Autumn 2011 - Les Dames d`Escoffier International

Fall
Grande Dame
2011
Nathalie Dupree
IN THIS ISSUE
FEAT U R ES
4-5
6-10
11
25th Anniversary LDEI
There Is Nothing Like a Dame!
Member Blogs
12-13
DFV Wines
Introduce HandCraft
14-15
Board Meeting
in St. Louis
16-17
London Dames Host
Great Kitchen Clear-Out
18-19
Charleston's
Autumn Affair
20-21
Washington D.C.
French Dinner
22
Global Culinary Postcard
D EPA RT MENTS
3
23-26
FALL• 2 O 1 1
Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree
President’s Message
Chapter News
27
Member Milestones
30
Submission Guidelines
2 0 1 1 L D EI B OA R D O F DI R EC TO RS
Nothing makes the earth seem so spacious as to have friends at a distance;
they make the latitudes and longitudes. Henry David Thoreau
There’s a lot to read about in the Fall Quarterly! We salute the 25th
anniversary of lDeI, celebrate Nathalie Dupree (Charleston) as our
new Grande Dame, and showcase recent events from three chapters:
london, Charleston and Washington D.C.
The Quarterly editor works closely with the members and friends of
lDeI, investing time in their interests. During my three-year tenure
as editor and international board member, it has been a privilege to
meet extraordinary Dames from 28 chapters. as a result, two new
columns have been added: The Global Culinary Post Card, which
brings Dames closer together around the global dinner table and WeBelong, the place to share a meaningful excerpt from your personal
blog and tell what’s on your mind.
It’s also a season of change, as the 2012 board of directors takes the
helm. It’s challenging to manage Quarterly responsibilities with professional and personal obligations, so in a vote of confidence, the board
of directors invited me to partner with CiCi Williamson (Washington
D.C.) as co-editors next year. In sharing caretaking duties, we have a
strong common vision and promise to keep the conversation stimulating! you are the “voice” of lDeI so tell us more about you and your
chapter activities for upcoming issues. CiCi’s Winter issue highlights
recent conference activities in atlanta, and as for me, I’m dreaming
about spring!
Heartfelt thanks go to advisors CiCi and 2011 President Sandy Hu
(San Francisco) for being consistently supportive and maintaining a
sense of humor. also, to the forward-thinking lDeI board members
and to executive Director Greg Jewell and his efficient staff. Thanks to
Department editors Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) and Chandra
Ram (Chicago) and the “quiet “volunteers behind the scenes: veteran
proofer Jane Mengenhauser (Washington D.C.) and Lori Willis (St.
louis). Very special thanks to our exceptional Indiana design team,
Bernie Mudd and Joni Keith. It’s also important to say thank you to
the talented editors who left their mark before me; your contributions
make the Quarterly a better magazine.
Three years ago, long-time friend Katherine Newell Smith (Washington D.C.) asked if I would take on the Quarterly editor’s job. as
a new Dame, this was unexpected and I worried about filling “big
shoes.” But how does one say no to Katherine? I am glad I didn’t try.
She gave me the extraordinary gift of learning a little bit more about
what I'm made of. Never mind limits! Not only should we set goals
and meet them, but also, we should try to surpass them by a mile.
Thanks Katherine!
Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston)
The mission of the LDEI board is to foster the growth and success of the organization by
supporting the development of new and existing chapters. It provides guidance, education,
connectivity and effective communication among LDEI members.
President
Second Vice President
Secretary
Chapter Board Liaisons
Immediate Past President
SANDY HU
SUSAN FULLER SLACK C.C.P.
DOROTHY R. KOTESKI
JANET BURGESS
TERESA J. FARNEY C.H.E., C.C.P.
First Vice President
Third Vice President
Treasurer
Principal
Sandy Hu Food Marketing LLC
380 Roosevelt Way
San Francisco, CA 94114
(415) 626-1765 (w)
(415) 533-5653 (c)
[email protected]
MARY S. MOORE
Founder/CEO
The Cook’s Warehouse
1075 Zonolite Road, NE, Suite 1-C
Atlanta, GA 30306
(404) 492-9018 (w)
(404) 374-6740 (c)
[email protected]
2
Food Writer/Culinary Educator
Culinary Bouquets
116 Hurlingham Drive
Columbia, SC 29223
(803) 736-7103 (w)
(803) 917-8837 (c)
[email protected]
BRENDA MCDOWELL
President
M&P Food Communications, Inc.
200 E. Delaware, 7-C
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 201-9101 (w)
(312) 485-5783 (c)
[email protected]
Professor, Allied Health Department
Community College of Philadelphia
27 Cooper Run Drive
Cherry Hill, NJ 08003-2244
(856) 489-0052 (h)
(609)-206-8233 (c)
[email protected]
KATHLEEN PERRY
the everyday gourmet®
2950 Mt. Wilkinson Parkway,SE, #503
Atlanta, GA 30339
(770) 801-9436 (w)
(770) 845-8438 (c)
[email protected]
Culinary Adventures San Diego
6267 Lake Lucerne Drive
San Diego, CA 92119
(619) 463-7576 (w)
(619) 274-4013 (c)
[email protected]
SHARON VAN METER
President, SVM Productions
Milestone Culinary Arts Center
4531 McKinney Avenue
Dallas, TX 75202
(214) 217-2819
(469) 235-7506
[email protected]
MARY ELLEN GRIFFIN
Food Editor, The Gazette
7220 Delmonico Drive
Colorado Springs, CO 80919
(719) 636-0271 (w)
(719) 330-3353 (c)
[email protected]
Executive Director
GREG JEWELL
President, AEC Management Resources
P.O. Box 4961
Louisville, KY 40204
(502) 456-1851 x1
(502) 727-2467
[email protected]
Partner, Continental Consulting Group
320 Strawberry Hill Ave., #58
Stamford, CT 06902
(203) 975 7610 (w)
(203) 273 8824 (c)
[email protected]
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Working Together
There’s nothing more meaningful than friendships forged
over a year working together in common cause. I treasure the
opportunities I’ve had to collaborate with Dames across geographies who have given so generously of their time, talents,
wisdom and professional expertise. And as the board year
comes to a close, I want to thank them and you for having
allowed me this remarkable privilege.
This fall marks the 25th anniversary of the founding of les Dames
d’escoffier International and the atlanta conference is our 24th annual
gathering. We are the heirs to a rich and illustrious heritage – a heritage that is retold in an article by Katherine Newell Smith (Washington, D.C.) in this issue of the Quarterly.
It’s a story of Dames with a shared vision and a desire to effect
change. It reflects a powerful, can-do attitude that gave birth to lDeI
and nurtured it, and the many Dames who have carried this spirit
forward, until we are now 1,500 members strong across 28 chapters in
the u.S., Canada and Great Britain.
While our structure is as a bottoms-up organization comprised of
autonomous chapters, the lDeI Board is the unifying force that knits
our chapters together. We are not merely disparate groups of food
professionals who belong to a local organization. We are more. as a
unified international body, our collective influence extends beyond our
local borders.
The board helps to define what it means to be a Dame by working
with the chapters to determine who we honor and what initiatives we
support collectively. The board sets policies and procedures that ensure
constancy and consistency. The board is also responsible for producing
an annual conference as a spirited gathering that allows Dames from
all chapters to connect with each other and to learn and grow both
personally and professionally from the experience.
This year, our warmest thanks go to the atlanta Chapter and conference co-chairs, Dana Dabruzzi and Carolyn O’Neil, for the endless
hours of thought and planning, for leveraging their personal connections and resources, and for their magnificent efforts to ensure a seamless execution and a fabulous conference experience.
We thank our partners whose generosity makes lDeI possible and we
look forward to learning more about their products and services, as we
engage with them throughout the year.
I want to thank the lDeI board. Mary Moore (atlanta), our first
vice president, has broken all records in partnership support, working
with our director of development Susan Weinstein (Miami). Second
vice president Susan Slack (Charleston) has edited the Quarterly for
the past three years as a volunteer, a job that is so daunting in its demands that we have turned it into a paid position for next year. Susan
will continue to helm the Quarterly with CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.) as co-editor.
Third vice president Brenda McDowell developed our first lDeI
food trends survey to showcase the collective insight of Dames. She
has also developed our social media strategy so we can begin to unleash
the influence of each Dame’s social media relationships to spread news
about lDeI.
Secretary Dottie Koteski has been our liaison for new chapter
outreach and is helping to guide our strategy for future growth. She
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
ensures that the minutes are accurate and is a touchstone on tone in all
communications. For the past two years, Dottie has secured an invitation for the lDeI president to attend the conference of the american
Dietetic association.
treasurer Kathleen Perry has ensured that our financial systems
and practices are in order. and she has singlehandedly conceived and
spearheaded an effort to create and sell lDeI caps as a fundraiser to
enhance our revenues.
The three directors at large are invaluable as our conduit to the chapters, sharing news from the board to the chapters and chapter news
back to the board. to better reflect their responsibilities, we have given
the Dals a new name: chapter board liaison. Our CBls who served so
splendidly this year were Mary Ellen Griffith (New york), Janet Burgess (San Diego) and Sharon Van Meter (Dallas). Sharon also took
on double duty, volunteering to chair this year’s auction, using her staff
at SVM Productions to support her indefatigable efforts.
