92 Baldacci 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Transcription

2 germany
34 south africa
13 france
38 California
16 greece
50 oregon
20 italy
54 spirits
27 Chile
56 beer
33 New zealand
BUYING GUIDE june 2011
Photo © Nigel Blythe
The village of Piesport’s famous Goldtröpfchen vineyard rises
steeply above the banks of the Mosel.
W i n eM ag.c om | 1
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BUYING GUIDE
Germany
DOUBLE DOWN ON THE 2009 VINTAGE
y all accounts, Germany’s 2010 harvest was
one of the smallest in recent history. With
demand for Riesling on the rise, prices for
the 2010s are sure to move up, making this a
good time to stock up on the 2009s, which are
currently on the market. The 2009 Germany vintage was a good one, with fine wines available in a
multitude of styles, ranging from light-bodied,
off-dry kabinetts to sweet, medium-bodied
spätleses and rich, sweet ausleses. Some of the
dry wines are outstanding as well.
This issue’s coverage focuses on Rieslings from
the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer regions, now mostly
referred to as the Mosel for marketing purposes.
The Mosel is best known of the three, home to
several of Germany’s most famous wine villages,
such as Bernkastel, Erden, Graach, Piesport and
Wehlen. These villages’ top vineyard sites are
slightly warmer than those in the Saar and Ruwer,
yielding wines that are just that little bit richer
and riper in style. In contrast, wines from the
Saar and Ruwer tend to have stronger backbones
of acidity and bright citrus notes.
Elsewhere in this month’s Buying Guide, our
reviewers report on the wines of Southern Italy,
where almost anything goes, from the sturdy, ageworthy Aglianico-based reds of Taurasi to delicate vini dei pesci, perfect alongside springtime
dishes of salmon or grouper. Many of the Greek
wines reviewed by Executive Editor Susan
Kostrzewa fall into similar categories: rustic reds
to accompany lamb and crisp, lemony whites
meant to partner fish.
California wines continue to dominate U.S.
consumption, and so we’ve also included a hefty
section on wines from the Golden State. There
are names you know, but also some names you
might not, as our intrepid reviewers continue to
unearth new producers. And don’t discount Oregon, which continues to be the source for some of
this country’s most balanced Pinot Noirs.
South of the equator, this month’s coverage
looks at recent releases from New Zealand, South
Africa and Chile, with top Cabernets from Maipo
to accompany Contributing Editor Michael
Schachner’s regional feature (“Maipo: Chile’s
Cradle of Cabernet Sauvignon,” pages 56–62).
Cheers!
—JOE CZERWINSKI
RIESLING AUSLESE
impression is one of richness without excessive weight
rather than sugary sweetness. Imported by Valckenberg
International, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
B
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef)
2009 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese
(Mosel); $41. Despite this wine’s intense richness and
ample residual sugar, it is so well balanced that it doesn’t come across as being particularly sweet. Hints of
flint or crushed stone amplify the purity of the fresh
apple and peach fruit and linger elegantly on the finish
of this full-bodied auslese. Drink now–2025, possibly
beyond. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
92
Peter Nicolay 2009 Bernkasteler Badstube
Riesling Auslese (Mosel); $35. Fairly priced
for an auslese of this quality, Nicolay’s 2009 from the
Bernkasteler Badstube is lean yet luscious, with a wiry
frame of taut citrus upon which hang riper notes of ripe
peaches and apricots. The finish is long and vibrant,
echoing with pure fruity deliciousness. Imported by
Miller Squared Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
92
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2009
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese
(Mosel); $84. The Thanisch wines from the Doctor
vineyard rarely stand out in our magazine’s blind tastings, making their value proposition questionable. That
said, this is a finely elegant wine, with floral details on
the nose and enduring stony notes on the finish that
mark it as something special. At only 7.5% abv, you’d
expect an intensely sweet wine, but the sugars are
amply buffered by acids and minerality, so the overall
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Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese
(Mosel); $29. So lush and rich, almost to the point of
being over the top, this is a hugely tropical Riesling,
with waves of cascading fruit. Yet there’s also a suggestion of slaty minerality and even a tinge of citrus pith
reining things in on the finish. Drink it now as a dessert
unto itself, or age it for a decade or more before trying
it with more savory dishes. Imported by Miller Squared
Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
91
Johann Falkenburg 2009 Bernkasteler
Schlossberg Riesling Auslese (Mosel); $13.
From one of Bernkastel’s least known vineyards, this is
a good buy in sweet Riesling, balancing sweet apple flavors against crisp, lime-like notes. Sweet yet refreshing, a good weeknight partner to Chinese or Thai
carryout. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy.
—J.C.
Venge 2008 Family Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Oakville); $125. An absolute joy
and triumph. Just superb, showcasing the best of
Oakville. Perfect tannins, as pure as velvet and sweet,
and perfect oak, too, with beautifully applied char and
wood spice. That the oak is 100% new is in keeping
with the wine’s volumetrics. The wine’s flavors are a
profound, heady expression of blackberries, blueberries, cassis and dark, barely sweetened chocolate. Just
spectacular, a real achievement by any world class standard. Production was a scant 275 cases. —S.H.
99
Dolce 2006 Late Harvest Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); $85. With this
wine, Dolce cements its status as California’s most consistently great dessert wine. This year’s blend is 80%
Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, and the grapes
were infected with the botrytis, resulting in the fantastic
sweetness. Devastating in apricot, orange, pear, honey,
vanilla and créme brûlée flavors, in an unctuous, viscous texture, with wonderfully clean acidity, it’s certainly one of the greatest sweet California wines in
memory. —S.H.
98
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RIESLING SPÄTLESE
Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2009 Graacher
Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel);
$25. The three Himmelreich ’09 spätleses tasted were
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Hall 2007 Exzellenz Sacrashe Vineyard
Red Wine (Rutherford); $165. Expensive,
yes, but this is a very great Cabernet, and the Sacrashe
Vineyard repeatedly proves itself as one of the best in
Rutherford, if not Napa Valley itself. The 100% Cabernet, which is a limited production barrel selection of
only 420 cases, is so delicious in blackberry jam, chocolate, olive and cedar flavors, it’s hard to not drain the
bottle now. But it also shows fabulously rich tannins
that suggest aging. May not be one for the long haul,
but certainly great over the next six years. —S.H.
96
Macauley 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $72. A stunningly good Cabernet. Just dazzling in sheer delicious fruit, yet wonderfully structured. So smooth and velvety, flooding the
mouth with layers of blackberries, black cherries, cassis,
chocolate, mint, spice and toast. The tannins are
thrilling, being firm and soft at the same time. The
vineyard sourcing was Star, in Rutherford, and Stagecoach, on Atlas Peak, with a few drops from Beckstoffer
To Kalon. Very great now, and should develop over the
next 10 years. —S.H.
96
Macauley 2007 Special Selected Late Harvest Botrytis Sémillon (Alexander Valley);
$45. This is one of the best dessert wines available from
California. It’s dazzlingly rich and sweet in orange jam,
apricot, honey, buttered cinnamon toast and créme
brûlée flavors. The intense sweetness is perfectly balanced with crisp acidity, and the wine despite its sweetness accomplishes the miracle of finishing dry and
clean. The grapes are 100% Sémillon. —S.H.
96
Domaine Carneros 2005 Le Rêve
(Carneros); $90. With this brut-style wine,
Domaine Carneros competes against California’s most
serious sparkling wine contenders. It is certainly the
finest Le Rêve ever, glamorous and provocative, massively flavored in lemon, lime and tangerine flavors, yet
balanced and elegant, with the doughy tartness of
Champagne. A great achievement. —S.H.
95
Domaine Serene 2007 Evenstad Reserve
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $58. A very
elegant and refined Evenstad Reserve, with grace notes
of sandalwood and a lovely cherry core. The fruit is
immaculate, the concentration focused and lengthy, and
the flavors are so artfully blended that the wine is seamless and perfectly balanced. Although it is drinking like
a mature wine, there is every reason to cellar wines
such as this—it can develop like a fine Burgundy, over
decades. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
95
Far Niente 2008 Estate Bottled Cabernet
Sauvignon (Oakville); $120. Shows the elegance and pedigree that this estate vineyard, in the
heart of the Oakville bench, always shows. The tannins
are sweet and ripe, and the wine brims with luscious
blackberry, cassis and mocha flavors, accented with new
oak that’s flashy, yet perfectly in keeping with the wine’s
volume. Should slowly mature over the years. —S.H
95
Venge 2008 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $76. A beautiful,
brilliant but immature Cabernet. It’s massively rich in
blackberry and cherry pie filling, cassis, dark chocolate
and fine, smoky oak flavors, wrapped into thick but fine,
sweet tannins. Shows elegance and finesse despite the
power, but needs time. Best after 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
95
Donelan 2009 Kobler Family Vineyard
Syrah (Green Valley); $45. An amazing wine,
massively concentrated in fruit, yet beautifully balanced. Clearly one of the greatest California Syrahs of
the vintage. Dry and complex, it shows intricate flavors
of blackberries, Canadian bacon, mushu pork sauce,
black pepper and smoky cedar flavors. Gorgeous and
compelling, but far too young. Drink 2012–2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
94
Kenefick Ranch 2006 Pickett Road Red
(Napa Valley); $55. Young, intense and briary, with summer herb notes of anise framing ripe, spicy
blackberries. Oak adds a rich, deft touch of sweet char.
The tannins are considerable and brooding, giving this
dry young wine an astringent tightness. Shows all the
hallmarks of ageability. 45% Merlot, 43% Petit Verdot
7% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
94
Zahtila 2007 Barlow Vineyards Cabernet
Sauvignon (Calistoga); $50. Very dark, rich
and dramatic. Massively constructed, with vast reserves
of blackberry jam, blackstrap molasses, mocha, smoked
meat, mushu plum sauce and sweet, smoky oak. The
tannins are big, ripe and astringent. A great Cabernet
that clearly needs plenty of time. Drink 2015 and
beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
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BUYING GUIDE
Baldacci 2007 Brenda’s Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stags Leap District); $105.
Shows its youth in the assaultive tannins that hit the
palate with astringent toughness. But underneath are
rich, pure and vibrant blackberry, cherry and cassis flavors. A very fine wine, as this bottling tends to be, but
one in serious need of cellaring. It’s already throwing
some sediment, suggesting it’s impatient to evolve. Give
it another 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
93
Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Pàtrimo (Campania); $120. The legend behind Pàtrimo is
that the folks at Feudi di San Gregorio had misidentified the grape variety planted in their historic vineyard
until it was finally confirmed to be Merlot. Very few
vineyards with international varieties exist in this part of
the world. This is a beautifully elegant but large expression with precise aromas of blackberry, spice, chocolate and maraschino cherry. The gorgeous 2007 vintage
shows tannins that could still age in the cellar and a
slightly sweet or chewy finish. Imported by Palm Bay
International. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
93
Hall 2007 Segassia Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mount Veeder); $145. Hall,
which has gotten huge scores over the years, now has
this Mount Veeder bottling, but the warning is that
they’re playing with fire. It’s so massive in fruit, it risks
being ridiculed as a bombastic pop wine. There’s no
denying the power of the blackberries, currants, chocolate and oak, but there’s a case to be made for elegance
and restraint. Easily earns its high score, but the hope is
that the winemaker will be mindful with future
releases. —S.H.
93
Michael David 2008 6th Sense Syrah Syrah
(Lodi); $16. A ridiculously hedonistic bottle of
Syrah, this hits you first with its heady aromas of strong
black olive, tobacco and bacon, then seduces you further with layers of rich berry fruit topped by Syrahproper pepper. Blended with Petite Sirah and Petit
Verdot and fairly high in alcohol (15.5%) this is one for
those who love good Syrah. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
93
Santa Rita 2007 Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $75. One of Chile’s
benchmark wines is typically clean, pure and inviting.
The nose is ripe and lusty, while the palate is vital, juicy,
fresh and crisp, with fine Cabernet flavors of black currant, cherry, chocolate and more. Probably the closest
thing in style to great Napa Valley Cab; deep, dense
and long on the finish. A hearty but refined wine to
drink now through 2017. Imported by Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
93
Archery Summit 2008 Arcus Estate Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills); $100. Spicy and
assertive, this young, cellar-worthy Pinot Noir just hints
at the complexity within. Give it plenty of air time and it
opens aromatically with allspice, sandalwood, perhaps
some cola and pine needle. The tart and tangy berry
fruit is still compact and primary, but fully ripe and
nicely sculpted into a well-defined wine from start to
finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
92
Baldacci 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags
Leap District); $65. Tough in tannins, with an
astringent, lockdown quality. That’s the iron fist of this
wine. The velvet glove is the rich, flamboyant core of
blackberries and cassis. Give this young wine at least six
years to come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
92
Château Moulin de la Rose 2008 SaintJulien; $70. One of the few properties in SaintJulien that is not a cru classé, Moulin de la Rose does
have all the elegant, structured character of the vintage. The tannins are firm, suggesting good long-term
aging prospects. Imported by Serge Doré Selections.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
92
Cinnabar 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa
Cruz Mountains); $45. Cinnabar produced
this wine and has held it back longer than most other
wineries. As a result, the 100% Cabernet has achieved a
velvety softness, making it immediately drinkable. It
has pretty flavors of cherries, black raspberries, chocolate and smoky oak.—S.H.
92
Feudi di San Gregorio 2006 Taurasi; $40.
This is a gorgeous interpretation of Aglianico in
which the tannic grape is softened and rounded out
thanks to quality winemaking. Aromas of chocolate
fudge, exotic spice, rum cake and loads of black fruit
appear on the bouquet. You will, however, feel that
characteristic tightness on the long, drying finish.
Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L.
92
Château Béhèré Courtin 2008 Pauillac;
$68. The small Pauillac vineyard close to some
of the first growths is able to bring out all the Cabernetdominated structure of the appellation. Look for black
currant fruits, dark tannins and dense texture. Age for
six years. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
91
Chime 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County);
$19. What a great Pinot, and look at that price.
The wine is translucent in ruby hue, dry, silky in texture
and crisp in acids, showing the textural hallmarks of a
fine coastal bottling. The raspberry, cherry, cola and
spice flavors are delicious and complex. A terrific value.
Production was 1,100 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
91
Hall 2007 Darwin Red Wine (Napa Valley);
$40. A juicy wine, rich, ripe and sweet in jammy
fruit and caramelized oak flavors. Black raspberries,
blackberries and mocha, spiced with cinnamon and
pepper, flood the mouth, wrapped into beautifully
sculpted, sweet tannins. A lovely wine to drink now.
The wine is mainly Syrah, with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H
92
Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite)
2008 Le Dix de Los Vascos (Colchagua Valley); $50. Rich and bold from the start, with cassis,
raspberry, coffee and tobacco aromas that yield to
creamy mocha upon airing. The palate is ripe, tannic
and structured, with blackfruit flavors, a touch of herbs
and espresso. Long and herbal on the finish, with a
smooth fade. Drink now through 2015. Imported by
Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S.
91
Matanzas Creek 2008 Chardonnay
(Sonoma County); $29. A beautiful Chardonnay that shows the fruit and oak most people want from
their wine, but also the acidity and balance to make it
vibrant. The pineapple and buttered toast flavors finish
in a scour of acidic stony minerals that cleanse and stimulate the palate. Drink now. —S.H.
91
Santa Rita 2008 Medalla Real Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $20. A profound
Cabernet from Santa Rita’s home vineyard in Alto
Jahuel. The hue is dark and opaque, while the nose is
deep and earthy, but also intensely fruity. Shows fine
structure and a lot of black cherry and cassis. Grabby,
tight and ageable through at least 2013. The real deal in
affordable Chilean higher-end CS; offers a little of
everything, from spice to herbs to olive to fine fruit.
Imported by Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice.
—M.S.
91
Stark-Condé 2007 Three Pines Unfined
and Unfiltered Syrah (Jonkershoek Valley); $35. An immediately attractive wine with intense
aromas of black raspberry, cherry and plum laced with
toasted cedar and mocha accents. The texture is like
crushed velvet, and the rich mouth filled with firm but
fine-grain tannins. A touch of cola spice unwinds on
the long finish. Drink now–2014. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
92
Clos du Val 2009 Ariadne Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); $25. This blend
of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc is bone dry and
sophisticated, with a bite of acidity that makes it exceptionally food friendly. Made with just a touch of oak, it’s
marked by brisk flavors of lemons, limes, green apples
and Asian pears, with a hint of tart gooseberry. A
mouthwateringly clean wine that’s great as a cocktail
sipper with little appetizers. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
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BUYING GUIDE
Domaine Carneros 2007 Brut (Carneros);
$26. This is a glamorous, fashionable wine that
gives the pleasure you want in a bubbly. It’s dryish and
crisp, with doughy yeast, raspberry and lime flavors. A
good price for a California sparkling wine of this quality.
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
90
Wine Spots 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $25. The upside of the recession is that wines this good are being sold for lower
prices, which is great news for consumers. This Cabernet, basically a négociant’s blend, is really delicious. It’s
rich, dry, tannic and lush in blackberry and cherry tart,
chocolate and smoky cedar flavors. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
91
Joel Gott 2008 Dillian Ranch Zinfandel
(Amador County); $28. Delicious. A drinkably juicy, brambly version of Amador County Zin, consistently one of Joel Gott’s best, with appetizing texture
and mouthfeel and dry, dusty tannins, ready to go now
with a range of meaty foods but also able to age. —V.B
90
Cinnabar 2007 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz
Mountains); $29. Still acidic and steely in
minerals at the age of nearly four years, this Chardonnay has an elegance that will appeal to sommeliers and
foodies. It’s a Chablis-style wine, bone dry and crisp,
with tart lemon, lime and grapefruit flavors. Defines a
leaner California style that is classically Santa Cruz
Mountains. —S.H.
90
Cinnabar 2008 Mercury Rising (California);
$21. A blend of the five major Bordeaux varieties, this is a deliciously soft wine. So easy to like for its
rich blackberry, cherry, raspberry and smoky oak flavors, courtesy of 40% new barrels. Shows lots of class
for the price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
90
S.A. Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $25. Makes an interesting contrast with the J.J. Prüm bottling from the
same site, weighing in at a full 1.5% less in finished
alcohol, and showing mineral-inflected passion fruit flavors and a touch of vanilla. The sweetness is finely balanced by mouthwatering acidity on the finish. Imported
by Palm Bay International. —J.C.
90
Château Tertre de Viaud 2009 Côtes de
Bourg; $20. A ripe, smoky wine, full of very
juicy fruit. Black plums and berries are complemented
by a core of firm tannins and bright acidity. Sweet, rich
and attractive. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —
R.V.
89
Francis Coppola 2009 Diamond Collection
G o l d L a b e l C h a rd o n n a y ( M o n t e re y
County); $16. Here’s a nice, bright Chardonnay that
can be described as Chablisian. It’s bone dry and very
bright in tangy acidity, with a squirt of lime juice over
Meyer lemons, pineapples and green apples. A touch of
oak adds just the right note of buttered toast. Easy to
find, with 73,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —
S.H.
89
Incognito 2009 White Wine Blend (Lodi);
$18. Michael David makes this white wine, a
blend of mostly Viognier and Chardonnay, with smaller
amounts of Malvasia Bianca, Roussanne, Sauvignon
Blanc and Symphony, steel-tank fermented and aged, a
deliciously bright and perfumed, light-drinking, golden
wine with a tropical fruit nose and ripe peach and
melon as it goes down. —V.B.
89
Sobon Estate 2008 Fiddletown Zinfandel
(Fiddletown); $20. A ripe, rustic Zin, the Fiddletown being one of Sobon’s better bottlings every
year, grown high in elevation. Its serious tannins are
balanced by burgeoning blackberry and blueberry fruit
interweaved with all the tobacco and leather one has
come to expect from this neck of the woods. —V.B.
89
Terre du Lion 2008 Saint-Julien; $16. This
wine is finely structured with the red berry and
black plum fruit flavors leading to a central core of tannins. There is good juiciness as well, the whole ensemble promising good medium-term aging. The second
wine of Château du Glana. Imported by Serge Doré
Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
89
Valley of the Moon 2008 Syrah (Sonoma
County); $16. A beautiful Syrah that stands up
to bottlings costing far more. Dry and medium-bodied,
it’s marked by smooth tannins and deliciously complex
flavors of black cherries, licorice, bacon, black pepper
and sandalwood. Production was 3,600 cases. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
89
Kenwood 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley); $16. This Pinot combines power with
elegance in a cost-effective way, making it a great buy.
It will stand against many more expensive wines, with
its silky tannins and dry, interesting cherry, raspberry
and sandalwood flavors. Easy to find, with production
nearing 35,000 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
88
Sobon Estate 2008 Cougar Hill Zinfandel
(Amador County); $17. A nice dusty Zinfandel from Sobon’s Cougar Hill, with spicy, pepper and
cedar elements rounding out the prominent blackberry.
A deeply concentrated wine that would be great with
barbecue. —V.B.
88
Barista 2009 Pinotage (Western Cape);
$15. Mocha is the dominating characteristic of
this wine, with notes of cherry pie filling, black raspberry and sweet cigar tobacco playing against it.
Creamy and full in the mouth with fine tannins that
linger through the long finish. Drink now. Imported by
Indigo Wine Group. —L.B.
Castel dell’Angelo 2006 Colli e Sole
Aglianico (Campania); $NA. Here’s a
smokey, mineral-driven red wine from southern Italy
that offers a solid, silky ride just until the end, when
those jackhammer tannins hit. Pair this wine with a fatty
or creamy meat dish to help balance the firmness of
the structure. Imported by Ital Pastaio Imports. —M.L
87
Indulge 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (North
Coast); $20. Packaged in an unusual plasticstyle recyclable bag, with a seal you have to figure out
how to open, this is a fine Sauvignon Blanc. At the
equivalent of ten bucks for a regular bottle, it’s dry, crisp
and fruity, with lime and gooseberry flavors. Delivers
lots of bang for the buck. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
87
87
Valley of the Moon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County); $18. Lots to like in
this Cabernet, at a great price for the quality. It’s dry
and smooth, with classic Cabernet flavors of blackberries, currants and smoky oak. A great house wine or a
restaurant by-the-glass pour. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
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BUYING GUIDE
BEST BUYS
Sobon Estate 2009 Viognier (Amador
County); $15. A rich Amador County estategrown Viognier with a touch of diesel on the nose balanced out by honey and peach, this wine spent time
barrel fermenting in French and American oak and
would go well seafood or, as the winery suggests, pepper steak. —V.B.
86
SPIRITS
Pisco Capel Reservado (Chile; Shaw-Ross
International Importers, Miramar, FL);
40% abv, $16. The scent reads as fruity and a touch
smoky; on the tongue, it’s surprisingly sweet, finishing
long and fruity, with some herbaceous and vanilla notes
on the finish. A smooth and sophisticated pisco, and an
excellent value. —K.N.
93
BEST BUYS
Sebastiani 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma
County); $13. Balance, elegance and varietal
purity mark this wine. It’s delicious and zesty, filled with
pineapple, pear, green apple, honey and oak, wrapped
into a texture of buttercream and with a long, spicy finish. What a great price. Best Buy. —S.H.
91
Foris 2009 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley); $14.
Foris has Pinot Gris dialed in, showcasing the
subtle, delicate flavors perhaps closer to Italian Pinot
Grigio than other, big, fruity domestic bottlings. The
winery location,— in the cool Illinois Valley of southwest Oregon, puts an Alpine twist on the flavors—
lemon peel, pineapple, lime, and just a touch of honey.
Best Buy. —P.G.
90
Boekenhoutskloof 2009 The Wolftrap
(Western Cape); $11. Ripe and juicy with
notes of black raspberry, cherry and mulberry accented
by hints of mocha and cigar spice. The mouth is silky
and decadent with a wonderfully peppery finish that
lingers nicely. Widely available with 15,000 cases
imported. Drink now. Imported by Vineyard Brands.
Best Buy. —L.B.
89
Casas del Bosque 2010 Reserva Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $12. Oceanic and
mildly green on the nose, with grassy notes and appealing citrusy scents. The palate is juicy, crisp and zesty,
with flavors of fresh lettuce, lime and green herbs. Finishes light and pretty. Imported by Vinocopia. Best
Buy. —M.S.
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BEST BUYS
The White Knight 2008 Viognier (Clarksburg); $13. Full of minerality on the nose, this
tropical Viognier from Clarksburg grapes is dry and
acidic, well balanced and not over the top in alcohol
(13.5%), a spicy, citrus-laden California Viognier worth
trying. Best Buy. —V.B.
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Santa Rita 2008 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $12. Nice and ripe,
with light whiffs of olive and herbs and strong berry
fruit aromas. The palate is pure Maipo, meaning it
blends herbal notes with black fruits, especially cassis.
Firm in structure, stout on the finish, and ends with a
hint of chocolate. Imported by Palm Bay International.
Best Buy. —M.S.
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Emiliana 2010 Natura Un-oaked Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); $11. This unoaked
Chard is light and peachy on the nose, with apple aromas. It’s a fruity, driving, almost grating wine with
apple, white grape and melony flavors. Super fruity and
zesty without the wood tempering, with a citric, lightly
bitter and pithy finish. Imported by Banfi Vintners.
Best Buy. —M.S.
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BEST BUYS
Emiliana 2010 Eco Balance Sauvignon
Blanc (Bío Bío Valley); $9. A glassy, crisp style
of SB from Bío Bío in Chile’s south. The nose is pungent and slick, while the palate has a smooth, tangy set
of green fruit flavors like lime and apple. Reserved on
the finish, with chiseled acids and fresh simplicity.
Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
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Morandé 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $11. Piquant aromas mix
with dusty apple on the nose. The palate is tangy and
zingy, with green apple, pineapple and lemony flavors.
More simple and straightforward than complex, but
well made and spans the 3 Z’s: zest, zap and zing.
Imported by Morande USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
BEST BUYS
Barton & Guestier 2010 Réserve Sauvignon Blanc (Cotes de Gascogne); $8. Classic southwest France Sauvignon Blanc, bright, fresh
and citrus-flavored. Great for summer drinking, clean
and delicious. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA.
Best Buy. —R.V.
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Vistamar 2009 Sepia Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $10. Spicy and
dry on the nose, with red cherry, plum and candied
sweetness. The palate has good body and feel, with
medicinal plum and berry flavors along with an olive
accent. Juicy and forward, with a lightly herbal finish.
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Domaine de Ballade 2009 Sauvignon
Blanc-Colombard (Vin de Pays des Côtes
de Gascogne); $11. Dominated by herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc, this cool wine is a great alternative New
Zealand Sauvignon. It has nettle and gooseberry flavors
with an attractive poise and fresh acidity. Screwcap.
Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. Best Buy.
—R.V.
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BEST BUYS
Redtree 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (California); $8. This is one of the best deals,
maybe the best, in a Cabernet Sauvignon available
today at this price. It’s dry and rich in blackberry,
cherry, mint and smoky oak flavors, wrapped into finely
ground tannins. A great wine to buy by the case for a
house red. Production was nearly 30,000 cases. Best
Buy. —S.H.
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Miguel Torres 2009 Santa Digna Reserve
Carmenère (Central Valley); $10. Earthy and
damp smelling, with chunky black cherry and olive aromas. The palate has a slightly choppy feel and then
spicy, sweet flavors of herbs and blackberry. Finishes a
little burnt and bitter, but overall there’s enough sweetness and ripeness to offset any herbal qualities.
Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —M.S
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Redtree 2009 Chardonnay (California); $8.
For the price, you get a rich, sweet Chardonnay,
plush in pineapple, honey and oak flavors. Best Buy.
—S.H.
flipflop 2009 Pinot Noir (California); $7.
The best bargain Pinot Noir in the state. It’s
ruby-clear in color, dry and light-bodied, with pleasant
flavors of cherries, cola, spices and cedar. Production
was 20,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H.
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BUYING GUIDE
BEST BUYS
all terrific, with this example showing great intensity
and power without excessive weight. Apple and lime
notes are underscored by something akin to liquid
slate, while citrus notes linger on the long, vibrant finish. Imported by Miller Squared Inc. Editors’ Choice.
—J.C.
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese
(Mosel); $23. If there is any criticism to be made of
this wine, it might be that it is just too fruity. Waves of
honey and tropical fruit coat the mouth, wonderfully
balanced by zesty acidity, and while it is sweet and lush
it never seems cloying or heavy. Delicious now–2015,
at least. Imported by Miller Squared Inc. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
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flipflop 2010 Moscato (California); $7. This
is a dessert wine because it’s frankly sweet in
honey, sugared pineapple tart and lemon pie filling flavors. With crisp acidity, it’s a nice sipper, clean and delicious. It’s the best sweet Moscato at this price in
California. Best Buy. —S.H.
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S.A. Prüm 2009 Graacher Himmelreich
Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $31. A lovely
effort from proprietor Raimund Prüm, this plump,
creamy-textured spätlese displays ample minerality—
there’s a distinctly slate-driven note—allied to ripe apple,
stone fruit and citrus. Sweet but not overwhelmingly so,
this would be terrific with slightly sweet or spicy dishes.
Imported by Palm Bay International. —J.C.
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Dr. Loosen 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $30. The wines from
Erden are almost always stars in the Loosen stable, and
this 2009 spätlese is no exception. It’s sweet and lush,
with ripe cherry-berry notes balanced by fresh limes
and a chaser of crushed stone. Long and balanced, suitable for contemplative sipping or partnering slightly
spicy or sweet dishes. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA.
—J.C.
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flipflop 2010 Pinot Grigio (California); $7.
Textbook Pinot Grigio, crisp in acidity and
slightly sweet, with brilliant lemongrass, pineapple, pear,
green apple and honeysuckle flavors. So easy to drink, at
a great price. With production at 15,000 cases, it’s easy
to find. Best Buy. —S.H.
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Joh. Jos. Prüm 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $42. This
wine shows terrific complexity at this young age, with
spicy notes akin to musk, dusty notes akin to crushed
stone and plenty of underlying fruit. It’s stony yet
sweet, lush yet crisp. A trifle heavier than expected, it
finishes long, with savory-briny notes. Might this rating
seem conservtive in 5–10 years? Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
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Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $29. Not far off
the quality of Nicolay’s 2009 Badstube auslese, the
spätlese still displays waves of fruit, just slightly less
ripeness. The flavors shade toward pear and melon,
with an intriguing spice note that shows through on
the finish. Sweet, but food-friendly thanks to balanced
acids and modest alcohol of 8.5%. Imported by Miller
Squared Inc. —J.C.
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flipflop 2009 Chardonnay (California); $7.
Not bad for a seven buck Chardonnay in a
screwtop. Shows plenty of varietal flavor in the buttercream, honey and pineapple flavors. Easy to find, with
20,000 cases produced. Best Buy. —S.H.
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Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009
Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese
(Mosel); $41. The 2009 Scharzhofberger from von
Kesslestatt evinces such crystalline purity of fruit that it
almost hurts—in a good way. It’s light to medium in
body, yet shows knife-edge intensity of strawberry and
lime flavors and manages to be creamy-textured on the
midpalate yet crisp on the finish. In short, it shows all
of the wonderful contradictions of supremely ripe fruit
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from one of the world’s marginal grapegrowing regions.
Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese
(Mosel); $39. For a spätlese, this is on the drier, racier
side of things, with lime-like notes providing vibrance
to the wine’s stony, slate-like core. It’s light to medium
in body, with a crisp, refreshing finish. Try as an apéritif, or alongside certain Asian dishes. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc and Slocum & Sons,
Inc.—J.C.
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Dr. Loosen 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $30. Loosen’s
2009 spätlese from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr is a lush,
medium-bodied wine loaded with honey and peaches.
It’s superripe and succulent, with a long, fruity finish.
Try it with Szechuan dishes, which will buffer the
sweetness of the wine while the wine tames some of
the heat. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. —J.C.
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $31.
Lush, honeyed and tropically fruited, this epitomizes
the Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler house style. It seems sweeter
than many other 2009 spätleses, with its considerable
sugar evident on the long finish. Drink it on its own, or
alongside spicy Asian cuisine. Imported by Winesellers
Ltd. —J.C.
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Joh. Jos. Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $47. Light-bodied and lithe, this is not as fruity or flashy as many of its
brethren from this vintage. Instead, it offers mineral
complexity only slightly buffered by notes of ripe
apples and stone fruit, and a long, citrusy finish. Give it
some time in the cellar, where it should blossom in
another 5–7 years. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
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Studert-Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $24. Light in
body, with a fine backbone of taut acidity, this is a
throwback to a time when spätleses were slightly drier
than today. Delicate scents of crushed stone and
pressed flowers are underscored by hints of green
apple and lime. This would make a fine apéritif on its
own, or could perhaps partner subtle seafood dishes.
Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 Bernkasteler
Badstube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $28.
Medium-bodied and lush, powered by ripe fruit flavors of apple, peach and pineapple. There’s a bit of a
flinty note on the nose and a slight vinyl-like element
on the finish, which add either complexity or detract
from the fruit, depending on your perspective.
Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
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Vereinigte Hospitien 2009 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $32.
Light almost to the point of etherealness, this is a delicate yet expressive rendering of one of the Saar’s greatest vineyards, boasting subtle stone shadings, damp
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mossy notes, green apple and lime. Clean and refreshing on the finish. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
RIESLING KABINETT
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef)
2009 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $22. This kabinett possesses lovely balance, marrying sweet pineapple aspects with zesty
citrus notes. The fruit is lush to the point of slightly
covering the underlying minerality, but remains clean
and racy on the finish. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.
Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $23. In a
flight of five 2009 kabinetts from the Sonnenuhr, this
was the most alcoholic (at 9.5% abv), but the extra
weight didn’t stand out beyond a bit of extra creaminess on the palate. Hints of lees and slate add complexity to the apple and citrus notes, then linger elegantly
on the finish. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 Bernkasteler
alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling
Kabinett (Mosel); $25. Sweet and lush in the house
style, but lighter on its feet than many of the other bottlings from Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler, this kabinett shows
some intriguing fumé-like notes on the nose, then delivers ripe melon and pear fruit on the palate. Finishes
long. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
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Joh. Jos. Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $37. Manfred
Prüm’s 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett is a bit bigger than usual, and perhaps a bit drier as well at 9%
abv, but it still displays hallmark notes of slate, lime and
apple. Fruit, mineral and gingery spice notes linger on
the finish. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc.
—J.C.
