n°510 – timeinmovement time in movement

Transcription

T I M E
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Contents
Chopard Manufacture
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L.U.C Collection
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150th anniversary
44
L.U.C 150 “All-in-One”
44
L.U.C Louis-Ulysse – The Tribute
50
L.U.C 1937
56
L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon
62
Tourbillons
68
L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Twist
74
L.U.C Tourbillon SL
78
L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Steel Wings
80
L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon
82
L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier
84
Moon phases
86
L.U.C Lunar One
90
Striking mechanisms
92
L.U.C Strike One
96
L.U.C Tech Strike One
98
Chronographs
100
L.U.C Chrono One
104
Classics
106
L.U.C XP
108
L.U.C XP Urushi
110
L.U.C XPS
118
L.U.C XP Tonneau
120
L.U.C Tech Twist
124
L.U.C Qualité Fleurier
128
L.U.C Quattro
132
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A close-up look at a few professions
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L.U.C calibres
154
Classic Racing collection
188
Superfast
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Superfast Split Second
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Superfast Chrono
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Mille Miglia
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Mille Miglia Gran Turismo XL
204
Mille Miglia GT XL Power Control
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Mille Miglia GT XL GMT
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Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono 2011
214
Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Rosso Corsa
216
Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono
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Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Split Second
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Mille Miglia Chronograph
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Mille Miglia GMT Chrono
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Grand Prix de Monaco Historique
234
Grand Prix de Monaco Historique 2010
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Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Time Attack MF
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Jacky Ickx
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Jacky Ickx Edition V
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Annexes
Customer Service
Guarantee
Chopard milestones
Glossary
252
254
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259
262
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Passion and reason
When I took up the challenge of creating Chopard Manufacture in 1996, it was a choice
guided by reason, but also by the passion that nurtures the Chopard brand. In my view, a
brand can only fully exist in the field of Haute Horlogerie by achieving complete control
of the making of its timepieces: design and development, production and assembly,
movements and exteriors. It is a matter of independence, long-term reliability and
authenticity, values that are cherished by our customers, and the creation of a full-fledged
manufacture is an inescapable step in reaching this goal.
Chopard Manufacture currently incorporates all the professions of Haute Horlogerie, a
degree of vertical integration that enables it to create, develop and produce all the L.U.C
collection movements in-house. There are currently nine base calibres and over 50 variations
covering almost the entire range of horological complications – from the chronograph to
the perpetual calendar, the tourbillon and the equation of time. All of them demonstrate a
constant concern for quality in terms of both performance and finishing. Featuring a subtle
blend of design, high technology and time-honoured traditions, all our L.U.C timepieces
embody in their own way the Chopard state of mind as well as its inimitable style.
Less than twenty years after the founding of Chopard Manufacture, the very fact of
having created such a body of resources represents an accomplishment of which we are
particularly proud. At a time when Chopard has just celebrated its 150th anniversary, we
are delighted to present it to you here.
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
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Chopard Manufacture
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From the birth to the rebirth
of an Haute Horlogerie manufacture
The history of Chopard spans over 150 years and is marked by two essential milestones:
1860 and 1996. For while it was in 1860 that Louis-Ulysse Chopard created his watchmaking
workshop in Sonvilier, in the mountains of the Bernese Jura; it was in 1996 that the company
which now bears its name was rejuvenated by the founding in Fleurier, not far from the
original birthplace, of Chopard Manufacture.
Creating from scratch a genuine Haute Horlogerie manufacture represented a daring
wager at the time, but the idea was driven by a genuine vision – that of Karl-Friedrich
Scheufele, whose family had acquired the Chopard brand around 30 years earlier. This
return to roots, to Chopard’s fundamental vocation, that of watchmaking, had to be
undertaken not only in the region where it all began, in the Jura, but also by doing all
that was necessary to achieve a legitimate and flourishing existence in the field of Haute
Horlogerie. And recreating a manufacture was the only way of doing that.
Almost twenty years later, the results are evident. Not only does Chopard Manufacture
employ 150 people in Fleurier, but there are a number of staff members in Geneva directly
involved with the Haute Horlogerie division. Because Chopard Manufacture also has
workshops based in Geneva, which perform tasks including assembling models bearing
the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
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CHOPARD MANUFACTURE
The mastery of the numerous professions involved throughout the process of development
and production, along with the resulting high level of vertical integration, now fully entitle
it to the rare and enviable status of a genuine manufacture. Chopard Manufacture is
indeed capable of making watches from their conception through to the finished models.
This encompasses research and development undertaken by technical departments
equipped with the most sophisticated computer-assisted software, all the way through
to age-old decorative techniques entirely performed by hand in keeping with the finest
watchmaking traditions. It is indeed this manual craftsmanship that enables Chopard to
offer authentically unique pieces, since in terms of decoration and finishing each watch
will in fact end up being completely different from any others.
The human hand thereby remains the central element of Chopard Manufacture. Whether
in terms of the production of movement components or exterior parts, decoration and
finishing, assembly and casing up of the calibres and right the way through to the final
control prior to delivery, the art of Haute Horlogerie as exercised by Chopard is entirely
based on this incomparable production facility. And even through various constraints
relating to the precision, the quality and the durability of today’s timepieces oblige
any self-respecting manufacture to establish a cutting-edge industrial plant, Chopard
Manufacture has chosen to give pride of place to hand craftsmanship, even when this
choice involves higher production costs. The kind of choice that only a family business could
make, thanks to an entirely independent structure unbound by the demands of immediate
profit stemming from external investors unaware of the nature of fine watchmaking.
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This long-term vision of independence, which has become a rarity in the field of Haute
Horlogerie, is also echoed in the certification choices made by Chopard Manufacture: they
are all granted by external and therefore independent organisations: the famous Swiss
Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), the Fleurier Quality Foundation label; and
the much-coveted Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
This forward-looking approach has proved both judicious and fruitful, since Chopard
Manufacture currently has no less than nine movement families representing more than
50 calibre variations to its credit. Testifying to an exceptional degree of creativity and a rare
level of expertise for such a youthful manufacture, they represent a constantly growing
body of resources, since Chopard is now able to develop and produce the full range of
horological complications. A set of assets entirely worthy of Louis-Ulysse Chopard…
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CHOPARD MANUFACTURE
Independence, creativity, quality
Manufacturing a watch movement from start to finish is no easy task, and remains the
exclusive preserve of a handful of watch brands in Switzerland who truly deserve to
bear the title of manufacture. Chopard Manufacture is one of them, and one that opted,
right from its founding in 1996, for extreme integration as a guarantee of independence,
creativity and quality. Years of relentless effort have resulted in the L.U.C calibre collection.
These three initials representing a tribute to the brand founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard
are conferred on a series of exceptional movements. Among them, the L.U.C Calibre
05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE), housed in the L.U.C 150 “All-in-One” is particularly representative of
the movement creation process at Chopard Manufacture, and in this respect deserves a
closer look at the various stages involved in its making.
The 516 parts of L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE) make up an incredible puzzle.
All were developed and made one by one in the workshops of Chopard Manufacture.
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CHOPARD MANUFACTURE
1. Research and development
A new movement, a new watch
For Chopard Manufacture, creating a new watch means first creating a new movement
by following a lengthy Research and Development process, for such is its vision of Haute
Horlogerie. The design and conception of its exterior, meaning everything that must be
added to the movement to form a complete watch – case, dial, hands, etc. – comes later,
the aim being to highlight its aesthetic and functional qualities.
The process of conceiving a movement begins with an idea, with plans, with visualising a
concept. It is only once this work has progressed sufficiently that the task of the movement
design engineers working in the technical department can begin. It is these engineers,
skilled in the use of computer assisted design software, who will conceive the movement
while incorporating the various mechanisms and complications foreseen in the technical
specifications. With the help of researchers in the Chopard Technologies division, they may
be led to incorporate new materials and/or new processes. Based on the detailed plans
they pass on to the calibre-makers, the latter then make movement prototypes in order
to confirm the smooth operation or to implement any necessary corrective measures.
Since 1996 and the founding of Chopard Manufacture, nine movement families have been
developed in this way, giving rise to a number of patent registrations, including five for
L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE) alone, the most recent and complex of them all with its
516 components and 14 complications.
L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE), the result of many years of research and development. Protected by five
exclusive patents, it is currently the most complex calibre produced by Chopard Manufacture.
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CHOPARD MANUFACTURE
2. Micromechanics
Micron-level precision
Within a watch manufacturing facility, the micromechanical workshop is the place where
everything starts – or almost so. It is indeed this workshop that receives the raw materials
from which the movement components are made. These include the brass discs that will
become the ébauche of a movement, meaning its mainplate and its bridges.
This stage involves the use of computer numerically controlled machines which, with the
help of various tools, successively mill, tap and bevel these small metal discs to a 2-micron
level of precision. In certain specific cases, manual work is deemed more reliable and thus
preferable – as in the case of trimming, which is done “by hand and by sight”.
The other parts, generally encompassed in the French term fournitures (components), are
usually made using steel bars. They are cut out by a wire electrical discharge machining, a
system using a metal wire immersed in a conducting solution through which an electric
current passes and which cuts the metal by “spark erosion”. The level of precision is even
greater here, at less than a micron, and the parts must be electronically controlled. Chopard
Manufacture produces almost all its movement components in-house.
The non-decorated mainplate of L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE).
This tiny brass part machined to micron-level tolerances will carry all the
mobile movement parts: arbors, wheels, modules, rods, springs…
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CHOPARD MANUFACTURE
3. Decoration
Inner beauty
Haute Horlogerie is undoubtedly an activity that pushes the standard of movement
decoration to extreme levels. And Chopard Manufacture is of course no exception to the
rule, since it has chosen to treat each of its movements as a unique work of art. To this
end, a number of operations, most of them manual, are performed on each of the ébauches
and the other components. The work begins with the design department, which will
decide on the type of decoration best suited to the technical structure of the calibre, the
position of its escapement, of its bridges and of its different gear trains. The work will of
course be done in cooperation with the various decoration artisans who will provide their
opinions and advice regarding the feasibility and the quality of the result. No detail is left
to chance, so as to ensure that each L.U.C movement is as beautiful as it is accurate. An
absolutely original beauty, since the fact that the decorative work is performed by hand
means that at the end of the day each movement is truly one of a kind.
The mainplate of L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE) once the decoration is complete.
This entirely hand-crafted artistic work makes each component truly unique.
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CHOPARD M ANUFAC TURE
Bevelling, drawing out the sides with file strokes, buffing or smoothing the surfaces,
flame-blueing the screws, as well as circular graining, gilded engraving, Côtes de Genève
and electroplating will all be done by various highly qualified artisans. Some operations
are highly complex. Engraving the Côtes de Genève, sometimes known as Geneva stripes
or waves, for example, calls for perfect parallelism and absolutely constant depth for each
of them. Not to mention aligning them between one part and the next when it comes
to decorating several bridges of the same movement! Perfection is therefore mandatory,
since any deviation, however minimal, will completely spoil the visual effect.
The same goes for bevelling or chamfering, which involves handling the cutter and file
with absolute precision, especially when creating the interior angles that must form a
45° angle with each of the sides. Circular grainers, bevellers and engravers decorate the
components with meticulous care that even extends to perfecting the finish of the parts
that will be invisible once the movement is assembled. The only exception to this rule is
the heels of the bridges, which are left as such so as not to jeopardise their stability – the
only case in which beauty defers to technical considerations.
The bridges of L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE) after being chamfered,
gilt-engraved and rhodium-plated.
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4. Assembly
Eye and hand
Pre-assembly is a crucial phase in the making of a timepiece, since it is this phase that will
determine the latter’s smooth operation and the precision. Chopard Manufacture thereby
handles this in-house by entrusting it to the finest artisans and master-watchmakers
of its Fleurier and Geneva workshops. Pre-assembly consists in assembling the complex
mechanisms and components which, once in turn fitted together during the final assembly,
will form the entire movement.
Among them is the balance wheel, which is the central part of the movement regulating
organ in that it sets the cadence. A balance spring must be pinned to the collet on the
rotation axis in order to impart a to-and-fro motion at a given frequency. However, the
balance spring must first undergo several operations, including, for certain calibres, the
delicate “mounting of the curve”. Only two people within Chopard Manufacture are
capable of performing this process designed to create a “Phillips” type terminal curve
“by hand and by sight”, meaning without the help of any apparatus. To achieve this, the
precision timer (known in French as a “régleuse”, or adjuster) gently twists the terminal
coil to create a slight slope, and then twists it again to ensure it is perfectly parallel with
the other coils, thereby forming a tiny “staircase”. She (because it so happens that this is
an exclusively feminine profession) then gives it a slightly smaller radius so that it passes
over the rest of the balance spring. This ingenious device enables the balance spring to
uncoil in a concentric manner, thereby reducing the risks of gain or loss. It goes without
saying that years of experience are needed to acquire the necessary dexterity for this task.
The other operations such as pinning the balance spring up to the collet, centring it
and truing it in the flat, and finally the dynamic poising of the balance wheel in order
to ensure the precision of its oscillations, are all operations performed by hand within
Chopard Manufacture.
The components of the beating heart of L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE): its tourbillon
carriage equipped with a balance spring featuring a Phillips terminal curve.
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The movement springs to life
Assembly is the final stage, at the end of which the heart of the movement will begin
beating for the very first time. For months on end, the components have been produced
and the mechanisms assembled within Chopard Manufacture during the pre-assembly
phase. All the parts of this complex puzzle will now be united by the watchmaker’s expert
hand. According to the complexity of the movement, this work may take anything from
several days to several weeks. L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE) with its 516 components
is an eloquent example.
Assembling the 239 parts of the movement base, which includes an escapement fitted with
a tourbillon regulator, calls for a full 24 hours. Assembling the perpetual calendar module,
its connecting gear train as well as the unit bearing the astronomical functions such as
the equation of time, sunrise and sunset times and the moon phase, takes 64 hours to
fit together these 277 additional components. This time-consuming work ends with the
stage referred to in French as achevage (literally, “finishing”), and which in fact involves
adjusting the escapement. This is done by adjusting the pallet lever in relation to the
balance wheel and the escape-wheel. This last phase also involves a set of equally delicate
operations including fitting the balance wheel and the balance-wheel bridge, truing in
the flat and centring the balance spring, poising the balance wheel, and lubricating the
movement. All of which takes an expert hand 11 days, meaning over two weeks, to create
and give life to just one of these calibres. Movements requiring such a lengthy assembly
process are few and far between in the watch industry.
L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE) during the assembly process.
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The irreplaceable objectivity
of independent testing organisations
The making of such sophisticated timepieces as the L.U.C models is a task that leaves no
room for improvisation. It implies a whole set of perfectly regulated testing and certification
processes. The rare components purchased from ultra-specialised suppliers, such as the
hands or watch glasses, are also exhaustively controlled upon their arrival at Chopard
Manufacture. All the other in-house made parts are also subjected to computer-assisted
controls guaranteeing their correct dimensional and aesthetic characteristics.
Once the watches are completed, their precision, functionality and reliability are tested.
For this purpose, Chopard Manufacture has its own in-house laboratory, but also entrusts
this mission to external bodies: the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) –
which tests the movements alone; and, for certain limited editions, the Fleurier Quality
Foundation (FQF), which tests the complete watches. Nothing can compare with the
objectivity of an independent organisation when it comes to granting a quality label,
and in Switzerland only the COSC is entitled to guarantee the precision of a movement
by a chronometer rating certificate. The FQF issues a unique certification, completed by
a period spent in the “Fleuritest” machine. It encompasses aesthetic criteria along with
others relating to precision and durability.
Some of the most prestigious models in the collection are assembled in Geneva; in addition
to compliance with extremely strict aesthetic criteria, this provenance is an essential
prerequisite for a watch to be granted the rare and much-coveted Poinçon de Genève
quality hallmark. Such is the case for the L.U.C 150 “All-in-One” and its L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L
(L.U.C 4TQE), the crown jewel in the L.U.C collection which not only bears this prestigious
hallmark but is also chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing
Institute (COSC).
Assembled L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE). Fully operational, it bears the
prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark and, once submitted to the COSC,
will also earn the coveted title of a certified chronometer.
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6. Watch exterior design
The watch as a jewel case
for the movement
One of the principles of Haute Horlogerie lies in inventing watches that are as beautiful
inside as they are outside. This generally involves watches created prior to the calibre they
house and which is subsequently developed in accordance with the constraints relating to
the exterior – meaning everything other than the calibre itself: the case, dial, hands, glass…
Chopard Manufacture has deliberately sought to adopt a diametrically opposite approach
by first and foremost inventing movements, and then entrusting its own designers with
creating timepieces that are not only beautiful and comfortable, but above all suitable
for highlighting the technical and aesthetic characteristics of their movement. Most are
therefore fitted with transparent case-backs providing views of the sophistication of their
bridges, their escapement and their overall technical structure.
In the case of the “Tech” models, the actual dial design not only seeks to express the
functions of a calibre in a readable and appealing manner, but also to accentuate the
beauty of a finish, the positioning of a gear train, or the finesse of a jumper-spring. This
represents a means for the designers of Chopard Manufacture who are behind the DNA
of the L.U.C collection to invent watches that are indeed equally beautiful inside and out.
The watch exterior is designed in order to highlight
the beauty and the functions of its movement.
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Design and mechanical beauty
The dials of the L.U.C collection all feature a shared aesthetic personality that owes
nothing to chance. Whether satin-brushed or finely guilloché-worked, most are adorned
with a sunburst motif centred on the Chopard logo, while others are made from a solid
18-carat gold plate.
The typeface of the Arabic numerals they carry is equally specific and inspired by the men’s
watches typical of the 1940s and 1950s. When it comes to the Roman numerals, their
distinctive yet elegant style reflects that of the ultra-thin watches created by Chopard in
the 1950s. The long and slender appliques are teamed with Dauphine hands, all specially
designed for the L.U.C collection.
The dial of the L.U.C 150 “All-in-One” features a 6 o’clock opening
providing a chance to admire its tourbillon carriage.
