Baltic odyssey – Alisara heads east

Baltic odyssey – Alisara heads east
Stockholm to Åland and south Finland
John de Trafford
In May 2013 Alisara sailed from Lake Malaren into the Baltic and we spent
two enjoyable weeks exploring the Stockholm Archipelago, but come July
it was time for us to head east. Mike and Emma, who had crewed on the
west coast of Sweden in 2012, joined me at Varmdo’s Bullando Marina
together with Andrew, new to Alisara, but our resident expert on the
Åland Island fortress of Bomarsund.
I knew very little about the Åland Islands till a couple of years ago,
let alone thought of going there. However, Andrew was quick to set me
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straight on the historical importance of the islands as a strategic crossroads
mid-way between Sweden and Finland. He explained how they had been
fought over by the Swedes and Russians, until ‘liberated’ by an AngloFrench expeditionary force in 1854.
This formed part of our crew briefing on the first evening, as we enjoyed
a leisurely, pre-dinner drink in the cockpit. Tip number 1: Eating out in
Scandinavia is eye-wateringly expensive but, rather than dramatically
reduce the number of meals we had ashore, we developed the custom of
having wine and canapés on Alisara first and then restricting ourselves to
two courses and a beer in the restaurant before retiring to the boat for a
night-cap.
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John de Trafford
I must admit to my lack of experience
when offering tips on sailing in
Scandinavia, but as a relative newcomer,
certain insights are still fresh in the
memory. It was the next morning that I
learnt the hard way Tip number 2: Embrace
the local foodstuffs, but don’t be shy about
asking for advice. Provisioning for the next
few days seemed straightforward: delicious
square bread-rolls for open sandwiches at
lunchtime, salads and herbs still growing
in their pots, pickled herrings and seafood
of every type. However, the meats, milk
The skipper
and deserts presented a challenge in their
packaging with Swedish descriptions that were hard to guess. Help was
at hand to determine which carton contained cream, but a false step with
Greek yoghurt meant that we ended up with Tzatziki, whose garlic and
cucumber were not the best accompaniment to a fruit dessert!
Never mind. The journey from the centre of the archipelago to the
NE corner was spectacular. The sun shone; the sea sparkled and Alisara
revelled in SE4 as we twisted and turned through the islands to Sjalbottna
for the first night and Arholma for the second. Tip Number 3: There is so
much choice that it is easy to lose the ‘madding crowd’. In truth the best
way to find empty anchorages is to sail in May or after mid-August. The
former can still suffer from chilly mornings and sea mist, but the latter is
delightful and significantly warmer for swimming. However, even in July,
which is the height of the holiday season, all one needs is a Plan B. At
Sjalbottna we were heading for Vadorsuddden anchorage but, confronted
with a forest of masts, we went round the corner to Norrviken Bay. Later
at Arholma we anchored off the west harbour and avoided the scrum while
still enjoying all that the island had to offer.
Arholma lived up to its recommendation as a good jumping-off point
for Åland. The four of us went for a delightful wander past the flowerfilled verges to the SE harbour and then back to the windmill and nearby
church. The laid-back atmosphere was only disturbed by the sound of an
exercise class, as the younger residents flexed their muscles.
July 1st greeted us with perfect sailing conditions for the 30nm crossing
to the Åland Islands. We put in the water ballast and made an effortless
6-7kts, remembering just in time to hoist the Åland flag (similar to the
Swedish yellow cross on a blue background, but with an additional red
cross inside the yellow) and advance our watches by an hour for we were
now entering Finland . . . or were we? Just like their flag, there is a curious
cultural blending about the Åland Islands. They speak Swedish rather
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Baltic odyssey – Alisara heads east
than Finnish and, while
being part of Finland,
like to proclaim their
independence at every
opportunity. Still, their
clocks are Finnish, an
hour ahead of Sweden.
Since
our
key
objective
was
to
head to Bomarsund
and its fortress on
the east of the main
island, we entered the
less frequented East
Harbour of Mariehamn,
where yachts moor
between posts. Tip
Number 4: Do as the
locals do and buy the
right gear for mooring
in Scandinavia. You
will find invaluable a
stern anchor, a buoycatching hook, a reel of
Alisara
braid on the transom,
plus two snap-hooks for the bow lines and even a piton or two. However,
none of these will help when one tries to squeeze 4.3m of beam between
posts set 4 metres apart. Take my word, it doesn’t work! We had to circle
round and search for a wider berth.
