the heritage hike - Stop Stansted Expansion

THE HERITAGE HIKE
Runway Ramble 2009
Sunday 20 September 2009
Organised by Stop Stansted Expansion in association with
The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings
By kind permission of Takeley Parish Council and with
grateful thanks to Douglas Kent, SPAB
and Stuart Walker, SSE
Note to Hikers…
Many of the properties you will pass on
The Heritage Hike
are still occupied, even though
now in BAA ownership.
Please be careful to respect the
privacy of the occupants during
today’s walk.
A DVD showing many of the historic buildings threatened by the expansion of
Stansted Airport and featuring Terry Waite CBE is being produced by the SPAB’s
Essex Regional Group. Copies can be ordered by sending a cheque for £5
payable to ‘SPAB Essex’ to:
Mrs V J Smith, Walnut Cottage, Stow Road,
Stow Maries, Purleigh, Essex CM3 6RR.
Introduction
The 2009 Runway Ramble – “The Heritage Hike” – is organised by Stop Stansted
Expansion in association with The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings.
Its route passes no fewer than 40 historic buildings (and many others of more
modern origins) that would be demolished or have their settings severely harmed
should the proposal for a second runway at Stansted Airport proceed.
Airports are now the greatest single threat to historic buildings since the Second
World War. The proposals for further development at Stansted are potentially the
most damaging of all. Many of the threatened buildings are supposedly protected
by law, and the scale of devastation, which the Government and BAA dismiss so
lightly, is nothing short of a national disgrace.
Contrary to popular stereotypes, Essex is one of the most richly endowed of all
English counties in terms of its historic buildings; and this part of rural Essex is
one of the most notable in England for its medium-sized and smaller historic
buildings, especially timber-framed, dating from the Middle Ages to the 17th
century. There is a greater density of timber-framed buildings here than almost
any other part of the country.
The local historic buildings are not grand, magisterial palaces designed formally
by architects but examples, in the main, of more humble ‘vernacular’ construction
– cottages, modest barns and other agricultural structures - produced by
craftsmen and influenced by local materials, tradition and climate. While timberframed buildings predominate, frequently with their old wattle and daub infill
panels retained, some older buildings are constructed of brick, flint or unfired
earth. External finishes provide excellent examples of pargeting and
weatherboarding.
Essex does not have dramatic natural features but, in the vicinity of Stansted, the
combination of so many historic buildings of outstanding quality, combined with a
setting that is nearly all very attractive in a gentle English way, creates a
landscape of exceptional significance. An isolated network of buildings, hamlets
and villages has typified this area for centuries. It defines and sustains a real
sense of place that enriches the lives of local people and visitors alike.
Although the historic buildings here have withstood the vicissitudes of war, the
worst excesses of 19th and 20th century industrialisation and more extreme
depredations of post-war planning, much of our remarkable architectural
inheritance is now, incredibly, at grave risk from airport expansion.
Heritage Hike – The Route
 The Heritage Hike sets off from Molehill Green, opposite the Three
Horseshoes pub. Walk up the left side of the green, passing the
houses and then trees on your left. After about 100 metres, ignoring
Waymark Post on the left (Footpath 13 crosses here), continue straight
ahead until you reach a gap in the trees. Go through this into a
wooded area and follow the path for about 350 metres until you arrive
at the junction near Waltham Hall. Here, go straight ahead to the
Waltham Hall complex of buildings.
Numerous buildings associated with Waltham Hall are sited around the road
junction and on the lane branching off towards Bambers Green. All are now
owned by BAA. The following are all Grade II listed and face demolition if the
second runway proceeds (although not all are visible from the public highway).
The Gatehouse Barn (pictured left),
can be seen to the west of the
Waltham Hall buildings. It is smallframed and weatherboarded (late 17th
century) and now in domestic use.
The Lofts, next to the road on the
right of the entrance, is timber-framed
and weatherboarded (18th century),
with a steep sheeted roof that was
probably once thatched.
The Stables, originally a cart lodge, with weatherboarded exterior, brick gable
facing the road and slate roof (19th century), can also be seen here together with
Le Grenier, a single-room granary, framed and weatherboarded with red plain tile
pyramidial roof (17th century), built as a stable or cart shed with a grain store
above. During building work for domestic conversion it was found that the floor
void was full of oats.