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A wealth of details that are far more than that
Haute Horlogerie is a matter of technique, but also of details. Details that are actually far
more than that, precisely because they play such a key role in the field of Haute Horlogerie.
This is certainly true for the design of the external characteristics of L.U.C watches: their
hands are of the “Dauphine” type, but this design widely used in the watch industry
has been entirely revisited. Now more sophisticated and combining broken lines and
perspective lines, they contribute in their own way to the overall technical and refined
image of the collection.
The Dauphine-type hands combine perspective lines
with broken lines, thus contributing to the technical and
elegant image of the L.U.C 150 “All-in-One” watch.
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7. Casting workshop
In-house gold casting
One final detail highlights the importance that Chopard Manufacture devotes to creating
the exterior of its timepieces: driven by a concern for ensuring complete mastery of the
quality of the various watch components (cases, buckles and lugs), it has chosen to cast
its own gold – a rare case among Haute Horlogerie manufactures. Involving just the right
blend of yellow gold, palladium, silver and copper, this represents yet another profession
exercised in-house, making it one of the world’s most fully integrated manufactures.
This extreme degree of integration makes it possible to achieve case finishes on which
infinite care is lavished by the polishers of Chopard Manufacture, highly experienced
artisans who marry vertical satin-brushing of the case-middle sides with vertical satinbrushed finishing of the bezel and case-back and polishing of the lugs… For such is the
cost of perfection.
The case of the L.U.C 150 “All-in-One” watch features
alternating polished and satin-brushed finishes. It is crafted
from an 18-carat gold specially cast by Chopard.
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Extreme cleanliness and ultimate protection
Casing up is the last stage in assembling a watch. The cases, which are designed, produced
and finished by Chopard Manufacture, are sent to the casing-up workshop where they
are joined by the hands, the dials, and of course the movements that are now operational
and duly tested. The task consists in placing over the latter the dial and then the hands,
after which the resulting ensemble is assembled within the case that will protect it
throughout the life of the watch.
Protection is the mantra in this workshop. The smallest eyelash or speck of dust could
jeopardise the precision of the movement. To ward off such dangers, the premises are
ultra-clean and permanently pressurised so as to expel any possible impurities in the air.
Protective clothing is also a must.
Securely closing the case around its precious contents involves fitting appropriate joints
or gaskets. Water resistance is then tested to ensure that no dust, water or even outside
air will ever penetrate into the sacrosanct interior.
The watch “head” now assembled is at last fitted with the accessories required to make
it a full-fledged watch: a hand-sewn alligator leather strap or metal bracelet, a pin buckle
or a folding clasp. A last phase is complete, and a new life begins…
The completed L.U.C 150 “All-in-One” watch: a micromechanical masterpiece
stemming from years of development and several months of production.
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L.U.C collection
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L .U.C COLLEC TION
The L.U.C collection bearing the initials of Louis-Ulysse Chopard is a tribute to the man who
in 1860 created a watch manufactory named after him in Sonvilier, a village in the Swiss
Jura. A tribute driven by passion. A passion for beauty, for art, and for Haute Horlogerie.
The passion of a man, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who created Chopard Manufacture in 1996.
In less than twenty years, this watch firm has earned the enviable title of a genuine
manufacture, since it has incorporated within its walls the entire range of Haute Horlogerie
professions and created this collection of exceptional timepieces. Its level of integration
currently enables it to design, develop and produce all its own calibres and to cultivate a
level of inventiveness such that its four latest creations, housing four new calibres, were
simultaneously presented in 2010 to celebrate Chopard’s 150 th anniversary. Each, in its
own way, conveys a specific message from the venerable House.
- L.U.C Calibre 06.01-L (L.U.C EHG) and its watch, L.U.C Louis-Ulysse – The Tribute, display
Chopard’s profound attachment to horological traditions and its support for a school
that perpetuates them: the prestigious Geneva Watchmaking School, the oldest of its
kind in Switzerland.
- L.U.C Calibre 04.01-L (L.U.C 1TRM) driving the L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon model symbolises
the future of the company and its ability to break free of traditional watchmaking codes.
- L.U.C Calibre 01.01-L (L.U.C 1.010) testifies to its capacity to produce high-quality generic
movements.
- L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE) powering the L.U.C 150 “All-in-One” watch is a compendium
of the watchmaking expertise acquired by Chopard Manufacture since its creation in 1996.
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The level of reliability and quality reached by L.U.C calibres enables them all to earn
chronometer certification from the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC),
and many of them to achieve the rare distinction of also bearing such prestigious quality
labels as those of the Fleurier Quality Foundation or the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
All display unfailing respect for the inherent characteristics of this collection: high
frequency, a guarantee of precision; a 22-carat gold oscillating weight for the self-winding
movements; as well as exceptional decorations both on the bridges and the mainplate.
These same high demands are reflected in the finishing of the watches themselves,
timepieces intended for a clientele looking for technical sophistication as well as fine
watchmaking tradition and expertise, and above all elegance. This extreme degree of
precision and finishing justifies the rarity of L.U.C watches, since less than 5,000 a year
are born each year in the Chopard Manufacture workshops.
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L .U.C COLLEC TION / 150TH ANNIVERSARY
The L.U.C 150 “All-in-One” was launched on the occasion of Chopard’s 150th anniversary.
Such an exceptional celebration deserved an exceptional watch, which represents the
sum of expertise acquired by Chopard Manufacture since its creation in 1996, and is the
most complex model made to date.
Witness the characteristics of its calibre for which five patents have been registered: L.U.C
Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE) houses fourteen complications within an area measuring
33 mm in diameter and 11.75 mm thick. It is equipped with a Variner® balance wheel,
an exclusive Chopard feature that consists of incorporating into the rim or felly of the
balance wheel four inertia-blocks serving to finely adjust the inertia without disturbing
the aerodynamics. Oscillating at a rhythm of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it counts off the
hours, minutes and seconds with the extreme precision imparted by its tourbillon, while
guaranteeing a 7-day power reserve thanks to its four barrels (L.U.C Quattro technology).
Its other functions are displayed in an original manner on both the front and back of this
model. The dial side shows an instant perpetual calendar indicating the date, the day, the
month and the four years of the leap-year cycle, as well as a 24-hour indicator which is
extremely useful when setting the watch to the correct time.
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The reverse side of L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE) is visible through the transparent
case-back. Apart from the power reserve, it is entirely dedicated to astronomical functions,
since it features first and foremost the equation of time, a function expressing in minutes
the difference between true solar noon – the exact time when the sun actually reaches
its zenith – and legal noon as indicated by the watch. It also displays sunrise and sunset
times in Geneva, a day/night indication, as well as a spectacular view of the night sky
complete with an orbital astronomic-precision moon-phase display.
The sophistication of its movement is equalled only by the refinement of its exterior
finish: an 18-carat solid gold case with a blend of satin-brushed and polished surfaces,
solid gold guilloché dials, and a black hand-sewn alligator leather strap lined with cognaccoloured alligator leather. A wealth of details that combine to form a truly exceptional
piece of watchmaking.
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The L.U.C 150 “All-in-One” is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing
Institute (COSC) and bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. It is issued
in two limited, numbered series of 15 in 18-carat white gold and 15 in 18-carat rose gold.
Functions Tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Indications [dial side] hours, minutes, small seconds, date, days, months, leap years, 24-hour
display; [case-back side] power-reserve indicator, equation of time, sunrise and sunset times
calculated for Geneva, day/night display, orbital moon-phase display
Certifications Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, COSC certificate
Movement L.U.C 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE), hand-wound (page 162)
Diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 11.75 mm
Power reserve Approx. 170 hours (7 days), L.U.C Quattro technology
(four barrels - two sets of two stacked barrels)
Frequency 4 Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour
Balance wheel Variner®
Balance spring With Phillips terminal curve
Jewels 42
Case
Diameter 46.00 mm
Thickness 18.50 mm
Glass Glareproofed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Case-back Sapphire crystal
Water resistance 30 metres
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with pin buckle in 18-carat gold
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Reference 161925-1001
Material 18-carat white gold
Diameter 46.00 mm
Limited edition 15
Material 18-carat rose gold
Diameter 46.00 mm
Limited edition 15
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The L.U.C Louis-Ulysse – The Tribute watch pays homage to the founder of the Chopard
brand. Its very nature embodies the ties between historical and contemporary watchmaking,
since it is a pocket watch supplied with an 18-carat white gold watch chain and which
can also be worn on the wrist by fixing it securely to a cradle fitted with a leather strap.
This clever system is directly inspired by an invention of Karl Scheufele I, great-grandfather
of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who had filed a patent in the early 20th century for lugs that
could be fitted to a pocket watch in order to transform it into a wristwatch.
The original “adjustable lugs” have now been replaced by an extremely reliable and userfriendly cradle system. The case is placed inside it and firmly clasped between the lugs
by means of a simple quarter-turn of the cradle base.
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The transparent case-back provides ample scope to admire the L.U.C Calibre 06.01-L
(L.U.C EHG) with its refined finishes: bevelled nickel silver bridges, Côtes de Genève
decoration, finely gilded inscriptions and a “swan’s-neck” index assembly form an extremely
refined ensemble entirely in tune with the finest watchmaking traditions.
Bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark and chronometer-certified
by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (based on pocket watch-specific
criteria), this movement was jointly developed by Chopard Manufacture and the Geneva
Watchmaking School – EHG. While the latter no longer had enough parts for the movement
enabling apprentices to make their “school piece”, the former was keen to develop a pocketwatch movement with a view to creating a new model. This convergence of interests led
to the birth of L.U.C Calibre 06.01-L (L.U.C EHG): this movement enables the students at
the prestigious Watchmaking School to create a new school piece – a personal creation
that plays a landmark role in the career of any watchmaker – while providing Chopard
Manufacture with a chance to affirm its support for training the next generation of
watchmakers and also paying tribute to Geneva, its host city since 1937. In order to ensure
the continuity of this partnership and thus provide support for the entire profession,
Chopard has guaranteed EHG a steady supply of the components for this calibre for the
next 30 years.
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Inspired by an historical Chopard pocket watch now reinterpreted as a contemporary
object, the L.U.C. Louis Ulysse – The Tribute watch is issued in a limited numbered edition
of 150 in 18-carat white gold, commemorating Chopard’s 150th anniversary.
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds
Pocket-watch movement L.U.C 06.01-L (L.U.C EHG), hand-wound (page 166)
Diameter 43.20 mm
Thickness 5.50 mm
Power reserve 80 hours
Balance wheel With two spokes, with screws
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 20
Case
Diameter 49.60 mm
Thickness 14.45 mm
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Diameter 49.60 mm
Limited edition 150
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L.U.C 1937
The fact that the L.U.C 1937 watches are named after the date when Chopard chose to
leave the Jura to set up its manufacture in Geneva is no coincidence. Not only does this
date represent a milestone in the company history, but these models and the calibres
also constitute elements that are shaping its future.
Their pure, understated lines and their sunburst satin-brushed slate grey or porcelain-type
dial meet the requirements of the Chopard collection which is designed to include pure,
classical models in keeping with the brand’s horological heritage.
L.U.C Calibre 1.01-L (L.U.C 1.010) is an investment in the future. Designed, developed and
assembled by Chopard Manufacture, its functions are so simple that it has only a date and
a stop-seconds function to facilitate time-setting. Meanwhile, its exceptional technological
level endows it with numerous qualities: a 60-hour power reserve, a high frequency, easy
assembly and maintenance, excellent reliability, and above all impressive sturdiness.
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L.U.C 1937
The L.U.C 1937 watch is available in steel with a slate grey dial in a limited numbered
series of 1,937. This model and its movement were presented in 2010 on the occasion of
Chopard’s 150th anniversary.
Indications Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Certifications COSC certificate
Movement L.U.C 01.01-L (L.U.C 1.010), self-winding (page 170)
Diameter 28.80 mm
Thickness 4.95 mm
Oscillating weight Heavy metal
Balance wheel With four spokes, with screws
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 31
Case
Diameter 42.00 mm
Thickness 11.39 mm
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with pin buckle in steel
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L.U.C 1937
Material Stainless steel
Diameter 42.00 mm
Limited edition 1937
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L.U.C 1937 Classic
Loyal to the philosophy of the L.U.C 1937 watch, these models assert their nobility through
their uncluttered classicism. Their functions are pared down to essentials: hours, minutes,
central seconds and a date. They are displayed by the “Dauphine fusée” hands typical of
the L.U.C collection. Their slender design, combined with a minute track, enables extremely
precise reading.
Diameter 28.80 mm
Thickness 4.95 mm
Balance wheel With four spokes, micro-regulator with screws
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 31
Case
Diameter 42.00 mm
Thickness 11.39 mm
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with pin buckle in steel
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L.U.C 1937 Classic
Diameter 42.00 mm
L.U.C 1937 Classic
Diameter 42.00 mm
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The automobile and watchmaking worlds share the same passion for performance and
fine mechanics. The L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon watch enshrines the encounter between
these two worlds. This microtechnical masterpiece is distinguished by its “motorisation”:
L.U.C Calibre 04.01-L (L.U.C 1TRM), a shaped movement entirely designed, developed and
produced by Chopard Manufacture.
This calibre is machined like a reamed engine block and bears the Chopard signature. In
order to protect it from shocks, the company engineers have mounted it on silent blocks,
while three clamps hold it securely to the case middle.
In terms of performance, the precision of its tourbillon escapement, beating at a frequency
of 28,800 vibrations per hour, is certified by the chronometer rating certificate granted by
the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In terms of functions, it displays the
hours, minutes and small seconds – the latter appearing on the tourbillon carriage – while
the 60-hour power reserve is shown just opposite at 12 o’clock, directly on the mainplate.
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The automobile inspiration is also reflected in the “bodywork” of this mechanical marvel:
carved out of titanium, its inimitable shape and its polished and satin-brushed surfaces
give it a sleek, sophisticated style. The curve of its screw-down lugs that are as streamlined
as car wings enhances the overall dynamic appeal of this model.
The total absence of dial makes this a “jewel case” that appears to be designed exclusively
to highlight the beauty of the engine it houses.
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The L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon model is issued in three limited numbered series of 150
in titanium in tribute to Chopard’s 150th anniversary; 100 in white polished titanium; and
100 in titanium hardened by a titalyt® coating, with orange hour-markers.
Functions Tourbillon
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indicator
Movement L.U.C 04.01-L (L.U.C 1TRM), hand-wound (page 164)
Dimensions 34.00 x 25.90 mm
Thickness 5.60 mm
Power reserve Approx. 60 hours
Jewels 29
Case
Thickness 10.90 mm
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with pin buckle in titanium
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Material Titanium
Limited edition 150
Material Titanium
Limited edition 100
Material Titanium
Limited edition 100
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L .U.C COLLEC TION / TOURBILLONS
Tourbillons
Of all horological complications, the tourbillon is undoubtedly the most prestigious. This
clever device, invented over two centuries ago, is designed to enhance the precision of the
movement by releasing its escapement from the detrimental influence of gravity. This
regulating organ, composed of the balance wheel, the balance spring, the pallet lever
and the lever wheel, is enclosed within a carriage that rotates in order to compensate
for the successive disturbances caused by the effects of gravity on these components.
This device results in significantly increased precision, as is confirmed by the fact that
L.U.C models equipped with a tourbillon, which all earn chronometer certification from
the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), score the highest success rates
in these tests.
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While all boast an exceptional level of precision, their shared technical characteristics
also ensure a level of sturdiness and user friendliness that is unusual for a complication
that is so complex and difficult to create. In terms of user friendliness, they all have a
216-hour (9-day) power reserve clearly displayed on the dial, and small seconds display
on the tourbillon carriage, since the latter performs one rotation per minute. In terms of
their robustness, these movements are subjected to extremely rigorous tests aimed at
ensuring their resistance to shocks. All are equipped with Chopard’s exclusive Variner®
balance wheel, boasting a reliability based on its high level of inertia – 9.37 mg.cm 2 –
and four inertia-blocks fitted on its rim enabling fine and lasting adjustment while not
interfering with its aerodynamic qualities.
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A guarantee of enhanced precision, the Variner® balance wheel has a frequency of 28,800
vibrations per hour. Despite the extremely traditional nature of the tourbillon complication,
it is also a test bench within Chopard Manufacture for new technologies and new materials.
The L.U.C Tourbillon watch collection is a perfect example of the inventiveness that
Chopard Manufacture can demonstrate around a given theme. This particular quality is
vividly displayed across a broad range of products, ranging from the purest traditional
models, such as the L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier, to the most cutting-edge technical
and aesthetic innovations such as those of the L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Twist which unites
several state-of-the-art materials (carbon, aluminium, silicon) within a single watch and
its calibre. An inventiveness that is all the more remarkable in that it is directed solely
towards enhancing the beauty, the sturdiness and the precision of products – a set of
objectives masterfully fulfilled in the L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon model, judging by
the fact it has earned three certifications: a COSC, the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark
and the Fleurier Quality Foundation label. A first in the field of Haute Horlogerie.
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The L.U.C. Tourbillon Tech Twist is a vivid example of the most traditional watchmaking art
and of the capacity to rewrite the codes of this field displayed by a leading manufacture.
Built around the most classic of the major complications, the tourbillon, it dares to offset
the latter’s position, to open the dial to provide views of the components, to clothe it in
carbon machined from the block or even palladium, to introduce silicon and aluminium
into its regulating organ, and to clothe its bridges and mainplate with a black PVD
treatment underscoring the technical and contemporary design. The result is a model at
the crossroads between traditional watchmaking and tomorrow’s technologies.
Movement L.U.C 02.12-L (L.U.C 4TBSTSi), hand-wound (page 184)
Diameter 29.70 mm
Thickness 6.10 mm
Tourbillon carriage Aluminium
Escapement Silicon
Jewels 33
Case
Diameter 42.00 mm
Thickness 13.38 mm
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with pin buckle in palladium (168529-9001) or in titanium
(161917-9001). Special calfskin edition also available for the carbon version (168529-9001)
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Material Palladium
Diameter 42.00 mm
Limited edition 50
Material Carbon
Diameter 42.00 mm
Limited edition 25
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Like the models in carbon and palladium, the L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Twist represents a
different kind of tourbillon, interpreted in a more traditional but also more contrasting style.