Mariehamn, as the capital of Åland, has much to recommend it, but
it is not the best looking town. We shopped, ate out and departed next
day through Lemstrom’s Canal towards Kastelholm. This was the main
town in the Åland Islands until the mid 18th Century and is home to an
imposing castle. There are also a number of old houses surrounded by
very unusual, Åland-style diagonal fencing. The whole made a worthwhile
visit, although the guest harbour lacked shelter from the southerly wind
and our doubled-up bow line to the buoy nearly frayed through as we
tugged this way and that. (See Tip 4 about a buoy-catching hook that stays
in place.)
The following day required a short sail round to Bomarsund, with
detours to spot some war graves along the way. We reconnoitered the
recommended anchorages, but found them too exposed to the stiff
southerly breeze and so we sought out a much more sheltered spot in
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John de Trafford
Kilsviken Bay on the island of Prasto. From there we were able to scramble
over a bank and take the path south to the bridge and museum. This left
the whole afternoon for an extensive visit to Bomarsund.
Andrew Dykes writes: Nowadays, we think of the great Russian War of
1854 – 1856 as ‘the Crimean War’. The naval campaigns in the Baltic of 1854
and 1855 have almost been forgotten, even though they contributed more to the
defeat of Russia than the land campaign in far away Crimea.
On the outbreak of war, Britain quickly sent a huge fleet into the Baltic – the
largest fleet ever seen in these waters – comprising no fewer than 28 ships of the
line, five first class frigates, and many auxiliary vessels, with well over 30,000
men. Greatly outclassing the Russian Baltic Fleet, because of superior modern
armaments and the crucial advantage of steam power (most of the ships of the
line had auxiliary engines), the fleet quickly imposed a very effective blockade,
strangling Russian trade through its main outlet to the world.
Under pressure from his officers and from the government in London, who
wanted a dazzling victory, Admiral Napier decided to attack the nearest Russian
target of substance, the fortress of Bomarsund. This huge fortress – one of the
largest in the Russian Empire – had been under construction for nearly 30
years, but was still unfinished. The Russians nevertheless believed that it was
impregnable, partly because of difficulties of navigation: the fortress was only
accessible to a sailing fleet from the North, with a very difficult passage. But
they reckoned without England’s secret weapon – the fleet hydrographer Captain
Bartholomew Sulivan.
Sulivan had no charts (in common with the rest of the fleet), but in the small,
obsolete paddle steamer Lightning he reconnoitred the southern approaches to
Bomarsund, using gifts of Swedish language Bibles and generous payments for
the purchase of eggs and milk as his secret weapons to befriend the locals and enlist
their help. He discovered that the narrow, unguarded Ångo Sound was navigable
to steamships. So early in August 1854 he led the British fleet and its French
allies, through it into Lumparfjord beside the fortress. Even today this would be
a difficult passage for a large ship, let alone a fleet. Caught utterly unawares, the
Russians had no answer to the fleet bombardment of the fortress, or to the troops
who landed to make an assault. In less than five days, Bomarsund had fallen,
with very few casualties on the Allied side.
The attack was so successful that the following year it led to another on Sveaborg
(now called Suomenlinna), a major Russian fortress off Helsinki. It was utterly
destroyed by naval bombardment without the loss of a single man on the Allied
side. This demonstration of naval superiority convinced the Russians that if they
continued the war, the same treatment would be meted out to Kronstadt and then
St Petersburg. They sued for peace.
Today, the remains of Bomarsund are open to visitors, although sadly very
rarely visited by the British. There is plenty to see there: a small museum, damaged
walls still showing bullet and cannon ball marks, ancient cannon, and the ruins
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Baltic odyssey – Alisara heads east
of the settlement beside the fortress that
the Russians had hoped would become
a new capital of the Åland Islands.
There is also a memorial to ActingMate Charles Lucas of the Hecla, who
became the first winner of the Victoria
Cross by throwing a live Russian
howitzer shell overboard during the
naval bombardment - a story used by
C S Forester in Hornblower and the
Hotspur. The Baltic naval campaign
may be forgotten now, but its success,
at a very low cost in lives, deserves to
be remembered as an antidote to the
contemporaneous bungling by the army
in the Crimea.
That evening we returned tired
Bomarsund - remains of the main fort
from our lengthy tramp over the
ruins. It was peaceful in our own private anchorage and the kitchen duty
brigade produced Taddchewii Prawns and a ‘yoghurt-plus-much-else’
desert, christened Kilsviken Lemon Killer. All seemed well with the
world, as we ended with the ship’s favourite game of Bananagram, applying
appropriate handicaps to anyone who produced a winning streak.