The Tythe Barn, a ten-bay barn (not nine bays as given in the official listing
description) has substantial framing (late 18th century possibly with older
elements) and a later, slate-covered roof. The Tythe Barn is now used for light
industrial storage. Nearby are a number of unlisted buildings of merit facing
demolition including more stables (19th century).
 Now walk away from the main road down the lane towards Bambers
Green.
Waltham Hall (pictured left - 17th
century with earlier elements) is the
first house on the right. It is Grade II
listed and threatened with demolition
under the airport expansion plans.
This generously built timber-framed
and rendered farmhouse has a red
plain tile hipped roof. It has a 19th
century extension (south end), slate
roof and modern extension (northeast corner). Mainly Georgian, it
incorporates earlier elements that
are of great interest. Waltham Hall looks out across an abandoned moated
manorial site, is a scheduled ancient monument, on the opposite side of the lane
(looking left, behind the modern barn, as you walk up the lane). For most of the
medieval period it was owned by the Abbey of Waltham Holy Cross, hence the
name of the Hall.
Within the ‘curtilage’ – the immediate surroundings – of Waltham Hall, and
included with the listing, are various outbuildings. Along the north-east wall next
to the road to Bambers Green is a timber-framed animal shed (c19th century)
with cobbled floor and plain tile roof. There is also a brick and flint shed with
slate roof at the west end of the south-east wall, possibly built as a cartshed (18th
or 19th century). The brick and timber-framed weatherboarded tackroom with
tiled roof along the south-western side, is the subject of modern conversion.
After Waltham Hall comes the Chapter House, a small cottage which has been
added to and, from the front, now looks fairly modern even though its origins are
much older. The brick and slate Waltham Hall Cottages are of the same period.
 Continue walking towards Bambers Green. Note the ancient oaks
along this lane which would disappear under BAA’s plans.
Takeley Water Tower (1938, threatened with demolition) will shortly come into
your view through the trees on the right. A prominent concrete water tower that
rises above the tree tops, it comprises a circular tank on an octagonal core with
eight columns. It is one of 12 inter-war water towers in Essex.
Little Grange (on the left just after the bend) in Bambers Green is a late 16th
century or earlier Grade II listed building, also threatened with demolition. With
The Grange and its outbuildings nearby, it forms an attractive informal group in a
quiet ‘protected lane’. Behind the rendered exterior is a good quality timber frame,
with carpenter’s marks, originally made to assist with its assembly, still visible
inside. The hipped, clasped purlin roof with three dormers is covered with red
plain tiles. There is a modern porch at the front. The building’s origins are
possibly associated with the former monastic grange and moated site nearby.
Now in BAA ownership, it was once a small farm.
The Grange (pictured left – 16th or
17th century or earlier) is another
Grade II listed building threatened
with demolition. It is a timber-framed
building beneath an external render
decorated with herringbone
pargeting. The roof is of red peg
tiles, below which is a supporting
structure incorporating various
ancient re-used timbers (and now a
home for bats). It has a red brick
chimney stack with grouped diagonal
th
shafts. A 19 century extension exists to the rear. The older, medieval moated
site on which the house is built is a scheduled ancient monument. According to
local historian Pat Salmon, it seems The Grange – full name ‘The Grange of Tilty
Abbey’ – was more important than has been realised. In the 14th century or
thereabouts, Tilty Abbey was well-known for producing and exporting some of the
very best wool but, of course, it was farms like The Grange that were responsible
for the production. A field next to the Grange is - or was - called ‘Shepcote’ which
seems to support this thinking.
The Granary to the east of The Grange (Fantasia) is an 18th century, Grade II
listed building. It consists of a small-framed, three-bay, weatherboarded barn/
stable with half-hipped slate roof, extended and changed by conversion to a
house and office. Like the three-bay cart lodge to the east of The Grange (19th
century, Grade II listed), it is also threatened with demolition. The cart lodge is
timber-framed and of yellow brick, three bays long and open at the front with a
grey slate roof. It is now used as the garage for ‘Fantasia’. A little further along,
hidden behind the 20th century stables on the edge of the lane is Grange Lodge.
