Canvas™ _ Ornament Quartet Final Color

Transcription

Ornament Quartet
Stitching Level: Basic Intermediate
Length of Class: 2 hours per ornament
Technique: Bargello, Pattern Couching,
Diaper Patterns, String Art,
Nun’s Stitch Edging
Materials List:
Canvas:
18 count mono, color of student’s choice
For composite of 4 ornaments on one piece, 12" x 12"
For one individual ornament, 6" x 6"
(each ornament is 3 3/8" x 3 3/8")
Stretcher bars and tacks
Threads:
#8 pearl cotton, contrasting with canvas color
Floss, same color as #8 pearl cotton
Floss, same color as canvas
#12 metallic braid, contrasting with canvas color
(not used in String Art Ornament)
#8 metallic braid, contrasting with canvas color
(used in String Art Ornament only)
1/16" metallic ribbon, contrasting with canvas color
(optional in Bargello Ornament only instead of #12 braid)
Sewing thread, same color as canvas
© Copyright American Needlepoint Guild 2011
2:1
Ornament Quartet
Ornament Quartet is a set of coordinated ornaments, each of which emphasizes a single technique: Bargello,
pattern couching, diaper patterns, and string art (aka Jean Hilton stitches). All ornaments are the same size
and are finished in the same way. You also have the option of working all 4 designs on a single canvas for
framing, making into a pillow, etc.
The instructions for each ornament assume that you are working a single ornament on a 6" x 6"
piece of canvas.
If you are working multiple ornaments together for a larger project, please read the specific instructions on
page 2:18 before you begin. An overall layout for the composite arrangement is provided on page 2:19.
The Bargello ornament uses a relatively simple 8-way Bargello
pattern for the center, and a narrow band of Bargello for the
border.
The Pattern Couching ornament contains a central area of pattern
couching, Byzantine corners, and a woven band for the borders.
The Diaper Patterns ornament contains two diaper patterns — one
in the central area and a second for the surrounding corners.
The String Art (aka Hilton stitches) ornament contains teardrop
Jessica, Amadeus, Walneto, and some mini-Crescent stitches, with
a brick couching pattern as filler.
2:2
Ornament Quartet — Bargello Ornament
Find and mark the center of the canvas by opening the center hole slightly, and mount the canvas on
stretcher bars.
The Master Chart for this ornament is on page 2:5.
Bargello Medallion
Note that the upright stitches are over 4
threads, and the diagonal stitches are
over 3 intersections. When beginning and
ending a Bargello thread, and if needed
between runs, take a tacking stitch over a
middle thread (or intersection) of the first and
last stitch, in order to get the pull correct for
the stitch.
7
5
9
17
15
83
18
19
13
10
6
16
14
20
11 14
2 12
Step 1:
Thread up with a 36-inch length of 4 strands
of the floss that matches your canvas. Follow
the numbering on the diagram on the right to
avoid carrying the thread behind exposed
canvas. Number 2 (and 12) is the center hole
of your canvas. Take a tacking stitch under 12, 9-10, 11-12, and 19-20. Do not carry the
thread from 10 to 11; weave it under 1-2 and
then take a tacking stitching under 11-12
before finally coming up at 11.
Step 2:
Thread up with a 24-inch length of 4 strands of the
contrasting floss. Following the diagram on the right,
work two rows of Bargello around the upright areas
and one row around the diagonal areas. Each stitch
can be worked from bottom to top (center to
outside). The numbers on the diagram to the right
indicate the sequence of “runs” of multiple stitches,
and not individual stitches. Take tacking stitches
under the last stitch of run 3 and the first stitch of
run 4, as well as under the first and last stitch of each
thread.
If you wish, use 1 more strand of thread on the
upright stitches, or 1 less strand on the diagonal
stitches for more even coverage.
5
4
3
2
8
9
6
1
7
10
Turn the diagram 90 degrees to work each quadrant.
2:3
Step 3
Thread up with a 24-inch length of #12 metallic
braid (or optional 1/16" metallic ribbon). Work the
final row of Bargello around the medallion, following
the stitch placement on the diagram on the right.
Note: the first and last upright stitches cover 5
threads rather than the normal 4 threads, marked
by the circles.
Border Bargello
Beginning with the #12 metallic braid (or optional 1/16" metallic ribbon) at the center of one
side, work the outside Bargello border based on the master diagram on page 2:5. Leave 2
empty canvas threads between the point of the Bargello medallion and the end of the first
stitch. Your thread can be carried from one stripe to the next in the same corner, but weave it
under the intervening stitches. Do not carry your thread across the middle of a side. Note that
