food of place - Auberge Resorts
Transcription
food of place - Auberge Resorts
FO OD OF PL ACE AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION A P R O G E S S I V E N A PA VA L L E Y DINING EXPERIENCE Course-Hopping with Auberge Resorts Chefs LOCAL INGREDIENTS Chefs Grow Their Own and Source from Prized Purveyors BARBEQUES! From Poolside to Seaside ON THE FRONT BURNER Delicious Recipes to Cook at Home CALENDAR New Events Not to Be Missed THE 4 Ps: PA R M E S A N • PA S TA • P R O S C I U T T O + P L AC E 2 0 1 5 Food of Place WELCOME TO ANOTHER ISSUE OF THE AUBERGE RESORT’S FOOD OF PLACE MAGAZINE! FI JI . AUBERGE S T Y LE . Food of Place celebrates the essence of each resort’s location with a focus on phenomenal food and wine experiences that are locally inspired. This year’s offerings at each of our properties are truly extraordinary, from specialized events that pay tribute to both the craft and industriousness of local farmers, to classes that feature the latest health-conscious concepts and clean food initiatives. Each of these well-thought-out culinary adventures will help guests connect with the respective destination in a sincere and delectable way. Within these pages, you will have the opportunity to preview this year’s Food of Place program at each of our destinations, and hear first-hand from our executive chefs about the inspirations behind each event as well as the intrinsic connections they have personally made with the land and community around them. Food of Place not only celebrates the culture and flavor of each of our locations, but also the heartfelt efforts that each member of our team intertwines into the very fabric that makes every experience so memorable. The Auberge Resorts Collection continues to grow, with our most recent additions in Anguilla and Fiji. This in turn, gives travelers even more opportunities to enjoy one-of-a-kind epicurean experiences in idyllic settings the world over. Please join us and celebrate Food of Place at Auberge Resorts this year! Craig Reid President & Chief Executive Officer Auberge Resorts Collection Just one cove down from the new Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji, a private enclave of homesites awaits you. Along Fiji’s most desirable beachfront, Nanuku Ocean Estates offers all the beauty, adventure, and culture of the real Fiji — with amenities and services provided by Auberge. Our special real estate discovery package will immerse you and yours in unforgettable experiences here at the water’s edge. Learn more about Nanuku on page 7. EXPLORE OUR Ocean Estates Fiji FOOD OF PLACE DESTINATIONS Auberge du Soleil, Napa Valley, CA OPENING SOON Calistoga Ranch, Napa Valley, CA VieVage Los Cabos, Los Cabos, MX (2016) Archetype, Napa Valley, CA Auberge Beach Residences, Ft. Lauderdale, FL (2017) Esperanza, Cabo San Lucas, MX Auberge Residences at The Aspen Club, Aspen, CO (2017) Hotel Jerome, Aspen, CO Auberge Resorts Sun Valley, Sun Valley, ID (2017) Malliouhana, Anguilla, BWI VieVage Napa Valley, Napa Valley, CA (2017) Nanuku, Pacific Harbour, FJ Pronghorn, Bend, OR 1-844-OWN-FIJI (U.S.) OR +679 345 2110 (I NTERNATIONAL ) NANUKUFIJI . COM | | REALESTATE @ NANUKUFIJI . COM PACIFIC HARBOUR , VITI LEVU , FIJI Auberge Residences at Element 52, Telluride, CO 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 3 table 2 0 1 4 2 0 1 1 2 0 1 1 at the 2 0 1 3 GOTHAM journal A M A g A z i n e o f M o d e r n A M e r i c A n f o o d c u lt u r e CAROLINE MACDONALD Chief Marketing Officer & Executive Publisher A Bouley and Tsuji Collaboration TWO VISIONARIES, ONE CONCEPT Super Potato THE ESSENCE OF DESIGN Rising Star CHEF ISAO YAMADA Healthy Japanese Ingredients The Entertaining Issue FROM TOFU TO KELP T h e h e i r lo o m i ss u e Fundamentally Pure Recipes: DASHI, TOFU MISO SOUP, AND CL EAR SOUP WITH DUMPL INGS ATT F14.indd 1 GOT F13.indd 1 11/18/14 10:51 AM shaun Hergatt 2 0 1 2 2 0 1 2 2 0 1 2 2 0 1 2 Neue LiviNg food a rt, c u i s i n e , a n d c u lt u r e t h r o u g h t h e e y e s o f c h e f K u rt g u t e n b r u n n e r • d e ta i l s • 12/16/13 11:37 AM 2 0 0 9 2 0 0 9 Fall/Winter 2009–2010 t r av e l JOHN WASHKO VP Operations & Executive Publisher Publisher MICHAEL GOLDMAN Bouley Gastronomique A WORK OF ART An Artist’s Passion The Journey ILLUMINATING THE WALLS issue 1 The Light of Provence LANDSCAPES COME TO LIFE The World Champion of Cheese A MASTER AFFINEUR 2 0 1 4 Recipes : Che e s e F ondue And V e Ge TA BL e s NEL F12.indd 1 12/17/12 11:34 AM Bocuse d’Or usa i n s p i r i n g c u l i n a r y e x c e l l e n c e SHO S12.indd 1 6/12/12 2:31 PM Bouley F09.indd 1 CCC S14v2.indd 1 12/8/09 1:11:30 PM Bocuse d’Or usa i n s p i r i n g c u l i n a r y 9/30/14 8:58 AM 2 0 1 3 LIV E ITA LIA N ISSU E e x c e l l e n c e FROM RUSTIC TO ELEGANT GRAvITATING TOwARd ITALIAN LIFESTYLE SURROUNdEd bY ITALIAN dESIGN IN THE PAN COOkING FROM SCOTT CONANT’S ITALIAN PANTRY AROUNd TOwN FAvORITE FINdS FROM THE STAFF D est inat io n: Yo u nt vil l e, C a D est in at ion : n ew York C it Y issue 1 • vol.1 issue 2 • vol. 1 BDO F10.indd 1 11/10/10 3:53:44 PM BDO S10.indd 1 2 0 1 2 7/29/10 12:01:49 SCR F13.indd 1 INTRODUCING APRÈS-SKI IN ASPEN! 2 0 1 2 GEOFFREY ZAKARIAN FAV O R I T E FA M I LY- S T Y L E R E C I P E S F R O M O U R C H E F S David Burke Group C E L E B RAT I N G C RA F T A N D F L AVO R W I T H M I C H A E L C H I A R E L LO DID YOU KNOW? THE PLAZA BY THE NUMBERS terroir STATION TO STATION PASTA TIPS FROM TODD ENGLISH N o. 7 68 A R O U N D TO W N W I T H FA B R I C K ’ S C H E F A D I N L A N G I L L E magazine F O O D , D R I N K S , A N D L I V I N G A T T H E 12/12/13 4:34 PM napa valley vintners W I N E , P L A Z A F O O D , A N D C O N V E R S A T I O N CULINARY GENIUS GEOFFREY ZAKARIAN ARRIVES AT THE PLAZA LET THEM EAT CAKE! THE NEW TEA TIME at The Palm Court Attention to Detail Cocktail Hour CHIARELLO STyLE Team Bottega AMIGO BOB An Empire State of Mind at Spyglass Rooftop Bar With a Twist BALANCING THE CLASSICS Home Room A pRIVATE DINING ExpERIENCE 2 0 1 4 BOT S12 1 2 0 1 4 7/31/12 10:18 AM 11/18/14 9:50 AM 768 F14.indd 1 the good life NAPA VALLEY INSIDER A LOCAL’S GUIDE Delicious Recipes from The Todd English Food Hall No. 768 2 0 1 4 1 9/29/14 2:30 PM NVV S14.indd 1 divinediNiNg SM SM L A DOL C E VI TA 6/19/14 1:49 PM A NEW EpicurEAN ExpEriENcE 2 0 1 4 divinediNiNg full circle chef C E L E B R AT I N G C R A F T A N D F L AV O R Plus! 2 0 1 4 DB F14_PRESS.indd 1 H U N T E R S A N D G AT H E R E R S F RO M F I E L D TO TA B L E O N TA P T H E B E ST B E LG I A N B R E WS O UR NEW RESTAURANT, B ARC H ETTA I N T H E PA N 2 0 1 3 C H E F W I E D M A I E R ’ S FAVO R I T E R EC I P E S FCC F14.indd 1 11/17/14 2:51 PM LDV S14.indd 1 6/18/14 3:33 PM Photography TRINETTE+CHRIS trinettereed.com CHLOE JACKMAN chloejackman.com JOHN BENNETT ADDITIONAL IMAGES COURTESY OF AUBERGE RESORTS Local Wine, Local Food Community Roots Best in Bottle Cultivating Excellence THE TIKI-DRINK COMEBACK ExpERIENCE AND ENERGy The Wine Whisperer Editor-in-Chief PAMELA JOUAN Design Director JANA POTASHNIK BAIRDesign, Inc. Managing Editor CHRISTIAN KAPPNER Assistant Editor STEPHANE HENRION Senior Copy Editor KELLY SUZAN WAGGONER Contributing Writer PAMELA JOUAN DDM S13.indd 1 chef david bouley SpriNg chlorophyll Soup With SWEEt pEAS, ASpArAguS, FAvA BEANS, AromAtic hErBS, ANd goldEN oSEtrA cAviAr 5/24/13 10:00 AM Advertising Inquiries 718.288.8688 HauteLife Press a division of C-BON MEDIA, LLC. 321 Dean Street Suite 1 Brooklyn, NY 11217 www.hautelifepress.com [email protected] Subscription Inquiries 718.288.8688 [email protected] or visit www.hautelifepress.com HauteLife Press makes every effort to ensure that the information it publishes is correct but cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. Printed and bound in the U.S.A. © 2015 All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. MEETHAUTELIFE.COM NANUKU AUBERGE RESORT FIJI Luxury, Culture, Adventure … Naturally It’s Nanuku Few places in the world so profoundly engage the senses as Fiji—enticing, exotic, alive. The Fiji you imagine is at its most enchanting at Nanuku. Serene, lush, and authentic, the Nanuku experience quietly emerges from the drama where the ocean and mountains meet— as they do so spectacularly here, where a ribbon of sand is washed by the blue water. A sanctuary for relaxation and discovery set within a pristine and private cove, Nanuku Auberge Resort offers 18 Balinese-style suite and villa accommodations furnished with relaxed contemporary and Fijian décor and featuring expansive decks, private plunge pools, and ocean views. Nanuku’s Club House is the private hub for resort guests and boasts beautifully landscaped gardens and sea views through a colonnade of handcrafted Fijian decorated posts. The chic Lomana Spa and Wellness Centre includes a fitness center (with personal trainer on standby), a hair salon, the Lailai Children’s Club, and a guest library. Guests can learn skills from local artisans in the Cakava Creative Workshop, from grass-skirt weaving to tapa printing. The Kanavata Restaurant and Lounge Bar looks Nanuku is an invigorating blend of simple pleasures and extraordinary experiences. A vast and diverse array of transformative adventures. 6 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 out across an infinity pool to an azure lagoon framed by coconut palms. The Sunset Deck is located poolside, and the Wai Pool Bar serves tropical drinks. A TASTE OF FIJI Nanuku Auberge Resort offers personalized dining experiences in stunning locations within the Club House, in your villa, or on private picnics in the hinterland. Laze away the morning with a decadent sleep-in, and let your butler cook up eggs Benedict just the way you like it in your own villa kitchen. Dine poolside in your own tropical garden and slowly let the day unravel, or let us arrange a trip to our private Nanuku Island with a decadent lobster picnic hamper, complete with a bottle of champagne—and get shipwrecked the five-star way. If you were up at dawn and managed to catch a big one, the chef will cook your fish to perfection on the barbecue grill at the Sunset Deck and Bar with newfound friends. The daily table d’hote menu features locally sourced, seasonal produce; freshly caught fish; and an abundance of tropical fruit and vegetables straight from the farmers’ market. Innovative cocktails that showcase local ingredients, including the legendary Nanuku caprioskas, are the order of the day at the Kanavata Restaurant and Lounge Bar. Overlooking a warm, pristine, coral-fringed lagoon, kick back with family and friends and watch the sun set on another perfect Fiji day. For Information: 679.345.2100 nanuku.aubergeresorts.com NANUKU OCEAN ESTATES YOUR HOME IN FIJI, WITH AUBERGE ADVANTAGES If you could ask for anything in a vacation home, what might it be? Warm, turquoise waters lapping a crescent beach fringed with swaying palms? Exotic adventures that make every day different? Luxury, exclusivity, and ever-attentive services? Being surrounded by “the friendliest people on earth” who are always smiling, singing, and celebrating the natural wonders and culture of Fiji? in-residence