Our immediate past president Teresa Farney (Colorado) has been
a wise counsel and provided valuable continuity. She has also been a
liaison to our past presidents.
Committees keep our programs running and vibrant. I’d like to thank
Suzanne Brown (atlanta), chair of the Global Culinary Initiative, and
her committee; co-chairs Barbara Petit (atlanta) and Laura SapienzaGrabski (Northeast) and the Green tables Committee; Lila Gault
(New york) and the legacy awards committee, lila again and the
nominating committee; and Brenda McDowell and the Pr committee.
I would also like to thank our past presidents for reviewing and vetting
the Grande Dame nominations.
I want to give special thanks to Greg Jewell, our executive director,
who is celebrating his 10th anniversary with lDeI this year. you may
appreciate Greg for keeping the trains running on time but he is also
an invaluable counselor to the board who truly understands the heart
of our organization and our people. and, he manages to maintain a
sense of humor in the best and worst of times.
Finally, the goal of each incoming board should be to strive at doing
better than the outgoing board. each year, we need to up our game. I
have no doubt that our dynamic new president, Mary Moore (atlanta)
and her new board will do just that.
3
“On October
27, 1986,
LDEI was
officially
launched at a
gala dinner in
the lobby of the
New York Daily
News, next
to the world's
largest indoor
globe. It was
an appropriate
backdrop to
commemorate
the growing
225-member
organization.”
4
lDeI’s
Celebrating
25 years of History
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
As Les Dames d’Escoffier reaches its
25th year anniversary, Katherine
Newell Smith takes a look back at
the organization’s founding.
hat were
you doing
in 1973? That
year Secretariat won
the Triple Crown, the
Watergate scandal erupted and the first portable
cell phone call was made in
New York City. It was also the year
Carol Brock received the charter for the New York
branch of the Les Amis d’Escoffier Society. Her idea
was to organize the first-ever professional group of
women in the food and wine industries.
“I was a member of Home Economists in Business,”
Carol says.”And I saw what networking and monthly
meetings could do. It was empowering. But I wanted
to offer more and, frankly, to do it better than the
men in the food industry. And I wanted it to be ladylike and do it with elegance.”
Carol’s first challenge was to find 50 members in
New York. Women in management in our industries
then were scarce. It took Carol three years to gather
enough names. So Carol took her blank 3”x5” cards
to every food event and asked for names of outstanding women in the field.
She later formed a task force to help fine-tune the
concept: Mary Lyons, marketing and communications director, Foods and Wines from France; Elayne
Kleeman, who created the first U.S. wine auction at
Heublein; Helene Bennett, executive director, Wine
and Food Society; Beverly Barbour, international
marketing and public relations, and Ella Elvin, food
editor, New York Daily News.
Initially, the group planned to form an association
to provide education and networking opportunities.
Even then, they decided to form an international
organization as soon as there were five chapters.
On November 8, 1976, Les Dames Escoffier/ New
York held its first gala and investiture at the French
Consulate. Dames welcomed 50 food-and-wine professionals as new members. Halston designed the serviettes; Tiffany designed the silver napkin rings/bracelets
as well as the original Les Dames d’Escoffier logo. (The
present wheat-and-grape logo, commissioned by the
Washington, D.C. chapter in 1982, was adopted by
LDEI in 1991.) Photographs of the group were taken
on the grand staircase. Elegant, indeed!
Early on, LDE/NY began to hold Op Eds: Operation Education, with monthly speakers. Also, when
a renowned person came through town, a breakfast
was scheduled.
“In the first or second year,” Carol recalls,” Dame
Frances Low arranged for three internships aboard a
cruise ship for young female culinary students. Sara
Moulton was one of those recipients.”
Thus, providing women with internships and
scholarship support was incorporated into Dames’
mission.
By 1984, the five chapters needed for an international organization had been established: New York
(1976), Washington, D.C. (1981), Chicago (1982),
Dallas (1984) and Philadelphia (1984). Over the
next two years, the chapter presidents constructed
the framework for the new organization. On October
27, 1986, LDEI was officially launched at a gala
dinner in the lobby of the New York Daily News,
next to the world's largest indoor globe. It was an
appropriate backdrop to commemorate the growing
225-member organization.
Twenty-five years later, with over 1,500 distinguished members from various disciplines in 28
chapters in the U.S., Canada and Great Britain,
Carol’s original vision for Dames has expanded.
LDEI has established a Grande Dame award to
recognize influential women in our fields, the M.F.K.
Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary Writing and
the Legacy Awards, which offers one-week intensive
work/study opportunities to deserving women.
The Green Tables (garden-to-table) Initiative has
energized our chapters and tapped in to a growing
interest among members. Many chapter activities
now include public education programs as well as
scholarships, grants and internships. Most chapters
have added more community service as well.
“I find our Green Tables Initiative tremendously
exciting.” Carol reflects. “It is wonderful what we are
doing with children. I never thought of that aspect
for our organization.”
The new Global Culinary Initiative embraces our
cultural diversities and fosters international understanding through food. Chapters are actively working
in communities on projects that encourage building
cross-cultural relationships.
Beyond all the money we have raised and the public
services we have performed, Carol’s true gift has been
the opportunity to form lasting, significant bonds
between members. We know who we can count on
for support, personally and professionally. We just
need to ask.
Indeed, LDEI and its member chapters continue to
build on Carol’s dream, enthusiasm and perseverance
and, no doubt, do so better than the guys.
photo of KNS: Hayley Matson-Mathes
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
5
Grande Dame
Nathalie Dupree
ComPiled By Virginia Willis (atlanta)
N
6
Nathalie Dupree has created the perfect
recipe for a successful, well-balanced
culinary career. The ingredients include
her roles as teacher, author, and tV
cooking show host. This year she was
recognized for her accomplishments and
achievements with the Grande Dame
award from les Dames d’escoffier
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
International. Host of over 300
top-rated television cooking shows
airing on PBS, The learning
Channel, and the television Food
Network, Nathalie’s success is
a combination of her easy and
practical food expertise combined
with a warm, inviting personality.
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
7
Photos by Susan Slack
The author of eleven cookbooks, Nathalie has won two James Beard
Awards and one International Association of Culinary Professional
Award. She has written food articles for the Charleston Magazine, The
Charleston Post and Courier, Los Angeles Times, Atlanta Journal-Constitution, Traditional Home, Atlanta magazine, the Washington Post and Cook’s
magazine among other well know publications.
Her first cooking stint was in 1959, when the cook in her boarding
house, Harvard Street Cooperative in Cambridge, Massachusetts, got
sick. After several colossal nights of near-failures, she fed 18 people until the cook returned. At that time, she told her mother she wanted to
be a cook. Her mother said, “Ladies don’t cook.” She embellished her
statement with the fact that Nathalie would have to work at night, with
men, lift heavy pots, and suffer abusive attitudes. She relented enough
to tell Nathalie if she could find one woman chef to talk to, she could
consider pursuing it as a job.
There was not one female chef Nathalie could find to talk to in 1959.
After receiving an advanced certificate from London’s Cordon Bleu,
Nathalie started her restaurant career as a chef in Majorca, Spain. She
later moved to Social Circle, Georgia and started the “New Southern
Cooking Movement” in the early 1970’s by blending regional ingredients with French and Southern cooking techniques. She grew much of
her food as well as purchased it from local farmers and butchers. She
later opened another regional restaurant in Richmond, Virginia, for the
Marriott Corporation, also called Nathalie’s.
She founded Rich’s Cooking School in 1975, where she served as chef,
instructor, and director for more than a decade, teaching over 10,000
students.
Her enthusiasm to teach generations of followers how to cook has been
the shining light in her more than 30 years as cookbook author, TV and
radio cooking show host, restaurateur, instructor, and champion for getting the word out on the benefits of being in the kitchen.
Nathalie has what she calls her “little chickens” referencing her brood
of students and interns. Many of them are now in their own food enterprises as chefs, writers, cooking school operators, and TV personalities, counting among them Atlanta Dames Shirley Corriher, Virginia
Willis, and Rebecca Lang, all of whom she says exceed her in their
impressive works and give her great pride.
Incoming LDEI President Mary Moore (Atlanta) states, “Nathalie is
a true leader and inspiration in our industry. From teaching many in
Atlanta through the Rich’s cooking school to teaching many nationally through her TV shows and cookbooks, Nathalie has made cooking
easy and approachable. Her easy-going and inviting style has given her
students the confidence to cook. And, her openness and willingness
to teach others in the industry have provided a great foundation and
opportunities for those who worked with her. She has many grateful
‘chickens’.”
Most notably, Nathalie is a generous teacher, dedicated mentor and
enthusiastic supporter. Atlanta Conference Co-chair Carolyn O’Neil
says,” Nathalie knows how to bring people together for a cause.
Whether it's helping a friend in need, a student needing inspiration
or a gathering of women to establish a new chapter of Les Dames
d'Escoffier, Nathalie is a leader building bridges to connect people with
projects. Her biscuits are pretty darn good too! There's a natural aura of
honesty and hospitality around Nathalie Dupree. Her relaxed elegance
is a quality easy to love, but not simple to emulate. Whether it's another
recipe, another cookbook, another television performance, another
speech or another friendship - Nathalie shares her enthusiasm for and
derives great joy from building something new.”
