Congratulations on Adopting Your New Cat!

Transcription

Congratulations
on Adopting
Your New Cat!
San Francisco Animal Care & Control / 1200 15th St / San Francisco CA 94103 / 415.554.6364
Printed on 100% post-consumer recycled paper
From all of us at SF Animal Care & Control,
Congratulations on Your New Cat!
Starting off your relationship with your cat is fun, exciting, and quite the
adventure – but it never hurts to be prepared!
In this packet, you will find general information, frequently asked questions, and
behavior & training advice from a variety of exceptional animal welfare
organizations.
If you ever have any questions regarding your cat’s behavior, please feel free to
call us at the shelter!
General Shelter Services - 415.554.6364
Behavior & Training Department - 415.934.4821
Adoption Supply Checklist
 Collar
 ID Tag
 Cat Food
 Food & Water Bowls
 Toys & Teasers
 Flea Control
 Litter & Litter Box
 Treats
 Grooming Tools
 Bed
 Play Structure / Scratching Post
As an SF/ACC adopter, you are entitled to a free veterinary exam with SFVMA.
Appointments must be made within 3 working days of adoption.
***Don’t forget to register your new animal’s microchip!***
Welcome Home Kitty!
What To Expect From Your New Furry Friend
It is important to remember that – while your new cat is SO lucky to have you – transportation,
new caretakers, and new surroundings are stressful and can prove overwhelming. Making sure
your new family member starts off on the right paw requires not only certain equipment and
adjustments to your home, but patience and understanding for your feline companion.
The First Few Hours/Days:
When you arrive home, place the carrier containing
the cat in the “safe haven,” where you will be
confining her while she adjusts to her new home.
See below on how to ideally arrange this room.
Open the carrier and let the cat come out on her
own. She may not want to come out, or may spring
out at once - it all depends on the cat and their
level of confidence.
Visit her often in the safe room, play with her, love
on her - at her own pace. Never force attention or petting on your cat. Let her hang out in that
room until she is at the door BEGGING to be let out. This could be on the first day or it could be
several days; when she is completely comfortable in her safe haven and with the people in the
household, she will be increasingly curious about the rest of the home, pawing at the exit. Let
her explore the rest of the household at her own pace; often the exploring is done at night,
making brief excursions into the new territory, and rapid retreats back to familiar ground. If
there are other animals in the household, please see “Introducing Your New Cat to the Resident
Cat” and “Dog-to-Cat Introductions” to make sure first their impressions are positive!
Keep your eye on the cat as much as possible as they start to explore. It is a good idea to have a
collar with a bell on her so that you can hear her in case you can’t see her. This is especially
important with small cats or kittens who are more likely to get into tiny spaces that
you may not even know about. If you do find they have gotten under the stove,
behind the washing machine, or some other narrow spot, a toy is a great way to lure
them out. If they are food motivated, a treat trail back to you can also encourage them to come
out from hiding. Remember cats are curious and they will continue to push boundaries as their
confidence grows.
It takes time for many rescued animals to trust and respond to their guardians. Possibly the
greatest part of adoption is seeing your animal blossom into the cat she was meant to be.
Having patience and letting the cat approach you first is critical for instilling confidence and
comfort in a new environment.
“The Safe Haven” – Setup
The first thing any new adopter wants to do is let your
new cat get comfortable in their new home. For the
best transition, before you bring your new cat home,
designate a “safe” room to start her out in. Moving into
a new place can be stressful for cats, so this transition
should be gradual and could take days or even weeks. It
will also be a place for her to retreat to if she needs
space or alone time. If you have another cat or dog this
room becomes even more important.
Ideally, this room is small, quiet, can be closed off, and is mostly free of furniture or anything
your cat can hide in or under where you can’t get to her. The best rooms are usually a
bathroom, small bedroom, or large, ventilated closet. Place the cat’s food and water as far
away from the litter box as possible, some toys, something to scratch on, and bedding (it’s
great to put linens or clothing that has your smell on it with her so she can start getting used to
your smell). Be sure all windows are sealed shut or if you do need to provide ventilation, that
they are securely screened.
Settling In & Kitty-Proofing
Visit your new kitty in the safe haven when you can, cuddling, and most importantly, playing
with her. Play is the best way for a cat to build confidence, and confidence helps keep the cat’s
stress to a minimum and allows her to adjust more successfully.
Take advantage of the confinement time to make sure there are no toxic materials or other
hazards out in the household that the cat could get into. Ideally, get on the ground and see your
house from the cat’s point of view so that you have a better idea of what she would be exposed