catering; spa services; resort amenities and activities; and concierge assistance. Auberge offers property management for when you are away, and you may place your home into the resort rental program for investment return. Another plus, Nanuku Ocean Estates owners can participate in Auberge’s worldwide home-exchange program. This is your world when you own a home at Nanuku Ocean Estates—an intimate collection of private properties located on one of Fiji’s best beaches—benefiting from a close proximity and affiliation with Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji. Nanuku is located on the south coast of Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu. Viti Levu’s Nadi International Airport has direct flights from LAX daily. Nanuku is an hour from Fiji’s capital, Suva, and while it is tucked away, it is also close to shopping and other conveniences, including a new state-of-the-art medical center. Through the resort, Nanuku Ocean Estates homeowners have access to a butler, a nanny, and housekeeping services; Specifically, Nanuku is located in Pacific Harbour, known as the “Adventure Capital of Fiji.” Here is some of the world’s best snorkeling, scuba, and surfing along with waterfall hikes, rainforest ziplines, shark dives, and deep-water fishing. Go sailing, kayaking, or paddleboarding where you can see through to the ocean floor. Whatever your pleasure, simply ask the concierge and consider it done. Nanuku Ocean Estates is a rare opportunity because only a fraction of Fiji’s beachfront is available for private ownership. (Most of Fiji is owned by the crown or tribes and can only be leased.) Nanuku’s beach is so special, in fact, that the president of Fiji keeps a home here. One of the best ways to experience having a home at Nanuku is via the real estate discovery package: four days and three nights at Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji from $1,500 per couple. Visit nanukufiji.com and contact [email protected], 1.844.OWN.FIJI (U.S.), or +679.345.2110 (international) for more information. 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 7 VIEVAGE LOS CABOS A Relaxed, Modern Resort to Arrive on the Best Beach in Los Cabos Summer 2016 dream in luxury Welcome to the Auberge resorts sleep experience VieVage Los Cabos, an intimate new beachfront resort currently in development on a treasured stretch of beachfront on the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula, will be the first property under Auberge Resorts Collection’s new contemporary lifestyle brand. The resort, nestled within the 1,200acre area of Chileno Bay, will appeal to sophisticated travelers who appreciate a casual and active lifestyle, connecting with family and friends in an inviting, modern setting. 8 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 courtesy of For Information: 624.122.0440 vievageloscabos.com The VieVage Los Cabos experience will revolve around the beach renowned as the best in Cabo for its calm, swimmable waters, natural reef, and family-friendly tide pools. In this idyllic setting, where the desert meets the sea, endless opportunities for relaxation and recreation range from such water activities as surfing, paddleboarding, and snorkeling to such land adventures as hiking or golf at the new Tom Fazio–designed golf course that is already being hailed as one of his best. 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 9 AUBERGE RESIDENCES & SPA FORT LAUDERDALE BASK IN THE ELEGANCE OF TRUE BEACHFRONT LIVING Auberge Beach Residences & Spa brings the ultimate in luxury living to Fort Lauderdale’s most extraordinary oceanfront property. Exquisitely designed residences, a rich array of indoor and outdoor amenities, a tempting selection of restaurants, and a world-class spa are perfectly located directly on 450 linear feet of pristine Atlantic Ocean beachfront. Throughout Auberge Beach Residences & Spa, a curated collection of contemporary art creates an atmosphere of true sophistication and an unprecedented level of personal service ensures that your every need is catered to with ease. The first project of its kind in Fort Lauderdale, Auberge Beach Residences & Spa will be the most refined high-rise and only on-the-sand luxury residential offering in the destination. Housed in two iconic structures, the unparalleled luxury residences will feature sweeping ocean views and expansive terraces for year-round indoor–outdoor living. With a world-class spa, restaurant, and resort amenities, the market-making property is poised to become the go-to luxury destination for those seeking incomparable design and resort living in a rare beachfront setting. 10 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 Complementing the private elegance of the residences will be the beachfront public spaces, including an indoor–outdoor lounge and restaurant, a spa, swimming pools and gardens, all located at ground level to seamlessly connect the lifestyle to the beach and the community. The signature restaurant will be a lively American bistro concept with a raw bar and an exceptional wine program, a hallmark of Auberge Resorts, whose roots run deep in Napa Valley. Dining and lounging will take place poolside and on spacious decks for long evenings of communing with friends and family under the stars. With indoor– outdoor treatment rooms and a generously sized fitness center, the world-class Auberge Spa is poised to become the ultimate relaxation destination. 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 11 A PROGRESSIVE DINING EXPERIENCE Course-Hopping with Auberge Chefs in Napa Valley On Friday, March 27, three Auberge Resorts chefs in Napa Valley will present guests with a progressive dining experience: a tasting of their signatures dishes at each restaurant. This unique evening “dine-around” dinner starts with sparkling wine at Auberge du Soleil. From there, guests will be escorted to Archetype in St. Helena for a course grounded in contemporary American cuisine. Next up: Calistoga Ranch for another dish before heading back to Auberge du Soleil for the main course and dessert. This amazing opportunity celebrates not only the rich culture of food and wine in Napa Valley but also the diverse styles of each Auberge Resort chef. AUBERGE DU SOLEIL Rutherford CALISTOGA RANCH Calistoga ARCHETYPE St. Helena “The beauty of this event lies in the guests’ ability to experience three very different interpretations of our local seasonal cuisine, all drawing from the bounty of Napa Valley,” explains Executive Chef Robert Curry of Auberge du Soleil. Given his training in French techniques, Chef Curry will showcase wine-friendly cuisine that is an integral part of French cooking and a natural fit for Napa Valley. 12 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 At each property, the chef will speak after the course is served. At Archetype, Executive Chef Ryder Zetts is looking forward to letting guests know just how local his ingredients are, some harvested from his very own backyard, and educating them about his techniques in using the wood grill that is the cornerstone of his kitchen. The wines will originate from Napa Valley, including a few that are not available to the general public, as well as Auberge Resorts’ signature wine collection. “We are trying to encompass the whole thought and idea of food of place,” adds Calistoga Ranch Executive Chef Aaron Meneghelli. “It’s a great social platform for locals and visitors alike to see all of our properties and offers a completely different type of dining experience. And it’s a wonderful way for us chefs to collaborate as well.” To showcase Auberge Resorts’ exceptional relationships with the very best wineries, the wines will originate from Napa Valley, including a few that are not available to the general public, as well as Auberge Resorts’ signature wine collection. Just as the chefs will talk about techniques and ingredients of each dish, each property’s sommelier will address the nuances of the food and wine pairings. For information: 707.963.1211 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 13 WHEN THE STARS ALIGN Michelin-Starred Chefs Dinner Series First course, Auberge Resorts celebrates two “all star” culinary weekends, one at Auberge du Soleil in Napa Valley and the other at Malliouhana Resort in Anguilla. Executive Chef Robert Curry from Auberge du Soleil and Executive Chef Jeremy Bearman from Malliouhana will serve as the host chefs for these extraordinary weekends as renowned Michelin-starred chefs gather to demonstrate their talents for unforgettable epicurean experiences. main course, final course, and of course... DISCOVER THE WORLD OF NESPRESSO NESPRESSO.COM | 800.562.1465 The menu should be unique, sophisticated, and speak to a time and place. “I am very proud to be a Michelin chef and to have a team that has achieved this level of success,” says Executive Chef Robert Curry. “Being a Michelin chef is about being true to yourself, being the best you can be, and never taking this title for granted. When guests walk through our doors, I want them to know that they are receiving the correct preparation of the dish. Technique is important, but not overmanipulation of the food. Keep it natural. A Michelin chef should honor > 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 15 SEPTEMBER 2015 All-Star Weekend Napa Valley World-class chefs and sommeliers will prepare the best food and wine from local producers and growers, making this unique weekend something you really won’t want to miss. The Michelin-starred chefs craft courses that showcase their Michelin expertise and personal cooking style. MAY 2015 For information: 707.963.1211 Sea the Stars at Malliouhana West Coast meets East Coast meets the Caribbean. A collaborative quest with a series of clean food and cooking objectives. Each chef brings his talent, tools, and product from local sources to do a cooking series on how to discover clean, healthful food that is delicious, flavorful, and balanced. For information: 888.976.3436 A Michelin chef should honor the ingredients by using the freshest product and produce available. — Chef Robert Curry 16 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 the ingredients by using the freshest product and produce available. Our menu is produce driven and seasonal, and we are extremely fortunate to have the highest level of quality food and purveyors in our own backyard.” “Being the chef of a Michelin-starred restaurant in New York for the last five years was a great honor and achievement,” says Executive Chef Jeremy Bearman. “The bestowment of a star represented that our restaurant was offering a consistently high level of cuisine, and signified the hard work that me and my team put into our daily efforts to achieve excellence in our field. A Michelinstarred restaurant operates at a very high level in many respects: details concerning the quality of product it is using, use of proper cooking techniques, attention to presentation, flavors and textures of the food, and level of service and professionalism of the staff, to name a few. A Michelin-starred dinner should provide a truly exceptional experience for the guest. The menu should be unique, sophisticated, and speak to a time and place. The food should be prepared and executed with great precision, and the wine and beverage pairings should be chosen with great thought to the entire meal. The overall experience should not only be memorable but transcendent as well.” 