P101110

•
COZY FIREPLACES,
SNOWY ADVENTURES, and
HOT TODDIES, too. Your guide
to romantic getaways
0.)
Take In
The Best Of
TAHOE
E ilf■
PAGE 142
Master The
peaks Of
MAMMOTH
Breathe
In The Fresh
'1 1 M)S Air
FLEE
PAGE 137
II1 1 1 1
Hide Out
In The
HOCK 1 Es
I 44.34
• DECEMBER 70E7
OLJJdiC.CONI
T
HE LURE
OF GIRLS'
VOLLEYBALL
P101110
DIRECTOR
ANG LEE'S
L.A. STORY
• AH 44
THE 747
THAT BECAME
A HOUSE
TAGIL 114.
it
uoTED sr ,
MATTHEW
SOIL
ceX.
LEIDK ALIVE: WHEIRER YOU 'LIKE TO SERPENTINE UN N SHOWY $LOPES. ROAM
TEMPERATE DESERT PLAINS, OR JUST TAKE A PIP IN A HOT Si'NING, NOW IS THE TIME.
WE'VE GOT A PASS .EL OF PLACES TO CELEBRATE THIS SHORT SLAM
STAY
AWHILE
.
•
THERE MAYBE MORE FUN PACKED INTO A SIDUARE MILE HERE THAN
ANYWHERE ELSE 114 THE WEST. THOSE LAKE VIEWS AREN'T SO BAD, EITHER
SK A LAK F. TA HOF reittilar what it's like to ski liere said you might not get a
straight answer. Unlike other snowy playgrounds,. Tahoe isn't a single mountain; more than a dozen downhill ['awns cluster near the lake, a giant glint•
ing expanse of shifting blots and greens so deep and past that it nemer freezes..
While the lake is exceptionally beautiful From any angle, it also has something
of a split oersonaiity, with California to lb' writ and Nevada to its east. Or risen
multiple personalitleS: !lopping From mountain to mountain, you can go
from alpine glitz to Marfa] eartlitni-,s to Vegas-tinged 3dtseh all in one stay.
While aprths-skt tAlriying is the little engine that deists many a ski town, Smith
Tahoe suly.crities to a more round-the-clock philosophy. Rambunctious and ciecaMortally tacky, it goes big on nightlife with its army of casinos aitontitleu.liarnyk),
busy barb (blactinfPx Pub, Ape& Wine Compat y). end all-limn dance clutts(Ble).11wn little are the ski n_Nort.g.
The 2.4-mile gondola ride from town up to the largest, Heavenly. k.% pretty &Luling. Lodgings vary wildly. but
among the newest and roust sophisticated is Baseciimp South Lake Thhoe ($09-5329), 3 hi ps-ter-fliendly 511-room
dlentair
Caustrorree ream
tweak the Nueileafrisadjr
tract JUK made
unwise dares,
sub to labor
shrerelas own
hutel outtlisrl with height orange lu:rosetw-style lamps, reclaimed-wood furniture, and a rooftop hot tub—an
epic Improvement Ince its former inearnaLlon as the sninitioarder dungeon known as the Biock. Nice 1..• grown-
r--IleatitAtam- I
TANK 1111111111111111111
WHICH TN CHOOSE*
al
ALPINE MMUS
or Speed !mak% wevphio
Late North Tahoe resort's
•ad:, but Srsraw aopeats to
at Fermis. es ores,a1hr gorse
141 per ',merger MOM
Alp41,014116[10M4 Mayen,
reeen. The tenors( terrain Is
at the tap el the eneurede)
op Long a 11.1.1 , 1:d:A relearn
Fix 1...c.—backcOlironf
•
I;
II
I
lopiorde$
Men
boundames—elpIne re
Candy InIsged vrnn Squaw,
naming a 6 000 plus-acre
tar area essessed wet, a
orgle 11,11151t51
SIENIA-11-111110E
People used to canna gal
Ise Che sn delly spec ad hem
and mellow terrain. gr,e
the shop-hhed vIlage noes
hosts a larsopeg aerie-se
scene and a Woe-Carlton
(52951•2.399a New ass
yaw enc....mat-skiing tours.
4
11
'141:PIP"
SHAW VALLEY
A
flashcountry cat-sluing
eit tiucklrb•errs'
Canyon halt up) Ehii
•
terrain-nal,
resort. a reulame with &e1 ',vows The meat shuttle
I hits hotels all Drat 64,,,th
Lahr Tahoe.
!Our,
up sill! is the Pefrellie 968
Park Hotel ($109-8419),
opened in. 2009, where the
pub recount organic beers
stung with high-tirvation
litOne and bordeaux va•
deals from nearby Madrofia Vineyards, Call
ahead if 34.141 Mull. to su,qg
One 01 thr 11 tables al
South Tahoe's most celebrated rectum-ant, Evan's
Amellean Gourmet Cafe.