On July 4th our good luck with the weather finally gave out and it was
spotting with rain as we motored north to investigate where the British
troops would have landed their 12 pounder howitzers and Congreve rockets
to attack the forts. After motoring to and fro for a while, we believed we
found the only suitable site, before turning around to sail out into the
Lumparn and then down Ango Sound to connect with Sulivan’s Passage.
Most of our route was along the clearly charted channels, but we had
plotted an ‘off-piste’ section to cut across and save time. It was only when
we had started on it that I had cold feet and ordered an about turn to
rejoin a marked channel. The chart and chart plotter were simply not
giving us enough detail to pick our way safely across a rocky area and
I was mindful of the written warnings about unmarked rocks. We had
already encountered one rock and were going to hit another, unmarked
and surprisingly located, before the season was over. As they say in these
waters, there are two categories of sailors: those who have hit a rock and
those who haven’t as yet hit a rock.
That night we had again decided to anchor off rather than join other
boats in the HSS Gasthamn (guest-harbour) to the south of Degerby. It
was rather more peaceful, although not easy to find a sheltered spot that
wasn’t too close to someone’s home. As it was, we had to avert our gaze
47
John de Trafford
as an elderly couple embarked on their evening ritual of skinny dipping
from their dock.
Sadly the first week of our July cruise was almost over and the following
day we sailed in light winds and a clearing, morning mist to the West
Harbour at Mariehamn. This was the venue for a crew change, marked
by an excellent farewell dinner in the Åland Sailing Club restaurant and
a thorough clean-up of Alisara, followed by the skipper’s boat chores,
reprovisioning and then collecting the new crew from the late ferry out
of Stockholm.
Nick and Jane had day-sailed with me in Scotland, while Ali (Alison)
had joined me for a week in each of the previous three seasons. They barely
knew each other, but in next to no time all settled into their respective
roles, accompanied by a happy banter. Nick opted to take on the bulk of
the navigation and delighted in plotting our meandering courses through
the islands with up to forty waypoints in a typical 30 mile sail. Jane and
Ali were our joint top helmswomen (it would be ungallant to pick one)
while Ali became our ace tyer of bowlines - after some practice!
Our first stop after a short afternoon sail was Rodhamn. We anchored
on the west of the bay and rowed ashore to explore the harbour and nearby
attractions. Having admired the art works that were displayed in the
loos as well as the tiny gallery, we purchased home-smoked salmon and
cinnamon buns and then enjoyed a beer in the late afternoon sun, while
being treated to an impromptu concert by two of the local children.
Five o’clock the next morning was less idyllic, for the wind had swung
through 180° and started to blow. The anchor dragged and we had to move
to a more sheltered spot half a mile to the north. The forecast was NE5,
but it turned out to be F6 gusting 7 from the north. The planned sail to
Krakskar was still on but, to ease our passage, we motor-sailed with just
a well-reefed mainsail northwards through Degerby, sheltered from the
worst of the seas by the myriad islands. By midday we were able to stop
the motor and head east at good speed, with the sun just breaking through
the clouds and lighting up the white horses. Steering was hard work and
for once the men were allowed to take a turn.
The boisterous conditions made the pleasure of turning into the NJK
harbour in Krakskar all the more pronounced. Tip number 5: Make use
of the NJK’s generous arrangement with the RCC that allows us to use
their delightful selection of private harbours, each with a well-kept club
house and most with a wood-burning sauna. Nick and I were soon at work
lighting the sauna and chopping more wood to replenish the supply. As
we relaxed after our sail we really appreciated the Finnish love of saunas.
After the wind came the calm. The following day we continued our
way east under the big red asymmetric, enjoying the sunshine and gentle
breeze. It was an easy decision to choose another NJK harbour for the
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Baltic odyssey – Alisara heads east
night, but first we stopped in
Korporstrom for some fresh food
and wine. The former was easy,
but any alcohol stronger than beer
proved to be a problem. Yes, it could
be supplied, but it would have to be
ordered, which would take 48 hours.
Never mind. The shop stocked tonic
water and we had plenty of gin and
whisky on board. Wine would have
to be rationed.
Lill-Kalvholm turned out to be
even more delightful than Kraskar.
There was another NJK yacht
when we arrived and, once we had
hooked our stern buoy, they helped
us to secure to the rings ashore. Not
NJK harbour at Lill-Kalvholm
being as young as we once were,
it seemed easier to use the dinghy to pull ourselves to land, rather than
scramble down over the bow and make a giant leap for the shore. The
Scandinavians have special bow-ladders to aid this manoeuvre, which
certainly beats Alisara’s step fender. However, their bows are generally not
as high and their limbs are probably more supple.