Its openworked black dial highlights the silver tones of L.U.C Calibre 02-11-L (L.U.C 4TBST),
designed, developed and made by Chopard Manufacture. It features an exclusive winding
assistance system easily ensuring a 9-day power reserve. Available in 18-carat white or
rose gold, it is issued in a limited numbered series of 100.
Movement L.U.C 02.11-L (L.U.C 4TBST), hand-wound (page 184)
Diameter 29.70 mm
Thickness 6.10 mm
Jewels 33
Case
Diameter 42.00 mm
Thickness 13.38 mm
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with folding clasp in 18-carat gold
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Diameter 42.00 mm
Limited edition 100
Diameter 42.00 mm
Limited edition 100
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L.U.C Tourbillon SL
The L.U.C Tourbillon SL watch offers fresh proof of the technical expertise and flair for
design exercised by Chopard Manufacture. Its case is in titanium (grade 5), which makes
it ultra-light, totally corrosion resistant, and biocompatible. Its aluminium tourbillon
carriage is two and a half times lighter than its equivalent in steel, and the translucent
sapphire crystal bridge supporting it sets it off to particular advantage. The overall effect,
composed of subtly varied shades of grey against which the blue hands and the red powerreserve display stand out in striking contrast, radiates an impression of sophisticated
high-tech elegance.
Movement L.U.C 02.08-L (L.U.C 4TSL), hand-wound (page 186)
Diameter 29.70 mm
Thickness 6.10 mm
Jewels 33
Case
Diameter 40.50 mm
Thickness 10.90 mm
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with steel pin buckle
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L.U.C Tourbillon SL
Material Titanium
Diameter 40.50 mm
Limited edition 100
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The “Tech” concept developed by Chopard Manufacture in this model proves that tradition
and modernity can make a perfect match, provided this association is done with talent.
So here is a classically designed watch with a destructured dial providing an opportunity
to admire L.U.C Calibre 02.03-L (L.U.C 4TT) against a fascinating backdrop of colours and
perspectives. Beauty dedicated to technology, or perhaps the other way round. This model
is available in two 100-piece limited numbered versions in 18-carat white and rose gold.
Movement L.U.C 02.03-L (L.U.C 4TT), hand-wound (page 185)
Diameter 29.70 mm
Thickness 6.10 mm
Jewels 33
Case
Diameter 40.50 mm
Thickness 10.90 mm
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with folding clasp in 18-carat gold
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Diameter 40.50 mm
Limited edition 100
Diameter 40.50 mm
Limited edition 100
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/8&7ULSOH&HUWLÀFDWLRQ7RXUELOORQ
The L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon is a genuinely exceptional model in that it
is the world’s first timepiece to simultaneously bear the COSC and Fleurier Quality
Foundation certifications as well as the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. These are
all attributed by independent bodies and while the first two guarantee an exceptional
level of performances in terms of precision and reliability, the third also confirms the
prestigious origin and the highest standards of craftsmanship embodied in this model.
In terms of functions, the L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon displays the essentials: hours,
minutes, and small seconds borne by the tourbillon carriage. It also proudly showcases
its exceptional 9-day power reserve at 12 o’clock.
Certifications COSC certificate, Fleurier Quality Foundation certificate, Poinçon de Genève
quality hallmark
Movement L.U.C 02.13-L (L.U.C 1.02QF), hand-wound (page 186)
Diameter 29.70 mm
Thickness 6.10 mm
Jewels 33
Case
Diameter 43.00 mm
Thickness 11.15 mm
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L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon
Diameter 43.00 mm
Limited edition 100
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The L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier watch is a tribute to the so-called fleurisanne
engraving technique, an artistic craft which, from the late 18th century onwards, forged
the success of its native village of Fleurier and contributed to spreading its reputation as
far as afield as China. Now all but extinct, fleurisanne engraving is distinguished by its
raised motifs, since the engraver’s work consists not in sculpting by hollowing, but instead
in sparing the motif and removing the material surrounding it in order to make it stand
out. The 18-carat gold bridges and mainplate of L.U.C Calibre 02.10-L1 (L.U.C 4TT3NGM)
are entirely decorated. The difficulty in making this piece justifies its rarity: Chopard
Manufacture has produced just 15, crafted in 18-carat white gold.
Movement L.U.C 02.10-L1 (L.U.C 4TT3NGM), hand-wound (page 185)
Diameter 29.70 mm
Thickness 6.10 mm
Jewels 33
Case
Diameter 40.50 mm
Thickness 10.90 mm
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Diameter 40.50 mm
Limited edition 15
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L .U.C COLLEC TION / MOON PHASES
Moon phases
The sight of the celestial bodies in motion has fascinated humankind since time immemorial.
Among them, the moon has a place all its own, as a familiar face so apparently close to
us and which embodies nocturnal beauty while inspiring countless myths and legends.
The L.U.C Lunar One models featuring moon phases display them in a particularly original
and accurate manner. Original because it is an “orbital” display, with the representation
of the moon and the way in which the sun's light makes it visible to us achieved by two
concentric discs rotating at different speeds against the background of a starlit sky. And
accurate because this complication loses just one day in 122 years. These micromechanical
masterpieces manage to keep very close track of the real average length of time between
two full moons: 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds, and thus deserve the title
of “high-precision” moon-phase models.
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The self-winding calibres driving these models are endowed with a 65-hour power
reserve thanks to their two stacked barrels (L.U.C Twin technology). They are equipped
with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight visible through the transparent case-back and
are chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), a
guarantee of the movement’s precision and reliability.
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L.U.C Lunar One
In addition to their high-precision moon-phase display, the L.U.C Lunar One models boast
a further technical nicety in that they are able to display the moon phase as seen from
the Northern or Southern hemisphere, in accordance with the owner’s wishes. Another
astronomical type of function featured in these models, the instant-display perpetual
calendar, shows the day of the week, the date, the month, the leap year, along with a
24-hour indicator that is useful when setting the time
In an ultimate touch of refinement, their dial and hands are in 18-carat solid gold. Their
calibre, chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC),
also bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. The L.U.C Lunar One watch
is available in limited numbered series of 250 in 18-carat gold or platinum.
Functions Perpetual calendar
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, days, months, four-year leap-year cycle,
orbital moon-phase display
Movement 96.13-L (L.U.C 96QP), self-winding (page 174)
Diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 6.00 mm
Power reserve Approx. 65 hours, L.U.C Twin technology (two stacked barrels)
Oscillating weight 22-carat gold
Balance wheel With three spokes
Jewels 32
Case
Diameter 40.50 mm
Thickness 11.40 mm
Case-back Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with folding clasp in 18-carat gold or platinum
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L.U.C Lunar One
Material Platinum
Diameter 40.50 mm
Limited edition 250
L.U.C Lunar One
Diameter 40.50 mm
Limited edition 250
L.U.C Lunar One
Diameter 40.50 mm
Limited edition 250
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L .U.C COLLEC TION / STRIKING MECHANISMS
Striking mechanisms
In the world of Haute Horlogerie, striking watches are in a league of their own, since they
are the exclusive preserve of a few rare manufactures which alone are capable of designing,
developing and crafting their movements. Creating the latter calls for a combination of
micromechanical and acoustic skills. A powerful and crystal-clear sound, produced by
a mechanism that does not affect the precision of a watch and has the least possible
impact on its power reserve: such are the goals successfully met by Chopard in creating
the L.U.C Calibre 96.14-L (L.U.C 96SH) and L.U.C Calibre 96.14-L1 (L.U.C 96SHT) movements
respectively equipping the L.U.C Strike One and L.U.C Tech Strike One watches.
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These watches are equipped with a metal gong-ring wrapped right around the inside of
the case, and with a tiny hammer that strikes it every hour on the hour. This mechanism
is visible through a window in the dial between 12 and 1 o’clock. A pusher on the case
middle at 10 o’clock services to deactivate it by switching it from the “strike” position –
represented by a musical quaver – to the “silence” position – represented by a quaver rest.
The small seconds are displayed in an original way by a single disc that is half visible
at 6 o’clock. The L.U.C 96.14-L (L.U.C 96SH) and L.U.C 96.14-L1 (L.U.C 96SHT) self-winding
calibres have a 65-hour power reserve thanks to their double-barrel L.U.C Twin system.
Chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), they
are visible through the transparent case-back revealing the Côtes de Genève decoration
and the 22-carat gold oscillating weight.
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L.U.C Strike One
The L.U.C Strike One displays the fascinating charms of striking watches in a classic version
featuring a dial adorned with a sunburst guilloché motif centred on the window indicating
whether the watch is in silence or striking mode; an aperture showing the hammer and
the magical moment when it is set into motion; and a chapter ring forming a kind of
golden gridwork motif revealing discreet glimpses of the metal gong-ring. This wealth
of refined touches pays tribute to the tradition of fine watchmaking. The L.U.C Strike One
watch is issued in a limited numbered series of 100 in 18-carat rose gold.
Functions Hourly strike
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Movement L.U.C 96.14-L (L.U.C 96SH), self-winding (page 175)
Diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 5.75 mm
Jewels 33
Case
Diameter 40.50 mm
Thickness 10.90 mm
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L.U.C Strike One
Diameter 40.50 mm
Limited edition 100
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In keeping with the philosophy of the Tech collection, the L.U.C Tech Strike One watch
reveals the secrets of the striking mechanism that sounds at every change of the hour.
The generous dial opening between 9 and 1 o’clock also provides admirable views of the
finishing of L.U.C Calibre 96.14-L1 (L.U.C 96SHT). Entirely designed, developed and produced
by Chopard Manufacture, this mechanical self-winding movement is chronometer-certified
by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The watch is available in two
limited series of 100 in 18-carat gold or titanium.
Movement L.U.C 96.14-L (L.U.C 96SHT), self-winding
Diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 5.75 mm
Jewels 33
Case
Diameter 40.50 mm
Thickness 10.90 mm
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with pin buckle in 18-carat gold or in steel
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Diameter 40.50 mm
Limited edition 100
Material Titanium
Diameter 40.50 mm
Limited edition 100
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L .U.C COLLEC TION > CHRONOGR APHS
Chronographs
In 2006, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of its founding, Chopard Manufacture wanted
to create a movement testifying to its perfect mastery of Haute Horlogerie techniques. To
achieve this, it developed a new calibre comprising a complication which, while it is one
of the most widespread, is also one of the most complex to produce: the chronograph.
The calibre it created, L.U.C Calibre 03.03-L (L.U.C 11CF), comprises the key features of highend chronographs, since the fully integrated complication operates with a column-wheel
system and a vertical coupling clutch comprising a friction organ made from a viscoelastic
material. Driven by a concern for precision and ergonomics, Chopard has also equipped it
with three other patented devices, including a chronograph reset mechanism activating
three supple hammers ensuring an optimal return of the three hands and effective
absorption of the resulting impact.
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Time-setting the watch can be performed with the utmost precision in that L.U.C Calibre
03.03-L (L.U.C 11CF) features a small seconds reset system combined with a stop seconds
device. The self-winding system is self-locking in order to ensure – thanks to its gear
system – optimal winding whatever the rotation direction of the oscillating weight.
Out of the same concern for efficiency, the latter is mounted on a ceramic ball-bearing
mechanism that requires no lubrication. Thanks to its excellent performances and the
precision guaranteed by its Variner® balance wheel, L.U.C Calibre 03.03-L (L.U.C 11CF) is
chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
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L.U.C Chrono One
The L.U.C Chrono One watch is a tribute to classic and sporty chronographs, with its
silver-toned dial featuring a sunburst motif surrounding the name of the company
founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, along with its applied Roman numerals and black counters.
The only concessions to a more contemporary approach to Haute Horlogerie are a few
bright red accents appearing on the minute circle and the chronograph seconds hand,
while the 44 mm case middle is equipped with integrated pushers framing the crown
guard. Its mechanical self-winding L.U.C Calibre 03.03-L (L.U.C 11CF), visible through the
transparent bevelled case-back, is equipped with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight. It
has a 60-hour power reserve and comes with a chronometer rating certificate granted
by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. The L.U.C Chrono One is available in
18-carat white or rose gold.
Functions Flyback chronograph
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph seconds hand, 30-minute and
12-hour chronograph counters
Movement L.U.C 03.03-L (L.U.C 11CF), self-winding (page 168)
Diameter 28.80 mm
Thickness 7.60 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 45
Case
Diameter 44.00 mm
Thickness 14.06 mm
Case-back Glareproofed sapphire crystal
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L.U.C Chrono One
Diameter 44.00 mm
L.U.C Chrono One
Diameter 44.00 mm
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L .U.C COLLEC TION > CL ASSICS
Ultra-thin watches
Two or three hands, a dial, a case, a movement, a strap: and that sums it all up! The ultrathin watches in the L.U.C collection embody the very essence of a watch: simple objects
concealing any underlying complexity and whose sole purpose is to tell the time while
adopting a deliberately low profile. Their pared-down simplicity is based on ultra-thin
cases with a slim bezel merging into plain-coloured dials adorned only with slender
appliques, four Arabic numerals and majestic Dauphine hands. Their classic, resolutely
horological design endows them with a timeless style beyond the reach of changing
fashions. Their refined case, water-resistant to 30 metres, conceals the mechanical selfwinding L.U.C Calibre 96.17-L (L.U.C 96HM) for the L.U.C XP versions, or L.U.C Calibre 96.12-L
(L.U.C 12.96) for the L.U.C XPS versions. These ultra-thin movements measuring a mere
3.30 mm thick have a 65-hour power reserve thanks to their two stacked barrels – L.U.C
Twin technology.
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L.U.C XP
The L.U.C XP watch is the ultimate expression of classicism according to Chopard
Manufacture. Discreet and elegant in terms of its design codes, it is equally so in size,
since this ultra-thin model measuring less than 7 mm thick – 6.98 mm to be accurate –
has a diameter of 39.5 mm. Its user-friendly mechanical self-winding L.U.C Calibre 96.17-L
(L.U.C 96HM) is equipped with a 22-carat gold micro-rotor type oscillating weight and has
a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, a guarantee of precision and reliability. The L.U.C
XP watch, available in 18-carat white or rose gold, was named Watch of the Year 2006 in
the “ultra-thin” category by the jury of the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix.
Indications Hours, minutes
Movement L.U.C 96.17.L (L.U.C 96HM), self-winding (page 176)
Diameter 27.40 mm
Thickness 3.30 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 29
Case
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 6.98 mm
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L.U.C XP
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 6.98 mm
L.U.C XP
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 6.98 mm
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L.U.C XP Urushi
If one were to sum up the L.U.C XP Urushi watches in a few words, they might best be
described as blending the quintessence of ancestral Japanese art with the highest degree
of Swiss horological refinement. Born from the encounter between Chopard and Japanese
artist Kiichiro Masumura, proclaimed “Living National Treasure” by the authorities of his
home country, they showcase the traditional techniques of Urushi and Maki-e.
Urushi is an ancestral Japanese art of lacquering. The varnish is made from the sap of the
Urushi tree, also known as the “lacquer tree” or the “Japanese varnish tree”, and which
mainly grows in Japan and China. The harvesting of the resin can only be done once a year
and in very small quantities. Three to five years after being harvested, the resin is treated
to make an extremely resistant, honey-textured lacquer. It is applied in exceptionally fine
successive layers.
Maki-e is a specific Urushi technique that consists of sprinkling the lacquer with metal
powder – in this case gold – in order to accentuate its contours. The gold dust is applied
using bamboo tubes and small brushes made from rat’s hair, in order to trace extremely
fine lines.
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L.U.C XP Urushi
Such works of art could not have hoped for a finer setting than that of the L.U.C XP.
This supremely elegant ultra-thin model measuring a mere 6.98 mm thick is the
epitome of perfect watchmaking mastery. Designing and producing a mechanical selfwinding movement equipped with two barrels and a 65-hour power reserve that could
be accommodated within such a thin case is a truly impressive accomplishment. The
watchmakers of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier have achieved this feature by means of
a clever construction based on an off-centred micro-rotor. The designers have also subtly
worked the round case with its broad 39.50 mm diameter to give it a sleeker profile with
a flat bezel and an extremely fine “caseband”. The result is a set of light, dynamic and
supremely balanced lines.
Featuring an 18-carat gold case fitted with a black alligator leather strap, the L.U.C XP
Urushi models are delivered with a special presentation box also decorated according
to Urushi techniques. Black on the outside and adorned in Maki-e gold on the inside, its
octagonal shape is an oriental symbol of gaiety. A small silk cord serving as a lock, along
with the seal of Kiichiro Masumura, endow this object with a truly timeless dimension.
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L.U.C XP Urushi
The L.U.C XP Urushi watches are available in 18-carat white or rose gold with various
meticulously hand-painted dial variations featuring a wealth of original details imbued
with a deep sense of poetry. These works represent the five basic elements of the universe
according to the ancient philosophy of Chinese natural science. Five legendary creatures –
the dragon with a blue horn, the phoenix, the qilin in the moonlight, the crouching tiger
and the genbu (a blend of precious snake and tortoise) – respectively evoke wood, fire,
earth, metal and water. The other dials of the line feature a peacock, a goldfish, the jungle
and the universe.
Movement L.U.C 96.17-L (L.U.C 96HM), self-winding (page 176)
Diameter 27.40 mm
Thickness 3.30 mm
Power reserve approximately 65 hours, L.U.C Twin technology (twin superimposed barrels)
Balance With three spokes
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 29
Case
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 6.98 mm
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather strap with pin buckle in 18-carat gold
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L.U.C XP Urushi
Material 18ct rose gold
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 6.98 mm
L.U.C XP Urushi
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 6.98 mm
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L.U.C XP Urushi
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 6.98 mm
L.U.C XP Urushi
Diameter 39.50 mm
L.U.C XP Urushi
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 6.98 mm
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L.U.C XP Urushi
Material 18ct white gold
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 6.98 mm
L.U.C XP Urushi
Material 18ct white gold
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 6.98 mm
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L.U.C XPS
The L.U.C XPS model combines the discretion of extreme slenderness with the technical
sophistication of the small seconds appearing at 6 o’clock. This function enables it to earn
chronometer certification by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), a
guarantee of the precision and reliability of its L.U.C Calibre 96.12-L (L.U.C 12.96) movement,
visible through its transparent case-back. The embodiment of good taste and timelessly
understated distinction, the L.U.C XPS watch is available in 18-carat white or rose gold.