the only compensation stitches in the border are the metallic stitches that meet in the corner.
1
Corner Motifs
5
9
Thread up with a 24-inch length of 1 or 2 strands of the contrasting
floss. Work the corner motifs following the diagram on the right. All
even numbers share the same hole. Begin with an away waste knot,
and tie off both the beginning and ending threads in the Bargello
border.
13
11
7
3
Finishing
Instructions for completing the Nun’s Stitch and finishing the ornament are on pages 2:17-2:18.
2:4
Bargello Ornament Master Chart
Bargello, floss matching canvas, 4 strands
Bargello, floss contrasting with canvas, 4 strands
Bargello, #12 metallic braid (or 1/16" metallic ribbon)
Corner Motif, floss contrasting with canvas, 1 or 2 strands
Nun’s Stitch, sewing thread, see Finishing Instructions on pages 2:17-2:18
2:5
Ornament Quartet — Pattern Couching Ornament
stretcher bars.
Pattern Couching
center hole
Thread up with a 30-inch length of the #12 braid, and
also a 24-inch length of 3 strands of the floss that
matches your canvas color. You will work with 2 needles
to complete the pattern couching diamond in the center
of the piece.
Bring the metallic thread up 1 thread below the center
hole of the canvas, using an away waste knot outside of
the ornament area. Take 3 slanted stitches, over 1, 2,
and then 3 intersections: stitches 1-2, 3-4, and 5-6 in
the diagram on the right, and then bring your thread
back up to the front at number 7.
2
4 6
8
1
3
5
7
Bring your floss up to work stitch A in the diagram from
lower right to upper left (SE to NW), and couch the
longest of your metallic stitches in the center. Then
bring your floss up to work stitch B in the same
direction.
Lay the subsequent metallic stitches, couching each one as you go. Be sure to always bring
each thread to the front of the canvas ready for its next stitch before switching needles.
Turn your canvas (or the directions) 90 degrees to work the other quadrants.
Inner Corners
Work the inner corners in the modified Byzantine stitch from
the master chart on page 2:9. All of the stitches are worked
with 3 strands of the contrasting floss except the outer row.
The outer row is worked with the #12 metallic braid.
Begin near the center couching. The first 2 rows are included
in the diagram to the right, showing the placement against the
center area. Especially when working the over-1 stitches,
reverse your stitch direction at the corners to avoid the halfcross stitches where the thread on the back is only over 1
vertical or horizontal thread.
2
1
4
3
6
21
5
8
7
10
11
13
15
17
9
12
14
16
18
22
19
20
If your contrasting floss is dark, you may want to work
only the over-2 rows, skipping the over-1 rows entirely
and letting your canvas show through. Dark colors can
often hide the stitch pattern so you would end up with
just a solid mass of dark color. See the photo of the
composite arrangement, where this was done.
2:6
Borders
Thread up with 2 strands of contrasting floss in one needle, and 2 strands of the floss that
matches your canvas in another needle. The border will be worked clockwise beginning from the
upper right corner. You will generally work 5 stitches with one floss and then switch and work 5
stitches with the other. The contrasting floss goes from lower left to upper right (SW to NE), and
the matching floss goes from lower right to upper left (SE to NW). Each floss completes
a line of diagonal gobelin over 4 intersections, but the
2 4
alternating method of working creates the woven effect.
5
Beginning with your contrasting floss, work stitches 1-2
and 3-4, and then bring your needle to the front at the
circled hole, which will be number 13 when you are ready
to use the thread again. The diagram on the right shows
the placement of these stitches in relation to the Byzantine
corner. Hole 1 is located 4 threads above and 5 threads to
the right of the inner corner of the Byzantine row.
4
1
3
13
12 10 8 6
5
7
9
Using your matching floss, work stitches 5-6
through 11-12, and then bring your thread to the
front at the circled hole, which will be number 23
when you are ready to use this thread again.
11
23
14 16
18
20
Go back to your contrasting floss, and work stitches 1314 through 21-22, and bring your thread to the front one
thread below hole 21.
13
15
22
17
19
21
Alternating floss, work 5 stitches and bring your thread up ready to work the next one, then 5
stitches with the other floss, etc. At the bottom of the band you will again face compensation,
but it should be obvious and is shown on the master chart. This border pattern ends 1 thread
below the last Byzantine row.
Turn your canvas 90 degrees to work the next side of the border, so you are always working