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Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $20. Nicely balanced and nicely priced, this is a medium-bodied kabinett that would make delicious summertime drinking.
It shows hints of wet stone, but also layers of sweet
apple, pear and lemon fruit, which ease into a long,
harmoniously crisp and clean finish. Imported by Miller
Squared Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
90
S.A. Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $25. For full review
see page 6. Imported by Palm Bay International.
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Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $22. Comes across
as slightly rich, sweet and heavy for a kabinett, but this
wine remains very enjoyable for its lush, sweet flavors
of ripe peaches, baked apple and honey. Imported by
Miller Squared Inc. —J.C.
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Dr. Loosen 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $26. Loosen’s
focus on fruit purity is reflected admirably in this pristine Riesling. The only quibble would be a slight lack of
complexity. Sweet berry fruit is balanced by racy limelike acidity, resulting in a wine that’s clean, refreshing
and nicely balanced at a low 7.5% abv. Imported by
Loosen Bros. USA. —J.C.
S.A. Prüm 2009 Prüm Blue Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $19. Intentionally skewed
toward the drier side of kabinett, this is an impressive
effort from proprietor Raimund Prüm. It’s light in body,
with fairly ripe fruit flavors of honeyed apple and a hint
of apricot, yet intensely refreshing thanks to crisp acidity. Drink now. Imported by Palm Bay International.
—J.C.
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Schmitges 2009 Red Slate Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $19. A light, refreshing style of
kabinett, with a floral, perfumed nose, ripe fruit flavors
of apple and peach, plenty of citrus for balance and
even a hint of crushed stone to add complexity. It’s easydrinking, perfect for summer sipping. Imported by
Magellan Wine Imports. —J.C.
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Bollig-Lehnert 2009 Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel);
$19. Pale in color and light in body, this waif of a kabinett is undeniably attractive, offering a delicate kaleidoscope of pear, apple, pineapple and lime fruit linked
together in gentle harmony. Drink it over the next year
or two. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
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Studert-Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $21. Focused and
pure, with delicate lime and green apple shadings that
come together in a yin-yang of tart and sweet to represent the essence of the Mosel kabinett style. Crisp and
refreshing, this is an easy-drinking wine that seems destined to be consumed over the next few years.
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Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett
(Mosel); $29. This is relatively light in body despite an
ample 9% abv. It’s slightly sweet, yet shows a taut, wiry
frame and crisp green apple and citrus flavors accented
by hints of crushed stone. Imported by Valckenberg
International, Inc and Slocum & Sons, Inc. —J.C.
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Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett
(Mosel); $15. Enlivened by a touch of CO2, this is a
light, crisp kabinett that comes close to epitomizing the
style. Lime and green apple flavors, a good balance
between sugar and acid, with a hints of citrus pith on
the finish. Imported by Miller Squared Inc. —J.C.
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Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel);
$30. Representing a bit of a chink in von Kesselstatt’s
impressive array of 2009s, this wine features slightly
restrained notes of pineapple and green apple in a
slightly uneasy alliance of sweet and sour. Drink up.
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Maximin Grünhäuser 2009 Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $35. A bit of an anomaly for this fine Ruwer estate, where being merely good
is a disappointment. It starts off with attractive stone
and ripe apple notes, but seems somewhat acetic on
the palate—there’s an intrusive pickle-like note.
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DRY RIESLING
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 Graach
Josephshöfer Riesling Trocken GG (Mosel);
$54. In 2009, the Josephshöfer seems to offer the most
mineral presence of the various von Kesselstatt GG bottlings, displaying an almost briny character at first, then
molten rock tinged with hints of peach, orange and
apple. The alcohol is only 12.5%, yet it comes across as
full bodied, rich and creamy in texture, with a long,
spice-driven finish. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
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Maximin Grünhäuser 2009 Herrenberg
Alte Reben Riesling Trocken (Mosel); $42.
Despite carrying 12% alcohol, this is a reasonably lightbodied wine, with intriguing passion fruit notes alongside apple, melon and pear. The midpalate is slightly
creamy, the finish long, bringing with it hints of crushed
stone and spice. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
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Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen Riesling Trocken GG
(Mosel); $43. Like the Josephshöfer bottling, von
K e s s e l s t a t t ’s 2 0 0 9 G G f r o m t h e P i e s p o r t e r
Goldtröpfchen boasts a salty minerality that underscores the ripe flavors of peach and orange zest. It’s
medium to full in body, and nearly bone dry, with a
long, mouth-watering finish. Imported by Valckenberg
International, Inc. —J.C.
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Würtz 2008 Geyerscheiss Riesling (Rheinhessen); $40. A unique style of Riesling, naturally fermented on the skins for 20 days prior to
pressing. The result is intriguing: honey and baked
apple notes tinged with peach-like ripeness and briny
minerality. It’s medium-bodied, crisp and dry yet with a
sense of honeyed richness. Imported by Domaine
Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
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Dr. Heyden 2009 Diamant Dry Riesling
(Rheinhessen); $21. This wine, from the
Oppenheimer Herrenberg, is a broad, medium-bodied
Riesling that comes across as just a bit off dry. Petrollike notes impart minerality, while the fruit hints more
at citrus or lychee. Finishes long, with hints of gingery
spice. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
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Maximin Grünhäuser 2009 Riesling
Trocken (Mosel); $25. Nearly as good as the
Herrenberg Alte Reben bottling, this dry Riesling features a lacy swirl of apple, vanilla and citrus embedded
in a base of what can only be said to resemble rainwater
collected in a stony hollow. The flavors linger on the finish while remaining light and fresh. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
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BUYING GUIDE
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009
Scharzhofberger Riesling Trocken GG
(Mosel); $41. An interesting example of dry Riesling,
one that displays a dense, honeyed bouquet and flavors
that resemble honey but without the sweetness. Hard
to imagine, but that’s the closest approximation I can
come up with. It’s creamy on the midpalate and fairly
full bodied (12.5% abv) for a wine from this far north.
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Christoph von Nell 2009 Kaseler
Dominikanerberg Ruva Nova Riesling
Trocken (Mosel); $43. From a little-known site in the
Ruwer, this wine starts off slowly, then builds to a fine
crescendo. The aromas are barely present, but the flavors of apple and citrus expand on the palate, adding
mineral notes on the lengthy finish. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
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Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 Kaseler
Nies’chen Riesling Trocken GG (Mosel);
$49. The von Kesselstatt estate released four GG bottlings in 2009, and this wine was perhaps the least of
them. It’s very good nonetheless, with fresh, slightly floral aromas and bold flavors of baked apple and orange
zest. There’s a chunkiness in the mouth and a slight
coarseness of texture compared to the others, but that’s
splitting hairs. Imported by Valckenberg International,
Inc. —J.C.
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Melsheimer 2009 Riesling Trocken (Mosel);
$19. Although this is not particularly intense or
complex, there’s no denying its easy appeal. It’s nearly
dry, with a creamy midpalate and medium body, and features easy-to-like notes of apple, melon and citrus. Finishes refreshingly clean. Drink it over the next year or
two. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C.
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Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2009 Dry Riesling
(Rheinhessen); $15. A decent value in dry
Riesling, this offering from the home estate of Valckenberg features scents of lime, clover blossom and petrichor (wet stones), then delivers bright citrusy-apple
flavors. It’s medium in body and broad in the mouth yet
crisp at the same time, finishing with zesty acids. Drink
now. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
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Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2009 Dry Riesling (Mosel); $14. This is on the big side for a
Mosel Riesling, at 12% alcohol, and the warmth shows
through just a little bit. Still, the scents of wet moss and
stone and chunky flavors suggesting melon, peach and
citrus are undeniably attractive. Drink now. Imported
by Miller Squared Inc. —J.C.
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OTHER RIESLING
Dr. Fischer 2009 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling (Mosel); $13. A strong showing for this
entry-level offering from the Dr. Fischer estate on the
Saar, with some funky passion fruit notes adding character to this creamy-textured, amply concentrated wine.
Finishes off-dry, with lingering mineral notes. Handpicked at kabinett-level ripeness, this is a great value.
Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —J.C.
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Maximin Grünhäuser 2009 Riesling
(Mosel); $25. This is the entry-level wine from
the great Maximin Grünhäuser estate on the Ruwer.
It’s nearly dry in style, with hints of struck flint overlying
concentrated passion fruit flavors. The slightly creamy
midpalate brings the flavors seamlessly onto the lingering finish. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc.
—J.C.
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Peter Nicolay 2009 Riesling (Mosel); $16.
This crisp, easy-drinking entry-level Riesling
from the Peter Nicolay estate represents a good buy. It’s
plump, with a nice balance of sweet and tart ripe apples
and zesty limes that provide great refreshment value.
Imported by Miller Squared Inc. —J.C.
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Dr. Loosen 2009 Dr. L Riesling (Mosel); $12.
Dr. L has developed into the sort of consistent,
large-production wine consumers can depend on when
faced with an otherwise unknown array of wines. The
2009 is off dry, with crisp acidity, lime and pineapple
flavors and a mouthwatering finish. Drink it over the
next year or so. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. —J.C.
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blüfeld 2009 Medium Sweet Riesling
(Mosel); $11. Admirable quality from a largevolume producer, combining hints of honey, ripe apples
and crushed clover leaves. It’s on the weighty, sweet side,
but balanced by a fine vein of citrus on the finish. Drink
now. Imported by Constellation Brands, Inc. —J.C.
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Clean Slate 2009 Riesling (Mosel); $11.
Plump, sweet and creamy in texture, with apple
and citrus flavors that offer simple, straightforward
pleasure. Good quality, impressive for the 50,000 cases
produced. Imported by Winebow. —J.C.
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Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2009 Riesling
(Mosel); $10. A plump, juicy off-dry Riesling,
the 2009 from Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler represents
a solid value. Hints of diesel mark the nose, while the
peach and lime flavors play off one another nicely.
Nothing spectacular, just good everyday juice at an
excellent price. Imported by Miller Squared Inc. Best
Buy. —J.C.
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Louis Guntrum 2009 Riesling (Rheinhessen); $13. Round on the palate for a Riesling, with plumpness and sweetness to the midpalate
that’s balanced by hints of pink grapefruit and passion
fruit and a fresh, clean finish. Patio wine. Imported by
Broadbent Selections, Inc. —J.C.
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Starling Castle 2009 Riesling (Mosel); $10.
Plump, creamy and off dry, this is Riesling that’s
easy and approachable, with bright lime sherbet and
green apple notes. Drink now. Imported by Prestige
Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C.
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Würtz 2009 Potate! Riesling (Rheinhessen); $15. Fresh, zesty and on the dry side,
with notes of wet stone and citrus and a finish hinting at
green apples. Shows some heft, weighing in at 13% abv.
Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C.
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 Noble House
Riesling (Mosel); $12. The style at Dr. Pauly-
Bergweiler is often quite sweet, and the 2009 Noble
House is soft and succulent, marked by ripe apple and
peach flavors. Pleasant, if slightly lacking in zip.
Landshut 2009 Riesling (Mosel); $5. For
only $5, this wine offers lemonade-style refreshment with a kick. It’s simple, fruity and direct, with
apple and citrus notes that provide a sweet and sour
contrast to each other. Drink now. Imported by Prestige
Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C.
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GERMAN REDS
SPÄTBURGUNDER/
PINOT NOIR
Huber 2007 Wildenstein R Spätburgunder
Trocken (Baden); $96. Huber’s three R (for
Reserve) bottlings are all borderline excellent in 2007,
but this one gets the nod for its harmonious complexity
of herb, cherry, mushroom and coffee notes, and its
supple tannins, in fine balance with its medium body
and moderate acidity. Drink now–2020. Imported by
Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
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Huber 2007 Malterdinger Bienenberg R
Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden); $50. It’s
really splitting hairs when evaluating Huber’s 2007 R
bottlings. This one comes across as slighty reduced,
with some cabbage-like notes that require vigorous
swirling to dissipate. Yet it remains complex, with black
cherries and a slightly more muscular, tannic style than
Huber’s other ’07s. Drink 2013–2020. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
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Huber 2007 Bombacher Sommerhalde R
Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden); $59.
Toasty and dark-fruited, Huber’s 2007 Bombacher
Sommerhalde R falls somewhere between the Wildenstein and Malterdinger Bienenberg in style. It’s less
herbal and more powerful than the former, but not as
muscular as the latter. The tannins are still silky, yet
there’s great intensity, ending on a long, slightly charred
note. Drink 2012–2020. Imported by Valckenberg
International, Inc. —J.C.
89
Grafen Neipperg 2006 Neipperger Schlossberg Spätburgunder (Württemberg); $55.
This Pinot Noir from southern Germany balances
attractively between berry fruit and more savory notes
of cured meat, leather and wet stone. It’s medium bodied, with gentle, slightly dusty tannins and a mouthwatering finish. Drink it over the next 2–3 years. Imported
by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
88
Weingut Burg Ravensburg 2007 Noir Dry
(Baden); $19. This is a blend of 85% Pinot
Noir and 15% Lemberger—and yet the Lemberger is
the dominant grape. The color is dark, the aromas and
flavors are chunky and less nuanced than pure Pinot
Noir, and the tannins are ripe but lack the silky character of Pinot. It’s a solid, robust red that would make a
nice match for burgers and the like. Imported by USA
Wine Imports. —J.C.
88
Huber 2007 Alte Reben Spätburgunder
Trocken (Baden); $80. The biggest difference
between Huber’s R bottlings and this Alte Reben (old
vine) Pinot Noir is the crispness of this wine’s acids. It
still shows the complexity Huber builds in: an herbal
tinge to the cherry fruit, hints of mushroom and coffee,
it just comes across as a bit sharper and edgier. Drink
now–2015. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc.
—J.C.
87
Huber 2008 Malterdinger Pinot Noir
Trocken (Baden); $50. Huber’s entry-level
bottling comes across as somewhat conflicted in 2008,
with aromas of mushrooms and twigs, but flavors more
reminiscent of ripe cherries; plump and round in the
mouth, but crisply acidic, almost zingy on the finish.
87
Grafen Neipperg 2008 Spätburgunder
Trocken (Württemberg); $28. A pretty,
vibrant Pinot Noir from southern Germany, featuring
strawberry and raspberry fruit, some slightly herbal
nuances and a bright, lively finish. Drink now–2013.
86
Castell 2007 Reitsteig Spätburgunder
(Franken); $76. A meaty, mushroomy Pinot
Noir, this rather expensive bottling from Franken offers
decent complexity but lacks vibrancy. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
82
Castell 2008 Casteller Reitsteig Spätburgunder Trocken (Franken); $76. Slightly
feral, with baked fruit notes alongside hints of coffee
grounds. Disappointing; lacks freshness. Imported by
Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C.
81
BORDEAUX REDS
MÉDOC
Château Moulin de la Rose 2008 SaintJulien; $70. For full review see page 4. Cellar
Selection.
92
91
Château Béhèré Courtin 2008 Pauillac;
$68. For full review see page 5. Cellar Selec-
immensely attractive wine. It has black berry juice flavors while power comes from the dense tannins that
give shape to the fruit. Expect the wine to age well over
5–6 years. —R.V.
Château Fonréaud 2006 Listrac-Médoc;
$NA. Firm tannins mark this as a wine for
aging. At the same time, the sweet and ripe fruit gives
weight and richness. Wood flavors just creep in to
round out the tannins at the end. Keep for 7–8 years.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
90
Château de Villegeorge 2008 Haut-Médoc;
$30. Wood and solid fruit give the character of
this wine. It has a dense, tannic and dusty fruit texture.
Fruit flavors show a juicy black cherry character, underlined with licorice and tight acidity. —R.V.
89
89
89
Terre du Lion 2008 Saint-Julien; $16. For
full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
Château Haut-Maurac 2007 Médoc; $NA.
An attractively fruity wine, its tannins softened
with sweet black plum flavors. The acidity gives a lift
while the ripe feel of the wine gives it a broader base.
Touches of toast add further complexity. Imported by
North Berkeley Imports. —R.V.
Château Fourcas Dupré 2007 ListracMédoc; $NA. A little rough around the edges,
this wine still has some attractive black berry and damson flavors and shows acidity and a texture of dry tannins. For medium-term aging. Imported by Château
Fourcas-Dupré. —R.V.
88
Château Magnol 2008 Haut-Médoc; $20.
From Barton & Guestier’s own chateau, the
wine is a well-balanced spice- and berry fruit-flavored
wine. Its tannins fit with the fresh 2008 acidity and
lively, fruity character. Age for 2–3 years. Imported by
Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
88
Château Ségur de Cabanac 2008 SaintEstèphe; $65. Projecting firm tannins, this
wine has a big, powerful structure: black plum skins,
chewy currants and smoky wood flavors. It’s still young;
keep it for six years. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
88
tion.
Château Fourcas-Hosten 2005 ListracMédoc; $25. Still young, with its dry tannins,
this is a wine that has developed depth and concentration over the last 3-4 years. It has power, the berry fruits
driving through the structure to give a layered, attractive, serious finish. Imported by Wineberry America
LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
91
Château la Tour de Bessan 2008 Margaux;
$40. From one of the properties controlled by
Marie-Laure Lurton, this is a finely made wine. It revels in its structure, while around that there are ripe,
soft red berry fruits, spice and an intensely juicy acidity.
Full of charm, ready to age. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
91
90
Château du Plessis 2008 Moulis-en-Médoc;
$NA. Dense, slick and smooth, this is an
Château Fourcas-Hosten 2003 ListracMédoc; $25. The hot, overweight 2003 vintage
has not been kind to this licorice- and dark chocolateflavored wine. It is dry, firm, while still garishly rich. If
you have it, drink it now. Imported by Joanne Bordeaux
USA. —R.V.
87
Château Graves de Pez 2009 SaintEstèphe; $45. From a tiny, seven-acre property in Saint-Estèphe, this is a Cabernet
Sauvignon-dominated wine with black currant fruit and
good, firm fruit tannins. There is a smoky wood element to balance the lively, youthful acidity. Imported by
Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
87
Château Grand Tayac 2008 Margaux; $55.
From the north of the Margaux appellation, this
is a wine that has tense, acidic, black berry fruits, soft
86
THE WINE ENTHUSIAST
BUYING GUIDE
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new releases
and selected older wines evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. On a regular basis the
Buying Guide includes reports on special tastings and the
wines of specific producers. Regular contributors to our Buying
Guide include Senior Editor/ Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski,
Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Tasting Coordinator
Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa and
Contributing Editor Michael Schachner in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica
Larner in Rome, Contributing Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Reviewer Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. If a wine
was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear
following the note. When no initials appear, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note
reflect the input of all tasters.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine, its
suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price cannot be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting and
performed blind or in accordance with accepted industry practices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible,
wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent quality
at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price with
unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar
to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a wine must be stored to be enjoyed,
but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for
determining Best Buys, but they are generally priced at $15 or
less.
SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW
Wines should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via
winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to Tasting Coordinator Anna Lee C. Iijima at 914.345.9463 or email
[email protected]. There is no charge for submitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all wines
submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the
magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submission
form, which may be downloaded from our Web site.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Wineries and winery
representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels,
which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and
scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise
Valenza at 813.571.1122 ; fax 866.896.8786 ; or email
[email protected].
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
WineMag.com | 13
I
BUYING GUIDE
tannins and a light, juicy character. Not for long-term
aging. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
Barton & Guestier 2007 Thomas Barton
Réserve (Margaux); $30. A wine that offers
plenty of the charm of Margaux, with its soft tannins,
layers of chocolate, smooth texture and juicy fruit. The
wood at this stage is prominent, and needs to settle
down. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
85
There is structure, obvious aging potential as well as
ripe, sweet juicy Merlot fruit flavors. Age for 5–6 years.
Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
Château Carignan 2006 Prima (Premieres
Côtes de Bordeaux); $NA. A dark-colored
wine, smoky and toasty, perhaps too much. It has
weight, with shafts of fruit coming through the wood
dryness. The main wine of the château is better balanced than this special cuvée. Imported by Bordeaux
Wine Locators. —R.V.
89
Barton & Guestier 2008 Les Charmes de
Magnol (Médoc); $12. Confusingly, the wine
has no connection with Château Magnol, also owned by
Barton & Guestier. It’s a soft Médoc wine, light and
gentle in character, the tannins soft, merging with the
red berry fruits. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA.
—R.V.
89
Barton & Guestier 2008 Médoc; $12. Tight
wine, its black currant flavors layered with dry
tannins. It’s finely structured, although the stalky element tends to dominate. Not for aging. Imported by
89
85
85
Réserve (Médoc); $12. Smooth, open, fruity
wine, with good black berry flavors, rounded by wood.
The tannins offer a bite to go with the acidity. Age for a
year. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
85
RIGHT BANK
Château Grand Corbin 2008 Saint-Emilion;
$NA. A perfumed wine, balancing ripe fruit
with some firm, young tannins. That makes this a very
dry wine at this stage, needing time to develop. At present, the black currant fruit fits with a powerful core of
dryness. Give it 4–6 years. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
91
Château Jean-Faure 2006 Saint-Emilion;
$NA. A serious, complex wine, its tannins and
full fruit still young and headstrong. There is power
here, spice wood adding to the black cherry fruit and
complex acidity. For aging. Imported by North Berkeley Imports. —R.V.
91
Château Tour de Lagarde 2008 Saint-Emilion; $32. Wood integrates well with firm tannins in this delicious, ripe and juicy-fruity wine that
boasts attractive perfumes. There is density and concentration, a dry edge and ripe acidity. For aging.
Imported by Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
91
Château Carignan 2006 Premieres Côtes
de Bordeaux; $24. Always one of the leaders
in the Premières Côtes, Château Carignan has produced a ripely juicy 2006. It is a wine that brings considerable weight, the dark fruits melding into tannins. It
should age well over the next 5–6 years. Imported by
Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
90
V i e u x C h â t e a u d e s Te m p l i e r s 2 0 0 8
Pomerol; $56. This big, fruity black-colored
wine has ripe stone fruit flavors and firm, ripe tannins.
90
Château Grand Maison 2008 Cuvée Spéciale (Côtes de Bourg); $NA. Smoky, rich
wine, with the wood element present but not dominant. Black plum and sweet damson fruitiness surrounds soft tannins and balanced acidity. Imported by
Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V.
Château Haut Bertinerie 2008 Côtes de
Bordeaux; $NA. Haut-Bertinerie is part of the
Bertinerie estate in Blaye, producing wines that show
good depth of flavor. This 2008 adds richness, spice and
dark tannins to the mix, giving powerful berry fruits,
an edge of wood and fine acidity. Imported by Pierre
Courdurie Selections. —R.V.
Château Hyot 2009 Côtes de Bordeaux;
$19. A wine that shows its wood aging strongly
at this young stage. However, there is plenty of ripe
blackberry flavor to boost the fruity side of the wine.
The core is dry, surrounded by ripe fruits and a touch of
sweetness. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
89
89
88
Château Tertre de Viaud 2009 Côtes de
Bourg; $20. For full review see page 6.
rant along with a light, dry smoky and tannic character.
Imported by Saranty Imports. —R.V.
Château de Laville 2006 Premieres Côtes
de Bordeaux; $NA. Black currant and stalky
tannins, along with acidity, mark this attractive Bordeaux. It is dry, with some mineral austerity, lightly
woody. The fruit is now mature. —R.V.
86
Château Bertinerie 2008 Merlot-Cabernet
(Côtes de Bordeaux); $NA. A wine that is
firmly tannic, solid, chunky and dry with red fruits
buried behind the foursquare facade. Fruit flavors and
acidity come through more strongly at the end.
Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V.
85
Château Grand Maison 2008 Côtes de
Bourg; $NA. A dry, firm wine, with light fruits
and a perfumed smoky character. It is developing in a
dry, black currant, stalky style. Imported by Pierre
Courdurie Selections. —R.V.
85
Château Pimpine 2005 Bordeaux Côtes de
Francs; $NA. A curious, dirty nose doesn’t help
this wine. The palate is certainly better, its fruit now
mature, smooth, the acidity blending with attractive
smoky flavors. Imported by USA Wine Imports. —R.V.
85
Château Bertinerie 2007 Cru Réserve
(Côtes de Bordeaux); $NA. Tight and dry, a
wine that is on the lean side. It has some black currant
fruits, some smokiness, its tannins light. Drink now.
84
Château de l’Orangerie 2007 Grand Classique (Premieres Côtes de Bordeaux);
$NA. Tobacco aromas and tight tannins set the scene
for a wine that is light and fresh, with tangy berry fruits.
Imported by Global Wine Connections. —R.V.
83
Château de Fontenay 2005 Côtes de
Castillon; $NA. A ripe, smoky wine, full of
sweet black currant fruits and stalky tannins. The wine
is juicy, fruity, cut with acidity and with a dry core of
tight tannins. It shows the beginnings of maturity.
Imported by Cutting Edge Selections. —R.V.
83
Barton & Guestier 2009 Saint-Emilion; $15.
A rich, smoky wine, full of bitter chocolate flavors as well as plum jam. The tannins give structure to
this well-balanced wine, which will age over the next
1–2 years. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
82
87
Réserve (Saint-Emilion); $15. With good
density, this is a success for the vintage. It has ripe,
smooth fruit, flavors of black berry, the tannins well
integrated. Age for a year. Imported by Barton &
Guestier USA. —R.V.
87
Château Haut Ballet 2007 Fronsac; $NA. A
full, spicy wine, with weight from wood and
attractive fruits. There is a touch of stalkiness here, a
sign of the vintage, but the wine is maturing well in a
food-friendly way. Imported by North Berkeley
Imports. —R.V.
87
Château Tour Canon 2008 Canon-Fronsac;
$NA. Merlot-dominated wine, structured while
also ripe. The fruit flavors reveal prune and black cur-
87
Château du Vallier 2004 (Premieres Côtes
de Bordeaux); $25. Definitely on a downward
slope, this wine is very dry, the fruit gone and replaced
by tannins. Drink now. Imported by North American
Beverage Group. —R.V.
Château la Croix de St-Georges 2008
Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion; $NA. Tight,
lean, severe, this wine only has a hint of fruit. It is firm,
on the thin side, not a pleasure. Imported by Saranty
Imports. —R.V.
OTHER RED BORDEAUX
Château Brown 2007 Pessac-Léognan;
$NA. Tasted from magnum, the wine shows
youthful vigor, layers of wood and dark berry flavors. It
has the relative lightness of 2007, with a tight edge that
needs to smooth out. Give the wine in a 750ml bottle
another 5–6 years, a magnum up to 10 years. —R.V.
89
Château Sainte Barbe 2008 Bordeaux; $17.
With its strong wood aromas, this is a wine that
seems to have spent too much time in barrel. The
weight of black fruits does give it a chance to balance
87
out. Keep for 2–3 years. Imported by Pierre Courdurie
Selections. —R.V.
Abbaye de Saint-Ferme 2006 Les Vignes
du Soir (Bordeaux Supérieur); $NA. Rich
Bordeaux, with concentrated blackberry fruits and dry
tannins. There is a dry core and intense acidity. The
wine is ready to drink, but could mature for 1–2 years.
Imported by Acadia Imports. —R.V.
86
Château de Fontenille 2008 Bordeaux;
$12. Attractively fruity, with plenty of red berry
and black cherry flavors. Along with the fruit, the tannins and spice round out the texture, giving a final velvet feel. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections.
—R.V.
86
Château les Reuilles 2005 Bordeaux; $NA.
An attractive, ripe wine with acidity and black
currant fruits. This is a medium-bodied Bordeaux, the
dry core ripened with a rounded, soft texture. Imported
by Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V.
85
edging on stalky, its black berry flavors mixed with acidity and dry tannins. Imported by Pierre Courdurie
Selections. —R.V.
complexity of previous vintages. Honey, peach and
pineapple flavors offer fruitiness. Imported by Barton
& Guestier USA. —R.V.
BORDEAUX WHITES
LOIRE VALLEY REDS
DRY WHITES
CHINON
Château Haut Bertinerie 2009 Côtes de
Bordeaux; $NA. Wood-aged wine that brings
out layers of toast over the ripe peach and grapefruit
fruit flavors. It is rich, full-in-the-mouth, spice and fruit
given a good lift from acidity. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V.
94
90
Château Bertinerie 2008 Cru Réserve
(Côtes de Bordeaux); $NA. Still very herbaceous, this Sauvignon Blanc-dominated wine is ripe,
full of melon and peach flavors, with an attractive zesty
character. There’s enough structure for 2–3 years’ aging.
88
85
Château Monroze 2008 Bordeaux
Supérieur; $NA. A soft, open wine, kept
together by its dry tannins. Good black fruits, fresh
acidity and an attractive smoky character. Imported by
Saranty Imports. —R.V.
87
Château Roc de Minvielle 2009 Bordeaux;
$NA. Ample Bordeaux, with the tannins softened and rounded. Flavors are of black plums, with
some stalkiness and light acidity. Drink soon —R.V.
87
85
Château Saint-Michel 2008 Bordeaux
Supérieur; $18. Close to Fronsac, this is a
Merlot-dominated wine that has soft, ripe fruit. It
shows sweetness and open berry flavors touched by
chocolate and licorice. To be opened over the next
2–3 years. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
85
Barton & Guestier 2008 Bordeaux; $10.
This wood-laden wine has light berry fruit and
burnt toast flavors. The acidity cuts through, offering a
glimpse of stalky black currant flavors. Imported by
84
Château Bellevue 2009 Bordeaux; $NA. On
the lean side for a 2009 Bordeaux, this brings
out a dry, tannic character, just softened with sweet
black currant juice. There is stalky acidity on the finish.
Imported by Saranty Imports. —R.V.
84
Château Denisiane 2009 Bordeaux; $16.
Soft, light fruit, packed with red cherries and
fresh berries, is the star. The tannins are a mere hint, so
the wine should be enjoyed soon for its attractive juiciness. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
84
Château la Fontaine de Genin 2009 Bordeaux; $NA. Stalky, dry, with attractive black
currant fruits and a light tannin character. Showing little
sign of its potential richness. —R.V.
84
Château Sainte Barbe 2008 Merlot (Bordeaux); $13. Berry fruits and dense red jelly
flavors are the hallmark of this wine. It is full, although
84
Réserve (Graves); $15. With its layers of
wood, the wine has weight. Herbaceous characters are
mixed with ripe pear flavors. There is a good, tight final
texture. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
Bernard Baudry 2008 La Croix Boisée (Chinon); $NA. With a touch of initial mineral austerity, this still-young wine offers tannins and a solid
structure as well as black cherry and dark plum fruits.
Beautifully balanced, it will develop slowly, leaving its
minerality and rounding out. Imported by Kermit
Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Charles Joguet 2009 Clos de la Dioterie
(Chinon); $NA. A beautiful wine, from a cool
northeast-facing vineyard, this is rich, ripe and smoothly
concentrated. It has ripeness, power, while retaining
elegance. Expect to age this for six and more years.
Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
93
Bernard Baudry 2009 Les Grézeaux (Chinon); $NA. Old vines, at least 60 years old, are
the basis for this soft, wood-aged wine. The texture is
smooth, with rounded tannins and density. Flavors
include licorice, bittersweet chocolate and black cherries. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.
92
Château Bonnet 2008 Bordeaux Blanc;
$NA. A crisp, clean, fruity wine, tangy and
lemony. This is a really attractive wine, a classic of its
kind. Screwcap. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons.
—R.V.
92
Château Sainte Marie 2009 Vieilles Vignes
(Entre-Deux-Mers); $NA. A lightly perfumed
white Bordeaux, with warm ripe fruit, soft acidity an
an herbaceous edge. Grapefruit and gooseberry flavors
are laced with a more honeyed character. Imported by
Vanguard Wines. —R.V.
91
87
Château Bertinerie 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Côtes de Bordeaux); $NA. Lightly herbaceous, this is a soft, open, easy wine for summer drinking. Attractive grapefruit, green apple and orange zest
mix easily together. Imported by Pierre Courdurie
Selections. —R.V.
86
Barton & Guestier 2009 Bordeaux Blanc;
$10. Fresh as well as ripe, with layers of toast,
creamy pear and red apple flavors. Attractively spicy,
ready to drink. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA.
—R.V.
84
SWEET WHITES
Barton & Guestier 2008 Sauternes; $25.
Ripe botrytis, honey and peaches make for an
attractive, open, ready-to-drink sweet wine. The acidity
keeps the richness in check. Imported by Barton &
85
Réserve (Sauternes); $25. The wine is still
very young, revealing sweetness rather than the botrytis
84
Charles Joguet 2009 Clos du Chêne Vert
(Chinon); $NA. This is firmly, tannic, the product of oak cask fermentation as well as aging. The tannins promise long aging, while the ripe black jelly fruit
character brings out the richness of the vintage.
Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.
Charles Joguet 2009 Les Varennes du
Grand Clos (Chinon); $NA. This is a lovely,
ripe wine, its plum character very evident. It has a cool
character as well, the acidity pushing through. Aged in
wood (not new), the wine has a polished feel on the finish. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.
Bernard Baudry 2009 Le Clos Guillot (Chinon); $NA. A softly rounded wine, its red berry
fruits well integrated into the ripe tannins. It is fruity,
very forward, reveling in its rich charms. Imported by
Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.
90
Charles Joguet 2009 Les Charmes (Chinon); $NA. A new cuvée (this is the second
vintage) from Domaine Charles Joguet, the wine has
tannins as well as a strongly mineral character. The
structure is tight, needing aging. Imported by Kermit
Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.
90
Bernard Baudry 2009 Cuvée Domaine
(Chinon); $NA. There are tight tannins to go
with the fresh acidity in this very mineral wine. Raspberry and red cherry fruits combine with a smoky note.
89
89
Charles Joguet 2009 Cuvée de la Cure
(Chinon); $NA. Smooth fruit, the tannins softWineMag.com | 15
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BUYING GUIDE
Charles Joguet 2010 Rosé (Chinon); $NA.
Enticing acidity, with fresh raspberry fruit, bright
in style, just touched by dried sultanas. Drink now.
ened by wood aging. That gives some richness as well
as a chunky, ripe character of red plums, licorice and
final acidity. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.
86
Bernard Baudry 2009 Les Granges (Chinon); $NA. The wine has good acidity, with
fresh strawberry fruits and attractive, light tannins. For
early drinking. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.
86
88
Charles Joguet 2009 Les Petites Roches
(Chinon); $NA. Structured wine, made from
young vines, with minerality as well as intense fruit flavors. Firm tannins underlie red plum fruitiness.