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 17 JEREMY BEARMAN, EXECUTIVE CHEF, THE RESTAURANT AT MALLIOUHANA Keeping It Local with a Twist © 2013 Danone Waters of America, Inc. For more information, please call 1-800-443-3553 “I’ll let you into a little secret,” whispers Executive Chef Jeremy Bearman. “There is plenty of local produce grown right here on Anguilla. In fact, there’s a plethora of small farms that offer a really nice selection to choose from.” Chef Jeremy Bearman points to one he visits regularly, called Rainbow, which grows okra, tomatoes, basil mint, spinach, avocados, and papayas, among other fruits. That’s good news for Bearman, who until recently served as the executive chef of the five-time Michelin-starred Rouge Tomate in New York City as well as corporate chef of SPE Certified, where he was responsible for creating and executing menus with health and sustainability in mind. When he first got to Anguilla in August, the height of Carnivale, Bearman hit the ground running, familiarizing himself with island living. He made the rounds at the local hot spots to get an idea about traditional flavor profiles and dishes, and began to cultivate relationships with local farmers. Bearman had high hopes for the grounds at Malliouhana to be one of those providers— and was off to a healthy start with a small onsite garden that unfortunately didn’t make it through a hurricane that ripped through Anguilla a couple of weeks before the hotel’s opening in November. With the help of the resident head landscaper, his goal is to have an even larger plot carved out in no time at all. “We already have fruit trees on the property, a small amount of herbs like rosemary and thyme, and purslane that grows wild here.” And now he has a strong local network of farms that supply him with a steady stream of produce. He works with farmers that use clean farming techniques because the subtleties in his food is where his mastery shines: “The food I cook allows you to taste the nuances of each ingredient used, rather > [ba-dwah]: FRENCH FOR FINE BUBBLES 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 19 “Snapper, mahi, spiny lobster, crayfish, and tuna, to name a few, they are all pulled out of the water locally.” — Chef Jeremy Bearman than having them covered with heavy sauces or overly seasoned preparations.” He has challenged himself over the years to prepare food that is full of flavor, texture, and visual appeal, starting with the best ingredients possible. What he can’t source locally comes from other local islands like Dominica and the Dominican Republic, the mainland—and, of course, at times Europe. “We get goat and pork locally, but I get the bulk of my meats from the States,” he admits. He also depends on the U.S. for his dry goods. But when it comes to fish, it’s 90 percent local. “We have the best conch in the world right here in Anguilla,” Bearman says, grinning. 20 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 “Snapper, mahi, spiny lobster, crayfish, and tuna—they are pulled out of the water locally.” Daily? “It depends on the weather. When the water is calm, the fishermen fish; when it’s rough, they don’t.” Regardless, his phone constantly rings. “Most of the fishermen have their specialty as far as what they catch.” Good ingredients aside, how does a Michelin-starred chef from New York adapt his cooking skills to the needs of an island? “It’s about going somewhere and figuring it out by what product is available that we can use and put on the menu, understanding the culture as well as your clientele and what they are looking for, and then doing something that works for both, since you want to create a sense of place.” And that is exactly what Bearman does: traditional dishes with a refined twist. “One of the more classic dishes in Anguilla is a West Indian curried goat with rice and peas. It’s rustic and wildly popular, and so we built off those flavors and made our own curried goat sausage that is served with basmati rice and pigeon peas, along with a whipped banana and sweet potato puree with ginger jus. We basically took a lot of the traditional flavors and modernized the dish, and people love it.” Another example is his squid ink pasta dish. “All the flavors that go into this are those you would normally see down here. Local Scotch Bonnet peppers are pickled and served with corn, lobster, and a sea urchin butter. It’s our way of incorporating a bit of the flavor of the island in everything we do.” He points out a house-made ricotta dish featuring Guadalupe melon from Dominica. “This is an orange melon similar to a cantaloupe with stripes. It’s sold all over the streets in Anguilla and, when ripe, is not only sweet but has a really unique and interesting flavor.” He uses it in salad that is not so much a cultural dish as a celebration of local ingredients: “The melon, the mint salad—these ingredients are locally grown. That’s the other approach to the dishes.” While he adapts his dishes, Bearman has stayed true to himself and his cooking philosophy. “I love to work with classic yet authentic flavors and ingredients of an individual region and twist them into a more modern American preparation. This allows me to transport the diner to a specific place through flavor while not just giving them the common, classic preparation.” And as far as healthful eating, once again he has maintained a steady course, offering dishes that are rich in flavor but not heavy. “I believe the dynamic has changed for people going on vacation. Now they tend to continue to eat healthy even when they aren’t at home to maintain what they have worked so hard at. Besides, when it’s hot out, the last thing you want is a really heavy meal. We have lightened it up and it all kind of works together here. You are in an area where there is more product that is naturally light and healthy because you are in the tropics. In addition, we cook with minimal use of cream and butter in our savory items. The idea is for the guests to leave feeling good about what they just had.” For Information: 888.976.3436 malliouhana.aubergeresorts.com 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 21 AD The Dormir Collection Auberge Chefs Source Local SOMETIMES EVEN IN THEIR OWN BACKYARD Treat your hotel guests to indulgent comfort with the Stearns & Foster® Dormir Collection. This luxury firm euro pillowtop mattress is made by master craftsmen for Auberge Resorts locations, using the most exacting standards with the finest materials available. It’s a best-in-class luxury experience. Learn more about the Dormir Collection’s luxurious craftsmanship. 866.251.6471 | tempursealyhospitality.com 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 23 CALISTOGA RANCH Harvest Bounty From the Ranch Cultivating ingredients on property and purveyor relationships locally. MUSTARD MOVEMENT PRESERVING THE HARVEST Napa Valley in the springtime is a blur of fields filled with the golden blooms of mustard flowers. These flowers often are overlooked in many dishes, but Executive Chef Aaron Meneghelli sparked a renewed interest in this “condiment” last year with a special cooking demonstration that took guests through grinding and blending techniques to create their own mustard creations for enjoying and sharing at home. “It was a special event that sparked a lot of questions and really tied into the locality of things here in Napa Valley,” says Chef Meneghelli. “I even had guests return to Calistoga Ranch to share stories about the mustards they made at home.” The Mustard Movement will be held at the resort in March. This April, head to the gardens tucked behind the Calistoga Ranch estate vineyard and discover what the real buzz is all about! With a second hive added last year, Chef Meneghelli and his staff have stocked the garden with produce that benefits from honeybees. “Melons and squash each have a deep flower that really needs that bee in there to pollinate them,” he explains. And the proof is in the yield. While not everyone can have a beehive in his or her backyard, conversations about gardens in general seem to be a sticking point with many guests. “The garden was very important to me when I got here, and as a staff we have worked on becoming better planters. We have cover crops like fava beans that are rich in nutrients to help the soil recover. You have to think a full season ahead just to get soils ready for the plants, which in turn gets us thinking about what to do with those ingredients on the plate.” Guests will join Calistoga Ranch’s resident horticulturist for an in-depth talk on the organic garden and the resort’s sustainable efforts, discussing compost, soil health, biodiversity, and more. After learning to prepare your home garden for the bounty of summer, Chef Meneghelli will lead a class on preserving the harvest—from pickling to making delicious fruit preserves. “Not only are these great ways to touch our guests but also an obvious educational point for me too, from meeting new farmers to learning new gardening habits. And all of that ties into the locality of things, which is what food of place is really all about.” FARM TO TABLE “It’s important to me to have strong relationships with local farmers who share our same passion for a greener way of life,” explains Chef Meneghelli. “In many respects, the whole farm-totable concept is repetitive and expected in places such as this. So to create an interesting story about food of place, we want our guests to connect with the food through a hands-on experience by meeting the farmers, developing a real understanding for where their food comes from—from the soil on up—and asking important questions about organic farming and seasonal planting.” Turning the dining concept into a tangible platform, this May Calistoga Ranch invites you to learn about the importance of enhancing and sustaining the health of the land, plants, animals, and people for the sake of a true soil-totable dining experience. Taylor Boetticher, chef and owner of Napa’s Fatted Calf, will guide guests through the benefits of sustainably raised animals before leading a class on whole-animal butchery with a demonstration on how to break down a pig and form sausages from the meat. “Taylor makes amazing charcuterie and has solid relationships with animal farmers. We want to take it to the next level by teaching our guests about the advantages of learning to source products like meat carefully, which in turn goes back to why taking care of the land and the animal translates into a better product.” A rustic Napa family-style dinner will be served in the Calistoga Ranch estate vineyard to showcase the bounty of the local produce and meats. “The garden was very important to me when I got here, and as a staff we have worked on becoming better planters.” —Chef Aaron Meneghelli > 24 