to. Things like wires could hopefully be moved off the floor and precious objects moved out of
harm’s way. Take a look at the list of household hazards to get an idea of things that are
dangerous for your kitty. Also, the ASPCA’s online Poison Control Center has an exhaustive
database of toxic substances and you can also search to see whether something is poisonous to
your cat.
Is It Normal When…?
SF/ACC’s Behavior & Training department aims to be a resource for all of our adopters when
you are feeling overwhelmed, confused, or just need some facts! That’s fine – you’re a new
parent!
Please feel welcome to give us a call or shoot us an email whenever you need to and we will do
our best to answer your questions or get you the referrals you need. And please let us know
how you and your companion are faring – after all, everyone loves to hear a happy ending!
The Behavior & Training Department of SF/ACC
415.934.4821 / [email protected]
A Happy Cat is a Stimulated Cat!
Playtime with cats of all ages is important for their overall health and well-being. Whether an
older feline or kitten youngster, keeping them physically fit and mentally active will prevent
naughty boredom or stress-related behaviors such as excessive vocalization, obesity and
various medical problems as they age, and increase their day-to-day quality of life.
How to Play With Your Cat
Interactive Toys - While you may have lots of toys around the house for your cat, they’re
essentially “dead” prey; they don’t move. The only way to create action is if your cat bats at
them. The interactive, fishing pole type toys, or “teasers,” (fantastic options include Neko Flies
and Go Cat’s “DaBird” and “Cat Catcher”) are the best way to get your cat playing with you. This
way, she doesn’t have to be both predator and prey – she can simply focus on being the hunter.
How you move the interactive toy is important. Don’t wave it around frantically; instead, think
about how your cat naturally hunts. In the wild, a cat stalks her prey, staying as quiet and
invisible as possible, inching closer and closer, until she’s within striking distance. Your goal is to
move the toy like prey, alternating between fast and slow motions, traveling behind, under and
over things. TIP: your cat’s prey drive is triggered by movements
going away from or across her field of vision, so dangling the toy in
her face or moving it toward her will not excite her playfully.
Let her have plenty of captures throughout the game. If you were
a cat, it would be frustrating if you never got your paws on the
toy. This is one of the downsides of relying on laser pointers, as
the cat can never truly catch her prey. Interactive play can build
confidence and trust in your cat but in order for that to happen,
she has to be able to plan her moves and have successful captures. Store all interactive toys out
of your cat’s reach when you are not playing.
Puzzle Toys can be a great way to keep your cats entertained and mentally stimulated when
you can’t play with them. The toys are designed to be filled with treats, and they challenge kitty
to retrieve the treats through varied openings in the toys.
Rotate toys in and out. Don’t keep the same toys out in the same spot all the time – this will
almost guarantee that your cats will get bored with them. Put some toys away for a week or
two, and then bring them out again. Your cats will think they got a brand new toy. Of course,
you don’t want to do this if your cat has a favorite toy that she plays with all the time.
Cat toys don’t need to be expensive. To a cat, almost everything can become a toy: grocery
bags with the handles cut off, boxes, toilet paper rolls, milk carton tops, tissue paper – in a cat’s
mind, these were all just made to be played with. Some cats enjoy chasing bubbles, or batting
Q-tips around the bathtub. Or throw pieces of cat kibble across the room or down the hall for
kitty to chase and catch - think like a cat, and you may be surprised at the things you already
have in your home that make the purr-fect cat toy.
Pencil Me In! – Scheduled Play
Maintain a regular schedule of interactive play with your cat. Cats love routine, so try not to
change the play times. Aim for two or three (more if necessary) play sessions, of 10-20 minutes
each (depending on how athletic he is) at the times when he seems to be most active. The play
sessions should not stop until the cat is exhausted, lying on his side and batting at the toy
because he is too tired to jump or chase after it.
When it’s time to end the game don’t just suddenly stop and put the toy away. Your cat may
still be very revved up. Instead, wind the action down, in the same way you would do a cooldown after an exercise. Let the prey slowly get tired or injured so the
cat’s movements will naturally slow down as well. Then, leave your cat
with one final grand capture.
You’d be surprised what a ½ hour a day of playtime and fun can do for
a cat’s emotional and physical health! There are many ways to give
your cat what they need to thrive, but interaction with you is the most
important.
Environmental Enrichment
Giving your cat ways to stay physically active is a very important part of cat ownership. There
are many interactive play structures such as cat trees, window beds, and scratching posts to
choose from. Make sure you offer at least one of these structures to your new cat.
Scratching Posts