 Continue down the lane until you reach the western end of Bambers
Green and the crossroads.
At the western end of Bambers Green is a noticeable concentration of Grade II
listed buildings. While these are not facing outright demolition, their settings
would be severely compromised by their proximity to an expanded airport.
Approaching the junction, look left just before the corner to see Gardiner’s Croft.
This is a timber-framed and thatched house with three eyebrow dormers (17th
century), dendro (tree-ring) dated to 1632, which suffered a fire caused by an
incendiary bomb in the Second World War.
 At the junction look to the right to see the row of modern homes
whose setting is also under threat.
 Now turn left and follow the road around the gentle right hand bend.
On the right hand side of the road, is the converted granary of Bury Farmhouse
(‘The Old Granary’), just before the driveway. This is timber-framed and
weatherboarded with a tiled half-hipped roof (18th century). Bury Farmhouse
itself (17th century), set back from the road, is timber-framed and rendered with a
red plain tile half-hipped roof, red brick chimney stack with diagonal shafts and
mantel beam (dated 1671) and a small bakehouse at the rear. There is a
converted three-bay barn to the left of the driveway, timber-framed and
weatherboarded with half-hipped tiled roof (17th century).
In its planning application, BAA suggests that ten of the listed buildings within
the expanded airport perimeter could be ‘saved’ by moving some of their
components to create new buildings behind Bury Farmhouse. However, little of
what gives the buildings their special character would survive and they would exist
entirely out of context, creating a heritage Disneyland. The Grange would be
reconstructed further along this lane with a fake medieval moat, immediately next
to Sheering Hall which is a real medieval moated building.
Further along the road, behind the railings on the right, are the stable and
carriage house of Sheering Hall (mid-19th century Grade II listed), whose setting
would be severely compromised by airport expansion. These are constructed of
brick under a slate roof. There was once a hayloft above with a door at the east
end. The wall (flint and red brick), seven stone capped piers, railings and gate
to Sheering Hall come next, fronting the road (all early 18th century, Grade II
listed), whose setting would also be severely harmed.
Sheering Hall (pictured left), is next
door (15th century with extensive 18th
and 19th century alterations, Grade II*
listed (‘two star’)). It is also threatened
in terms of its setting. This is an
example of a building whose intrinsic
interest is not at first obvious because
of its later façade. Internally, most of
the substantial medieval timber frame
is still evident, with moulded joists,
arch braced tie beams and crown post
roofs (including smoke-blackening
from open fires prior to the insertion of
a chimney stack and upper floor). There is good 18th century detailing, including a
staircase, doors and cupboards. The site contains the remains of a moat and
water works. The byre to the east of Sheering Hall (15th century, Grade II listed)
is timber-framed, rendered and weatherboarded.
 Bambers Green is ahead, but at the first willow tree, turn back to return
to the junction, looking at the houses on the right whose setting is also
threatened.
Old Thatch comes first, timber-framed and thatched with render and
weatherboarding (17th century). It is now owned by BAA and was recently
damaged by flooding while unoccupied for a long period.
Further along is Elder Cottage (late 17th century) is next door - timber-framed and
rendered with a red plain tile roof. Rose Cottage (18th century) is on the corner of
the junction. Its the older part is a single storey thatched structure built of unfired
earth beneath render.
 Now turn right up Cobbs Lane which used to be the main thoroughfare
between Bambers Green and Broxted, named after Lord Robert Cobb
who had an estate in the area in the 13th century. Today it is part of the
long distance walk of the Harcamlow Way.
As you turn the corner and pass Rose Cottage, you will come upon Walnut Tree
Cottage (pictured below – 17th
century), also on the right. This is a
thatched timber-framed and rendered
building dated by an internal joint to
1620/30 and last re-thatched in 2001
using long straw grown at Hatfield
Heath.
Almost opposite on the left is The
Fox, a former pub, the exterior of
which is enlivened with modern
pargeting.
After The Fox, when the view opens out, look to your right and see, in the
distance, the Little Easton Water Tower.