87
Charles Joguet 2009 Cuvée Terroir (Chinon); $NA. Attractive, fruity wine, with good
tannins as well as stalky black currant fruit flavors. Its
ripeness is a sign of the warm vintage. Imported by
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SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY
Château du Hureau 2009 A Chaux
(Saumur-Champigny); $NA. Ripeness, black
currant jelly flavors and spice mark this concentrated
wine, which has a smoky character on the finish.
Imported by Polaner Selections. —R.V.
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Domaine des Roches Neuves 2010
(Saumur-Champigny); $18. Obviously young,
but with good acidity as well as bright red fruit flavors.
The wine’s acidity balances the juicy fruits well. Its
structure suggests a good few years’ aging. Imported
by VOS Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
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Domaine Filliatreau 2008 Vieilles Vignes
(Saumur-Champigny); $NA. Shows smooth
fruit, with the acidity finely molded into a structure of
juicy black berry fruits. There is zesty, spicy acidity on the
finish. Imported by Louis Dressner Selections. —R.V.
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Château de Villeneuve 2009 SaumurChampigny; $NA. Tight acidity layers a wine
that has freshness and a stalky character. Flavors of currants and acidity highlight its light fruitiness. Imported
by Vintner Select. —R.V.
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OTHER LOIRE REDS/ROSÉS
Fournier Père et Fils 2009 Les Belles
Vignes Rosé (Sancerre); $26. The crispness
and acidity are very evident in this bright, fresh, strawberry-flavored wine. Drink soon for its delicious liveliness. Imported by David Milligan Selections. —R.V.
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Xavier Flouret 2008 Rouge Noir (MenetouSalon); $23. Domaine de Chatenoy, in the
same family for 15 generations, has produced this rich,
full-flavored wine, packed with sweet strawberry and
smooth tannins. It could age, but is ready to drink now.
Imported by Cognac One, LLC. —R.V.
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Vignes (Sancerre); $26. An attractive, soft
wine, with a chewy, juicy character. It shows red fruits,
a touch of licorice and acidity. The wine is now mature.
Drink this year. Imported by David Milligan Selections.
—R.V.
Barton & Guestier 2009 Rosé d’Anjou; $10.
Soft, sweet rosé, with a caramel and sugared
strawberry character. A light wine for those who want
less alcohol than is found in a white Zinfandel.
Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
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LOIRE VALLEY WHITES
VOUVRAY
Domaine Huët 2009 Cuvée Constance
(Vouvray); $159/500 ml. Even more concentrated than Huët’s superb 2009 Première Trie, this is
outstanding. It has both great concentration and elegance. The wine is touched by botrytis, while retaining
freshness. Made from ripe, just shrivelling grapes, this
is sweet Vouvray at its magnificent best. Imported by
Rare Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
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Domaine Huët 2010 Le Mont Première Trie
Moelleux (Vouvray); $69. This will be a wonderful wine. Already, it is fine, with lovely acidity, bright
and richly sweet at the same time. Yellow fruits mingle
with honey, pear, almonds and the intense sweetness
of botrytis. Imported by Rare Wine Company. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
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Domaine Huët 2009 Clos du Bourg Première Trie Moelleux (Vouvray); $69. A
majestic, magisterial wine, powered by superripe fruit
as well as honey and a gorgeous ripeness. With years
ahead of it, this will be superb. Imported by Rare Wine
Company. —R.V.
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Domaine Huët 2006 Clos du Bourg Première Trie Moelleux (Vouvray); $75. Première Trie means a wine from the first selection of
grapes during harvest. This wine, now firmly closed up,
as is expected with Chenin Blanc, is headed towards an
opulent future, even though the fruit is kept firmly in
check by the long-term aging potential. Imported by
Rare Wine Company. —R.V.
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Domaine Huët 2009 Clos du Bourg
Moelleux (Vouvray); $49. A wine that just
hints at its enormous future. It is opulent, rich,
rounded, full of quince, spice, layers of honey and apricots. It is gorgeous without losing any freshness. Keep
for seven years. Imported by Rare Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
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Domaine Huët 2008 Le Haut-Lieu DemiSec (Vouvray); $35. Exuberant wine, almost
exotic in its flavors, with ripe currant and a lining of
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honey. Full in the mouth, intense and concentrated.
Imported by Rare Wine Company. —R.V.
Domaine Huët 2010 Le Mont Sec (Vouvray); $30. Very pure in character, a wine that
expresses the chalk terroir. Minerality and complexities
of bright acidity, flavors of pear juice and grapefruit
presage a final hint of honey. Imported by Rare Wine
Company. —R.V.
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Domaine Huët 2010 Clos du Bourg DemiSec (Vouvray); $35. A tightly delineated wine,
ripe, but with a great swathe of tangy balancing acidity.
The structure shows the immense possibility of aging in
a wine that is not yet getting into its stride. Imported by
Rare Wine Company. —R.V.
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Domaine Huët 2010 Clos du Bourg Sec
(Vouvray); $30. A wine with a very mineral
character, some weight, very lively acidity, rounded out
with spice and pear. This is for long-term aging, over
five years and more. Imported by Rare Wine Company.
—R.V.
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Domaine Huët 2010 Le Haut-Lieu Sec
(Vouvray); $28. Classic. Beautiful acidity is
balanced by just a touch of sweetness. The wine is
bright with apple and lime flavors. Imported by Rare
Wine Company. —R.V.
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Domaine Huët 2005 Pétillant (Vouvray);
$30. A fine, clean and intense sparkling wine,
with excellent acidity and bright lemon and apple notes
Imported by Rare Wine Company. —R.V.
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Barton & Guestier 2009 Vouvray; $10.
Medium-sweet wine, the acidity of the Chenin
Blanc balanced by a floral, aromatic character. Sweet
nuts, ripe pear and a taste of orange zest supply the fruit
interest. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
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SAVENNIÈRES
Domaine aux Moines 2009 SavennièresRoche-Aux-Moines; $NA. Nutty in style, this
classic wine shows the true intensity of dry Chenin
Blanc. It’s a wine with weight, concentration, toast,
spice and an overpowering lemon and honey character. For long-term aging. Imported by SherryLehmann. —R.V.
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Domaine des Baumard 2007 Clos du Papillon (Savennières); $NA. A very spicy wine,
layering honey and lychees. Opulent, ripe, wearing its
richness on its sleeve. Probably for medium-term aging,
but it could well surprise. Screwcap. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V.
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Château d’Epire 2009 Cuvée Spéciale
(Savennières); $NA. A wine that combines the
richness of the vintage with the extreme flinty texture of
young, dry Chenin Blanc. Packed with ripe acidity, it is
pure, very crisp, yet for aging. Imported by Kermit
Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.
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Domaine des Baumard 2006 Clos de SaintYves (Savennières); $NA. A wine of great
style and elegance, delivering spice and creaminess as
well as ripe quince and pear fruit. Almond flavors signal
that the wine is approaching maturity. Screwcap.
Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V.
92
Domaine des Baumard 2007 Clos de SaintYves (Savennières); $NA. A finely crafted
wine, its tight acidity generating a very fresh profile.
There is an intensity of fruit as well as a mineral texture.
For aging. Screwcap Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V.
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Château de Varennes 2007 Savennières;
$NA. A concentrated wine, its pear and lemon
character segueing into a tight, wound-up structure,
very dry, very crisp. Imported by 57 Main Street Wine
Co. —R.V.
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OTHER LOIRE CHENINS
Domaine des Baumard 2008 Quarts de
Chaume; $NA. With so much intensity, botrytis and concentration, this is going to be impressive. It is
still very young, at a closed stage, but the ripe currant as
well as the honey dominate. Great wine. Imported by
Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
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Domaine des Baumard 2009 Carte d’Or
(Coteaux du Layon); $NA. A wine that contrasts extreme sweetness with freshness. It has beautiful
acidity as well as a great swathe of sweet peach and
orange laced with honeyed cream. Imported by Vintus
LLC. —R.V.
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Domaine des Baumard 2008 Clos de
Sainte-Catherine (Coteaux du Layon); $NA.
So much freshness here to go with the sweetness, a wine
of delicious intensity further enlivened by apple and
cream acidity. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V.
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Domaine des Baumard 2006 La Calèche
Chenin Blanc-Chardonnay (Vin de Pays du
Jardin de la France); $NA. With its few years’ aging,
the wine exhibits a Chenin Blanc nutty quality backed
by the greater weight of Chardonnay. Full-bodied, ready
to drink. Screwcap. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V.
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SANCERRE
Henri Bourgeois 2008 Jadis (Sancerre);
$NA. Very rich style of wine from 50-year-old
vines. It is smooth, opulent almost, packed with pure
pink grapefruit along with an herbal, grassy character.
Concentration is the hallmark of this fine wine.
Imported by Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
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Henri Bourgeois 2009 Le M.D. de Bourgeois (Sancerre); $NA. This is great Sancerre
from the Monts Damnés vineyard. It shows all the right
varietal character, stylized by initial austerity, flint and a
dense texture. Gradually it opens up to show a balance
of acidity and richness. Imported by Ideal Wine and
Spirits Co. Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
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Henri Bourgeois 2008 Sancerre d’Antan
(Sancerre); $NA. Unfined, unfiltered, wood
aged, this wine was created as a tribute to old-style
Sancerre. With its intensity and definite wood aging
character, it is certainly different. It retains the green
fruit character of pure Sauvignon Blanc while offering a
more oxidative richness. Imported by Ideal Wine and
Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V.
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Henri Bourgeois 2008 La Bourgeoise
(Sancerre); $NA. Made from old vines and
partially fermented in wood, this is a complex wine,
offering plenty of pure white fruits. It is very precise in
character, crisp, tangy, the edge of wood just a hint.
Imported by Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V.
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Henri Bourgeois 2009 Les Baronnes
(Sancerre); $NA. A pure mineral wine,
extremely fresh and bright with acidity, all the way to the
finish. It’s packed with herbs and gooseberry fruit flavors. Imported by Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V.
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Vignes (Sancerre); $26. Soft and ripe, the
normal herbaceous character rounded out with pear
and peach fruits. Sure, there is a tang, a kick to the
wine, with acidity. But it is the ripeness that dominates.
Imported by David Milligan Selections. —R.V.
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POUILLY-FUMÉ
delicious. Imported by David Milligan Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
MUSCADET
Château du Coing de Saint-Fiacre 2005
Comte de Saint-Hubert Sur Lie (Muscadet
Sèvre et Maine); $NA. With attractive maturity,
touches of lemon, pear and pink grapefruit and a ripe
finish, this wine proves the aging potential of top Muscadet. Imported by Williams Corner Wine. —R.V.
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Gadais Père et Fils 2009 Vieilles Vignes Sur
Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine); $NA. Concentrated and very full in the mouth, the wine’s acidity
is tight, wrapped around lemon and grapefruit characters. Good depth of flavor in this intense wine.
Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections. —R.V.
90
Château du Coing de Saint-Fiacre 2008 Sur
Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine); $NA. With
its fine concentration and light acidity, this scores with
its lovely apple fruit, touched with grapefruit. Very
fresh, ready to drink. Imported by Williams Corner
Wine. —R.V.
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Gadais Père et Fils 2009 La Grande
Réserve du Moulin Sur Lie (Muscadet
Sèvre et Maine); $NA. This has some weight as well
as acidity, showing just a touch of prickle on the tongue.
Zesty and tangy. Imported by Robert Chadderdon
Selections. —R.V.
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Guy Saget 2009 Le Domaine Saget
(Pouilly-Fumé); $35. Perfumed, rounded
wine, packed with fruit, its ripe flavor given point with
kiwi fruit acidity. There is a light spiciness that adds to
the complexity. Age for 3-4 years. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V.
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Henri Bourgeois 2009 La Demoiselle de
Bourgeois (Pouilly-Fumé); $NA. Rich style
of wine, its lime and mineral character enveloped by
the ripe peach flavors. It’s a beautiful wine, forward and
ready to drink over the next year. Imported by Ideal
Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V.
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Fournier Père et Fils 2009 Les Deux Cailloux (Pouilly-Fumé); $27. Cailloux means
flinty stone, and this wine certainly has a mineral character, its fruit tang still young. It has a tight structure,
crisp, herbal and concentrated. Imported by David Milligan Selections. —R.V.
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H e n r i B o u r g e o i s 2 0 0 9 E n Tr a v e r t i n
(Pouilly-Fumé); $NA. Very intense herbal
wine, full-bodied, with hints of mineral and a very forward grapefruit and lime fruit character. Imported by
Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V.
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OTHER LOIRE
SAUVIGNON BLANC
Four nier Père et Fils 2009 Côtes de
Morogues (Menetou-Salon); $22. Particularly intense on the herbaceous front, the wine shows
rich grapefruit and lemon zest flavors. Long, deep and
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Château du Coing de Saint-Fiacre 2009
Coing de Sèvre Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre
et Maine); $NA. An intensely fresh wine, touched
lightly by spritz that brings out the lemon character.
The acidity lifts the whole wine deliciously Imported by
Williams Corner Wine. —R.V.
Gadais Père et Fils 2010 Emotions (Muscadet); $NA. Bright young wine, with an
attractive lemon character, very fresh and crisp. Simple
Muscadet for the summer. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections. —R.V.
Guy Saget 2009 Les Clissages d’Or (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine); $16. With an extra
richness from the vintage, this is a ripe, if still crisp
wine. Its grapefruit acidity is tempered by ripe apple
and melon flavors. Imported by Pasternak Wine
Imports. —R.V.
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LOIRE SPARKLING WINES
Domaine des Baumard 2006 Tirage (Crémant de Loire); $NA. A deliciously crisp wine,
its fruit packed with citrus and lemon peel, a style that
is as fresh as possible. As well as its soft, creamy
mousse, this wine has depth of flavor and potential
aging ability. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V.
91
Domaine des Baumard NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de Loire); $NA. Made only from freerun juice, this is a light, intensely fresh style of rosé. It
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BUYING GUIDE
just hints at the raspberry, red berry and green apple
flavors. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V.
ROSÉS
Domaine des Baumard NV Carte Turquoise
(Crémant de Loire); $NA. This is Baumard’s
entry-level sparkling wine, with ripe, soft fruit, a creamy
texture with some attractive weight and flavors of
apples and pears. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V.
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OTHER FRANCE
83
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REDS
Producteurs Plaimont 2007 Château SaintGo (Saint-Mont); $NA. Attractively powerful
wine, its tannins buried within dense berry fruits. There
is a positive rough edge to the wine, the stalky fruit
character smoothed by wood. Made in the cellars of
the château by the Producteurs Plaimont winemaking
team. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
89
Barton & Guestier 2009 Beaujolais-Villages; $10. With firm tannins, rich berry fruits
and more typical red cherry flavors, this has weight and
a ripe juicy core. It’s ready to drink, but could be kept
for another year. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA.
Best Buy. —R.V.
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Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Cuvée la Réserve
Malbec (Vin de France); $NA. Very fruity
aromas, powered by black berry fruits. The palate is
soft, ripe and fruity with black fruits and sweet tannins.
The wine is supple, accessible. Screwcap. Imported by
Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V.
85
Barton & Guestier 2009 Beaujolais; $10.
Light red cherry-flavored wine from a fine year
for Beaujolais. The wine is all juicy fruit, rounded tannins and light, smoky acidity. Imported by Barton &
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Cédric Vincent 2006 Beaujolais; $NA. Still
fresh, with bitter cherry flavors, acidity and light
tannins. A lightweight, deliciously fresh wine. Imported
by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.
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Domaine de Pellehaut 2008 Harmonie de
Gascogne (Vin de Pays des Côtes de
Gascogne); $NA. Lightweight red from Gascony, with
a touch of tannin, red berry fruits and crisp acidity. A
red wine with an attractive bite. Imported by Heidelberg Distribution. —R.V.
84
Marcel Lapierre 2009 Raisins Gaulois (Vin
de Table Francais); $NA. A Gamay-based
wine from one of the leading Morgon producers. Soft
tannins, red cherry flavors and a touch of banana are
enlivened by fine acidity on the finish. Imported by
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Barton & Guestier 2009 Bistro Pinot Noir
(Vin de Pays de l’Ile de Beaute); $8.
Unoaked Pinot Noir from Corsica, showing ripe berry
flavors, fresh acidity and only light tannins. It’s what it
says on the label: for casual drinking. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
83
Domaine de Granajolo 2009 Rosé (Corse
Porto Vecchio); $NA. Fresh and soft, with
bright strawberry flavors and a delicious texture of red
currants. Lively acidity gives the wine a great send-off.
Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V.
Barton & Guestier 2009 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence); $10. With some richness, this is a
drink-now rosé. The initial fresh fruit has diminished,
leaving a rounded, caramel-flavored wine without acidity. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
WHITES
Domaine des Baumard NV Vert de l’Or
Verdelho (Vin de France); $NA. A small parcel of Verdelho, planted originally in the 19th century
and never officially recognized. The wine has a beautiful botrytis character, marked by pure acidity, lemon
and honey and great final freshness. Screwcap.
Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V.
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Barton & Guestier 2009 Pouilly-Fuissé;
$20. With a hint of minerality, this wine has
structure to go with its soft, generous fruit. There are
almonds, toast, peaches and an attractive rounded texture. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
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Barton & Guestier 2010 Réserve Sauvignon Blanc (Cotes de Gascogne); $8. For
full review see page 9. Best Buy.
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Domaine de Ballade 2009 Sauvignon
Blanc-Colombard (Vin de Pays des Côtes
de Gascogne); $11. For full review see page 9. Best
Buy.
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Domaine de la Feuillarde 2008 MâconPrissé; $NA. A ripe, buttery style of wine, with
yellow fruit, toast and a ripe, almost honeyed character.
The finish displays some light, zesty acidity. Imported
by Vintner Select. —R.V.
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D o m a i n e d e P a j o t 2 0 0 9 L e s Q u a t re
Cépages (V in de Pays des Côtes de
Gascogne); $NA. A very perfumed wine, with white
flower aromas, flavors of herbs and spice. It has weight
as well as acidity, a tangy structured edge. Screwcap.
Imported by Vanguard Wines. —R.V.
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Producteurs Plaimont 2010 Colombelle
(Cotes de Gascogne); $9. Fresh, crisp, herbaceous, and with an attractive perfumed character, this is
a great value from southwest France. Acidity finishes
this fine apéritif wine. Screwcap. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V.
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Domaine de Granajolo 2009 Blanc (Corse
Porto Vecchio); $NA. Spices, a hint of honey,
a texture of pears and white plums—this is a rich, soft
wine with a good intensity of taste and ripeness
Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V.
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Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Villa Beaurivage
(Vin de France); $9. A blend of typical Gascon
grapes gives a lemon and citrus wine, very fresh, tangy.
There is plenty of acidity and an attractive lightness.
Screwcap. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections.
Best Buy. —R.V.
85
Pierre Boniface 2009 Les Rocailles (Apremont); $NA. Just touched by honey and with a
light spritz, this is a crisp, lemon and lime zest-flavored
wine. It has great acidity with a yeasty character.
Imported by Hand Picked Selections. —R.V.
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Barton & Guestier 2009 Chardonnay
(Mâcon-Villages); $10. Soft, lightly creamy
Chardonnay, pleasantly fruity, offering some apple and
pear flavors along with gentle acidity. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
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SPARKLING WINES
Barton & Guestier NV Cuvée Réservée
Brut Chardonnay (Vin Mousseux); $10. An
attractive wine. The Chardonnay is fresh, lightly mineral, with flavors of red apples, lemon zest and crisp
acidity. A great party wine. Imported by Barton &
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Barton & Guestier NV Cuvée Réservée
Rosé (Vin Mousseux); $10. Gentle, creamy,
raspberry-flavored wine, its fruit ripe and easy. There is
freshness as well as clean acidity, along with some sweetness. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
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GREEK REDS
BLENDED REDS
Alpha Estate 2007 Alpha One (Florina);
$75. This Greek red blend has an appealing,
pretty nose of plum, blackberry and cherry, followed
by deep, full-bodied black fruit and spice flavors. Good
acidity and round tannins add to its poise. An elegant
wine that will appeal to most fans of bigger reds.
Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
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Alpha Estate 2007 Red (Florina); $36. Black
cherry, vanilla and cedar on the nose of this confident blend are followed by refreshing, spicy flavors of
plum, blackberry, cinnamon and cedar. This wine has a
kick to it but the fruit’s deep softness balances it out. A
go-to red with true class. Imported by Diamond
Importers Inc. —S.K.
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Evangelo 2006 Red (Epanomi); $79. Smoke,
cinnamon, cherry and strawberry aromas start
this impressive blend with style. On the palate, cinnamon, tobacco and black cherry flavors are balanced
with a clean acidity and a touch of sweet spice. Overall,
an integrated red with focus. Imported by Cava
Spiliadis. —S.K.
88
Skouras NV Labyrinth 9905 Megas Oenos
(Peloponnese); $150. Smoked sausage, red
currant and spice on the nose are followed by a rustic
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beefy, allspice quality on the palate. Black pepper, cedar
and smoke mingle in an overall elegant but assertive
medium-bodied red. A dry finish tops it off. Imported
by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
Alpha Estate 2007 Axia Syrah-Xinomavro
(Florina); $20. Plum, blackberry and earthy
mushroom aromas lead here, followed by soft, balanced
flavors of violet, plum and tobacco. Mellow and soulful,
this wine will pair well with almost any meat-based dish.
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Skouras 2007 Megas Oenos (Peloponnese); $NA. Anise, black cherry and allspice
aromas give this Cabernet/Agiorgitiko blend a sultry
start. On the palate, flavors of smoke, cedar, cherry and
spice are integrated and smooth. A wine with panache
and indigenous character. Imported by Diamond
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Estate Biblia Chora 2005 Ovilos (Pangeon);
$55. Rustic, with a spin of smoke, this red has a
nose of green herbs, black cherry and smoke, and flavors of dried herb, red berry and tobacco. Masculine
and focused, it’s perfect for spicy meat dishes and stews.
Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
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Estate Biblia Chora 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Pangeon); $35. This dependable blend offers vanilla, cedar and tobacco on the nose
and sweet cigarbox, cherry and pepper flavors. Vibrant
but balanced, it’s a great go-to red that will pair well with
pastas, pizza, steak. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
85
Alpha Estate 2008 Red (Florina); $36. This
red blend starts with aromas of cola, red berry
and spice, followed by a refreshing blend of cherry,
cedar and minerals. A spicy finish gives it a spirited end.
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Elios 2007 Mediterranean Red (Peloponnese); $13. Tobacco, black pepper and allspice
lead this accessible red blend from Elios. On the palate,
cheerful red berry and raspberry flavors are both
smooth and friendly, with a touch of tobacco spice to
add kick. Pair with grilled lamb, pizza. Imported by
Terlato Wines International. —S.K.
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Skouras 2006 Synoro (Peloponnese); $28.
Smoked sausage, raspberry and cherry spice
start this exuberant red blend. The wine has an overall
spicy character and a bigger, open style. Easy drinking
and fun, pair it with grilled ribs or duck. Imported by
Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
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AGIORGITIKO
Estate Biblia Chora 2007 Areti Agiorgitiko
(Pangeon); $29. This red has a native spin that
gives it extra, exotic appeal. Pepper, mint and cherry
on the nose are followed by flavors of tobacco, spicebox
and red berry flavors. Lively, with a cheerful berry finish, it will pair well with lamb, pasta. Imported by Cava
Spiliadis. —S.K.
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Skouras 2008 Saint George Agiorgitiko
(Nemea); $14. Black cherry and cinnamon on
the nose lead into spicy red berry and coca flavors. This
is a clean, easy-drinking red that will pair well with
lighter dishes like poultry and ham. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
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Skouras 2007 Grande Cuvée Agiorgitiko
(Nemea); $26. Black cherry, pepper and
smoked meat on the nose are followed by flavors of
smoked cherry, vanilla and pepper on the palate.
Focused, with a spin of minerality on the finish, this is a
versatile food wine. Imported by Diamond Importers
Inc. —S.K.
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A. Parparoussis 2004 Réserve (Nemea);
$50. This reserve Agiorgitiko starts with robust
aromas of BBQ, spice and
cigarbox, leading into
equally masculine flavors of pipe smoke, red cherry and
tea. The wine has a young quality to it, but will be tempered with dishes that have some weight, like lamb or
beef. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
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XINOMAVRO
Alpha Estate 2008 Hedgehog Vineyard
Xinomavro (Amyndeon); $24. This cheerful
wine starts with a bright cherry and vanilla nose, followed by flavors of raspberry, strawberry, vanilla and
smoke. Integrated and easy-drinking, it’s a good go-to
wine for everything from pizza to a more serious steak
entrée. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
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Alpha Estate 2007 Reserve Vieilles Vignes
Xinomavro (Amyndeon); $38. A stately nose
of black cherry, cocoa powder, black pepper and vanilla
lead this impressive red from Amyndeon. On the
palate, balanced elements of tobacco, cherry, black pepper and spice are both assertive and elegant. Integrated
but with some power, this wine can age or be enjoyed
now. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
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will benefit from decanting and could use some time in
the cellar. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
Domaine Gerovassiliou 2006 Syrah
(Epanomi); $NA. This full-bodied red gives
sexy aromas of dark chocolate, cherry, vanilla and cedar,
followed by equally deep flavors of cocoa, black fruit,
plum and black pepper. Smooth but sturdy, it will pair
well with steaks, stews and earthier fare. Imported by
Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
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Estate Biblia Chora 2006 Merlot (Pangeon); $35. Chocolate-covered cherry and
vanilla aromas are an alluring start to this sultry Merlot.
On the palate, soft, integrated waves of black cherry,
vanilla and balsamic are followed by a clean berry finish. A mellow sip with class. Imported by Cava Spiliadis.
—S.K.
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ROSÉ WINE
Skouras 2010 Zoë Rosé (Peloponnese);
$12. Bright strawberry and cherry aromas are
followed by a fruit cup of tropical fruit, cherry and
strawberry. Easy-drinking but on the sweet side, this
will pair well with fruit or spicy dishes. Imported by
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GREEK WHITES
BLENDED WHITES
Estate Biblia Chora 2009 White (Pangeon);
$23. Zippy citrus, lemon and a touch of tropical
fruit on the nose and palate characterize this stylish
white blend. A spin of sea salt minerality keeps the
whole package light on the tongue. A balanced, elegant
white that will pair well with grilled fish, fruit, poultry.
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Estate Biblia Chora 2009 Ovilos (Pangeon);
$38. The exotic, slightly sweaty nose of this
Sémillon-Assyrtiko blend mean it’s going to stand out,
and the rich, creamy tropical fruit flavors on the palate
confirm it. A little heavy and slightly showy, the wine
still has a great texture and an appealing spicy wood
finish. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
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Alpha Estate 2008 Reserve Vieilles Vignes
Xinomavro (Amyndeon); $38. Hearty aromas of tobacco, mint, strawberry and spice lead this
ageable red from Alpha Estate. Slightly rustic overall
but with appealing flavors of red berry, cherry, tobacco
and cocoa, and a clean, spicy finish. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
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Alpha Estate 2007 Hedgehog Vineyard
Xinomavro (Amyndeon); $36. The nose on
this red starts with a slightly medicinal cherry cola nose,
and a touch of smoked meat. On the palate, cherry, red
berry and cigarbox flavors are carried by a lively acidity.
Fresh and balanced, it will pair well with grilled meats,
stews. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
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OTHER REDS
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Alpha Estate 2007 Utopia Tannat (Florina);
$21. Blackberry, cocoa, pepper and a touch of
herbs on the nose give this hearty red some muscle.
The flavors of cocoa powder, slate, spicebox and cherry
are clean and easy-drinking. Food-friendly, the wine
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A. Parparoussis 2007 Les Dons de Dionysos
Barrel Fermented White (Achaia); $25. This
barrel-fermented Athiri-Assyrtiko blend starts with a
wave of spice, mint and citrus aromas, leading into flavors of sea salt, lemon and spice. Though not entirely
balanced, it’s versatile; pair with meat, fish or cheese.
Skouras 2010 Roditis-Moscofilero (Peloponnese); $9. Peach, banana, citrus and white
flower aromas are followed by refreshing citrus and
spice flavors in this assertive white. A racy minerality
and spicy finish give the wine great food-pairing versatility, but it’s a good summer sipper on its own.
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BUYING GUIDE
INDIGENOUS VARIETIES
Estate Biblia Chora 2009 Areti Assyrtico
(Pangeon); $23. This is exactly what a good
Greek white should be…fresh, balanced, food-friendly.
On the nose, the wine offers citrus and tropical fruit.
Delicate, clean flavors of lemon, orange and slate dance
on the palate. Pair this with some freshly grilled fish or
a Mediterranean salad. Imported by Cava Spiliadis.
Editors’ Choice. —S.K.
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Skouras 2010 Georges Skouras
Moscofilero (Peloponnese); $15. Lush tropical fruit and fragrant white flowers lead this balanced,
pretty white from Skouras. On the palate, lemon, pear
and peach are buoyed by a great acidic spin. The briny
sea salt finish adds a delicious touch. Pair with grilled
octopus, fish. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc.
Editors’ Choice. —S.K.
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Domaine Gerovassiliou 2009 Malagousia
(Epanomi); $23. This is a variety Gerovassiliou
does very well, with its aromas of pear, peach and
lemon and its creamy but crisp flavors of pear, citrus
and peach. The wine has weight without losing its delicate touch, and balanced acidity gives it a food-friendly
edge. A great summer white wine. Imported by Cava
Spiliadis. —S.K.
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Alpha Estate 2010 Axia Malagauzia (Florina); $20. An alluring nose of deep pear and
peach lead this exciting variety from Axia. On the
palate, the curvy, creamy waves of peach and citrus are
followed by a clean finish. A tasty white that will pair
well with fish, chicken salad. Imported by Diamond
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A. Parparoussis 2009 The Gift of Dionysos
Sideritis (Greece); $23. This rare Greek variety expresses itself here with aromas of lime and
quince, and fresh green flavors of citrus and cucumber.
Refreshing but also creamy. A unique wine that will
pair well with grilled fish or octopus. Imported by Cava
Spiliadis. —S.K.
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CHARDONNAY
Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2009 Château
Julia Chardonnay (Drama); $15. Vibrant
tropical fruit and citrus on the nose start this poised
white from Greece. Pineapple, lemon and banana flavors are balanced by refreshing acidity and minerality.
Overall, the wine is a delicious blend of fresh and fruity.
A great find. Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K.
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Domaine Gerovassiliou 2009 Chardonnay
(Epanomi); $44. This fuller-bodied Chardonnay offers aromas of pear and tropical fruit, followed by
rich, round waves of apricot, pear and peach. Fresh but
mouthfilling, it’s a great everyday wine for fish or poultry dishes with a little more weight. Imported by Cava
Spiliadis. —S.K.
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Skouras 2009 Almyra Chardonnay (Peloponnese); $15. This fresh but spicy Chardon-
nay starts with tropical fruit, citrus and floral aromas
leading into a great fruit and acid balance. The minerality keeps the wine fresh and lifted, giving it a foodfriendly edge. A great go-to white. Imported by
Skouras 2007 Dum Vinum Sperum
Chardonnay (Peloponnese); $40. Vanilla,
spice and citrus aromas start this dependable Greek
Chardonnay. Spicy citrus, vanilla, fresh white fruit and
flowers on the palate are balanced and easy to love.
Pair with richer seafood or salads. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
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Estate Biblia Chora 2009 Chardonnay
(Pangeon); $35. Hallmark flavors of peach,
pear, citrus and spice lead this Chardonnay from Ktima.
Balanced and subdued, its white fruit, floral and citrus
flavors will pair well with dishes that need a lighter,
easygoing touch. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
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VIOGNIER
Domaine Gerovassiliou 2009 Viognier
(Epanomi); $39. Floral, fresh and fragrant on
the nose, this white offers elegant flavors of honey, apricot and tropical fruit. Good acidity and a crisp overall
quality are balanced by the luscious fruit. A unique,
pretty wine with diverse food pairing options…try it
with Asian or Indian cuisine. Imported by Cava
Spiliadis. —S.K.
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Skouras 2009 Eclectique Spilitsa Viognier
(Peloponnese); $40. A nose of peach, nutmeg,
toasted nut and honey leads this Viognier from Splitsa.
On the palate, smooth waves of white fruit, orange blossom and honey are expressive but refreshing, thanks to
the balanced acidity. A fun wine with class. Imported by
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Skouras 2009 Cuvée Larsinos Viognier
(Peloponnese); $20. This Viognier is a combination of peach and honeyed spice on the nose and
palate. Refreshing but with a round, fragrant curve, the
wine has a velvety texture and finishes with a spin of
peach and tropical fruit. Imported by Diamond
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OTHER WHITES
Domaine Gerovassiliou 2009 Sauvignon
Blanc (Epanomi); $35. This fumé has a zesty
character, with aromas of tropical fruit and flowers and
fresh, fun flavors of peach, citrus and pineapple. The
oak offers spice for added character, and clean acidity
makes it a great find for fresh, summer meals. Imported
by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
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SOUTHERN ITALY REDS
TAURASI
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Mastroberardino 2003 Radici Riserva
(Taurasi); $NA. Give this wine a few minutes
to evolve in the glass. It is a beautiful expression of
Taurasi that does a very faithful job of exploring the
depths and horizons of aged Aglianico. It emits elegant
aromas of resin, dried berries, cassis, tobacco, rum cake,
cola and crushed stone. The tannins are firm but also
show a softer, silkier side which makes the wine
approachable now. Imported by Winebow. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
92
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2006 Taurasi; $40.
For full review see page 5.
Mastroberardino 2005 Naturalis Historia
(Taurasi); $NA. Packaged in a beautifully
unique glass bottle, this collector’s wine from southern
Italy offers balance, intensity and cleanly etched aromas
of black fruit, resin, cola, rum cake, dried violets and
tobacco. The finish is elegant, polished and lingers long
on the palate thanks to the drying tannins. Imported
by Winebow. —M.L.
Terredora 2004 Pago dei Fusi (Taurasi);
$NA. Pago dei Fusi is a distinctive wine that
excels in terms of intensity and clarity. Elegant tones of
tar, black fruit, tobacco, dark spice and rum cake appear
immediately and slowly change form as the wine spends
more time in the glass. Drying tannins make for a dramatic close. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
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Villa Matilde 2005 Tenuta di Altavilla
(Taurasi); $NA. What sets this Taurasi apart is a
distinct floral note of blue flower or pressed rose that
sits over a much broader and bolder base of dark spice,
black fruit, prune, resin and cola. The little floral accent
adds a feminine touch to what is without a doubt one of
Italy’s most masculine wines. Imported by Empson
(USA) Ltd. —M.L.