For a morning date's of
fresh Milt 911111.04)thie9 and
veggie-packed breaki2-9c
*Ottlid15. head to Sprouts
Natural libels Cat&
Ir !h o w,. ;in II I Ipcorle
to Tahoe's South Share, ills
Trooket.Abtan 20 minutes
From the north side or the
Lake_ its stretch of Lgth-eem
GETTING
Low
brow so (avid
Si
the
muudalcu
isrreum•d
}nip.-
cameo of
5511h
dlutterre, yen
mu, hrhr alelhnlr
pleArael, knit, Pnas
11•MI.14 as h...r
▪
dint
at. ...,irr 01x4 nunots.
...lay, at...ending la
1..,5 nada...eel
bona, or to:ertxertluo
far a5 hours, Repeat
fettnten, Rhaillel Er
■pres.matnnn
Village at Scpsaw—a mountain famous fear its sleeps —
has its I Viii charms: fj
pits. a Spa, and Lite
Plumpjack Squaw Val•
ley Inn (.1.:its-Sinal.), with
56 rwms, a popular New
American car, and two
outduor hot tubs within
s nowball-throwing clis1:tore LIT the aerial tram,
Rack in Truckee. rest up
at the Cedar House Sport
Hotel IS1C1(1-070). a minimal I s t, styl e-conscious
ludo with esular helms
and leather Natforris beds.
The Isotefs adventtere concierge can. organige cpstom crues-t-ountry outings.
Because in a land where
etreTy1.311C else is :sipping
downhill, a Little hijkiY.Ort.
tai skiing may be the ultimate form of quiet rebellion. if Fl ()N.
113 I
• '''`•:!,hrzi .".•'
I
SAILINO THE HEIGHT
SOUTHERN CAL'S FAVORITE
MOUNTAIN WIll NUT HE DENIED
MOST other
!,.ki towns lead with
irte phatngenie brickDiRM....
and-cedar skeletons
Lil of their former mining days, 14aminoth Lakes : a city of
119.1 irc recent vintage, Is known first—
and only-fur its termite:. Charm is
UM; 1:11.10.11-style ban. and
a bit harder so comic by here.
Mitid rarlit_S Cfruckee's bestfind it not by jockeying for proximknown ACM for ambitious
ity to the slopes—though if Quick acAmerican food : Moody's,
cess Is a 111111.M., the Westin itelonache
ir ITtIW6 TMIRI Newry of Angdemog
just lade a reVimp) Is something you
Resort ($1.1)9•41,21;1!)) provides a lust
wires (hid In other California ski areas.
make the eigla•titoksr drivefrom L-A.,
alternative to the Mirky cookie-cutter
beef the prre.inmi-orha!fhour flight to
The menu as the Drunken Monkey, on
condos— hut by staying outside the
Rrno-Traror
frnrrn.rid1.10/ Airport is
the outskirts or TrI1Clee, covers swaths
fray two miles south of
easier. Frvrts Mere 's 45
of Asia, from sushi to S1n&tirxlm street
the Kill resort at Tamamin rites or so to Yarcixt.,
ns xxltcs. TahoeMuun.lyiLi Brewiag Oansrack Lodge ($794749).
yer ar,c north this of gm
pew recentlynpcncdabet-s.ryiuLuwu
Atm Oat a thousand feel
ilukc, Demi oil how'. arid
as well as a tosivepub 20 minutes away
shove the 7,80.0.tool•
20 771inedda f■ S002 Lake
in Tahoe Om on the northwest Side of
elevation town center,
31•12204? On the }salt-opened
the Lake. That's where you e.,111 ebnotst
the collection of cabins
from Beltgian-s-ryle pale and dark ales,
I - 58t rxiension. h'rE1112
and lodge ru•ems gives
Sane brimecl with Trappist yeasts and
Seirrainento nferYaaf ionoff an uncharacteristi•
uii Afrport.7}-atelliet is IWO
spiry pcppereorics while admiring the
call) LIUIet, woodsy feel,
hartrx away zero r-so and
Shoe—and the French oak barnis that
REST STOP h.leep Het Sorrgs
in part because the exItt-o-ood-4•2-qho Ater hours.
are filled with aging been You ours make
tra elevation brings bonus souw,
to South 1...akr Mime via ifiglneopi 519..
the degrees there an the way bath from
Rtaiglitty half l rf the cabins were fitly
NortbStar, where people nurse postCur rgatiii agencies don't 42/terZYS alirYt0
renovated in 20018, and they're the
snare rhffileS lees figruir Wrg; real af4-4.41,
slope drinks around the is rink in the
ones you want to book—particularly
prhed-drive oxhide Jfpou Carr.
recort's vitlage. Folly minutes is
the
111fillheT 11, a three-bedroom stu Emer
fiord with locally harvested knotty
piste and copious picture win dews.
Flatlanders cotton to Tamarack's
REATUILY.
I
III IIK*0 oe
croRi-country ski center (tile only one
MT, HOSE
i rhis savtn ,shoe resort
dip JT was already knew" far
Celti)rated
it$
around), but itk nil easy drive or r.Iltit%Inc sec rwaratcd 5nowfan
s egeass.ir&te Rena and
bra atredge
wd7e's•
tle
to the lift at Mammottis Eagle
;
and
Pat hae..kesualry ter.• 41411PM the SOLF0 TthS.S
Th* ,111 ).A
.
rain wk>ro &wan ...(111
playground reeerg
reSert saaese•el tee nntenr.?rs.