 Continue on Cobbs Lane for about 900 metres and, as the view opens
out, look right to see, in the distance, Little Easton Water Tower. At
the end of this stretch cross the River Roding.
Here the River Roding is usually not much more than a dried-up ditch. It can also
be seen as a duckpond and ditch at the Three Horseshoes, Molehill Green, but its
source is actually under what is now Stansted Airport. Downstream of this walk,
the River Roding becomes a very important tributary to the River Thames.
 30 metres after crossing the river, turn left up a small bank. Follow the
field-edge path for 100 metres, then turn left and cross a bridge.
 Cross another bridge after 20 metres (River Roding again) and
continue straight ahead for 90 metres.
 Turn right, and walk through the middle of a field for 200 metres, cross
another bridge, then turn left onto the field-edge path.
 After 50 metres, turn right, then follow field-edge path for 350 metres.
Just before trees, turn left for 5 metres, then turn right and enter a path
through a small wood. Follow this path for about 150 metres, then go
straight ahead at a junction, where a Byway (37) comes in from the
right. Now on a wide track, continue for 150 metres to the end of
School Lane, where we now pick up again on our historic buildings.
The first house on the right indicates the start of School Lane, Molehill Green,
where today BAA owns all the properties with just two exceptions. This house,
Roseleigh, was the only one in the village to be hit by a bomb during WW2 (its
owner was on fire duty). The old house has since been replaced with a bungalow.
While it would not be demolished under the plans for the second runway it would,
together with just a few neighbouring properties, be virtually isolated.
Further along School Lane is a series of small farmhouses and cottages. On the
right is Swan Farmhouse (18th century, Grade II listed), formerly a beer house
known as The Mole, which would survive the expansion plans but be severely
harmed in terms of its setting. The Rockies, on the left (a more modern house),
would see its land diminished by the expanded perimeter, depriving its owner of
grazing land for his animals.
Carter’s Farm (formerly Polley Luray
Cottage, pictured left) is also on the
left, a medieval house with a 17th or
18th century extension, Grade II listed
and threatened with demolition. It is
timber-framed and rendered, with a
thatched roof held up with pole rafters,
some of which appear to be of silver
birch. Investigation of the front wall
behind the render recently revealed
evidence of earlier weatherboarding.
The next house on the left, Ash Tree Cottage (18th or 19th century), is also
threatened with demolition. A small roadside cottage, it has a rendered exterior
and later extensions. This is followed by Franklins Cottage also on the left and,
on the right, The Hoppit. Then comes Murrayfield Farm, also on the right (19th
century), again threatened with demolition, whose construction is of brick with
some timber-framing. It was formerly known as Heard’s Farm. Sadly, an old barn
associated with this building was recently demolished. On the left is Murrayfield.
Also threatened with demolition is White House Farm (19th century) on the right,
a small farm created in the 1890s by Sir Walter Gilbey, the owner of the jam
factory at Elsenham who rebuilt most of an earlier house on this site. A single,
thatched bay of the latter survives at the east end (with an unfortunate plastic
window!). Formerly the Post Office, it was the first house in the village to have a
telephone installed. Just beyond are a modern house, then Little Orchard.
Next on the left is Yew Tree Cottage
pictured left as it used to be (18th
century or earlier, Grade II listed),
owned by BAA. It is shrouded by
scaffolding after a serious fire. It was
a good example of light, pole framing
formed of small branch timber with
bark. The render was decorated with
incised pargeting of combed patterns
and the roof was hipped and thatched,
with later timber-framed porch.
Hotspurs and Tiggers are on the right (both modern) and Sunny View, left,
opposite the weatherboarded house called The Bungalow, and Burnt Villas
(owned by BAA and the District Council). Blossoms is on the left on the corner.
Opposite Blossoms, at the end of School Lane, look right to see the old Village
Hall (1852), used as the village school until 1946. A single storey red brick
building, it has a rear extension and front porch dating from the 1860s. A historic
building, although unlisted, it faces demolition under BAA’s plans. Across the Tjunction you will see several houses including Tyrells (on the corner).
 Turn left at the T-junction, heading towards Molehill Green, passing
Brambles (a modern house) on the left.