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 25 LOCAVORE EXPLORATION Join Executive Chef Aaron Meneghelli this June for a morning at the St. Helena Farmers Market to collect delicious, seasonal ingredients and then return to the kitchen to prepare a self-designed multicourse feast using the locally sourced produce. “We conducted this event last year, and it was a great success,” says Chef Meneghelli. “I introduced the couples I took to the market to several of the farmers, which ignited a great dialogue about seasonality that in turn led to questions about what to do in the kitchen based on their specific cooking needs. It was an interactive morning, and excursions like these really seem to grab our guests’ interest.” The intent is to have patrons leave not only with an experience that can be duplicated in their own region but also a heightened sense of intentional and healthy eating. From Market to Kitchen with Chef Meneghelli 26 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 CELEBRATING FALLING FRUITS YEAR-END OLIVE HARVEST DINNER With apples, pears, pomegranates, and persimmons abundant, join the culinary team at Calistoga Ranch this October to find out more about the fruits of fall. Learn how to make fresh-pressed cider from local apples to welcome the brisk autumn days. And what could be a better pairing than pie? The Lakehouse’s pastry chef will prepare a selection, and guests will take home cider and pie recipes to help recreate the memories. In December, enjoy Calistoga Ranch’s Fifth Annual Olive Harvest Party in the Wine Cave. An olive-curing demonstration will be followed by a delicious four-course dinner featuring olives throughout. “We got a pretty high yield of olives from our last harvest,” says Executive Chef Aaron Meneghelli. “I plan on showcasing a couple of different curing styles—a salt cure and a brine.” Guests will get jarred olives as a parting gift. For information: 866.627.1455 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 27 Archetype’s Home Farm Experience “One tip I use at home is to stagger my seed GREEN THUMB 101 germination so that my crops are not all Growing your own vegetables ready to harvest at the same time!” can be a rewarding experience, —Executive Chef Ryder Zetts especially when you notice that your produce tastes better that those you buy at the supermarket. But before you start buying seeds, plan your garden according to these very important considerations. LOCATION: What are the growing seasons and frost dates like where you live? SPACE: How much space do you have not just on the ground but also vertically for to plants to climb or grow upward, fast? SUNSHINE: How much of your garden is in the sun versus in the shade? PRODUCE CHOICE: Grow what you eat—so consider what you eat the most of! CHEF ZETTS GREEN TIP “Harvest the rain by collecting it in large containers in your garden and use it along with runoff water to efficiently irrigate your crops.” While Food of Place certainly reflects the local bounty of ingredients available, in the case of Archetype, that philosophy starts in the chef’s own backyard. Meet Archetype Executive Chef Ryder Zetts, who spends his time outside of the kitchen digging in the dirt. “I love to garden. Even as a kid, I always had a gardening manual sticking out of my back pocket. My mother was a big gardener and she instilled that in me and my brother at an early age.” Today, Chef Zetts continues to grow produce as a hobby and then cook it for a living. Incidentally, his brother, Nick, is head gardener at Mustards. Chef Zetts’ own backyard currently is filled with the winter season’s offerings: carrots, radishes, lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower, Swiss chard, and spinach. “We also have nine different fruit trees and an expansive herb garden.” Much 28 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 of what he harvests, along with eggs from his six hens, makes it into Archetype’s kitchen. “We usually feature an egg dish on the dinner menu to use the eggs I collect that morning.” Chef Zetts admits the farm-to-table concept is simply par for the course in a place like Napa Valley. And he should know: prior to Archetype, he spent six years at Michelinstarred Solbar in Calistoga and was the chef de partie at Bouchon Bistro in Yountville. “There is a lot of healthy competition in Napa Valley as far as raising the bar on what these restaurants do in respect to their own culinary gardens—or, as in my case, backyard garden.” To bring his guests as close as possible to the true Archetype dining experience, this spring Chef Zetts is inviting guests to start from the “roots” in his own backyard. “Today, people are intrigued by planting but also a little intimidated. I want this to be a great learning experience for our guests. I want to talk about the finer points of gardening, how we process these vegetables, and what cooking techniques we use. But at the end of the day, it’s about being interactive and starting a conversation.” You will get to meet his brother, whose wealth of garden knowledge is limitless. “It will be good to get the perspective of someone who has worked outdoors his whole life and is so connected with the seasons. A lot of people don’t have those types of experiences in their daily lives, so it’s exciting to be a part of that.” Guests will be invited to participate in the harvest. “And then I will centralize a meal at the restaurant around what they pick that day.” Chef Zetts is happy to realize his two passions combined in this special event. “It’s always good to know where your food comes from,” he adds, thoughtfully. Of course, at Archetype you can be assured that, at the very least, some ingredient on your plate was homegrown and plucked right out of his own backyard. FIVE EASY-TO-GROW CHOICES LETTUCE: In particular, leaf lettuce and romaine. TOMATOES: Especially if your garden gets full sun most of the day. CARROTS: Plant deeply in welldrained, loose soil. PEAS: Snow peas and snap peas grow easily but will require staking. RADISHES: Grows fast in almost any soil that has proper drainage. For information: 707.968.9200 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 29 HOTEL JEROME Rocky Mountain High Cuisine WILD GAME DINNER IN SEPTEMBER Featuring high-quality elk, Executive Chef Rob Zack’s Wild Game Dinner is filled with inspiration for those who hunt. “We wanted to hold a dinner to give ideas to hunters about what to do with their game,” says Chef Zack. September Dinner Series: FARMERS’ MARKET, VEGETARIAN STYLE A CHEF’S CLUB FOIE GRAS DINNER In March, Hotel Jerome will present an exciting evening to celebrate foie gras. “Foie gras is so versatile that it fits perfectly with the theme we have at Hotel Jerome for 2015—using what is available to us and getting creative,” explains Executive Chef Rob Zack. With a menu that is always changing, Chef Zack regularly showcases foie gras, most recently in a squab salad. “We will cure whole loaves and make a foie gras carpaccio.” He is also contemplating adapting a chicken dish he makes with matzo balls to instead feature foie gras balls. 30 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 As excited as he is about the menu, Chef Zack is thrilled about another component of the evening: the collaboration of local chefs to benefit a regional chapter of ProStart. ProStart is a nationwide, twoyear high school program that cultivates the next generation of restaurant stars in the classroom and through handson experiences, including culinary competitions. “Last year, I had a chance to judge who would make their competitive team and quickly realized these kids could use the funding.” In addition to two other local chefs who will each compose a course, an executive chef from Hudson Valley Foie Gras will be on hand to inform guests about the dinner. “Being in the Colorado mountains makes local produce a challenge considering the altitude and the dryness. Sure, we get some staples such as Swiss chard and kale all year-round, but September is really the only time when we get the bulk of it at its peak. And so we celebrate that with a nightly prix fixe dinner every day of the month, where vegetables are the stars on the plate. It really allows us to express our creativity in the kitchen with the true food of our place.” —Executive Chef Rob Zack For information: 855.220.6415 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 31 ESPERANZA PRONGHORN Organic Food Festival Craft On-the-Farm Dinner At Esperanza, Food of Place comes with an open invitation to share in the bounty available to all in the surrounding areas. To capture that sentiment, the resort will hold their first local organic market this December on the property, featuring the freshest seasonal goods of local fishermen, farmers, and wineries. “We invite our guests to visit all the vendors and food stands and place items they choose to purchase in a basket, which we will then use to prepare their very own customized dinner salad or entrée in front of them,” explains Executive Chef Gonzales Cerda. Farmers and staff will be on hand to offer explanations on any unfamiliar produce. “When I first got to Pronghorn, it was always my intention to find a bunch of different farmers to pull from. But as with most things, location determines both supply and demand, and I have come to realize that sometimes it is just as important to support a few small farmers and make them viable,” explains Executive Chef Kevin Linde. LOCAL INGREDIENT: JUNIPER Nestled among juniper woodlands, it’s hard for Pronghorn Executive Chef Kevin Linde to dismiss the ingredient. Native Americans use the tree, bark, and fruit for many purposes, and today the staff at Pronghorn likewise make good use of this food ingredient of place. “I try to feature juniper as much as possible,” explains Chef Linde. “I use it a lot in pickling, and right now I do a juniper-drip pancetta.” Although it’s challenging at times, he incorporates the plant into such desserts as a juniper salted caramel. “It’s pretty unique,” he says, grinning. In addition, the bar staff makes juniper-infused vodka and gin. Executive Chef Kevin Linde found Windflower Farm on his route home and soon discovered the diversity it had to offer, from produce to beautiful heritage pigs. “Owner Gigi Meyer is extremely passionate about what she does, and I am happy to support her farm.” Pronghorn’s Craft on-the-Farm dinner takes place this September at Windflower Farm, where Gigi will conduct a tour of the grounds before leading guests back to the farmhouse for a short presentation by the iconic Gary Fish of Deschutes Brewery. “Bend is known for its breweries, and this is one of the oldest that in turn has inspired offshoots,” says Chef Linde. A five-course dinner will be paired with Deschutes beers, culminating in Chef Linde speaking about his philosophy on food. “From an educational standpoint, we will hit three very important points: the farmer talking about what it takes in terms of labor intensity to produce quality food; the brewmaster on being local, and how that same intensity is replicated in the brewery; and what it means to me, as a chef, to be able to use