Colonial Veterinary Hospital Kitten Pack

Colonial Veterinary Hospital
Kitten Pack
Table of Contents
Adding New Pets to an Existing Pet Family
Essential items for a New Kitten in the Home
Feline Vaccines
Kitten Vaccination Checklist
Wellness Exams
How to Prevent and Control Internal and External
Parasites and Reduce the Risk of Zoonotic and VectorBorne Disease
Symptoms Not to Ignore
Emergency Care for Cats and Dogs
10 Most Common Poisonous Plants
Creating a Poison Safe Home
Adding New Pets to an Existing Pet Family
Introducing New Pets to Your Existing Pets
Before you start introducing your new pet to other
pets make sure the new pet is healthy and up-to-date on
vaccinations. At first, keep the new pet and the other
pets separated while all of your pets are unsupervised.
Separate and isolate your new pet in a neutral space.
A neutral space is one that the other pets are not
particularly fond of, or where you give the other pets a
lot of attention (i.e. petting, praise).
Make sure to “pet-proof” your house. Remove items
that could harm your pet (or items you don’t want
broken) from the reach of your new curious pet. New
pets like to explore their new environment, and items
like electric sockets and antique vases are potentially
dangerous to new pets.
Introduce your new pet gradually. Let the other pets
investigate the new pet. However, make sure that there
isn’t any aggressive behavior between the new pet and
the other pets. If aggression does enter into this stage,
separate the animals and try again later in the day.
Do not reward aggressive behavior by telling your pet
its ok when there are signs of aggression.
Signs of aggression
 Staring
 Piloerection (lifting of the hair on one part of
the body i.e. neck or tail)
 Hissing
 Snarling
 Stalking
 Pouncing
 Growling or lip lifting
 Grabbing the new pet by the neck
Do reward good behavior such as the new pet and the
other pets sitting close to each other without problems.
Make sure that each pet, current or new, has 5 to 10
minutes of individual attention each day. This will
decrease the jealousy between pets.
Use restraints when introducing your new pet. Once all
of the pets are reacting positively to one another, the
restraints can be removed, and the pets can be left
unsupervised.
Make sure to provide extra water dishes, litter boxes,
toys, and beds while your pets are unsupervised to
minimize competition for items.
Essential items for a New Kitten in the Home
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Water bowl
Food bowl
High quality kitten food
Collar
Can opener ( if you plan on feeding canned food)
Litter box
Litter scoop
Cat litter
A brush or comb
Traveling carrier
Bedding
Cat toys
Kitty Climber
Handling your New Kitten
Some cats really enjoy being handled while others do
not. Make sure you always support their body. If holding
them in your arms, make sure the kitten is up against
your body and you can place the front paws in the crook
of your arm. If you would like to hold them to your
shoulder, place their paws on your shoulder and support
their bottom. If the kitten begins to struggle, gently put it
down, otherwise it could scratch or bite you.
Litter box training
When choosing a place for the kitten’s litter box,
make sure the area is a quiet spot. Never put the litter
box next to the boiler, for example, if the kitten is using
the litter box when the boiler suddenly turns on, may
scare the kitten and the kitten may never want to return
to this spot again to use the litter pan. The best type of
litter to use is unscented clumping litter and the best
litter box to use is the biggest litter box you can find with
NO cover.
When you first get your kitten home, place the
kitten in the box and gently grasp the kitten’s paw and
“scratch” the litter in the manner that the kitten would
bury the elimination. You can do this several times but
usually the kitten knows right away where to eliminate. If
the kitten does not use the litter box the first few times,
never punish the kitten by rubbing her nose in the
accident. Remember the kitten is still a baby and is
learning. If the kitten is consistently not using the litter
box, there may be a medical problem and you should
consult your veterinarian.