Scratching is a normal cat behavior that provides relief from over-grown nails, scent-marks their
favorite areas, and gives them some mental stimulation – all normal cat behaviors! Our job as
their guardians is to help provide acceptable outlets for this instead of
the couch, your La-Z-boy, or the bed!
The most common cause of furniture scratching is the lack of an
appropriate outlet for this normal cat behavior! Scratching posts,
located in an accessible & central area, will fulfill this need without the
drama.
To work with this behavior:
1. Give your cat an adequate scratching post. Scratching is a
natural behavior to mark their territory, stretch their muscles,
relieve stress, and give themselves a nice mani-pedi!
2. Correction or punishment, such as yelling or squirting with a
water bottle, is not appropriate in this case. Cats learn quickly
that the punishment only happens when humans are around,
and will just return to scratching furniture when you leave.
They may also scratch furniture anticipating some attention,
which can indeed be reinforcing even if it is negative.
3. Make the furniture an unappealing place to scratch by using tin-foil, double sided tape,
or a product called Sticky Paws. These are all unpleasant sensations for a kitty trying to
scratch.
4. Encourage your cat to use the scratching post by using treats, toys or catnip to lure
them into a natural stretching position. Praise them for using their post instead of the
couch if your cat seems to respond to that.
Window Beds
Window beds or perches that allow your cat to experience the world outside (without the
hazards) is a great, easy way to help keep your cat stimulated! Observing the birds outside,
experiencing the sounds and sights of the traffic and passers-by, all of this effectively becomes
“kitty-TV” and will help with boredom or attention-seeking
behaviors.
Cat Trees & Play Structures
Cats love to be high up and observe the goings-on of their
household; not only is it fun and good exercise to climb, it also
serves to give them a space away from other people or animals
when they need a break, decreasing the chance of potential
anxiety-related behaviors. Again, this is a normal cat behavior
that needs to have an outlet or say goodbye to your nicely-decorated bookshelves! Cat
furniture generally has scratching posts built into the structure, which can channel both their
scratching and climbing needs at once. We recommend that every household invest in a play
structure or at least provide shelving along a wall, like a cat climbing wall, that the cat can perch
on and call their own.
When they don’t have outlets for these needs, they may start climbing up on your dresser,
kitchen table or counters. In a playful mode, they may start batting at small objects, trying to
knock them off. Not only does this provide them with some playful activity, but they may get a
response from their human out of it – a major attention-seeking bonus for a bored feline.
1. Start by giving your cat its own cat condo or high-up
places to hang out, such as a padded shelf. More
interactive playtime with toys such as the cat dancer, in
addition to solo play toys (ping pong balls, fuzzy mice)
will provide much-needed mental stimulation.
2. Praise the kitty for using its cat tree, and make it a fun
place to be – try placing some catnip, kitty treats, or
solo play toys on the cat tree. Incorporate the kitty
condo into your interactive playtime – get your cat climbing or jumping on it to chase a
toy.
While rearranging your furniture and making time for play may not initially be appealing, this
relationship-building will enrich your cat’s life and keep kitty content during transition and after
the fact.
Overstimulation & Play “Aggression”
What is it & Why does it happen?
Play is a cat’s opportunity to express their innate instinct to hunt, chase and kill prey. The house
cat’s wild ancestors had to hone these skills in order to survive, and feral cats still need them.
Those that live inside with us may not need them but their natural urges never go away. That’s
why the domestic cat is always exploring new areas, investigating anything that moves, and
batting, pouncing, and biting anything that resembles prey.
Cats have two types of play behavior: solitary play and social play. Solitary play is directed
towards objects like boxes, strings, paper bags, and other toys. Social play is directed towards
fellow cats, people and other animals. A problem can arise when a cat’s play is directed towards
people, and despite his playful intentions, his claws and teeth hurt or injure his human
playmate. Although painful, this is not true aggression, which is most likely to occur when a cat
is frightened and feeling threatened. It is more likely that he is just playing roughly. It is
important to know how to read a cat’s body language, so one can determine a cat’s state of
mind (see the Body Language handout) and respond accordingly.
Usually, play-motivated “aggressive” behaviors are observed in young, active cats less than two
years of age, that live in one-cat households. Cats stalk, chase, pounce, swat, kick, scratch and
bite each other—all in good fun. However,
people often misinterpret this kind of
behavior as aggression when it’s directed
toward them. Cats that have other kittens
to play with while growing up learn to
inhibit their bite and claws when wrestling
with their brothers and sisters, knowing