Diameter 27.40 mm
Thickness 3.30 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 29
Case
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 7.13 mm
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L.U.C XPS
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 7.13 mm
L.U.C XPS
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 7.13 mm
L.U.C XPS
Diameter 39.50 mm
Thickness 7.13 mm
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L.U.C XP Tonneau
The stylistic exercise of the tonneau or barrel-shaped watch is never insignificant. It
testifies not only to a mastery of extremely distinctive aesthetic codes, but also to that
of the most sophisticated watchmaking techniques. The L.U.C XP Tonneau is no exception
to this rule. Its dial, built around a 6 – 12 o’clock symmetrical axis, radiates a supremely
elegant equilibrium. Its chapter ring combining applied Arabic numerals and elegantly
redesigned Dauphine hour-markers is a model of sobriety. The overall effect, highlighted
by an extremely slender bezel and discreet lugs, exudes an impression of classicism
to which the generously sized (40 x 37 mm) tonneau shape adds the perfect touch of
originality and character.
The transparent case-back reveals L.U.C Calibre 97.03-L (L.U.C 3.97) and confirms that this
model complies with one of the fundamental principles of Haute Horlogerie: a shaped
watch deserves a shaped calibre. Like most L.U.C calibres, this mechanical self-winding
movement is equipped with a 22-carat gold micro-rotor, the inertia of which, combined
with a bidirectional winding system and a double barrel, ensures a 65-hour power reserve.
Measuring a mere 3.30 mm thick, it drives the hour, minute, small seconds and date
functions. Its precision, guaranteed by an escapement frequency of 28,800 vibrations
per hour, serves to earn it the chronometer certification issued by the Swiss Official
Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and proudly mentioned on the dial.
Despite the tonneau design that makes it particularly difficult to ensure water resistance
due to the unusual shape of the glasses and gaskets, the L.U.C XP Tonneau is indeed
watertight to a depth of 50 metres. It is available in 18-carat white or rose gold.
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L.U.C XP Tonneau
Thanks to its scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, the transparent case-back of the L.U.C XP
Tonneau watch provides ample views of the mechanical self-winding L.U.C Calibre
97.03-L (L.U.C 3.97), designed, developed and assembled by Chopard Manufacture. Its
mainplate is circular grained, its micro-rotor in 22-carat gold is adorned with a sunburst
guilloché motif, and its bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, while the technical
details are engraved in fine gold lettering. The result is a stunning vision of perfect beauty
and technical sophistication.
Thickness 3.30 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 29
Case
Thickness 7.22 mm
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L.U.C XP Tonneau
Size 40.00 x 37.00 mm
Thickness 7.22 mm
L.U.C XP Tonneau
Size 40.00 x 37.00 mm
Thickness 7.22 mm
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L.U.C Tech Twist
Because it was well ahead of its time and revolutionised party codes, the twist made an
indelible imprint on collective memory. Like this dance symbolising the “Magic Sixties”,
the L.U.C Tech Twist watch overturns certain classic watchmaking codes while remaining
true to their essence. A simple “five-minute” or 30° rotation of its movement lends it a
truly unique character, offsetting the winding-crown from 3 to 4 o’clock and matching it
with an asymmetrical crown guard and small seconds shifted from 6 to 7 o’clock.
In terms of its movement, the L.U.C Tech Twist watch makes an extremely clear-cut
choice: that of respect for the purest watchmaking traditions. Its mechanical self-winding
L.U.C Calibre 96.18-L (L.U.C 96T) has been entirely designed, developed and assembled by
Chopard in keeping with these time-honoured codes: a 3.30 mm ultra-thin movement
chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), a 65-hour
power reserve ensured by two stacked barrels, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour,
and exceptional finishing. Featuring a respectably sized 41 mm case, the L.U.C Tech Twist
is in fact a classic watch that cleverly conceals its true nature.
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L.U.C Tech Twist
The highly technical character conferred by its dial opening onto the movement is
reinforced by the overall asymmetrical effect that makes it look very much like a “timemeasuring machine”. The extremely contemporary side of the design nonetheless detracts
nothing from the refined finishing, as evidenced by the decoration of the L.U.C Calibre
96.18-L (L.U.C 96T) and its gear wheels, as well as that of the bridge carrying the small
seconds. This component, featuring a brushed surface and mirror-polished angles, creates
a striking contrast with the black or blue chapter ring and serves as a reminder that Haute
Horlogerie is first and foremost a matter of details, of expertise, and of tradition. The L.U.C
Tech Twist watch is available in steel, 18-carat white gold and rose gold, respectively issued
in limited series of 500, 250 and 250.
Movement L.U.C 96.18-L (L.U.C 96T), self-winding (page 177)
Diameter 27.40 mm
Thickness 3.30 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 28
Case
Diameter 41.00 mm
Thickness 10.00 mm
Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather with pin buckle in 18-carat gold or steel
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L.U.C Tech Twist
Diameter 41.00 mm
Limited edition 250
L.U.C Tech Twist
Diameter 41.00 mm
Limited edition 500
L.U.C Tech Twist
Diameter 41.00 mm
Limited edition 250
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Fleurier Quality
In the field of certification, one rule overrides all others: a quality label placed on a product,
whatever it may be, is valuable only if the label is granted by an independent body. For
obvious reasons of objectivity, nobody should be a judge in his own cause.
In order to guarantee the quality of some of its models, Chopard Manufacture has therefore
chosen to call upon the Fleurier Quality Foundation, an official certification body created
in 2001 and operating under the supervision of a Technical Committee and a Foundation
Board. The independence of these two bodies is ensured by the support of Swiss public
authorities, including the Swiss Federal Government itself.
The certification process they implement consists of a succession of stages aiming to
guarantee not only the watch movement’s precision, but also its reliability, its durability
and the quality of its aesthetic finish.
The precision is first of all tested by a benchmark in this field, the Swiss Official Chronometer
Testing Institute – the COSC – the only official body in Switzerland entitled to issue
chronometer certificates.
Durability and reliability are then verified by means of the “Chronofiable” test procedure:
a representative sample of models are subjected to tests covering ageing and exposure to
heat, cold and humidity, as well as to repeated pulling and pushing on the winding-stem,
to magnetic fields and to violent impacts. These various operations endured over a full
three weeks are designed to reproduce real-life wearing conditions.
And finally, the precision of these watches is once again tested on the “Fleuritest” machine
which verifies their smooth operation over a 24-hour period.
It is thus clearly the global quality of the watch that is tested and guaranteed by the Fleurier
Quality Foundation label. The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier models house L.U.C Calibre 96.09-L
(L.U.C 9.96), designed, developed and assembled by Chopard Manufacture. Submitted to
the stringent battery of tests performed under the Fleurier Quality Foundation certification
process, they both bear the prestigious label of quality acknowledged as one of the most
demanding in the world.
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L.U.C Tech Qualité Fleurier
In harmony with its transparency concept, the L.U.C Tech Qualité Fleurier watch features a
dial generously revealing its L.U.C Calibre 96.09-L (L.U.C 9.96), chronometer certified by the
Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and endowed with a 65-hour power
reserve. The Côtes de Genève decoration of the mainplate makes a fine contrast with the
black chapter ring featuring a circular-brushed finish bearing applied Arabic numerals.
Transparency and quality are indeed the keynotes of this watch bearing the prestigious
Fleurier Quality Foundation label, one of the most demanding in the watch industry. It is
issued in a limited series of 250 in 18-carat white gold.
Certifications COSC certificate, Fleurier Quality Foundation certificate
Diameter 27.40 mm
Thickness 3.30 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 29
Case
Diameter 39.00 mm
Thickness 9.47 mm
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L.U.C Tech Qualité Fleurier
Diameter 39.00 mm
Limited edition 250
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L.U.C Quattro
Beneath its apparent simplicity, the L.U.C Quattro proudly proclaims its innate complexity
and its performances. On the front, the understated purity of its dial, simply enhanced by
applied Roman numerals, enables it to display essentials: hours, minutes, and an amazing
9-day power reserve at 12 o’clock. The small seconds and date are shown in a clever way,
since the two hands are positioned on the same subdial, and yet read-off is made extremely
easy by two concentric scales. On the other side, its 43 mm-diameter 18-carat gold case
is fitted with a transparent sapphire crystal back serving to admire its mechanical handwound movement, L.U.C Calibre 98.01-L (L.U.C 1.98). A 216-hour power reserve is ensured
by a device composed of four barrels in two stacked sets, based on technology exclusive to
Chopard Manufacture. Its origins and its exceptional level of finishing earn it the rare and
much-coveted Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, while its precision is accredited by the
chronometer certificate issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
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L.U.C Quattro
The new L.U.C Quattro watch is a classic yet distinctive model. Its generously sized
43 mm-diameter case is able to house L.U.C Calibre 98.01-L (L.U.C 1.98), a tour de force
in that despite its extreme finesse, the latter has a 9-day power reserve thanks to L.U.C
Quattro technology – two sets of two stacked barrels. In addition to the hours and
minutes, the watch focuses on the most useful functions, meaning the date and the
power-reserve which is essential on this hand-wound type of movement. This model is
not only chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC),
but also bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, and is available in
18-carat white or rose gold.
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power-reserve indicator
Movement L.U.C 98.01-L (L.U.C 1.98), hand-wound (page 180)
Diameter 28.60 mm
Thickness 3.70 mm
Jewels 39
Case
Diameter 43.00 mm
Thickness 8.87 mm
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L.U.C Quattro
Diameter 43.00 mm
L.U.C Quattro
Diameter 43.00 mm
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A close-up look at a few professions
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PROFESSIONS
Research & Development:
Engineer – Technical Department
For Chopard Manufacture, creating a new watch means first creating a new calibre, and it
is the engineers of the Technical Department – the “movement design engineers” – who
handle this fundamental and formative task.
The process begins with ideas, with plans, with visualising a concept. It is only once this
initial “roughing out” phase has progressed sufficiently that their task can begin. Using
sophisticated computer-assisted design software, they begin building the movement much
like micromechanical architects, incorporating the various mechanisms and complications
as foreseen in the technical specifications they were given.
Their approach is also guided by a constant concern for innovation that can lend genuine
added value to each new calibre: enhanced profitability, less wear, greater precision, easier
repairs… With the help of researchers from the Chopard Technologies division, they may
also decide to make use of new materials such as silicon, or various new processes.
Based on the detailed plans that they produce and pass on to the calibre-makers, the
latter then create movement prototypes in order to verify their smooth operation or to
recommend corrective measures that are then integrated within the work of the movement
design engineers. These exchanges among experts aimed at fine-tuning a calibre may last
for years. They culminate in the production of a pre-series of around 20 prototypes, some
of which will be actually worn, and others submitted to the watchmaking laboratory for
thorough testing. Since 1996 and the founding of Chopard Manufacture, nine movement
families have been developed in this way, leading to the filing of numerous patent
applications, including five for L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE) alone, the recent and most
complex of them all with its 516 components and 14 complications.
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PROFESSIONS
Design workshop: the designer
Deliberately running counter to one of the principles of Haute Horlogerie which holds that
a movement is usually created in accordance with the watch that will house it, Chopard
Manufacture focuses primarily on inventing calibres for which its designers then take
charge of creating the external features – case, glass, strap, hands and dial – serving to
highlight their technical and aesthetic characteristics.
Most models are fitted with transparent case-backs providing views of the movement’s
technical structure but also and above all of the exceptional finishing details: circular
graining, Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished sinks, specular polished screw heads and
hand-bevelled bridges. In the case of the “Tech” models, the choice of using dials with
broad openings is also intended to showcase not only the functions, but also the beauty
of the movement.
Generally speaking, the dials of the L.U.C collection all share a distinctive aesthetic
personality based on a range of features that owe nothing to chance. Whether satinbrushed or finely guilloché-worked, most are adorned with a sunburst motif centred
on the Chopard logo. The typeface of the Arabic numerals they carry is equally specific
and inspired by the men’s watches typical of the 1940s and 1950s. When it comes to the
Roman numerals, their distinctive yet elegant style reflects that of the ultra-thin watches
created by Chopard in the 1950s. The long and slender Dauphine appliques are teamed
with Dauphine hands, all specially designed for the L.U.C collection. The refinement of the
case also stems from the sophisticated shapes that appear to evolve according to the angle
from which they are admired, and feature finishes combining vertical satin-brushing of
the case-middle sides, sunburst satin-brushed finishing on the top and mirror polishing of
the sides of the bezel and the back, as well as polishing on the upper and lower surfaces
of the lugs… A wealth of details designed to ensure a perfect appearance.
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PROFESSIONS
Casting workshop: gold caster
Within the world of watch and jewellery manufacturers, in-house gold casting is truly
exceptional. Why should a company make its own alloys? Naturally so as to control the
quality, but also in order to respond to the inherently irregular nature of its own workshops’
requirements.
Starting with fine gold ingots, Chopard Manufacture has chosen to produce five categories
of 18-carat gold: a white gold shade, two shades of yellow gold and two shades of rose
gold. These alloys are obtained by casting mixtures composed of 750/1000 fine gold (the
prerequisite for earning the legal “18-carat gold” title) with other metals that give them
not only the desired colour but also the degree of hardness that is indispensable to the
jeweller’s work. Fine gold is indeed too malleable to be worked as required. Among the
metals used in the alloys cast by Chopard Manufacture are silver and copper, which serve
to produce rose gold, and palladium for producing white gold.
The gold caster then proceeds in much the same way as a master chef in his kitchen:
gold is made according to an extremely precise recipe, using carefully controlled gestures.
Nothing is left to chance, for while the choice and correct dosage of the ingredients is
essential, the procedure itself is equally crucial. The slightest mistake of handling, of
temperature or of firing time could render the gold porous and thus totally unfit for use.
Once the various materials needed for the alloy are combined within the crucible, the
latter is fired at an extremely high temperature in a magnetic induction oven. Each alloy
calls for its own specific temperature, and rose gold for example must be fired at 1000°C.
Once the metals are molten and mixed, the gold is poured into an ingot. The latter is
rolled and fired again several more times in order to achieve the correct degree of the final
alloy, and it is not until the Swiss Precious Metals Control has conducted its analysis and
placed its official punchmark guaranteeing a 75% ratio of fine gold that it is ready for use.
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PROFESSIONS
Micromechanical workshops: machine operator
When it comes to production, everything begins at the hands of the machine operator
working in the micromechanical workshop, which is the first to receive the raw materials
from which the movements are to be made. The movement ébauche, for example, composed
of the mainplate and bridges, is machined from brass discs. To achieve this, the operator
uses computer numerically controlled machines which, with the help of various tools,
successively mill, tap and bevel these small metal discs to a 2-micron level of precision.
Only in certain specific cases where it is deemed more reliable is manual work regarded
as preferable. Such is for example the case of trimming, which is done “by hand and by
sight”. It is indeed virtually impossible for machines, however precise and sophisticated,
not to leave traces or tiny quantities of material on each part, and the task of timing must
thus be done by hand in so-called “correcting” operations.
The steel parts, generally called by their French name fournitures, are cut out from steel
bars by wire electrical discharge machining. This process involves an electrically charged
metal wire that cuts the metal by producing a spark. The parts are electronically controlled
because precision is all important here, with less than micron-level tolerances.
By mastering a variety of multiple production technologies, Chopard Manufacture can
avoid the risks inherent in subcontracting and thus ensure reliable supply flows, guaranteed
lead times, and of course superior quality. That is exactly why, ever since its founding in
1996, it has opted for in-house production of virtually all its movement components.
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PROFESSIONS
Decoration workshops: beveller (chamferer)
Although not immediately apparent in its name, the purpose of this profession is to
decorate all specially shaped movement parts (bridges, levers, jumper-springs, etc.) – the
components that hold together the mobile parts of a movement and are thus its most
visible parts.
So why does the French term for this decorative process include the idea of “angles”? The
bridges in question all feature sharp 90° angles when they emerge from machining. In
order to create the contrasts that will accentuate their outlines, the bevellers “chamfer”
these edges, meaning filing them down to polished 45° angles. They also polish the
sinks – sometimes referred to as “mouldings” – meaning the concave chamfers around
the screw heads. This is done using tiny cutters or diamond-tipped grinding-wheels
rotating at 40,000 rpm.
In the case of hand bevelling, they also opt to use an extremely thin metal file coated with
abrasive paper. This manual technique, which is naturally more difficult to implement,
will enable her to create so-called “interior” angles at the intersection of two chamfers.
An experienced eye can indeed appraise the quality of the work of a beveller in a given
watch decoration by the number and the nature of these interior angles.
As far as the upper surface of the bridges are concerned, the beveller deals only with the
thinnest ones, such as the tourbillon bridge. The other larger surfaces are decorated with
adornments such as circular graining, satin brushing and Côtes de Genève, all performed
by an artisan other than the beveller. The upper face of the tourbillon bridge is generally
given a “specular” or “mirror” finish, meaning a polish so perfect that the complete absence
of any flaws or bumps enable it to absorb the light.
In all, the complete decoration of a tourbillon bridge – bevelling the edges and the sinks,
drawing out the flanks, specular polishing the surface – may take an experienced beveller
over four hours.
That’s what it takes to ensure true horological beauty.
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PROFESSIONS
Decoration workshops: electroplater
Electroplating consists in using electrolytic processes to apply layers of metal to parts
that are themselves in metal in order to protect and embellish them.