Follow these basic litter box management “rules” and
you will have the least amount of issues:
Litter Box Management:
 One box per cat plus one (i.e. 2 cats in house = 3 litter
boxes)
 Use unscented scoopable litter (cats prefer finegrained, unscented litters)
 Place boxes in multiple sites around the house
 Place boxes in quiet places away from heavy foot
traffic, noise, drafts and "safe" from the dog/other
animals
 Use the largest box you can find or plastic storage
containers -boxes should be about 1.5 times the size of
your cat from nose to tip of tail
 No covered litter boxes (odors are concentrated in
covered boxes)
 Clean/scoop pan daily
 Completely empty and scrub with soap/water once a
month or more
Getting your Cat into a Routine
Just like a dog, you can train your cat by establishing
a routine. When feeding your cat, call its name, and they
will soon learn to respond. Also, when feeding, make
sure to do it at the same time and location. If you have a
long haired cat, brush it at the same time every day. If
you have a short haired cat, brush at the same time once
a week. If your kitten is going to be an indoor cat, it is
highly recommended that you play with it at least 10-15
minutes per day. This will help you and your kitten bond
and get some of that energy out. Playtime will also help
prevent obesity when the cat is older. Most indoor cats
in the United States are prone to obesity due to
overfeeding and lack of exercise. It is also a good idea to
get your kitten a scratching post. This way the kitten will
not ruin your furniture and it is a healthy way to use up
excess energy. Place your kitten’s bed in a quiet spot so
they can get some shut eye out of the way of a busy
household. Your kitten may try to sleep in your bed at
night, if you don’t want this to happen, gently place your
kitten in its bed and close the door to the room that you
decide is your kittens. Make sure to have a litter box and
some water in the room as well.
Feeding your Kitten
When deciding on a food for your kitten and later on in
adulthood, you want to choose a high quality food. A
high quality food is essential to maintaining good health.
A high quality diet means less shedding, less waste and
less health problems. When looking for a high quality
food, make sure that the first three ingredients are a
protein source. If you would like suggestions please feel
free to give us a call or set up an appointment to speak
with a doctor. Deciding where to feed your kitten is
important too. Make sure the place you choose is a quiet
spot. A corner in the kitchen is a good place. Make sure
to keep the area clean and dry and cleaning the bowls on
a daily basis. If you have other animals fed them in
separate bowls and watch that the other animal is not
stealing the kitten’s food.
Clipping Nails
It’s best to get your kitten used to having its nails cut.
This way it’s less stressful for them as adults. You can
start by just playing with the kitten’s feet and letting
them sniff the clippers. You can also just clip one nail a
day to start so the kitten learns that nail clipping is not a
bad thing. Give the kitten a treat after you clip its nails.
This will reinforce that nail clipping is a pleasant
experience. To clip your kitten’s nails, hold the kitten
gently with one hand around the chest and hold the paw
with your other hand. Lightly press the paw the nails are
exposed. Use your clippers to take just the white part off
the nail. The pink part is called the quick and if you cut
into that, then your kitten will bleed. You can be cautious
and just take the tip off. If you feel that you cannot do
this, we would be happy to clip your kittens nail and give
you a demonstration.
Brushing Teeth
Getting your kitten used to having its teeth brushed
can save you money in the long run because they won’t
need dental work until they are older or if at all. The best
way to start getting your kitten use to having its teeth
brushed is to put the toothpaste on your finger and just
let the kitten lick it off like a treat. Do this a few times
then start rubbing the toothpaste on your pet’s gums
and teeth. If they don’t like this very much, go slow and
just start with the front teeth and work your way back to
the molars. Once your kitten is used to this put the
toothpaste on the toothbrush. Trying getting the smallest
one possible since your kitten has such a tiny mouth. Let
the kitten lick the toothpaste off the toothpaste. They
may even chew on the toothbrush a little. Start moving
the brush across their teeth. Once they are comfortable
with this you can start to brush their teeth. Start slowly
and work your way back to their molars. This process
does take time and some effort, but in the end it is worth
it. Oral health is very important to the overall health of
your kitten. One myth that should be debunked is that
dry food cleans kitten’s teeth. Although there are
prescription diets now available that do help with
cleaning, everyday kitten food does not. Think of it like
this, if we don’t brush our teeth, but only eat crackers do
you think your teeth would be clean and odor free? This
is true for kittens and cats. The best thing is to get your
kitten used to it at an early age and brush them as often
as you can. This would be a good activity to work into
their daily schedule.
Kitten Proofing
This is probably of the most overlooked areas when
purchasing a new kitten, but one of the most important.
Just like human babies, kittens are babies and they love
to explore and investigate, not realizing the potential
dangers. It is up to you to make sure its environment is
safe. Kittens love to use electrical cords and phone cords
as teething rings. Wrap them in protectors, tape them
down or put them up out of reach. Make sure blind cords
are kept out of reach. Kittens love batting them around,
but they can get tangled in them and coke. Be sure to
either anchor the cords or tie them up out of reach. Keep
small items like jewelry, buttons, pins, needles, coins,
rubber bands, tacks, paper clips, broken balloons, bobby
pins, and breakable items picked up. Kittens love little
tidbits to chew on or tote around. If they are accessible
they could swallow them which could be fatal. Same
thing holds true with decorations, especially around the
holidays. Breakable Christmas tree ornaments and tinsel
should be kept off limits. Make sure to keep the garage
off limits. They are too many dangerous chemicals and
hazards lurking in the garage. Anti -freeze has a sweet
taste to pets, and is deadly. Vehicles are another reason
to keep your kitten out of the garage. Kitchens and
bathrooms also pose a risk. Keep toilet lids down and
tubs and sinks drained. A kitten can easily drown in these
places. Cabinets are a fun place for a kitten to explore,
but they usually contain cleaners and detergents that are
harmful. Make sure to keep such items out of reach or
get child safety latches to keep them out of those areas.
