke shoes range from $16,000
to $20,000. Toschi’s “cacciatore” jacket is available
for $3,750.
Michael Toschi, www.toschi.com, 650.508.4420
85
NEW YORK
Luxury cloaked in nature,
with a touch of serenity.
BOSTON
•
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WASHINGTON DC
MIAMI
•
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ATLANTA
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CHICAGO
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As seen on:
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ABCNews 20/20, CNBC, E!
The Big Idea w/ Donny Deutsch,
The NEWSHOUR w/ Jim Lehrer,
CNN, BBC, and FOX News.
877.787.5253
Forever Resorts is an Authorized Concessioner of the National Park Service and state and public agencies and operates under special permits with the USDA Forest Service and the Department of Interior to serve the public in the
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BEVERLY HILLS
•
SAN FRANCISCO
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LAS VEGAS
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SCOTTSDALE
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DALLAS
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LONDON
“There are dinner jackets
d esi g n
A Worldly Affair
Introducing sartorial perfection to the world,
Brioni dresses the global traveler.
Brown wool overcoat, $5,195
Brown three-piece windowpane suit, $8,395
Bordeaux cotton vintage striped shirt, $595
Bordeaux silk printed tie, $195
and then there are dinner jackets…” Brioni certainly
describes the latter, and while these suits may not
come with James Bond’s body, they’re sure to suggest
his debonair charm. From 1995-99, the company
designed the jet-setting spy’s bespoke wardrobe and
introduced the public to the beauty of sartorial refinement, but their bespoke craftsmanship and attention
to detail have been present since their beginning.
Indisputably one of the top fashion houses for
men’s bespoke garments, Brioni has always catered
to the individual. The brand’s master tailors, trained
by its own Scuola Sartori Nazareno Fonticoli, understand the lines of a man’s body. The school, created
in 1985, continues the legacy of Brioni’s co-founder
Nazareno Fonticoli, expanding on his vision from the
tailor’s own hometown of Penne, Italy. Abandoning
the superfluous accents of 1950s and 1960s fashion,
Fonticoli streamlined glamour. Following the same
approach to menswear, the program, his namesake,
ensures a continuity of Brioni’s signature style. After
years of research and practice, each tailor learns to
recognize the effect of a client’s posture, and whether
it’s a certain swagger or lean of the shoulder, every
suit is sure to accommodate its owner. Carefully
measured, a Brioni jacket fits as a second skin.
Meticulous, the Brioni tailor makes certain that
every stage of construction undergoes strict regulation with the help of the company at-large. While
the fashion house offers the intimacy of a personal
tailor, it assures the experience of a much larger
organization. As Todd Barrato, COO of Brioni
USA, explains, the brand values “style over fashion,
quality before compromise. We invest a lot of time
into exclusive fabric research and development. As
we work internally with our own Brioni factories,
we can control every aspect of design and quality
to ensure that each Brioni product has a consistent
look, feel, and expression.”
Concerned with the utility of their designs, the
employees of Brioni thoughtfully compose each piece,
so that “there are many elements in the collection
that are season-less; such as waterproof silk outerwear,
feather weight cashmere knits, unconstructed blazers,
and elegant suiting in the finest super 180’s and 200’s
wool.” In line with such expectations, fabrics are
tested for elasticity before being used in any garment,
and such statistics are then applied to insure the fit of
less supple material, such as silk, mohair, and linen.
In its creation, a single garment will go through 220
distinct steps to meet the fashion house’s “standard
of perfection,” one which Barrato assures has “always
been a source of pride for those who create and those
who wear Brioni.”
“Style over fashion,
quality before
compromise.”
Camel double-faced cashmere overcoat with removable mink collar, $11,595
Brown hand-woven leather gloves, $595
Navy wool suit, $4,995
Cotton striped dress shirt, $595
Burgundy woven silk gradient patterned tie, $215
89
d esi g n
Custom Architectural Stone & Fountain Specialists
“Each tailor learns to