from the upper right corner of the ornament.
2:7
Corners
Thread up with an 18-inch length of pearl cotton. The corners
are a modified sheaf stitch, worked according to the diagram
on the right. Note that the tie-down stitch comes up and goes
down into the same hole. Since this hole is shared with two
stitches of the borders and is covered by all the other stitches
in the sheaf, you will have to gently move the sheaf stitches
aside in order to find the hole. Use an away waste knot, and
tie it off in the borders.
2
4
8 12
5
9
13
16
15
14
10
6
11 7
3 1
Finishing
2:8
Pattern Couching Ornament Master Chart
Center Diamond:
Inner Corners:
#12 Braid
#12 Braid
Floss matching canvas,
3 strands
Floss contrasting with canvas,
3 strands
Woven Bands:
Outer Corners:
2 strands
2 strands
#8 Pearl Cotton
2:9
Ornament Quartet — Diaper Pattern Ornament
stretcher bars.
Center Pattern
The composite stitch pattern in the center of the ornament consists of partial reversing Scotch
stitches, upright crosses, and extended double upright crosses forming a grid.
Step 1, Partial Reversing Scotch Stitches:
Thread up with 3 strands of your contrasting floss. Beginning near the center of the ornament,
follow the diagram below to work the row that surrounds the center. The black dot represents
the center hole of your canvas. The stitches go over 2, 3, and 2 intersections of canvas. Work
the bottom half of the diamond/circle shapes across the row, then come back and do the top
half. Then work the rows above and below in the same manner.
33 35
31
37
36
2
4
6
10
8
14
18
12
1
3
16
32
34
30
7 13
5
11
9 15 17
Step 2, Upright Cross Stitches:
Thread up with a length of the #12 metallic braid (48 inches is enough to do the entire center).
Put a small upright cross in the center of each pattern made by the reversing Scotch stitches,
and put in the large vertical cross base of the extended double upright cross stitches (each
stitch over 6 threads) at the same time. Start at the top, and put the single upright cross in,
then the two large crosses for the double uprights, then the row of 3 upright crosses, etc.
Follow the master chart on page 2:12 for the placement of the large crosses.
Step 3, Complete Extended Double Upright Cross Stitches:
Thread up with 3 strands of your floss that matches your canvas, and work the top cross of the
extended double upright cross stitches. Each of these stitches goes over 2 intersections of
canvas.
2:10
Corner Pattern
The composite stitch pattern in the corners is made up of a laid grid tied down with upright
cross stitches, and double upright cross stitches inside the grid.
Step 1, Laid Grid:
22
Thread up with a 36-inch length of the #12
metallic braid, which should allow you to
complete one corner. Follow the numbers on
the diagram to the right, working the thread
as in a satin stitch. A stitch goes into the
center hole of each side, and into the corner
stitch; the crossing stitches begin 2 canvas
threads away from the ends of the opposing
stitches. This is the lower right corner of
your canvas, and the nearby partial Scotch
stitches are shown for placement. Turn your
canvas (or the chart) to work the other
corners.
The threads on the back of the canvas actually
show less when working the laid pattern by
wrapping the threads, as the numbers indicate,
than if worked in a back-and-forth method and
conserving thread.
2
21
20
18
4
19
16
14
6
17
12
10
1
8
9
3
11
5
13
7
15
Step 2, Couching:
Tie down each intersection of the grid with a single upright cross stitch, using 3 strands of the
floss that matches your canvas color. A 24-inch length will complete one corner. All top stitches
should be in the same direction. Work these along the diagonal grid lines.
Step 3, Double Upright Crosses:
Thread up with 2 strands of your contrasting floss (use 3 strands if you prefer a heavier look). A
30-inch length will complete one corner. The top stitch of each cross should point to the center
of your ornament. Note that the crosses along the outside edges are compensated — one of the
straight stitches is only over 3 threads rather than 4.
Finishing
2:11
Diaper Pattern Ornament Master Chart
Center:
Corners:
3 strands
#12 Braid
3 strands
#12 Braid
3 strands
2 strands
2:12
Ornament Quartet — String Art Ornament
stretcher bars.
Teardrop Jessica Stitches
Thread up with an 18-inch length of the #8 metallic
braid. Each of these 4 Jessicas will be worked from the
point nearest the center around and back to that point.
The last stitch shares a hole with the first stitch, creating the point near the center and the rounded edge at
the opposite side.
31 29 27 25 14
22 20 18 16
23
33
12
24
21
35
10
19
26
8
17
28
6
30
15
4
13
32
2
34
11
36
1 3
5
7
9
On the diagram to the right, the dark square is the