Keep appliance doors like washer, dryers and
dishwashers closed. Always check before starting
appliances to make sure your kitten didn’t climb inside
while you weren’t looking, especially the dryer! Kittens
love to snuggle up in warm places. Traps and poisons left
out can also be fatal to a kitten. Make sure to place such
items where they cannot be found. Certain plants are
also dangerous, to be safe put all plants up or in rooms
where your kitten doesn’t have access. One of the best
ways to keep your kitten safe is to have a “safe-place.”
This is a room where you can place your kitten when you
first bring them home. This is also the place where your
kitten stays while you are not home or at night while you
cannot keep an eye on them. Stock this room with food,
fresh water, litter box, plenty of toys, scratching post,
and comfy bed. This will also give your kitten a chance to
get used to their environment.
Kitten Essentials
A bed is a great way to give your kitten a safe place
to relax. Look for a bed that is warm, lightweight and
comfortable but that has a washable cover. Keep away
from wicker or rattan as they can be difficult to clean and
could break apart mad become a choking hazard. Keep in
mind that you may have picked the perfect bed, but your
kitten may pick its own, like your pillow.
A cat carrier is essential for safe trips to the vet or
travel. It needs to be large enough for your kitten to
stand up in and turn around comfortably. Make sure you
allow for growth. Lightweight plastic or fiberglass tends
to be the best, however make sure it is well ventilated.
Carriers that open from the top are also best to use.
Food and water bowls are essential. Stainless steel is the
best choice; ceramic would be a nice second. They are
easily cleaned, which should be done daily. Plastic is
known to cause chin acne in cats. Cats do not like to soil
their whiskers so keep that in mind while you are looking.
Make sure and place your kitten’s food and water dish a
good distance away from the litter box.
A brush and comb are also necessary. Don’t let daily
grooming scare you. A daily once over does not take that
much time and it will prevent the kitten from matting
and tangling. It also cuts down on shedding and keeps its
coat healthy. Make sure to get under her legs where
there tends to be a much greater potential for matting.
A scratching post will prevent your furniture and
curtains from becoming your kittens exercise equipment.
It is natural for your kitten to scratch. It tones kitten’s
muscles and maintains her claws. Never hit a kitten for
scratching. A light spray from a water bottle will deter it
from things that are off limits and then take it to its
scratching post. Make sure the base is wide and heavy to
prevent tipping. Also, kittens and cats seem to prefer
rough coverings like rope, burlap or low-pile carpet.
Entice your kitten by rubbing a little catnip on it.
Even if you decide to keep your kitten indoors its
whole life, a breakaway collar and name tag is still a good
idea. It is better to have your kitten identified in the
event that an unexpected happens and it makes it out an
open door. Some pet stores have name tags engravers
right in the store so you can make it and take it. You may
also want to consider having your vet microchip your
kitten for more piece of mind.
Toys, toys, toys! Balls, furry mice, feathers, jingly
bells. Again there are many to choose from, just make
sure that you check each for safety and durability. Many
great toys are right in your own home. Kittens live ping
pong balls, a plastic hair curler, anything that can batted
around and make noise but cannot be ingested. Blow
bubbles and watch your kitten try to catch them. Cut
holes in cardboard boxes create a great game of hide and
go seek. They love paper sacks to hide in, just make sure
to never give your kitten a plastic bag, they could easily
suffocate.
Introducing Your Kitten
Coming into a new environment can be traumatic
experience for a kitten. Make sure its first day or two are
quiet and without visitors. Keep your kitten in a “safe
room” as discussed above and be with it as much as
possible. This will allow your kitten to become familiar
with its new environment and also allow you to observe
it’s eating, drinking and elimination habits. And you
won’t panic if you can’t find your kitten. Feed your kitten
lightly the first day as it may be too nervous or busy
exploring. After your kitten eats, place it in its litter box.
Praise your kitten when it’s done taking care of business.