quality ingredients in my cooking.” Chef Linde often uses beer as an ingredient in his food. “I use it for braising and currently have a beer-braised bison short rib on the menu. I have even done an aioli dipping sauce to which I have added straight beer to give it that extra flavor. As for desserts, I have made a stout pot de crème.” Chef Linde incorporates raw beer ingredients into the menu as well. “I use hops to pickle apples, and those apples are local too.” For information: 888.858.6379 32 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 33 A TASTE OF FIJI: Nanuku Food Safari Located in the adventure capital or “food bowl” of Fiji at Pacific Harbour on the main island of Viti Levu, Nanuku is pleased to be the latest addition to the Auberge Resorts family. With Australia’s leading chef, Jacques Reymond, mentoring their kitchen team, food is very much a focus at the resort. And with most of Fiji’s local produce farmed right in the area, this May Nanuku presents guests with a unique way to experience a true taste of the island: through a food safari. Here are some of the activities in which guests will participate. Visit a waterfall and stream and catch local prawns. Climb a coconut tree and make lolo (coconut milk). Then watch how the local Fijians cook the prawns in bamboo tubes using the coconut milk. Head to the Spice Farm of Fiji to learn how such spices as vanilla, cinnamon, and cardamom are cultivated and cured. Then select your own mud crab from the local Crab Farm. Explore the local market and taste organic seasonal produce. Learn how kava is grown, about its medicinal properties, and the ancient cultural traditions. Learn how to weave baskets, and help wrap food for the traditional Fiji lovo (in-ground oven). The grand finale includes a bonfire on the beach and a fire-walking demonstration. The art of imperfection Steelite International presents the Wabi Sabi collection, the latest design by Rene Ozorio. Combining his simplistic porcelain shapes with reactive ceramic glazes, Rene Ozorio has developed a pattern of unparalleled raw beauty. Embodying an imperfect style, no two pieces of these double-fired, hand-glazed items are alike, creating a natural canvas for food presentation. AVAILABLE: MARCH 2015 For information: 679.345.2100 nanuku.aubergeresorts.com For more information contact [email protected] 32steelite.com • 800-367-3493 • New York • Chicago • New Castle, PA 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 35 BARBECUE AUBERGE RESORTS TAKE DINING OUTDOORS WITH A SERIES OF BARBEQUES FROM POOLSIDE TO SEASIDE LOBSTER AND CHAMPAGNE AT ESPERANZA REOPENING In celebration of Esperanza’s reopening, join Executive Chef Gonzalo Cerda and his culinary team each Sunday afternoon in April as they cook Baja lobster— arguably the best in the country—in an earth oven on the Esperanza beach. The preparation includes making a hole in the sand and steaming the lobster in an envelope of banana leaves and herbs. “There is a lot of showmanship around taking the cooked lobster out of the pit,” says Chef Cerda. “Guests love the wow factor it creates.” The lobster will be paired with Champagne, and there will be live music around a firepit for a festive experience. 36 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 SMOKE GETS IN YOUR EYES: MEZCAL AND TRADITIONAL MEXICAN BARBACOA AT ESPERANZA IN JULY The original Mexican word for barbecue, barbacoa refers to meats slow-cooked over an open fire—or, even more traditionally, in a hole dug in the ground, as they do at Esperanza. “For this cooking demonstration, we cook lamb in an earth oven,” explains Chef Cerda. “First, guests accompany the culinary team to our organic garden, where we pick the herbs we need for the dish. From there, we walk down to the beach, make a hole in the sand, and cover it with maguey leaves.” The maguey is part of the agave family, the heart of the plant used to make mezcal. “The leaves along with the herbs flavor and tenderize the meat as it cooks.” After two to three hours, guests are invited back to watch the team take out and prepare the meat. “It’s a low-key dish that pairs well with a low key-beverage like mezcal,” says Chef Cerda. “The smoky flavors of each are a perfect complement.” PESCADO ZARANDEADO: FISH TACOS ON THE BEACH AT ESPERANZA Los Cabos is renowned for its local seafood, and Chef Cerda is proud of his relationships with local fishermen. “All my seafood vendors are small outfits who catch everything the same day in traditional fashion, no fancy industrial boats. And it’s all so different and amazingly fresh.” This November, guests can celebrate the fruits of the Pacific Ocean by learning how to prepare pescado zarandeado, a delectably seasoned roasted fish dipped in a tempura batter and served with warm, freshly made corn tortillas and lime to make the perfect fish taco. “We use red snapper for this dish,” explains Chef Cerda. “The guests get a chance to watch us make the dish and then enjoy it out on the beach.” For information: 877.526.5855 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 37 AUBERGE DU SOLEIL CALISTOGA RANCH Independence Day BBQ At the Pool What better way to celebrate Independence Day than with a poolside barbecue, great music, and friendly faces at the Calistoga Ranch? Join Executive Chef Aaron Meneghelli and his culinary team for some seasonal fare, overall fun in the sun, and even a grape stomp for the children! This year, Auberge du Soleil will kick off the summer in style with its annual series of Pool Parties on July 24th. Join Executive Chef Robert Curry as he grills a few of his summer favorites using the best of local and seasonal product with a focus on tomatoes, summer squash, and corn. Guests will also enjoy a selection of beverages poolside as Wine Director Kris Margerum pours from a collection of rosés to toast the warm weather, local brewery Mad Fritz serves its Blonde Ale, and Casamigos Tequila handcrafts refreshing, inventive cocktails. MALLIOUHANA Boat Races Anguilla’s Summer Festival Boat Races are held each year on the first Monday of August, right on the beach where Malliouhana is located. “The beach essentially becomes a huge party as locals and tourists—or landracers—cheer on their favorite boats,” explains Executive Chef Jeremy Bearman. Boat racing is a beloved sport of Anguillans and a tradition rooted in historical significance. The Restaurant at Malliouhana will celebrate in like fashion with a food festival and barbeque on the beach. For Information: 888.976.3436 malliouhana.aubergeresorts.com 38 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 39 “Our idea was to make the best-tasting, smoothest tequila around. So we did.” —George Clooney and Rande Gerber HOUSE OF FRIENDS Longtime friends George Clooney, Rande Gerber, and Mike Meldman love tequila. On the rocks, by the shot, at times straight from the bottle. Tequila-filled nights with friends is how Casamigos was born. Rande Gerber answers a few of our questions. How was Casamigos created? Our idea was to make the best-tasting, smoothest tequila whose taste didn’t have to be covered up with salt or lime. So we did. The tequila was made just for us. We worked on the creation of Casamigos with our master distiller in Jalisco, Mexico, for years, and held many blind tastings until we knew we got it right. We’ve been drinking our tequila with friends and family for over five years now. It was never intended to be released to the public. It’s all we serve at our homes in Mexico, so it’s literally our house tequila. We are delighted that consumers and tequila connoisseurs alike enjoy our award-winning spirit. How did you come up with the name Casamigos? It’s named after our homes in Mexico called Casamigos, which loosely translates to “House of Friends” 40 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 How many different types of Casamigos Tequila are currently available? Casamigos is currently available in Blanco, Reposado, and Añejo. Our Blanco rests for two months. Our Reposado and Añejo are aged seven and 14 months, respectively, in the finest American oak barrels that have been carefully reconditioned after being used to age ultra-premium whiskey. What sets Casamigos Tequila apart from other tequilas? These small-batch, ultra-premium tequilas are made from the finest hand-selected 100 percent Weber Blue agaves, grown in the rich red clay soil and cool climate of Mexico’s Jalisco Highlands for a minimum of seven years. Our agave piñas are roasted in traditional brick ovens for 72 hours, while most others steam theirs for seven. Our master distiller uses a special yeast blend resulting in a consistent refined flavor unlike the commercial yeast others use. Our unique flavor is a result of an 80-hour fermentation process, compared to the average 48. Our refined process ensures a smooth mouthfeel with no unnecessary additives and no glutens. Casamigos is brought to you by those who drink it. We own it, we drink it, it is a part of our lifestyle. AUBERGE MARGARITA 1 1/2 oz. Casamigos Blanco Tequila 1 oz. fresh lime juice 1/4¼ oz. fresh orange juice 1/2 oz. agave nectar METHOD: Shake ingredients with ice then strain and serve on the rocks. Garnish with a lime wedge. 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 41 CHEERS! From Sparkling to Spirits NAPA VALLEY SPARKLES HOTEL JEROME SOMM OFF “We’ve put a liquid spin on Food of Place by showcasing the program on an entirely different platform with the help of local sommeliers,” explains Executive Chef Rob Zack. The Somm Off takes place monthly in the summertime, and often in the winter as well. The premise is simple: five courses of small plates, usually themed, with wine pairings selected by Hotel Jerome Sommelier Cristel Stiver and a rival from an area restaurant or hotel. The guests judge which sommelier’s pairing goes best with each dish. “The Somm Off was a huge draw last year, with many repeat customers,” explains Food and Beverage Manager 42 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 Adam Cohen. “We are fortunate to have a tight-knit community of restaurant professionals, so these nights are a lot of fun.” Throughout the evening, the sommeliers and chef talk about each course and critique their wine choices. “Guests get to fill out a scoring card and talk to one another as they taste. It’s very communal.” Chef Zack agrees: “It’s a lot of fun, a competition where everyone is laughing. From a social aspect, it really works.” Among communal tables, each sommelier talks about his or her wine pick before the course is served and approaches each table as the tasting is in progress. “There is definitely an educational component, but it’s not serious,” explains Chef Zack. “The beauty of this event is that it demystifies the sommelier’s role and breaks down that barrier between the guests and the wine.” Executive Sous-Chef Jason Niederkorn is in charge of executing a special menu for each of these events, and the sommeliers are given a heads-up on the dishes a couple of weeks in advance to prepare their pairings. “We started this last year, and it was met with resounding success,” adds Chef Zack. “It has a lot of potential to