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Donnachiara 2006 Taurasi; $34. This firm
and austere Taurasi opens with dark aromas of
plum cake, chocolate, dried currant, cola and smoky
barbecue sauce. The tannins are firm and dense and
the wine needs a few more years of cellar aging before
it softens. Imported by Tita Italian Import & Export. —
M.L.
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Terredora 2004 Taurasi; $NA. A vein of pure
elegance runs straight through this austere
Taurasi and holds it together until the firm, tannic end.
Along the way, it imparts tones of crushed black stone,
resin, dark fruit, prune, cola and dark spice. Pair this
wine with meat or aged cheese. Imported by Vias
Imports. —M.L.
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Terredora 2003 CampoRe Riserva (Taurasi);
$NA. Well-aged and elegant, this proud Taurasi
shows a very deep and sophisticated side. Aromas
include cured meat, licorice, rum cake, dried herbs,
cola and root beer. The freshness of the fruit is fading
but the tannins are still firm, giving the wine a few more
years of longevity. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
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La Casa Dell’Orco 2005 Taurasi; $30.
Behind those characteristic aromas of black
stone, resin and tar, this hearty Taurasi delivers a touch
of raw fruit or black cherry. Some muddled spice notes
appear and the wine delivers more used leather and
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dried tobacco on the close. Imported by Bedford International. —M.L.
Rocca del Principe 2007 Taurasi; $NA. This
is a ripe, jammy expression of Taurasi that shows
aromas of dried prune, raisin, dark tar, resin, blackberry
preserves and moist tobacco. The tannins are firm and
solid, but they also show a chewy, ripe side. Imported
by Indigenous Selections. —M.L.
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OTHER AGLIANICOS
Paternoster 2005 Don Anselmo (Aglianico
del Vulture); $90. Celebrating 20 years of
winemaking tradition, Don Anselmo is a landmark wine
that shows the best of the promising, but always overlooked, territory of Basilicata in southern Italy. Redolent of strong sunshine and volcanic soils, the wine is
powerful and ripe with dark fruit, spice and mineral
aromas. It boasts firm, drying tannins that will age
gracefully with more time in the cellar. Imported by
Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Serpico
(Irpinia); $80. Serpico is a beautiful but also
modern expression of Aglianico (the grapes come from
ancient vines in the Taurasi area) that opens with dark
notes of blackberry, crushed stone, chocolate, rum cake,
licorice and cola. The mouthfeel is smooth, firm and
very rich. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L.
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Ocone 2006 Anastasi (Aglianico del
Taburno); $50. From limestone and clay soils,
this elegant Aglianico opens with a smooth and silky
feel backed by power. Aromas of dark fruit, licorice and
spice would match leg of lamb or pork roast. Imported
by Polaner Selections. —M.L.
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Mustilli 2006 Cesco di Nece (Sant’ Agata
dei Goti); $27. Cesco di Nece is a dark, inky
Aglianico that opens with aromas of dried tobacco,
licorice and bitter chocolate. It’s a bruiser wine with
dark extraction and rock-solid structure. Imported by
Domenico Selections. —M.L.
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delivers a long succession of spice, leather, tobacco and
black fruit aromas. Very nice. Imported by U.S. Wine
Imports. —M.L.
Donnachiara 2007 Aglianico (Irpinia); $22.
Dark and concentrated in appearance, this
hearty Aglianico opens with tones of spice and smoked
bacon backed by black fruit, tobacco and dark leather.
The overall package is very enticing and that wine is
softer and smoother than most other expressions of this
firmly tannic grape. Imported by Tita Italian Import &
Export. —M.L.
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2008 Rubrato
Aglianico (Irpinia); $20. Rubrato is a clean
and polished expression of Aglianico (stored in stainless
steel instead of oak in order to preserve the freshness of
the fruit) that would work with meatloaf or juicy cheeseburgers. It shows a smooth but firm quality in the
mouth. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L.
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Mastroberardino 2008 Aglianico (Campania); $NA. This is a very correct and straightforward Aglianico that delivers all the basic promises of
the variety. There’s firmness and deep structure here,
but the wine is also flush with chewy fruit, tobacco,
leather and dusty mineral tones on the close. Imported
by Winebow. —M.L.
88
Castel dell’Angelo 2006 Colli e Sole
Aglianico (Campania); $NA. For full review
see page 7.
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Ocone 2006 Vigna Pezza La Corte (Aglianico del Taburno); $24. Made with organically
farmed Aglianico grapes, this single-vineyard expression spends nine months in oak to shape a dark, austere
and smoky wine. It’s not terribly complex or layered,
but it does offer upfront blackberry and spice aromas
over firm texture. Imported by Polaner Selections. —
M.L.
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Ocone 2004 Vigna Pezza la Corte (Aglianico del Taburno); $NA. This is a hearty, meaty
wine that opens with aromas of smoked bacon,
mesquite and A1 Steak Sauce. It feels smooth, rich and
ends with a touch of bitter cherry. Imported by Polaner
Selections. —M.L.
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Ocone 2004 Diomede (Aglianico del
Taburno); $35. Diomede is a plusher, chewier
expression of Aglianico with background notes of vanilla
and sweet spice that peek between dominant aromas of
blackberry and cassis. Like other expressions of this tannic grape, what distinguishes this wine is its firm structure that should be paired to fatty meat or succulent
steak. Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L.
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Sorrentino 2008 Don Paolo (Pompeiano);
$20. Don Paolo is a thick and richly layered
wine that offers tones of dark chocolate, mature fruit,
prune, blackberry preserves and rum cake. The mouthfeel is characterized by gritty tannins and jammy fruit
power. Imported by Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
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Terra di Briganti 2008 Martummè Aglianico (Sannio); $24. Martummè is an austere
Taurasi-style Aglianico (from the Sannio region, however) that places emphasis on richness, elegance and
sophistication. Deep and penetrating in the mouth, it
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Terredora 2008 Aglianico (Campania);
$NA. Although those superfirm tannins do pop
up on the end, this is a relatively smooth and fruit-forward expression of the austere Aglianico variety. Blackberry and maraschino cherry is surrounded by a drying
aromatic embroidery of mineral and powdered spice.
Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
Villa Matilde 2007 Tenuta Rocca dei Leoni
Aglianico (Campania); $NA. This is a tight,
meaty Aglianico that offers a broad range of aromas
that spans from black pepper to green olive to mature
black cherry. The wine’s solid structure makes it a good
match to lamb or stewed game meat. Imported by
Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
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Donnachiara 2007 Aglianico (Campania);
$16. A meaty note of bresaola or smoked bacon
opens the nose of this hearty Aglianico. The wine offers
black concentration and rich aromas of sweet spice,
blackberry jam, crushed pepper, milky chocolate and
sour cherry. Imported by Tita Italian Import & Export.
—M.L.
La Casa Dell’Orco 2008 Aglianico (Irpinia);
$15. Here’s a food-friendly Aglianico that opens
with pungent aromas of green herb, talc powder,
crushed stone and dried fruit. It’s a drying but not
astringent wine that leaves a polished sensation on the
finish. Imported by Bedford International. —M.L.
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Ocone 2006 Aglianico del Taburno; $13.
Available at an attractively low price, this oakaged Aglianico opens with dark, brooding tones of cassis, dark spice, resin, tar and black licorice. The
mouthfeel is firm and tight, making this wine suitable
for a fatty meat dish such as a juicy cheeseburger.
Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L.
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Terra di Briganti 2007 Aglianico (Sannio);
$16. From the Sannio area of Campania, this is
a thin and easy expression of Aglianico that offers a very
frank and upfront interpretation of the grape variety.
Aromas include dark berry, tobacco and spice followed
by firm tannins at the rear. Imported by U.S. Wine
Imports. —M.L.
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PIEDIROSSO
Mastroberardino 2009 Lacryma Christi del
Vesuvio; $NA. Here’s a bright and fruit-forward red wine from Mt. Vesuvius that offers lively notes
of cherry, mature raspberry, spice and almond paste.
It’s a no-fuss wine that drinks easily and quickly.
Imported by Winebow. —M.L.
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Mustilli 2008 Piedirosso (Sannio); $17. Sour
cherry, cranberry, licorice and cola open the
nose of Mustilli’s Piedirosso. This is an easy, fresh wine
that would pair with pizza or pasta topped with loads of
cheese. Imported by Domenico Selections. —M.L.
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Ocone 2009 Piedirosso (Taburno); $12.
Playful aromas of sweet fruit and watermelon
candy open the nose of this bright Piedirosso wine. It’s
smooth and easygoing in the mouth and would pair
with grilled sausage or lamb chops. Imported by
Polaner Selections. —M.L.
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Ocone 2008 Piedirosso (Taburno); $12.
Bright fruit aromas open the nose of this rubycolored Piedirosso. The wine is compact and firm with
enough tannins and acidity to pair with cheesy lasagna.
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Sorrentino 2008 Vulcano Piedirosso (Pompeiano); $18. Vulcano, in hommage to the
might Mt. Vesuvius, opens with tight aromas of cola,
blackberry, licorice and root beer. The wine is compact
and linear with some sharp, brambly elements due to
high acidity and tannins. Imported by Supreme Wines
& Spirits. —M.L.
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BUYING GUIDE
Terredora 2007 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio; $NA. Slightly muddled at first, this wine
needs a few minutes to open in the glass. It slowly
reveals aromas of dark spice, prune and plum. In the
mouth there are sour cherry flavors and tight tannins.
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CASAVECCHIA
Terre del Principe 2007 Centomoggia
Casavecchia (Terre del Volturno); $58. This
inky, thick and well- extracted wine (made from
Casavecchia grapes) offers very pretty aromas of dark
chocolate, prune, exotic spice and black jammy fruit.
The tannins are soft and polished and the wine performs even better after a few minutes in the glass.
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Fattoria Alois 2007 Trebulanum Casavecchia (Campania); $39. Casavecchia (know as
Trebulanum in the ancient world) is one of Italy’s most
historic varieties but Fattoria Alois presents a modern,
oak-aged expression with bold notes of chocolate, clove,
black fruit and rum cake. It closes firm with a touch of
bright sourness. Very interesting. Imported by Soilair
Selection. —M.L.
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OTHER REDS
Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Sirica (Campania); $NA. This is a fascinating wine that represents the first bottling of a newly discovered grape
called Sirica (only 690 bottles have been produced).
Genetic research shows that the grape shares characteristic with Syrah but that its lineage extends deep into
ancient times. The wine is simply delicious with soft
layers of chocolate, cherry and spice and balanced firmness on the close. A great item for collectors. Imported
by Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Pàtrimo (Campania); $120. For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
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Tenute Rubino 2007 TorreTesta (Salento);
$NA. TorreTesta is an amazing wine that points
to the full potential of winemaking in Puglia, the heel of
the boot of Italy. Made from a rare indigenous grape
called Susumaniello, this is a ripe, soft, enduring and
ever-so satisfying red wine that could pair with any
hearty meat dish. Aromas of blackberry, chocolate and
exotic spice are enhanced by a beautiful velvety texture. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L.
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Terre del Principe 2007 Vigna Piancastelli
(Terre del Volturno); $80. This inky blend of
Pallagrello Nero and Casavecchia (two of Italy’s oldest
grape varieties) opens with opulent aromas of chocolate, exotic spice, dark fruit, cola and cinnamon. It is
smooth and rich on the palate but the wine also imparts
a high dose of sweetness and succulence that would
work well next to rare beef. Imported by Vias Imports.
—M.L.
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Montevetrano 2008 Red Wine (Campania); $NA. This 60-30-10 Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Aglianico blend from southern Italy delivers
beautiful purity and intensity. Aromas here include
blackberry, tobacco, leather, rum cake and polished
black stone. It tastes firm and full on the palate and
could use a few more years of cellar aging. Imported by
Winebow. —M.L.
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Ocone 2008 Calidonio (Taburno); $42. Calidonio is a fascinating and deeply layered wine
that is remarkable off the bat thanks to its unique personality and compelling aromatic profile. Piedirosso
(85%) is fermented in oak with 15% Aglianico to create
tones of black fruit, spicy smoked meat, resin and black
licorice. It is smooth and very soft on the close.
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Palari 2007 Faro (Sicilia); $NA. Vintner Salvatore Geraci is the proud producer of Palari
Faro, one of the great red wines to emerge from the
Mediterranean rim and the island of Sicily. The elegance and finesse is extraordinary and the wine opens
with a complex bouquet that sees petite elements of
cassis, licorice, tar and tobacco rolled into one.
Imported by Panebianco. —M.L.
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Palari 2006 Faro (Sicilia); $NA. This is a delicate and beautiful wine that roughly translates
into Sicily’s answer to a great Pinot Noir. Indigenous
grapes native to the Mediterranean island are used to
make an elegant, complex and anything-but-obvious
expression that boasts small berry fruit, cola and toasted
almond. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L.
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Villa Matilde 2004 Camarato (Falerno del
Massico); $NA. Camarato is a beautiful wine
and the 2004 vintage shows impressive harmony and
elegance. The wine opens with aromas of chocolate,
black cherry and spice. In the mouth, it shows firm,
enduring tannins. Pair it with a succulent steak.
Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
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Galardi 2008 Terra di Lavoro (Roccamonfina); $NA. Terra di Lavoro (a blend of Aglianico and Piedirosso) is packaged in a handsome bottle
and opens with inky, dark richness. The well concentrated wine is redolent of espresso bean, rum cake,
chocolate, leather and moist pipe tobacco. The sweet
tannins are very astringent still so give this wine time to
soften. —M.L.
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Nanni Copé 2008 Sabbie di Sopra il Bosco
(Terre del Volturno); $49. Here’s a new producer from southern Italy who presents a very interesting blend of Pallagrello (70%), Aglianico and
Casavecchia. The wine opens with warm aromas of
leather, smoked meat and black fruit and delivers a
unique mouthfeel that is firm but rich at the same time.
Imported by T. Elenteny Imports. —M.L.
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Terre del Principe 2007 Ambruco Pallagrello (Terre del Volturno); $58. Ambruco is
a softly layered and rich wine that imparts opulent aromas of chocolate, sweet spice, dark fruit, plum, prune
and licorice. There’s a touch of bitterness in the mouth
but otherwise the mouthfeel is thick and dense enough
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to smooth out any wrinkles. Imported by Vias Imports.
—M.L.
Fattoria Alois 2007 Settimo (Campania);
$NA. Drying aromas of crushed stone and
licorice open the nose of this interesting Pallagrello and
Casavecchia blend. Those tones are soon followed by
very rich layers of chocolate, plum cake, cola and pressed
rose petal and the mouthfeel is rich and penetrating.
Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
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Terre del Principe 2009 Castello delle Femmine (Terre del Volturno); $38. Terre del
Principe tends to produce very extracted and thickly
concentrated wines. Castello delle Femmine, on the
other hand, exhibits a lighter more delicate style with
aromas of dark fruit, spice, plum and cola. The power is
there, only it’s packaged in a silk lining. Imported by
Vias Imports. —M.L.
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Villa Matilde 2006 Cecubo (Roccamonfina); $NA. Cecubo is a thick and well concentrated wine that opens with meaty aromas of smoked
bacon and blackberry followed by cola, barbecue sauce
and sweet spice. It’s a unique and distinctive wine that
ends with a smooth, firm feel. Imported by Empson
(USA) Ltd. —M.L.
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Fattoria Alois 2008 Cunto Pallagrello
(Campania); $NA. This solidly tannic expression of Pallagrello opens with aromas of chocolate, dark
spice and mature fruit. The harshness of the structure
needs to be offset by creamy or fatty foods that will
soften the variety’s natural astringency. Imported by
Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2005 Pàtrimo Merlot (Campania); $150. Pàtrimo, a pure expression of Merlot from southern Italy, is always a crowd
pleaser, but this year’s edition is a tad more ripe and
jammy than past vintages: 2005 was indeed a hot year.
Intense aromas of black cherry and blackberry pie
emerge from the nose and the wine’s finish is accented
by a surprise signature of tart acidity. Imported by Palm
Bay International. —M.L.
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I Capitani 2007 Emè (Irpinia); $NA. This is a
unique wine from an area of Italy that rarely
does blended varieties. The grapes used here are
Aglianico, Piedirosso and Sangiovese and the aromas
include soy sauce, cola, root beer and barbecue sauce.
A little strange and probably not for everyone.
Imported by Premium Brands. —M.L.
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Trabucco 2007 Rapicano (Falerno del Massico); $NA. Rapicano is a full and generous
wine that opens with a blast of chocolate fudge and cinnamon spice followed by dried prunes, raisins and
blackberry. That gorgeous initial intensity is taken down
a notch in the mouth where the wine shows tight tannins. —M.L.
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Villa Matilde 2006 Red Wine (Falerno del
Massico); $NA. A blend of Aglianico and
Piedirosso, Falerno is one of civilization’s oldest wines
(its history spans back to ancient Rome). This expression delivers mature aromas of blackberry jam and
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exotic spice. There’s a creamy fullness to the mouthfeel that is capped by tannic firmness. Imported by
Il Matané 2008 Primitivo di Manduria;
$NA. This is a meaty, chewy, succulent and
slightly sweet rendition of Primitivo from sunny southern Italy that is redolent of jammy fruit and blackberry
pie. Those ripe tones continue to the mouth where the
wine feels soft, plush and smooth. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
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Masseria del Fauno 2010 Primitivo
(Puglia); $NA. This darkly colored Primitivo
opens with sweet notes of Christmas spice, cinnamon,
nutmeg, blackberry jam and plum cake. The wine is
sticky and chewy on the close with sweet, succulent
tannins. —M.L.
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Masseria del Fauno 2010 Sangiovese
(Puglia); $NA. This darkly concentrated Sangiovese from Puglia opens with ripe aromas of raspberry jam, maraschino cherry and sun-soaked lavender
flower. There’s a sweetness you’ll identify on the finish
that is enhanced by the wine’s chewy texture. —M.L.
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Mastroberardino 2009 Mastro (Campania);
$NA. Made with a unique blend of Aglianico,
Piedirosso and Sciascinoso grapes, Mastro is a plush
and food-friendly red wine that would wash down with
easy meat dishes or lasagna. The wine ends with a hint
of chopped herb or smoked bacon. Imported by
Winebow. —M.L.
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Trabucco 2007 Érre (Falerno del Massico);
$NA. Herbal notes are intermingled with dark
chocolate and blackberry to produce the intense,
extracted nose on this southern Italian red wine.
There’s a touch of sourness on the close, backed by
super tight tannins, that should relax with two or three
more years of cellar aging. —M.L.
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Sorrentino 2009 Versacrum Gragnano
(Penisola Sorrentina); $16. Made with Gragnano grapes from sunny Sorrento, this sparkling red
wine opens with aromas of dark chocolate, blackberry,
smoked ham and Band-Aid. It’s a strange combination
for a bubbly wine that sees firm tannins awkwardly
placed within its creamy perlage. Imported by Supreme
Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
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ROSÉS
Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Ros’Aura
(Irpinia); $16. Made with Aglianico grapes, this
elegantly pink rosé offers sweet berry aromas of raspberry and blueberry followed by floral notes and a
touch of almond marzipan. The mouthfeel is tonic and
clean and more berry flavors color the finish. Imported
by Palm Bay International. —M.L.
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Mastroberardino 2009 Lacrimarosa (Campania); $NA. This beautiful rosé opens with a
pretty pink color and offers direct aromas of cranberry,
raspberry, white cherry, almond skin and slight shadings
of cinnamon spice. The mouthfeel is crisp, clean and
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shows medium structure and endurance. Imported by
Winebow. —M.L.
Talamonti 2010 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo;
$NA. This pomegranate-pink Cerasuolo from
central Italy opens with spicy aromas of chopped herb,
cassis and raspberry and ends with cooling acidity on
the close. The mouthfeel shows balanced density and
smoothness. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L.
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Fattoria Alois 2009 Nadhir (Campania);
$NA. This dark, ruby-colored rosé made with
the rare Casavecchia grape (which has existed since
ancient Rome, when Pliny the Elder referred to it as
Trebulanum), opens with soapy aromas of rosewood,
raspberry, blueberry and almond paste. It shows a surprising touch of tannic firmness on the close. Imported
by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
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Librandi 2009 Rosato (Cirò); $NA. Here’s a
well structured and creamy rosé from Calabria,
southern Italy, that opens with a bright pink color and
enticing aromas of raspberry and cranberry jelly.
Thanks to that extra density, you could pair this wine
with roast chicken or pork chops. Imported by
Winebow. —M.L.
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Terredora 2009 Rosaenovae (Irpinia); $NA.
This is an interesting but not perfectly balanced
rosé from the celebrated Irpinia area of Campania in
southern Italy. The nose of this pretty, pale pink wine
opens with sweet aromas of berries and roses. But the
mouthfeel shows sharp sourness. Imported by Vias
Imports. —M.L.
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Spadafora 2009 Vigna Fiego (Donnici);
$NA. This rosé blend of Magliocco, Greco Nero
and Malvasia from Calabria offers lean intensity and
aromas of rose petal and small berry. There’s a touch of
sour almond as well and the wine is slightly bitter and
muddled in the mouth. —M.L.
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SOUTHERN ITALY
WHITES
FALANGHINA
Villa Matilde 2006 Eleusi Falanghina Passito (Roccamonfina); $NA/375 ml. Eleusi is
a gorgeous and opulent wine with natural intensity that
sees no limits. The aromas are penetrating and rich and
include dried apricot, chestnut honey, acacia flower and
candied fruit. The mouthfeel is silky smooth and the
finish lasts forever. Beautiful. Imported by Empson
(USA) Ltd. —M.L.
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Serrocielo
Falanghina (Sannio); $33. This is a really fantastic wine and one of the best expression of Falanghina
available today. (Perhaps the best.) What sets it apart is
the purity of its fruit aromas. Citrus, white mineral and
tonic fruit aromas hint at the crisp and smooth palate.
Would wash down well with fish, salad or spaghetti con
vongole. Imported by Palm Bay International. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2006 DUBL
Falanghina Brut Metodo Classico (Campania); $40. Made with Italy’s popular and historic
Falanghina grape and aged on the lees for 14 months,
this classic method sparkling wine represents a new
turn for southern Italian winemaking that has traditionally shown little interest in bubbles. The results here
are promising, with fresh tones of field flower and stone
fruit that would pair perfectly with appetizers.
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Ocone 2009 Vigna del Monaco Falanghina
(Taburno); $22. This single cru, oak-fermented
Falanghina opens with a saturated golden color and
concentrated aromas of pineapple, exotic fruit, mango,
toasted almond and yellow rose. It shows creamy richness in the mouth and an elaborate style that is rare for
this easygoing white grape. Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L.
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Terra di Briganti 2008 Falanghina Passito
(Beneventano); $25/375 ml. Air-dried
Falanghina grapes are pressed to produce a golden-colored dessert wine with aromas of dried hay, honey,
almond, apricot and even a touch of fresh celery that
lends a zesty, green accent. The finish is dominated by
rich flavors of dried apple. Imported by U.S. Wine
Imports. —M.L.
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Donnachiara 2009 Falanghina (Beneventano); $16. Donnachiara offers a bright and
cheerful expression of Falanghina that is packed tight
with exotic fruit, citrus, stone fruit and jasmine flower.
It offers enough density in the mouth to pair with scallops or oysters. Imported by Tita Italian Import &
Export. —M.L.
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Falanghina
(Sannio); $18. This is a crisp and pure expression of Falanghina with aromas of lemon zest and honeysuckle followed by crushed white stone and mature
peach or melon. The wine would make a perfect companion to appetizers or sushi. Imported by Palm Bay
International. —M.L.
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Mastroberardino 2009 Falanghina (Sannio); $NA. Crisp and citrusy with supporting
aromas of melon and peach, this is a very clean and
well put together Falanghina. This luminous white
would make a wonderful companion to light salad
lunches or smoked salmon carpaccio. Imported by
Winebow. —M.L.
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Villa Matilde 2009 Falanghina (Falerno del
Massico); $NA. Made from a very old clone of
Falanghina (a grape whose history spans back to the
Roman Empire), this bright and tonic wine bursts open
with green notes of kiwi, lime and freshly cut grass.
Those background citrus and white mineral aromas
would make it perfect to pair with lightly fried calamari. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
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Ocone 2009 Falanghina (Taburno); $12.
Here’s a very well priced Falanghina with overt
and very mature aromas of apricot, peach and sweet
honey. It feels smooth and silky and ends with a blast
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BUYING GUIDE
of yellow fruit flavors. Imported by Polaner Selections.
—M.L.
Terra di Briganti 2009 Falanghina (Sannio);
$14. From a boutique producer that shows great
promise for the future, this fresh Falanghina opens with
bright notes of green grass, kiwi, lemon and white
flower. It’s an easy, crisp wine that keeps the palate crystal clean. Imported by US Wine Imports. —M.L.
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Villa Matilde 2009 Tenuta Rocca dei Leoni
Falanghina (Campania); $NA. Residents of
Central-South Italy, and especially the Romans, enjoy a
long and loving relationship with Falanghina thanks to
the grape’s ability to pair with fresh foods and fish. Villa
Matilde presents a very clean, pristine and crisp expression with aromas of citrus, white rose and peach.
Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
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Mustilli 2008 Sant’Agata dei Goti
Falanghina (Campania); $17. This is a heavier and thicker expression of Falanghina that opens with
aromas of pineapple, melon, stone fruit and lemon zest.
That density continues to the mouth and the wine
would pair with spicy Thai or Chinese food. Imported
by Domenico Selections. —M.L.
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Sorrentino 2009 Versacrum Falanghina
(Pompeiano); $15. You can’t beat the sense of
history awarded by this tangy, crisp Falanghina. Fruit is
farmed near the ancient city of Pompeii under the
menacing shadow of Mt. Vesuvius. The result is a sharp,
tonic wine with kiwi, lime and grapefruit aromas.
Imported by Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
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Terredora 2009 Falanghina (Irpinia); $NA.
There’s a smoky, dusty element at first that
quickly evolves into mature aromas of peach, melon
and pear. The nose is slightly muddled at first but it
shows well in the mouth thanks to its natural crispness
and directness. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
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Vivi 2009 Falanghina (Campania); $NA. This
light and bright white wine from southern Italy
offers clean mineral notes of crushed stone and slate
backed by peach, honey and citrus. Pair this wine with
mussels steamed in white wine sauce and garlic. —M.L.
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La Casa Dell’Orco 2009 Falanghina (Beneventano); $12. This is an easy, no-fuss
expression of Falanghina that opens with direct aromas
of citrus and stone fruit and follows through to the
palate with a tonic, refreshing feel. It would work with
fried vegetable appetizers or light lunches. Imported
by Bedford International. —M.L.
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Mustilli 2007 Vigna Segreta Falanghina
(Campania); $21. From the Sant’Agata dei
Goti area of southern Italy, this hay-colored Falanghina
offers mature aromas of melon, lemon drop and exotic
fruit. The mouthfeel carries heft and power. Imported
by Domenico Selections. —M.L.
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Cantine Astroni 2007 Strione Falanghina
(Campania); $NA. This strange wine opens
with a bright gold, almost amber color and a surprisingly neutral nose. There’s nothing wrong with the
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wine, in fact in the mouth, it leaves resiny aromas of
butterscotch, exotic fruit and candied banana. —M.L.
FIANO
Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Pietracalda
(Fiano di Avellino); $33. Pietracalda (which
translates into “hot rock”) seems indeed to release aromas of sunbaked granite or river stone over lush background tones of peach, pear and yellow lemon zest.
There’s a drying, polished feel in the mouth with a
touch of bitter almond on the close. Imported by Palm
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I Capitani 2009 Gaudium (Fiano di Avellino); $NA. Gaudium is a radically unique
expression of Fiano that might not appeal to everyone
but that definitely shows careful craftsmanship and execution. The nose is redolent of crushed clove and exotic
spice (aromas you’d almost expect to find in a red wine)
closely followed by fresh melon, pear and peach.
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Fiano di Avellino; $22. Here’s a confident and pristine
expression of Fiano that bursts open with aromas of
pear, white melon, acacia flower and honeysuckle.
Those fruit and flower flavors build cheerful accents
over an otherwise dry and polished mouthfeel.
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Mastroberardino 2008 Fiano di Avellino;
$25. This is a beautiful expression of Fiano with
delicate background tones of chopped herb and even a
touch of basil that helps the wine gain in intensity and
complexity overall. At the back are characteristic tones of
pear, lemon and apricot. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.
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Mastroberardino 2009 Fiano di Avellino;
$NA. This is a crisp, tonic and steely expression
of Fiano that offers an incredibly focused and sharp
bouquet of white rose, crushed mineral and stone fruit.
The wine’s precise personality is what makes it so
appropriate to pair with summer pasta or seafood.
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Ocone 2009 Oca Bianca (Beneventano);
$22. Oca Bianca is a Fiano-based wine (with
15% other varieties mixed into the blend) that offers a
beautiful bouquet of peach, white flower and Golden
Delicious apple. Despite the aromatic abundance, the
wine is thinner and crisper on the finish. Imported by
Polaner Selections. —M.L.
88
Donnachiara 2009 Fiano di Avellino; $19.
Pear, Golden Delicious apple and cantaloup
melon open the nose of this bigger style of Fiano di
Avellino. The wine offers more density and girth in the
mouth, and this translates into staying power and overall persistency. Imported by Tita Italian Import &
Export. —M.L.
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Terredora 2008 CampoRe (Fiano di Avellino); $NA. CampoRe opens with slightly oxidized (but not overwhelming) aromas of caramel and
butterscotch followed by mature melon, apricot and
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dried almond. The wine tastes soft and slightly sweet
with marzipan-like flavors on the close. Imported by
Terredora 2009 Fiano di Avellino; $NA.
Terredora is a dynamic, family-run winery with
deep roots in Irpinia wine tradition. The Fiano di Avellino opens with mature yellow and exotic fruit aromas
with background notes of dusty mineral and crushed
granite. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
87
Villa Matilde 2009 Tenute di Altavilla
(Fiano di Avellino); $NA. Fiano is a versatile
grape that when executed in a fresh, easy style (as in
this expression) makes a perfect companion to shellfish
or seafood. Aromas include stone fruit, pink grapefruit
and melon and there’s a touch of heat or power on the
close. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
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La Casa Dell’Orco 2009 Fiano di Avellino;
$22. La Casa dell’Orco offers an interesting
interpretation of Fiano that is slightly bigger and fatter
than most. This golden wine opens with aromas of
mature fruit, melon, apricot and a spicy touch of freshly
cut grass at the very end. It moves smoothly over the
mouth and shows medium intensity. Imported by Bedford International. —M.L.
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Rocca del Principe 2009 Fiano di Avellino;
$24. This expression of Fiano comes forward
with crisp, clean aromas of freshly cut lemon, orange
blossom and almond paste. The mouthfeel is tonic and
lean, but the real point here is the wine’s freshness.
Imported by Indigenous Selections. —M.L.
86
Masseria Altemura 2008 Fiano (Salento);
$15. Here’s an easy Fiano-based wine from the
deep south of Italy. Puglia is not known for its white
wines, but this expression does a good job of presenting
the sunshine and intensity of the region. It’s very thin,
but also fresh in the mouth. Imported by Zonin USA.
—M.L.
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Terra dei Re 2009 Claris (Fiano di Avellino);
$NA. This Fiano is a bit flat in the mouth and
offers aromas of pressed yellow rose, butterscotch and
sun-dried apricot. The wine is correct, albeit one
dimensional. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
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GRECO
Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Cutizzi (Greco
di Tufo); $33. Cutizzi’s bottle has been restyled
with a single yellow polka dot that will really catch your
eye. The wine is equally fetching to the senses thanks to
its rich aromas of pear, peach and Golden Delicious
apple. The soft creaminess to the mouthfeel begs for
shrimp or shellfish. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L.
90
Feudi di San Gregorio 2006 DUBL Greco
Brut Metodo Classico (Campania); $45.
This is a very special, one-of-a-kind sparkling wine.
Made in the metodo classico with indigenous Greco
grapes (from the southern Italian region of Campania)
the wine rests on the lees for 24 months to achieve
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extra richness and opulence on the nose and mouth.
Ripe aromas of peach, melon and almond rise to the
forefront. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L.
Donnachiara 2009 Greco di Tufo; $19. This
is a full, generous and round expression of
Greco that lingers long on the palate thanks to its yellow fruit, rose, almond, melon and apricot characteristics. It shows good density, persistency and a touch of
piquant spice on the close. Imported by Tita Italian
Import & Export. —M.L.
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Greco di Tufo;
$22. This is a really fantastic white wine from
southern Italy that expresses much of the complexity
and beauty of the land that shaped it. It also promises a
perfect pairing match to any Mediterranean fish dish—
from mussels with coarse black pepper or steamed calamari in lemon juice and olive oil. Imported by Palm
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I Capitani 2009 Serum (Greco di Tufo);
$NA. Serum opens with dusty mineral aromas
backed by stone fruit, white peach, tangerine skin and
almond paste. The really nice thing about this wine is
the polished, drying feel it imparts on the close.
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La Casa Dell’Orco 2009 Greco di Tufo; $22.
This rich expression of Greco opens with a very
direct and immediate bouquet of exotic fruit, pineapple
and dried banana chips. It shows dense smoothness and
texture that would stand up to roasted chicken or turkey
and Atlantic fish. Imported by Bedford International.
—M.L.
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Mastroberardino 2009 Greco di Tufo; $NA.
Mastroberardino offers a linear and crisp Greco
that unveils a sure mineral vein of chalk and brimstone
backed by citrus, pear, apple and fleshy white peach.
The mouthfeel is thin and compact, yet the natural
freshness leaves a lasting impression. Imported by
Winebow. —M.L.
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Villa Matilde 2009 Tenute di Altavilla
(Greco di Tufo); $NA. This is a fantastic
expression of Greco that offers impressive richness,
roundness and aromatic intensity. The wine opens with
a bright, golden color and segues to aromas of pear,
Golden Delicious apple and apricot. Behind those fruit
tones are drying mineral notes that add balance and a
touch of elegance. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd.
—M.L.
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Librandi 2009 Greco Bianco (Cirò); $NA.