Lodge., a it-a-trafficked launch pad for
rt;freriogE. like S 004112Flif
erget years aGg. by conn
romped up the after-ski
your first descents of the day, lr you're
a enunnipedge ski
my she rnounttnrs'snce-dnparty se rtn 1111.1t end trot}
•schnra mash, and techs,
oarcers et Re
looking for sustenance beyond what
tet.iny Chotet—selth slopes
terralrreed, teatimes.
Lain Ternmack Lode.
I
Or 40 To 55 0141teas.
they're slinging in the tent lodge
here, roll listo town for Stellar Brew,
fl•
•
•
■
r•gld DIG NEAR TO
. HOW 20 Maltz
Til e Mbar OF rag
LOCAL T'RlalLITC
MOM TO MOYT Among Me Infest resons
a blue cons&
T11.4.5
mann.. AVM' fv*h niter stays open through futy
home
made granola. egg sandwiches
and turkey-black bean-yang
wraps that you can stow in your
J L 111.1.6t1All
)01in15(1 .5
ur a midday pint of Mammoth
Brewing Company's Double Nut
Brown ate is the outdoor deck at
OtetPost 14 a mini lodge cradled
at the bottom of a bowl on the
backside of the mountain.
When your quads have been
sufficiently thrashed by Mammoth's massive 1...560 acres of
terrain and an average 400
inches of snow, ride the gondola
from
Lodge into the
Village at Mammoth, an alpine
("iiii1ort
the road to Crowley is often
closed, in which case, stay put
.0, Stop across the take
at 1 he .13i0 Bear Dis-
get light-beaded at Crowley
BUILD A
SNOWMAN
pocket for I utreli. The must scenic slopeside setting for a meal
of town. During snowstorms,
• ',tired with mils and
ramps. Bear Mountain
courts an adrenalinesoaked clientaltg Snow
Summit, sea bees lass so
For lewer people. try
Chair 7, on Prefer side.
One Ilft ticket works at
both resorts.
Writer illarr laid. Its
Amebae: Lankier
C amend tret tars.
Parm aluminium]
toundatlea.la JNa
mellow pad ague
ty-anair maned odds
■ lotonarr-ensued
tbajeWW.Saawina
t irirnlybidillnd Le
e alfremn anomlia
dick primal *Ina
pelt News Smell
w asillsadd la Ins
Hot Sprints. a 105-degree geoI lermall.y heisted pool in the
...alley about 14 miles southeast
in Mammoth. RObertes Cafe,
OR OW Mammoth Road, is a
ski town. anomaly—an authentic Mexican restaurant that
forgoes mediocre sizzling ifaj
las for pork tamales and duck
quesarlillas. Or try Wbitebark,
in the Monache. for Its legit
sushi bar ',arm/kart. is an option) and gourmet comfort
Wilier Trails" dense
day hosted by REI. Or
gear up at North Shears
Trading Company_ The
canoes won't do you
much good In winter,
but the bentwood toboggans are the Platonic Heel of wintry fun.
-
food. Not to he skipped is the
deconstructed s'more — a cinnamon graham cracker and hunk
itrilre uF Nurts. Settle in for a
covery Confer to join
one oF ho three-hour
srowshoo MUM (SM.
In January Shore% a
margarita or a pitcherful) at
of oozing chocolate enveloped
Lakanuld Tad Bar in the Village,
in a jultlbu melting marshmal-
or squeeze in among the fa en ibes
low, All it takes to keep the
at Smokeyard RN and Chop
calories from settling in is one
Shop for corn fritters and pints.
epic run the nest Winning.
Co easy. though. if you plan to
fiCIA/RF.. MARTIN
• After a snow, trat'Se On Highway 330 to
Big Bear congeals_ The
route along Highway FA
is longer tut less congested.
.eiAtout a hair boa.
closer to Los Angeles
than Inc Beac Mountain
Rgh In WrIghtwood drsides crowds moth three
sections. 00 North for a
Q
0
liii HIpaDYTS
wog eYpl
■• The Lem rs lousy
mi For a hints
wi The fastest way
Till 175110
airdthan dldiarng.
lodges are, from
vdth iromal shoos,
bocktountry, rids
to refuel Oil 11W hC
mg. winds can
bait *Most
CraWdnd, Eagle
Wick Tie Ski Rant.
CLAW Mile ErlOPESS
IS with the snow-
DEPP211r51MCrni
Cat that maim the
slopes. alio-arm,
134/TPITTIII
et Mammoth's
Canyon rind Main
Ledge. Tip barhes no Inuring,
bin rho vibe in
more isublihe at
Ma Mill, a we.
a ir ittf itself apse
by
to
get,....ecea-geeand Via Grier. hi
frenelly..adect i`er
%Wan you tamp kids
to equip.
..smell Net than
wry Dew kfr WA.