when rough is too rough.
How people play with kittens or young cats can make the difference between kittens becoming
gentle cats or hard and rough players. Humans encourage the development of rough play by
playing with their cat, usually when it is young, with their body parts. Rough-housing with
bare hands is almost irresistible when kittens are small. Unfortunately, it’s also a great way to
teach a cat that bare hands are either threatening or okay to play with. It’s adorable when
they’re little, but when the cat is 15 pounds with adult teeth and claws…not so much! The
consequence is not being able to walk through the house without the cat pouncing on moving
feet or legs, or not being able to extend a hand to pet the cat without it getting gnawed on or
wrestled with.
These behaviors are absolutely fixable, although it will take time and consistent effort to instill
new habits in the cat and its human companions. Here are the first steps to take in order to
reduce rough play:
Never Play With Your Hands & Feet
Do not encourage your cat to play with your hands, feet or any other body part. While it may be
fun when you have a tiny kitten, it becomes painful and dangerous as your kitten grows up.
Never physically punish your cat for rough play. If you hit or slap your cat, he may perceive
your actions as play and become even rougher. Alternatively, he might become fearful of your
hands and respond by avoiding you or changing from play to true aggression. Never run from
your cat or try to block his movements with your feet, as that could cause your cat to intensify
his play or become aggressive.
Don’t Engage with Rough Play
If your cat starts to play roughly with your hands, arms, feet, or any other body part, do not
move or pull away quickly. Quick actions could be interpreted by the cat as playing and
encourage him to go after you. Instead, go limp or don’t move. The cat will soon lose interest
when he realizes you are no fun to play with.
Healthy Play: Redirect Play to Toys
Always use a toy to play with your cat. If you are petting her and she starts gnawing on you,
stop moving, say “no” and provide an alternative to your arm or hand, such as a stuffed animal
about the same size or long stuffed log toy she can wrestle with and gnaw on. Encourage her by
rubbing the toy against her belly so she can grab it with both front feet, bite it, and kick it with
her back feet.
If you are walking through the house and your cat jumps out in front of you directly into your
path, she is definitely trying to get your attention and wants to play. In these moments it is
important to play with her for a minute or two so that her urge is satisfied in a positive way.
Whether that’s breaking out a wand toy and making her jump a few times in a row or throwing
some kibble across the room for her to chase and catch, a brief session may suffice.
Cats are not always going to want to play when it is convenient
for their humans. But it is important to remember that they
don’t just want to play with toys, they want to play with YOU.
So it is vital to set aside time during your daily routine for play
sessions, or “play therapy.” For a lot of cats who play
inappropriately, turning their predatory drive on humans or
other animals in the home, the underlying problem is boredom
and excess energy. Provide a good workout at least twice a
day, and make sure to frequently provide your cat with new
objects to investigate, like paper bags or cardboard boxes.
Refer to the parts of your packet on cat home life for more on
how to play, what to play with, and environment enrichment.
When to Consider A Playmate!
If you are playing with your cat as much as possible and have made your cat’s territory
as large and enriched as possible, and she still seems to be bored and restless, consider
adopting another cat as a playmate. This is an especially good choice if your cat is still
young. If you do, choose one that is about the same age or younger and is as active and
playful as your current cat.
If you DO decide to get another furry feline to become a part of your family, make sure
you are prepared for the transition by doubling up on all the supplies listed on the first
page of your packet. Professionals recommend having one litterbox per cat, PLUS one to
avoid any development of litterbox issues, inappropriate urination, or territory disputes.
Also, please see the handout (Cat-To-Cat Introductions) to ensure that your cats have a
stress-free and lasting connection!
Resident Cat to Cat Introductions
Kitten-to-kitten introductions are usually easy and can be completed in a day or two unless one
of the kittens is very shy. Successful kitten-to-adult introductions often take longer, and the
older the cat, the longer it may take. Introducing adult cats to each other can be challenging so
the key to success is TIME and PATIENCE. The following guidelines are designed to help you
accomplish your goal with minimal stress for you as well as for the cats.
Step 1: Divide and Conquer!
Many cats are not happy with change – especially to their
environment. The resident cat may be stressed by the arrival
of a stranger and the newcomer may be unsettled by the loss
of his familiar routines and surroundings, even if those
surroundings have been the animal shelter. To avoid
reinforcement of the cats’ anxieties, everyone involved in the
introduction should try to stay as calm as possible during the
process.