An electroplating workshop is therefore first and foremost a set of liquid vats serving
as baths for coating, washing and rinsing. The parts arrive there from the decoration
workshops where they have been treated to a wide range of finishes including bevelling,
circular graining, hand drawing, Côtes de Genève and engraving. Most have been the
object of many hours of hand craftsmanship, and their cost price is so high that their
handling and treatment call for extreme care.
The parts are mostly in brass, a metal that tends to oxidise over time or simply by being
touched. They will thus need to be protected by a stainless metal such as gold or rhodium.
They are first immersed in solutions designed to eliminate any traces of grease, and
then an electrolytic bath conducted at a voltage of 7 to 10 volts. The amperage and the
duration of the bath are both determined by the total surface area to be treated. After
several rinses, the parts are soaked in an electrolytic “activation” bath, an extremely acid
solution intended to neutralise any trace of soap and to “activate” their surface, meaning
to render it more fit to receive and retain a layer of metal. The first layer of nickel applied
is designed to serve as an additional barrier against corrosion and also to facilitate the
adherence of the finishing layer. Then come the colouring baths that will give them their
final colour, after which four gold colours – 5N, 4N, 3N, 2N – and two rhodium colours –
white and black – are available. Once this stage is complete, a last degreasing and a final
“activation” operation are performed. After being rinsed in pure water and dried, the parts
have acquired their definitive appearance and are ready to be sent to the workshop of
the watchmaker who will assemble them.
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PROFESSIONS
Assembly workshops: precision timer
This profession is still exercised in a handful of authentic Manufactures that have chosen
to continue performing in-house one of the most original and specific of all watchmaking
operations: shaping the terminal curve of the balance spring. This tiny flat spring forming
a spiral – hence its French name, spiral – determines the frequency of the balance, and
thus the precision of the watch itself.
The precision timer first adjusts the balance spring to size by cutting a few coils from the
centre in order to adapt the dimension of this central empty space to that of the collet.
The collet resembles a small cylinder with a side slot into which the artisan slides the
inner end of the balance spring and then blocks it with a pin, an operation called virolage
or “pinning up to the collet”.
After assembly of the collet and balance wheel comes the most delicate operation of
all: shaping the terminal curve. The goal is to enable the balance spring to develop
concentrically in the course of its expansions and contractions, thereby avoiding an
imbalance that could lead to gain or loss in time. To achieve this, the precision timer
shapes the terminal coil, first in an upward direction, while creating a slight slope. At the
top of the slope, two new twists are made in order to place it perfectly parallel with the
other coils, as well as to reduce its radius of curvature.
The following stage involves fitting the stud on the outer end of the terminal curve. This
microscopic part, the role of which is to join the balance-bridge and its spring, is secured
to the latter by means of a pin the size of an eyelash! This is also the means used by the
régleuse – who certainly deserves her French name which also literally means “adjuster” –
in making a preliminary adjustment of the frequency of the assembled regulating organ,
by shifting the stud along the outer end of the balance spring. It will then be up to the
watchmaker, using the index-assembly, to make the final adjustment or rating that will
give the watch its required level of precision.
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PROFESSIONS
Assembly workshops:
complications watchmaker
The profession of complications watchmaker consists in assembling and adjusting the
most complex models produced by the Manufacture, such as those equipped with a
tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, or a striking mechanism. Their task is very much like
putting together a three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle that may comprise over 350 parts,
and which comes with a set of technical documents detailing the specific features of the
calibre and signalling the pitfalls to be avoided.
Starting from there, they assemble the movement themselves from A to Z, from driving in
the studs to jewelling – meaning fitting the jewels in the mainplate and bridges – right
the way through to final assembly, casing up and even testing the water-resistance of
the watch “head”.
In assembling the movement, the main difficulty they admit to encountering may prove
surprising: whereas one might think the challenge would lie in the size of the parts
being handled – some are truly microscopic and could easily be blown away in a single
breath – their main concern is in fact to avoid damaging them, such as by an accidental
knock with a screwdriver. This would be particularly unfortunate in that most of these
parts have by then been treated to meticulous and costly operations such as polishing,
circular graining, bevelling and electroplating.
For the most sophisticated calibres, this meticulous work may therefore take up to three
weeks and assembling a single tourbillon carriage takes two and a half days in itself. Once
the components are assembled, the watchmakers must then adjust the movement in
order to ensure its accuracy before being submitted to the Swiss Official Chronometer
Testing Institute. These phases, known as “achevage” and “setting into motion”, consist
in adjusting and where required modifying the tiny parts forming the regulating organ:
the lever, the balance spring and the balance wheel. These “microsurgical” operations
are performed by hand and under a microscope, because of the micron-level tolerances
involved. In this respect, the daily work of these self-styled “professional hair-splitters”
literally borders on perfection.
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L.U.C calibres
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L.U.C calibres
The founding of Chopard Manufacture in 1996 stemmed from Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s
determination to enable Chopard to gain full legitimacy in the field of Haute Horlogerie.
He also wanted to strike the right balance for the brand’s watch collection by offering
clients timepieces with rich content; by highlighting its watchmaking expertise within a
dedicated and technically well equipped entity; and finally, in accordance with its corporate
philosophy, by enhancing its level of independence and integration.
Today, Chopard Manufacture fully deserves its name, since it brings together under one
roof dozens of professions enabling it to design, develop and produce its timepieces from A
to Z. But it is doubtless in the domain of the calibres created to date that its achievements
are most eloquent. Since 1996, no less than nine movement families encompassing over
50 variations have been developed, representing a magnificent accomplishment for such
a recently established watch manufacture. And the remarkable nature of these impressive
technical resources is also due to their sheer diversity, since they now encompass almost
the entire range of complications.
The current movement collection thus includes the most classic models, such as the dual
time zone or the chronograph, as well the ultra-thin calibre – a complication in its own right
given the difficulty of creating and operating it. Others are far more complex, such as the
perpetual calendar, the tourbillon, or the hourly strike of L.U.C Calibre 96.14-L (L.U.C 96SH).
This range of calibres also comprises a number of major innovations representing landmark achievements, such as the L.U.C Twin technology with its double barrel ensuring a
65-hour power reserve; the orbital moon phase with its totally innovative display; and the
Variner® balance wheel with inertia-blocks incorporated into the rim. It is also grounded
on a philosophy that places concern for aesthetics and for fine craftsmanship at the very
heart of its approach to creating movements.
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
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Quality is a core concern for Chopard Manufacture. This quality is expressed through the
precision, the reliability, the durability and the fine craftsmanship of its timepieces. It is
based on an approach that permeates the entire process of design, development and
production. Orchestrated by Chopard Manufacture’s in-house Watchmaking Laboratory,
these stages are defined by the ISO 9001 norm implemented by Chopard Manufacture in
1998. Nonetheless, when it comes to quality control, nothing can surpass the objectivity
of an external body, which is why the manufacture works with several such organisations
which are benchmarks in this domain.
COSC certification
The Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certifies the precision of the
movements. This non-profit official body is state recognised and its official watch rating
offices are three laboratories located in Biel, Le Locle and Geneva – each of which has earned
accreditation as a “Swiss Calibration Service” laboratory granted by the Swiss Accreditation
Service. In accordance with the ISO 3159 norm, it conducts an exhaustive examination
of all calibres that are submitted to it via a battery of tests lasting 16 days. During these
384 hours, the precision of mechanical movements is measured in five positions and at
three different temperatures. Whatever these conditions, the movements must maintain
a precision ranging between -4 and +6 seconds per day for calibres measuring less than
20 mm in diameter, and between -5 and +8 seconds for smaller calibres. Movements
meeting the precision criteria are granted a chronometer certificate – a privilege reserved
for only 3% of total watch production in Switzerland.
Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF)
The Fleurier Quality Foundation is another independent body to which Chopard
Manufacture resorts in order to test the quality of its timepieces. The procedure is even
more comprehensive in that, in addition to submitting the movements to the Swiss Official
Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) in order to guarantee precision, the watches are
tested as a whole in order to appraise their overall quality. The Chronofiable test verifies
the durability of its movement by subjecting it to an ageing cycle, a cycle measuring
pull-push forces on the winding stem, as well as tests of resistance to magnetic fields;
and finally a shock-resistance test using a dedicated striker. The watch must also comply
with the numerous specific technical and aesthetic criteria contained in the technical
regulations of the Fleurier Quality Foundation (involving the choice of materials, of
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decorative techniques, and of finishes). Finally, the rate of the finished watch must be
tested on the Fleuritest machine, which replicates the conditions implied by 24 hours of
wear in the most realistic possible way, and checks that the variation in rate falls within 0
and +5 seconds per day. It is only when the watch has successfully passed all these phases
that it is deemed worthy to receive to the Fleurier Quality Foundation label.
Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark
The third and last external label of quality to which Chopard Manufacture submits some
of its models is the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. This label, created in
1886 in order to protect Genevan watchmaking, involves three fundamental conditions
of admission and 12 qualifying criteria. A watch is thus only eligible if its movement
is assembled and adjusted in Canton Geneva, if it is numbered, and if it meets the
craftsmanship criteria established by the Technical Committee. These 12 criteria involve
the finishing of the parts (chamfered and hand-drawn bridges, polished sinks, chamfered
going train) and their characteristics (type of balance wheel-spring pinning, type of
index, thickness of the escape wheel), as well as the non-use of certain parts such as wire
springs. The Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark is an all-in-one guarantee of origin, of
craftsmanship and of durability.
By calling upon the objectivity of independent certification bodies, Choaprd Manufacture
ensures the quality of its timepieces while showing respect for the trust placed in it by
its clients. But that is not its only objective, since this approach also serves as a constant
source of stimulation in its ongoing quest for excellence.
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
The nine L.U.C base calibres and a few variations
created by Chopard Manufacture since 1996
L.U.C 96.01-L (L.U.C 1.96)
L.U.C 96.03-L (L.U.C 3.96)
L.U.C 96.04-L (L.U.C 4.96)
L.U.C 96.04-L3 (L.U.C 4.96 “2000”)
L.U.C 96.04-L1 (L.U.C 4.96 “Sport”)
L.U.C 96.04-L2 (L.U.C 4.96 “ProOne”)
L.U.C 96.06-L (L.U.C 4.96-H1 “GMT”)
L.U.C 96.13-L (L.U.C 96QP)
L.U.C 96.12-L (L.U.C 12.96)
L.U.C 96.09-L (L.U.C 9.96)
L.U.C 96.16-L (L.U.C 96M)
L.U.C 96.14-L (L.U.C 96SH)
L.U.C 96.15-L (L.U.C 96H24)
L.U.C 96.17-L (L.U.C 96HM)
L.U.C 96.11-L (L.U.C 11.96)
L.U.C 96.14-L1 (L.U.C 96SHT)
L.U.C 96.18-L (L.U.C 96T)
L.U.C 96.19-L (L.U.C 96TB)
L.U.C 97.01-L (L.U.C 1.97)
L.U.C 97.03-L (L.U.C 3.97)
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L.U.C 98.01-L (L.U.C 1.98)
L.U.C 98.02-L (L.U.C 1.98-37089)
L.U.C 98.05-L (L.U.C 4R)
L.U.C 98.03-L (L.U.C 4RT)
L.U.C 02.01-L (L.U.C 1.02)
L.U.C 02.05-L (L.U.C 4T)
L.U.C 02.03-L (L.U.C 4TT)
L.U.C 02.10-L (L.U.C 4TT3N)
L.U.C 02.10-L1 (L.U.C 4TT3NGM)
L.U.C 02.08-L (L.U.C 4TSL)
L.U.C 02.11-L (L.U.C 4TBST)
L.U.C 02.12-L (L.U.C 4TBSTSi)
L.U.C 02.13-L (L.U.C 1.02QF)
L.U.C 03.03-L (L.U.C 11CF)
L.U.C 04.01-L (L.U.C 1TRM)
L.U.C 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE)
L.U.C 01.01-L (L.U.C 1.010)
L.U.C 06.01-L (L.U.C EHG)
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L
(L.U.C 4TQE)
L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L (L.U.C 4TQE), created for Chopard’s 150th anniversary, is a compendium
of watchmaking skills and a concentrated blend of the expertise patiently acquired by
Chopard Manufacture since its founding in 1996. This micromechanical masterpiece,
composed of 516 parts and featuring manual winding, incorporates two sets of two
stacked barrels – the exclusive L.U.C Quattro technology – ensuring an over one-week
power reserve. It comprises a set of exceptional astronomical complications spread over
both sides. Its tourbillon carriage equipped with a balance spring featuring a Phillips
terminal curve, and an exclusive Variner® balance wheel guarantee a degree of precision
attested to by a chronometer rating certificate issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer
Testing Institute (COSC). The extreme care devoted to its conception and finishing, as
well as its place of adjustment and assembly, entitle it to carry the prestigious Poinçon
de Genève quality hallmark.
Functions Tourbillon, perpetual calendar, equation of time, moon phases
Indications [Dial side] Hours, minutes, 1-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock carrying the small
seconds hand, perpetual calendar with date display at 12 o’clock, day and 24-hour indicator at
9 o’clock, months and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock
[Case-back side] Power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, equation of time at 10 o’clock, sunset
time at 8 o’clock*, sunrise time at 4 o’clock*, day/night indicator at 2 o’clock, orbital moon
phase at 6 o’clock
Certifications COSC certificate, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark
Type of winding Hand-wound
Diameter 33.00 mm (14’’’ V )
Thickness 11.75 mm
Power reserve Approx. 170 hours (meaning 7 days), L.U.C Quattro technology four barrels
(two sets of two stacked barrels)
Frequency 4Hz, 28,800 vph (vibrations per hour)
Decorations Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate
Jewels 42
Number of parts 516
Models L.U.C 150 “All-in-One” (page 48)
*sunrise and sunset times in Geneva.
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 1TRM)
Entirely designed, developed and produced by Chopard Manufacture, this mechanical
hand-wound calibre also bears the imprint of the passion for motor sports nurtured by
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. Inspired by the mechanical beauty of cars, its design echoes that
of an engine block. To protect it from vibrations, it is mounted on silent blocks. Its tourbillon,
equipped with an aluminium carriage and a balance spring with Phillips terminal curve,
ensures extreme precision guaranteed by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute
(COSC). In addition to the hours and minutes, it displays the small seconds directly on the
tourbillon carriage and has a power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock.
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon carriage,
power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock.
Dimensions 34.00 x 25.90 mm (15’’’ x 11’’’ V )
Thickness 5.60 mm
Decorations Nickel silver bridges and mainplate, grained motif on the bridges
Jewels 29
Number of parts 209
Models L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon (page 66)
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C EHG)
This calibre created to equip a pocket-watch was jointly developed by Chopard Manufacture
and the Geneva Watchmaking School. It enables the apprentices of this prestigious
institution to make their “school piece”, a landmark in any watchmaker’s career, while
also providing Chopard Manufacture with a chance to affirm its support for the training
of young watchmakers for the next 30 years. Featuring a 60-hour power reserve but
only hour, minute and seconds functions, it conceals its complexity and its refinement
within its mechanism: chamfered nickel silver bridges, Côtes de Genève decoration, finely
gilded inscriptions and a swan’s-neck index assembly are the kind of details that entitle
it to bear the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Meanwhile, its precision
is guaranteed by the chronometer certificate issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer
Testing Institute (COSC).
Diameter 43.20 mm (19’’’)
Thickness 5.50 mm
Balance wheel With two spokes, with screws
Balance spring Flat
Decorations Nickel silver bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate
Jewels 20
Number of parts 148
Models L.U.C Louis-Ulysse – The Tribute (page 54)
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 11CF)
Any Haute Horlogerie manufacture needs to have an excellent chronograph movement
in its technical portfolio. Mission accomplished for Chopard Manufacture since 2006, the
date of its 10th anniversary. The exceptional chronograph movement, L.U.C Calibre 03.03-L,
is fully integrated and features a column-wheel system and a vertical coupling clutch
equipped with a friction organ in a viscoelastic material. Three other patented devices
further enhance its reliability and its user friendliness. The first is a zero-reset mechanism
via three supple hammers ensuring an optimal return of the three hands and absorption
of the resulting shock. Secondly, the watch can be set to time with great accuracy because
L.U.C Calibre 03.03-L (L.U.C 11CF) has a small seconds reset system coupled with a stop
seconds device. And finally the automatic winding system is self-locking in order ensure
optimal winding in either direction of the oscillating weight thanks to its gear system. Its
excellent performances along with the precision ensured by its Variner® balance wheel
enable L.U.C Calibre 03.03-L to earn chronometer certification from the Swiss Official
Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Functions Flyback chronograph
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronographs seconds hand, hour counter,
minute counter
Type of winding Bidirectional self-winding
Diameter 28.80 mm (12’’’ X )
Thickness 7.60 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 45
Number of parts 359
Models L.U.C Chrono One (page 104)
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 1.010)
L.U.C Calibre 01.01-L (L.U.C 1.010) laid a significant milestone in the history of L.U.C movements.
This mechanical self-winding movement created for Chopard’s 150th anniversary represents
an investment in the future of its watch collection. Endowed with a 60-hour power reserve,
it has a stop seconds device to facilitate time-setting and its precision is guaranteed by a
chronometer rating certificate issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute
(COSC). But it is in fact its technological level that makes it such an exceptional calibre and
endows it with countless qualities including extremely easy assembly and maintenance,
remarkable reliability, as well as great robustness.
Certifications COSC
Diameter 28.80 mm (12’’’ X )
Thickness 4.95 mm
Balance wheel With four spokes, micro-regulator with screws
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 31
Number of parts 207
Models L.U.C 1937 (page 58) and L.U.C 1937 Classic (page 60)
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 1.96)
L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L was the first movement created by Chopard Manufacture after its
founding. In this respect, it symbolises the company’s return to the extremely select circle
of authentic Haute Horlogerie manufactures. The creation and launch of this ultra-thin
movement – measuring just 3.30 mm thick – and housed in the L.U.C 1860 watch were
honoured in 1997 by the awarding of the “Watch of the Year” title by the Swiss magazine
Montres Passion/Uhrenwelt. The L.U.C Twin technology of this bidirectional self-winding
movement ensures a 65-hour power reserve. Its micro-rotor type oscillating weight is in
22-carat gold, its balance spring has a Phillips terminal curve, and the exceptional care
devoted to its finishing and decoration earn it the right to carry the prestigious Poinçon de
Genève quality hallmark. This micromechanical masterpiece serves as the base mechanism
for ten or so different movements.