IL plunks you abwa
a higtrinawnw4Lale
web of avow- lied
creek each, EfAn
lodge .n 'he base
}land% and narrow
;dila Isom...arm
trails a i4ve. , fOr
Carroan end Man.
an elms*"
burritos end
CorcrsL
my.teriously
&mesa,
Twitter
stay sharp.
%MOW the lifti and
gondola sarong
the aulnmiL Ekd the
1:44',0 bar.W5 linnull
the Knee beep and
Bus 4i rons in this
imetrid part a the
mountain, pfasairus
gender and help
with the crummy
• Serlo_issiglePt weer
Mount Balcly Old-school
by necessity. the mountain tacks the snow-making that the other resorts
use to supplement warm
winters, and tea Nu are
leans then stens-of-the art
But the terrain is vaned.
the scene quieter And
because it's lest than an
hour torn Pasadena,
you can pet there Fast
after a storm.
n.
0 0
0
2
Google alert for "Two for
One Tuesdays '
OW, r 41.. 1•
Riaing the eat
'TIPS TO WASTER THE VAST AND WOOLLY CIIRATIURE KNOWN AS 'MAMMOTH
tubing peek and bunny
slopes. West h ag a herein
pal k. The stevecr, longer
ftMrS Of the East are the
leant trarrerieled. For
lift ticket deals. set up a
\21 /
Meats.
/I \
•
r a-
..„,..beensw,sweremsesill ■
Nomppprs\ •
"P;-•■••—_:,40, •
•
'
•
of^
DEA
.
ALLEY -1-
EIECAU THERE IS NO BETTER TIM
Funeral Mountains. Dry
Bone Canyon, and Hells
Gate — ar unholy trinity of
oeath, desiccation, and the
dayi I—have long made for
effective counterintuitive
branding. In winter, however, North America's lowest
ono driest spot positively
chills out. Night0r5nge
Into the 30s, whale the daytime temporatw -a might
break 713—not soar to 1341
DEATH VALLEY
National Park. recently
reclaimed bragging rights
as Earth's hottest place
after the World Meteorological Organization ruled
that a 136.4-degree temperature reading taken in
Libya in 1922 was invalid lit
was apparently recorded
an asphalt). This is good
news for the park, where
suds locations as the
ti
•
•
•
Cr.
SEE THE H
• • • ••
ST PLACE ON EARTH
as it did on Death Valley's
record-setting day in July
1913. So you'll bundle up
for sunrise pilgrimages to
Zabriskie Point or predawn
1...3.1kS to search for kitfOx
tracks on the was Flat
Sand Dunes. co
are ideal for expkiring the
park's tortured, exposed_
geology, whether it's the
four-mile loop through
the mud-hill badlands of
Golden Canyon Into
Gulch or the one-and
half-mile trek along the
rim of 600-foot-steep
hob. Crater. Roughing It Dr4r .Death Valley is always an
option, but not at the Inn
at Furnace Creak (3345,$465), a 1927 reogiiiktype
retreat that sits In an oasis
of palm trees and is outfitted with aspiring-fed swimming pool. //MATT JAFFE
GRAND CANYON
THE ROCK STAR OF THE SOUTHWEST IS GRANDER STILL WITH A LITTLE SNOW
01§, PUT THE Grand
villr Canyon in outermost
Outer Mongolia, with access limited to caravans of
Przewalski's horses, and
a certain coterie 01 L.A.
residents would happily
endure any and al; la rdships to gat here, if only to
gain Instag•am hegemony
over less adventurous
Friends. As it is. the South
Rim is but a day's drive
east via 1-40. Such proximity undermines a deeper
appreciation—a genuine respect—far Grand
Canyon National ROOS
place among the planet s
rlrop-to-your-kneesand-behold-creation
(Jest inations. That's why
yOU need to go in winter:
The August masses are
gone (visitation drops 130
percent), and the Canyon
loses the one-dimensional,
screensaver familiarity
of summer. As you h.ke
eight miles along the Rim
Trail from Hermit's Rest
to Grand Canyon Village.
the low-angle sun brings
the labynn th's rock strata.
infinite promontories, and
curving alcoves into high
definition. If It storms, consider yoUrSeir fortunate.
The delicate snow buries
yuccas to their spear Tips
and glazes the canyon's
obelisks and amphitheaters as they float aCtOwe
fogs filling the mile-deep
void. Even it the weather
guts nasty (at 7,000 feet
the South Rim receives.
On average. 50 inches of
snow). you can Keep busy.
The park is home to the
highest concentration of
buildings by legendary
.....