Designate one room, preferably a small one, as
temporary quarters for your new cat (the “safe
haven”). Set up the room before he comes home, then take him into the room while he
is still in his carrier, unobserved by the resident cat, and close the door.

Block the space under the door with a rolled up towel for the first day or two. Then
remove the towel. The cats may start to sniff each other under the door. This may occur
more frequently at night.

Visit the newcomer often, with the door closed. Give him as much attention as he
wants, but don’t force your attentions on him. If he is shy or nervous, just sitting in the
room with him and talking softly may ease his anxieties. Let him have access to a hiding
place, such as a closet, a box, or his carrier.

When the new cat seems comfortable with you and his environment and is eating well,
start feeding the cats on either side of the closed door. If there is more than one person
in the household, give treats to the cats simultaneously while they are near each other
but separated by the door.

Try switching dishes, bedding, and toys to get the cats used to each other’s scents. If
either cat seems upset by this experiment, stop it.
Step 2: Supervised Introductions
 The next step is to open the door a tiny crack while you observe the cats’ interactions. A
little hissing can be expected, but if there is deep growling, yowling, bristling or
swatting, close the door. Wait a while and repeat the crack-in-the-door test until the
cats remain calm.

Finally, start leaving the door open for about 10 minutes at a time and let the new cat
explore the rest of the house. The resident cat may want to investigate the new cat’s
room. Keep an eye on them and if either cat is hostile and aggressive, go back to the
previous step.

After the cats have free run of your living quarters, be sure to have enough litter boxes.
Cat behaviorists recommend one box per cat, plus one. Be sure to keep the boxes well
scooped out and clean.

Don’t neglect your resident cat during this process. Give her plenty of attention and
reassurance. If she is seriously stressed, her hostility and aggression may be displaced
to you. If that should happen, don’t be discouraged or feel guilty. Continue to be
supportive, and as her stress level falls, the displaced aggression will be abated and your
original relationship will be restored.

Set aside time to give treats and play with both cats at the same time so they will learn
that being together has positive rewards. By the same token you can reward them with
treats and praise when they seem to be getting along. Don’t punish them or shout at
them when they misbehave; this will only reinforce their anxieties. Remember, cats
learn by positive reinforcement, or rewards. Punishment simply doesn’t work and will
stress your cats further – making introductions a bad experience and peaceful
cohabitation VERY unlikely.

Cats generally prefer to keep some distance between them. Nonphysical signs of
aggression such as hissing and growling are ways of keeping this distance as well as
defining territorial limits. Cats also communicate to each other by subtler means that
are imperceptible to humans. Even the best of cat friends get into quarrels occasionally,
and it is best not to interfere unless in the rare event a fight turns serious and blood is
drawn. (Incidentally, if you ever need to break up a cat fight, you can clap your hands,
drop a book on the floor, toss a towel or blanket over the cats, drop a pillow between
them, or spray them with water. NEVER USE YOUR HANDS TO SEPARATE FIGHTING
CATS. Cats bites can result in very serious infections.)