Once your kitten is settled in, carry it about the rest of
your home and place it down in each room and allow
your kitten to investigate the area before you move on.
Resist the urge to take your new kitten to bed right away.
Your kitten is much too small and accidents can happen.
If there are young children at home they should be
taught how to care and handle a kitten. Try showing
them with a stuffed animal first. Make sure to caution
very young children to always sit on the floor when
holding a kitten. Give clear rules and reasons for them.
Never play rough or wild, no running around the kitten as
it could easily get stepped on. Teach them the
importance of keeping doors closed by telling them the
dangers a kitten could face outside. Explain that loud
music, screaming or yelling hurts the kitten’s ears. Make
sure they know the “NO” rules. NO poking, pinching,
kicking, pulling tail or ears and no hugging to hard – it
hurts! Explain that kittens need rest and they are not to
disturb the kitten when it’s eating or sleeping or in its
safe room. Never leave a child under the age of six alone
with a kitten. Either of them could get hurt. This does not
mean that children can’t share in the excitement of the
new family member. Let them help groom it and feed it.
Allow them supervised cuddle and playtime with the
kitten. As the kitten grows it will know better to protect
itself and the children will know how to follow the rules.
If you are bringing home your kitten into a home
that has an established pets, please make sure to take
extra precautions. Cats and dogs are territorial; never
allow established pets access to a new kitten without
strict supervision. Introduce your new kitten slowly. You
can place the kitten in a carrier in a room where your
other pets are, like the living room. Try this for short
periods of time only; try not to stress your new kitten.
Expect the kitten to have not so thrilled reactions from
the residents, hissing, batting, and growling will probably
all take place. Give it time and patience. Increase the
time with the carrier gradually each day. When there
seems to be no aggressive behavior, you may introduce
them while you are holding the kitten. Continue to work
with them gradually always supervised until you are
certain they are comfortable with each other. Never
allow them to be alone until you are confident they have
accepted each other. Pay extra attention to your old
buddies during this phase, they will also need
reassurance during this transition.
Feline Vaccines
Rabies Vaccination- is required by New York State Law.
Rabies is a fatal virus that affects all warm-blooded animals.
Your pet can be become infected if an animal infected with
rabies bites your animal.
Feline Leukemia- Protects against Feline leukemia. Feline
leukemia is highly contagious and is spread by nasal secretions
and saliva. If you decide that your cat will be an indoor/
outdoor cat, this vaccine is recommended.
Feline RCP- Combination vaccine that protects against
Rhinotracheitis, Calici Virus and Panleukopenia. These diseases
cause upper respiratory infections that are highly contagious.
Kitten Vaccination Checklist
First Kitten Visit (8 Weeks)
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First Wellness Visit
First FVRCP vaccination
FeLV/FIV test
First deworming
First fecal check
First flea prevention
Second Kitten Visit (12 weeks)
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Second Wellness Visit
Second FVRCP vaccination
Rabies vaccination
First FeLV vaccination (outdoor cats)
Second deworming
Second fecal check
Second flea prevention
Third kitten Visit (16 weeks)
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Third Wellness Visit
Third FVRCP vaccination
Second FeLV vaccination ( outdoor cats)
Third deworming
Third fecal check
Third flea prevention
*After your kittens third visit we recommend making an appointment to get your
kitten spayed or neutered. We recommend spaying and neutering between 6-9
months.
Vaccine Reactions
It is fairly uncommon for your pet to experience some
side effects after being vaccinated. Some reactions
happen within hours after vaccination and can last for a
couple days.
 Swelling and discomfort at vaccination site
 Mild fever
 Decrease appetite and activity
 Sneezing (following an intranasal vaccine)
A small firm swelling may develop at the site of
vaccination. It should disappear in a couple weeks. If it
increases in size or does not go away please contact us.
More serious but rare side effects could occur, such as
vomiting, diarrhea, itchy skin, facial swelling difficulty
breathing or collapse. If any of these signs occur,
IMMEDIATLEY call us.
Wellness Exams
Colonial Veterinary Hospital recommends wellness
exams twice a year. Why?
Because:
 Pets do not always show outward signs of illness. This
is especially true of cats. A combination of physical
examination by a veterinarian and in some cases
laboratory testing can give a more accurate picture of
your pet’s health.
 Pets age at a much faster rate than people. Depending
on life stage, pets age between 4 and 15 “human”
years between annual examinations.
 Early detection of disease provides the best chance for
successful treatment.
 Early detection of disease may decrease cost of
treatment.
*A recent study indicated that nearly 60-70% of pets
examined by a veterinarian had health problems that
were not noted by their owners prior to the visit.