center hole of the canvas. Each stitch should come up
outside the previous ones. When you go down with 36
in the same hole where 1 began, you are done.
Center of Canvas
Amadeus Stitches
Thread up with a 24-inch length of a single strand of contrasting floss; this will be
enough to work one half of one of the
four Amadeus stitches. The odd numbered holes are shared between the two
halves of one Amadeus stitch. Control
your thread by holding a loop on the top
until you have correctly placed the needle
in the next “up” hole. Be sure to go over
all previous stitches with each stitch. If
you are working down the right diagonal
of 2-4-6..., then your needle should
always come up to the left of 1-3-5...
When working the second half of the
Amadeus, be sure that you do not catch
any of the threads from the first half.
Hole number 1 is the center hole of the
canvas.
2
4
4
6
6
8
8
10
10
12
12
14
14
16
16
18
18
20
22
20
21
22
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
Note that the last stitch, 21-22, goes
straight across a canvas grain.
2:13
Walneto Base Stitches
Thread up with a 30-inch length of 2
strands of the floss that matches your
canvas. The purpose of these base stitches
is simply to keep the carrying threads of the
Walneto stitches from showing through to
the front of the canvas.
For placement, the long diagonal stitches
share holes with the Amadeus stitches,
centered on each side. Note the stars on
the master chart on page 2:16, which show
where these holes are shared.
The arrows on the diagram at the right
identify the first stitch of each group, and
the direction of the stitches in that group. I
found that this worked best to not leave any
threads showing on the back, working each
stitch in a “clockwise” direction as I worked
around the area “counter clockwise.”
Walneto Stitches
Thread up with about 5 feet (60 inches) of
#8 pearl cotton for the Walneto stitch itself.
Follow the numbers on the diagram to the
right, noting that all the stitches except 3340 share holes with the base stitches you
already have in place.
4
5
12
13
20
21
28
29
To execute the Walneto stitch, bring your
thread up through the odd numbered hole,
carry it under the first set of stitches and
then over the others, going down at the
even numbered hole.
7 15 23 31 39
34 26 18 10 2
Stitch 1-2 is laid normally; stitch 3-4 goes
under 1-2; stitch 5-6 goes under 3-4; and
stitch 7-8 goes under 5-6 but over 1-2.
6 14 22 30 38
35 27 19 11 3
Stitch 9-10 goes under 1-2 and 7-8, and
over 3-4; stitch 11-12 goes under 1-2 and
9-10, and over 5-6; stitch 13-14 goes
under 5-6 and 11-12, and over 7-8; stitch
15-16 goes under 7-8 and 13-14, and over
1-2 and 7-8.
71
68
60 52 44 36
37 45 53 61 6669
63
58
55
50
47
42
46
43
54
51
62
65
70 57
59
49 41 33
40 48 56 64 6772
25
32
17
24
9
16
1
8
Continue with the under/over pattern as
you complete the entire Walneto stitch.
2:14
Brick Couching
Thread up with a 24-inch length of #8 pearl cotton, and a 24-inch length of #8 braid. You will
work with two needles on the brick couching pattern around the points of the center diamond
shape.
Lay one long stitch, 1-2, with the #8 pearl cotton, as shown on the diagram below; then
wrap the thread on the back of the canvas to come up at 3, and park it on top of the
canvas. The number 1 hole is 3 threads to the right and 1 thread above the point of the
Walneto (see the master chart on page 2:16 for placement).
Using the #8 braid, couch down the pearl cotton stitch, following the lettered stitches, A-B, etc.,
ending by bringing your thread up at AA and parking it on top of the canvas.
Continue laying one long thread of pearl cotton and couching it with the braid. You will be laying
the long threads from left to right, but working the couching stitches from left to right and then
right to left, alternating as you work up the area. When you get to the divide at the point of the
diamond shape, work both stitches on one side with both threads, then run your thread under
the stitches on the back to get to the other side, and complete the area.
3
1
AA
A
C
U
B
D
V
Corner Mini Crescents
Thread up with 1 or 2 strands of contrasting floss to fill
in the corners. This is a very small Crescent stitch,
worked as shown in the diagram at the right.
Each stitch goes over all previous stitches.
2
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
13 11 9 7 5 3 1
Finishing
2:15
String Art Ornament Master Chart
Teardrop Jessica, point at center, #8 braid
Amadeus, Floss contrasting with canvas,
1 strand
Walneto base,
2 strands
Walneto, #8 pearl cotton
Couching, #8 pearl cotton
Couching, #8 braid
Crescent, Floss contrasting with canvas,
1 or 2 strands
2:16
Ornament Quartet — Nun’s Stitch Finishing