grow in some very different directions.” For information: 855.220.6415 at Auberge Du Soleil Food can bring out the best in a wine with the right pairing... Before taking the helm at Auberge du Soleil, Executive Chef Robert Curry learned his way around sparkling wines as executive chef for 10 years at Champagne house Domaine Chandon. And now, as Napa Valley produces some of the finest sparkling wines in the world, Curry is ready to share his expertise with guests. On May 28th, join Auberge du Soleil for a Sparkling Napa Valley evening of sparkling wines paired with fresh, seasonal cuisine at a walk-around tasting. This is an exceptional chance for guests to experience wine from multiple producers side by side with specially prepared pairings focused on such flavor profiles as cured products (bacon and olives), fermented products (soy sauce), and anything fried and salted (French fries and fried oysters.) “Working at Domaine Chandon with winemaker Dawnine Dyer was invaluable. I wouldn’t trade the insight I got for the world! It is where I really learned how food can bring out the best in a wine with the right pairing,” explains Chef Curry. “With so many wineries in Napa Valley starting to produce small batches of sparkling wine, there is a lot to look forward to in this area.” For information: 707.963.1211 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 43 ROEDERER ESTATE Sparkling in California Founded in 1982, Roederer Estate is nestled in the cool, fog-shrouded Anderson Valley. As the California outpost of Champagne Louis Roederer, Roederer Estate winery builds on a centuries-old tradition of fine winemaking and is the gold standard of California sparkling wines. Roederer Estate’s sparkling wines are produced using only estate-grown grapes from the winery’s own vineyards and special oak-aged reserve wines are added to each blend. The multi-vintage Roederer Estate Brut debuted in 1988 to great acclaim, followed by the Brut Rosé and Roederer Estate’s tête de cuvée, L’Ermitage. The Anderson Valley offers the cool climate and well-drained soils that are ideally suited to the Roederer winemaking style. This premium grape-growing region’s proximity to the ocean gives rise to a gentle cycle of warm days and cool nights, allowing grapes to mature slowly on the vine and develop full varietal character. Among the very few California sparkling wine houses that only sources estate-grown fruit, Roederer Estate is meticulous about all its farming and winemaking decisions. The winemaking process begins with in-depth knowledge of the Roederer Estate soils to introduce the open lyre trellis system or high-density plantation, extends to the decision to farm vineyards organically and biodynamically, and finishes by painstakingly tracking grape maturity to achieve perfect balance at harvest. The quality is also attributed to the addition of reserve wines, which are selected from the best wines each year and aged in French oak casks. Wines from this special reserve cellar are added to each blend, creating a cuvée, known for its body, finesse, and depth of flavor. Winemaker Arnaud Weyrich at Roederer Estate makes four sparkling wines: BRUT MULTI VINTAGE 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir Aged a minimum of two years on the yeast. BRUT ROSÉ MULTI VINTAGE 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay Aged a minimum of two years on the yeast. 44 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 L’ERMITAGE VINTAGE BRUT Roederer Estate’s Tête de Cuvée, made only in exceptional years from preselected, estate-grown grapes. 2006 blend: 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir (4% of which is aged reserve wine from vintage 2003) L’ERMITAGE VINTAGE BRUT ROSÉ Roederer Estate’s Tête de Cuvée, made only in exceptional years from preselected, estate-grown grapes. 2006 blend: 49.8% Chardonnay, 50.2% Pinot Noir (of which 3.9% is aged reserve wine from 2003) 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 45 LOCAL WINE BASICS: Wine Academy at Calistoga Ranch Executive Chef Aaron Meneghelli’s interest in wine started at an early age: most of his family works in the wine business in Napa Valley. “I take pride in this being my hometown. I want to fill in the wine picture for our guests with this event and talk about each Napa Valley appellation and what makes them so unique,” he says. Novice and wine expert alike are invited to join wine educator and sommelier Christian Oggenfuss at Calistoga Ranch this February to discover the world-class winegrowing region. “Only 4 to 5 percent of California’s wines come from Napa Valley, and yet look at the tremendous impact such a small area has on the wine industry,” Chef Meneghelli explains. “It has to do with the diversity of the soils, the microclimates, and generally the level of emphasis that people put on the vines depending on the district they are in. Cabernet sauvignon might grow all over Napa Valley, but from Oakville to Stag’s Leap it can taste very different.” Guests will get a chance to taste their way around the valley during the day at a select handful of exclusive wineries before returning to Calistoga Ranch for their choice of a grapeseed scrub at the Spa or further wine education with a private blending seminar. The wine-filled day ends with dinner at The Lakehouse, featuring a wine-paired menu. “Let’s take an in-depth look at Napa Valley, break it down, and have some fun at the same time!” ESPERANZA GETS ARTSY: Art and Wine Mondays “We have quite a network of artists at and around Esperanza,” explains Executive Chef Gonzalo Cerda. “We thought it would be a lot of fun to showcase their work along with our food and wines.” From the artists who work in the galleries in San Jose to the painters and sculptors who worked at the resort during its recent renovations, a collection from these local craftsmen will be on display in the Esperanza garden each Monday in May. Enjoy the artwork while sipping a glass of Esperanza-labeled wine and signature hors d’oeuvres. “We have several of our own wines: a Viñedos Azteca called Pretexto as well as blends from Roganto Winery and Adobe de Guadalupe Winery.” Aguachiles and Artisan Baja Beer AT ESPERANZA OKTOBERFEST In celebration of Oktoberfest, Calistoga Ranch is partnering with Austin, Texas-based Chef Andrew Wiseheart of Contigo and Gardner to focus on fermentation. This September, learn about the process of beer making from a local brewer, with sauerkraut and fermented bread dough a wonderful complement. Join Calistoga Ranch Executive Chef Aaron Meneghelli and Chef Wiseheart to make pretzels, sausages, and mustard that will serve as the basis for an Oktoberfest dinner paired with locally crafted beer. 46 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 This June, Esperanza’s culinary team will inspire guests with the refreshing, surprisingly versatile Mexican appetizer ceviche paired with the best of Baja beer. “Ceviches are well known all throughout Latin and Central America, and each country has a specific traditional preparation,” explains Executive Chef Gonzales Cerda. “Here in Baja we serve a chile-spiked Mexican ceviche as it’s the only place you can get these certain chilies just the way we like them.” Thin slices of shrimp or fish are marinated in lemon juice and jalapeños with onion and cucumber. “It’s kind of like a gazpacho, cured with lemon and herbs.” But just how hot can the dish get? “It depends on the guest,” Chef Cerda says, laughing. “Some people tend to get pretty adventurous on vacation and ask for very spicy versions, and we are happy to accommodate them!” The aguachiles are paired with thirst-quenching beers from two favorite Baja breweries: Baja Brewing Company and Ramuri Cabo San Lucas. ICE AND FIRE: WHISKEY AND CIGAR EXPERIENCE AT PRONGHORN It may surprise some that whiskey’s complexity lends itself to pairings with a variety of dishes and ingredients. In March, Pronghorn will hold a five-course meal featuring whiskey cocktails, food that pairs well with whiskey, and samples of straight whiskey. The menu is a collaboration between Executive Chef Kevin Linde of Pronghorn and Chef Matt Neltner of Sunset Soirée. “When writing this menu, I took into account ‘what grows together goes together’ by sourcing whiskey and ingredients that are grown in the same area,” explains Chef Linde. “This helps to tell a story to our guests and makes for a quality, natural pairing.” SPIRITS When he works with whiskey in the kitchen, Chef Linde incorporates it into dishes that best show it off. “Its high alcohol content works well in desserts for flambé or added to a sweet sauce to give it more flavor and complexity. But cook out the alcohol first, or it could give your sauce an odd flavor. Also, always taste the whiskey as alcohol changes the flavor of what you are cooking and then changes again as the alcohol cooks out over time.” Like the grapes used to make wine, each whiskey possesses distinctive tastes that complement food. Use caution, however, when pairing it with hot and spicy foods. “The high alcohol content of the whiskey combined with the heat of the food will make the food seem even spicier,” explains Chef Linde. “If I am using whiskey with some smokiness to it, I will lean toward pairing a grilled or charred piece of protein with it. This combination tends to tame the smoky flavor of the whiskey and bring out other background flavors: natural fruity or floral notes.” He recommends using a protein with a higher fat content if the whiskey is aged 8 to 10 years. “Because older whiskeys have higher tannins, they cut through the fat of the protein and work as a palate cleanser.” At the end of the evening, attendees will be treated to a cigar and whiskey pairing out on the restaurant’s heated deck. A portion of the proceeds will benefit the Returning Veterans Project. HOTEL JEROME: WHERE SPIRITS TAKE FLIGHT AT THE LIVING ROOM Every other month throughout the year, The Living Room at Hotel Jerome conducts a spirit flight and tasting. “The featured spirit changes with each event,” explains Food and Beverage Manager Adam Cohen. And so does the pairing element. The tequila flight will be presented with three unique salts, along with a short educational explanation of each salt’s specific attributes by the servers. For other spirits, such as the Scotch flight, food items will accompany the beverages to best highlight its flavor profile. SIPPING TO KEEP WARM: WINTER MIXOLOGY CLASS AT CALISTOGA RANCH Summer has its herbal mojitos and refreshing margaritas, but what do you serve when the temperatures drop? This winter, Calistoga Ranch’s expert mixologist will show you how to mix drinks, learn proper bartending formulas, and imbibe with the basics of some particularly cozy, winter ingredients. Learn to highlight unique spirits with a focus on warming cocktails. Of course, no mixology class is complete without some sampling! 