Read the article here

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Right down ours...
dublin’s docklands continue to grow apace, and, after a slow start, decent eateries are
cropping up to cater primarily for whatever expense accounts its banking, legal and IT
residents (there’s an appealing mix...) still have to burn. One such spot is seven-month old
Herbstreet. Its angular grey and orange interior may not be inviting, but husband-and-wife
team Siobhan Kennedy (head chef ) and Vinny Mullen (general manager) have managed to
create the intimate atmosphere of a local, with crowd-pleasing food, a small but decent wine
list, and attentive, well-groomed staff.
Lunchtime staples of fish and chips (€14.50), Caesar salad (€10.50) and steak sandwich
(€14.95) arrive in generous portions, alongside lighter dishes like the signature pan-fried
salmon and crab fish cakes (€14.95). Weekend brunch offerings include the standard full
Irish (€10.50) and buttermilk pancakes (just €3.95 for a short stack). During lunch hours, it’s
thick with said office workers but tables clear quickly; the affable Vinny keeps things moving.
Linger past 2pm and you’ll notice a strong local following – patrons and staff are on a firstname basis. Mundy’s a regular and John Healy (maître d’ on RTÉ’s The Restaurant) has been
spotted. Okay, so not Celeb Central, but we guarantee that you’ll be charmed. Hanover Quay,
Dublin 2. 675 3875
the counter
Fries with that?
these days, gourmet burger joints are
proliferating like impoverished bankers. Could
there be a connection? With expense accounts
shrinking, could Jo’Burger be the new
Guilbaud’s? Not all of these new arrivals are
as laudable as the aforementioned Rathmines
eatery. American import, The Counter, has
taken up residence in the Pembroke District
of the Dundrum Town Centre, and it’s a bit of
a curate’s egg to be honest. On entering, you
come face-to-face with a clipboard cataloguing
a cornucopia of ingredients and inviting
diners to combine such in order to customise
their burger. All a bit overwhelming, to be
honest, but there are pre-designed options for
lazy and unimaginative diners (me included).
The odd thing about the menu is that fries
are classified as a starter rather than an
accompaniment – and the waiting staff are
quite insistent that they should be ordered as
such. You really have to be firm to ensure that
they come with your burger. Having said that,
both burgers and fries are admirably fresh
and tasty. I chose a grilled chicken burger
(€9.75) with Gruyère, mixed baby greens,
tomatoes, scallions and honey mustard – very
tasty, a bit small. Prices are keen, service is
friendly if a little slap-dash. Probably not their
fault that they didn’t have a beer licence at
the time of writing. The Pembroke District,
Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 14. 216 4929,
thecounterburger.com
INDIGESTIBLE
READ
We read the reviews so you don’t have to
this month: china-sichuan
critic Lucinda O’Sullivan
Publication Sunday Independent
Where is it? Sandyford
Miles from mint 5
food Chinese
Loves, likes or hates? Hates
lines before the boot goes in 1
What’s great to eat? Dry-fried asparagus, dim sum
What’s so-so? Spring onion cake, salt & pepper squid
What’s naff? Scallops kun po-style with cashew nuts.
And most of the staff
Who should dine there? The few people who still have
“all that spare Celtic Tiger cash”
What to drink Sandyford tap water
pseud’s corner “When you consider the fabulous
Indian food in restaurants nowadays, this food
hasn’t moved on.”
portion of waffle “[We] sat on three little chairs
by the glass door like schoolkids in front of the
headmistress’s desk ... with people coming and
going, and nobody throwing us a smile or a word
of placation.”
in 60 words We trudge all the way out to blooming
Sandyford on a horrible night, and they’re rude
when we come in the door, and keep us waiting for
ages. All the food bar one dish was either passable
or excellent, but I can’t bring myself to give this
place a good review now. First impressions, lads
– don’t you forget it.
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