Because of her extraordinary and unique contributions to the culinary
field through innovation, education, and mentorship Nathalie Dupree is
truly worthy of the honorary title LDEI Grande Dame.
Nathalie with culinary students at The Art Institute of Charleston.
Nathalie's rolling pin collection.
Dining with the Charleston Dames.
8
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
The wonders of
Southern
Biscuits
By CiCi Williamson (Washington D.C.)
"Snap, snap, snap" is the motion to use when incorporating
shortening into flour to ensure a flaky biscuit, explained television chef Nathalie Dupree, author of the recently published
Southern Biscuits. “If you said ‘cut in the shortening,’ my husband would go get scissors,” she quipped.
Where does the “snap” come in? From your fingers, as Nathalie
demonstrated. apparently, you must get your hands in the dough
to make a great Southern biscuit. Someone said she was told to
use a pastry blender and not use your hands. Nathalie replied, "I
don't want to say you've been lied to, but you don't have to use
one. The dough gets stuck in the wires of the pastry blender, and
besides, you must feel the texture of the dough with your hands."
Southern flour? “White lily is like precious gold to us. Southern flour is lower in gluten and it makes tender biscuits. Our
Piggly Wiggly grocery chain has 15 types of flour available. In
addition to White lily, we use red Band, Southern Biscuit, and
Martha White. In a pinch, you can use cake flour. But don't use
King arthur flour for biscuits; it has too much gluten – better
for bread.” She has found that bleached is better than unbleached
flour for biscuits because they're more tender and come out
white.
today Nathalie is using only two ingredients to make a simple
biscuit recipe: self-rising flour and goat milk yogurt, because
that’s the kind she had in the refrigerator. yogurt has acid and
assumes the role of the buttermilk. “everyone keeps yogurt on
hand, but many people don't want to buy a quart of buttermilk
because they don't know what to do with what's left from making a batch of biscuits,” she believes.
“I’m showing easy biscuits because we want people to learn to
feel the dough. Go into your kitchen, lock the door, and practice
making biscuits. every biscuit is made by feel.” The generation
Nathalie really wants to learn biscuit making is teenagers. “Hey,
use Coca Cola or ginger ale for the liquid because that's what
college kids have around.”
Editor’s Note: CiCi shared additional tips from Nathalie: avoid
lowfat or nonfat yogurt in this recipe since it doesn’t contain
shortening; aerate the flour by stirring it with a whisk before
careful measuring and roll the moist, sticky dough out on a
flexible cutting board so it can be easily folded over. (When
baked, the biscuits will split nicely.) For tender biscuits, Nathalie
suggests arranging them close together in a small cake or pie pan.
and finally, to remove the sticky dough from your hands, rub
them in dry flour.
Visit www.ldei.org/ for a copy
of Nathalie's biscuit recipe. Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
Photo by Susan Slack
CiCi wrote about a biscuit-making demonstration that Nathalie
gave during a conference session for the Association of Food Journalists. This brief excerpt is sure to whet your appétit!
More info
online at
ldei.org
9
A blessing of
Herbs
By Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston)
The property surrounding the Charleston “Single House”
where Nathalie Dupree and husband Jack Bass live is an
edible landscape, designed with beauty and dining in mind.
Lush herbs and vibrant edible flowers are integrated into the
front yard, creating a warm, welcoming tapestry. The garden
thrives year-round in the temperate climate of the Lowcountry and is a living extension of
Nathalie’s Southern kitchen - the
heart of her home.
In a daily ritual, Nathalie visits
the garden to pick up the early
morning newspaper. She breathes
deeply and is “energized for the
day” by the intoxicating aromas
that surround her. She revels in the
fragrance of “fennel that runs riot,”
of marjoram’s snappy scent and of
the thyme that spills over planters
and creeps along the ground.
A spicy, aromatic bay tree resides
in the garden, along with two
olive trees that tower high above
the garden wall. Leafy banana trees, Meyer lemon trees and a
Thai lime tree with double-lobed, scented leaves flourish in a
side-garden that runs along the columned piazza (veranda).
The lovely space serves as an outdoor room.
Foliage and seasonal veggies co-exist peacefully with the
herbs and flowers. Nathalie she says her front yard may be
the only one in Charleston growing turnips. The charm of it
all makes you want to sit down on the piazza for a spell, and
enjoy the beauty of the surroundings.
In England, Nathalie tended herb gardens at cooking school
and later at her restaurants. “The Charleston garden is my
best attempt at growing and using herbs.” Her favorites include rosemary, mint, basil, parsley, lemon balm and cilantro.
She is particularly fond of the antebellum benne (sesame)
plants, with their historic association to Charleston cuisine.
Guests share her exuberance during garden tours, admiring
the plant’s fuzzy, okra-like pods that are filled with the seeds.
Nathalie claims she doesn’t have a green thumb but she likes
to harvest, pluck weeds and deadhead flowers. She says the
real “caretaker” is the young landscaper Jennifer, who is the
“life and soul” of the garden.
Nathalie has an artist’s knack for catching the eye by adding
touches of whimsy and humor throughout the garden. She
recycles colorful broken pottery and china pieces by incorporating them into the landscape. “Having dinnerware in our
edible garden seems rather appropriate, I think, and alludes
to happy meals ahead.” Nathalie explains.
Nathalie’s garden may be small, but the rewards are huge.
In her kitchen, she cultivates flavor by experimenting with
traditional and little-known edible plants and herbs. Her
passion for sharing, encouraging and inspiring cooks and
gardeners with new discoveries is exemplified in her legendary
recipes and books.
10
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
WE
Meaningful Blogs from Dames
An excerpt from the blog, Radically Simple Rozanne Gold’s World of Cooking.
An excerpt from the blog, Cocina Marie.
By roZanne Gold (New york)
By Marie H. SaBa (austin)
There is much chatter about women in the restaurant industry
or, rather, the lack of them. Since my early days as one of the few
women chefs in New york (late 1970's), this has been a subject
that rears its head every few years. Has the glass ceiling been
shattered? Have women earned a competitive place alongside their
male peers in upscale restaurants? Is it possible to differentiate
food created by women from that of men? It depends who you
ask, but swirling speculation and empirical evidence aside, this
year's James Beard awards showcased women in the brightest
of lights. a terrific article by Sumathi reddy in the Wall Street
Journal, posted moments after the awards, summed up the
"women wins": Gabrielle Hamilton, the chef of Prune (in New
york's east Village); Saipin Chutima of lotus Siam in las Vegas
(best chef Southwest), andrea reusing of lantern in Chapel Hill,
North Carolina (best chef Southeast), angela Pinkerton of eleven
Madison Park in New york City (outstanding pastry chef ), and
in the wine category, Belinda Chang of Danny Meyer's Modern
(outstanding wine service).
But a perusal of all the restaurant and chef categories at the awards
shows some statistical shortcomings. Out of five choices in each
category, there was only one woman, Barbara lynch of Menton
in Boston, who was a nominee for Best New restaurant. One
woman, Suzanne Goin of lucques in los angeles, for Outstanding
Chef award, one woman as rising Star Chef -- Christina tosi of
Momofuku Milk Bar, and, out of 50 nominees for regional best
chefs, there were only six women* represented. and true to the
industry's norm, there were three women out of five nominated for
Outstanding Pastry Chef award. Many more women (including
me) were represented at the media and book awards and there
were lots of women "guest chefs" cooking for the receptions. and
there were wonderful women chefs on stage, including traci des
Jardins and Susan Feninger, and major kudos to Emily Luchetti
who organized the entire outstanding event. as past president and a
member (for three decades!) of Les Dames d'Escoffier, I can faithfully
say that we've come a long way yet still have a long way to go. But
first we must continue to celebrate the industry's extraordinary
women -- for our contributions are womanfold.
I’m a member of the austin chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier. a
women in our local chapter, Pamela Nevarez-Fischer, set up an
arrangement with Whole Foods Market that works like this: every
Saturday morning, two Dames go to Whole Foods to pick up
day-old produce and bakery items. We load that into our cars for
transport to the kitchens at Caritas downtown and the university
united Methodist Church, on campus. The kitchens incorporate
that food into the daily meals provided to the hungry and
homeless. I signed up several months ago to be one of the runners
this weekend.
at the church kitchen, I met lloyd. although I’m not sure of
his official title, lloyd was clearly the executive chef … and was
also handling grill, pantry, and pastry. amazingly, everything
was running smoothly. even more amazing, despite his limited
resources, lloyd was completely over the moon about every dish
he cooked. My favorite was the one he called the “I Don’t Know”
Salad. When we asked about the name, he said: “Well I don’t know
what you are going to bring me, so I don’t know what is going to go
in it.” ”See?” he said with a laugh. “I Don’t Know.”
What I love about lloyd’s approach is that he is so accepting
of uncertainty. Shouldn’t we all be this way? Shouldn’t we all know
by now that the only certainty in life is uncertainty?