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 47 DESTINY IN A BOTTLE Looking down from Dragon’s Hill, with sweeping views of the Quintessa Estate, cradled among volcanic hills and adorned by a lake, it’s easy to feel that same pull of destiny Agustin and Valeria Huneeus grasped when they first discovered this piece of land in the heart of Napa Valley in 1989. At that time, it had never been planted with grapevines, and so from the very beginning, the couple treated the land with upmost respect—applying biodynamic and organic farming techniques to encourage the soil’s health and vitality. Every decision was guided by their original vision to farm vines in a way that would let the purity and spirit of the land be known. Since its inception, Quintessa has produced a singular wine each year to reflect this rare and special place. The Huneeuses have always desired to share their soulful bond to the land with others, and so today guests are invited up to a private pavilion on Dragon’s Hill for an unparalleled wine experience. To begin, you are welcomed by a private host with a refreshing glass of 48 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 Illumination, Quintessa’s limited production Sauvignon Blanc, as you learn about the property and the Huneeuses’ journey to create one of the great wine estates in the world. With the rare opportunity to taste barrel samples selected from distinctive vineyard blocks, you will discover just how diverse and rich the landscape at Quintessa is, with its numerous soil types, microclimates, and various elevations and sun exposures. It was that diversity that convinced the owners of Quintessa’s potential. Today, the estate is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere grapes—varietals that are artfully blended into one estate wine each year. The tasting experience continues with the current vintage of Quintessa followed by a rare library vintage—wines of elegance and finesse that express the beauty and uniqueness of the property. Local artisanal cheeses allow you to taste the nuances and flavors that come when great wine is accompanied by great food. Quintessa is truly an example of how fine wine is a reflection of place, and through this unique tasting experience, you too will recognize that original spark of devotion and commitment to this incredible property. This experience is approximately 90 minutes and available by appointment. Quintessa is located 0.6 miles from Auberge Du Soleil at 1601 Silverado Trail South, St. Helena, CA. Quintessa.com • Tel. 707.286.2730 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 49 TRADITIONS FESTIVAL TRENTINO AT CALISTOGA RANCH TRADITIONAL BEST: CHILES EN NOGADA AT ESPERANZA ESPERANZA’S PUMPKIN-CARVING CONTEST “Where my family comes from in Northern Italy, there is always a festival happening for some saint or religious person, dating back to medieval times,” explains Executive Chef Aaron Meneghelli. “And with food a big part of each celebration, I wanted to share that part of my heritage with our guests.” “Many of our guests know about Mexico but not really about the food,” says Executive Chef Gonzales Cerda. “They might be familiar with tequila and Tex-Mex, but that’s usually the extent of it. However, there are always questions, so I know the interest is there.” Given that food is such a big part of Mexican culture, Esperanza feeds its guests with information about traditional dishes and cooking demonstrations such chiles en nogada, a Poblano chili filled with shredded meat, aromatics, fruits, and spices and topped with a walnut– pomegranate sauce. Nogada comes from the Spanish word nogal for the walnut tree. Guests of all ages can get into the spirit of fall this November at Esperanza with a pumpkin-carving contest. The best part? Pick up some creative carving and design techniques from the culinary team during all the festivities. Partnering with Chef Thomas McNaughton of San Francisco’s Flour + Water, Central Kitchen, and Salumeria, this November Chef Meneghelli will prepare traditional fare that is often considered rustic, yet elevated to a more refined level. Experience bagna càuda or “hot dip,” an Italian-style fondue described as both communal and seasonal as it “involves using whatever is coming out of the garden at that time.” Chef Meneghelli’s grandfather will share stories of Northern Italy while an Italian polka band sets the tone for the evening. The chefs will give a cooking class and demo on making pasta, vinegar, and polenta, culminating in a multicourse dinner focused on Italian flavors and techniques paired with Napa and Italian wines. 50 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 “We hold this event in September because it is the month of our independence,” explains Chef Cerda. “This is a really old dish that symbolizes the Mexican flag by its colors: the green chile, the white nut sauce, and the red pomegranates. It’s traditional gourmet Mexican cuisine at its best!” THE JEROME TURKEY TO GO No time to cook the Thanksgiving meal? This year, let the kitchen at The Jerome do the heavy lifting, leaving you to focus on the social aspects of the holidays. Dinner for four comes with soup, sides, stuffing, turkey, and dessert. RECIPES FROM OUR CHEFS 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 51 MALLIOUHANA EXECUTIVE CHEF JEREMY BEARMAN Tomato and Watermelon Panzanella PRONGHORN EXECUTIVE CHEF KEVIN LINDE AUBERGE DU SOLIEL EXECUTIVE CHEF ROBERT CURRY Pistachio-Crusted Lamb Lollipops Steamed Manila Clams, Glazed Pork Belly, Lime, Thai Basil Serves 6 to 9 depending on the size of the rack of lamb Serves 4 Serves 4 INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS FOR THE PORK BELLY 3 large tomatoes cut in 1-inch pieces 1 rack of Imperial Stock Ranch Lamb Rack (ask your butcher to French cut it) 1 1/4 pounds fresh pork belly Salt and pepper for seasoning 1/2 tsp whole clove 3 cups watermelon cut in 1-inch pieces 2 cups cucumber cut in 1-inch pieces 1 cup panko (or gluten-free bread crumbs made from potato) 1 cup red onion, sliced 1 cup shelled pistachios, toasted 1/4 cup olive oil 1 tsp granulated garlic 3 tbs sherry vinegar Salt and pepper to taste 1 tbs piment d’espelette (espelette pepper) 4 thick slices of sourdough bread, grilled or toasted with olive oil Zest of 2 lemons 2 tbs fresh mint, chiffonade 2 handfuls baby arugula 3 tsp kosher salt 10 basil leaves, torn in pieces 1 cup all-purpose flour (or glutenfree rice flour) 1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled 1/2 cup black olives, halved 2 tsp black pepper METHOD 1 cup buttermilk Mix the tomatoes, watermelon, cucumber, red onion, olive oil, sherry vinegar, and salt and pepper gently in a bowl. Allow to sit for about 2 minutes so that the vegetables begin to release some of their juices. Cut the grilled sourdough into bite-size pieces and add them to the salad. They will begin to soak up some of the juices. Add the arugula and basil, then toss to combine. Check the seasoning. Place in a large bowl and garnish with the feta cheese and olives. You can also top with a couple small basil leaves. 2015 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon Salt to taste 1 garlic head, halved 1/2 carrot, peeled and sliced 1/2 onion, peeled and medium dice 1/2 fennel bulb, medium dice 1/2 leek, medium dice 1/2 bunch thyme, tied with butchers twine 1 bay leaf 375 ml dry white wine 1 1/2 quarts chicken stock 1 tbs grapeseed oil METHOD Clean the rack of lamb using a boning knife. Start by removing the fat and all silverskin. If you desire a stronger lamb flavor, leave more of the lamb fat on the rack. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Set aside. Combine the panko and pistachios in a food processor. Pulse about 5 times to break them up to the desired size for crusting the lamb. Place mixture in a bowl and add the garlic, espelette, lemon zest, mint, and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt. Set aside. Bread the lamb by starting with the flour mixture. Dredge the rack • 1/2 tsp fennel seed 1/4 cup canola oil Whisk together eggs and buttermilk in a bowl. FOOD OF PLACE 1 whole star anise 3 large eggs Combine flour, 2 teaspoons of salt, and black pepper in a pan. Set aside. 52 1/2 tsp whole black pepper FOR THE PORK BELLY GLAZE 4 tbs brown sugar 1/4 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup mirin front and back with flour, then dip the rack by holding the bones into the egg and buttermilk mixture. Make sure the lamb is completely coated with the egg mixture. Place the lamb in the pistachio breading mixture and gently cover the entire rack with the mixture using your hands. Pack it down by applying gentle pressure. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place a cast iron skillet on the stove and turn to high heat. Add canola oil. When ribbons appear in the oil, turn down to medium high. Add lamb to the pan and let it sit until you see brown forming where the lamb meets the oil. Turn over once and make the other side golden brown as well. Remove from pan and place on a paper towel. Place lamb in oven for 10 to 15 minutes. When a metal stem thermometer reaches 120°F in the center of the lamb, remove from oven and let rest for 3 to 5 minutes. Cut the rack between the bones to create lollipops. Enjoy with a great craft beer! Season the pork liberally with salt. Rub the pork with the ground spice mix. FOR THE CLAMS METHOD 2 tbs ginger, peeled and minced Heat a medium sauce pot and add the pork, fat-side down. Sear the pork well on all sides and remove from the pot. 2 tbs shallots, peeled and minced In a large pot over low heat, sweat the ginger, garlic, and shallots in the grapeseed oil. Add the clams, wine, chili sauce, fish sauce, and lime juice. Cover with a lid, turn up the heat, and steam open the clams. Divide the clams among 4 warm bowls. 1 tbs garlic, peeled and minced 2 tbs grapeseed oil 6 pounds Manila clams Add the garlic, carrot, onion, fennel, leek, thyme, and bay leaf. Cook slowly until vegetables are tender. 1 cup dry white wine Add the wine and reduce by half. Add the pork belly and chicken stock. Bring to a simmer and cover with a lid. Place in the oven for 2 hours. 1/2 cup lime juice Remove from the oven and remove the pork from the liquid. Place the pork between two sheet pans and place something heavy on top to weigh it down. Refrigerate at least 6 hours. 2 tbs sweet chili sauce 2 tbs Thai fish sauce 2 oz butter 24 Thai basil leaves, chiffonade 4 green onions, sliced Whisk the butter into the cooking liquid from the clams. Ladle the liquid over the clams. Place the glazed pork belly on top of the clams. Garnish with the basil and green onions. Once the pork is thoroughly chilled and pressed, portion into at least 12 large diced pieces. Reserve. To finish the pork, heat a sauté pan. Add the grapeseed oil and the pork belly and sear on all sides. Remove excess fat from the pan and add the ingredients for the glaze. Reduce just until the pork is glazed. METHOD (This can be done a day in advance.) Preheat oven to 300°F. If the pork has the skin still attached, remove and discard. Score the fat on the skin side of the belly with a knife. Grind together the black pepper, star anise, clove, fennel seed, and cinnamon. In a small sauté pan, toast the spices over low heat for about 1 minute and remove from the pan. 