Thickness 3.30 mm
Jewels 29
Number of parts 208
Base calibre of L.U.C 96.09-L, L.U.C 96.12-L, L.U.C 96.13-L,
L.U.C 96.14-L, L.U.C 96.17-L, L.U.C 96.18-L
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 96QP)
Functions Perpetual calendar, moon phases
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, days,
months, four-year leap-year cycle, 24-hour indicator,
moon phases
Certifications COSC certificate,
Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark
Diameter 33.00 mm (14’’’ V )
Thickness 6.00 mm
Power reserve Approx. 65 hours, L.U.C Twin technology
(two stacked barrels)
Decorations Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève,
circular-grained mainplate
Jewels 32
Number of parts 355
Models L.U.C Lunar One (page 90),
L.U.C XP Urushi (page 114)
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(L.U.C 96SH)
(L.U.C 9.96)
Certifications COSC certificate,
Fleurier Quality Foundation certificate
Diameter 33.00 mm (14’’’ V )
Thickness 5.75 mm
Jewels 33
Thickness 3.30 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 29
Number of parts 300
Models L.U.C Strike One (page 96)
Number of parts 172
Models L.U.C Tech Qualité Fleurier (page 130)
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 96HM)
Thickness 3.30 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 29
Number of parts 172
Models L.U.C XP (page 108)
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(L.U.C 12.96)
(L.U.C 96T)
Thickness 3.30 mm
Frequency 4Hz, 28,800 Vph (vibrations per hour)
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 29
Thickness 3.30 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 28
Number of parts 172
Models L.U.C XPS (page 118)
Number of parts 193
Models L.U.C Tech Twist (page 126)
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 3.97)
L.U.C Calibre 97.03-L (L.U.C 3.97) is a tonneau or barrel-shaped calibre. Shaped movements
represent a difficult exercise in that designing them involves entirely revising the
arrangement of the parts in order to match an unusual mainplate. But since one of the
fundamental principles of Haute Horlogerie is to adapt the shape of the movement to
the shape of the case, only the most prestigious manufactures have shaped movements
in their range of technical resources, and Chopard Manufacture is no exception to this
rule. L.U.C Calibre 97.03-L is an ultra-thin tonneau-shaped calibre measuring just 3.30 mm
thick. Its bidirectional self-winding movement is equipped with a 22-carat gold micro-rotor,
enabling it to be incorporated into the thickness of a movement that thereby remains
as slim as ever. Thanks to its L.U.C Twin technology, it has a 65-hour power reserve, and
its precision is accredited by a chronometer rating certificate issued by the Swiss Official
Movement Bidirectional self-winding
Dimensions 28.15 x 27.60 mm (12’’’ V x 12’’’)
Thickness 3.30 mm
Balance spring Flat
Jewels 29
Number of parts 197
Models L.U.C XP Tonneau (page 122)
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 1.98)
L.U.C Calibre 98.01-L is the world’s first hand-wound movement comprising four barrels
composed of two sets of coupled or stacked barrels, each containing a spring measuring
47 cm long. The total sum of their lengths amounts to 1.88 metres, thus enabling them to
store sufficient energy to power this calibre for 216 hours, equivalent to around 9 days. This
exceptional autonomy is displayed on the dial by a power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock.
Another distinctive feature of this calibre lies in its concentric display of the date and small
seconds in a subdial at 6 o’clock. The entirely hand-crafted finishing of this movement
meets the demanding craftsmanship standards of the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power-reserve indicator
Diameter 28.60 mm (12’’’ V )
Thickness 3.70 mm
Power reserve Approx. 216 hours (meaning 9 days), L.U.C Quattro technology,
four barrels (two sets of two stacked barrels)
Balance wheel With three spokes, with “swan’s neck” micrometrical regulation
Jewels 39
Number of parts 223
Models L.U.C Quattro (page 134)
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 1.02)
It was in 2003 that Chopard Manufacture made its grand entrance onto the scene
of the most prestigious complications by introducing its first calibre equipped with a
tourbillon. In addition to this remarkable token of precision – attested to by a chronometer
rating certificate issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) L.U.C Calibre 02.01-L has an exceptional 9-day power reserve thanks to its L.U.C Quattro
technology based on two sets of two stacked barrels. Its 224 parts, including 62 for the
tourbillon alone, are accommodated within a mere 4 cm3 area. Their exceptional level of
finishing and their particularly meticulous decoration have earned L.U.C Calibre 02.01-L
the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. This outstanding movement has
given rise to a number of L.U.C tourbillon variations.
Function Tourbillon
Certifications COSC certificate,Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark
Thickness 6.10 mm
Power reserve Approx. 216 hours (meaning 9 days), L.U.C Quattro technology,
four barrels (two sets of two stacked barrels)
Jewels 33
Number of parts 224
Base calibre of L.U.C 02.03-L, L.U.C 02.08-L, L.U.C 02.10-L1, L.U.C 02.11-L,
L.U.C 02.12-L, L.U.C 02.13-L
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 4TBST)
(L.U.C 4TBSTSi)
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds,
power-reserve indicator
Thickness 6.10 mm
Power reserve Approx. 216 hours (meaning 9 days),
L.U.C Quattro technology, four barrels
Jewels 33
Thickness 6.10 mm
Escapement Silicon
Jewels 31
Number of parts 217
Models L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Twist (page 76)
Number of parts 229
Models L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Twist (page 74)
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L.U.C Calibre 02.10-L1
(L.U.C 4TT)
(L.U.C 4TT3NGM)
Thickness 6.10 mm
Jewels 33
Thickness 6.10 mm
L.U.C Quattro technology, four barrels (two sets of two
stacked barrels)
Decorations Traditional fleurisan motifs
Jewels 33
Number of parts 229
Models L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Steel Wings (page 80)
Number of parts 231
Models L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier (page 84)
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L .U.C C ALIBRES
(L.U.C 4TSL)
(L.U.C 1.02QF)
Certifications COSC certificate, Poinçon de Genève
quality hallmark, Fleurier Quality Foundation certificate
Movement Hand-wound
Thickness 6.10 mm
Jewels 33
Number of parts 219
Models L.U.C Tourbillon SL (page 78)
Movement Hand-wound
Thickness 6.10 mm
Jewels 33
Number of parts 224
Models L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon (page 82)
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Classic Racing Collection
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Classic Racing Collection
One of the special things about family companies is that the passions of those who run
them are inevitably revealed in the products they create. A world away from opportunistic
contracts with such or such a fashionable sport or brand, these passions represent sources
of inspiration serving as a prism through which the products take shape and the ranges
are built.
The Classic Racing collection stems from the passion nurtured by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
for historical cars and for motor sports in general. A penchant for performance and speed,
a passion for mechanics and tradition, a love of details and of fine workmanship are all key
character traits that have guided him towards the creation of this fascinating collection. A
collection that also highlights the many close affinities between the world of watchmaking
and that of automobiles – whether it comes to precision in timing a race or in adjusting
a movement; the readability of a dashboard or of a dial; or the extremely powerful ties
between a driver and his car, and between a man and his watch.
The Classic Racing collection is composed of timepieces featuring a design echoing that
of classic cars: elegant and yet sporty, sleek and daring. Their mechanical qualities are
matched by those of the speed machines that inspire them: reliability, sturdiness, and
a level of precision attested by a chronometer certificate issued by the Swiss Official
Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). This love of tradition in no way precludes making
use of futuristic technologies and materials. Since Chopard makes all its cases in-house,
this approach gives it even greater freedom in the choice of materials and technologies:
titanium, carbon, blackened steel…
The Classic Racing collection is composed of four specific ranges, each paying tribute in
its own way to the world of automobiles and motor sports: Superfast, Mille Miglia, Grand
Prix de Monaco Historique and Jacky Ickx.
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CL ASSIC R ACING COLLEC TION / SUPERFAST
Superfast
The Superfast model is the superlative sports watch. Its 45 mm-diameter case gives it a
powerful presence on the wrist thanks to a boldly assertive personality. Its contemporary
design, its technical characteristics and its luxurious finishing place it at the very peak of
the Classic Racing collection.
Witness the refinement displayed in every detail of its exterior. The case is water-resistant to
100 metres and its sides are engraved with a linear pattern evoking the cooling systems on
classic cars and which is echoed on the dial. The black screw-locked crown bears the Classic
Racing collection’s signature steering wheel motif. The rectangular chronograph pushers
are rubber-coated to ensure a better grip when starting and resetting the mechanism.
Nonetheless, the characteristics most clearly reflecting its exceptional personality are its
bezel engraved with a tachometric scale and secured to the case-middle by eight black
screws, along with the oversized 12 o’clock numeral adorning the dial.
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This instinctively competitive timepiece houses an engine boasting performances to
match its bodywork: a mechanical self-winding calibre beating at 28,800 vibrations per
hour, a 42-hour power reserve, and a chronometer certificate issued by the Swiss Official
Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), the only official body in Switzerland authorised to
guarantee the precision of a watch.
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Here is a watch intended for all those looking for an exceptional instrument. Witness its
characteristics and its performances: a mechanical self-winding movement equipped
with a split-second chronograph, one of the most sophisticated complications, and a
degree of precision attested to by a chronometer certificate delivered by the Swiss Official
Its case middle is in steel with a Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) coating, an extremely hard
protective treatment. The information displayed on the deep black dial is extremely
readable thanks to the contrast created by the white and red hands. Its bezel bearing a
tachometric scale is secured to the case by eight screws and ensures water resistance to
100 metres. To protect them from shocks, the chronograph pushers are integrated into
the case middle and rubber-coated like the screw-locked crown. A red rubber coating on
the split-second pusher at 8 o’clock accentuates the red and black contrasts featured on
this exceptional model. This measuring instrument is available in a limited numbered
series of 1,000.
Functions Chronograph with split-second function, tachometric scale
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph seconds hand,
split-second hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter,
Movement Self-winding
Jewels 27
Case
Diameter 45.00 mm
Thickness 15.38 mm
Bracelet Barenia calfskin or rubber with DLC blackened steel folding clasp
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Material DLC blackened stainless steel
Diameter 45.00 mm
(exclusively available from Chopard boutiques)
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Superfast Chrono
Built-in power and technical intricacy, rugged charm and refined touches: everything
about the Superfast Chrono watch pays tribute to the fascinating world of classic cars.
The sophistication of its exterior is equalled only by the technical nature of the mechanical
self-winding movement guaranteeing extreme precision attested to by a chronometer
certificate issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The Superfast
Chrono is available in steel and in 18-carat rose gold, and fitted with a rubber or alligator
leather strap equipped with a folding clasp.
Functions Chronograph, tachometric scale
30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
Jewels 37
Case
Diameter 45.00 mm
Thickness 15.08 mm
Strap Rubber or alligator leather with gold or steel folding clasp
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Superfast Chrono
Diameter 45.00 mm
Superfast Chrono
Diameter 45.00 mm
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CL ASSIC R ACING COLLEC TION / MILLE MIGLIA
Mille Miglia
As official timekeeper and global sponsor of the Mille Miglia, the world’s most famous
regularity race for classic cars, Chopard has created a watch bearing the name of this
prestigious event and which has become the brand’s unmistakable sporting emblem. Its
unique and instantly recognisable design, and Chopard’s ability to constantly reinvent it
without ever betraying it have made this watch one of the greatest classics of contemporary
watchmaking. For over 20 years, Chopard has drawn the inspiration for this model from the
beauty of the wonderful cars which, once a year, vie with each other to top the rankings
in the race leading from Brescia to Rome and back.
Passion, performance and precision have thus become the keynotes of a collection within
which each model reveals the astonishing similarities between automobile engineering
and mechanical horology.
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The sophisticated and aerodynamic design of their case-middles echoes the elegant
curves of classic cars. Their dials are directly inspired by vintage dashboards, and a whole
host of other refined and subtle features evoke the world of motor racing. The cases
in steel, titanium or 18-carat gold house mechanical movements that all come with a
chronometer certificate issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
This certificate, which is granted after 16 days of tests, is a guarantee of their extreme
long-term precision. Just as in a race such as the Mille Miglia, where the quality of a car is
judged by its performances throughout the race, those of a watch are also best revealed
over the long run.
The “engines” of the Mille Miglia collection are highlighted by the broad variety of dials
and functions, some of which prove particularly useful in competitions, such as the
chronograph and the power reserve. Their readability, which is indispensable in a racing
situation and when every second counts, is ensured by black or silver-toned dials featuring
large-size numerals and glareproofed sapphire crystals. As for their sturdiness and their
reliability, these qualities are equalled only by those of the classic cars that continue to
deliver sterling performances over the years.
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The Mille Miglia Gran Turismo XL is distinguished by it size and its simplicity. Its 44 mm
diameter makes it a timepiece with a boldly assertive personality. The protection device
surrounding its screw-locked crown further accentuates the sturdy look of this model that
is water-resistant to 100 metres. Its mechanical self-winding movement, the accuracy of
which is confirmed by a chronometer certificate issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer
Testing Institute (COSC), drives only the essential functions: hour, minute, seconds and
date. This simplicity is reinforced by the readability of a dial featuring oversized 12 and 6
o’clock numerals. The Mille Miglia Gran Turismo XL is available in steel and 18-carat rose
gold, teamed with a leather or rubber strap, or a steel bracelet.
Jewels 24
Case
Diameter 44.00 mm
Thickness 14.56 mm
Strap Rubber, barenia calfskin or alligator leather strap with gold or steel folding clasp.
Also available with a steel bracelet
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Diameter 44.00 mm
Diameter 44.00 mm
Diameter 44.00 mm
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Mille Miglia GT XL Power Control
The dial of the Mille Miglia GT XL Power Control watch is a remarkable blend of symmetry
and simplicity. It bears an oversized 12 o’clock numeral appearing opposite a powerreserve indicator designed like a petrol gauge such as can be found on the dashboards
of vintage cars. This power reserve amounts to around 46 hours. The readability of the
date is enhanced by a magnifying window integrated into the watch glass. Thanks to
a minute track with quarter-second graduations, the watch also provides particularly
accurate read-off, and this very precision is guaranteed by the chronometer certificate
issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It is available in steel, in
titanium and in 18-carat rose gold, fitted with a leather or rubber strap or a steel bracelet.
Indications Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power-reserve indicator
Jewels 24
Case
Diameter 44.00 mm
Thickness 14.56 mm
Strap Rubber, barenia calfskin or alligator leather with folding clasp in steel,
gold or titanium. Also available with a steel bracelet
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Mille Miglia GT XL
Power Control
Diameter 44.00 mm
Mille Miglia GT XL
Power Control
Diameter 44.00 mm
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Mille Miglia GT XL
Power Control
Material Titanium
Diameter 44.00 mm
Mille Miglia GT XL
Power Control
Diameter 44.00 mm
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Mille Miglia GT XL
Power Control
Diameter 44.00 mm
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Travellers will particularly appreciate this version of the Mille Miglia GT XL GMT watch. Its
dial, which is especially readable thanks to the generous 44 mm size of the case, displays
a view of the globe from the North Pole, thus enabling fast and intuitive calculation of
the time difference between one time zone and another. A short hand running over this
unusual view of the earth also constantly displays the time, expressed in 24-hour mode,
in a given time zone. Its precision is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing
Institute (COSC), while the minute circle enables 1/4th second readings. The Mille Miglia
GT XL GMT is available in steel and in 18-carat rose gold versions, fitted with a leather or
rubber strap or a steel bracelet.
Functions GMT
Indications Hours, minutes, seconds, date, dual time-zone display
Jewels 24
Case
Diameter 44.00 mm
Thickness 14.56 mm
Strap Rubber, barenia calfskin or alligator leather with steel or gold folding clasp.
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Diameter 44.00 mm
Diameter 44.00 mm
Diameter 44.00 mm
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Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono 2011
This brand-new model provides exceptional readability, an essential prerequisite for using
its many functions in an optimal way. Its large-size 44 mm case fitted with an extremely
slender bezel provides a maximum of space for the indications appearing on the engineturned dial, while nonetheless remaining reasonably sized. The only exception is the date,
topped by a magnifying glass. The hour numerals printed beneath the crystal further
lighten up the overall design. A crown guard incorporating the chronograph pushers
reinforces the robust appearance of the case-middle that is water-resistant to 100 metres.
The ultra-precise mechanical self-winding movement is chronometer-certified by the
Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono 2011
is available in steel and in 18-carat rose gold, fitted with a leather or rubber strap.
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph seconds hand, 30-minute
counter, 12-hour counter
Jewels 25
Case
Diameter 44.00 mm
Thickness 14.56 mm
Strap Rubber, barenia calfskin or alligator leather with gold or steel folding clasp
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Diameter 44.00 mm
Diameter 44.00 mm
Limited edition 250
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Red is the colour of passion and emotions. A colour ideally suited for a timepiece with the
technical nature and appearance of a racing car. A mechanical self-winding movement
ensuring a degree of precision certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute
(COSC), a tachometric scale on the bezel enabling easy speed calculations, integrated
crown guard and chronograph pushers, water resistance to 100 metres, a perforated
calfskin strap with red stitching: every aspect of the Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Rossa
Corsa evokes a world of speed and performance. This model is available in a 1,000-piece
titanium only limited numbered edition.