The Greco Bianco grape (a native variety of Calabria in southern Italy) offers compelling aromas of
pear, Golden Delicious apple and stone fruit. Librandi
does a great job with this wine that shows density and
creamy spice on the close. Pair it with white meat or
fish. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.
87
Ocone 2009 Greco (Taburno); $13. Ocone
farms organically and this newest vintage of
Greco shows interesting aromas of toasted almond and
stone fruit offset by citrus and white flower. The wine is
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fresh and lemony on the close. Imported by Polaner
Selections. —M.L.
terscotch and caramel follow mature fruit tones of
melon, apricot and yellow peach. The wine is silky and
fine on the close. Imported by Michael R. Downey
Selections. —M.L.
Terredora 2009 Loggia della Serra (Greco
di Tufo); $NA. If you’re itching to spend an
afternoon sipping a cool Italian white by the pool or on
your back porch with friends, here is your wine. Southern Italy’s answer to quality Pinot Grigio, this luminous
Greco offers aromas of pear and peach with a crisp,
lemony finish. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
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Ocone 2008 Greco (Taburno); $13. This is a
deeply golden and saturated Greco that offers
the structure and consistency to pair with white meat,
pasta or shellfish. It offers subtle flavors of butterscotch
and dried apricot as well. Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L.
PALLAGRELLO BIANCO
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Taverna 2009 Greco (Basilicata); $NA.
Here’s a simple and fresh expression of Greco
from southern Italy that shows chalky, drying characteristics as well as ample pear and Golden Delicious apple.
This easy wine would make a perfect partner to finger
foods or appetizers. —M.L.
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CODA DI VOLPE
Mastroberardino 2009 Lacryma Christi del
Vesuvio; $NA. Forget Pinot Grigio. Next time
you’re looking for a fresh Italian white to pair with your
favorite foods, try the little-known Coda di Volpe (“tail
of the fox”) grape that makes its home under the
shadow of Mt. Vesuvius. This expression offers citrus,
peach and pear aromas. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.
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Terredora 2009 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio; $NA. This luminous Lacryma Christi
opens with bright aromas of citrus, pear, stone fruit and
shows slight hints of vanilla and pine nut as well. It sits
tight on the palate thanks to its crispness and tonic firmness. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
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Terredora 2009 Coda di Volpe (Campania);
$NA. Terredora offers a very successful expression of the rare Coda di Volpe grape that puts emphasis
on body and texture, and not only on aromatics. The
bouquet is redolent of stone fruit and melon, but the
wine also feels creamy and smooth on the close.
Sorrentino 2008 Natì Coda di Volpe (Pompeiano); $NA. This is an interesting, outright
strange wine that opens with a full golden color and an
aromatic veil of smoke, dust or chalky mineral over
exotic fruit and peach. One item out of place is the alcohol, which emerges strong in the mouth. Imported by
Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
Terre del Principe 2008 Le Sèrole (Terre del
Volturno); $50. Executed in a big, elaborate
style, this wine won’t appeal to everyone. It takes on an
almost intellectual approach, seeking to push the outer
limits of the precious Pallagrello grape though oak fermentation and extended bottle aging. If you are seeking
a carefree, fish-friendly wine, this is not for you. White
meat or pasta would be a better choice. Imported by
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Fattoria Alois 2009 Caiatì Pallagrello (Campania); $NA. Caiatì is an interesting and
unique expression of Pallagrello that does an excellent
job of offering both aromatics and structure. Notes of
melon, peach and apricot are followed by smooth
creaminess and density. Imported by Domaine Select
Wine Estates. —M.L.
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Fattoria Selvanova 2009 Acquavigna
(Terre del Volturno); $16. From the rare Pallagrello grape, this is a wine that will appeal to those
looking for new tastes from Italy. You can feel the alcohol here but the heat is downplayed by the wine’s naturally thick and rich texture. Pair this wine with creamy
pasta dishes to match the intensity of the mouthfeel.
Imported by David Vincent Selection. —M.L.
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Fattoria Selvanova 2007 Acquavigna
(Terre del Volturno); $16. If you want to taste
a new grape variety from southern Italy, Pallagrello is a
very interesting choice. The wine is naturally high in
alcohol so take care to pair it with rich, creamy or
cheesy dishes to dampen the heat. Aromas include
stone fruit, honey and bitter nut. Imported by David
Vincent Selection. —M.L.
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Ocone 2009 Coda di Volpe (Taburno); $12.
Coda di Volpe is vinified in stainless steel to offer
a simple, clean and tonic white wine from southern Italy.
It shows tones of bitter almond and lemon zest on the
close. Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L.
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Sorrentino 2009 Versacrum (Lacryma
Christi del Vesuvio); $18. This is a luminous,
creamy expression of Coda di Volpe that delivers aromas of stone fruit, pineapple, apricot and yellow rose.
The mouthfeel is short and compact, but it does show
nice density while it lasts. Imported by Supreme Wines
& Spirits. —M.L.
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Grotta del Sole 2007 Lacryma Christi del
Vesuvio; $NA. Slightly oxidized aromas of but-
Fattoria Selvanova 2008 Acquavigna (Terre
del Volturno); $16. This vintage of Acquavigna
(a white wine from southern Italy made with the unique
Pallagrello grape) shows good integration of its high
alcohol component and the creamy richness of the texture. Aromas include stone fruit, citrus and a touch of
bitter almond. This is not a wine for everyone. Imported
by David Vincent Selection. —M.L.
OTHER WHITES
Librandi 2007 Le Passule (Val di Neto);
$NA/500 ml. Le Passule is a gorgeous passito
dessert wine that offers sweet tones of honey, candied
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apricot and almond paste backed by a zesty touch of
exotic spice. There’s enough heft and determination
here to pair with aged cheese. Imported by Winebow.
—M.L.
Sorrentino 2009 Fior di Ginestre Passito
(Pompeiano); $28/500 ml. Made with a
blend of Falanghina and Coda di Volpe grapes, this
amber-colored passito opens with aromas of white
raisin, maple syrup, honey, toasted almond and sweet
marzipan. It’s a creamy, rich wine that would pair with
aged cheese or sweet desserts alike. Imported by
Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
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Villa Matilde 2007 Caracci (Falerno del
Massico); $NA. Only produced in the best vintages, Caracci is a beautifully golden colored wine that
opens with very immediate aromas of dried fruit or
apricot, lemon zest, honeysuckle and almond paste. It
feels crisp, direct and fresh on the close. Imported by
88
Librandi 2009 Critone (Val di Neto); $NA.
Chardonnay and Sauvignon grapes are blended
to produce this fragrant white wine from Calabria,
southern Italy. The Chardonnay component adds structure and creamy density, while the Sauvignon offers
fresh floral aromas. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.
87
Librandi 2009 Efeso Mantonico (Val di
Neto); $NA. Mantonico is among the most
cherished native grape varieties of southern Italy, and
this luminous expression by celebrated Calabria producer Librandi offers an interesting mix of elegance
and power. The wine boasts thick natural density and
there’s a bright note of zesty spice on the close.
87
Mastroberardino 2009 Mastro (Campania);
$NA. A super Campania blend of Coda di
Volpe, Fiano, Greco and Falanghina (basically all of the
region’s white indigenous grapes), Mastro is a fabulously crisp, cheerful and enjoyable wine. It drinks like
a charm with a no-fuss, direct approach. Imported by
Winebow. —M.L.
87
Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Lacryma
Christi del Vesuvio; $17. From vineyards
near the dangerous Vesuvius volcano, this crisp white
wine is direct, clean, easy-going and food friendly. It
opens with citrus, tangerine and stone fruit aromas.
86
Taverna 2009 Dry Muscat (Basilicata);
$NA. Handpicked Moscato Giallo grapes are
vinified as a dry white wine that opens with intensely
fragrant aromas of peach, honeysuckle, papaya and
mango. The nose is really beautiful and the mouthfeel
is indeed dry and simple with a touch of zest and sour
spice on the close. —M.L.
86
Trabucco 2008 16 Marzo (Falerno del Massico); $NA. This is an herbal, floral white wine
with aromas that span from dried hay to pungent lemon
blossom. It seems to give the best of itself on the bouquet, because in the mouth, this wine is fresh, compact
and very easygoing. —M.L.
86
Spadafora 2009 Vigna Fiego (Donnici);
$NA. This vineyard-designate blend of Montonico, Greco and Malvasia opens with bright freshness
and simple aromas of stone fruit and Golden Delicious
apple. This easygoing wine feels soft and smooth on the
close. —M.L.
85
persistence in the mouth. Imported by Banville & Jones
Wine Merchants. —M.L.
La Vis 2009 Intaglio (Trentino); $NA. This
screwcap red blend from northern Italy offers a
fantastic little package at a very attractive low price.
Pristine aromas of red berry and white cherry are offset
by subtle shadings of sweet spice and crushed mineral.
The wine drinks very well. Imported by F&F Fine
Wines International. Best Buy. —M.L.
88
Colacino 2009 Quarto (Calabria); $NA.
Here’s a thin and lightweight expression from
Calabria (the “toe of the boot of Italy”) that offers delicate tones of white flower and peach blossom backed by
fresh crispness and zest. It’s a very easygoing and informal wine overall. —M.L.
88
Tenuta del Conte 2009 Bianco (Cirò); $NA.
Cirò Bianco is a fresh white wine from Calabria
(the “toe of the boot of Italy”) that offers aromas of
white flower and stone fruit. It shows medium intensity
and a thin, easy feel in the mouth. Imported by
Domenico Selections. —M.L.
CENTRAL ITALY
84
84
Grotta del Sole 2007 Asprinio di Aversa;
$NA. This is a unique wine that opens with aromas of caramel and butterscotch but it also offers
mature apricot, melon and candied fruit. The mouthfeel is short and compact but the acidity and bitter
almond flavors do keep it lively. Imported by Michael
R. Downey Selections. —M.L.
83
OTHER ITALIAN REDS
NORTHEAST ITALY
Alois Lageder 2004 MMIV Merlot (Alto
Adige); $NA. From the extraordinary Punggl
vineyard cru south of the town of Magrè at an altitude
of 790 feet above sea level, this rich, luscious and
refined Merlot is simply gorgeous. The mouthfeel is
soft, silky and rich and the high altitude has helped to
shape aromatic brightness and overall intensity. Beautiful. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
93
Alois Lageder 2006 Lindenburg Lagrein
(Alto Adige); $40. Lagrein is an indigenous
grape of the far north of Italy that remains deeply rooted
in the hearts and history of the people who live there.
This expression by the super-fussy and meticulous Alois
Lageder shows beautiful harmony and bright fruit aromas followed by spice and chewy ripeness in the mouth.
Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
89
Alois Lageder 2005 Lindenburg Lagrein
(Alto Adige); $40. Lagrein is a unique indigenous grape from northern Italy that offers plump, fruitforward aromas and smooth richness in the mouth. This
expression delivers all that within a very elegant and
pristine context. Pair this wine with bean and barely
soup or veal stew. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery
Direct. —M.L.
88
Cantina Terlano 2009 Pinot Nero (Alto
Adige); $NA. Pinot Nero (or Blauburgunder
as the Italian-German label reads) from the bicultural
and bilingual Alto Adige region of northern Italy
exhibits some of its finest and most elegant characteristics here. This bottle opens with delicate embroidery of
tiny berry nuances followed by beautiful freshness and
88
La Vis 2007 Ritratti Pinot Nero (Trentino);
$NA. Ritratti Pinot Nero is a flush and pristine
expression of this exceptional grape from northern Italy
that opens with tight berry, raspberry and floral aromas. The wine tastes crisp, tight and closes with a fine,
polished feel. Imported by F&F Fine Wines International. —M.L.
Ca’ del Bosco 2006 Pinéro (Sebino); $NA.
From 29-year-old Pinot Nero vines, Pinéro is an
elegant and fine still red wine produced by one of Italy’s
most celebrated sparkling wine houses. Polished and
finessed down to the smallest detail (those tiny berry
aromas come forth so clearly), this wine shows the
potential of the Burgundian variety in Italy. Imported
by Terlato Wines International. —M.L.
92
Perticaia 2006 Sagrantino (Montefalco
Sagrantino); $50. Here’s a bold and beautiful
expression from the tiny hamlet of Montefalco in
Umbria that opens with dynamic cherry fruit and sweet
spice aromas. You’ll recognize immediate tones of clove
and cinnamon wrapped within chewy black fruit.
Imported by North Berkeley Imports. —M.L.
91
Castello di Luzzano 2006 Romeo Riserva
(Gutturnio Colli Piacentini); $38. This Riserva blend of Barbera and Bonarda offers loads of
bright fruit with layers of white cherry, cassis, crushed
peppercorn and dried violets. There is a sour point on
the close that suggests a pairing with a cream or cheesebased dish. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
88
Rivera 2008 Rupicolo(Castel del Monte);
$12. Made with a 70-30 blend of Montepulciano
and Nero di Troia grapes (the first adds softness and the
latter gives structure), Rupicolo is a bargain buy and a
great pairing partner to oven-roasted pasta or meatloaf.
It’s an easygoing wine but its natural density and sunny
insides help give it a modern, New World feel. Imported
by Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L.
87
Drei Donà 2009 Rosenere (Forlì); $NA. This
easy food wine (a blend of Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon) offers aromas of wild berry and
white almond. There’s a nice balance between crispness and a touch of sweetness on the close. —M.L.
85
Vino dei Fratelli 2008 Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo; $12. This easy Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo opens with ripe, jammy aromas of black
cherry, blackberry pie and moist pipe tobacco. The
wine is soft, slightly sweet and well structured on the
close. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L.
84
OTHER ITALIAN
WHITES
NORTHEAST ITALY
Tiefenbrunner 2009 Feldmarschall von
Fenner Müller-Thurgau (Vigneti delle
Dolomiti); $NA. Dedicated to local hero Feldmarschall von Fenner who fought against Napoleon,
this golden Müller Thurgau opens with bold notes of
Golden Delicious apple, pear, honey and mature
melon. The wine is smooth and rich with tangy sweet
notes on the finale. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.
88
Tenuta Luisa 2009 Friulano (Isonzo del
Friuli); $22. Friulano is a wonderfully unique
indigenous grape from northern Italy that deserves more
attention among those searching for a food-friendly
white wine with personality, persistency and staying
power. This expression offers a lighthearted interpretation with aromas of yellow rose, almond skin, stone fruit
and melon. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
87
CENTRAL ITALY
Masciarelli 2007 Castello di Semivicoli
(Trebbiano d’Abruzzo); $50. Named for a
beautifully restored castle and boutique hotel in
Abruzzo, this beautiful Italian white (made with Trebbiano grapes) shows a delicious creamy texture with
abundant aromas of stone fruit, honey and toasted
almond. The wine is thick and textured on the close.
Imported by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L.
91
Cantina Novelli 2009 Pecorino (Umbria);
$NA. Light and luminous with bright aromas
of yellow flower, peach and exotic fruit, this is a beautiful and powerful expression of Pecorino. This native
grape of central Italy is coming up in the world of
indigenous wines and offers a new experience for those
seeking the offbeat. Imported by Vinvino Wine. —M.L.
88
Fazi Battaglia 2007 Massaccio (Verdicchio
dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore);
$NA. Massaccio is a beautiful expression of Verdicchio
that focuses on ripe aromas of candied or exotic fruit,
toasted almond and apricot. It’s engineered as a bigger,
smoother and softer wine to pair with creamy chicken
dishes. Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.L.
88
Casale del Giglio 2009 Satrico (Lazio); $16.
This easy blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and
Trebbiano gets its name from the ancient Roman city of
Satricum. The wine opens with a luminous golden color
and bright aromas of stone fruit, melon and almond
skin. Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L.
87
Cantina Tudernum 2009 Grechetto di Todi
(Colli Martani); $NA. From the Todi area of
central Italy, this golden Grechetto opens with thick
aromas of apricot, honey, butterscotch and mature
melon. The wine sports a thick, creamy mouthfeel and
would pair with pumpkin risotto. —M.L.
85
La Canosa 2008 Servator Passerina
(Marche); $NA. Passerina is a little-known
grape from central Italy that offers good structure and
density in the mouth. It’s not necessarily aromatic, but it
does offer tones of almond skin, butterscotch and
Golden Delicious apple. —M.L.
85
Umberto Cesari 2009 Moma (Rubicone);
$17. Here’s a cheerful, no-fuss white blend from
central Italy (with Trebbiano, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grapes) that would pair with informal rice or
pasta salad. Citrus, floral and peach flavors wash over
the palate. Imported by Bedford International. —M.L.
84
Bigi 2009 Amabile (Orvieto Classico); $11.
Here’s a sweet white wine (the term Amabile
refers to the high sugar content) that opens with compelling notes of honey, acacia flower, peach and yellow
candy. It’s hard to imagine what to pair it with: It could
either go with fruit salad or salty crackers with cheese.
Imported by Opici Wines. —M.L.
83
SPARKLING WINES
Cesarini Sforza NV Tridentum Brut Rosé
Pinot Nero (Trento); $24. This luminous and
delicately pink sparkling wine from northern Italy delivers elegant notes of stone fruit, pink grapefruit,
chopped almond and freshly baked bread. Zesty acidity
is backed by creamy, persistent perlage. Imported by
F&F Fine Wines International. —M.L.
90
Banfi NV Brut (Italy); $NA. Guests of Castello
Banfi in Tuscany on a hot summer day are sometimes greeted with a glass of this classic method sparkling
wine. If ever there was a perfect pairing of wine to place,
this lighthearted, fresh and smooth sparkler would be it.
Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
88
Vigne Regali NV Pinot Brut (Italy); $NA.
Here’s an easy sparkling blend of Pinot Nero
and Pinot from Lombardy’s Oltrepò Pavese area in
northern Italy that shows cheerful but informal aromas
of cut grass, field flower, honey and stone fruit.
Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
86
CHILEAN REDS
CABERNETS & BLENDS
Almaviva 2007 Red Wine (Puente Alto);
$75. Dark, toasty and minerally to start with,
then throw in some olive, herb and cassis and it’s pure
Maipo Cabernet at its best. The palate is deep, layered
and lush, with a smooth, elegant yet lusty flow of cassis,
berry, olive and herbal flavors. Fine on the finish, with
mild barrel-influenced chocolate. Ready to drink but
could be cellared for another 4–5 years. Imported by
Diageo Chateau & Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
93
Santa Rita 2007 Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $75. For full review
see page 4. Editors’ Choice.
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92
Domus Aurea 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley); $60. Hails from Macul, so it
exhibits some normal eucalyptus on the nose along with
spice and pointed, slightly piercing berry aromas. The
palate is chewy, sweet, modern and ripe, with chunky
berry, herb, olive and particularly graphite flavors. Settles on big black fruit and depth. Outstanding Chilean
Cabernet with individuality. Best from 2013-2016.
Imported by Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
Errazuriz 2008 Viñedo Chadwick (Maipo
Valley); $260. Round, dark and impressive,
with deep berry aromas, minerality, smokiness and a
hint of herbs and tomato. The palate is jammy and rich,
what you might call syrupy, but there’s still plenty of
spine and structure. Tastes rich, jammy and masculine,
with blackberry, coffee and spice notes. Drink now
through 2017. Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.S.
92
Concha y Toro 2009 Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley);
$22. A real beauty with graphite, minerality and rich,
clean, exciting berry fruit and controlled oak aromas.
Very pure and stylish Cabernet Sauvignon with fat but
balanced cassis and sweet berry flavors. Big tannins
lend structure and framework; young like a baby now;
will be better and more evolved come fall, winter and
over the next few years. Imported by Banfi Vintners.
Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
91
2008 Le Dix de Los Vascos (Colchagua Valley); $50. For full review see page 5. Imported by
Pasternak Wine Imports.
91
Santa Rita 2008 Medalla Real Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $20. For full
review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.
91
Apaltagua 2008 Signature Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $30. Lively, fresh
and spicy, with deep cassis and berry aromas. The
palate is a bit angular and bumpy in feel, but there’s no
issue with the wine’s berry, cassis and lightly herbal flavors. Finishes long, with elegance and balance. Drink
now through 2014. Imported by Global Vineyard
Importers. —M.S.
90
Caliboro Estate 2006 Erasmo (Maule Valley); $30. A little lean and fiery from nose to
tail, but amid all the heavyweights coming from Chile
that might be a good thing. The palate is tight, acidic
and fresh, with an Old World mouthfeel and flavors of
dried berry, earth, tobacco and spice. Snappy and crisp
on the finish, with a final wave of propelling acidity.
Drink now through 2014. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.S.
90
Cousiño-Macul 2006 Lota Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $85. Displays a lot of
Macul-driven eucalyptus on the nose, but also leather,
licorice and herb aromas. The color is dark, and the
structure and tannins are both firm. Tastes of powerful
cassis and blackberry and shows concentration. Finishes
thick, smooth and a touch syrupy. Drink now through
2014. Imported by Winebow. —M.S.
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90
Haras 2007 Elegance (Maipo Valley); $62.
Dark and earthy up front, with aromas of blackWineMag.com | 27
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BUYING GUIDE
berry, hard spices and fresh tomato. The palate is
jammy and deep, with brimming tannins supporting
earthy, woodsy flavors of blackberry, moss and licorice.
Flattens out somewhat on the finish, turning heavier
and more rich. Drink over the next two years. Imported
by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.S.
El Huique 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Colchagua Valley); $13. Bright and zesty
raspberry aromas bring a hint of leather and cheese.
The palate is creamy and solid, with sweet, lightly candied flavors of red berry and cassis. Finishes with gravitas and balance as well as perky cherry and raspberry
flavors. Imported by Vidalco International, LLC. Best
Buy. —M.S.
89
François Lurton 2008 Gran Araucano
Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley);
$35. Warm, baked and dusty on the nose, with black
cherry and cassis along with brick dust, olive and spice
aromas. The palate is healthy and full, with punchy,
snappy flavors of cherry, raspberry and spiced marmalade. Creamy, sweet and rooty on the finish. Drink
now through 2015. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
89
Santa Carolina 2008 Reserva de Familia
Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $20.
Perfectly good and very much as expected. The nose is
firm, crusty and a bit herbal in that patented Maipo
way. The flavors are a mix of dark berry, cassis, herbs
and medicinality, while the mouthfeel is solid. Very nice
Cabernet for the money; the only quibble is that it’s
highly regular and not all that individual or unique.
Imported by Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
89
Errazuriz 2009 Single Vineyard Don Maximiano Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Aconcagua Valley); $21. Big, herbal and rich on the
nose, with minerality and a lot of olive and black-fruit
aromas. The palate is round, full-bodied and chewy,
with ample oak, herbal flavors and blackberry. Tasty,
robust and not short on oak and herbal notes. In a
word, it’s Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon. Imported by
Vintus LLC. —M.S.
88
Santa Rita 2008 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $12. For full review
see page 8. Best Buy.
88
Botalcura 2006 La Porfia Grand Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel Valley); $21.
Earthy and dry on the bouquet, but there’s an appealing
subtlety to the nose that works. The palate is snappy
and edgy, with juicy, lightly herbal raspberry flavors.
Finishes on the tight and light side, with a touch of
green. Good wine but could use a boost of ripeness.
Imported by Specialty Cellars. —M.S.
87
Caliterra 2009 Bio-Sur Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley); $14. A touch
syrupy and saucy on first blush, with a full, healthy, ripe
palate that’s typically Chilean due to herb, berry and
leather flavors. Sound, smooth and driven on the finish,
with overall good vibrations for an organic wine.
Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S.
87
O. Fournier 2009 Urban Maule Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maule Valley); $13. A nice
Cabernet for everyday usage largely because it’s balanced, mild and under total control. The nose is pure
red fruits with a touch of leather, while the palate is
snappy, alert and full of tight, almost narrow cherry flavors and fine tannins. Dry and light on the finish.
Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.
87
Santa Alicia 2008 Gran Reserva de los
Andes Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $15. Cassis, olive and a hint of nail polish make
for a solid, Chilean-style nose. The palate has a firm,
juicy feel and nice flavors of raspberry and plum followed by secondary notes of woodspice and vanilla.
Peppery and a little resiny on the finish. Imported by
Halby Marketing. —M.S.
87
Undurraga 2009 Aliwen Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon-Syrah (Rapel Valley); $12. Nice
aromas of floral berry, creamy vanilla and smoky spice
work well. The palate is zesty, tight and forward, with
saucy red berry flavors and olive. Long, zingy, zesty and
saucy on the finish, with herbs, spice and chocolaty flavors. A nice and eager blend of 60% CS and 40% Syrah.
Imported by Vision Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S.
87
Undurraga 2006 Founder’s Collection
Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $40.
Fairly earthy on the nose, with some compost and leafiness to go with chunky berry fruit aromas. The palate is
full, simple, chunky and a touch choppy, with cherry,
raspberry and vanilla flavors. Creamy if a bit sticky on
the finish, but mature and ready to drink. Imported by
Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
87
Vistamar 2007 Gran Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon-Syrah (Maipo Valley); $20. Berry,
hickory and milk chocolate aromas yield smoky darkness
with candied sweetness. The palate is staunch, but those
chocolate and berry flavors hinted at up front reappear
and finish in medicinal fashion. A sweet and creamy wine
but also one that’s hard and tannic. 70% Cab with 30%
Syrah. Imported by Morande USA. —M.S.
87
Misiones de Rengo 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Rapel Valley); $13.
Meaty and roasted on the nose, with rubbery plum and
blackberry aromas. This is a full-force wine with clacky,
firm tannins and herbal flavors of cassis and dark berry.
Finishes roasted, with an herbal character. Lively but
coarse feeling. Imported by Total Beverage Solution.
—M.S.
86
Morandé 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $11. After a murky,
rubbery opening, it finds its slot, which is standard-issue
red-berry aromas and flavors. On the edges there are
notes of pepper, herbs, vanilla and cocoa. Fresh,
snappy, juicy wine. Seems complete and solid.
86
Vistamar 2009 Sepia Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $10. For full
review see page 9. Best Buy.
86
Morandé 2009 Pionero Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $8. Dry and reedy
smelling, with juicy berry-cherry aromas and flavors.
The wine is snappy, zesty and juicy, with accents of
cocoa and pepper. Clean, simple Cabernet with ample
pop and freshness. Imported by Morande USA. Best
Buy. —M.S.
85
Odfjell 2009 Armador Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $12. A bit sharp and
rubbery at first, with herbal, floral, berry aromas rising
up in due time. The palate is a little rigid, with angular
acidity and semitart raspberry and red currant flavors.
Lightly toasted on the finish even if there’s not much
oak on this regular, competent CS. Imported by Select
Fine Wine. —M.S.
85
Quasar 2007 Gran Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Central Valley); $10. A little
minty, raisiny and flat on the nose, but still it’s appealing. The palate has a condensed, syrupy feel and soft,
semisweet flavors of red berry mixed with herbs and
pepper. Spicy and a touch hollow on the finish, but still
a good value Cab to drink now. Imported by Ace Distributing. Best Buy. —M.S.
85
Odfjell 2009 Babor Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley); $8. Light berry, cheese and
spice aromas are just clean enough; the palate is solid
and well built for an $8 Cab, with chunky, candied,
herbal flavors of plum and berry. Finishes dry and
mostly clean. Delivers what you expect and probably a
little more. Imported by Select Fine Wine. Best Buy.
—M.S.
84
Tamaya 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon
(Limarí Valley); $17. A strange bird from the
northern Limarí Valley, which just might be too cool
and windy for fully ripe Cab. This is hard and a bit
chemical on the nose, and then scratchy and clipped in
the mouth, with herbal cherry and black plum flavors
along with a fair amount of minty green. Imported by
Ecovalley Quality Wine Group and National Refrescos
Import Company, LLC.—M.S.
84
CARMENÈRE
De Martino 2009 Alto de Piedras Single
Vineyard Carmenère (Maipo Valley); $45. A
big, earthy type of wine with a ton of ripeness and heft.
Smells like pure black olive, earth and smoked meat.
The palate is tight but friendly as it delivers big doses of
herb, tea, chocolate and black fruit flavors. About as
deep and long in the mouth as this variety gets; proof
that Maipo can produce the occasional excellent Carmenère. Imported by Opici Wines. —M.S.
90
Andes Carmenère (Maipo Valley); $15.
Dark cherry, berry and a certain level of sweetness give
this wine a ripe opening. The palate is fruity and a
touch buttery due to full oak, while the flavors are also
oaky but fold in spice, carob and berry flavors. Dry and
peppery on the finish. Imported by Halby Marketing.
—M.S.
88
Viña Bisquertt 2008 Ecos de Rulo Carmenère (Colchagua Valley); $17. Opens
with ample black fruit and coconutty oak aromas, herbs
and black pepper dust. The palate has a fairly refined
feel along with flavors of candied black fruits, coffee,
coconut and pepper. Finishes with a creamy, lactic oak
influence. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. —M.S.
87
De Martino 2008 Legado Reserva Carmenère (Maipo Valley); $16. Herb, toasty
oak, mineral and berry aromas precede a snappy, crisp
sort of palate that’s showing mostly herbal, toasty flavors
of red berry and plum. The wine is good but regular in
its approach, with a dry, peppery finish. Imported by
Opici Wines. —M.S.
86
El Huique 2008 Reserve Carmenère (Colchagua Valley); $18. Leafy and a bit sharp
smelling, with hints of turned earth and compost along
with fuller berry notes. The palate is round and healthy,
with candied raspberry, plum and herbal flavors. Finishes herbal and dry. Imported by Vidalco International,
LLC. —M.S.
85
Carmenère (Central Valley); $10. For full
85
Misiones de Rengo 2009 Reserva Carmenère (Central Valley); $13. A little sharp
smelling, with earth, leafiness and rubbery aromas. In
the mouth, it’s round and fairly balanced, with juicy
acidity and herbal-olive flavors along with blackberry.
Dark and herbal on the finish. Imported by Total Beverage Solution. —M.S.
85
Odfjell 2009 Armador Carmenère (Maipo
Valley); $12. More herbal and plodding than
prior vintages, with slightly pickled, briney flavors of
blackberry, plum, olive and cough drop. Good in the
mouth, with proper size and balance. Finishes a little
green and peppery, but that’s Carmenère, folks, like it
or leave it. Imported by Select Fine Wine. —M.S.
85
Caliterra 2009 Bio-Sur Carmenère (Colchagua Valley); $14. Sweaty and murky
smelling, with leather, horse and earthy berry aromas.
The palate is big and dense, with grabby tannins and
then herbal, roasted berry flavors with green notes. Finishes peppery and mildly green. An herbal, old-style
Carmenère. Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S.
84
El Huique 2008 Carmenère (Colchagua
Valley); $13. Fairly rubbery and funky on the
nose, with a juicy, edgy palate that sports tangy, herbal
cherry and raspberry flavors in front of a high-acid,
tangy and mildly bitter finish. Choppy and herbal, but
still a decent rendition of Carmenère. Imported by
Vidalco International, LLC. —M.S.
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Cantora 2009 Carmenère (Colchagua Valley); $10. The nose is herbal and drawn but
offers varietally correct cherry, berry and spice aromas.
The wine runs ultracrisp and sheering in the mouth,
with tart redfruit and herbal flavors of olive and mint.
Seems more sharp and acidic than ideal. Imported by
Matadorvino LLC. —M.S.
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CARIGNAN
Oveja Negra 2008 Single Vineyard Carignan (Maule Valley); $18. Meaty and staunch
on the nose, with a slight soupy quality to go with strawberry and raspberry aromas. The palate is thick and
sturdy, with earthy, old-school flavors of berry fruits,
mineral and dry earth. Finishes slightly baked and
sweet. Another good old-vines (40 years) Carignan from
Maule. Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
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Santa Carolina 2008 Dry Farming Specialties Carignan (Cauquenes Valley); $15.
Black olive and lightly baked berry and cassis aromas
honestly reflect the wine’s Cauquenes old-vines roots.
The mouth is tight, granular and jammy, with bold flavors of raisin, plum and berry. This is pretty rich and
red-fruited, with a sweet side and controlled medicinal
touches. Imported by QW Wine Experts. —M.S.
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Undurraga 2008 T.H. Carignan (Maule Valley); $20. Floral and smoky, with elegance and
mineral components to the nose. From 60-year-old dryfarmed vineyards in Maule, this is punchy and acidic,
but also full of bright cassis, red plum and cherry flavors. Creamy oak gives it a vanilla-like finish, and overall it’s more than solid but a little astringent and tart.
Imported by Undurraga USA. —M.S.
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Meli 2008 Carignan (Maule Valley); $15.
Olive, herbs and baked berry aromas vie with
slightly stemmy scents to create a good but compromised bouquet. The palate has a full feel and juiciness
along with medicinal cherry and berry flavors. Finishes
toasty, baked and somewhat sharp and herbal.
Imported by Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
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MALBEC
Santa Helena 2008 Vernus Malbec (Colchagua Valley); $17. A little oaky and leathery at
first, but as a whole this wine sings a nice song. The
palate is firm and structured, with a lot of forward oak
as well as juicy wild blackberry flavors. Lightly roasted
and salinic on the finish, with length. Imported by Misa
Imports. —M.S.
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Viña Pérez Cruz 2009 Cot Limited Edition
Malbec (Maipo Valley); $20. Interesting
largely because it’s Malbec (or Cot). Aromas of fine herbs
and purple flowers are light and elegant; the palate is
weightless and smooth, with redfruit flavors and chocolate notes. Finishes soft and creamy; drink now.
Imported by South American Wine Importers. —M.S.
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Lomas del Valle 2010 Unfiltered Malbec
(Casablanca Valley); $16. Overall this is one
concentrated, hefty, grapey youngster that’s unfiltered
and untamed. The palate is lush, heavy and tannic,
while the flavors are grapey and saturated. Finishes
with chunky dark berry flavors as elegance and timidity
are nowhere to be found. Imported by GOS Wines and
BMC Imports.—M.S.
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Chilensis 2009 Reserva Malbec (Maule Valley); $12. Purple in color, with grapey aromas
that lack complexity. The palate is deep and dense but
edgy, with sugary flavors of candied black plum and
black cherry. Finishes sweet like burnt brown sugar,
with some coffee and anisette. Syrupy but generous.
Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
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Calcu 2009 Malbec (Colchagua Valley);
$12. A funky nose of wet dog and medicinal
cherry is no place you want to begin. The palate is high
in acidity and scratchy, with tart plum, berry and cheekstarching tannins. Tastes reasonably good but fails in
the bouquet and mouthfeel departments. Imported by
Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
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MERLOT
TerraNoble 2008 Gran Reserva Merlot
(Maule Valley); $18. Like all Terranoble reds,
this begins with charred, lemony aromas of burnt toast,
black coffee and smoke. As the oak blows off, it reveals
an underbelly of black fruit, floral notes and exotic spices.