I’ll admit that I have sort of a love-hate relationship with the
unknown. On the one hand, uncertainty about the future is what
makes dreaming possible. It’s what made me lie awake at night
when John and I were dating, and dream that we would someday
get married. It’s also what makes me hope every day that I will have
an opportunity to host another cooking show and write another
cookbook.
But then, that same uncertainty can be utterly unnerving in other
contexts. like when my son Jack was in intensive care shortly after he
was born, and I was nearly paralyzed by my fear about the future.
What does one do to live with this uncertainty? (What do you
do?) My resolution this week is to be more like lloyd. Sure, I’ll
keep setting my alarm clock and making my to-do lists. But if I can
just keep lloyd in mind, maybe I’ll finally learn to really embrace
what I don’t know.
rozanne’s website can be found at:
http://rozannegold.wordpress.com
Marie’s website can be found at:
http://cocinamarie.wordpress.com/
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
11
DFV Wines is
proud to introduce ...
Crafted by Tradition
and Inspired by
Life: Dame Cheryl
Indelicato Launches
Portfolio of Wines
Every family has them: the
traditions and memories
that are passed down from
generation to generation.
HandCraft is the warm
remembrance of one family’s
winemaking heritage and
their belief that sometimes
the most valuable things in
life are the ones you craft by
hand, with love.
12
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
LDEI Ad 2010.pdf
HandCraFt
H
HandCraft celebrates the California
home and Italian heritage of the Indelicato
family, passed down through the years.
representing her family’s third generation in
winemaking, Cheryl Indelicato (Monterey)
gives classic grapes such as Chardonnay
and Cabernet Sauvignon her own personal
touch, adding a dash of Italian varietals as
a nod to the traditional, vineyard-to-barrel
field selections that were a mainstay at the
Indelicato’s family table.
When Cheryl’s grandfather, Gasparé
Indelicato, planted his family’s first american
vineyard in 1924, he brought with him the
home winemaking tradition taught to him
by his father back in Campobello, Italy. He
also brought an appreciation of the important
things in life. “When my grandfather came
to this country, all he knew how to do was to
live off the land,” says Cheryl. “The family
gave each other values, not things: a strong
work ethic, honesty, a love for the land and
for sharing fresh, simple meals together.”
Birthdays might include a cake—the only
time they ever had cake,” says Cheryl, “and a
toy whittled from wood.”
today, Cheryl and her family carry on those
values. She teaches her son, Dominick, the
same family recipes and fresh approach to
cooking that her aunts Mary and Francy
taught her. “I’ll ask Dominick, ‘What’s for
dinner?’ and he answers, ‘let’s go to the
garden and find out!’” she says with a smile.
Dominick has started a tradition of his own:
a personal Christmas tree, decorated head to
toe with his handmade ornaments. Cheryl
has saved them all, in their macaroni and
tinsel glory, writing the year on each one so
that Dominick can hand them down to his
own children someday. “Family traditions are
especially important to me—that’s what I like
to keep close to heart,” she shares.
Just like the HandCraft wines she
creates, proprietor Cheryl Indelicato’ s life
reflects a joyful meeting of her inspiring,
bounteous California home and her
cherished Italian heritage.
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
as part of one of California’s oldest
winemaking families, Cheryl has been in the
wine industry since she was a little girl, doing
odd jobs at the winery and in the vineyards
with her siblings and cousins. today, that
group of hard working kids represents the
current leadership of DFV Wines: the third
generation of the family-owned and operated
vineyards and wineries.
Originally built on the hard work of
patriarch Gasparé Indelicato, the company
went from farming grapes to making its first
vintage of wine in 1935 after Prohibition
ended. “We have such a strong family
tradition with wine, and that’s important
to me,” Cheryl explains. “My grandfather,
Gasparé, learned winemaking from his father.
and my Dad and his brothers learned it
from Gasparé. I knew I would work toward
continuing that legacy.” This year, Delicato
Family Vineyards is celebrating over 75 years
of family winemaking.
although Cheryl grew up working at
the winery, her parents insisted that all of
“Generation Three” graduate from college
and gather outside experience by working
elsewhere for at least three years before
coming back to the family business. taking
this sage advice, she earned a Bachelor of arts
Degree in Business in 1989 from California
State university, Stanislaus and a registered
Nursing degree in 1985.
today, Cheryl serves as President of
Monterey County Vintners & Growers
association (2009 – present), Director of the
Wine Institute, Monterey Bay and is Director
of Hospitality at the family’s San Bernabe
Vineyard hospitality center. On any given
day, one can find Cheryl drizzling olive oil
on garden fresh grilled zucchini for afternoon
guests, hosting journalists on behalf of the
Monterey Vintners & Growers, leading a
visitors’ tour or entertaining DFV Wines’
trade guests. Cheryl’s day is not complete
until lunch or dinner is served, graced with
the personal touch of her creativity and
culinary talent.
Cheryl lives in beautiful Monterey,
California with her husband Claude Hoover
and son Dominick, where they tend a fruit
grove and an organic garden brimming
with several types of potatoes, big and
small tomatoes, zucchini, strawberries and
more. Watching her son put his own spin
on a favorite Italian dish, Cheryl knows her
family’s traditions continue—and nothing
could make her more proud.
1
9/22/10
2:17 PM
premium wines
sourced
from california’s
best growing
regions
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
fa m ily
s u s ta in a bility
qu a l i ty
dfvwines.com
13
LDEI Board
of Directors
Meet in St. Louis
By Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston)
ABOVE LEFT TO RIGHT: 2011 President
Sandy Hu leads the board in discussion. St. Louis confection specialties - a
chocolate gateway arch and gooey butter
cakes. Kathy Gottsacker shares her
chapter's vision for the 2012 conference.
Treasurer Kathleen Perry.. The board
examines the mission of LDEI.
Photos by Susan Slack
The summer meeting of the 2011 Board of Directors was
held July 29-31 in St. Louis, a city often referred to as The
Gateway to the West. Dames gathered at the Ritz-Carlton
Hotel in the heart of the city’s bustling Clayton business
district. After calling the meeting to order, President Sandy
Hu led a structured discussion on LDEI business and
offered guidance in designing strategies and meeting goals
for the remainder of the year.
She steered the board through initial planning for the
2012 annual meeting in St. Louis. Representing the host
chapter, Kathy Gottsacker showcased the city through
an excellent presentation that included information
packets. With the assistance of Kathy and Maria GomezLaurens of HelmsBriscoe, the board was able to forge the
basic requirements of next year’s conference, including
the theme. The Annual Conference Planning Committee
consists of the board of directors, representatives from the
host chapter and other LDEI organizational parties.
The Friday dinner venue was Monarch, a celebrated
restaurant serving modern American cuisine. Louisianaborn Chef Josh Galliano, a James Beard award nominee,
14
created a “Southern inspired” menu that included gumbo,
spinach salad with corn-fried oysters, shrimp & grits, fried
green tomatoes and New Orleans bread pudding, - one of
several desserts. Dinner was served in the impressive Skybox,
overlooking the large, attractive kitchen.
On Saturday evening, Dames and their guests dined
at the highly acclaimed restaurant, The Crossing, which
specializes in new American cuisine with a “crossing” of
French and Italian influences. Dinner included ramekins
of addictive blue cheese soufflé appetizer with crisp toasts,
tagliatelle with beef ragu, porcini marinated Texas quail
and Berkshire porchetta. Chef/owner Jim Fiala gained
kitchen experience at nationally renowned places
like Chicago's Spiaggia and New York's
Daniel. The evening was
stunning from start
to finish.
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
MONARCH
THE CROSSING
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1. Fish course at Monarch. 2. Mary Ellen Griffin and Janet Burgess.
3. Sandy Hu and Greg Jewell with a background view of Monarch's kitchen.
4. Monarch's creative granola- sorbet dessert. 5. Dames Marie Gomez-Laurens
and Sharon Van Meter.
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
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4
5
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1. The Crossing menu. 2. L-R Teresa Farney, St. Louis Conference Co-chair Beth Huch and Sharon Van
Meter. 3. Greg Jewell, Mary Moore and Lori Willis. 4. St. Louis Chapter Vice President Judith Bello
and Kathy Gottsacker. 5. Brenda McDowell and Dottie Koteski. 6. Beet Salad with goat cheese and
mascarpone
15
London Dames
Host the Great
Kitchen Clear-Out
1
By Susan Carter (London)
On Sunday, September 25, the newest chapter of LDEI
held its first major fundraising event, The Great Kitchen
Clear-Out, at Westminster Kingsway Collage in London.
The brainchild of President Valentina Harris, The Great
Kitchen Clear-Out brought together cooks from all walks,
from amateur to professional, as they donated unwanted,
various kitchen bits and bobs to a Bring and Buy sale with
a difference. For an entry fee of * £1, donors and attendees
were able to rummage through a treasure trove of gently
loved pots and pans, china and glassware, fondue sets
and breadmakers, books and accessories – all at bargain
basement prices.
During the successful event, refreshments were available.
In an associated on-line auction, renowned celebrity chefs
donated items that were auctioned on-line at eBay starting
Sunday, September 18. Items not sold were offered again
through eBay starting in mid-November.
Proceeds from the fundraiser will support Action Against
Hunger UK and Les Dames d’Escoffier London’s first
scholarship, the Kate Ray Memorial Bursary for Patisserie.*
2
Editor’s Note: The exchange rate is currently USD 1.61225.