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 53 CALISTOGA RANCH EXECUTIVE CHEF AARON MENEGHELLI Winter Garden Salad poached prawns, broccoli romanesco, tiny turnips, purple cauliflower, scallion, and butternut squash purée Serves 4 MIREPOIX POACHING LIQUID BUTTERNUT SQUASH PURÉE 1 whole stock of celery 1 gallon water 1 yellow onion, sliced thin 4 onions 1 cup salt 1 tsp salt 2 large carrots 1/2 bottle white wine 1/4 pound butter 3 tbs olive oil BLANCHING VEGETABLES 1 sweet Fuji apple, peeled and sliced 1 bottle white wine 1 head romanesco, cut into florets 1 gallon water 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets 1 large butternut squash, peeled and diced 8 prawns 1 head purple cauliflower, cut into florets Salt and pepper to taste Spread a tablespoon of squash purée on one side of your plate; this will be the area where you arrange the salad. METHOD Arrange the vegetables and prawns to your liking. 1 cup salt 3 bay leaves 2 lemons, halved and juiced Poached prawns 6 Thumbelina carrots (or baby carrots), peeled and quartered 6 baby turnips, peeled and quartered TO MAKE COURT BOUILLON: Sweat mirepoix with the cup of salt and olive oil into a covered stock pot that is large enough to hold 6 quarts of liquid and cook until transparent. Starting with medium heat to ensure that you do not achieve any color in the process. Add wine, bay leaves, and lemons to mirepoix, and reduce by half. Add water and bring to a boil. Liquid should be very acidic and have a strong salt content. Poach prawns in lightly simmering court bouillon for 2 minutes. Reserve court bouillon for vegetables. NOTE: Have prawns poaching in liquid while you are plating the vegetables to allow them to be cooked and warm for the plate. 12 scallions, trimmed at roots and from the top and split down middle Tub ice water Sea salt to taste Extra-virgin olive oil to taste Reserved court bouillon from poached prawns METHOD Bring poaching liquid to a boil and blanch vegetables separately until they are just tender and still hold a little crunch, then shock in ice water. The extra acidic and salty poaching water will help retain color and give flavor; the ice will also help with color and even out the salt and flavor. Once all iced, dry the vegetables by letting them sit on towels. Add vegetables into a mixing bowl and season with sea salt, extra-virgin olive oil, and a small amount of the court bouillon from the prawns. Adjust seasoning to your liking, adding more of the poaching liquid if more acid is desired. Water Sweat onion with salt and butter in a covered pot until totally soft and transparent. Add apple and cook until soft. Add butternut squash. Add enough water to cover halfway up the squash and cook on low to medium heat with the lid on until squash is completely soft. Remove ingredients and puree smooth. Let cool completely and check seasoning. TO ASSEMBLE For garnish, add a mix of herb leaves, including parsley, tarragon, chervil, and chives. To finish plate, add a drizzle of citrus oil, such as lemon or orange, and a little coarse sea salt and serve. HOTEL JEROME EXECUTIVE CHEF ROB ZACK Duck Chili Serves 6 INGREDIENTS One #16 can of tomato puree, 1 tsp duck fat 1 chipotle, minced 1/4 cup bacon, small dice 1/4 cup currants 2 pounds ground duck 1 quart chicken or duck stock 1/2 cup poblano chilis, small dice One 12-oz pilsner beer 1/2 cup red pepper, small dice 1 tbs lime juice 2 cups yellow onion, small dice 1 tbs Worcestershire sauce METHOD 2 tbs garlic, minced 1/4 cup bittersweet chocolate In a large soup pot on medium heat, add the duck fat and bacon. Render the bacon until crisp. Add the ground duck and cook, stirring often, until brown. Remove and drain the meat, discarding the fat. 1 tbs jalapeño, minced 2 tbs chili powder MASA SLURRY 1 tbs cumin 1/4 cup masa 1 tbs coriander 1/2 cup water 1 tsp madras curry powder 1 tbs smoked Spanish paprika SACHET 1 tsp oregano 1 cinnamon stick 1/2 cup sliced almonds, ground to a powder 1 clove 1 tbs salt 1 thyme sprig 1 tsp pepper 1/4 cup tomato paste 3/4 cup red wine 54 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 1 bay leaf 1 strip orange peel 1 whole star anise 2 all spice Add the poblano, red pepper, yellow onion, jalapeño, and garlic to the now empty pan. Stir to combine and cook until vegetables are soft and slightly caramelized. Return the duck to the pan and add the chili powder, cumin, coriander, curry, paprika, oregano, almonds, salt, and pepper. Cook for 1 minute and add the tomato paste. Cook for 5 minutes and deglaze with the red wine. Reduce the wine by half and add the tomato puree, chipotles, currants, chicken or duck stock, beer, and sachet. Turn to a simmer and cook for 1 1/2 hours, stirring often. Add the masa slurry and cook for an additional 15 minutes. Add the lime juice, Worcestershire, and chocolate. Stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary. Garnish with crema fresca, cheddar cheese, green onion, and cilantro. Toasted corn bread is great for dipping. 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 55 ARCHETYPE EXECUTIVE CHEF RYDER ZETTS ESPERANZA EXECUTIVE CHEF GONZALO CERDA Yields 4 pounds Makes 12 churros INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS 3 pounds kumquats, stems removed, halved crosswise 1/2 cup water Preserved Kumquats Mexican Churros METHOD Boil water with milk, sugar, salt, and butter. 1/2 cup milk 3 cups cold water 0.35 oz sugar 3 cups Champagne vinegar 0.07 oz salt 1 cup sugar 2.65 oz butter 1 tsp salt 5.29 oz flour 1 1/2 eggs HERB SACHET Oil for frying 1 tsp fennel seed Sugar to taste 10 bay leaves Cinnamon to taste 8 arbol chiles 2 tsp coriander seed 1 tsp peppercorns JUST DESSERTS Once boiled, add flour and mix vigorously until everything is mixed well. Remove and place in mixer, add eggs one by one, and mix slowly. Place oil in a pan to fry churros. Place the dough in a pastry sleeve with a star nozzle, and pipe 4-inch churros into the pan. Once brown and crispy, place churros in a bowl with sugar and cinnamon. BEAT THE HEAT WITH ESPERANZA’S CHURROS ICE CREAM Combat the August rays with this cool dessert: churros ice cream. “It’s an original concept,” says Executive Chef Gonzales Cerda, who points out there was a little trial and error along the way. “Churros are very popular in the United States right now, and so we wanted to build upon that approachability. We went the way of ice cream sandwiches at first, but creating an ice cream instead was way better. It combines sweet, soft, and crunchy textures and flavors.” Guests will learn how to first make the churros and then take them to the next level by crafting them into a soft and creamy ice cream. CALISTOGA RANCH: ALL THINGS CHOCOLATE METHOD Place the kumquats in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil on the stovetop and strain. Repeat this process two more times. Add the 3 cups of cold water, vinegar, sugar, salt, and herb sachet to the pot with the kumquats. Bring to a boil. Turn down to a simmer and gently cook until just tender. Cool. “Pair with chicories and a crushed avocado bruschetta. They also work great with roast duck, pork, or even oily fish such as mackerel or sardines.”—Chef Zetts “Who doesn’t love chocolate?” says Executive Chef Aaron Meneghelli, laughing. “But do you know the difference between dark and bittersweet as an ingredient?” Certainly cooking with it can be challenging. “Most people don’t know how to temper chocolate to make something as simple as a glaze for a cake, and so this event is user friendly and geared to the home cook to highlight some ways in which you can step into a higher level of confectionary ‘wow’ and still keep it simple.” Join Calistoga Ranch’s pastry chef this August in a guided class to learn about the origins of the cocoa bean and its conversion into chocolate, how to use chocolate in the kitchen, and how to delight friends and relations with simple chocolate creations. Learn how to make chocolate, use chocolate molds, and create professional chocolate recipes with tips and extra insight to take home. HOTEL JEROME COOKIE DECORATING CLASS The annual cookie decorating class has grown into quite the tradition at Hotel Jerome, attracting more than 400 families this past December. “Executive Pastry Chef Tamara Ferro makes cookie kits complete with icing and sprinkles,” explains Executive Chef Rob Zack. With staff strategically placed around the room to help out, the class has evolved into a local community event. 56 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 2015 • FOOD OF PLACE 57 Calendar FEBRUARY JUNE Hotel Jerome Somm Off Calistoga Ranch Napa Wine Academy MARCH Pronghorn Ice and Fire Whiskey and Cigar Experience March 14 OCTOBER Hotel Jerome Somm Off Hotel Jerome Spirits Flight Calistoga Ranch Locavore Exploration Calistoga Ranch Falling Fruits Esperanza Aguachiles and Artisan Baja Beer Esperanza Pescado Zarandeado JULY NOVEMBER Hotel Jerome Somm Off Hotel Jerome Turkey to Go Archetype, Auberge du Soleil, Calistoga Ranch Napa Valley Dine-Around March 27th Auberge du Soleil Sweet and Salty Late-Night Menu Hotel Jerome Chef’s Club Foie Gras Dinner First Annual Pool Party July 24th Calistoga Ranch Spirits Flight Calistoga Ranch Festival Trentino Somm Off Independence Day BBQ Mustard Movement Mezcal and Traditional Mexican Barbacoa Esperanza Calistoga Ranch Esperanza Pumpkin-Carving Contest APRIL Calistoga Ranch Preserving the Harvest Esperanza Lobster and Champagne MAY Archetype Home Farm Experience Malliouhana Michelin Dinner Auberge du Soleil Sparkling Napa Valley May 28th Calistoga Ranch Farm to Table Esperanza Art and Wine Mondays (each Monday in May) Nanuku Food Safari Experience AUBERGE DU SOLEIL HOTEL JEROME 180 Rutherford Hill Road 330 E Main Street Rutherford CA 94573 Aspen CO 81611 AUGUST Hotel Jerome Somm Off Calistoga Ranch All Things Chocolate Esperanza Churros Ice Cream SEPTEMBER Pronghorn Craft On-the-Farm Dinner September 10th Hotel Jerome September Dinner Series: Farmers’ Market Vegetarian Style Fridays and Saturdays in September Wild Game Dinner Malliouhana Boat Races Auberge du Soleil Michelin Dinner All-Star Weekend Napa Valley Calistoga Ranch Oktoberfest Esperanza Chiles en Nogada P. 707.963.1211 P. 855.220.6415 CALISTOGA RANCH 580 Lommel Road Calistoga CA 94515 ARCHETYPE NANUKU AUBERGE RESORT 1429 Main Street 11 Nanuku Drive St. Helena, CA 94574 Pacific Harbour, Fiji Islands P. 866.627.1455 P. 707.968.9200 FOOD OF PLACE • 2015 Hotel Jerome Cookie Decorating Class Spirits Flight Calistoga Ranch Olive Harvest Dinner Esperanza Organic Food Festival PRONGHORN MALLIOUHANA HOTEL AND SPA 65600 Pronghorn Club Drive Meads Bay Bend, OR 97701 British West Indies AI-2640 Anguilla P. 888.858.6379 P. 679.345.2100 ESPERANZA Carretera Transpeninsular Kilometer 7 Manzana 10 Punta Ballena Cabo San Lucas, BCS, Mexico 23410 P. 888.976.3436 P. 877.526.5855 AUBERGE BEACH RESIDENCES & SPA FORT LAUDERDALE 2200 North Atlantic Boulevard Fort Lauderdale, FL 33305 VIEVAGE LOS CABOS Km 15 Carretera Transpeninsular Cabo San Lucas San José del Cabo, BCS, CP 23410 P. 954.543.5567 58 DECEMBER P. 624.122.0440 Introducing the world’s most colorful stainless steel. Reflecting decades of passion, craftsmanship, and our bold new color, Palm. lecreuset.com