Treatable problems included unhealthy weight (too
much or too little), skin problems (including ear
infections), dental disease, organ problems, parasites,
hormonal problems, and osteoarthritis.
How to Prevent and Control Internal and External
Parasites and Reduce the Risk of Zoonotic and VectorBorne Disease
A zoonotic disease is an infectious disease that is
transmitted between animals other than humans to
humans or from humans to other animals. In direct
zoonosis the agent only needs one host for completion of
its life cycle. Some examples of Zoonotic diseases are
rabies, roundworms, ringworm etc.
A vector-borne disease is carried by an insect that can be
transmitted between individuals. Examples include ticks
that carry Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain spotted
fever.
Steps to Prevent and/or reduce risk:
Have one of our veterinarians treat your dogs and
cats, especially young animals, regularly for worms.
Dogs should be treated with a once a month
heartworm preventative, which also prevents
hookworms, roundworms, and whipworms.
Clean up after your pet has defecated, especially in
playgrounds, sidewalks and public parks. Feces
should be either buried or bagged and disposed of it
in the trash. Please clean your pet’s living area at
least once a week, to prevent any bacteria from
forming.
Do not allow your children to play in areas that may
have been soiled with pet or other animal feces.
Let your children know how dangerous it is to eat
dirt or soil.
Do not let you or your children walk barefoot or
touch soil or sand that may contain feces or areas
common with hookworm.
Scrub and wash your hands well with soap and water
for at least 20 seconds, after playing with your pets,
after being outdoors, and especially before you eat.
Teach your children to always wash their hands after
playing with dogs and cats and after playing
outdoors.
Control fleas and ticks on your pet.
Call our office if you note tapeworms segments on
your pet.
Symptoms Not to Ignore
If any of these symptoms occur please call our office
immediately.
Vomiting
Diarrhea
Unintended weight loss
Change in appetite – decreased or increased
Change in normal activity level: lethargy,
hyperactivity, or restlessness
Limping
Sudden inability to move back legs
Crying in pain when touched
Clumsy or disoriented behavior
Seizures
Any loss of consciousness
Coughing
Panting – in a cats
Any difficulty breathing or labored breathing
Any blue, purple, or pale hue to the tongue and
gums
Sudden collapse
Excessive drooling
Straining in the litter box without producing any
urine
Crying out while urinating
Change in urination: location, frequency, amount,
color, smell
Bloating abdomen
Sneezing excessively
Uncontrolled bleeding
Nose-bleed or bruising anywhere on body
Any unusual odor
Hair loss
Runny eyes or nose
Squinting
Emergency Care for Dogs and Cats
How to Move an Injured Pet
The first aid providers are responsible for identifying
and treating the injury or illness, and safely transport
the patient to the veterinary hospital for treatment.
Transporting the patient improperly can result in
further injury or complications. These types of
situations cannot fully prepare the reader for all
specific situations, but it can provide the following
general recommendations.
Handle the Pet as Little as Possible
Encourage the injured pet to lie down and stay with a
calming voice, try to get the pet as comfortable as
possible. Carriers or cardboard box with a lid are best
for smaller dogs and cats when being transported.
Handle the Pet Gently
Handling your injured pet too roughly may cause
further internal bleeding, more damage to the soft
tissues around a fracture, and many other
complications. Please handle/move the injured pet
gently with less movement if possible.
Lay the Pet on its Side
If the injured patient resents lying on its side or is
having difficulty breathing, it may indicate, it may
indicate the patient may have an injury to its chest or
lungs. If this is the case, it is better to leave the patient
in a comfortable position and not on its side.
Minimize Movement
With your injured patient lying down, it is best to tape
or strap the patient down, to prevent less movement.
This is important when handling an unconscious
patient or a patient with a suspected back injury or
fracture.
Do Not Put Pressure on the Stomach
Do not put any pressure on the abdomen or stomach
especially if the patient is having difficulty breathing,
vomiting, or pain in the abdomen.
Use a Backboard
If the patient is paralyzed or unable to get up, may
indicate a spinal injury. The pet must be firmly
immobilized to prevent further damage to the nerves.
A firm, flat support (an ironing board, a piece of
plywood, a collapsed cardboard box, or table leaf. Try
thinking of something you can use in your house
before you need it. Try to keep the back and neck as
straight as possible. Gently grasp the skin on the back
of the neck and on the small part of the back, gently
slide the pet on to the support. Tie or tape the injured
patient to the support.