It’s deep and meaty, with blackberry and black cherry
flavors. Finishes earthy and herbal, with black olive and
chocolate flavors. Imported by Winebow. —M.S.
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Emiliana 2008 Eco Balance Merlot (Rapel
Valley); $9. Flowery and herbal, with standard
redberry aromas. Healthy and juicy, with herbal blueberry, blackberry and chocolate flavors. Finishes with a
final dose of herbal character, earth and good layering
and feel. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
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Emiliana 2009 Natura Merlot (Rapel Valley); $11. Fairly hard on the nose, with a hint
of plastic and then raspberry and plum aromas rising as
it settles. The palate shows decent zest and body along
with narrow flavors of berry and pepper. Finishes with
mild intensity and a note of saline. Imported by Banfi
Vintners. —M.S.
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Morandé 2008 Gran Reserva Merlot
(Maipo Valley); $16. Big, oaky and roasted up
front, with charred aromas. The palate is full but clacky,
with piercing acidity leading to a saucy, sharp set of
tangy red berry and herb flavors. There’s a chocolaty
element to smooth things out on the finish, but it’s
always snappy and sheer. Imported by Morande USA.
—M.S.
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Andes Merlot (Maipo Valley); $15. Warm,
earthy and baked smelling, with aromas of black olive
and herbal raspberry fruit. The palate is tight, regular,
acidic and snappy, with sweet, herbal cherry flavors.
Finishes with hints of olive and green herbs. Imported
by Halby Marketing. —M.S.
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Santa Rita 2008 Reserva Merlot (Maipo
Valley); $12. Leafy, dry and earthy on the nose,
with a hint of flowery red fruit. The palate rings with
sharp acidity, which livens up blackberry, herb, black
tea and carob flavors. Shows a lot of wayward, unintegrated oak on the finish but stays bright due to juicy
acidity. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.S.
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Odfjell 2009 Armador Merlot (Maipo Valley); $12. Sharp on the nose, with herbal, cabbage-like aromas. The palate is better, albeit rubbery in
feel and infiltrated by bitter notes. Along the way,
there’s reasonably good berry fruit and then a piquant
bite to the finish. Improves with airing; has its merits.
Imported by Select Fine Wine. —M.S.
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Merlot (Central Valley); $10. Leafy cherry
aromas are herbal and a bit muddy. The palate is scratchy
and on the heavy side, with candied, woody berry flavors. Feels a little syrupy and medicinal; basic on its best
day. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
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Viña el Aromo 2009 Private Reserve Merlot (Maule Valley); $13. Opens with acrid,
rubbery aromas. The mouth shows astringency and
generic, rubbery berry fruit. Finishes with burnt flavors and bitterness. Ultimately it’s bringing the minimum in terms of what’s expected. Imported by Simone
International. —M.S.
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Indomita 2009 Selected Varietal Merlot
(Maipo Valley); $12. Green and funky
smelling, with a grassy, tomato character. Sticky and
unctuous on the palate, with a strange, weedy set of
red fruit flavors. Finishes creamy and weak; barely
acceptable but still not fresh or well balanced.
Imported by David Milligan Selections. —M.S.
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PINOT NOIR
Kingston Family 2009 Alazan Pinot Noir
(Casablanca Valley); $30. Always at the top of
the Chilean Pinot heap is this true, complex wine from
Kingston Family. The nose features light raspberry, citrus, oceanic brine and toasty, creamy oak. The palate is
lush and rolls across the tongue with ease; ripe fruit in
the cherry zone along with cocoa and spice make for
fine flavors. Finishes with purity, smooth tannins and
herbal twinges. Imported by Kingston Family Vineyards. —M.S.
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Matetic 2009 Corralillo Pinot Noir (San
Antonio); $28. Bold, dark and rubbery on the
nose, with a hint of citrus to go with black cherry. This
is full, thorough and upstanding on the palate, with
black fruit, licorice and cocoa flavors. Comes across
sweet and rich but balanced, with a layered, long finish.
Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
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Kingston Family 2009 Alazan CJ’s Barrel
Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley); $32. This
wine carries the same citrus and tea aromas as the regular Alazan bottling, but in the mouth it’s heavier and leans
toward overripe. Chewy, dark raspberry and cassis flavors
lead to a sweet, chunky finish with licorice, pepper and a
bit of heat. Very nice but the Alazan is better balanced.
Imported by Kingston Family Vineyards. —M.S.
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Leyda 2009 Lot 21 Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley); $35. Other than a slightly burnt and
stemmy nose, this is a nice Chilean Pinot. The bouquet
deals tea, raspberry and crushed leaves, but as stated,
also some burned rhubarb. Feels slightly syrupy and
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thick, with baked, herbal flavors of raspberry and strawberry. Falls off on the finish, where a bit of green enters
the picture. Imported by Winebow. —M.S.
Undurraga 2009 T.H. Pinot Noir (Leyda
Valley); $25. The first Pinot in Undurraga’s
Terroir Hunter series is lean, tart and zesty, but also
clean and pleasing in its own right. Tea and dried cherry
aromas yield to a spunky, lean palate of sharp raspberry
and orange peel flavors. Finishes light but clean, with
tartness. Imported by Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
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SYRAH/SHIRAZ
Concha y Toro 2009 Marques de Casa Concha Syrah (Maipo Valley); $22. This rich yet
direct Syrah hails from CyT’s Buin vineyards. It’s a dark,
chewy, lush style of New World Syrah with chunky,
sweet blackberry and mocha flavors that result from
ripe Maipo fruit and generous oak. Very likable but simple, without much of the leather, spice and animal that
Old World Syrah is known for. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.S.
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Errazuriz 2009 Single Vineyard Don Maximiano Estate Syrah (Aconcagua Valley);
$21. A strong oak covering gives the wine a bouquet of
milk chocolate, cream, vanilla and olive. It’s thick in the
mouth, with a round, stout palate that’s full of dark
berry flavors and jamminess. Baked, toasty and ripe on
the finish, with chewy density and meaty, herbal lasting
impressions. Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.S.
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Arboleda 2009 Syrah (Aconcagua Valley);
$19. Sweet, jammy and friendly on the nose,
with a bit of herbs, olive and leather. The palate is firm
and healthy, with some oaky residue along with jammy,
grainy blackberry, baked plum and bitter chocolate flavors. Sweet and chewy in terms of feel, with a nicely
baked overall character. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
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Tamaya 2009 Winemaker’s Selection Single Vineyard Syrah (Limarí Valley); $18.
Starts out mulchy and a little horsey before fine leather,
floral and sweet berry aromas take over. The palate is
jumpy and lively, with boysenberry, raspberry and
earthy flavors. Ripe and fruity, with snappy freshness
and candied, sappy red-fruit length. Imported by Ecovalley Quality Wine Group and National Refrescos
Import Company, LLC. Imported by Tamaya. —M.S.
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Undurraga 2009 T.H. Syrah (Leyda Valley);
$25. The essence of cool-climate Chilean Syrah
is on display and arguably goes overboard with this
sheer, tart, acid-dominated Leyda wine. It’s floral and
slightly medicinal smelling, with a sheer palate and tart,
foxy flavors of red berry and pie cherry. Finishes with
oceanic saltiness and a dusting of cocoa. Imported by
Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
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Caliterra 2009 Bio-Sur Shiraz (Colchagua
Valley); $14. Dark, muscular and concentrated, with char, rubber and blackberry aromas. Thick
but not soupy, with big tannins and firm acids. Flavors
of blackberry, cassis and dark plum are drawn, leaving
an oaky, minty finish. A good but arguably overextracted organic Shiraz. Imported by Buena Cepa
Wines. —M.S.
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Caliterra 2009 Reserva Shiraz (Colchagua
Valley); $NA. Warm and rubbery on the nose,
with earthy aromas of blackberry, black cherry and
freshly laid blacktop. The palate is full, tannic and
grapey, with dark fruit flavors and an herbal element.
Finishes short, herbal and salty, with lasting meatiness.
Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S.
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Veo 2008 Ultima Reserve Syrah (Colchagua Valley); $10. Standard value-priced
Chilean Syrah in that it’s herbal and leafy on the nose,
with a mix of olive, earth, spice and dried red fruit aromas. The palate is a bit stretched out and tannic, while
the flavor profile is pure olive, herbs and dried cherry.
Finishes solid but herbal. Imported by Prestige Wine
Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
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Los Molles 2009 Reserva Syrah (Limarí Valley); $16. Starts out a little sharp and heavy on
the olive aromas, but it brings enough freshness to override any roasted, herbal qualities that come with the
variety. The palate is big and chunky, with sweet, jammy
black fruit flavors. Long, chocolaty and slightly herbal on
the finish. Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
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Emiliana 2009 Natura Syrah (Rapel Valley);
$11. Inky and tight smelling, with rubbery
black-fruit aromas. The palate is full, tannic and a little
choppy, but the flavors of olive, blackberry, black cherry
and herbs are good. Finishes rustic and a touch salty,
with good bounce and verve. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
OTHER REDS
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Tamaya 2009 Reserva Syrah (Limarí Valley); $16. Floral aromas come with hints of
leather and rubber. The palate is fleshy and nicely balanced, while the flavors are a shy, miserly mix of saline,
earth, berry and olive. Finishes with an herbal-olive
note and overall modesty. Imported by Ecovalley Quality Wine Group and National Refrescos Import Company, LLC. —M.S.
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Corinto 2009 Selection Syrah (Central Valley); $16. Smells strange, as if juniper berries
were blended with tomato and weedy red fruits.
Scratchy and herbal in the mouth, with game and other
oddball flavors. Finishes gummy and confected, with a
final blast of green herbs and weeds. Imported by Specialty Cellars. —M.S.
Undurraga 2007 Altazor (Maipo Valley);
$60. A big, syrupy five-grape blend that delivers
the full allotment of baked, ripe berry aromas followed
by a firm, tannic palate housing serious flavors of blackberry, eucalyptus, olive and mineral. Very long and layered on the finish, with acidic zest to keep it pulsing.
Drink now through 2015. Imported by Vision Wine &
Spirits. —M.S.
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Errazuriz 2008 The Blend Limited Edition
(Aconcagua Valley); $35. Alluring on the
nose, with a ton of dried spice, mocha and tobacco aromas to go with beefy, berry fruit notes. Despite its darkness and size, this wine delivers bright, juicy acidity and
then herbal cassis and berry flavors. Tobacco, herbs and
length define the finish. A blend of five red grapes,
including Mourvèdre and Petit Verdot; drink now
through 2013. Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.S.
Chilcas 2008 Red One (Maule Valley); $25.
Meaty, dark and concentrated, with a smoky
bouquet that shows spice and berry aromas. The palate
is soft, lush and deep, with heavy flavors of blackberry,
tea, spice and pepper. Finishes easy and chocolaty, with
good length and drive. Drink now through 2012.
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Cousiño-Macul 2008 Finis Terrae (Maipo
Valley); $25. A serious, fairly rich wine with
grippy tannins and typical Maipo aromas of herbs,
tobacco and olive that meet at eucalyptus. Hails from
low-production old vines in Macul and Buin; the wine is
round and full in the mouth, with lightly roasted berry
flavors and touches of sweet caramel and chocolate on
the finish. Imported by Winebow. —M.S.
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Santa Alicia 2006 Millantu (Maipo Valley);
$28. Earthy and herbal on the nose, with a nice
blanket of leather to add rusticity to the wine’s core
cherry and raspberry aromas. The palate is full, chewy
and a touch candied, with roasted berry, herb and chocolate flavors. Finishes lightly roasted as well; drink now.
Imported by Select Brands International, Inc. —M.S.
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François Lurton 2008 Hacienda Araucano
Clos de Lolol (Lolol Valley); $23. An earthy,
dense four-grape blend that issues floral, cherry aromas in front of a creamy, candied palate that sports
generic but nice plum, berry and cherry flavors. A
smooth wine but one without much complexity; seems
to have lost some of its identity in the blending process.
Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
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gnon, Carmenère, Malbec and Syrah. Imported by Specialty Cellars. —M.S.
lasts on the finish and mixes the best of leesy weight
and tropicality. Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.S.
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Las Lomas 2007 Malbec-Syrah (Maule Valley); $13. This unusual combo of Malbec and
Syrah starts with hickory and campfire aromas and then
medicinality enters the picture. The palate is choppy
and features many holes in the road, but there’s also
solid black fruit flavors along with cocoa and berry
syrup on the finish. In addition, the acidity seems high.
Imported by AMG Organic Imports, LLC. —M.S.
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CHILE WHITES
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SAUVIGNON BLANC
Casas del Bosque 2010 Pequeñas Producciones Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $25. Rare is the Chilean SB that rises high
enough to be called gorgeous, but this wine is just that.
New Zealand-born winemaker Grant Phelps has
crafted a bright, bold, citric Sauvignon that’s crisp as a
mountain stream and endowed with tangy, lovely flavors
of tangerine, lime, pineapple and green apple. Long
and delicious; a cut above the rest. Imported by
Vinocopia. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
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Montes 2010 Limited Selection Sauvignon
Blanc (Leyda Valley); $15. This SB has one of
Chile’s best track records for high quality. The nose and
flavors both exceed norms, with the former showing
bold citrus, lime and melon aromas and the latter
revolving around grapefruit, lime and gooseberry. It’s
ripe, healthy, pithy, acid-driven and piercing. Summer
sipping calls. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. Best
Buy. —M.S.
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Casas del Bosque 2010 Reserva Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $12. For full
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Casas del Bosque 2010 Gran Reserva
Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $16.
Piercing and pungent up front, with sharp-edged aromas of nettle, lime, arugula and green bean. The palate
is lithe and crisp, with green-leaning flavors of lettuce,
lime and passion fruit. Lasting on the finish, with bell
pepper and celery. A prime example of cool-climate
Chilean SB. Imported by Vinocopia. —M.S.
Oveja Negra 2008 The Lost Barrel (Maule
Valley); $25. Wiry on the nose, with herbal,
punchy, slightly strained red fruit aromas that suggest
rhubarb. The palate is amorphous and standard, with
lightly baked, mildly stewy blackberry and herbal flavors. On the finish, it’s pure tobacco, chocolate and coffee. Syrah, Carignan, Carmenère and Petit Verdot.
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Viña Requingua 2009 Toro de Piedra
Reserva Syrah-Cabernet (Curicó Valley);
$14. Blackberry and balsam wood are the key aromas,
but there’s a pinch of cumin in there too. The palate is
wide, broad and tannic, with leathery, roasted flavors of
dark berry and black plum. Finishes savory and a bit
salty, with a clacky, hard, tannic residue. Imported by
Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S.
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Botalcura 2006 Cayao (Central Valley);
$60. Rather hard and baked on the nose, with a
heavy helping of char and molasses. The palate is angular and tannic, while the flavors revolve around lemony
oak and spice more than fruit. Spiky on the finish and
sharp-edged as a whole. A blend of Cabernet Sauvi-
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Chilcas 2010 Single Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $18. Clean on the
nose, with pure citrus and minerality. It’s full but not
heavy in the mouth, with developed, mature flavors of
grapefruit and other citrus fruits. Mildly pithy, green
and long on the finish. Not a prima ballerina; this has
force and strength along with elegance. Imported by
Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
Errazuriz 2010 Single Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $16. Bright,
bursting aromatics of green apple, white peach and
summer grass are pungent yet controlled. The palate
has a fresh, friendly feel that supports papaya, passion
fruit and lime flavors. This is full of pop and typicity; it
Chilcas 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $13. Pure grapefruit and
other citrus fruits make for an inviting bouquet. The
palate is pure, round, fresh and full of green melon,
citrus and passion fruit flavors. Overall this is ripe but
properly green, with a hint of pithy lime and mineral on
the finish. Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. Best
Buy. —M.S.
Montes 2010 Classic Series Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $12. Lime, mineral and green herbs combine to create a nice aromatic
opening. The palate is juicy and healthy, with flavors of
jalapeño, lime and green apple. Finishes solid and quite
long for a basic SB. Well made and tasty. Imported by
T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
Odfjell 2010 Armador Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $12. Odfjell previously
struggled a bit with SB but this one is quite good and
correct. It features green aromas of lime and herbs with
some minerality folded in. The palate is zesty and lively,
with lime and green apple flavors. Finishes in direct
fashion. Drink soon. Imported by Select Fine Wine.
Best Buy. —M.S.
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Peñalolen 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $12. Clear, breezey tangerine and grapefruit aromas roll out the red carpet on
this crisp, citrusy SB that pours on the green fruit and
scallion flavors. The palate is both round and crisp, and
the finish is long and juicy. For fresh, citrusy, varietally
correct Sauvignon Blanc, it’s hard to do better. Imported
by Global Vineyard Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
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Quintay 2010 Clava Coastal Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $10.
Although it’s standard in many ways, sometimes regularity done right works. In this case, the wine brings tropical
aromas along with saline and green herbs. In the mouth,
it’s fresh and briney, with tropical fruit, citrus and green
notes. Tangy and pure; nice for the price. Imported by
Montecastelli Selections. Best Buy. —M.S.
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Chilensis 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $12. Light green aromas
of melon and lime are nice, while the palate is solid
and full of lime and pithy grapefruit flavors. Like many
Chilean SBs, this is salinic, citrusy and pithy, but also
round as well as clean. Drink right away. Imported by
Vici Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S.
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Cono Sur 2010 Visión Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $15. Tropical fruits and
a mix of grass and green herbs make for a nice bouquet.
The palate on this Casablanca wine is juicy and round,
not pointy, with citrus and nectarine flavors. Finishes
with green apple tang; definitely gets the job done.
Imported by Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
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Emiliana 2010 Eco Balance Sauvignon
Blanc (Bío Bío Valley); $9. For full review see
page 9. Best Buy
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BUYING GUIDE
Errazuriz 2010 Estate Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $12. Snappy, crisp and
green on the nose, but well balanced and showing the
good side of Chilean SB, which is oceanic, fresh, green
and citrusy. Flavors of lime, grapefruit and passion fruit
are true, while the finish is fruity at first before breaking
up. Imported by Vintus LLC. Best Buy. —M.S.
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Morandé 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $11. For full review see
page 9. Best Buy.
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Veramonte 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $12. For as long as Chile
has been taken seriously for its SBs, Veramonte has been
a value leader. This wine is a bit softer and less pungent
than previous efforts, but it’s still tangy and shows good
green apple and melony flavors. Finishes more flat and
fleshy than in the past, so drink right away. Imported by
Huneeus Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
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Cono Sur 2010 Organically Grown Grapes
Sauvignon Blanc (San Antonio); $13. Light,
mellow aromas don’t go much beyond green fruits and
orange blossom. Round and easy in the mouth, with
melony, reluctant flavors of honeydew and peach. Lean
on the finish, with some jalapeño heat. Pretty much
average for Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. Imported by
Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
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2 0 1 0 L o s Va s c o s S a u v i g n o n B l a n c
(Casablanca Valley); $14. Pungent and sweaty
smelling, with nettle and other sharp aromas. Surprisingly, the palate is short on acidity so there’s a flat feel
along with green, salinic flavors that border on vegetal.
For proof, there’s a clear wave of asparagus to the finish. Not as good as in past years. Imported by Pasternak
Wine Imports. —M.S.
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Emiliana 2010 Natura Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $11. Pithy and citrusy
on the nose, but ultimately it’s rather neutral. The
palate is citric and lean, with orange, lemon and sour
apple flavors. Zesty to the point of tartness, with a citrusy, juicy finish. A pointed SB with zing. Imported by
Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
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Loma Larga 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $15. Minerally on the
nose but also slightly pickled, with a wet but basic tasting palate that is a touch dilute as it deals grapefruit
and lime flavors. Finishes clean, fruity and a bit sweet.
Imported by GOS Wines and BMC Imports. —M.S.
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Lomas del Valle 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley); $13. Opens with aromas of lettuce, underripe peach and mineral water.
The palate is healthy and crisp, with lemony acids and
fresh flavors of green fruits and lettuce leaf. Clean but
lightly bitter. Imported by GOS Wines and BMC
Imports. —M.S.
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Vistamar 2010 Sepia Reserva Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $10. Mildly tropical on the nose and pleasant overall, with a touch of
match stick to the bouquet. The palate is lemony and
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sheer, with flavors of Meyer lemon, white peach and
apple. Pointed on the finish but clean. Good but normal
in the scheme of things. Imported by Morande USA.
Best Buy. —M.S.
Yali 2010 Wetland Winemaker’s Selection
Sauvignon Blanc (Rapel Valley); $8. Salinic
and also melony on the mostly clean and crisp nose.
The palate is healthy, with round, lightly pithy flavors of
green melon, peach and kiwi. Citrusy on the finish and
a little green on the fade out. Good for summer
quaffing. Drink this year. Imported by Austral Wines.
Best Buy. —M.S.
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Santa Ema 2010 Selected Terroir Sauvignon Blanc (Maipo Valley); $10. Clean yet
dilute on the bouquet, with touches of lime and grassiness. The palate, however, is kind of heavy and honeyed, a direct reflection of its warm Maipo roots. Tastes
sweet and creamy but without much zesty fruit. Maybe
a little too soft and candied, but still pretty good.
Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
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La Playa 2010 Estate Bottled Sauvignon
Blanc (Colchagua Valley); $7. Kind of bland
and regular, but on the plus side it’s fresh, feline and
green, with lightly pickled gooseberry flavors. Fleshy
and wan on the palate but with no glaring issues or off
flavors. Drink now. Imported by Cabernet Corporation.
Best Buy. —M.S.
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CHARDONNAY
Cono Sur 2010 Visión Block: Tío Leo Single
Vineyard Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley);
$15. Melony and tropical on the nose, which is standard for Chile. The palate is smooth and extended, with
citrus and green melon flavors. Finishes juicy, citrusy
and melony, with no shortage of fruit and not too much
oak. Solid and enjoyable; drink as soon as possible.
Imported by Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
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Emiliana 2010 Eco Balance Chardonnay
(Casablanca Valley); $9. Fleshy, melony and
tropical smelling, with a bit of warm radiator dust. The
palate is plump but maintains a level of freshness, zest
and clarity. Tastes citrusy up front and then shows a
softer, more melony side. Quite good for under $10.
Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
87
Emiliana 2010 Natura Un-oaked Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); $11. For full review
see page 8. Best Buy.
87
Emiliana 2010 Novas Limited Selection
Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); $15. It’s
not easy distinguishing one Emiliana Chardonnay from
the other; they’re all more or less similar. Novas shows a
touch of match stick and aromatic harshness, which is
offset by softer melon and peach aromas. The palate is
full and pulpy, with melony, obtuse flavors. Good for
Chile, and decidedly not bitter or pithy. Imported by
Banfi Vintners. —M.S.
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Veramonte 2009 Reserva Chardonnay
(Casablanca Valley); $12. Toasty but nice on
the nose, with mineral, lemon, green banana and melon
aromas to ponder. The palate is full but low in acidity,
thus it’s soft and starting to fade. In the meantime,
there are woody, toasty flavors mixed with sweet pear
and banana on the finish. Imported by Huneeus Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
Viña el Aromo 2009 Private Reserve
Chardonnay (Maule Valley); $13. Aromas of
lemon, buttercup and mild oak support core baked
apple and vanilla flavors. The wine offers good mouthfeel and overall balance, while the finish is lightly
woody, long and honest. For Chile this is a tasty, wellmade and balanced Chardonnay. Imported by Simone
International. —M.S.
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Cono Sur 2009 Organically Grown Grapes
Chardonnay (San Antonio); $13. Apple and
peach aromas are on the spot. The body here is round
and healthy, while the flavors are tropical leaning, with
melon and peach in the background. Smooth and fresh
on the finish, and good as a whole. Imported by Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
86
Santa Ema 2009 Reserve Chardonnay
(Casablanca Valley); $14. Peachy and solid
on the nose, with a pinch of oak and white pepper. The
palate is generally smooth, with sweet spiced apple and
pithy flavors. Banana, pith, vanilla and melon flavors
work the finish, which starts out strong then breaks up
on the fade. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
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Ventisquero 2009 Reserva Chardonnay
(Casablanca Valley); $10. Pretty good, sturdy
and clean. The nose shows good white fruits and minerally notes, with a bit of toast. In the mouth, it’s healthy
and sweet, with tropical flavors of melon and papaya
along with creamy pear. Finishes sweet, with some
vanilla. Imported by Austral Wines. Best Buy. —M.S.
86
Santa Rita 2009 Reserva Chardonnay
(Casablanca Valley); $12. Fleshy, melony
scents kick it off. That set of aromas is followed by an
acidic, lively palate with generic, slightly mealy flavors
of peach, citrus and light oak. Long but a little bitter on
the finish, but with good acid-driven zest. Imported by
Palm Bay International. —M.S.
85
Haras 2009 Chardonnay (Maipo Valley);
$12. Neutral on the nose except for some
apple and cheesy oak. The palate is angular and tangy,
with cidery flavors. Finishes similarly, with lasting
acidic bite and zest. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine
Estates. —M.S.
84
Chilensis 2009 Reserva Chardonnay
(Maule Valley); $12. Tropical notes on the
nose are as good as it gets; otherwise it smells like air
freshener. In the mouth, it’s waxy and flat, with bland
apple and vanilla flavors. Finishes pithy. Imported by
Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
83
Chilcas 2009 Single Vineyard Chardonnay
(Casablanca Valley); $18. Generic and monotone on the nose. The palate is nothing more than wet
and chunky, while the flavors are soft, sweet and candied, with vanilla and toffee overriding any fruit. A
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creamy dullard with a lot of vanilla and hardly any
pulse. Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
Ventisquero 2009 Queulat Gran Reserva
Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); $15. Tan
in color and bland as a whole, with vanilla and pear aromas that do little to allure or entice. Strained and pickled tasting, with a heavy, overdone overall style. Pushes
the definition of “acceptable.” Imported by Austral
Wines. —M.S.
81
Root:1 2009 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); $12. Oxidized and mute, with mushy,
nutty flavors and a similar finish. An underperformer
that lacks freshness, purity and character. Imported by
Winebow. —M.S.
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VIOGNIER
Los Molles 2010 Reserva Viognier (Limarí
Valley); $14. Very aromatic, to the point of
being flowery. The palate is sweet and dense, with a
heavy, round mouthfeel and candied mango, melon and
applesauce flavors. Finishes just pure enough, with
weight and pith entering the fray. Don’t wait long to
drink. Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
85
Viu Manent 2010 Secreto de Viu Manent
Viognier (Colchagua Valley); $14. Barely
noticeable lime and orange aromas sit mute on the
nose, which is reduced and artificial smelling. The
palate has a hard feel and generic flavors of white fruits.
Amid sweetness there’s a chemical bitterness. Not one
of this winery’s better products. Imported by Baystate
Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
82
Viña Bisquertt 2008 La Joya Reserve Viognier (Colchagua Valley); $12. Heavy and
soupy in its current state. This is one chunked-out white
wine that is barely hanging on with flavors of papaya
and dried-out peach. Has lost whatever freshness it may
have had. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. —M.S.
80
Viña el Aromo 2010 Viognier (Maule Valley); $9. Overly perfumed, with burnt notes,
wayward sulfur and acridness at the wine’s core. The
palate is fleshy and low in acidity, with bitterness to the
white fruit flavors that are none too clean. Offers very
little that’s redeeming. Imported by Simone International. —M.S.
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OTHER WHITES
Miguel Torres 2009 Cordillera Reserva Privada Barrel Fermented Chardonnay-Viognier (Chile); $17. Big and gold, with aromas of corn,
sweat and vegetal white fruits. This is soft, dull and rich
stuff, with an oaky, dry palate of apricot and papaya.
Seems over the hill already and it’s not yet two years
old. 88% Chard and 12% Viognier. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
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NEW ZEALAND
WHITES
CHARDONNAY
Kumeu River 2008 Maté’s V ineyard
Chardonnay (Kumeu); $47. The 2008 Maté’s
shows more lushness than typical for the vineyard, but
retains its hallmark lime-like acidity. It’s almost full bodied, with a creamy, lush mouthfeel and plenty of
roasted-nut complexity wrapped around melony fruit.
Finishes with lingering oak spice and citrus. Drink
now–2016. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
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Kumeu River 2008 Hunting Hill Chardonnay (Kumeu); $42. Full-bodied and lush, the
Hickory Hill is the most ebullient of the 2008s from
Kumeu River, laced with oak and lees embellishments
of toasted almonds, vanilla and hickory smoke yet balanced by rounded, melony fruit. It finishes long and
citrusy, suggesting it may evolve positively for at least a
few years. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
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Kumeu River 2008 Estate Chardonnay
(Kumeu); $35. A blend of several vineyard
parcels, Kumeu River’s Estate bottling is the best value
in the winery’s impressive lineup of 2008 Chardonnays.
It shows all of the toasty, leesy notes of the single-vineyard wines, medium body and a bright core of zesty
pineapple fruit. Drink now–2014. Imported by Wilson
Daniels Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
91
Kumeu River 2008 Coddington Chardonnay (Kumeu); $42. Perhaps the biggest of
Kumeu River’s 2008 Chardonnays, the Coddington
offers waves of tropical fruit—pineapple and carambola—allied to mouthfilling richness and balanced by
citrusy acids and hints of roasted nuts. Drink now.
Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
90
Man O’ War 2008 Chardonnay (Waiheke
Island); $19. Full-bodied and richly textured,
this is a mouthful of Chardonnay for the price, boasting
vibrant pineapple fruit and accents of toasty oak and
roasted nuts. Crisp, long and spicy on the finish. Drink
now. Imported by Gotham Wine Group. —J.C.
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Felton Road 2007 Chardonnay (Central
Otago); $42. This is a fine, easy-to-drink
Chardonnay. Subtle toast and cinnamon shadings
accent melon and citrus fruit, and the wine is full bodied yet remains crisp through the slightly oaky finish.
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Kumeu River 2008 Village Chardonnay
(Kumeu); $20. Kumeu’s entry-level Chardonnay shows less concentrated fruit and less oak influence
than its big siblings, but nonetheless displays ample
pineapple and pear fruit in a full-bodied format. The
oak is barely noticeable, making the wine straightforward and easy to drink. Imported by Wilson Daniels
Ltd. —J.C.
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Martinborough Vineyard 2008 Chardonnay (Martinborough); $40. A medium-bod-
ied Chardonnay with a slight lactic note to it, the 2008
Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay is crisp and long
on the finish, highlighting its flavors of vanilla and
pineapple. Might improve with another year or two in
the bottle. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.C.
PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO
Mountford 2008 Estate Pinot Gris
(Waipara); $24. The only trouble with this bargain-priced version of a vendange tardive Pinot Gris
will be finding some, as only 40 cases were imported. At
only 11.6% alcohol, there’s plenty of sugar left in the
wine (67 g/l), concentrated and enriched by the inclusion of 50% botrytis-affected fruit. The impressions are
of honeyed pineapple, ripe melon and peach preserves,
finishing long and sweet. Delicious now, but should still
be good 5–6 years down the road. Imported by Infinity
Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
91
Kumeu River 2009 Pinot Gris (Kumeu);
$21. The Brajkovich family’s 2009 Pinot Gris
finds a fine balance between sweetness, acidity and
alcohol, offering just enough of each. Melon flavors are
tinged with almondskin and a lingering touch of musky
spice on the finish. Fine on its own, or pair it with
dishes that are slightly sweet (shrimp) or spicy.
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Roaring Meg 2010 Pinot Grigio (Central
Otago); $16. A decent value in New Zealand
Pinot Gris, Roaring Meg’s 2010 is eminently drinkable,
balancing bright, vibrant passion fruit and nectarine flavors against hints of sugar and spice. It’s off dry in style at
11 g/l residual sugar, giving it a little extra heft on the
palate. Imported by American Estates Wines, Inc. —J.C.
87
Mt. Difficulty 2009 Pinot Gris (Central
Otago); $19. Nearly dry, this is a full-bodied,
slightly creamy-textured Pinot Gris. It’s a bit shy on the
nose, offering only modest melon and citrus notes, then
closes with hints of nuts and spice. Drink now.
Imported by American Estates Wines, Inc. —J.C.
86
Chasing Venus 2009 Pinot Gris (Marlborough); $16. Pretty typical New Zealand Pinot
Gris, featuring a fair bit of residual sweetness. There’s
plenty of weight and density in the mouth, but less
intensity of flavor and aroma, only hinting at almond,
honey and melon. Imported by JL Giguiere. —J.C.
85
RIESLING
Dry River 2009 Late Harvest Riesling (Martinborough); $55. Plump and slightly sweet,
this late-harvest Riesling comes in at 10% alcohol—
something along the lines of a rich spätlese in terms of
its alcohol-acid-sugar balance. Notes of pineapple and
crushed stone open up to melon fruit on the palate and
finish long, with a bit of cinnamon or ginger spice.
Imported by RO Imports LLC. —J.C.
90
Te Kairanga 2008 East Plain Riesling (Martinborough); $20. This wine appears to be at
its peak, showing some developed notes of kerosene to
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BUYING GUIDE
go with apple and citrus flavors. It’s medium-bodied
(12% abv) and just barely off dry (7.8 g/l). Enticing
notes of Earl Grey grace the nose, while the finish is
long, crisp and refreshing. Imported by Liquid Brands
LLC. —J.C.
Mohua 2008 Riesling (Central Otago); $15.
A solid effort from this value-oriented brand,
offering a bit of sweetness and breadth to match apple
and lime flavors. The mouthwatering finish shows just a
touch of bitterness, helping to balance out the residual
sugar. Drink now. Imported by Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
88
Nelson Bay 2009 Riesling (Nelson); $14.
Even at a considerable 15 g/l of residual sugar,
this wine comes across as almost dry, thanks to its crisp
acidity. Scents of petrichor, green apple and lime start
things off, while those razor-sharp acids show up on the
finish. Drink now. Imported by Testa Wines Of The
World. —J.C.
87
Mt. Beautiful 2009 Riesling (Canterbury);
$19. A simple, fresh and appealing Riesling,
light to medium in body and off dry in style. Apple and
citrus notes dominate, with some slightly riper melon
notes evident as well. Drink over the next few years.
Imported by Mistarr Wine Importers. —J.C.