To finish the individual ornaments, work the Nun’s Stitch around each ornament, using
polyester sewing thread. Cotton sewing thread will also work, but the polyester is slightly
stronger. This provides a secure edge for the stitching and a channel to cut the canvas. The
canvas then does not need to be turned back in order to finish it.
The Nun’s Stitch is worked around the ornament, using a pulled thread technique. Each
stitch is actually worked twice, as indicated by the numbers in the diagrams below. For the pull
to be correct, the stitch sequence changes as you change direction. I have diagrammed all four
directions. The corners follow the stitch sequence naturally and should present no problems.
Cutting Channel
57
9
11
2
4
Stitching direction
2 4
7
5
68
10 1
12 3
8 1 3
6
10 12
9 11
11 9
12 10
6
3 1 8
Stitching direction
4
2
Cutting Channel
3 12
1 10
86
5
7
4 2
11
9
75
Cut off a 2-yard length of thread, fold it in half, and thread the 2 loose ends into your needle
(use your normal tapestry needle). Begin a few stitches away from a corner, with a loop knot,
but be sure to place your first stitch so that the corners land in the correct place. So you can
see what you are doing, go down into the center of a 1-2 stitch, come up in the “far” end
(number 2), and bring the needle through the loop of thread. Then go back down in number 2,
and come up in number 1 to actually begin the first stitch.
To end a thread, complete one of the perpendicular stitches, and then bring the thread up so
that it lays on the back of the canvas in the path that the subsequent stitches will be taking, so
they will tie it down securely. Use another loop knot to begin the next thread. At the very end,
you may need to use a smaller needle (size 28 or even a sewing needle) in order to run the last
tail through the stitches on the back.
When the Nun’s Stitch is completed around the entire ornament, cut the canvas along the
channel formed by the outside of the Nun’s Stitch. If there are “points” of the canvas still
poking out, carefully trim them close to the stitches, but be sure not to cut into the thread of
the stitches. The ornament is now ready for its backing.
2:17
Ornament Quartet — Finishing
Backing the Ornament
Cut a piece of thin batting about 1/4 inch inside
the Nun’s stitch on all 4 sides. Cut a piece of
ultrasuede or felt, or finish the edges of another
type of fabric to fit just to the inside edge of
the Nun’s stitch.
Put the batting on the back of the ornament,
and then the outer fabric. Attach the outer
fabric by working a simple running stitch
following the baseline of the Nun’s stitch, and
every time you come up through the canvas,
catch the backing fabric. Use the same sewing
thread that was used for the Nun’s stitch.
For a thin hanger, cut two pieces of the #8
pearl cotton about 18 inches long. Thread them
both through the third Nun’s stitch hole on one
side of the corner. Make a twisted cord of the
pearl cotton, with the ornament hanging on it.
Use the ornament as the weight for the second
twist. Tie the ends together to hold them. Do
the same for the other half of the hanger, using
the third hole on the other side of the same
corner. Finally, tie both halves of the hanger
together for the length that you want.
Backing
Fabric
Combining Designs
If working a set of four ornaments (one of each pattern, or any combination thereof, or even
less than four) on a single piece of canvas for a pillow or for framing, the following
recommendations are provided.
Work the Nun’s Stitch (see page 2:17) around each individual pattern, to provide a
uniformity throughout the piece and to let the eye recognize that all four patterns are the
same size.
Work the Nun’s Stitch outlines for all four areas first — this makes it easier to find the
center of each pattern and also have the patterns line up evenly. If counting across the
area from the points of the Nun’s Stitches, there are 60 threads total. If counting across
from the inside of the Nun’s Stitch, there are 56 threads.
Leave 8 empty threads between the outside points of the Nun’s Stitch of adjacent
patterns. See the overall layout on page 2:19.
Leave 8 empty threads around the piece when finishing into a pillow or having it framed,
again to provide a visual uniformity.
The small photo on the cover sheet shows the arrangement that has been used. Feel free
to modify the arrangement to your taste.
2:18
Ornament Quartet — Overall Composite Layout
2:19

Canvas™ _ Ornament Quartet Final Color

Transcription

Similar documents

Spring

Spiral Scrubbie Pattern

Kippah with Center Star - Women`s League for Conservative Judaism

Needlepoint Now Newsletter June 2015

- Major Knitter

Needlepoint Now Newsletter October 2013

Ornament of the Month