Position the Head
Position the head in normal alignment with the body, if
the patient is unconscious. The head/neck should not
flex abnormally downward nor extend excessively
upward. Improper flexing or extending of the
head/neck may cause decreased blood drainage from
the brain. This can cause serious damage. If the
patient has vomited or is likely to vomit, put the head
down below the level of the heart. This will allow the
vomit to come out of the mouth and not down into the
windpipe and the lungs. A pet that has a severe head
injury is likely to vomit, even if they are unconscious.
Cover the Patient with a Blanket
Covering an injured patient with a blanket, towel or
sheet can calm him/her, but more importantly it
prevents heat loss. A blanket can also be used for
transporting a patient, if there are no signs of back
injury. In this case, the animal can be gently lifted with
the blanket and then gently place or slid on to the
center of the blanket. Roll the edges of the blanket to
provide a better grip, then gently lift the blanket and
the pet into the vehicle; this is usually a two-person
job.
Know the Route to the Veterinary Facility
Precise directions and driving directly to the veterinary
hospital is important. This will help get to the patient
to the hospital as fast as possible for immediate care.
Drive Carefully!
Driving carefully is important; driving recklessly or in a
panic may result in delays, further injuries to the
patient or you, and may cause an accident.
Emergency situations require prompt and safe
transport of the sick or injured pet. If done properly,
this will give your pet a better chance for recovery,
delaying or if done carelessly, the outcome could be
less favorable. Prior planning and awareness of proper
techniques will prevent many problems.
First Aid: A Final Note
Please call if there is an emergency (meaning make
sure that the veterinarian knows to be ready for you
when you arrive, especially after hours). If you do not
call first, you may arrive to find that a doctor is not
available. To avoid wasting time in a crisis, ask your
veterinarian ahead of time about our emergency
services available, and learn the shortest route to our
hospital.
10 Most Common Poisonous Plants
From the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center
Lilies — Members of the Lilium spp. are considered to be
highly toxic to cats. While the poisonous component has
not yet been identified, it is clear that with even
ingestions of very small amounts of the plant, severe
kidney damage could result.
Tulip/Narcissus bulbs — The bulb portions of
Tulipa/Narcissus spp. contain toxins that can cause
intense gastrointestinal irritation, drooling, loss of
appetite, depression of the central nervous system,
convulsions, and cardiac abnormalities.
Azalea/Rhododendron — Members of the Rhododenron
spp. contain substances known as grayantoxins, which
can produce vomiting, drooling, diarrhea, weakness and
depression of the central nervous system in animals.
Severe azalea poisoning could ultimately lead to coma
and death from cardiovascular collapse.
Oleander — All parts of Nerium oleander are considered
to be toxic, as they contain cardiac glycosides that have
the potential to cause serious effects—including
gastrointestinal tract irritation, abnormal heart function,
hypothermia, and even death.
Castor Bean — The poisonous principle in Ricinus
communis is ricin, a highly toxic protein that can produce
severe abdominal pain, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea,
excessive thirst, weakness and loss of appetite. Severe
cases of poisoning can result in dehydration, muscle
twitching, tremors, seizures, coma, and death.
Cyclamen — Cylamen species contain cyclamine, but the
highest concentration of this toxic component is typically
located in the root portion of the plant. If consumed,
Cylamen can produce significant gastrointestinal
irritation, including intense vomiting. Fatalities have also
been reported in some cases.
Kalanchoe — This plant contains components that can
produce gastrointestinal irritation, as well as those that
are toxic to the heart, and can seriously affect cardiac
rhythm and rate.
Yew — Taxus spp. contains a toxic component known as
Taxine, which causes central nervous system effects such
as trembling, changes in coordination, and difficulty
breathing. It can also cause significant gastrointestinal
irritation and cardiac failure, which can result in death.
Marijuana — Ingestion of Cannabis sativa by companion
animals can result in depression of the central nervous
system and in coordination, as well as vomiting, diarrhea,
drooling, increased heart rate, and even seizures and
coma.
Sago Palm — All parts of Cycas revoluta are poisonous,
but the seeds or “nuts” contain the largest amount of
toxin. The ingestion of just one or two seeds can result in
very serious effects, which include vomiting, diarrhea,
depression, seizures and liver failure.
Creating a Poison Safe Home
There are many household items that can be poisonous
or toxic to your pet. There are foods, chemicals, plants,
medications and objects that can create life threatening
situations if ingested, inhaled or absorbed by your pet.
The following information is from the ASPCA Animal
Poison Control Center web site.
Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Pet
Alcoholic beverages
Avocado
Chocolate (all forms)
Coffee (all forms)
Fatty foods
Macadamia nuts
Moldy or spoiled foods
Onions, onion powder
Raisins and grapes
Salt
Yeast dough
Garlic
Products sweetened with xylitol
Medication
Common examples of human medications that can be
potentially lethal to pets, even in small doses, include:
Pain killers
Cold medicines
Anti-cancer drugs
Antidepressants
Vitamins
Diet Pills
Holiday Hazards
Christmas tree water (may contain fertilizers and
bacteria, which, if ingested, can upset the stomach.
Electrical cords
Ribbons or tinsel (can become lodged in the
intestines and cause intestinal obstruction—most
often occurs with kittens!)
Batteries
Glass ornaments
Warm Weather Hazards
Animal toxins—toads, insects, spiders, snakes and
scorpions
Blue-green algae in ponds
Citronella candles
Cocoa mulch
Compost piles Fertilizers
Flea products
Outdoor plants and plant bulbs
Swimming-pool treatment supplies
Fly baits containing methomyl
Slug & snail baits containing metaldehyde
Cold Weather Hazards
Antifreeze
Liquid potpourri
Ice melting products
Rat and mouse bait
Common Household Hazards
Fabric softener sheets
Mothballs
Post-1982 pennies (due to high concentration of
zinc)
Non-toxic Substances for Dogs & Cats
The following substances are considered to be non-toxic,
although they may cause mild gastrointestinal upset in
some animals:
Water-based paints
Toilet bowl water
Silica gel
Poinsettia
Cat litter
Glue traps
Glow jewelry
Weather
Provide plenty of fresh drinking water at all times.
Keep your pet’s kennel well-ventilated and
positioned near a well-shaded area where your pet
can avoid midday sun and heat.
Avoid excessive exercise during hot weather. Overexertion can cause heat stress or stroke. Safe
outdoor temperatures for pets vary by breed and
size. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation
specific to your pet.
Warning: If you suspect heat stress or stroke (e.g.
collapse, extremely heavy panting, and excessive
drooling), wet your pet thoroughly with cool (not cold)
water by immersion or spray your pet with a garden hose
and call your veterinarian immediately.
Skin and Body
Keep your pet well-groomed. Long hair and hair
mats can decrease your pet’s ability to keep cool and
contribute to skin disease. So regularly brush your
pet and trim hair as needed.
Vaccinate your pet against infectious diseases (e.g.
canine parvovirus or feline leukemia). Pets usually
have more contact with other animals during
warmer months and disease can spread more easily.
Parasite Prevention
Use monthly flea, tick, and heartworm preventives.
Pets should take these preventives year-round.
Remember, it’s often easier and cheaper to prevent
parasites than to treat them when a pet is infected
or infested. Take your pet for fecal exams for
internal parasites at least once a year.
To reduce pets’ access to parasites and discourage
parasite breeding, keep your yard clean of feces,
dump any standing water – even in watering cans or
flower pot saucers – clean up leaf litter, and trim
bushes and trees.
Summer Care for Pets
Weather
Provide plenty of fresh drinking water at all times.
Keep your pet’s kennel well-ventilated and
positioned near a well-shaded area where your pet
can avoid midday sun and heat.
Avoid excessive exercise during hot weather. Overexertion can cause heat stress or stroke. Safe
outdoor temperatures for pets vary by breed and
size. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation
specific to your pet.
Warning: If you suspect heat stress or stroke (e.g.
collapse, extremely heavy panting, and excessive
drooling), wet your pet thoroughly with cool (not cold)
water by immersion or spray your pet with a garden hose
and call your veterinarian immediately.
Skin and Body
 Keep your pet well-groomed. Long hair and hair
mats can decrease your pet’s ability to keep cool and
contribute to skin disease. So regularly brush your
pet and trim hair as needed.
 Vaccinate your pet against infectious diseases (e.g.
canine parvovirus or feline leukemia). Pets usually
have more contact with other animals during
warmer months and disease can spread more easily.
Parasite Prevention
 Use monthly flea, tick, and heartworm preventives.
Pets should take these preventives year-round.
Remember, it’s often easier and cheaper to prevent
parasites than to treat them when a pet is infected
or infested. Take your pet for fecal exams for
internal parasites at least once a year.
 To reduce pets’ access to parasites and discourage
parasite breeding, keep your yard clean of feces,
dump any standing water – even in watering cans or
flower pot saucers – clean up leaf litter, and trim
bushes and trees.
Toxic Substances
 The poisons that kill common pests, like rodents,
snails, and slugs, are lethal to pets, too, if consumed.