Tat 890114, Time
FOITil% 4 LOIN a THY ROAD Er101a
P II LIEN I X TQ TUT %ALAND. CANTON
the t II ke El To Hotel
($178-$4210), the
most majesic buildino. El
Tovar's PCIOITIE (Only a few
have canyon views. among
them the Colter S.ukte) don't
rise to the rough• hewn
g rarmeur Of its log lotploy or
d ining room. where beams
arc overhead. But dinner at
EF Tovar is the uirt3SeSr thirrg
here to Allwahnee , level
elegance. and not C.ven YOsemite can match the nightcap waiting outside along
the South Rini: thEr Gtand
Canyon aglow under rnoon•
light , with elk silhouetted
against the snow
J
ARCOSANTI
=. A1 yILICIPOrf
tact Paolo SI:lien's
Asoacanq dally imam
aApIcrre the eturnally. uritiprchacl dt.5art
corrpaLncl of actunt•.c concrete stnrr
lures a hatciratory
for kileri's theoriet
of Were...19 artFiteeturrt ard ealiNgy A
•
ttrafte. with er.
atnurq 28116.. Sell!. the
tarrok-s &edie.ri wind •
15E416 Ex414se.3 .11'2
•
rwitclry harp.
MONT E UM A
CASTE NATIONAL
1.1 O N LAMENT
rulp.r
ERP11..yri Arqiv.1
couHry rinSeaway
•
4111.0.3k.67 Taaripla
eoreLl.h.Llacr the rIiIt
tlwQlllnq drq~ 1d non.
cosy wing tha .:Jtra
rqr 37.D wpm. Elawn
+I-Was away.. Is mother
Morrtrzurna misno+riff -Marrtezuma
an oases-sae i rnn:tont
•
o;. Peer other
deo:Inns
JIROM
'Nary C.FC31../C.
cornmunrty spared this
torrner rreing aarniet
kern the tycical sera-a
paria-and-sheot-out
chart kern schlock
Jarcana Artists Chopp-alma Gallon. in the
1917 Natal -141P:IPPC., LS. a
.11 ..a..rcasc. 'Dr Iaco1 ta1F
ant. So Is IN ounce Call
▪ Cantina,....alh As wan
or C•3040 skti4r TFLITc
ENV Ch.TE-tOry..FNINekt
Me.kanOsres
OAK 011.1111(
CANYON!
▪ $1,-1p thq l rrtarst.ate
hatmaark S adora and
FLagstart and take
▪ incanderinq haute
th..WEIP1 tIsLS hatastacl
gorge on Higheray
TEIA Tharp a...? WT.
ouNgalefo a Wm. MD
turnb:ng
GaAamel's
ian
airy offer OHM ," Stropping. for lagh-ouakry
SorAllwocs-L art
SEDDNA
▪ .1 rep tWrS are i TIE
but to- really apTAKiSLE
. oclona s.drep-heed.
eroded red ruck furmations. hike Sokaer
rasa, where traria tascl
through Arizona cypress red luniper
the terraced 9..crtta. of
$rten Ssaed Pools
krry ariert, a Ream•
punk coed w dowle
made of exposed kafiderma Erne dead Et*
Then Israt to 1:111* New
Aga ak Eynon% Hot
Cr g15,
la
rarscia born taar.
Pft7
iLista nark to
5.1v9et rurbiarcie
In.Lhe zi.uthtlicLE.Distrect, Tikclarhoc Kitchen and Amax CcKxtail
Laurop servos petrxtacl cc.n1art Macs on a
bracts. space.
F ........
Nt AL LcrweL1 Obpioya-
Juin. Verne-at* %La
Diso•oa-s Telescope.
LAMM; .1:0N
SQM ..I r 1,11111.1..
Southwest art hibeet Wiry
Jane Colter, including The
lifititChtOw4r, with !is Kaibah limestone wails and
1, 930&-era murals. Colter
also designed thg i rvEC-ri6r5
for the cocktail kounge at
RUSTIC CHARM? THIS LITTLE CORNER OF COLORADO HAS IT DT THE WAGONLOAD. AFTER
ALL, YOU CAN'T SPEND ILL YOUR TIME ON THE WORLD-FOAM POWO ER HERE
ODORADO'S THICK 1.NT SNOW5 cushion the mountains surrounding Stearn-
boat Springs. an Old West town where
hUllthogs line streets and
leather-skinned hon.-hers still istop by the saddlery. They began arrheLog Lo the
ISIlals to claim homesteads along the Yampa /liver, well after the native Ike tribe
first summered here, hunting. eLk in the broad valley and soaking in the numerous mineral springs before the November 5114111111S uepnlrl Whitewash the hills.
Unlike Culskrazid ither wows. trees rover Steamboat's truce-foot SUMMILS,
which occupy the Park Range. ThaE's probably One reason Norwegian ski pumper
earl E krwthstri shuck around after arriving in 1.911. xpre-aAing, She govt.) of duyal hiii
spouts- Ranchers' Stalls W43131.41 NOW tilt' 1111. thal eventually became todaoes 3,000-aLre
rtwort. No other town has been home to more plyl11pLaai8 78 so far - but. Steamboat
Spring .qhe resort goes by "Steamboat") is JUR riLr enusmil from big cities to keep it foeling re-al...despite being
so e1*. with the Light 11101y stuff that the town actually trademkuled the ti-1-311 "Cl'inuipagibe rtiveder.Covering two peaks. the terrain orevoluN grin,, not reAr,
h moderate...mint runs that tlow through
powder-laden forwa_ hut yi
siltilt141P11..ariend your whole varat)nn on The slopes. hr i a Iiult lime travel
lS
/ZE.1041 Walla
we , a-1 mining-am natl.