It could take several months or more for their disputes over territory to diminish. Don’t
be disappointed if they fail to become closely bonded buddies. Peaceful co-existence
may be the best you can hope for. On the other hand, you could be in for a very
pleasant surprise!
Cat-to-Dog Introductions
Before embarking on the journey of cross-species integrating, it is very important that you
expect to give adequate time for your new dog & kitty to co-exist – what’s a few weeks of
training for a lifetime of friendship?! Dogs will look at cats one of three ways: Playmate, Prey, or
Benign. Regardless of previous behavior around other animals, expect
mediation until both animals are comfortable and a few rough days where
one or both animals find each other a bit stressful.
The Introduction Process – ensuring a successful meeting:
Separate the animals
• Across a few days, rotate which animal has freedom and which is
confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s
scent.
• Confine the dog off and on to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate.
• When no one is home, the dog and cat MUST be physically separated.
• Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating and
using the litter box normally, you can proceed.
Make leashed introductions
• Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely
leashed and reward his attention on YOU when he turns from the cat.
• Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat.
• If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part continue to keep them
separated.
• Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other.
• When no one is home, the dog and cat MUST be physically separated.
Allow unsupervised interactions
• Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around
each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you see that they are
comfortable in each other’s presence. Most importantly, always make sure your cat has an
escape route as this will keep him “in control” when he begins to get uncomfortable. Never
force them to be nearer to one another – allow this to happen naturally.
Warning Signs
•If the dog remains fixated, completely ignores you or lunges suddenly as soon as the cat
moves, this is probably a dangerous match.
•If it is your cat who is growling, hissing or swatting, give the cat a break and try again on
another day. If the cat stops eating, drinking, using the litter box or visiting with family
members, she is not happy. You might want to consider finding a better match or contacting a
professional animal behaviorist for advice.
Litterbox Training 101
Most cats & kittens immediately take to the litterbox and “train” themselves! However, if you
are not one of those lucky few, not to worry – Litterbox Training is simple and effective.
Whether you are litterbox training a kitten or an adult cat, the procedure is the same.
Regardless of your cat’s history, pretend you are introducing the litterbox for the very first time.
The two most important aspects of litterbox training are:
1. Ensure the litterbox is EASILY accessible to your cat. If you have a larger home or
apartment, consider investing in two boxes to ensure it is there when your cat needs it!
2. Make sure the litter is cleaned DAILY and fully changed at least twice per week.
Cleanliness is a Cat Necessity
Your cat does not simply need a litterbox - she needs a clean box with fresh litter. The cat will
be inhibited from using the box if it smells of another cat so make sure to purchase a brand new
box. The litterbox must be cleaned daily and fully changed at least twice a week.
Make sure that the litterbox is in an appropriate place. Cats do not like to soil
the area close to their sleeping or eating areas, so try to locate the box some
distance away. Some additional factor may be inhibiting the cat from using the
litterbox, so put down an extra one in a different location. If there is more than
one cat in the house, have several litter boxes available.
Until the cat is fully housetrained, she should not be allowed to have free run of the house.
When you leave the house for any length of time, the cat should be confined to a single room,
such as a kitchen, bathroom, or utility room. The cat should be provided with water and a warm
place to sleep at one end of the room and a freshly cleaned litterbox at the other end.
A variety of other factors might also cause the breakdown of housetraining. There may be social
changes: a new cat in the neighborhood or children home on vacation. Cats often react to any
type of stress by suddenly urinating or defecating outside the litterbox.
Please Note: Urinary tract problems also cause cats to urinate in places other than the litter
box. Any sudden change in elimination habits should be discussed with your veterinarian.
Praise – To Do or Not To Do
Praising your cat immediately after using their litterbox DOES work for some cats in reinforcing
this desired behavior. In order to praise the cat for eliminating in her box, you must be there at
the time your cat eliminates. To help you predict when your cat will need to eliminate, feed her
at regular times. If the cat’s edible input is provided on a regular schedule, the output will
follow likewise.
A light play session after meals will likely lead your cat to answer nature’s call! Call her to her
litterbox from a variety of places around the house, particularly areas where she has soiled in
the past if that has occurred. When the cat gets to the box, scratch the litter to get her
interested.