Jewels 25
Case
Diameter 44.00 mm
Thickness 14.56 mm
Strap Barenia calfskin with titanium pin buckle
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Material Titanium
Diameter 44.00 mm
Available exclusively from Chopard Boutiques
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Thanks to a generous 44 mm diameter, the Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono watch boasts
excellent legibility that enables easy read-off of all its functions: hours with oversized
12 and 6 o’clock numerals, an ultra-precise minute track (with graduations and subgraduations every 15 seconds), small seconds at 9 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock equipped with
magnifying window integrated into the sapphire crystal, chronograph minutes at 12 o’clock
and chronograph hours at 6 o’clock. This excellent readability is further enhanced by the
presence of luminescent hour-markers placed every five minutes. Its sturdiness is ensured
by water resistance to 100 metres and a protective device for its screw-locked crown and
pushers. The tachometric scale appearing on the bezel is an ideal measuring instrument
for motor racing, since it serves to calculate speed by means of the milestones placed
along roads. Its precision is guaranteed by a chronometer certificate issued by the Swiss
Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It is available in steel and in 18-carat rose
gold versions, teamed with a leather or rubber strap, or a steel bracelet.
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph seconds hands,
Jewels 25
Case
Diameter 44.00 mm
Thickness 14.36 mm
Strap Rubber, barenia calfskin or alligator leather with steel folding clasp or rose gold pin
buckle. Also available with a steel bracelet
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Diameter 44.00 mm
Diameter 44.00 mm
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Diameter 44.00 mm
Material DLC-treated
stainless steel
Diameter 44.00 mm
Limited edition
Available exclusively from
Chopard boutiques
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Diameter 44.00 mm
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Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Split Second
Beneath its sporty and dynamic exterior, the Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Split Second houses
one of the most complex of all horological complications: the split-second chronograph.
This device serves to measure and display the duration of a phenomenon due to the
momentary stoppage of a first seconds hand, while another hand continues running
and the chronograph continues operating. A press on the split-second pusher at 8 o’clock
enables the first hand to catch up with the other until the next measurement of another
intermediate or “split” time. This model is also equipped with a date display, a tachometric
scale and a screw-locked crown. It is available in 18-carat rose gold and steel, fitted with a
rubber or Barenia calfskin strap or a steel bracelet, all in limited numbered series.
Functions Chronograph with split-second function, tachometric scale
split-second hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
Jewels 27
Case
Diameter 44.00 mm
Thickness 15.86 mm
Strap Rubber, barenia calfskin or alligator leather with gold or steel folding clasp
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Split Second
Diameter 44.00 mm
Split Second
Diameter 44.00 mm
Limited edition 500
Split Second
Material DLC-treated stainless steel
Diameter 44.00 mm
Available exclusively from Chopard boutiques
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This contemporary expression of a best-selling model from the late 1990s features an
updated design and an even stronger personality. It is fitted with a black or silver-toned
sunburst finished dial displaying the hours, minutes, small seconds, date and chronograph.
Its 42 mm-diameter case middle, water-resistant to 50 metres, bears a tachometric scale
printed around its dial, and its mechanical self-winding movement beating at 28,800
vibrations per hour is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing
Institute (COSC). The Mille Miglia Chronograph is available in 18-carat rose gold and steel
versions, fitted with an alligator leather strap, or a rubber strap embossed with the 1960s
Dunlop racing tyre-tread motif.
Jewels 37
Case
Diameter 42.00 mm
Thickness 12.31 mm
Strap Rubber or alligator leather with gold or steel pin buckle
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Diameter 42.00 mm
Limited edition 500
Diameter 42.00 mm
Diameter 42.00 mm
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Like a racing car dashboard, this competition model manages to express its numerous
functions in an impressively readable manner. While the GMT function is displayed on
the bezel and is read off by a hand with a luminescent triangular tip, the tachometric
scale appears on the inner bezel ring around the 1/4th second minute-circle and the date is
equipped with a magnifying window. The subdials show the small seconds at 9 o’clock, the
chronograph minutes at 12 o’clock and the chronograph hours at 6 o’clock. The precision
of the Mile Miglia GMT Chrono is guaranteed by a chronometer certificate issued by the
Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). This watch is available in steel and
18-carat rose gold versions, fitted with leather or rubber straps or a steel bracelet.
Functions Chronograph, GMT, tachometric scale
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, Chronograph seconds hand,
30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, dual time-zone display
Jewels 25
Case
Diameter 42.50 mm
Thickness 14.85 mm
Strap/bracelet Rubber, barenia calfskin or alligator leather with steel or gold folding clasp.
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Diameter 42.50 mm
Diameter 42.50 mm
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Diameter 42.50 mm
Diameter 42.50 mm
Diameter 42.50 mm
Diameter 42.50 mm
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Diameter 42.50 mm
Diameter 42.50 mm
Diameter 42.50 mm
Material DLC-treated
stainless steel
Diameter 42.50 mm
Available exclusively from
Chopard boutiques
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CL ASSIC R ACING COLLEC TION / GR AND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE
The Grand Prix de Monaco Historique is the vintage version of one of the world’s most
famous Formula 1 Grand Prix races. Created in 1998 on the occasion of the 700th anniversary
of the Grimaldi family’s accession to the throne of the Principality, this race takes the
same course along the roads of the Monaco state, but is intended exclusively for classic
racing cars, making it an event unique in its kind. Although originally intended to be a
one-off happening, it proved such a success that the organisers decided to repeat it every
two years. Over the years, the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique has become a favourite
venue for classic car devotees and attracts collectors from around the world, especially
from England, the United States, Germany, France and Italy. Every two years, these racingcar enthusiasts invade the principality along with the cars that they have spent weeks
assembling and dismantling, repairing and adjusting in order to prepare them for this
stern trial. Their passion for mechanics and performance is reminiscent of that shown
by the watchmaker at his bench… The Grand Prix de Monaco Historique brings together
every two years more than 200 vehicles that have all made their mark on successive eras,
including models by Bugatti, Delage, Alfa Romeo, Aston Martin, Jaguar, Maserati and
Ferrari, along with Formula 1 cars built before 1979 by manufacturers such as Brabham,
Lotus and Williams.
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As official timekeeper of the event since 2002, Chopard has created a collection of
exceptional chronographs paying tribute to the competition. Inspired by these classic
cars in terms of both their finishing and their performances, all are equipped with a
calibre that is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute
(COSC) and bears the logo of the Automobile Club de Monaco.
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Grand Prix de Monaco Historique 2010
This timepiece radiates a sense of elegance and technical sophistication characteristic
of classic racing cars. Contrasting finishes, a balanced black and white colour scheme, a
few touches of orange and blue, refined materials, a leather strap designed like driver’s
gloves: everything about it reflects speed and leading the field on a racing track. Its
transparent case-back provides a chance to admire the mechanical self-winding movement
boasting a precision guaranteed by the chronometer certificate issued by the Swiss Official
Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The centre of the watch glass carries the insignia
of the Automobile Club de Monaco, the state hosting the prestigious Grand Prix after
which this model is named.
Jewels 25
Case
Diameter 42.40 mm
Thickness 14.67 mm
Strap Rubber, barenia calfskin or alligator leather with steel or gold folding clasp.
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Grand Prix de Monaco
Historique 2010
Diameter 42.40 mm
Historique 2010
Diameter 42.40 mm
Historique 2010
Diameter 42.40 mm
Limited edition 250
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Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Time Attack MF
The Time Attack MF model features external characteristics reflecting the spirit of elegance
and tradition of the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique that Chopard has been partnering
since 2002: a slender black bezel bearing a tachometric scale; a pure dial with luminescent
hour-markers; a 42.40 mm-diameter case; and a perforated leather strap evoking the
design of sporty steering wheel covers. Its case nonetheless houses a masterpiece of
contemporary technology: a quartz calibre driving analogue-type displays of the hours,
minutes and central seconds; as well as a digital display of the 1/100th of a second splitsecond chronograph function, perpetual calendar, countdown, alarm, and dual time-zone
complete with its own alarm. This calibre enjoys the rare distinction of being chronometercertified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), according to a protocol
specifically reserved for quartz movements.
Functions 1/100th second chronograph with split-second function, perpetual calendar, alarm,
countdown, dual time-zone display with independent alarm,
UTC (coordinated universal time), tachometric scale
Indications Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph seconds hand
Movement Quartz
Case
Diameter 42.40 mm
Thickness 14.40 mm
Strap Rubber, barenia calfskin or alligator leather with steel folding clasp.
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Time Attack MF
Diameter 42.40 mm
Time Attack MF
Diameter 42.40 mm
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CL ASSIC R ACING COLLEC TION / JACK Y ICK X
Jacky Ickx
Jacky Ickx is one of the most fascinating racing drivers of the 20th century. His career is
impressive not only in terms of his many victories, but also because of the large variety
of disciplines in which this exceptional sportsman distinguished himself. These included
Formula 1 motor-racing, car rallies, and above all the endurance races that forged his
formidable reputation – especially after winning the Le Mans 24 Hours race six times, a feat
that earned him the nickname “Monsieur Le Mans”. This gifted driver is also a gentleman
who has made his mark on the automobile world thanks to his fair-play and elegance. It
was thus in tribute to both his human and professional qualities that Chopard chose to
create a collection bearing his name. It is composed of extremely sturdy models with dials
designed to be ultra-legible, even at speeds of 200 km/h, and powered by movements
specially developed to handle the timing of long-duration sports competitions of up to
24 hours.
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The Jacky Ickx collection is composed of timepieces combining high technicality with
sophisticated elegance. They are all equipped with mechanical self-winding calibres
boasting precision attested to by a chronometer rating certificate issued by the Swiss
Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). All have a chronograph complication with
flyback function, and a Chopard-exclusive hour counter expressed in 24-hour mode. The
position of this counter at 6 o’clock on the dial is a discreet nod to the number of victories
earned by Jacky Ickx in the Le Mans 24 Hours endurance race.
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The 5th edition of the Jacky Ickx watch proclaims its automobile origins right the way
through to its chronograph pushers shaped like engine cylinders. The dial plays with
contrasts reminiscent of those on racing-car speedometers. Small seconds, ultra-readable
large date, 24-hour chronograph with flyback function, tachometric scale, precision
guaranteed by a chronometer rating certificate issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer
Testing Institute (COSC): the Jacky Ickx Edition V is designed like a measuring instrument
cut out for speed and competition. It is available in limited numbered series of 2,000 in
steel and 500 in 18-carat rose gold.
Functions Flyback chronograph, tachometric scale
Jewels 49
Case
Diameter 42.40 mm
Thickness 14.23 mm
Strap Rubber, Barenia calfskin or alligator leather with steel or gold folding clasp
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Diameter 42.40 mm
Diameter 42.40 mm
Limited edition 500
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Annexes
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ANNEXES
Customer Service
For more than 150 years, the House of Chopard has been producing watch and jewellery
creations of outstanding quality. Eager to ensure they procure lasting pleasure for those
who have acquired them, the company is determined to provide the latter with a customer
service on a par with its reputation via a worldwide network of Chopard official authorised
retailers and Official Service Centres.
Maintenance and repairs of Chopard watches are performed by specialised watchmakers
and polishers capable of working both on recent models and on older ones. These
experienced artisans have the apparatus, documentation, specific tools and original
components required to intervene on all our timepieces. They also receive regular refresher
courses in order to know and master all the latest technological features introduced by
the company.
Each Chopard timepiece that comes through our workshops will thus be handled with
great care in order to ensure a long life for an object that is rightly considered as both a
source of pleasure and a sound investment.
25 4
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Services
The lifespan of our watches may extend over several generations, provided they are given
the care they deserve. Composed of hundreds of parts in continuous operation, Chopard
movements require particular care and regular maintenance. In order to guarantee their
performances, they must therefore be entrusted exclusively to a Chopard official authorised
retailer or Official Service Centre, which will perform the necessary maintenance operations.
Once a year, or before any extended period of aquatic activity, we also recommend that you
have the water resistance of your Chopard watch checked by a Chopard official authorised
retailer or Official Service Centre, which will replace any gaskets if required.
Chopard offers two types of services for its watches: a maintenance service and a
complete overhaul. If so requested, polishing may also be performed in addition to the
aforementioned services.
All services and repairs undertaken in a Chopard Official Service Centre are guaranteed
for a full one-year period.
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ANNEXES
Maintenance service
1. Verification of the proper lubrication and of the movement functions in order to ensure
it is running according to Chopard specifications.
2. Cleaning and lubrication of the escapement (for mechanical movements) or change
of battery (for quartz movements), the source of energy of the movement.
3. Adjustment of the daily rate of the movement using apparatus serving to simulate
real-life conditions of wear.
4. Cleaning of the case, metal bracelet and buckle using an ultra-sound bath.
5. Replacement of the joints and verification of water resistance in order to ensure that
no water or dust can enter the case.
6. Final control: each function of the watch movement, as well as the appearance of the
case and bracelet, are meticulously checked in order to ensure their strict compliance
with both technical and aesthetic criteria.
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Full overhaul
1. Dismantling of the movement, cleaning, followed by winding and lubrication. Verification
of the proper running of all functions.
2. Repair or replacement of any defective parts.
3. Adjustment of the daily rate of the movement using apparatus serving to simulate
real-life conditions of wear.
4. Battery replacement for quartz watches.
5. Cleaning of the case, metal bracelet and buckle using an ultra-sound bath.
6. Replacement of the joints and verification of water resistance in order to ensure that
no water or dust can enter the case.
7. Final control: all the watch movement functions, as well as the appearance of the case
and bracelet, are meticulously checked in order to ensure their strict compliance with
both technical and aesthetic criteria.
You will find a full list of Chopard official authorised retailers on our www.chopard.com
website.
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ANNEXES
Guarantee
Chopard watches are crafted with meticulous care and subjected to stringent quality
controls. Nonetheless, like any precision instrument, they require regular maintenance
that only a specialist can handle. Any servicing or repairs must be performed exclusively
by a Chopard official authorised retailer or Official Service Centre.
We guarantee Chopard watches against any manufacturing flaw or defect for two years
as of the date of purchase. Nevertheless, if it should need to be examined during this
period, the owner may simply present the watch along with its duly filled-out certificate
of guarantee to a Chopard official authorised retailer or Official Service Centre.
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Chopard milestones
1836
May 4th, birth of Louis-Ulysse Chopard in Sonvilier in the Swiss Jura.
1860 24 year-old Louis-Ulysse Chopard founds a high-precision watch manufactory
specialising in pocket-watches and chronometers, in Sonvilier, Switzerland.
1912
Karl Scheufele I invents the so-called ”pocket-watch clip”
1921
Paul-Louis Chopard, who has taken over the business, opens a subsidiary company
in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
1937
Chopard relocates to Geneva.
1943
Paul-André Chopard. son of Paul-Louis, takes over the Chopard company.
1963
Paul-André Chopard sells Chopard to Karl Scheufele III.
1974
The company moves from the centre of Geneva to the new Meyrin-Geneva site.
1976
Creation of the first Happy Diamonds watch.
1980 Launch of the first steel sports watch: the St. Moritz model.
1983
Launch of the Monte Carlo collection.
Opening of the brand’s first ever boutique, in Hong Kong.
1985
Launch of the Alta Moda collection to mark Chopard’s 125th anniversary.
Creation of the Happy Diamonds Clown, marking the start of Chopard jewellery.
Karl-Friedrich and Caroline Scheufele are appointed vice-presidents of the Chopard
group.
1986 Launch of the Gstaad collection.
1988 Start of the partnership between Chopard and the Mille Miglia, the legendary
classic car rally in Italy. Chopard creates the Mille Miglia sports watch collection.
1989 Opening of the first Chopard boutique in Europe, located in Vienna, Austria.
1993
Launch of the Happy Sport watch collection.
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ANNEXES
1994 Launch of the La Strada and Imperiale collections.
1996 The company returns to its roots: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele founds the “Manufacture”
in Fleurier, in the Swiss Jura, dedicated to the production of mechanical L.U.C
movements.
1997
The L.U.C 1860 model, equipped with L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L (L.U.C 1.96), is voted “Watch
of the Year” by the Swiss Montres Passion/Uhrenwelt magazine.
1998 Chopard becomes official partner of the Cannes Film Festival and Caroline Scheufele
redesigns the Palme d’Or, now crafted in the Chopard workshops.
2000 Presentation of the world-first L.U.C Quattro watch, equipped with L.U.C Calibre
98.01-L (L.U.C 1.98), featuring four barrels (two sets of two stacked barrels, the
patented L.U.C Quattro technology), endowing the watch with a nine-day power
reserve.
2001 Launch of the L.U.C Tonneau model, equipped with the first tonneau-shaped selfwinding movement (L.U.C 97.03-L), fitted with an off-centre micro-rotor.
Caroline and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele are appointed Co-Presidents of Chopard.
2002 Presentation of a new jewellery concept with the launch of the new Golden
Diamonds collection.
Chopard becomes official timekeeper of the prestigious Grand Prix de Monaco
Historique, a classic car race held in Monte Carlo.
Launch of the Elton John watch collection on behalf of the Elton John AIDS
Foundation.
2003 Presentation of the first L.U.C Tourbillon model, representing a major technological
accomplishment in the field of fine watchmaking.
Creation of the Jacky Ickx watch line.
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2004 Presentation of the L.U.C Regulator watch, which wins the “Watch of the Year” prize
awarded by the Swiss magazine Montres Passion/Uhrenwelt.
2005 Presentation of the L.U.C Lunar One watch, driven by mechanical self-winding L.U.C
Calibre 96.13-L (L.U.C 96 QP), featuring perpetual calendar and orbital moon-phase
functions.
2006 Presentation of the L.U.C Chrono One watch, the first chronograph in the L.U.C
collection, initially equipped with Calibre 10 CF and later with Calibre 11 CF, to
celebrate the 10th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture.
Inauguration of the L.U.CEUM in Fleurier.
2007 Introduction of the first Haute Joaillerie Red Carpet collection dedicated to the
Cannes Film Festival.
2008 The Fleurier Ebauches SA company is founded in Fleurier.
2009 Presentation at Baselworld of the L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Twist watch equipped with
a silicon escapement.
Introduction of a high-frequency (10 Hertz) escapement developed by Chopard
Technologies.
2010 Celebration of Chopard’s 150th anniversary and presentation of four new calibres
equipping four exceptional timepieces: L.U.C 150 “All-in-One”, L.U.C Louis Ulysse – The
Tribute, L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon and L.U.C 1937.
2011
Launch of the first watch combining the COSC certification, the prestigious Poinçon
de Genève quality hallmark and the Fleurier Quality Foundation label (a world first):
the L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon.