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SAUVIGNON BLANC
Palliser Estate 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Martinborough); $18. Pungent and nettle-y, but
those elements are nicely counterbalanced by a
medium-bodied core of pineapple and fig. Finishes
pleasantly soft; easy to drink. Imported by Negociants
USA, Inc. —J.C.
88
Clifford Bay Estate 2009 Awatere Valley
Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $10.
Fresh and appealing, but definitely on the green side of
the Sauvignon Blanc spectrum. This medium-bodied
wine features pungent sweaty and grassy aromas, as
well as leafy, green-tomato flavors. Drink now.
Imported by Foley Family Wines. Best Buy. —J.C.
87
Discovery 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (East
Coast); $15. A light- to medium-bodied Sauvignon, the 2009 discovery is more delicate than many of
its counterparts, with hints of stuck flint, accenting
stone fruit and citrus flavors. Turns chalky and crisp on
the finish. Drink now. Imported by American Estates
Wines, Inc. —J.C.
87
Nelson Bay 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Nelson); $14. This medium-bodied Sauvignon
Blanc displays a range of flavors from nettles to citrus to
honey while remaining essentially dry. The leafy notes
really emerge on the finish, along with a chalky note.
Imported by Testa Wines Of The World. —J.C.
87
Winegrowers of Ara 2009 Resolute Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $26. Riper in
style than Ara’s Composite bottling, offering straightforward pineapple fruit and a clean, refreshing style. It’s
nicely balanced, with a mouthwatering finish. Drink
now. Imported by Winegrowers of Ara. —J.C.
86
Sea Breeze 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (East
Coast); $11. A light, perfectly quaffable Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, the 2009 Sea Breeze displays classic grapefruit and gooseberry notes, accented
by hints of tomato leaf. Finishes a bit short, but provides decent value. Imported by Marzano Imports,
LLC. —J.C.
85
Terroir 2009 by Ant Moore Sauvignon
Blanc (Marlborough); $10. Crisp and brisk
on the palate, with hints of grapefruit, melon and fig
accented by herbal, leafy notes. The flavors fade quickly
on the finish, but the wine makes for a pleasant apéritif.
Imported by Infinity Imports. Best Buy. —J.C.
85
Winegrowers of Ara 2009 Composite
Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $17. Peppery and sweaty upfront, backed up by white grapefruit notes. This is a light- to medium-bodied Sauvignon
with a zesty finish of chalk and lime. Imported by Winegrowers of Ara. —J.C.
touches of mushrooms and parsnips alongside attractive
wisps of cherry fruit. Fades quickly on the finish; drink
now. Imported by Winegrowers of Ara. —J.C.
Seifried 2007 Pinot Noir (Nelson); $28.
Starts off with appealing cherry and spice shadings, but adds some rustic, adhesive bandage notes that
build on the finish. Imported by Robert Whale Selections Inc. —J.C.
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SOUTH AFRICAN REDS
BLENDED REDS
Ernie Els 2006 Limited Release (Stellenbosch); $95. With only 336 cases imported,
this Limited Edition red should be snagged up when
seen. Herbal and fruity all at once with strong pepper
and oregano aromas spicing up the black berry and cassis core. A touch of sweet cured meat, licorice, leather
and roasted espresso appear on the finish, with assertive
tannins filling the creamy mouth and lingering through
the close. Drink now–2014. Imported by Terlato Wines
International. —L.B.
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Tiki Sound 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $13. Passion fruit, grapefruit and
capsicum all speak to this wine’s Marlborough origins.
It’s medium bodied and features a hint of creaminess
on the midpalate, then adds a hint of canned pineapple
on the finish. Imported by A.W. Direct. —J.C.
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84
Kumeu River 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Kumeu); $19. Sauvignon Blanc has never
been a focus at Kumeu River, and this is an overly lean,
green and underripe rendering. Imported by Wilson
Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
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NEW ZEALAND REDS
PINOT NOIR
Neudorf 2007 Moutere Pinot Noir (Nelson); $48. This wine’s beautifully complex aromas include hints of brown sugar, cinnamon, dried
herbs and flowers, all swirling around a core of cherry
fruit. It’s medium-bodied and supple in the mouth, yet
it retains a sense of power and sinewy acids that should
make it drink well for 5–8 years. Imported by The
Country Vintner. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
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Kim Crawford 2007 SP Rise-and-Shine
Creek Pinot Noir (Central Otago); $33.
Nicely executed New World Pinot Noir, with ripe black
cherry fruit forming the core of the wine, garnished
with hints of rhubarb and brown sugar. The tannins are
supple, the acids crisp, so the finish comes across as
tart, buffered by a velvety texture. Drink now–2013.
Imported by Constellation Brands, Inc. —J.C.
89
Whitehaven 2007 Pinot Noir (Marlborough); $23. Round and generous in the mouth,
despite lacking some fruity intensity. Hints of root vegetables and herbal notes lend character, finishing crisp.
Imported by Whitehaven Wine Co. USA. —J.C.
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Winegrowers of Ara 2007 Resolute Pinot
Noir (Marlborough); $32. Influenced by the
herbal, savory side of Marlborough Pinot Noir, with
85
Kanonkop 2007 Paul Sauer (SimonsbergStellenbosch); $43. Balanced and forward
with enticing notes of cedar and smoked meat among
aromas of mulled blackberries and licorice. Lush dark
black fruit floods the velvety mouth, while tobacco and
sweet spice linger through the lengthy close. Drink now
through 2014. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B.
Hartenberg 2006 The Mackenzie (Stellenbosch); $79. Dark berries, coffee and woody
spice start off the nose of this wine, with more concentrated but juicy plum and cherry flavors unfolding in
the mouth. Creamy and lush with medium acid and a
lively structure. Drink now–2013. Imported by Terry
Seitz. —L.B.
90
Kanonkop 2005 Paul Sauer (SimonsbergStellenbosch); $43. This Cab-dominant blend
with 15% each Merlot and Cabernet Franc is aged for
25 months in medium-toast new French oak, and the
result is a balanced and supple red with flavors of black
plum, cassis, hickory bacon, bramble and a touch of
milk chocolate on the finish. Ready to drink now.
Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B.
90
Post House 2008 Penny Black (Stellenbosch); $23. Serious herbal notes of cedar
bark, black pepper and violet leaf mingle with a juicy
fruit backbone of black raspberry and cherry flavors.
Rich and satiny in the mouth with a firm structure and
a coffee-infused finish. Drink now–2013. Imported by
Terry Seitz. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
90
Xavier Flouret 2007 uQamata (Stellenbosch); $20. Made by Carmen Stevens, one of
South Africa’s first black female winemakers, this is a
gorgeous blend with rich aromas and flavors of black currant leaf, licorice, cigar tobacco, boysenberry and black
cherry. Lush and creamy in the mouth, the finish offers a
hint of fresh mint sprig for a last minute lift. Imported by
Cognac One, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
90
Boekenhoutskloof 2008 The Chocolate
Block (Western Cape); $40. This Syrah-dominant blend with 12% Grenache, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cinsault and 2% Viognier offers a delicious,
fruit-driven core matched with complex spice notes of
sweet smoke, cured meat and fresh tobacco leaf. The
mouth is silky and smooth with fine-grain tannins and a
white pepper-flecked finish. Drink now–2012.
Imported by Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
89
(Western Cape); $11. For full review see page
8. Best Buy.
89
Giant Mistake 2008 Red Wine (Coastal
Region); $20. Despite the name, purchasing
this wine is definitely not a giant mistake. For the price,
this red blend offers loads of rich berry preserve flavors
matched assertively with coffee, chocolate and caramel
accents. The palate is smooth but the tannins hang on
firmly through the close. Imported by Cape Ardor
LLC. —L.B.
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Glen Carlou 2006 Grand Classique (Paarl);
$20. Despite the age, this Bordeaux-style blend
is still a bit closed with muted aromas of waxy black
fruit, tea leaves and cigar box spice. The crushed velvettextured mouth offers a tightly structured backbone to
the black berry and plum flavors. 2,700 cases imported.
Imported by Hess Collection. —L.B.
88
Kanonkop 2009 Kadette (Stellenbosch);
$15. Also known as a Cape Blend, this mix of
46% Pinotage, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot
and 6% Cabernet Franc is an easy-drinking, youthful
wine with fresh but rich fruit flavors of red plum and
cherry backed by rose hip and hibiscus floral accents.
Structured tannins remain through the close, with a
subtle smokiness unfolding on the end. Imported by
Cape Classics. —L.B.
88
Mulderbosch 2007 Faithful Hound (Stellenbosch); $22. Here’s a concentrated blend of
62% Cab Sauv, 10% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot, 10%
Merlot and 8% Cab Franc with assertive notes of cassis,
black plum, sweet smoke and spice on the nose and
mouth. Firmly structured and a bit chewy with a long
finish. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B.
88
Neethlingshof 2005 The Short Story Collection The Caracal (Stellenbosch); $25.
The Caracal (an African lynx breeding on the estate) is
a spicy, dried-fruit driven wine that’s ready to drink
now. Notes of black berry dust, animal hide, cigar
tobacco and licorice root fill the nose and velvety
mouth, while a good amount of woody spice lingers on
the close. Imported by Cape Legends . —L.B.
88
Doolhof 2007 Renaissance Cabernet
Sauvignon-Merlot (Wellington); $30. Dried
fruit aromas of red plum mix with spicy notes of licorice
root and woody spice, while the mouth shows more
high-toned red fruit flavors. The tannins are soft and
approachable with a dusty finish. Drink now. Imported
by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B.
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Hartenberg 2008 Ecurie (Stellenbosch);
$20. Here’s a satiny, approachable red blend
with notes of black currant, brandy-soaked cherry and a
touch of vanilla bean on the nose and mouth. A savory
peppery spice reveals itself on the end, with moderate
tannins lingering through the close. Imported by Terry
Seitz. —L.B.
85
Neil Ellis 2009 The Left Bank (Western
Cape); $15. A blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Shiraz, 14% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc
and 1% Malbec, this clean, approachable red offers
notes of black plum, cherry, cocoa and spice on the
nose and mouth. A peppery heat on the tongue lingers
through the medium finish, as do the dusty tannins.
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87
Releaf 2009 Made With Organically
Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Shiraz (Western Cape); $10. A tasty, valuepriced organic red that’s perfect for grilled meat entrées
with notes of mulled spices and espresso among the
black berry and plum fruit core. Black cherry skins flesh
out the medium-weight mouth, with firm tannins providing a tight structure and lingering through the long
finish. Drink now–2012. Imported by Prestige Wine
Group. Best Buy. —L.B.
87
Cederberg 2009 Merlot-Shiraz (Cederberg); $18. Sweet and floral with assertive aromas of crushed violets, dark berries and a touch of milk
chocolate. Easy in the mouth with a medium weight,
round texture and soft tannins. The finish is loaded with
juicy black fruit flavors. Drink now. Imported by
Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B.
86
Remhoogte 2008 Aigle Noir (SimonsbergStellenbosch); $20. Though the nose is a bit
muted, assertive juicy black plum and muddled mulberry unfold in the round mouth. Firm tannins follow
through to the dry, waxy finish. Try in another year or
two, or give it a good long decant before drinking now.
Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B.
86
Appollis 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Malbec-Petit Verdot (Wellington); $12.
Straightforward and easy to drink with a red fruit core
of plum and cherry flavors accented by notes of black
currant leaf and tea leaves. Low tannins assist in the
approachable structure, and the finish is clean and juicy.
Imported by MJM Imports. —L.B.
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Beau Joubert 2009 Oak Lane Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch); $9. A soft,
drinkable red with hints of sweet smoke and cured
meat adding character to the mulberry and blackberry
fruit flavors. Medium weight with low tannins and an
easy finish. Drink now. Imported by Metrowine Distribution. Best Buy. —L.B.
85
D’Aria 2009 Music by D’Aria (Durbanville);
$11. There are a lot of different elements going
on here, with aromas of black fruit mixing with nuances
of sweet smoke and a touch of leather. Balanced and
full in the mouth with moderate tannins and a solid finish. Drink now. Imported by Cape Wine Match. —L.B.
85
Edgebaston 2009 The Pepper Pot (Stellenbosch); $15. This red blend, made of 65%
Syrah, 28% Mourvèdre and 7% Tannat is a fresh and
fruity wine that’s ready to drink now. Dark berries and a
touch of sweet oak flesh out the mouth, with a clean
and refreshing finish. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc.
—L.B.
Oak Valley 2005 The Oak Valley Blend
(Elgin); $30. Spiced meat, tomato leaf and
stemmy black fruit overwhelm this wine, which might
unfortunately be a bit past its prime. 69% Merlot, 27%
Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Imported
by Confluence Wine Importers. —L.B.
Appollis 2009 Shiraz-Cinsaut-Mourvèdre
(Wellington); $12. Fruity and herbal all at
once with aromas of kirsch and black cherry competing
with notes of wet forest floor and wild game. Lightweight and drinkable with a clean, fruit-driven finish.
Imported by MJM Imports. —L.B.
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Stellenbosch Hills 2009 Polkadraai Pinotage-Merlot (Polkadraai Hills); $10. This
blend of 70% Pinotage and 30% Merlot shows herbal
notes of bramble and black plum skins alongside a
rubbery accent. Medium weight with a soft, round
mouth and a clean finish. Imported by Cape Wine
Match. —L.B.
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CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Stark-Condé 2007 Unfined and Unfiltered
Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch); $27.
Cigar box and mulberry spice aromas lead the nose of
this Cab, with fruity notes of black berry and cassis providing the backdrop. Full and lush in the mouth, the
ripe black fruit carries through to the finish alongside
accents of roasted coffee grounds. 550 cases imported.
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Bosman Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Wellington); $28. A hint of
spiced cured meat mixes with the assertive notes of cassis and black plum in the bouquet. The mouth shows
more of an herbal character with flavors of licorice,
cigar tobacco and pepper that linger through the close.
Firmly structured but with a creamy feel and dissipating tannins. Imported by MJM Imports. —L.B.
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Kanonkop 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch); $35. Rich and complex, this
Cab shows deep black fruit flavors of blackberry and
cassis framed by decadent notes of espresso, leather
and peppery spice. Like crushed satin in the mouth
with ample tannins and a lush fleshy fruit backbone.
Accents of menthol appear on the lengthy finish. Drink
now. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B.
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Rooiberg 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Robertson); $15. Balanced and
refined, this is a great value Cab that shows nice roundness to the spicy tobacco, bramble and cassis flavors.
Dusty tannins linger softly through the finish, where a
faint leathery accent adds intrigue. Readily available
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BUYING GUIDE
with 14,000 cases imported. Imported by Worthwhile
Wine Company. —L.B.
Hartenberg 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch); $32. Blackberry and cassis
dominate the bouquet, with notes of coffee, sweet spice
and savory herb adding complexity. Balanced and well
structured with a medium-weight mouth and solid tannins. Grilled black plum flavors carry though on the
finish. Drink now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B.
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Kanonkop 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Simonsberg-Stellenbosch); $35. There’s not
a ton of assertive character to this wine aside from its
gripping tannins and firm structure. The fruit is faint
and shy, with notes of dark berries, black tea and
licorice spice hiding in the background. Open well in
advance, give it a good decant, or try cellaring for
another couple of years before drinking. Imported by
Cape Classics. —L.B.
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Neil Ellis 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch); $23. Here’s a medium-bodied red
with approachable tannins and a spicy edge throughout.
Ripe black plum and cassis aromas flood the bouquet,
while flavors of cigar box and licorice spice unfold in
the mouth and linger through the finish. Drink now.
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Eventide Cellar 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Wellington); $17. Ripe and fruit forward.
Strong notes of berry preserves and juicy black plum
are laced with notes of purple flowers and sweet
smoked meat. Medium weight with soft tannins and a
clean finish. Drink now. Imported by Southern Starz,
Inc. —L.B.
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Post House 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch); $26. The nose is a bit soapy
and medicinal with aromas of violets candies, mushy
black cherry and a touch of acetone. The mouth offers
more high toned fruit flavors with a sharp, skinny finish.
Drink now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B.
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PINOT NOIR
Hamilton Russell 2008 Pinot Noir (Hemel
en Aarde); $44. Well known for their Pinot
Noir, Hamilton Russell produces one of the finest
South African offerings from the variety. Lively and
complex notes of fresh mint and black pepper spice up
the red berry and cherry flavors. Soft tannins provide a
delicate framework, with a medium-length finish sealing the deal. Imported by Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
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Bouchard Finlayson 2008 Galpin Peak
Pinot Noir (Walker Bay); $40. Ripe and
attractive with notes of sous bois and savory herbs
adding complexity to the forest berry and ripe stewed
rhubarb fruit flavors. Silky in the mouth with dusty tannins and a long, coffee-infused finish. Imported by
Terry Seitz. —L.B.
88
Paul Cluver 2008 Seven Flags Pinot Noir
(Elgin); $60. Spicy forest and used coffee grind
aromas mingle with notes of small red berries and red
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plum flesh. Lively and juicy but elegant in the mouth
with medium tannins and a white pepper-dusted finish.
Imported by World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B.
Avontuur 2008 Minelli Pinot Noir (Stellenbosch); $26. Lightweight but flavorful with
sweet vanilla accents supporting the red fruit character.
A touch of popcorn toast appears in the bouquet, while
the finish exhibits sweet cola spice. Imported by Terry
Seitz. —L.B.
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Oak Valley 2008 Pinot Noir (Elgin); $40.
Sweet mocha and coffee notes overwhelm the
bouquet of this Pinot, with red raspberry and cherry
skin notes providing support. Lively acidity and a satiny
texture fill the mouth, while white pepper spice lingers
on the finish. Imported by Confluence Wine Importers.
—L.B.
87
Elgin Vintners 2008 Pinot Noir (Elgin); $21.
Soft animal notes are countered by ripe red fruit
aromas on the nose, while more stemmy red berry and
cola spice flavors appear in the mouth. Medium weight
with a clean, refreshing finish. Drink now. Imported by
Cape Wine Match. —L.B.
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PINOTAGE
Doolhof 2009 Dark Lady of the Labyrinth
Pinotage (Wellington); $19. Here’s a lively
and juicy Pinotage that’s laced with bramble and savory
herbs thoughout the dark fruit core. A coffee caramel
drizzle sweetens up the long finish, and the structure is
firm but approachable now. Imported by Worthwhile
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Barista 2009 Pinotage (Western Cape);
$15. For full review see page 7. Imported by
Indigo Wine Group.
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Café Culture 2009 Pinotage (Western
Cape); $15. The name shouldn’t fool you;
there’s a definite assertive coffee character to this wine.
The black fruit flavors of spiced mulberry and black
plum mix with a hickory smoke accent that lingers
through the finish. Imported by Opici Wines. —L.B.
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MAN Vintners 2009 Pinotage (Coastal
Region); $11. Dark fruit drives this wine, as
aromas and flavors of rich black berry, plum and cherry
laced with licorice root flood the senses. Round and
full in the mouth but balanced with medium acidity
that leads through the clean, lively finish. Drink now.
Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B.
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Painted Wolf 2009 Guillermo Pinotage
(Swartland); $18. There’s a nice spicy character that appears throughout the nose and mouth of this
wine, lifted by juicy black berry and plum fruit flavors.
Medium weight with solid acidity and balanced alcohol.
Drink now. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B.
86
Beyerskloof 2009 Pinotage (Stellenbosch);
$11. Red plum and cherry aromas struggle to
overcome notes of rubber and wet forest floor. Light
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weight with soft tannins and a short finish. Imported by
Cape Wine Match. —L.B.
Graham Beck 2009 Pinotage (Western
Cape); $15. Red berries and blueberry mix
with stewed rhubarb and a hint of sweet spice. The ripe
berry flavors carry through to the mouth, but the finish
reveals a hint of Band-Aid. Imported by Maritime Wine
Trading Collective. —L.B.
84
Painted Wolf 2009 The Den Pinotage
(Coastal Region); $12. A bit closed on the
nose, it takes a while for notes of black cherry skins and
rubber to appear in the bouquet. The mouth offers a bit
more flavor, with a nice chocolate-covered cherry finish.
Drink now. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B.
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SYRAH/SHIRAZ
Stark-Condé 2007 Three Pines Unfined
and Unfiltered Syrah (Jonkershoek Valley); $35. For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.
92
Thelema 2007 Shiraz (Stellenbosch); $36.
Balanced and complex with herbal aromas of
forest floor and sweet smoke married to the dense
fruity core of black cherry, blueberry and juicy black
plum. The organic dark fruit flavors continue on to
dominate the satiny mouth, while a black pepper and
espresso flavor unfolds on the finish. Imported by Cape
Classics. —L.B.
91
Hartenberg 2007 The Stork Shiraz (Stellenbosch); $79. Medium weight with a satiny
smooth texture and great balance, this is a stellar Syrah
with great complexity between the rich dark fruit flavors and forest spice. Aromatic accents of cured meat
and crème brûlée linger in the back of the bouquet,
while a strong coffee flavor stays strong through the
finish. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B.
90
Stark-Condé 2007 Unfined and Unfiltered
Syrah (Stellenbosch); $27. A bit more rustic
than its Three Pines Syrah. Notes of bramble, wild forest berries, game and white pepper flood the nose and
mouth. The mouthfeel is creamy and lush, with rich
cherry flavors developing on the palate and playing into
the cocoa-dusted finish. Imported by Vineyard Brands.
—L.B.
90
Graham Beck 2005 The Ridge Syrah
(Robertson); $15. The dark and moody bouquet is loaded with heady black fruit, coffee, smoky
leather and cigar box aromas. Unfortunately, the soft
mouth offers far less of that intensity, with fading notes
of cherry and plum skins. Drink now. Imported by Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B.
86
Partnership Vineyards 2008 Shiraz (Western Cape); $12. Sweet mocha is the heart of
this wine, with stemmy fruit flavors of black cherry and
mashed raspberry providing the supporting frame. A
glimmer of hickory smoke accents the long finish.
Drink now. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company.
—L.B.
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Rooiberg 2008 Reserve Shiraz (Robertson); $15. There’s a nice brambly character to
this wine, with assertive savory herbs and fresh mint
sprigs jazzing up the ripe berry-fruit core. Medium
weight with a softly creamy texture and a vanilla-infused
finish. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B.
86
Eventide Cellar 2008 Shiraz (Wellington);
$17. Slightly sweet and confected with raspberry fruit roll-up and berry preserve aromas. A glimmer of crushed carnation flavors switch things up in
the lightweight but round and soft mouth. Imported by
Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B.
85
Rooiberg 2008 Shiraz (Robertson); $10.
Straightforward and approachable with notes of
tart cherry and red plum dusted with cocoa powder on
the nose and mouth. Drink now. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B.
84
Makulu 2008 Shiraz (Western Cape); $6. A
real value wine that’s perfect for large-group
entertaining. Blueberry and cherry flavors lead here,
with glimmers of raspberry leaf adding character. Juicy,
light and simple, but good. Imported by Prestige Wine
Group. Best Buy. —L.B.
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SOUTH AFRICAN
WHITES
CHARDONNAY
Bouchard Finlayson 2009 Kaaimansgat
Chardonnay (Overberg); $29. Wood-grilled
peach aromas mingle with notes of orange blossom and
almond skins on the nose. Juicy and well balanced, the
rich toasty red apple and orange creamsicle flavors lead
into the long wood-spiced close. Drink now. Imported
by Terry Seitz. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
91
Hartenberg 2007 The Eleanor Chardonnay
(Stellenbosch); $53. There’s a definite oaky
backdrop to this wine, adding spice and toast to the
rich baked red apple, peach bit and brioche flavors. An
orange blossom accent freshens up the rich flavors and
the full but balanced mouth. The long finish is loaded
with toasty hazelnut character. Imported by Terry Seitz.
—L.B.
90
Paul Cluver 2009 Chardonnay (Elgin); $30.
Medium-intense aromas of ripe pear and soft
herbs transition into the mouth alongside developing
flavors of apricot and clementine citrus. Medium
weight with a good crispness and a clean but lingering
finish. 5,400 cases imported. Imported by Worthwhile
90
D a n i e d e We t 2 0 0 9 L i m e s t o n e H i l l
Chardonnay (Robertson); $16. There’s great
minerality to this wine, as aromas of chalky soil mix with
notes of brisk red apple skin, hard pear and a drizzle of
honey. Fresh apple slices and orange citrus flavors liven
up the mouth, ending with a lively and mouthwatering
finish. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B.
89
De Wetshof 2009 Bon Vallon Chardonnay
(Robertson); $19. Bold and round, this Chard
offers rich fruit flavors of ripe apple, white peach and
soft melon propped against a yellow floral and honeysuckle backbone. Sensual but balanced with lively acidity and a clean close. Drink now. Imported by
88
Glen Carlou 2009 Chardonnay (Paarl); $16.
Apple, pear and nectarine fruit scents lead the
nose of this wine, with a touch of raw almond contributing a gentle nutty accent. Medium weight with great
vibrancy and freshness, a lively sweet citrus core lifts
the palate and remains through the close. Imported by
Hess Collection. —L.B.
88
Muratie 2009 Isabella Chardonnay (Stellenbosch); $25. So fresh and balanced, there’s
structured mineral-driven support to the red apple,
juicy lemon and sweet spice flavors. Medium weight,
the ripe mouth is coupled with great acidity to cut
through any flab. A soft toastiness kicks up the finish.
Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B.
88
Morgenhof 2009 Chardonnay (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch); $19. Ripe pineapple,
juicy peach and Key lime flavors fill the medium-weight
mouth, while a soft accent of peach pit develops on the
finish. Balanced and straightforward; drink now.
Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B.
86
DeMorgenzon 2009 Chardonnay (Western
Cape); $15. Lean and tart with green plum and
Granny Smith apple aromas. Lemony acidity drives the
brisk mouth, leading into the short but crisp finish.
Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B.
84
CHENIN BLANC/STEEN
Painted Wolf 2009 The Den Chenin Blanc
(Coastal Region); $12. This Chenin immediately draws you in with notes of baked apple, beeswax
and softly toasted brioche. The rich, medium-weight
mouth carries similar notes of spicy toast and ripe pear
flavors. Full-flavored and easy to drink; enjoy now.
Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. Best Buy. —L.B.
87
Ken Forrester 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch); $15. Soft red apple, hard peach, green
fig and underripe banana peel all marry with an underlying yellow floral note. Light and easy in the mouth
with a short but clean finish. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B.
85
Rooiberg 2009 Chenin Blanc (Robertson);
$9. Waxy orange peel and green apple aromas
take the lead on this white, with riper stone fruit and
sweet citrus flavors developing in the mouth. Light
weight with a clean and refreshing finish. Imported by
Worthwhile Wine Company. Best Buy. —L.B.
85
The Royal Valley Vineyards Wine Company 2009 Old Vines Steen Chenin Blanc
(Swartland); $10. With 11,000 cases imported, this
crisp, clean Steen should be easy to find and well worth
the price. Light weight but filled with ripe pineapple
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and Key lime flavors accented by crushed white flowers. Drink now. Imported by Kysela Père et Fils. Best
Buy. —L.B.
Graham Beck 2009 The Game Reserve
Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region); $16. Tropical fruit notes of pineapple and guava backed by
accents of sweet grass and clementine citrus flesh out
this white. Lively and slightly prickly on the palate.
Imported by Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B.
84
Releaf 2009 Made With Organically Grown
Grapes Chenin Blanc (Western Cape); $10.
Medium intense aromas of tangerine citrus and crushed
yellow flowers transition to flavors of dried grass, red
apple and a touch of mushroom powder. Drink now.
Imported by Prestige Wine Group. —L.B.
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SAUVIGNON BLANC
Cederberg 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Cederberg); $22. Attractive aromas of ripe guava and
mango mix masterfully with earthy notes of fresh grass
and sweet pea florals in the bouquet. Lime flavors drive
the palate, with a great cut to the mouthfeel and a juicy
finish. Drink now. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B.
88
Neil Ellis 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Groenekloof); $18. The prickly mouth and forward
acidity makes this a live-wire choice that would be a
great companion to a rich chicken dish or cream of
asparagus soup. Fresh- cut grass, soft chive and watermelon rind all occasionally shine through the citrusdominant nose and mouth. Drink now. Imported by
Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
88
Shannon 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin);
$30. Fresh but full with ripe flavors of kiwi and
Key lime citrus accented by savory herbs on the palate.
Balanced, with bracing acidity and a lingering finish
accented by notes of white peach. A nice choice for
poached halibut. 300 cases imported. Imported by
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D’Aria 2009 Terra D’Aria Sauvignon Blanc
(Durbanville); $12. Green plum skins, bitter
lime pith, hay and pepper all dominate the nose with
barely a hint of ripe fruit to be found. The mouth, however, offers a bit more ripeness to the lime and plum
flavors, fleshing out the medium-weight mouth and
adding depth to the wine. Imported by Cape Wine
Match. Best Buy. —L.B.
87
Oak Valley 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin);
$18. This wine is tart and mouthwatering with
strong notes of green gooseberry, lemon supremes, hay
and a touch of green banana rind throughout. Balanced
but bracing with a lively citrus finish. Drink now.
Imported by Confluence Wine Importers. —L.B.
87
Paul Cluver 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin);
$18. Bright and drinkable with easygoing green
fig, underripe melon, herbs and sweet lemon drop flavors. Approachable and balanced with medium acidity
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BUYING GUIDE
and a crisp finish. Drink now. Imported by Worthwhile
Sutherland 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin);
$15. Clean and to the point, the fresh grass
notes ground the lively tart gooseberry and underripe
mango flavors, keeping the mouth from feeling too
crisp and lean. Refreshing and easy to drink; try with
grilled spiced softshell crab. Imported by Cape Classics.
—L.B.
87
Warwick 2010 Professor Black Sauvignon
Blanc (Stellenbosch); $19. The mouthfeel of
this wine is full and round despite lean flavors of tart
tropical fruit and melon rind. The nose offers aromas
of fresh herbs and green fruit that reappear on the finish. Drink now. Imported by Broadbent Selections,
Inc. —L.B.
87
Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Walker Bay); $18. Ripe fruit flavors are countered by a fresh citrus zing in the mouth, with notes of
underripe melon and hard banana sprinkling the bouquet. Drink now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B.
86
KWV 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Western
Cape); $11. Soft grass, green gooseberry and a
hint of fig unfold on the nose, while ripe green plum
and lime rind fill the medium-weight mouth. Clean and
easy to drink; pair with crab salad canapés. Imported by
Opici Wines. Best Buy. —L.B.
86
MAN Vintners 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Western Cape); $11. Light and easy-drinking
with fresh notes of lemon citrus, watercress and a touch
of wild field grass. Clean acidity and herbal flavors carry
through the palate to the crisp finish. Drink now.
Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B.
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Simonsig 2010 Sunbird Sauvignon Blanc
(Stellenbosch); $14. Herbal and fruity all at
once with clean aromas of gooseberry, hard mango and
green grass. Ctirus flavors dominate the lightweight
mouth with crisp lime acidity charging through on the
close. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —L.B.
86
Rooiberg 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Robertson); $9. Here’s a well balanced and easy to
drink value priced Sauv Blanc, offering notes of sweet
grass, barely ripe peach and melon on the nose and
mouth. Perfect for summer entertaining; pair with sushi
or cocktail shrimp. Imported by Worthwhile Wine
Company. Best Buy. —L.B.
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VIOGNIER
Ridgeback 2008 Viognier (Paarl); $20.
Here’s a gorgeous Viognier that is showing very
well. Soft toasted brioche topped with baked red apple,
ginger and orange clove spice aromas transition into
flavors of spiced peach and orange oil in the full mouth.
Well balanced with a long, spicy finish. Imported by
Cape Ardor LLC. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
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86
Elgin Vintners 2009 Viognier (Elgin); $20.
Fresh and light with ripe fruit notes of red apple
and apricot spiced with hints of white florals and lime
zest. The medium- weight mouth is juicy and clean, the
ripe stone fruit flavors carrying through to the close.
Drink now. Imported by Cape Wine Match. —L.B.
Eventide Cellar 2009 Viognier (Wellington); $17. Ripe and fruit forward with lush
notes of melon, banana and sweet tropical fruit citrus
throughout. Medium weight, the finish is loaded with
juicy fresh peach flavors. Drink now. Imported by
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OTHER WHITES
Solms-Delta 2009 Amalie V iognierGrenache Blanc (Western Cape); $35. An
interesting wine, this blend offers a complex nose of
ripe whole lychee and fresh pressed apple aromas countered by glimmers of beeswax and rose florals. More
red apple unfolds in the round mouth, with a touch of
sweet lime oil freshening up the finish. Imported by
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Lammershoek 2008 Roulette Blanc (Swartland); $25. A blend of 48% Chenin Blanc, 41%
Chardonnay and 11% Viognier, this is an interesting
white with slightly oxidized but rich notes of honeycomb, toasted hazelnut and baked apple thoughout.
Medium weight with a touch of heat coming through
on the long finish. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B.
86
(Franschhoek); $10. Composed of 40% Viognier, 39% Chenin Blanc and 21% Grenache Blanc,
there’s an attractive round richness to this wine. A
toasty character spices up the fresh pear, melon and
orange rind flavors, with a nutty accent lingering on the
finish. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B.
85
Post House 2008 Blueish White Chenin
Blanc-Sauvignon Blanc (Stellenbosch);
$11. This 65% Chenin Blanc - 35% Sauvignon Blanc
blend is clean and fresh with flavors of green grass, hard
nectarine and a touch of orange rind in the round
mouth. Drink now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B.
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CALIFORNIA REDS
CABERNETS & BLENDS
Venge 2008 Family Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Oakville); $125. For full review
see page 2.
99
Araujo 2007 Eisele Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $275. Profoundly beautiful
aroma on this Cab, a perfect union of oaky char and
vanilla with ripe blackberries and cassis. Hard to exaggerate the beauty. Powerful, yet never pushy, with classic Napa balance. Rich, sweet, almost meaty, with
massive tannins that are refined and smooth. Very great
density and weight. Really defines the vineyard, and
should age effortlessly for 20 years. —S.H.
98
Hall 2007 Exzellenz Sacrashe Vineyard
Red Wine (Rutherford); $165. For full
review see page 2.
96
96
96
Macauley 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $72. For full review see page 3.