So limit your pet’s access to places where these
poisons are stored in and around your home.
 Lawn herbicides can also poison pets, so keep your
pet out of the yard while spraying herbicides and off
the grass for 3 days afterward. Washing pets’ paws
thoroughly with soap and cool water before coming
back inside will help remove herbicidal residue.
Motor Vehicles
The temperature inside a car can easily climb to 120
degrees when a vehicle is parked in the summer sun.
Never leave your pet unattended in a vehicle.
Winter Care for Pets
General Concerns
The cold winter air may cause concern for your pet.
Keep the following precautions in mind:
 Don’t leave your dog outside in the cold for long
periods of time. Wind chill makes days colder than
actual temperature readings. Be attentive to your
dog’s body temperature, and limit time outdoors.
 Adequate shelter is a necessity. Keep your dog
warm, dry, and away from drafts. Tiles and
uncarpeted areas may become extremely cold, so
make sure to place blankets and pads on floors in
these areas.
 Groom your dog regularly. Your dog needs a wellgroomed coat to keep properly insulated. Short-or
coarse-haired dogs may get extra cold, so consider a
sweater or coat. Long-haired dogs should have
excess hair around the toes and foot pads trimmed
to ease snow removal and cleaning. If you do the
trimming, take care not to cut the pads or other
delicate area of the foot.
 Feed your dog additional calories if it spends a lot of
time outdoors or is a working animal. It takes more
energy in the winter to keep body temperature
regulated, so additional calories are necessary.
 Towel or blow-dry your dog if it gets wet from rain
or snow. It is important to dry and clean its paws
too. This helps prevent tiny cuts and cracked pads.
A little petroleum jelly may soften the pads and
prevent further cracking.
 Don’t leave your dog alone in a car. If the car engine
is left on, the carbon monoxide will endanger your
dog’s life. If the engine is off, the temperature in the
car will get too cold.
Health Tips
Dogs cannot talk to us when they are sick. As a
responsible dog owner, it is important to pay special
attention to your dog’s well-being during the winter
season. Remember the following health concerns:
 Antifreeze, which often collects on driveways and
roadways, is highly poisonous. Although it smells
and tastes good to your dog, it can be lethal.
 Rock salt, used to melt ice on sidewalks, may irritate
footpads. Be sure to rinse and dry your dog’s feet
after a walk
 Provide plenty of fresh water. Your dog is just as
likely to get dehydrated in the winter as in the
summer. Snow is not a satisfactory substitute for
water.
 Frostbite is your dog’s winter hazard. To prevent
frostbite on its ears, tail, and feet don’t leave your
dog outdoors for too long.
 Be careful of supplemental heat sources. Fireplaces
and portable heaters can severely burn your dog.
Make sure all fireplaces have screens, and keep
portable heaters out of reach.
 Like people, dogs seem to be more susceptible to
illness in the winter. Take your dog to the
veterinarian if you see any suspicious symptoms.
 Don’t use over-the-counter medication on your dog
without consulting a veterinarian.
Holiday Safeguards
The winter season brings lots of fun holiday festivities,
but pet-owners should keep in mind the following special
precautions:
 The holidays are not ideal for introducing a pet into
your family. New puppies and dogs require extra
attention and a stable environment, which the
holiday season doesn’t permit. Also, a puppy is not a
toy or gift that can be returned. Instead, the AKC
suggests giving a gift representative of the dog to
come, such as a toy, leash, or bed.
 Holly, mistletoe, and poinsettia plants are pet
poisons. Make sure they are kept in places your dog
cannot reach.
 Review holiday gifts for dogs to make sure they are
safe. Items such as plastic toys and small rawhide
sticks may be dangerous.
 Remove holiday lights from lower branches of your
tree. They may get very hot and burn dogs.
 Watch out for electrical cords. Pets often try to
chew them and may get badly shocked or
electrocuted. Place wires out of reach.
 Avoid using glass ornaments. Your dog may knock
the tree over in an attempt to eat them. Also,
commercial ornaments may contain paint or toxins
in the preservatives.
 Whether your tree is live or artificial, both kinds of
needles are sharp and indigestible. Don’t leave your
dog unattended in the room with the tree.
 Tinsel is dangerous for dogs. It may obstruct
circulation and, if swallowed, block the intestines.
 Alcohol and chocolate are toxic for dogs, even in
small amounts. Keep unhealthy sweet treats and
seasonal goodies out of reach.
 The holiday season is a stressful time for dogs. Try
to keep a normal schedule during all the excitement.