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ANNEXES
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Glossary
Appliques
The hour numerals or decorations that are cut from sheets of metal then affixed to the dial.
Balance
A circular, moving part which oscillates on its rotational axis. It is coupled to the balance
spring which gives it the to-and-fro motion through which it divides time into strictly
equal parts. Each to-and-fro movement (“tick-tock”) is called an oscillation, and each
oscillation comprises two vibrations.
A circular mass (rim) held by spokes. Combined with the balance spring, it forms the
regulating organ of the watch.
Balance spring
A very fine spring and the “soul” of a mechanical watch. Its ends are affixed to the balance
and the balance-cock. Its elasticity allows the balance to make regular oscillations. Its
length, and the balance’s moment of inertia, determine the duration of each oscillation.
Its length can be altered to regulate the watch.
Barrel
A cylindrical box (the barrel) and toothed disc (wheel), protected by a cover. The barrel,
which contains the mainspring, turns freely on its arbor. The mainspring is hooked to
the barrel at its outer extremity and to the arbor at its inner extremity. The barrel wheel
meshes with the first pinion of the gear train. As it slowly rotates, its arc varies from oneninth to one-sixth of a revolution per hour.
Blued steel
Steel that has been heated until its surface oxidises to become a more or less dark blue.
Bow
Variously-shaped ring for suspending a pocket watch and fastening a chain.
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ANNEXES
Bridge
A metal plate fixed to the mainplate on which one of the pivots of the wheels and pinions
turns.
Both ends of the bridge are secured to the mainplate by screws. Generally a bridge is
named according to its function, e.g. centre-wheel bridge, barrel bridge, balance-cock, etc.
Case up
To insert and secure the movement inside the case.
Chamfering
To form a flat surface by hand-filing the sharp edge of a bridge, plate, screw head, etc., so
as to give the part a perfect appearance.
Chamfering is a distinguishing feature of a superior quality watch.
Chronofiable
A joint certification project by a consortium of watch companies which accelerates the
watch’s ageing process by a factor of eight to simulate the effects of six months’ wear in
three weeks. The majority of leading watch brands submit watches for testing and are
issued with a Chronofiable certificate.
Chronograph
A watch indicating hours, minutes and seconds combined with a mechanism whose
hand can be started, stopped and returned to zero on demand to measure the duration
of a phenomenon to one fifth, tenth or even hundredth of a second. Subcounters for the
minutes and hours (usually 30 minutes and 12 hours) totalise the number of revolutions
of the chronograph hand. The accuracy of these recorded times can only be guaranteed
if the chronograph has satisfied the criteria of the “chronometer” label.
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Chronometer
A chronometer is, etymologically, an instrument for measuring the time. In common
usage it has come to mean a high-precision watch displaying seconds whose movement
has been controlled over a period of several days, in different positions and at different
temperatures, by an official neutral body. Only mechanisms that have satisfied the criteria
for precision of ISO 3159, or its equivalent, are issued with an official chronometer certificate.
In Switzerland, the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) has the power to
award these certificates. Based on the requirements of ISO 3159, the COSC has also drawn
up a set of specifications for the testing of quartz movements.
While a chronograph can be used to measure an interval of time, it can only use the name
“chronometer” if it has been officially certified as such.
Circular-graining (stippling)
A decorative finish of overlapping circles in a close-set concentric pattern that gives a
distinctive textured effect.
Collet
Small cylinder fitted friction-tight to the balance-staff.
Column wheel
The wheel which coordinates the start, stop and return to zero functions of the chronograph
hand.
In a standard quality chronograph, the column wheel is replaced by a system of cams.
Complication
Any function other than the indication of hours, minutes and seconds, regardless of
whether the mechanism is hand-wound or self-winding, mechanical or electronic, and
of movement thickness. The tourbillon and the self-winding system are considered to be
complications even though they do not fall within the generic definition.
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ANNEXES
COSC certification
cf page 158
Côtes de Genève
A decoration of undulating lines, like waves, frequently used to embellish superior quality
movements.
Date
The number, in order, of each day in the month.
Dauphine (hands)
A type of hand shaped like an elongated triangle.
DLC
Diamond Like Carbon, a coating operation that creates a black appearance.
Ébauche
An unfinished movement sold as such.
Until circa 1850, an ébauche comprised only the plate, bridges, fusee and barrel. It was
known as a blanc (blank) and was finished in the établissage workshops.
The modern ébauche is a watch movement, with or without jewels but always without its
regulating organ, mainspring, dial and hands. It is also known as a blanc roulant.
Escapement
A mechanism that is fitted between the gears and the regulating organ. Its function is
to suspend the gears’ motion at regular intervals and to periodically supply energy to
the balance.
Electroplating
A plating technique using an electrolytic process.
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Engine-turning (guilloché)
A style of hand or machine engraving with intersecting wavy or straight lines. When the
piece is moved horizontally or vertically against the tool, the finished effect is guilloché,
whereas flinqué follows a radial movement.
Equation of time
The equation of time is the difference between true solar time and mean time. True solar
time, given by sundials, varies from day to day because of the Earth’s elliptical orbit, and
according to the longitude of the point of observation.
Mean time, given by watches, ignores these variations and for every day of the year
mathematically divides time into equal hours.
Four times a year, on April 15th, June 14th, September 1st and December 24th, true solar time
and mean time coincide. On the other days, the difference ranges from minus 16 minutes
and 23 seconds on November 4th, to plus 14 minutes and 22 seconds on February 11th.
Exterior
The different parts (case, dial, hands, crystal, crown, etc.) that help to give the watch its
finished and functional appearance.
Fleurier Quality Foundation
cf page 158
Fleurisanne engraving
This kind of finishing is an almost extinct craft that earned local watches considerable
fame from the 18th century onwards and spread the appeal of their timepieces as far
afield as China. This distinctive expertise is distinguished by its raised motifs: the engraver
does not sculpt and engrave the motif he wishes to highlight, but instead “spares it” by
removing the material surrounding it. Fleurisanne engraving thus exquisitely highlights
motifs by making them literally stand out. This extremely difficult craft calls for a great
deal of time as well as absolute mastery.
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ANNEXES
Fleuritest
Machine that tests the operation of a watch over a 24-hour period by recreating the
movements of a nycthemeral cycle, alternating between active, extremely active phases
(fitness, etc.) and calmer ones. The variations in rate are analysed by means of an image
capture system using digital cameras. This fully computerised machine observes the time
as the future owner will do, but in an extremely precise way.
Flyback
A function of particular use to pilots by which the chronograph hand can be reset to zero
and immediately started again by pressing once on the pushpiece.
The operation of stopping, returning to zero and restarting the hand in three separate
movements would indeed be too time-consuming at high speed.
Frequency
The number of oscillations per second, measured in Hertz. The balance makes a to-and-fro
movement at a given frequency. The higher the frequency, the more accurate the watch.
Folding clasp
An articulated buckle that unfolds when opened. Should the buckle accidentally come
open, it will still hold the strap sufficiently in place to prevent the watch from slipping
off the wrist.
Gear train
A set of wheels and pinions whereby the movement of one sets all the others in motion.
There are different types of gear train e.g. winding gears, strike-train, etc.
German or nickel silver
A silver-white alloy of copper, nickel and zinc developed in France circa 1820 by Maillot
and Chorier from whom it takes its French name, maillechort.
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GMT
Abbreviation of Greenwich Mean Time. To standardise time in all countries, the earth has
been divided since the 1884 International Meridian Conference in Washington into 24 time
zones, the first being the Greenwich meridian, considered as the prime or 0 meridian. All
points of the same time zone have the same legal time. In watchmaking, GMT means a
watch that also shows the time in another time zone.
Hammer
A metal part that strikes gongs, causing them to vibrate and produce sound.
Hand-wound
Describes a movement that is wound by hand using the winding crown.
Index
A device for adjusting a watch’s rate by increasing or reducing the effective length of
the balance spring. The index is a steel lever, the shorter end of which carries the curb
pins which embrace the spring, and the longer end of which passes over a scale marked
in French A and R (avance and retard) or in English F and S (fast and slow). The index is
friction-fitted on the balance’s endpiece. The watch is regulated by moving the index
forwards; the result of this can be gauged from the graduations on the balance-cock.
Leap year
Introduced by Julius Caesar in 45 BC as part of the Julian calendar, the leap year was already
found in certain Egyptian and Babylonian calendars. It has 366 days and generally occurs
every four years in order to compensate for the fact that the civil year progressively lags
behind the solar year.
Lever
Part of a watch or clock escapement, made in steel or brass.
The lever, whose form suggests a ship’s anchor, has a dual function: it transmits energy
from the spring via the wheels to the balance in order to maintain its oscillations. It also
controls the movement of the wound gears.
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ANNEXES
L.U.C Quattro
Exclusive Chopard technology ensuring a power reserve of 9 days (7 for the
L.U.C 150 "All-in-One" model) thanks to its four barrels (two sets of two stacked barrels).
Mainplate
The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges. The
dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with holes for
the screws and the wheel arbors and hollowed with recesses for the jewels in which the
pivots of the movement wheels will turn.
Manufacture
The Swiss watch industry uses this term to differentiate between a company that
manufactures a watch almost in its entirety as opposed to finishing workshops which
only assemble and time the watch, and fit the hands and movement.
Micron
A metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a millimetre or one millionth of a metre.
The watch industry often expresses tolerances in microns.
Milling
Removing material using a milling-cutter.
Moon phases
A mechanism and display representing the different phases of the moon. A complete
lunation takes 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds and is divided into four
phases. These are new moon, first quarter, full moon, last quarter.
Oscillating weight (micro-rotor)
In a self-winding movement, a heavy metal disc that turns freely in both directions to
wind the mainspring.
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Perpetual calendar
A watch with a perpetual calendar automatically takes the number of days in the month
into account: 30 or 31 and the 28 or 29 days of February for ordinary and leap years.
Phillips terminal curve
Shape given to one end of the balance-spring which is incurved in order to improve
isochronism, invented by Arnold, Breguet and perfected by Phillips and others, hence
often referred to as a "Phillips curve" or a "Breguet overcoil".
Pin buckle
An articulated metal catch that is inserted in a hole in the leather strap then secured by
the buckle. The majority of belts fasten this way.
Poinçon de Genève
cf page 158
Polishing
To give a smooth and shiny finish.
Power reserve
The time the watch will continue to function before the mainspring must be wound.
PVD
Physical vapour deposition, a technique for coating metal.
Quartz
Silicon dioxide. Also called rock crystal.
Quartz has the specific property of vibrating at a very high frequency (32 MHz) placed
under electric current. Under certain conditions, it imparts its own vibration frequency to
the circuit. This property has been used in electronic watches since the 1970s.
27 1
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ANNEXES
Rubies ( jewels)
A very hard red stone that is a type of corundum (aluminium oxide). Ruby is especially
suited to making bearings ( jewels) for the watch’s different moving parts and the organs
of the escapement, thereby reducing friction to a minimum. Drilled rubies were used
for the first time by Nicolas Facio de Duillier in 1704. Watches today use synthetic rubies
known as jewels. As a general rule, a simple mechanical watch, i.e. one that indicates hours,
minutes and seconds, should have at least fifteen jewels at the points most exposed to
friction-induced wear.
Self-winding
Describes a mechanism that winds the mainspring by using the movement of the arm
to cause a rotor to rotate and which, via specific gears, winds the mainspring.
Silent block
Part made of a supple material serving to absorb shocks and vibrations between mechanical
organs and the structure bearing them.
The L.U.C 04.01-L (L.U.C 1TRM) movement is mounted on silent blocks in the L.U.C Engine
One Tourbillon model.
Split-seconds (chronograph)
Chronograph with two hands. The split-seconds chronograph is used to time different events
that begin but do not end together (such as a sports event with several competitors). When
activated, the chronograph seconds hand and the split-seconds hand are superimposed.
Pressing the dedicated split-seconds pusher stops it, while the chronograph hand continues
running. After reading off the time, a second press on the split-seconds pusher releases
the split-seconds hand, enabling it to instantly catch up with the chronograph hand which
is still running, and thus to be synchronised with the latter once more.
Spring
The source of mechanical energy in a watch. A strip of tempered blued steel or a special
steel alloy, coiled inside the barrel.
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Striking mechanism
An acoustic device that automatically or on demand indicates the hour, and possibly
quarter-hour and minutes, or sounds at a pre-set time. A metal part called a hammer
strikes small gong-rings in order to make them vibrate and produce sounds.
Sunray or sunburst brushing
A pattern of imperceptible lines, like the sun’s rays, intersecting at the same central point.
It is created using a brush, usually with metal filaments.
Tachometer scale
In watchmaking, a chronograph or sports counter with a scale for reading speed in
kilometres per hour (kph) or another unit.
Tourbillon
A system devised and patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801 to compensate for errors
of rate caused by the Earth’s gravitational force in upright positions. The escapement is
mounted in a revolving carriage with the regulating organ (balance) at the centre. The
escape-wheel pinion turns about the fixed fourth wheel. The carriage generally revolves
once a minute and, in doing so, compensates for errors of rate caused by the vertical
position in which pocket watches spend most of their time. This delicate and complex
structure is one of watchmaking’s most ingenious mechanisms.
Tourbillon carriage
Rotating frame that carries the escapement and the balance.
Trimming
Removing burrs.
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ANNEXES
Variner® Balance
The Variner® (variable inertia) balance, an exclusive Chopard Manufacture signature
feature, affords the possibility of adjusting inertia variations, thus ensuring a more stable
going rate of the movement. The Variner® balance has four spokes and is equipped with
four small inertia-blocks enabling adjustment of its oscillation frequency. Modifying the
position of the inertia blocks results in a displacement of mass which in turn leads to
a variation in the moment of inertia of the balance, causing the watch to gain or lose.
Since the inertia blocks are entirely sunk into the rim or felly of the Variner balance, they
offer the advantage of not creating any aerodynamic disturbance during the oscillating
motion, thereby contributing to enhanced stability of rate. The balance spring with Phillips
terminal curve ensures that the centre of gravity of the regulating organ remains more
constantly centred on its pivotal point during its oscillations. Associating the Variner®
balance with a balance spring with Phillips terminal curve and a tourbillon ensures the
best possible regulating performances.
Water resistance
A watch’s water resistance is measured in bars (a unit of pressure where 1 bar equals
1 atmosphere or atm).
Manufacturers generally indicate this water resistance in metres (m), feet (ft), or
atmospheres (atm).
A watch that is described as water-resistant, with or without an additional indication of
overpressure, must comply with the criteria and have successfully passed the tests set
out in the NIHS 92-10 (equivalent to ISO-2281 international standard). These watches are
destined for ordinary everyday use, including periods of immersion in water such as leisure
swimming. They can be used in conditions of changing air pressure, water pressure or
temperature. Nonetheless, whether or not there is an individual overpressure indication,
they are not intended for scuba diving.
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Source: partly derived from the Glossary of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
www.hautehorlogerie.org
Chopard sincerely thanks the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) for making
available its watchmaking glossary, an acknowledged reference within the industry.
275
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CHOPARD BOUTIQUES WORLDWIDE
ABU DHABI · ALMATY · AMMAN · AMSTERDAM · ARUBA · ASTANA · ATHENS · BADEN BADEN · BAHRAIN · BAKU ·
BAL HARBOUR · BANGKOK · BANGKOK AIRPORT · BARCELONA · BEIRUT · BERLIN · BEVERLY HILLS · BOLOGNA ·
BOMBAY · BUSAN · CANNES · CASABLANCA · COLOGNE · COSTA MESA · DALIAN · DJEDDAH · DOHA · DUBAI ·
ELOUNDA BEACH · FLORENCE · FUKUOKA · GENEVA · GENEVA AIRPORT · GSTAAD · GUANGZHOU · HAMBURG ·
HANGZHOU · HANOVER · HOHHOT · HONG KONG · ISTANBUL · JEJU · KAOHSIUNG · KIEV · KOBE · KUALA
LUMPUR · KUWAIT CITY · LAS VEGAS · CAIRO · CAPE TOWN · LONDON · LOS CABOS · MACAO · MADRID ·
MANILA · MARBELLA · MARRAKECH · MARSEILLE · MAURITIUS · MEXICO CITY · MILAN · MONTE CARLO ·
MOSCOW · MUNICH · MYKONOS · NANJING · NASSAU · NEW DELHI · NEW YORK · ODESSA · OSAKA · PARIS ·
PALM BEACH · BEIJING · BEIJING AIRPORT · PORTO CERVO · QUEEN MARY II · RIYAD · ROME · ST. BARTHELEMY ·
ST. MORITZ · SAN JUAN · SENTOSA ISLAND · SEOUL · SHANGHAI · SHENYANG · SHENZHEN · SINGAPORE ·
SINGAPORE AIRPORT CHANGI T3 · SOFIA · SYLT · TAIPEH · TOKYO · VENICE · VIENNA · WENZHOU · WUXI ·
ZURICH · ZURICH AIRPORT
The trademarks, the corporate names, as well as all the designs of Chopard watch, jewellery
and accessory models are the exclusive property of Chopard.
Any imitations and counterfeits will be prosecuted.
The creations in this document are not reproduced to exact size. In the same way, the colours
and the sizes may differ slightly from the original and the carat weight of the stones can vary.
Published by Chopard & Cie SA, Geneva, Switzerland, www.chopard.com
Concept & Design latoutepetiteagence, Paris, France, www.latoutepetiteagence.com
GENTS CATALOGUE N°510 - 94104-0504
© LE PETIT-FILS DE L.U. CHOPARD & CIE SA
8, RUE DE VEYROT - 1217 MEYRIN 2 - GENEVA - SWITZERLAND
TEL +41 22 719 31 31 - FAX +41 22 719 31 35
WWW.CHOPARD.COM
Printed on FSC paper by NAVA Milano, Spa, Italy, 2011
276
20.09.11 11:07
www.chopard.com
Gents Catalogue N° 510 - 94104-0504

n°510 – timeinmovement time in movement

Transcription

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