Four BAA-owned houses currently stand empty around the area of the Village
Stores (on the left), two within the 19th century shop terrace of three timberframed properties with modern pargeting and a slate roof, Meadow View and The
Cottage, with Lyddon and Oakbury House opposite.
As you approach Molehill Green itself, you will see the Three Horseshoes pub
(15th to 17th century, Grade II listed) ahead on the right – recently bought by BAA
who propose to ‘relocate’ elements of it should expansion be permitted. With its
thatched roof and chimney stack, this important timber-framed building is
particularly attractive as the focal point of the village green. A crown post – a
medieval roof feature – survives in the attic and there are several outbuildings
listed within the pub’s curtilage, most notably a small timber-framed, thatched
barn/stable to the rear that appears to date from the 17th century.
Returning to the end of the walk on the Green is The Forge cottage with adjoining
working forge whose a cast iron tyring plinth is still outside where metal rims were
once prepared for fixing onto cartwheels. Next to The Forge are Valhalla and
Wheelwrights. All are under threat of demolition.
A Second Stansted Runway:
Unthinkable Destruction
BAA has submitted plans that, if approved, would result in Stansted Airport
becoming larger than any other in Europe today.
Construction would involve the callous destruction of at least 35 historic buildings,
including 13 listed or groups of listed buildings, and two scheduled ancient
monuments.
In addition, countless others would survive but with settings severely
compromised by their proximity to the sprawling airport and all its facilities.
The historic environment is a finite resource that cannot be replaced once it is lost.
BAA suggests that the destruction of listed buildings could be offset by relocating
ten of them but, in reality, proposes to do little more than incorporate a proportion
of the materials salvaged from dismantling the structures into new, replica
properties elsewhere. This won’t save them. Local people and visitors want to
live and work within the real heritage of the area, not a Disneyland monstrosity of
BAA’s creation.
Even with ‘only’ one extra runway, the toll on heritage would be extreme. It would
be inconceivable to permit the destruction of significant parts of our cultural
heritage to encourage people to fly to see attractive places abroad.
The world picture and aviation trends are changing, and the forward-look of 20
years – or a single generation – is insignificant when compared to the age of our
historic buildings, the generations who have lived in them and the useful life they
still have to offer by shaping our community. We cannot and will not tolerate the
appalling sacrifice of centuries-worth of heritage simply to serve the tail-end of an
unsustainable cheap flights boom.
We hope you have enjoyed the Heritage Hike and that it has helped your
understanding of the threat to our heritage and community. If you are not
already a member or online supporter of Stop Stansted Expansion and
would like to know more about our work and be kept in touch with details of
future events, or those of the Society for the Protection of Ancient
Buildings, please get in touch. Our contact details are overleaf.
Stop Stansted Expansion
Stop Stansted Expansion (SSE) was established in 2002 in response to the
Government's consultation on expanding UK airports and, particularly, to
address the threat posed by expansion plans for Stansted Airport
subsequently defined in the Air Transport White Paper in December 2003.
Our objective is to contain the development of Stansted Airport within tight
limits that are truly sustainable and, in this way, to protect the quality of life
of residents over wide areas of Essex, Hertfordshire and Suffolk, to preserve
our heritage and to protect the natural environment.
Our parent organisation, the North West Essex and East Herts Preservation
Association (NWEEHPA), was founded in 1965 in response to a similar
expansion threat and successfully defeated expansion proposals during the
decades that followed. SSE operates as a working group of NWEEHPA.
Stop Stansted Expansion:
PO Box 311 Takeley, Bishop’s Stortford CM22 6PY
01279 870558 • [email protected]
www.stopstanstedexpansion.com
The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings
The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB), founded by
William Morris in 1877, is the longest established UK organisation for the
care and protection of our historic buildings stock. The Society has played
- and continues to play - an important role in developing historic building
legislation and policy. Its philosophy has been instrumental in shaping the
UK approach to the conservation of the historic environment as practised
by local authorities, English Heritage, heritage bodies such as the National
Trust, architects, surveyors and other building professionals. Today the
SPAB is an educational, advisory and campaigning voluntary organisation.
Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings:
37 Spital Square London E1 6DY
0207 377 1644 • [email protected]
www.spab.org.uk