■ •.n..surrad Inks a narrow WI{ Cahrl:Fry
use inu of the
Ms But its sass cantina
0
111111dOrs
MS lug
44-01F. S iiuk )1.11/
I.
FEELIAIDESKIRESILFIT
{We 4}
+evils/0m as klw.
=ranch. chalestorol latariU
el tne .roar Isa•malte.
I
OlJIITt1N NU SP RINGS
ED FalJw..A inalinimr}
11111,11LIMPINaserusdc cab ,
'r,c iliiskalsitl Ls slavapf.755111r1 and 5.121,50PV tries
U.* Is Sant:Nil swags.
las hob-slam or maws
with a b' !surrounded try
chinhrd log sans
CRESTED IDITTE
110110TilN HURT
swes•Nok v em-ians
paha beneath woad
trsarki. DRO .F.a a:as - type
kx.als say goad-bye la
s rvednpl;•140
But VIA Ms torten-. d
/*nem. latsinria
. IN RLE FUNKS RANCH
TI. backee...ffitrg
...wit sits D. WynarnIngs
senior, an Fc)ur noon of
SIsantset.aa once him
ireiy,,y1 And tm9g9e ilhp onF
or-mites: lty-fishirsg,
'3 Puturi. spa., sal Adam
snayrcot mono.
map EIVCT
MAKING
COCOA
1111.!11
7 off f,
Ifcaiame
1.7...ao Oar
fhe.1411'
Take a dark e-taaAANa
barque has ae Nada
OP Kraal carom
quarlieek 71.rlaCra
dLerai 'head beam
on Thu May Ikea
.enema Teener . RNA1
•
to ounces two
puL
...mil pin
with met eneel of
whale malls or kaliexel-I.Y. acted
eareleip
eeilua.32.., wens a
lin.. Lei
with Del's Triangle 3, whose sl xth
eneration ranchers and guides spin
yarns about the valley's past as yule
clomp un horftIrNiCk thrnugh the rugged scenery. later, Etecp in same local
minerals. Downtown's Old ibviril Het
Springs appeals to families with its
water sLLde , ellmbing wall.. and swim•
ming peel, while the sans-kids crowd
prefers Strawberry Park Hot Springswhose ruck-nrometl ptels 9111adder besjdc stands of dense evergreens. After
dark, clothing is nptional.
A four-wheel-drive van frOrn Sweet
PeaTeaus can lalw you on the:at-minutu round.triv to the Hotel Bristol
(.15109-$149). The 2-7-routn histurle
structure, located amid SLea 'abut
Springs" shops and reStaurants, is
v.lihoul. being precinus: Pcndleion blankets warm the beds, ICialile.r
Wing chairs hank the Lobby's blazing
fireplace, and family units provide
grouv, elhowrrem. Three milts away,
Ilie suites at Sheraton Steamboat
Resort Villas (S269.81.549) go for a
contemporary luuk and—more to the
poi ui 414-e. within walking divtanee of
the gondola. ks a bonus you're alsu
short stroll from the elosel-sh..0 Paramount, whine yuu tall l eyeball the trait
rnimusas and thick slices of
french to
through the ortfeetly
spaced pines of the Shadows, one
of the nionniaia's eelebraled runx,
or snaking through the ethereal aspens ofTwiliatt ill an vxpui.lonec that
will leave you yearning tar a helmet
camera. You can Memo [Fir glory at
fine-Chuang spot whose
fluor-DO-belling windows frame the
vast Yampa Valley and Hal
tains. Reserve 4014-41.1 isk get a window
table with your buffalo earpactio and
glazed squab. Or try lhe Belgian-style
mussels and a pus III pilot on Thiffie
Ng's trailaide patio.. The serrice Is
notoriously slaw at SloPeaide Grill. a
legendary hase-area bur, but null..xx]y
cares an bluebird afternoons, when
revelert. pack in around the outdoor
we bar. Closer W. 1114! 1:1.11SIVI, you. Can
yratch chef Brian Vaughn In the open
kitchen at bistro ay. prepurojel-fresh
seafood and the signature burgermade with re,141,gRru heel and foie eras,
Steamboat's nighruh! Ix like the
rest of the tuwn: quid. But most eve•
nines yr)u eau find Live
music by strolling YAM.
WALK THlin LI DI IIISTIa RY
IN NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
E LT up in
the sungre de Cristo kiountale's, Thos is what Stull"
R unesi V. it h igh-desert
i 11 age where art Kau.