Another advantage of not arriving first is that with any luck the sauna
will be nicely heated for your turn. All that is required is to split some
more logs and replenish the stove. We began to appreciate that locating
the sauna away from the club-house was not just to avoid a fire hazard,
but to make it easier to plunge into the sea after spells in the sauna, before
drying off on the benches or rocks that typically face the early evening
sun. They have it all worked out!
The next day was damp and windless as we motored the 14 miles to
Gullkrona. The anchor went down in soft mud just west of Furuskar and
after lunch the rain stopped and we rowed across the sound to Gullkrona
harbour. There is a rather sad story about how illness has taken its toll
on the family who live here. They still welcome day visitors, however, to
explore the island and the old pilot house museum. We bought smoked
fish and almond cake, and that night we took advantage of our isolated
anchorage to play music through the cockpit speakers. Any observer
would have been surprised to see four crewmembers re-living their youth
by jiving on Alisara’s wide after-deck to the Hits of the Sixties.
With one further night before Hanko, we chose to head south to the NJK
harbour in Langholmen, even though it doesn’t have a sauna. The day
was glorious and we were able to gybe our way downwind, accompanied
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John de Trafford
by a surprising number of other
yachts. Throughout the summer we
had seen very few visiting yachts
from non-Baltic countries and only
three from Britain. Perhaps it is like
the west coast of Scotland, where
exaggerated tales of midges, ticks
and worse help keep it uncrowded
for those in the know.
That evening we were again able
to cater for a variety of pleasures.
Jane enjoyed taking the dinghy for
a row. Nick, brought up in Scotland
and unperturbed by cold water,
went for a swim. Ali was stuck into
a book and I turned to my paints.
Exploring
ashore,
zigzagging
between the pines and the rocks,
Bomarsund (John de Trafford)
was a joint activity, as was the choice of drinks, dinner, music and gossip
to pass the evening in a golden spirit of friendship.
All too soon our week was up and by mid-afternoon on Friday we were
tying up in Hanko. I had chosen the private Itamaren Portti, because
Alisara was going to be left on her own for four weeks and there was a
promise of supervision. The facilities were also good and that evening we
enjoyed another sauna. Tip Number 6: The natural reserve of the English
may cause anxiety about following the correct sauna etiquette. However,
my advice is ‘plunge in’ and do as they do. A towel wrapped round the
body can be kept or discarded. In Hanko male and female saunas are
adjoining, but frequently they are unisex. We were initially surprised to
find unscreened windows, balconies overlooking kid’s playgrounds, and
children of both sexes wandering in and out of both single-sex saunas.
However, taking a sauna is an everyday, shared family experience for the
Finns and so it all seems very natural.
I had struck up a useful relationship with the local car-hire company,
Han-Car, and on Saturday we drove the 90 minutes or so to Helsinki for
a day of sightseeing. Tip number 7: There are some excellent sightseeing
options in Scandinavia outside the capital cities. Besides Helsinki and
Stockholm, where some crewmembers opted to spend extra time at the
beginning or end of their trips, we can recommend Bomarsund, Turku
and Ekenas. In August we were to enjoy the music festival in Turku, with
a spectacular single-handed version of Stravinsky’s Right of Spring on the
organ. However, while smaller in scope, Ekenas made a worthwile stop
that evening on the way back from Helsinki. We wandered round the old
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Baltic odyssey – Alisara heads east
town and had a farewell dinner at the edge of the harbour. I vowed to
return by sea a few weeks later for a proper visit.
Sunday morning was set aside for the big clean-up before we drove
ourselves to Helsinki airport for the flight home. Tip number 8: The
Evening sun over the Finnish islands
logistics of organising three two-week cruises in the Baltic with weekly
crew changes, was no more difficult than doing the same thing in Scotland.
Flights, ground transport and other logistics are no more complicated and
most Scandinavians speak very good English. Prices, including those for
overwintering, are also very comparable. Scotland scores for sea life and
majestic scenery, while the Baltic scores for the multitude of islands and
widespread cruising facilities. I wouldn’t want to miss either.
In August Alisara headed north to Turku, the ancient capital of Finland
and then east to Helsinki, both hugely enjoyable. Plans are developing for
a third year in the Baltic before starting to head for home. My final tip
for anyone thinking of sailing from the UK to join the 2014 RCC meet in
Åland is that a year is simply not enough!
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