recognize the effect
of a client’s posture.”
It should come as no surprise
that Ian Fleming’s Hollywood hero would come to Brioni
for his personal fitting. Perpetually 40, James Bond has been
the long-time symbol of elite style. As with all their
customers, the tailors at Brioni designed for Bond a classic
wardrobe, both discreet and elegant. Perhaps best described
by Barrato, each Brioni tailor works with the understanding
that “good taste, exquisite quality, and elegance never go out
of fashion.” This creed is then espoused with the irreplaceable rapport between tailor and client. As a result, after 22
hours of work with 5,000 to 7,000 hand-done stitches, each
suit promises to be one of a kind, from fabric and patterns
especially woven for Brioni, to the particulars of the design.
An exclusive service, Brioni’s bespoke tailoring sets the
standard for men’s eveningwear and redefines the nature of
simple sportswear. Fully aware that “the Brioni customer
is a global traveler,” Barrato assures that the company’s
worldwide expansion intends to serve “him/her in every
corner of the world.”And with “distribution in several points
throughout Asia and Europe, including openings in
Shanghai, Tokyo, and St. Petersburg,” the fashion house is
well on its way to achieving such an ambitious goal.
Aware of the precedent set by its past collections and
assertiveness of its style, Brioni “translate’s [its own] history
into a modern collection.” The brand’s confidence is
well-founded; few combine wool and silk with such
sophistication. Theirs is a tradition of strong lines and
tactful design, work that provides a cinematic grace to
the worldly man.
World-Class Showroom & Design Center
Brioni, www.brioni.com, 888.778.8775
V
Navy merino wool cardigan lined in shearling, $1,895
Washed denim sportshirt, $395
Cream natural brushed cotton trousers, $445
Grey cashmere check scarf, $195
isit Carved Stone Creations exquisite showroom to realize what you never knew was available for your home. We
offer customer-centric designs that grace some of the finest estate homes & landscapes nationwide. The Monacoinspired curved granite staircase & 15th century Reniassance-styled grand entrance (above) have been meticulously
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Carved Stone Creations, Inc. Stone Studio & Design Center: 2101 Progress Way, Kaukauna, WI 54130
indulge
The Royal Treatment
For those who need to do more than blow smoke, Gurkha’s His Majesty’s
Reserve caters to the connoisseur of fine tobacco.
by: Josh Smelko
Gurkha’s His Majesty’s Reserve (HMR)
holds the title of “world’s most expensive cigar ever made.” If you’re looking for
the absolute best, this is it.
For years, Gurkha has been known as the “Rolls Royce” of the cigar industry.
Their reputation stems from exotic blends of rare tobaccos, hand-crafted by the
world’s foremost rollers. His Majesty’s Reserve is no exception. Made from
the most expensive cognac and premium tobaccos available, HMR features a
rare aged Dominican wrapper that covers a secret blend of tobaccos from all
over the world. Once the cigars are rolled, they undergo a unique infusion
process that involves an entire bottle of Louis XIII Cognac. This infusion
process is unusual, as it does not subtract from the tobacco flavor of the
aged leaves, but complements them in grand fashion.
Only 25 boxes of His Majesty’s Reserve are released every year,
and the allocation of these rare gems is decided by Gurkha President
Kaizad Hansotia. There is no finer cigar, packaging, or tobacco in
the world, and there are few blends, if any, that could lay claim
to a higher degree of quality.
Available in a massive 7.5” x 52’’ frame, these fine beauties are
priced at only $16,000, or a single HMR for $800.
Gurkha Cigars, gurkhacigars.com,
305.593.2254
“HMR features
a rare aged
Dominican
wrapper that
covers a secret blend of
tobaccos from all over the world.”
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8/16/10 2:45:31 PM
section
la st w o r d
When On The Hunt,
C a rr y A T hi c k S k i n
Valex tr a - Blue
A l l i g ato r Brief ca se
retail price: $23,380
www.valextra.it
Valextra’s glossy blue alligator briefcase keeps the best in hand using classic
craftsmanship by the finest Italian artists. Selective in their construction,
these leatherworkers chose only premium small-scale
skins to undergo the careful treatment process. So
go ahead. Bring color to the boardroom.

Fall 2010 - Gloffke Design

Transcription

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