Les outnumber stop signs, the Native
America" and Spanish illilUCTLCCE Ktmid the mast pressing decision Lc
•
whether you'll he nrilerl nig the red or
green chile sauce. sunshine and snow
bathe the blocky, earibtoned buildings huddled
around 'Ikon's historic.
pa Street ;Ltid folliu•wing
I700s era playa—omemst
the beats to SweetWa•
them frontiersman Kit
ter Grill, the BOathOnSe
Carson's home—and the
Pub, or Ghost
seer" of smoldering pi ti ~ii
the standout.. on the
pine loom in the crisp
donee circuit. Scene Inn
night air. AMC yourself
sleepy? Catch a hits to
at Cam Benavidel (6105the Mountainside Tug140 VACANCY -Q.0e PuAtHa
$30n)• a pueblo.style hobOat LitIIL i rub, a ven •
tel wiliu*r adobe-walled
erahle base-area sweatrooms come with weed-burning fire ,
box that serree the latest lust call
places "cut viga. ceilings. Just a hop
and books rowdy naUsieLarts who 111rMin the plata, you'll barely litxi.1 yrau.
tun W room after a second encore
rental car, unless ythL decide ILO make
Fi I( EL CY BASTON
the L9-mile drive 10 mouple the trails at
ThaS Sid Valley, a rimart 1114W11 for its
gilt mob ruing American. flefla, and
lighr. dry rrivider and rutru sinlaalcity.
United(which
weacrrui nimuslops
A stmtl to the place will help you gcrt
Tom L.4X),Thi if411 riZerP1241 4ixllep Rr 131 OST 7. . O00
-
gfonoI
25 melee Test raf
ihr
sOri awn. Or fear MAT Demur- curd drirt.
your bratinp, but mnnnikepaAt the turq mikve,levvilry-and-moecasin shupsalal
rnOrg ronuenient tem.; rentingi rdr;
ti.nd winding streets and. ; theywa ytt
that arc anything bill mountain-toxin
clich41 Willi terra-cotta tortilla warm.
ers, spices, and blue awn posofe mix.
Many hotels opr true spuriodno to
/01 and reskarr ants, and the free
to
TAM Cookery has HUNT 1.114111
hiffalght.ThC
fill that extra suittaM
Sracinithkg SpringR Traradt brews hlkk
walls of Conti-non Thread are draped
with fahne hurerts from around the
three iwurs—assurningim 411.1.4081.artm
dog the rvEgey rani Jlir)2rilleii.rt passes.
Etwhins. NA airport shuttle
mety
be
the, •?.;4e area, downdosrn, and ere4441.P3.
•
1 I*"
%genie
I
nsiategla 1
1
HOU
■ lCtl
THE Q.11 1E7 1471.1.
L
TOWN A ■ Mr!. PA LM
PLO t r<r IS
•
LIKE
OTITEM
T herC i* no glamour
There
are no resortS dx
ciOnCICPS Or Ugg
CA
5114 IM
Irmo 914144:1111. TIN ate alan Ur.
wed—in:6dr' xilks, klisehy made ki9 ?Auer-
Taos Sill V} Icy
nary scene. The. Love Apple, a nal(' tu-table
Les patterns from Mexico, brushed bbvail blanPesti' u rani in a whitewashed Rube thaCH
ket. made In Nclial. The proprietor of Rob.
aglow with canrites : is loos -5 finest. Cornin-sun Old Prints t1c Irfeps weru -s a newsboy cap
husk-wrapped troul with cilantro-Lime reluhrrodierdly) and sells aniline maps dating
ish and baked tamales topped with mole and
friar the 1.1.ih century idirrirr, with lithoj.-raphs
a fried efOt offer fresh takes. on Ii favoritm
of Omits and 1611 At CliDC•Olan 4 Cashmere,
Farther up the main road Otiando's. the
you can pop an organic wren chile-mintier
rw-to spot for tradii Iona] New Mexican feral.
ry bonbon wink! limwsing hats, starves, and
Atop Taos Mctia, which spreads lo west
hand wru-rn•rs mule from thick hand-loomed
or limn until. the Rio Grande slkes throu,gh
Scottish yarns in ctimbon, per
it, you cen sip a Holy Mule Porter
aJ j o,
winkle, and outer brWit colors.
and Snftek 1111 .surt pretzels with
Fn liar 1920s, DAL Lawrence
green chile-cheddar di ppIng
•
bartered his Saw am/ 1.ryouTz
Sauce at Taos Mesa Brewing, a
manuscript fora Taos ranch that
recent arrival that Inhabits a
Georgia O'Keeffe later holed.
corrugated-tin airplane hangar.
up irk. Duri ng LFie 1940s, artist:,
In the nearhy
of Arroyo
nocketi to the region_ kicking off
SEL.1. 1. (ea route to Taos Ski. Valley),
the Taos modernist art ninveAces] hits a tight seasonal menu
biffaCertizfte
ment, their atistraci work often
of such New 2rfexlciin fusion
infused with the ocbers and deep
dishes B-9 fried squash blOSSOTTIS
.1rly
.: Irom
greens Of the SIN1111111tilag 111.11C1twn arr ell imoel
and Iamb cAiikwirtriiivr, while Twos
crarl. not Mulch.