1 Hunting for a bargain. 2 A break for a cuppa! 3 L-R The Action Against
Hunger girls Lauren and Becky. 4 Viewing the celebrity chef donations. 5 L-R
London Dames Jacqui Pickles and Sue Carter. 6 Celebrity baker Edd Kimber
checks out the tables.
Photos by Yael Rose
3
16
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Kate Ray
*In honor of the late Kate Ray,
Les Dames d’Escoffier London
have designated that a bursary
be established in her name, for
financial assistance of qualified
students wishing to complete
an accredited Patisserie course.”
4
5
6
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
A native New Zealander, Kate
came to the UK in the early
‘80s. She decided to take a
three-month cookery course
with Lyn Hall at La Petite Cuisine
in Richmond and graduated as
the top student. An introduction
to the Roux Brothers led to a job
and she worked with Albert at Le
Gavroche; she replaced Rowley
Leigh (now of Cafe Anglais)
when he took a break and
ultimately became the Head
Chef of the Roux Patisserie. In a
world dominated very much by
men at that time, her devotion
to the task in hand and her
attention to detail in everything
she undertook, made her a
shining example to all around
her.
Besides her heavy workload,
she would take on commissions
for special cakes (Prince
Charles’ birthday cake) or
exhibition pieces made in
marzipan – the design and
detail in all of these were
outstanding. Displayed at the
Waterside Inn for many years,
was a piece she made of Albert
and Michel Roux sitting together
at a table – they were such
good images of the brothers –
right down to Albert’s specs on
the end of his nose!
Kate returned to New Zealand
in the late ‘80s and set up a
successful dessert company
supplying restaurants and
airlines. She died in January,
2011 having battled cancer for
many years but is remembered
fondly and with admiration by
all those who worked besides
her in the culinary profession.
www.kikkomanusa.com
CheCk out the
Kikkoman’s Kitchen Page
17
Photo by Susan Slack
2
1
Charleston's Autumn Affair:
A Celebration of Wine and Artisan Food
By Paige Crone with Susan Slack
It was a picture perfect fall evening on the banks of the Ashley
River at the historic Lowndes Grove Plantation in Charleston,
South Carolina. Although it wasn’t the first fundraiser for the
Charleston Chapter Dames, it was our first one celebrating
local artisanal foods and fabulous wines set against this perfect
backdrop. Imagine driving up to this majestic plantation home on the
water, with the sun setting, crisp air invigorating, and the
College of Charleston rowing team chasing the setting sun back
and forth along the riverbank. The wine glasses are perfectly
lined up, inviting each guest to adopt one for the evening…
As guests arrived at this magnificent venue, Grande Dame
Nathalie Dupree was on hand to warmly greet them. Her
newest award-winning cookbook was stacked with others
nearby, ready for the book signing. Vintners from all over the
country set up tables of fine wines to engage and educate guests
while pleasing their senses. Interspersed were bountiful tables
laden with samples and items for sale
from Charleston’s local growers, farmers
and bakers. Guests indulged in tastes
from Kennerty Farms (baby
veggies), Olindas Olives,
Callie’s Biscuits, The
Charleston Cookie
Company, Chai’s Restaurant (crab salad with squash terrine),
Celeste Albers’ The Green Grocer (made-to-order omelets from
farm fresh eggs), homemade gnocchi with fresh pesto, treats
from Jestine’s Sweet Shop and succulent shrimp straight from
Charleston waters served over stone-ground grits. Pure heaven! The silent auction benefitting LDEI scholarships boasted more
than fabulous donated packages. Guests bid on a catered party
at The Lowndes Grove Plantation River House, Dinner at Circa
1886, private cooking lessons with Nathalie Dupree, fine wines,
autographed cookbooks, original paintings and cookware. If you
had been there, you would instantly realize this was the start of a
very special Lowcountry tradition—one the Charleston Dames
will be proud to build on and one that the community will look
forward to every year. Committee members must often wear many hats. The hard
work and creativity of the Charleston Dames, plus their
generous donations, help make this a spectacular event.
Co-chairs: Jennifer Goldman and Debbie Marlowe
Planning Committee/Logistics: Susan Wigley,
Donna Gustafason, Celia Cerasoli; PR:
Paige Crone, Deidre Schipani, Teresa
Taylor, Marion Sullivan, Susan Slack
(website) and Sarah Graham (signs); Auction:
Patricia Agnew, Danielle Wecksler, Deidre
Schipani; Entertainment: Libba Osborne.
Photos by Paige Crone
18
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Photo by Susan Slack
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3
4
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Photo by Susan Slack
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Photo by Susan Slack
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1. Wine glasses at An Autumn Affair. 2. Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree with her husband Jack Bass. 3. Dame Carrie Bailey-Morey's company, Callie's Biscuits, makes the best you've ever
eaten! 4. Beautiful tapas from Chai's. 5. Kennerty Farms garden-fresh baby veggies. 6. Guests sample the wines. 7. L-R Cynthia Corley, Deidre Schipani, Peg Moore and Charles Corley. 8.
Rick Widman and his wife, Linn Lesesne with Celia Cerasoli. 9. L-R Donna Gustafson, Cecilia Cerasoli, Susan Wigley. Susan Slack, Patricia Agnew, Anne Semmes. 10. Cooking with Les Dames
d'Escoffier…. 11. Jestines Sweet Shop satisfied everyone's sweet tooth. 12. L-R Jennifer Goldman and Debbie Marlowe. 13. L-R Dame Danielle Wecksler and auction guest. 14. L-R Paige
Crone, Patricia Agnew and Nathalie Dupree. fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
19
D.C. Dames savor
French
potluck dinner
By CiCi Williamson
Herbes-de-Provence and the earthy essence of French Champagne
perfumed the air as more than 30 Dames cooked French recipes
and popped bubbly at the expansive Potomac, Maryland home of
Jodi Lehr on July 21. It was Vive La France! Manger a la Francais
(“Eat French”) as mounds of Dame-made dishes vanished from the
heavily ladened buffet tables.
It can't be only moi who thinks the best events are when Dames
cook! Everyone feasted on gougeres, chicken liver parfait, wild
mushroom paté, roasted ratatouille, chicken tarragon, French
cookies and cheeses, mousse au chocolat, fresh berries with Cointreau
whipped cream, and much more.
The highlight wasn't even the food but a personal, 30-minute talk
by charter member Carol Cutler, who lived in Paris for 12 years
with her journalist husband B.J. She began her talk with their three
years in Moscow where they were introduced to diplomatic dinners,
receptions, and meeting dignitaries like ` Begum Aga Khan, and
Hollywood producer Mike Todd with actress Evelyn Keyes (preElizabeth Taylor).
B.J. next went to Paris as editor of the European edition of the
New York Herald Tribune. The couple lived on the impressivesounding Rue de la Renaissance - actually only one block long
- behind the Plaza Athenee Hotel. At parties they met Paulette
Godard, Audrey Hepburn, and author James Jones.
Cooking on a 3-burner stove, Carol produced fancy dinner parties
for as many as 22 guests. Ladies' dessert plates came with small
floral bouquets, a bonus of the inexpensive flowers that filled the
apartment..
Some Dames attending the potluck dinner dressed in French style,
and Carol brought some couture sample clothes purchased from
nearby Givenchy, Dior, and Balenciaga. It helped that Carol wears
a model size.
B.J. brought Carol a copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking
for review. She recognized its importance and produced excerpts
for the Trib's ladies' pages. In the process she met Simca Beck,
Louisette Bertholle, and Julia Child who later remarked to Carol
"Weren't we lucky to have lived in Paris then?" Indeed.
20
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
1
2
3
1. D.C. Dames gather for a French potluck dinner. 2. Katherine Tallmadge (left) organized the D.C. Chapter's French Potluck Dinner at the home of Jodi Lehr (right) shown with chapter president
Katherine Newell Smith and Carol Cutler, who did a talk about her years living in Paris. 3. Dames Paula Jacobson, Sheilah Kaufman, Goody Solomon and Laurie Weber.
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
21
GLOBAL
CULINARY
post card
“Embracing our global communities
through culinary connections
that will provide educational
programming, training programs
and cultural exchange.”
Chicago
Dames Enjoy
a Taste of
Mexico
at the atlanta conference, Veronica
Hastings (Chicago), Cybil
Talley (atlanta), and Aliza Green
(Philadelphia) reported on their chapter’s
involvement with the Global Culinary
Initiative. Toria Emas (Chicago) says her
chapter has an ongoing global initiative
due to her city’s diverse neighborhoods.
So far, they have explored asian (argyle),
Mexican (Pilsen) and Indian (Devon)
neighborhoods with cross cultural
exchanges. learn more about the Global
Culinary Initiative in the upcoming
2012, Winter conference issue.
in (C h ic a g o )
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Ladies at work making corn tortillas at the Sabina Tortillaria. L-R: Panel discussion included Chicago Dames Elaine Gonzalez, Judith Dunbar Hines (moderator and tour guide)
and Maria Concannon. Above: Chicago Dames admired this painting at the National Museum of Mexican Art, where they enjoyed lunch and the panel discussion.