Similarly, if the kitty takes a long nap she’ll likely wake up and need to eliminate. Encourage
kitty to hop into the box, and praise her when she does so. Even if she does not eliminate, she is
learning that the box is a great CLEAN place to be. If the cat does eliminate, praise her in a
gentle voice and treat her if she is food motivated!
Keeping Your Cat Indoors
For cats, the great outdoors are anything but great. Whether they live in the city, in the
suburbs, or in the country, outdoor cats face a multitude of dangers. They risk getting hit by a
car, feline leukemia, attacks by dogs, poisoned food, pesticides, cat fights, fleas, ticks, worms,
abscesses, getting lost, getting stolen, traps, human cruelty, wild animal attacks, rainy weather.
The average life span of an outdoor cat is a few years, whereas an indoor-only cat can live 15 to
20 years. Indoor cats are usually healthier, too, which saves on veterinary bills. Although many
cats enjoy being outside, going outside is not a requirement for feline happiness. Here are some
tips for making the great indoors interesting & feline-friendly:
Start young - Kittens who are kept indoors usually show no desire to venture outside when they
grow up.
Fence me in - Provide a screened porch or other safe way for your cat to experience the
outdoors. Consider building or purchasing a "catio" or similar enclosure. Such an enclosure can
allow your cat to experience all the pleasures of the great outdoors without the risks.
Environmental Enrichment -Install a perch indoors near a sunny window. Another option is an
enclosure that sits in a window frame (much like an air conditioning unit) and provides a secure
space in which your kitty can "hang out." Buy a ready-made cat tree (or a "kitty condo"), or
make your own. A cat tree may stretch from floor to ceiling or be shorter. It provides great
climbing opportunities and, in multi-cat households, creates more play and rest areas by taking
advantage of vertical space. If you can, locate the cat tree next to a window so your cat can
watch the action outdoors.
Play time - Play with your cat each day. Try different types of toys that allow your cat to stalk,
chase, pounce, and kick. Leave out "toys" such as paper bags or cardboard boxes. Switch toys
from time to time so that they seem "new" and more interesting to your cat.
Bring the outdoors in - Plant cat grass (available from pet supply stores) in indoor pots so your
feline can graze.
A Note on Declawing
Cats use their claws to exercise, play, stretch, climb, hunt and mark their territory. Although
your cat might use your hands or furniture for these activities, declawing is NOT the answer.
Declawing is a painful and difficult operation. It is the same as removing the first joint on all
your fingers. Not only does this impair the cat’s balance and causes weakness from muscular
disuse, declawed cats are defenseless against potential
threats. You may know that your indoor cat will never have
to climb a tree in order to escape from the neighbor’s
Chihuahua, but your cat doesn’t know it. Declawing makes a
cat feel insecure and defenseless.
There are alternatives to declawing; exercise and play with your cat regularly, give him a
scratching post and teach him to use it, or trim your cat’s nails on a regular basis. Declawing is a
painful and inhumane practice; there are much better ways to get the behaviors you’d like. If
you are having trouble with scratching, please feel free to call us at the shelter for a plan of
action!
Reading Your Cat’s Body Language
The most important parts of the cat’s body to focus on when “reading” your cat are the eyes
and tail. The faster and harder the tail is swishing, the more stimulated the cat is. This could be
positive or negative – they are excited and about to pounce on their prey, or they are irritated
from being pet too long and are about to tell you in a more direct way (with their teeth). The
eyes dilate not only to let in more light in darker areas or times, but as they get more excited.
You will often see a cat’s eyes fully dilated when they are about to pounce on their prey. At the
same time, the eyes also dilate when they are extremely scared. If you notice a cat’s tail moving
or eyes dilated dramatically, they are telling you they are worked up in some way, and it is best
to approach carefully.
SF/ACC-Approved
Informational Resources
Cat Behavior & Training
ASPCA - www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist
SF/SPCA – https://www.sfspca.org/behavior-training/cat-behavior-resources
American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior – www.avsabonline.org
Dr. Sophia Yin - http://drsophiayin.com/resources/cat_behavior
Sacramento SPCA - http://www.sspca.org/pet-carebehavior/behaviorresourcelibrary/
Jackson Galaxy – www.jacksongalaxy.com
In-Home Cat Behavior Help
Feline Minds – www.felineminds.com
Go, Cat, Go Behavior Counseling – www.gocatgosf.com
Books
Anitra Frazier
The Natural Cat
Jackson Galaxy
Cat Daddy: What the World’s Most Incorrigible Cat Taught Me…
Catification: Desgining a Happy & Stylish Home for Your Cat
Pam Johnson-Bennett
Cat vs. Cat: Keeping the Peace When You Have More Than One Cat
Think Like A Cat: How to Raise a Well-Adjusted Cat- Not a Sour…
ASPCA
ASPCA Complete Guide to Cats
John Bradshaw
CatSense: How the New Feline Science Can Make You a Better
Friend…
Arden Moore
The Cat Behavior Answer Book
Bruce Fogle
Complete Cat Care Manual

Congratulations on Adopting Your New Cat!

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