smpi, You Lan Act a primer al the
❑ r5W,.;urrus the street, e_raffias in
AugowAr m ,,"
Harwood Museum of krt. whiCh
astilictibe icc cream {try are las.'•
del nice an entire pitery lo the Zen-Iikesimender). Later, when you're in town again, la
plicity of pi flier Agnes Iviartin, who lived in
the Historic 'Rios Inn. near the plat a. for a
Taos the decade before she died_ The :i lobe
marmrita. nightcap and. live music beneath
village 411 Aim Pueblo, a UNESCO WOrld
the vaulted eeiliAig
he ail] k kkkk Lire AdoHeil tawiteiutiahitcdhyNativeAmericans
be liar, pantie:W*4y if the blues-funk band
front the Pucblo tribe for more i 1,000
Monkey Feeders IS Onstage. Then it's hack
years, feels stagy if you stick 41 the 20.rn inthrough the icy winter night to your 1.4145M,
oil: guided waLking trair, btu transforrned
where the fireplace is waiting. Arc . .
several times a year when its members descend for trait! it "'rat mrendrnics such 119 the
alITTINO, /Num I Ca a two-11,Do.rt
on
Buffalo fiance (ea& January). All winter a
Amerman rn Santa Fe. Rcstl it carAr the ROsharp eye will catch sight of the reside's' bufrnite drire rte, tk ZO TOW, gyin g fraoAliniqun,
falo herd roaming the 'wide-open range west
qUe EF ebenVer it adds urn re rri hinff dYroad
of the pueblo.
finer driVint; ctonditiorar are 541Atst
Until reeenily your am-write
tint sibbbd
US. Rota? 285, widch tweet r.'te rim of I& Rio
in Saida Fe, 70 iiiiIcS to the south, but a few
Grwitir urge- If it's mild aski,
krA Road
new additions haw revitalbieri the - Nis cullis a meenk alterna,le rrytae..
retailers. rnar's not
why yOil COM& here,
Less Burton and
more Birkenstcick,
its a sylvan Nairn For
low-budget artists
and tow-key travelef s. Built into the Sin
Jacinto HounthIni
on the other side of
Palm $prings f turn
off the 10 at Banning
and enOtioe up High •
way 2431. the village
Center is banked
with gingerbread
stOrefronts selling
BnticIU.2s, books. New
Age-y gifts. and locall art. A few quaint
B&BS are in town,
but you'll have more
choice with a rentalidyliwildcabins.earn
offers everything
from cozy two-tredndom Swiss chalets
to five•bedroom Wig
settled,
cabins. On
you can drive 0,Aer to
Humber Park to build
snowmen (see page
13B), snowshoe. or
cross-Cfonit y ski on
the hiking trays. Warm
your bones ove' der •roasted eintrecp and 0
fresh-baked erani,er ry
scone at Cafe Aroma.
You may find yourseif
returning far a howl
of potato-leek-garlic
bisque at lunch or
osso buco and gnocchi at dinner But by
then, after a day In
die snowy heightg,
you might want (Cc
stay off-grad k your
cabir and stargaze
from the JacuZzi.
././LiNua iri•EpiAro
7/
PALM SPRINGS
THERE'S A POOLSIDF:
make.
a satisfying crunch
as [hey break through the
Icy snowpaCk stab Mount
San Jacinto. From 4E1,515
feet up, the Lowering
wirmirrni Is you drove past
along the 10 have shrunk
t0pirrwhcefs Galt courses
Ile &CMS% the desert's
rutty
let caterpillars, Ina Sa.11 on $-0.9
reflecting in the dislaillart
as you tromp through the
Jeffrey pines and white
firs that sprout among
II held* of boulders cloaked
n iiirhit;9. I . tN hare. on what
should be a t hOrbuiti hl y
tourFsty outing, awe sets
in. with the mountain
and Paint Springs all the
F oor miraiCulous in the
conteAt or ach of her, You
were smart enough tO
catch the revolving Palm
Springs Aerial Tramway's
first two (slow) rotations
of the day. At 1E4 a m. your
only companions for the
ten-minute, orie•mi le'yoy •
age were a l'Ow die-hard
snowshoers and a dozing
Peaks restaurant cook an
his morning commute.
WAITING
The vacationing throngs
In LO.I.ir WAS% below won't
make it up far another
hour. By then yoLri I be
YOUR BOOTS
-AP
Saurrry IJOYen, igrikduiriay
-
#2. eddlng. linsMS Of
cIOkh-
i until eve.nfuisily you're.
In your swimsuit toside
the saltwater pool of the
17-room Del Marcos Hoter
31344329). Designed
In 1947 by William Cody..
the prOperty underwent
redo lest
and holds the honor or
being one at the only
hotels in the area to play
period mug!: by the pool.
FrOm beach weather to
arctic corpoirion# and back
amain—it's not your last
space-time shift today,.
During dinner at wordy
shop Restaurant + Bar.
you savor the pickled
caulifirOwer flOretS dotting
your octopus cerpaccio
and the hits 01 Chipiery nEnj
rice In the !hewed fennel
salad. Once the waiter deI l'IPEFS the old-school mm
punch bowl to the table,
you'll swear you've been
teleoorted to L.A.
d LESLEY BA
EILITEP ■