22
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
COMPILED BY
Chandra Ram (Chicago)
B O S tO N
CHICaGO
Lucille Giovino
The scenario: four chefs, three courses, one
chance to win. The challenge: to create an
unforgettable meal from ingredients in a
mystery basket before time runs out! Denise
Baron Herrera, culinary director at Boston’s
Burtons Grill, competed with three male chefs
in the Food Network Show Chopped. The first
mystery basket contained quahogs, persimmons,
Denise Baron-Herrera
Italian bitters and nopales. In twenty minutes
Denise concocted her version of out of the shell
clams casino with julienned persimmons and nopales sprinkled with
Italian bitters vinaigrette, which was a home run with the judges. In
round two, the basket included halibut, purple cauliflower, salted
duck yolks and pork skin. Denise turned to asian flavors, making an
asian marinated halibut with sautéed purple cauliflower and crispy
pork skin. The judges liked the egg yolk emulsified into the soy
sauce and were surprised that it worked so well. The dessert basket
consisted of Mexican chocolate, mostarda, tofu and pretzel rods.
She made a strawberry mousse with mostarda and chocolate-covered
pretzel rods. The judges liked the addition of the mostarda, which
lent a creamy texture to the tofu. It was a very close competition
and even though she was not the winner, she proved that she can
“measure up to a lot of other chefs out there.” Kudos to Denise, she’s
a true winner
in our hearts.
Photo by Tom Fitzsimmons
What is
the ultimate
birthday gift
one could
possibly hope
for? Perhaps
it would be
a ticket to a
presidential
fundraiser,
President Barack Obama and Boston Dame Ana Costa.
which was
precisely what
Ana Costa received for her 92nd birthday gift from her son, Manny
Costa. together, they attended an elegant, tented dinner party for
100 guests at a Chestnut Hill estate with President Obama as he
swung through Massachusetts in late spring. Certainly, this will be a
cherished memory.
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
Eleanor Hanson
Wind, rain, and floods may have plagued Chicago’s summer of 2011,
but the evening of July 26 was ideal. a capacity gathering of members
and guests enjoyed a perfect night hosted by rick and Deann Bayless
in their enviable city garden. Sipping blue agave and cucumber margaritas and enjoying luscious guacamole, we toured the gardens that are an
extension of the Bayless’ north side Chicago home. Featuring containers,
arbors, trellises, small plots and vertical planting, the limited location
beautifully commingles fruits, flowers, vegetables and herbs while maintaining organic gardening methods. Their horticulturist and gardeners,
Bill Shores and anna timmerman, pointed out the many ways a productive but attractive garden can be integrated into a very limited space. a
number of the crops are used at the Bayless’ restaurants. after our tour,
we enjoyed specialties from rick and Deann including shrimp mojo de
ajo on a jicama chip, sopes with shredded Kilgus goat in red chile, chilito
celleno with pork picadillo and frontera ceviche. The evening’s finale
featured Klug Farm apricot tartaleta with hoja santa, mini churros, iced
Mexican chocolate with Cherokee mint and a lovely warm breeze.
MIaMI
Elizabeth Smith
On april 10, the Miami Chapter’s chef, farmer and hospitality members presented their third annual tropical Brunch in the redland, at picturesque Schnebly Winery, North america’s southernmost winery and a
popular destination in Miami's historic agricultural district. The sold-out
al fresco feast attracted more than 300 attendees and featured a bounty
of artfully prepared, locally grown fruits and vegetables, farm-fresh eggs,
fruit breads and pastries, pastured meats and ethnic specialties associated
with the diverse region -- created by Dames and served by volunteer le
Cordon Bleu students. Guests washed down the delectable brunch with
Passion Fruit bubbly and still wines donated by Schnebly, along with
traditional varietals provided by national sponsors Gnarly Head Cellars,
Irony Wines, Ivan tamas and Wente Family estate. Shaded tables, an
idyllic april day and the ambiance of lush tropical gardens, waterfalls,
ponds and nearby fruit orchards set a lovely stage. a hotly contested silent auction comprised of lavish epicurean and luxury offerings inspired
lively bidding and added $5,500 the record-breaking gross of $15,500 (a
50 percent increase over 2010). The afternoon's festivities also included
lDeI Miami scholarship presentations to three le Cordon Bleu culinary students and recognition of retiring South Miami K-8 teacher Pat
Kuentzel for her outstanding achievements in the classroom and school
garden. Proceeds from the tropical Brunch in The redland will benefit
a host of community projects that help preserve South Florida’s rich
agricultural heritage, foster better childhood nutrition and fund culinary
and agriculture scholarships.
23
N e W yO r K C I t y
Patricia Cobe & Melanie Young, president
at a gala reception July 13, the New york Chapter awarded Make a
Difference Scholarships totaling nearly $50,000 to 20 exceptional young
women pursuing degrees in the culinary arts, food studies, nutrition,
fine beverage and hospitality fields. Contributions of $28,000 were from
in-kind partnerships with leading New york schools including the Culinary Institute of america, Nyu, The French Culinary Institute Institute
of Culinary education, NyC tech, Brooklyn College and International
Wine Center; the balance was either lDNy membership- or corporatesponsored. The reception—generously underwritten by the (Dame)
Barbara and Donald tober Foundation—was held in Manhattan’s astor
Center, with food by Diane Gordon Catering and wines from argentina and Chile were donated by Nora Fevelukes. The lDNy Scholarship
Committee is chaired by Margaret Happel.
2011 LDNY scholarship recipients with President Melanie Young and Scholarship Co-chair Margaret
Happel Perry.
The 2011 scholarship recipients are:
• Lauren Giambrone, Culinary Institute of America
• Therese Savory-Connors, NYC Tech
• Ola Omran, Brooklyn College
• Stephanie Rogus, NYU
• Gabrielle Fuoco, Culinary Institute of America
• Amy Yao, Cornell
• Josephine Ledda, NYU
• Paula De Oliveira, NYC Tech
• Mai Ling, Institute of Culinary Education
• Laura Corrigan, International Wine Center
• Jennifer Zhou, Kingsborough College
• Yonette Williams, Kingsborough College
In-Kind Scholarships were awarded to:
Culinary Institute of America
• Audrey McLeod
• Meredith Walter
Denisse Schnebly & Sandie Witmer
Carole Kotkin & Marsha Talianoff
Roxana Garciga & Leticia de Mello Bueno
The French Culinary Institute
• Lauren Schoch
• Julie Ruggirella
Anne Marie Coral, Ariana Kumpis & Jackie Sayet
Susan Weinstein
24
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Institute of Culinary Education
• Malinda Haslett
• Pamela Vachon
• Christina Ha
International Wine Center
• Cecilia Gadea
For a story on FCI scholarship recipient Julie ruggirello, go to: http://
www.theexaminernews.com/archives/westchester/West.examiner8-9-11.
pdf. The feature ran in Julie’s hometown paper, The examiner News,
and shows lDNy’s philanthropic work in action.
For photos of the 2011 lDNy Scholarship event, go to: http://tinyurl.
com/3qxk482
S a N a N tO N I O
Linda Triesch, Corresponding Secretary
Diana Barrios Trevino, VP of programs, organized a great educational behind the scenes tour of the family-owned river City wholesale
produce company on april 27. The tour ended with dinner at rosario’s
restaurant, hosted by prospective new member Lisa Wong. She has a
unique, wine cellar-like room where the food was delicious and it made
for a fun, relaxing evening. On June 20, Aliza Green, president of the
Philadelphia Chapter, presented a fabulous seminar to local Dames and
the public, titled “unusual Herbs & Spices.” The art Institute of San
antonio culinary program prepared the samples for the 60 attendees.
We enjoyed spotlighting the skills of our national member and plan
to have more events featuring local and international members. Our
bi-annual business meeting was held June 28 at the beautiful new home
of Pat Mozersky. She had a wonderful Mediterranean inspired buffet
dinner in her to-die-for kitchen, featured in the summer issue of San
antonio taste magazine. We awarded and honored four scholarship
recipients, totaling $7500. Membership approved $7400 for our Green
tables initiatives and $5000 for equipment and scholarships for St. Philips’s culinary program. We voted in six new members and approved the
new slate of officers for the 2011-2012 year. Chapter President Di-Anna
Arias gave each member a vintage apron from her collection and read a
tribute to her grandmother titled "apron Strings" to start the meeting.
Stay tuned for a tuscan dinner at the Olive Orchard.
Di-Anna Arias gave each member a vintage apron from her collection and read a tribute to her
grandmother entitled "Apron Strings." Top Row: June Hayes, Christine Kelly, Nancy Fitch, Linda
Triesch, Kathy Shearer, Leslie Horne, Karen Haram, Judy Smith, Susan Johnson, Lucille Hooker and
Bettie Lee Wilson Front: Pat Mozersky and Di-Anna Arias
Lucille Hooker in New york City pictured with Chef Jean-George of Jean-George's five star
restaurant. He is a huge supporter of LDEI and our mission.
The Viola Barrios Scholarship-Dame Marty Gonzalez, Diana Barrios Trevino and recipient Marnie
Lawson.
Linda Triesch, Chef Justin Sparkman (Culinary Educator San Antonio Art Institute), Aliza Green (Art
Institute Culinary Educator) and Di-Anna Arias.
Marty Gonzalez, recipient Ileana Chapa and Ana Martinez.
Marty Gonzalez, and recipient Cressida Elizabeth Golob.
Mediterranean buffet in Pat's dream kitchen. Visable Dames are Judy Smith, Rollie Blackwell with
guest Margery Miller, Bettie Lee Wilson and May Kaye Sawyer-Morse.
L-R: Leslie Horne, Marty Gonzalez, plus other Dames and spouses at Rosario's.
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
25
S e at t l e
Braiden Rex-Johnson, president
The Seattle Chapter’s april program, "eat My Words," featured three
members who published books in the past year. Panelists included the
meeting’s host, Lisa Dupar, Seattle caterer and author of Fried Chicken
& Champagne: a romp Through the Kitchen at Pomegranate Bistro,
Katherine Kehrli with her Celebrated Chefs cookbook, and Cynthia
Nims, whose most recent book is Gourmet Game Night. In late May,
25 Dames gathered at urBaN enoteca to hear four women trailblazers
in the world of Washington wines. Panelists included Patricia Gelles,
owner of world-renowned Klipsun Vineyards; Kay Simon, winemaker
and co-owner of Chinook Wines; Susan Neel, an owner and marketing
director of McCrea Cellars; and Danielle Custer, director of taSte
restaurant at the Seattle art Museum, who makes wine for the restaurant. at the Seattle Chapter’s June meeting at Seattle Culinary academy
(SCa) at Seattle Central Community College, 24 Dames learned about
the huge impact that their fundraising efforts have made in the lives of
more than 60 women in Washington State. Catherine Hazen, scholarship chair, announced that lDeS will have disbursed $425,000 by
year’s end. Leslie Mackie, Green tables Chair, shared photos of school
gardens (and happy kids!) made possible by four lDeS grants to local
schools and gardening organizations. attendees enjoyed a farm-to-table
buffet prepared by caterer Kelley leek, an SCa graduate and recipient
of an lDeS scholarship. Linda Chauncey and Seattle Dames raised
a toast to Seattle Central Community College’s Plant Science lab and
Greenhouse, which was built, thanks in part, to a $50,000 grant from
lDeS. They also toasted Joy Gulmon-Huri's 40th anniversary as Program Director at SCCC. In early July, Seattle Dames enjoyed the second
annual Family and Friends Barbecue. an impressive 38 adults and seven
children gathered around the portable smoker at the Seattle yacht Club
on elliott Bay Marina for sliced-to-order meats, baked beans, salads,
and cornbread from Jasper’s Smokehouse. The children played croquet
and twister, while the adults sipped wine and Pike Place microbrews
donated by Rose Ann Finkel. The crowd made short work of the gelato
cups provided by Maria Coassin, owner of Gelatiamo Gelateria-Pasticceria-Caffè.
L-R: Dames Kay Simon, Danielle Custer, Patricia Gelles, and Susan Neel spoke at the “Our Women in
Wine” meeting at URBAN enoteca in May.
L-R: Beverly Gruber and scholarship recipient Andrea Flowers at the Seattle Chapter’s Family and
Friends Barbecue.
L-R: Linda Chauncey, Beverly Gruber, Jane Morimoto, Catherine Hazen, Martha Marino and Braiden
Rex-Johnson point to a plaque commemorating the $50,000 gift Seattle Dames gave to Central
Community College for the Plant Science Lab and Greenhouse.
L-R: Dame Martha Marino, scholarship recipient Kelley Leek, Catherine Hazen, scholarship recipient
Beth Mattiessen, Linda Chauncey, Joy Gulmon-Huri, and Leslie Mackie at Seattle’s Focus on Our
Philanthropy meeting in June.
L-R: In July, Deba Wegner and husband Scott Wonder gather around the outdoor portable smoker at
the Seattle Yacht Club.
L-R: In July, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Martha Marino, and Beverly Gruber donned their Atlanta t-shirts
at Seattle’s Family and Friends Barbecue in anticipation of the annual conference in November.
In August, the Seattle Chapter’s Board of Directors gather around the table in Vito’s Cougar Room.
26
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
PHILADELPHIA
Deanna Segrave-Daly, in collaboration with
fellow dietitians regan Jones and Serena Ball,
launched an online recipe rally called The Recipe
ReDux based on the concept that every healthy
recipe deserves to be delicious. On the 21st of
every month, healthy food bloggers from around
the globe post a unique recipe based on a set
theme. http://professionalpalate.squarespace.
com/thereciperedux/
Deanna Segrave-Daly
SEATTLE
Cynthia Nims was named International association of Culinary
Professionals (IaCP) President of the Board
of Directors, a one-year term, at the annual
Conference, austin, texas, June 2011. Cynthia
served five years on the IaCP board.
COMPILED BY
Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii)
Lisa Dupar, top Seattle caterer and owner
of Pomegranate Bistro, won the 2011 Julia
Child First Book award from the International
association of Culinary Professionals (IaCP)
for her book Fried Chicken & Champagne: A
Romp Through the Kitchen at Pomegranate Bistro.
The cookbook showcases the whimsical mix of
Dupar’s classical culinary training with her strong
southern roots.
BOSTON
Mary Ann Esposito, PBS host of "Ciao Italia",
completed her 22nd national broadcast season. Her
new book, Ciao Italia Family Classics (200 recipes
from Three Generations of Italian Cooks) will be
published this fall by St. Martins Press, New york.
www.ciaoitalia.com
Mary Ann Esposito
DALLAS
Renie Steves was one of three american judges
at the 2011 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles,
luxembourg, May 6-8. She joined 260 wine and
24 spirits tasters collectively tasting 7,386 wines and
spirits from 49 producer countries; awarding 2,150
medals.
Renie Steves
Rozanne Gold
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
Lisa Dupar
Jamie Peha is the new owner of the Seattle Wine
and Food experience which features artisan
and specialty-food products, wine, and highend restaurants in Washington, Oregon, and
California. The fourth annual experience will
be held on February 26, 2012 and benefits the
Giving Grapes Foundation.
COLORADO
Carol Fenster's tenth gluten-free cookbook, 125
Mary Abbott Hess
Gluten-Free Vegetarian Recipes (avery/Penguin
Group, 2011) is designed for vegetarians, vegans,
flexitarians or anyone seeking to adopt a more plant-based diet. The
book also features a bonus section of vegan baking recipes.”
NEW YORK
Rozanne Gold was featured in the June 2011 issue
of Edible Manhattan. The seven-page article spanned
her career beginning at age 23 when she was chef
to New york Mayor ed Koch. Gold's newest book
Radically Simple (rodale) was nominated for a
James Beard award. Gold's new partners, Cookstr
and apple, have launched the successful new "1-2-3
Collection" cookbook(s) for the iPad.
Kathy Casey
Jerilyn Brusseau, founder of Peacetrees Vietnam
(PtV), was named one of four 2011 Women of Jamie Peha
Inspiration by The Seattle Storm, 2010 Women’s
National Basketball association (WNBa) champions. The purpose of
PtV is to promote friendship and healing with the people of Vietnam,
proving that even ordinary people can transform
the ravages of war into healing and lasting peace.
ST. LOUIS
Julia M. Usher published her second book,
Julia M. Usher’s Ultimate Cookies (Gibbs Smith,
November 2011), featuring 45 one-of-a-kind
cookie decorating projects and 300 color photos.
Her first book, Cookie Swap: Creative Treats to
Share Throughout the Year (2009), is currently
in its ninth printing. Find out more at www.
juliausher.com.
WASHINGTON, D.C.
Amy Riolo won the Nautilus Silver award for
her third cookbook, The Mediterranean Diabetes
Cookbook. riolo's fourth cookbook, The Cuisine
of Karabakh: Recipes, Memories, and Dining
Traditions from Azerbaijan's Cradle of Culture will
be released fall 2011.
Photo by Karen Forsythe
CHICAGO
Mary Abbott Hess, lHD, MS, rD, lD, FaDa
and Catharine Powers, MS, rD, book, Essentials
of Nutrition for Chefs, won the 2011 International
association of Culinary Professionals (IaCP) Cookbook awards, Health and Special Diets category at
the IaCP June annual meeting, austin, texas.
Kathy Casey completed the second season
of "Kathy Casey’s liquid Kitchen" cocktail
show. New episodes air every week on www.
smallscreennetwork.com.
Julia M. Usher
Amy Riolo
27
®
Green tables is thriving in lDeI chapters across
North america and our new london chapter is
already looking forward to establishing their Gt
program. 2011 Green tables projects vary widely
and reflect the vibrant character of unique lDeI
chapters. Partnership with other organizations
is a prominent theme across chapters.
This summer the Green tables website was integrated fully with the lDeI website, unifying the
look and feel. The archive section of the website
tells the stories of Green tables work in chapter
communities through summaries and
photographs. Go to the Green tables
tab on www.ldei.org and check out
the 2011 chapter updates.
More info
the atlanta Chapter hosted the online at
ldei.org
lDeI annual Conference in 2011,
and featured many aspects of their Green tables
program. The Green tables Breakfast served up
fine products from local farmers and artisans,
and the program introduced you to some true
southern characters. Many Dames stayed in
atlanta to experience afternoon in the Country,
the chapter fundraiser that is true to its Gt roots.
Watch for detailed Gt conference coverage in
the Winter 2012 Quarterly.
all in all, the state of Green tables is healthy and
strong, thanks to the many committed Dames
who repeatedly cite Green tables as one of the
most meaningful aspects of lDeI membership.
are you interested in Gt leadership at the
international level? Contact Gt Co-Chair
Barbara Petit at [email protected].
Dames at the Annual AFJ Conference
®
L-R: Attendees included Susan Slack and Nancie McDermott (both Charleston), Connie Hay (Washington, D.C.), Carol Haddix
(Chicago), Karen Haram (San Antonio), Nathalie Dupree and Lin Lesesne (both Charleston), Jane Milza (New York), CiCi
Williamson (Washington, D.C.), and Susan Nicholson (Atlanta). Attendees not pictured include Charleston Dames Teresa Taylor,
Deidre Schipani and Marion Sullivan.
1
-
8 8 8 - 7 0 8 - 2 2 2 2
www.sugar foods.com
the crunch you crave
28
Several Dames gathered in Charleston S.C.
in early October for the 2011 conference of
the association of Food Journalists. Teresa
Taylor, local food editor for The Post and
Courier, was the conference chairwoman for
the event. Carol Haddix and Karen Haram
won awards as well as Bonnie Benwick in the
Washington Post (for the best food section).
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
IN MeMOrIaM
Dame Kathleen Desmond Stang
(Seattle)
Kathleen Desmond Stang died tuesday, august
9, 2011, in Seattle after an extended illness. She
was born august 3, l942, in long Beach, California
and is survived by her loving husband, of 47 years,
Bob, as well as her five siblings and their families.
education and educating were strong components
in her life having earned her Ba and Ma in Home
economics at long Beach State College now CSulB,
and teaching in California, Brazil and later in Seattle.
Her career took a different turn when she joined
the staff of Pacific Kitchens, a division of evans
Food Group, now Publicis Dialog, where, under the
guidance of Jane Morimoto, test Kitchen VP, she developed recipes for agency
clients including Washington apples, alaska Seafood and California table Grapes.
armed with this experience and a honed talent for writing, she authored over 150
articles that were published in magazines and/or newspapers. She is best known for
her five cookbooks including, A Little Northwest Cookbook and Zucchini, Pumpkins
and Squash.
along with Alice Gautsch Foreman and Gretchen Mathers, she co-founded the
Seattle Chapter of les Dames d’escoffier. Prior to this, she was involved with the
D.C. Chapter during the time her husband held a temporary position in that city.
Kathleen was also active in other professional organizations.
the Seattle Chapter has honored Kathleen by naming its newest endowed culinary
scholarship at South Seattle Community College for her.
Photo by Kim Zumwalt
By alice Gautsch Foreman (Seattle)
Sasquatch Books is offering a special holiday
discount for the purchase of Cooking with Les Dames
D'Escoffier: At Home with the Women Who Shape the
Way We Eat and Drink, edited by Marcella Rosene with
Pat Mozersky. LDEI chapters can order the cookbooks
at 55 percent off the retail price. To order, contact
Sarah Hanson, [email protected] or
call 800-775-0817, extension 303. Prepayment is
with Visa, Mastercard, or check. Shipping and tax are
additional and the books are nonreturnable. Order
quickly; this offer expires 12/31/11.
The extraordinary keynote speech of,
2011 Atlanta conference speaker and
guest, CBS correspondent Martha Teichner
(Charleston) is available to read on the
LDEI website at www.ldei.org.
Fa l l Q u a rt e r ly 2 011
More info
online at
ldei.org
29
DEADLINES
WINTER QUARTERLY, 2012: NOVEMBER 15, 2011
SPRING QUARTERLY, 2012: JANUARY 15, 2012
PHOTOGRAPHY/IMAGES
Electronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi
(TIFF or JPEG). Do not send photos taken on cell phones, off the internet or embedded with text
in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals in photos from left to right in the message of
your e-mail. Include photo credits, if required, and captions. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME
WITH CAPTIONS TO BE PUBLISHED.
MEMBER MILESTONES
LIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 words about honors or
important business-related activities, as preferred, to appear in print. You may e-mail a quality
headshot to accompany your news. Press releases and cookbook covers are not accepted.
(Cookbook covers are accepted for the LDEI website.) E-mail your Member Milestone and photo
to MM Editor, Hayley Matson-Mathes at [email protected] by the deadline listed
above. Entries received after these dates may appear in a following issue. Photos of Dames
networking at conferences or other chapter events may also be sent to this section.
ural butter imported from Ireland.
For recipe ideas visit kerrygold.com/usa
CHAPTER NEWS
From Ireland’s
grass-fed cows
Free of
growth hormones
Comes pure,
unadulterated butter
Seductively creamy
And naturally golden
www.kerrygold.com/usa
CHAPTER XX (By, the submitter's name, office or title, if any). Each Chapter may submit 250
words as you would like to see it in print. You may include photos to accompany your news,
noting photography requirements above. Submissions that exceed the word count will be
edited. (A lengthy submission on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature;
contact the editor in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don't have space
to print full menus but menu items can be included in the copy. Submissions not conforming to
this format may not be printed due to deadlines and volunteer’s lack of time. E-mail to Chandra
Ram at [email protected] by the date listed above. Entries received after this date may
appear in the following issue.
E-NEWSLETTER
This bi-monthly publication will keep you informed about events in other chapters and
encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. Include an e-mail contact, date,
time, cost for chapter events. Lack of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing
of cooking classes or tours. You will receive a reminder “call for e-news” e-mail. Respond to
Helen Roberts at [email protected].
POSTCARD VIEWS OF THE GLOBAL CULINARY INITIATIVE
Chapters are actively involved with culinary programs and community activities
that cross cultural barriers. Submit a short description of your chapter’s activities
(up to 200 words and 3 quality photos), which embody the spirit of the new
Global Culinary Initiative. The “postcard” view of your chapter’s event will be
featured in an upcoming Quarterly. We are seeking a submission for the Fall
Quarterly. Send to [email protected].
uPCOMING
100% all natural butter imported from Ireland.
For recipe ideas visit kerrygold.com/usa
in the
winter
issue
30
Complete atlanta conference coverage
Les Dames d’Escoffier International
®
THE MARK OF
DISTINCTION
www.peterschocolate.com
877-835-4243
ATLANTA
AUSTIN
BOSTON
BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA
CHARLESTON
CHICAGO
CLEVELAND/NORTHEAST OHIO
COLORADO
DALLAS
HAWAII
HOUSTON
KANSAS CITY/HEART OF AMERICA
LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY
MIAMI
MINNEAPOLIS/ST. PAUL
MONTEREY BAY AREA
NEW YORK
NORTHEAST
PALM SPRINGS
PHILADELPHIA
PHOENIX
SAN ANTONIO
SAN DIEGO
SAN FRANCISCO
SEATTLE
ST. LOUIS
WASHINGTON, D.C.
LONDON
P.O. Box 4961
louisville, Ky 40204
PreSOrteD
FIrSt ClaSS
uS POStaGe
PaID
lOuISVIlle, Ky
PerMIt #1225
MEET ME IN
FALL
2012
By lori Willis (St. louis)
Ladies, on behalf of the St. Louis Chapter of
Les Dames d’Escoffier, the World Series baseball
Cardinals and the now infamous mascot Rally
Squirrel, we urge you to start making plans now
to be our guests at the Ritz Carlton in Clayton,
Missouri October 11 – 14, 2012. We can’t
guarantee another World Series win, but we can
guarantee fun, LDEI family and fabulous food!
October is one of the most magical times of
the year in St. Louis. The leaves are ablaze
and the air is crisp, cool and alive. Currently, we have sunny blue skies and daytime
temperatures in the '50s and '60s with lows of
about 47 degrees. Geared up now to welcome
thousands to Busch Stadium, the proverbial
red carpet is rolling across the region and
down to the riverfront. There with all of the
excitement and drama of downtown, lies the
pot of gold under the steel rainbow we call
the Gateway Arch.
reception! We’re also exploring tours of some
of our standout attractions such as AnheuserBusch, Missouri Botanical Garden and walking
tours of food communities like The Hill, where
chef Lydia Bastianich spent quality time on a
recent visit.
With a population of approximately 2.8 million, the St. Louis metropolitan area is known
for its rich history, hometown hospitality and
renowned food communities. Famous for its
1904 World’s Fair foods, steeped in fascinating
facts and fantasy, St. Louis' culinary legacy is
alive and well. And here’s a fact for you – we
are pleased to announce that our conference team just secured the famous World’s
Fair Pavilion at Forest Park for a special LDEI
St. Louisans today proudly and unapologetically
cling to the spirit of the past, celebrate the
present and embrace the future. All of that is
summed up in our conference theme, “Meet Me
in St. Louis,” which refers to the classic Judy
Garland movie and the song that dares, “Don’t
tell me the lights are shining anywhere but
there!” Well, we are looking forward to welcoming each of you to a fantastic time in St. Louis!
We will leave ALL the lights on for you.