Reynolds Family Winery 2007 Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District);
$89. A big, vital and important Cabernet that deserves
a place in the cellar. It hits the mouth with huge tannins
that are tight and locked down, yet sweetly ripe. That
contradiction persists throughout the fantastically complex blackberry, cherry, currant and mocha flavors. A
very fine, superior wine that exemplifies the Stags Leap
iron fist in a velvet glove. As delicious as it is, you
should hold this Cabernet for a good six years, and it
could easily develop for an additional decade. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
Staglin 2007 INEO (Napa Valley); $250.
Here’s a young, strong, vigorous wine that needs
cellar time. It’s absolutely dry, and hits the palate with
numbing tannins. But the blackberry, cassis and cedar
flavors are intense and concentrated. Earns its high score
by the wonderful combination of elegance and potency.
Hold until after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
96
Far Niente 2008 Estate Bottled Cabernet
Sauvignon (Oakville); $120. For full review
see page 3.
95
Salvestrin 2007 3D Cabernet Sauvignon
(St. Helena); $125. Sweet new oak stands out,
giving this Cabernet caramel aromas and flavors. But
the oak is perfectly in keeping with the wine’s massive
power. Underneath the wood char is a dry, tannic wine
with rich blackberry and currant flavors. It’s a bit disjointed now, needing time for everything to mesh
together. Could be really something around 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
95
Terra Valentine 2007 Wurtele Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain);
$65. A well-made wine, showing lots of terroir in the
mineral-infused blackberry, black currant, chocolate
and anise flavors. The tannins are structurally superb,
while the finish is dry and complex. A very fine wine
that should gather momentum for at least a decade.
Cellar Selection. —S.H.
95
Venge 2008 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $76. For full
review see page 3. Cellar Selection.
95
Bennett Lane 2008 Lynch Family Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga); $125. A
very rich, dry Cabernet, marked by dusty tannins, and
with flavors of blackberries, dark chocolate, sweet herbs
and green olives. Very fine in the mouth, clearly a wine
with pedigree, but it needs time. Hold until 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
94
Zahtila 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga); $50. For full review see page 3. Cellar
Selection.
94
Baldacci 2007 Brenda’s Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stags Leap District); $105. For
full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
93
Bartalotti 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford); $60. There’s something
so smoothly sweet about this Cabernet, it’s like an old
Cognac. The sweetly toasted oak is merging its caramel
and vanilla with the ripe black and red cherries, leading to an unctuous, long, spicy finish. Really quite a
compelling wine that’s beautiful now. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
93
Clos du Val 2007 Three Graces Blend
(Napa Valley); $65. Clos du Val has always
made wines with long-term cellaring in mind. This
blend, based on Cabernet Sauvignon, is dry and tannic,
with spicy, toasty oak dominating. Beneath that are rich,
compelling notes of cassis and dark chocolate. The alcohol is refeshingly low, below 14%. This dramatic wine
needs a minimum of six years, and should develop for at
least ten. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
93
Hall 2007 Segassia Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mount Veeder); $145. For full
review see page 4.
93
Laird 2007 Mast Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville); $70. Very concentrated
and compact in fruit, with a molten core of blackberries
and cassis. A dramatic, flashy wine, but the tannins are
impossibly tight and astringent. There’s beautiful, classic, almost old-fashioned structure here, but don’t even
think of opening it until at least 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
93
Luna 2006 North Fork Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $110. Very dry and tannic, an austere young Cabernet that offering much
relief now. You’ll find a very rich, concentrated core of
blackberries and minerals, brightened by a scour of
fine, clean acidity. The odds are heavily in favor of this
wine aging well for a decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
93
P ro m i s e 2 0 0 6 C a b e r n e t S a u v i g n o n
(Rutherford); $225. There’s a very good wine
here that’s yearning to express itself, but it’s locked
inside a straitjacket of tannins. Feels hard, astringent
and resistant in the mouth. But it’s huge in concentrated blackberries, cherries, anise and cedar, and gives
the impression of drama and importance. Give it at
least five years, and it could develop well beyond that.
93
Reverie 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
(Diamond Mountain); $65. Impressive for
the volume of its flavor, which is all intensely concentrated mountain blackberries and cassis, with an interesting and savory salty earthiness of green olives.
Beautifully oaked, too, so sweet and refined in toast.
But those notorious Diamond Mountain tannins are
gigantic, and the wine needs serious cellar time. Stash
until 2014, and the drinkabiity window could last for
an additional ten years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
93
93
Reverie 2008 Special Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain); $85. You
have to have a great deal of faith to buy this wine,
because right now it’s almost undrinkable due to the
tannins. They’re as hard and firm as a brick wall, and
whatever fruit there is, and there’s plenty, is effectively
hidden from the palate’s pleasure. Discerning tasters
will detect massive blackberries and black currants,
buried deep down like pirate’s treasure. It should
develop quite well over the next ten or fifteen years.
Tuck Beckstoffer 2007 Mockingbird Green
Label Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley);
$170. Very rich, concentrated and intense, almost
jammy, showing the essence of ripe blackberry and
cherry fruit nectar. Oak shows up as rich, smoky char.
With firm tannins and a long, sweet, fruity finish, this
Cabernet should age well. Too young and tight now, so
give it until at least 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
93
Armanino Family Cellars 2008 Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $95. A
rich, sleek Cabernet, made in a controlled manner
emphasizing dry elegance rather than massive fruit.
You’ll find complex blackberry, tobacco and mocha flavors, wrapped into firm tannins. Now–2014. —S.H.
92
Baldacci 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags
Leap District); $65. For full review see page 4.
Cellar Selection.
92
Bardessono 2007 Maxine’s Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $35. Very good
price for a Cabernet this complex and smooth from
Napa Valley. Offers lots of pleasure in the velvety texture and rich flavors of blackberries, cassis and mocha.
A big improvement over the ’06 bottling. Give it a few
hours of decanting. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
92
92
Cinnabar 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa
Cruz Mountains); $45. For full review see
page 4.
Dyer 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond
Mountain); $75. Showing those infamous Diamond Mountain tannins, this Cab is hard as nails.
Makes the mouth pucker with astringency. The underlying wine is bone dry, and has vital, concentrated
blackberry and cassis flavors, with a kiss of tangy minerals that must come from the dirt. Give this young wine
at least six years, and it should live for many more. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
92
Guarachi Family 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $65. A very rich, dramatic, indisputably Napa Cabernet. The fruit is ripe in blackberries
and cassis, the tannin structure is vibrant and living, and
the oak application is superb. A fashionable Cab that
should develop over the next eight years. —S.H.
92
Kapscandy Family Winery 2008 Grand Vin
Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville); $325.
Dense, dry and ripe, this is a Cabernet to lay down. It’s
really tough and gritty in tannins, but solid in wild
blackberry, cherry and herb flavors. A powerful young
Cabernet that needs 6–8 years to come around. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
92
Luna 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $50. Dry as dust and very tannic, this
Cabernet simply isn’t ready for prime time yet. It’s
tightly wound and tough, and resists breaking down.
But there are plenty of blackberries tucked deep inside.
Hold this elegant wine until after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
92
Mi Sueño 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley); $65. Here’s a fine, young Cabernet,
rich in pastry-filling blackberries, cherries, black raspberries, cassis and sweet toasted oak notes. Already
throwing some sediment, it should glide effortlessly
through the next eight years, gaining bottle interest.
92
Ramian 2006 J. Garrett Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga); $85. Big, sturdy and
extracted in blackberries, black currants and molasses,
with a meaty edge, almost like a Syrah. The tannins are
thick and furry and astringent, but the wine is flashy
and complex. Hard now, but give it 5–6 years, and it
could age well beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
92
Robert Mondavi 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville); $45. A big, dense, brooding
wine, concentrated and powerful in blackberries, cherries and cassis. The tannins are sandpapery, giving the
mouth a scoury feeling added to by the acids. An interesting, complex young wine that’s well made and needs
time to come around. Drink it over the next 6–8 years.
—S.H.
92
Round Pond 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford); $50. Quite a good Cabernet, virgorous and dry, with an earthy edge of sweet,
dried herbs alongside the blackberries and cedar. More
elegant and food-friendly than many of the fruitier, high
alcohol, oaky Cabs out there. —S.H.
92
Tudal 2008 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $55. A distinguished
Cabernet whose superb tannins, which are firm and
ripe and refined, testify to its Napa origins. So does the
blackberry and currant fruit, which finishes in a swirl of
sweet, smoky cedar wood. Good as it is, it’s way too
young. Should be best around 2015 and afterward. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
92
Zahtila 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley); $40. Made in a very ripe, intensely
concentrated style, this tannic young Cabernet is massive in blackberries, currants and cedar. It’s a huge,
impressive wine that needs at least 6–8 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
92
Laird 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Yountville); $48. Richly tannic and dry, this
Cabernet has the hallmarks of a wine that needs time to
develop. It’s chunky and astringent now, with fresh, tart
flavors of blackberries, cherries and currants, and an
overlay of smoky oak. Should be fine in 6–7 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
91
Shypoke 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga); $34. There’s something almost old-fashioned about this Cabernet. It’s in the tannic structure,
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which actually is firm and angular, not the melted variety that keeps too many wines from aging. Bone dry
and efficiently oaked, it shows lovely blackberry, currant, dark chocolate and herb flavors that need a good
five years to show their best. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Sleeper Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $44. Fans of sweet, ripe Cabs
will love this charming beauty. It’s forward and drinkable now in blackberries, plums and cherries, but it’s
not simple. The tannins are rich and complex, and the
finish is dry and spicy. Decant before serving. —S.H.
91
Steltzner 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stags Leap District); $40. A young, tannic
wine that needs some time in the bottle to come
around. Beneath the firm tannins are fleshy, olivaceous
notes of blackberries, black cherries, mocha and oak.
Seems balanced enough for development over the next
six years. —S.H.
91
Tayson Pierce Estate Wines 2006 Cabernet
Sauvignon (St. Helena); $80. Sweetly
charred oak presently dominates the blackberry and
cherry flavors that finish so long and strong in fruity
power. The tannins are big and hard, making the wine
clumsy and rude in youth. Yet it has the overall balance
to age well. Give it up to a decade in a cool cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
91
Turnbull 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley); $40. A fine Cabernet from this veteran
producer, elegant and stylish. Not one of your fruit
bombs, it shows modulated blackberry, currant and herb
flavors, leading to a long, spicy finish. Really distinguished, although it’s not an ager. Contains a splash of
Syrah and Petite Sirah for complexity and color. —S.H.
91
Wine Spots 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
Editors’ Choice.
91
Cinnabar 2008 Mercury Rising (California);
$21. For full review see page 6. Editors’
Choice.
90
La Jota Vineyard 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain); $65. A strong
Cabernet that’s so tightly wound in tannins, it’s hard to
appreciate, despite plenty of fruit. There’s also a green
olive earthiness to the sweet blackberries and cedar.
Showing its immaturity now, so give it a good six years
in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
90
rich edge of milk chocolate to the black cherry and
cedar flavors. Feels vital and delicious and alive. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
flavors alongside riper notes of cherries and blackberries. Nicely dry, and shows a certain pedigree, but doesn’t seem quite ripe enough for the long haul. —S.H.
Volker Eisele 2007 Terzetto (Napa Valley);
$75. Rough-hewn and tannic in youth, this
blend of one-third each Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot isn’t showing much accessibility.
It’s astringently closed, but very ripe and sweet in blackberries, cherries and cedar. Give it five years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Terra Valentine 2007 Marriage (Spring
Mountain); $75. Fruity and jammy, showing
intensely ripe, crushed wild blackberry and foxy mulberry flavors. A little rustic in tannins, with a bristling
texture, but the finish is long, dry and spicy. Could surprise after 5–7 years in the cellar. —S.H.
90
Geyser Peak 2006 Reserve Alexandre Meritage (Alexander Valley); $50. Lots of flashy
black and red currant and cedar flavors in this dry
Cabernet. It finishes with an intense taste of blackberry
essence and spice. The tannins are intricate and
refined. Experienced tasters will recognize them as
uniquely Alexander Valley. Drink now–2014. —S.H.
89
Kenefick Ranch 2007 Chris’ Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $60. Quite a
good wine, rich and ripe, with plump blackberry,
cherry, anise and cedar flavors, wrapped into firm tannins. Feels a bit rugged and astringent, but could blossom over the next 5–6 years. —S.H.
Vine Cliff 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley); $55. Aging may make this Cabernet
more harmonious than it is now. It’s a dramatic wine,
ripe in blackberries and cassis, rich in oak, and with
smooth, intricate tannins. Yet it’s klutzy now, almost
rude, like a gawky teenager who’s growing too fast. Give
it 4–5 years to mellow. —S.H.
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89
Buehler 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley); $25. Pretty good price for a Napa
Cabernet as elegant as this. It’s a polished wine for
drinking now. Shows smooth, refined tannins, with
interesting flavors of blackberries, red plums, red currants, tobacco and dusty spices. Easy to find, with
15,000 cases produced. —S.H.
88
Joseph Family 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley); $36. A very rich, ripe
Cabernet, expressive in black cherry, mocha, cola, sweet
herb and cedar flavors. It’s a little young, so give it 3–4
years in the bottle, but this is not a wine to age for a
long time. —S.H.
88
Salvestrin 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (St.
Helena); $55. Immature now, with sweet,
jammy blackberry, cassis and charred oak flavors,
wrapped into firm, hard tannins. Tastes almost rustic,
but there’s pedigree in there. Give it a few years and see
what happens. —S.H.
88
Sanctuary 2008 Usibelli Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford); $30. A beautiful Cabernet, at a price that makes it a bargain. It’s
drinking really well now, with soft, dusty tannins and a
88
Barlow 2006 Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $50. A strong, bold
young wine, with good varietal flavors of blackberries
and black currants. It’s hard in tannins now, and the
oak hasn’t been integrated even though the wine is
nearing the five year mark. Somehow, it doesn’t seem
like a longterm ager, but it will benefit from a couple
years in the bottle. —S.H.
87
88
90
Tudal 2008 Clift Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll); $50. Shows some pretty
good acids and tannins, which makes the wine feel juicy
and brisk in candied blackberry and cherry fruit. Finishes almost sweet, but not quite, with the tannins closing in and drying things out. The impression is of an
immature wine, not showing well now. Give it 5–6 years
in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
88
89
Ramian 2007 Chapter VII Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder); $59. Smells great and
flashy, with inviting notes of blackberries, black currants, green olives and spicy sandalwood. Candied and
sweet in the mouth, with blackberry and black cherry
fruit. Tasted in March, 2011, the wine could well have
been going through an awkward period. Should reemerge by Fall and age well. —S.H.
90
88
Somerston 2007 Priest Ranch Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $38. Young, strong
and vigorous. Despite a plethora of ripe blackberries,
plums and dark chocolate, this Cab seems to lack some
breeding and elegance. Could surprise down the road.
Try after 2014. —S.H.
Spottswoode 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(St. Helena); $130. Feels a bit common and
rustic now, with uneven tannins and some green, minty
Charles Krug 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $27. Made in a heavy, dense
style, with extracted fruit flavors and lots of oak, this
Cab is immediately flashy in chocolate, blackberry jam
and toast. It delivers in richness, yet lacks a certain vitality. Drink now. —S.H.
Clos du Val 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Carneros); $35. Very dry and tannic. Treads
the line between elegant and boring. Some good cherry
and blackberry flavors erupt midpalate, but it’s really a
fairly lean, earthy Cabernet. The score reflects where it
could end up in, say, eight years. —S.H.
87
Cobblestone 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
1
(Atlas Peak); $44. At the age of 5 ⁄2 years, this
Cabernet is still very forward and sweet in blackberry,
cherry, anise and cedar flavors. The tannins are rich
and thick, in the way of mountain grapes. The wine
tastes a bit one-dimensional, although it could be going
through an awkward phase. —S.H.
87
Geyser Peak 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $45. Nice and dry,
a full-bodied red wine whose dusty tannins and dried
herb notes testify to its Alexander Valley terroir. Not a
blockbuster, but rich enough in cherries and blackberries to satisfy. Now–2013. —S.H.
87
Lake Sonoma 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley); $20. Lots of smooth tannins and succulent raspberry, cherry, cocoa and cedar
flavors in this dry Cabernet. It’s a bit sharp, but will
pair nicely with steaks and chops, and the price isn’t
bad. —S.H.
87
87
Mockingbird 2007 Red Label Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $170. A contro-
versial wine, tasted twice. It’s soft and tannic, with candied cherry-berry, mocha and sweet oak flavors. Seems
at once dull and powerful. Hard to know where it’s
going, but the benefit of the doubt suggests 4–5 years in
the cellar. —S.H.
85
BonAnno 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley); $20. Soft in the mouth and sweet in
extracted fruit, with blackberry and cherry jam flavors.
No problem getting ripe, but it could be drier and better structured. —S.H.
82
87
Pezzi King 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry
Creek Valley); $20. This is a good, dry, spicy
Cabernet. It shows the briary character of Dry Creek
Valley, with flavors of wild berries and tobacco, and
sandpapery tannins. Good price for a wine that gets
better as it breathes in the glass. —S.H.
85
Bota Box 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (California); $20. If more Americans are drinking
wine from a box, it’s because of values like this 3L, the
equivalent of four regular bottles. The wine is dry,
smooth and flavorful, and the blackberries, herbs and
spices are pleasant. Best Buy. —S.H.
81
Steltzner 2007 Pool Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District); $55. Dry, but
with some overripe notes, this Cabernet has aromas
and flavors of raisins, blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate and oak. The tannins are rich and smooth. Seems
best now, after a decant. —S.H.
Janzen 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley); $50. Soft, overripe and simple, with
chocolate-covered raisin, cassis and caramelized oak flavors. It’s delicious, in the modern style of ripe extraction, but lacks structure and dryness. —S.H.
87
Thirteen Appellations 2007 Meritage
(Napa Valley); $80. Very dark in color, dense
and thick in the mouth, and tight in astringent tannins.
Clearly an immature wine not showing well. The blackberry and cherry flavors are impressive, but the wine
seems disjointed. Cellaring is a gamble. —S.H.
87
85
Pennywise 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (California); $12. A lusty wine, soft and filled with
jammy blackberry, cherry and raspberry flavors. Easy to
drink, a great wine for big parties. —S.H.
85
85
Redtree 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (California); $8. For full review see page 9. Best
Buy.
Valley of the Moon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County); $18. For full review
see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
87
Black Stallion 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $23. A little sharp and onedimensional, but it shows ripe flavors of blackberries
and black currants, enhanced with toasty oak. At its best
now. —S.H.
86
De Sante 2007 Oakville Terraces Cabernet
Sauvignon (Oakville); $70. An average,
everyday Cab, dense and soft, made in the style of ripe
fruit and lots of oak. Tasted twice, with considerable
bottle variation. —S.H.
86
Geyser Peak 2007 Block Collection Walking Tree Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander
Valley); $25. Shows strong, extracted blackberry and
black cherry flavors, with a pie-filling spicy intensity.
Almost too much of a good thing. Might improve a little
in the bottle with a year or two. —S.H.
86
San Antonio 2007 Cask 520 (Paso Robles);
$30. Soft and creamy, like a chocolate and black
raspberry drink, sprinkled with pepper and cinnamon.
Almost like a Port in its sweetness. —S.H.
86
Steltzner 2008 Claret (Napa Valley); $18.
Dry and brittle, with some sharp tannic edges.
Yet it’s good and ripe in blackberries, cherries, currants
and cedar. Decent price for a Napa Cab. —S.H.
86
Terra Valentine 2007 Yverdon Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain);
$65. Sharp, simple and candied, with blackberry jam
and cola flavors. The tannins are rugged, and the wine
finishes with a scour of acidity. Seems at its best now. —
S.H.
86
Rock Wall 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $38. Lots of juicy cherry and
raspberry flavors in this Cabernet, with a caramelized
brown sugar sweetness, like it was baked into a pie.
Drink this easy, soft wine now. —S.H.
85
Geyser Peak 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley); $18. Soft and herbal,
with modest cherry and oak flavors. A simple, dry wine
to wash down everyday fare. —S.H.
84
Little Stone Vineyard 2007 Adrian’s
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $19. Soft, thin and simple. Other than that, it’s
not bad, with proper blackberry and spice flavors and
smooth tannins. Give it greater concentration, and the
score would rise. —S.H.
84
Roth 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $28. Sweet, soft and candied, with
black cherry and raspberry jam, Dr. Pepper cola and
cedar flavors. Seems pricey for what you get. —S.H.
84
Terra Valentine 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Spring Mountain); $40. There’s a vegetable
aroma in this wine, not exactly herbs, more like asparagus. In the mouth, the Cab tastes soft, sweet and candied. Average at best, and not an ager. —S.H.
84
Magness 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley); $20. Give this soft, simple Cab a little
time to blow off some unpleasant odors. After a while, it
clears, and the wine turns acceptable in berry-cherry
flavor. —S.H.
flipflop 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (California); $7. Just barely acceptable for its medicinal
taste and harsh texture. Shows some sweet blackberries on the finish. —S.H.
MERLOT
Clos du Val 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley);
$30. A dry, smooth Merlot that hews to the Clos
du Val style of lean fruit. The cherry, mocha and cedar
flavors have an edge of dried herbs and tobacco. Drink
this elegant wine now and through 2014. —S.H.
90
Reynolds Family Winery 2007 Merlot
(Stags Leap District); $40. A nice Merlot
whose rich tannins and elegance mark its Napa origins.
Although it finishes dry, it fills the mouth with ripe,
sweet cherry, red currant, toast and caramel flavors.
Needs lots of breathing to let it mellow. —S.H.
90
Matanzas Creek 2007 Merlot (Bennett Valley); $35. Quite a good wine, dry and firm in
tannins, with a certain distinguished elegance. It has
pleasant black and red cherry fruit, cola and sandalwood flavors, but would benefit from greater complexity and interest. Drink now. —S.H.
87
Steltzner 2007 Estate Merlot (Stags Leap
District); $34. An easy Merlot for drinking now
despite the firm tannins. Shows cherry, raisin, red
licorice, cola and bacon flavors that finish just a bit
sweet. Let it breathe for an hour or two before serving.
—S.H.
87
Pennywise 2009 Merlot (California); $12.
Good cherry, cocoa and sweet oak flavors in this
dry wine. It’s too soft, lacking structure, but is a pretty
good buy for the price. —S.H.
84
flipflop 2009 Merlot (California); $7. Candied and simple, with raspberry and cherry
Lifesaver flavors. Okay for big parties. —S.H.
83
PETITE SIRAH
Oberon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley); $22. Soft, simple and a little vegetal,
with modest blackberry and oak flavors. The tannins
are well-sculpted. —S.H.
Sean Thackrey 2008 Sirius Eaglepoint
Ranch Petite Sirah (Mendocino County);
$45. Eaglepoint Ranch has been source to powerful
red wines for many years, and here’s another one. It
impressives for the volume of tannins and fruity
ripeness. Swamps the mouth with blackberry and
cherry marmalade, bacon, pepper spice and smoky oak
flavors that are huge, yet balanced in tannins, oak and
acidity. The alcohol is 15.2%. —S.H.
Pianetta 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Monterey); $30. Way too sweet for a table wine
that’s supposed to be dry. Almost like a dessert wine,
with sugary cherry and raspberry flavors. —S.H.
Shypoke 2008 Amelia’s Block Petite Sirah
(Calistoga); $34. This is a dark, inky Petite
Sirah, dense in tannins and full-bodied. It basically
takes command of the palate and puts up a wall of
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astringency. That’s young Petite Sirah for you. Behind
that wall are rich flavors of blackberries and currants,
with a generous sweetness from toasty oak, and finished
with a hit of acidity. You should cellar this wine for at
least six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Esoterica by Kent Rasmussen 2008 ChavezLeeds Vineyard Petite Sirah (Rutherford);
$40. Rich in blackberry tart, dark chocolate, grilled
meat, pepper spice and smoky flavors, wrapped into
firm tannins. The acidity is strong and a little unnerving.
Drink over the next 2–3 years. —S.H.
86
Bardessono 2008 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley); $30. Shows Petite Sirah’s rustic, tannic
nature, with a robust body housing flavors of berries,
currants, carob powder, crisp bacon and sandalwood.
With its sweet finish, it doesn’t seem like a longterm
ager, but will mellow over the next several years. —S.H.
85
Pedroncelli 2008 Family Vineyards Petite
Sirah (Dry Creek Valley); $15. Good price
for a Petite Sirah that is perfect for drinking now with
roasts, barbecue, Mexican food. It’s dry and rustic in
tannins, with strong blackberry, coffee and red currant
flavors. —S.H.
85
Pennywise 2009 Petite Sirah (California);
$12. A sound everyday wine. For a decent
price, you get a full-bodied, dry Petite Sirah, with
plenty of berry jam and spice flavors. Easy to find, with
10,000 cases produced. —S.H.
83
Ramsay 2009 Petite Sirah (North Coast);
$19. Too sharp in acids, giving the cherry and
raspberry flavors a real bite. Almost sour on the finish.
Drink now. —S.H.
82
Redtree 2009 Petite Sirah (California); $8.
Soft and simple, with candied fruit, cola and
spice flavors. —S.H.
82
Victor Hugo 2007 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles); $22. So acidic, it’s like a flame thrower
down the tongue, like somebody spilled too much acid
into the vat. With raspberry and cherry flavors, it has
the taste of a sweet and sour throat lozange. —S.H.
81
Estrella Creek 2005 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles); $29. Tastes old, tired and vegetal, with
modest berry flavors. It’s also too soft and sweet. The
alcohol seems higher and hotter than the official reading of 14.3%. —S.H.
80
PINOT NOIR
Failla 2009 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $45. Failla has been working with the fruit from this coveted vineyard for a long
time, and has figured it out better than anyone. How
they take basic Russian River Valley cherry, raspberry
and cola flavors and uplift the wine into the extraordinarily exotic is inexplicable. But they do. An amazingly
complex, compelling young Pinot Noir. Drink
now–2019, at least. —S.H.
95
Thomas Fogarty 2008 Rapley Trail Vineyard Block M Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz
Mountains); $70. A beautiful Pinot Noir that shows
how well the variety does in these mountains, and it’s
sad that vineyard acreage is so low due to housing
development. The wine is dry, silky and vastly interesting in cherries, raspberries, Dr. Pepper cola, red
licorice, white pepper and sandalwood flavors. Compelling and complex now, it should age over the next six
years. —S.H.
94
Zotovich Cellars 2007 Estate Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills); $40. This is a dark, big, dense
Pinot Noir, and while some wines of this style are heavy
and dull, this one isn’t. It’s alive with zesty acidity, and has
the deepest cherry-berry flavors you can imagine. Lovely
spices, too, all tingly and mouthwatering. An important
addition to the Santa Rita pantheon, and it should
change interestingly over the next six years. —S.H.
94
Failla 2009 Pearlessence Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast); $42. Made in an exotic
style that will divide purists into opposing camps. It’s
dark, rich and almost heavy, with the weight of a
Grenache. Yet it’s utterly delicious, dazzling in wild
raspberry and cherry essence, thyme, cola, pie spice
and sandalwood flavors. A fascinating wine that should
do interesting things in the cellar. —S.H.
93
Siduri 2009 Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Mountain); $48. Firm in tannins, mouthwatering in acids, and bone dry, this is a
wine to hold for a while. The vineyard consistently
yields rich, complex Pinots from various wineries, and
Siduri again captures its essence as they have for many
years. The wine, which is one of Siduri’s ripest, shows
wild forest cherry, raspberry, cola and spice flavors, with
a feral quality suggesting grilled wild mushrooms and
balsam. Give it 2–3 years. —S.H.
93
Failla 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast);
$34. With its spicy, wild berry and pine notes,
this Pinot bears Failla’s distinctive mark. It’s a dry, complex and exotic young wine, brisk in acidity and wonderfully silky and elegant in the mouth. If you’re into flavor
identifiers, they’re wild raspberries and cherries. Good
price for a fine Failla wine. Best now and for the next
six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
92
Siduri 2009 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $50. Give this wine at
least two years in the cellar. Tasted in February, it’s way
too young to appreciate, being dominated by oak, tannins and primary cherry and pomegranate fruit. But it’s
clearly well grown and made, and shows its pedigree in
the superb structure and dryness. —S.H.
92
Thomas Fogarty 2008 Rapley Trail Vineyard Block B Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains); $70. A huge Pinot Noir, rich and delicious.
Shows great terroir, like it really comes from somewhere. A little soft in acids, but enormously lush in
cherries and raspberries, with a firm minerality that
must come from the ground. Aging could be a problem
given the softness, but it’s lovely now. —S.H.
92
Thomas Fogarty 2008 Windy Hill Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains); $50.
This Pinot Noir needs a few years in the cellar to mellow, although you can decant it now to let it breathe. It’s
very rich in cherries, raspberries, licorice and sweet,
smoky oak, with a soft, silky texture. Shows a real sense
of sophistication. —S.H.
92
Chime 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County);
Choice.
91
Churchill Cellars 2008 Bella Sonoma Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $39. This
Pinot is made in a lighter style, but it’s complex and
interesting. It’s marked by dryness and acidic crispness.
The raspberry, cola and persimmon flavors are enriched
with a touch of sweet, smoky oak. Seems best now, but
it could surprise over the next six years. —S.H.
91
Churchill Cellars 2008 Bella Luna Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $45. Give
this polished Pinot an hour or two of decanting and
serve it now with a good steak, or try prosciuttowrapped dates for an exotic appetizer. It’s dry, rich and
spicy, with ripe cherry, red currant, cola and bacon flavors, edged with sweet, smoky sandalwood. —S.H.
91
Thomas Fogarty 2008 Rapley Trail Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains);
$50. This is a very nice Pinot Noir for drinking soon.
It’s dry, silky and somewhat earthy and herbal, but turns
rich in cherries toward the finish. Feels elegant and
complex all the way through. —S.H.
91
Calera 2008 Ryan Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan);
$40. This bottling is always silky and accessible
on release, and so it is with the 2008. It’s lighter in color
than most of the top Pinots, but very complex, with wild
berry, mushroom, cola and spice flavors, brightened with
crisp acidity. Call it Burgundian. Lovely now as it warms
in the glass, but will develop in the bottle. —S.H.
90
Sean Thackrey 2008 Andromeda Devil’s
Gulch Ranch Pinot Noir (Marin County);
$45. An eccentric wine. Rather heavy for a classic coastal
Pinot Noir, yet not without charismatic charm. Shows
rich, deep flavors of wild raspberries, toffee, vanilla bean
and smoky wood. Gathers momentum and interest as it
breathes in the glass. Could substitute for everything
from Zinfandel to Grenache. Drink now. —S.H.
90
Siduri 2009 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir
(Green Valley); $50. A good Pinot Noir, lusty,
dry and fruity, although it’s a bit raw in youth. Shows
rich cherry marmalade, cola, spice and sandalwood flavors, brightened with crisp acidity. The vineyard is not
among the valley’s best, but Siduri interprets it as well
as anyone. —S.H.
90
V. Sattui 2009 Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands); $40. The winery used to make an indifferent Pinot Noir from
Carneros, but now they have some good fruit, and the
improvement shows. The wine is delightful, with crisp
acidity brightening very ripe flavors of raspberries, cola
90
and black cherries, with lots of smoky oak. Drink this
complex wine now and for the next few years. —S.H.
Windstream 2009 Sarmento Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands); $40.
With zesty acidity and plenty of upfront fruit flavor, this
Pinot is ready to drink now and over the next two years.
It’s rich and vibrant in cherry pie filling, red currant, red
licorice, bacon, cola, pepper and sandalwood flavors.
—S.H.
90
Calera 2008 de Villiers Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan); $35. Here’s a good, dry and fairly complex
Pinot Noir from the same estate as Calera’s better and
more expensive block bottings. It’s light bodied and
spicy, with earthy notes of tobacco, herbs, cherries and
sandalwood. Drink now, after a good decanting. —S.H.
89
Pali 2009 Riviera Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast); $19. Shows lots of class and finesse for
a Sonoma Coast Pinot that’s under $20. It’s fully dry
and zesty in acidity, with rich tannins framing cherry,
pomegranate, cola, spice and sandalwood flavors. A
great starter Pinot if you’re just getting into the variety.
Production was 3,576 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
89
Thomas Fogarty 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa
Cruz Mountains); $30. Fogarty’s basic Pinot
Noir is very good, although it’s not a wine for aging.
With its soft dryness and rich tannins, it shows polished
flavors of cherries, cola, herbs, cinnamon spice and subtle oak. —S.H.
89
Wedell Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills); $70. This is a big, rich, heavy Pinot Noir,
lacking vital structure. It feels flat. But the flavors are
enormously beautiful, rich in baked cherry pie filling,
Dr. Pepper cola, ginger cookie, sautéed mushroom and
smoky vanilla oak. Gains extra points for the sheer
drama of the flavors. —S.H.
89
Churchill Cellars 2008 Two Vineyard Blend
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $45. Churchill
makes Pinots in a lighter-bodied style, but they’re still
elegant and complex. This translucent wine is silky in
the mouth, and the raspberry, cherry, and cola flavors
are enhanced with brisk acidity. Best Now–2014. —S.H.
88
Kenwood 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley); $16. For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
88
Roth 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $27.
Some Sonoma Coast Pinots are dark, heavy and
dense, and this is one of them. It’s so rich and full-bodied
in black cherry, raspberry and currant fruit, it’s almost
like a Rhône wine. Defines a certain style, and delicious
at that, but not likely to age, so drink now. —S.H.
88
Siduri 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands); $29. Young, fresh and vibrant, Just
what you’d want a generic Santa Lucia Pinot to be, with
full-bodied tannins and potent cherry, currant, mushu
plum sauce and dusty spice flavors. Drink this dry wine
now. —S.H.
88
Tudal 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley); $50. The vineyard is
in a warmer part of the valley, and the wine is a bit rustic, lacking some delicacy. But it has deeply delicious
raspberry and cherry pie filling flavors, with earth and
licorice notes elaborated by smoky oak. Give it a good,
long decant. —S.H.
88
Zotovich Cellars 2008 Estate Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills); $38. Deliciously ripe, jammy
cherry, raspberry and cola fruit star on this dry wine,
with a sweet edge of smoky oak. The all-important tannins are smooth and refined. But there’s a hit of heat
from high alcohol that makes the finish hot. The official
alcohol on this ’08 is far higher than it was on the fabulous 2007 bottling. —S.H.
88
Calera 2009 Pinot Noir (Central Coast);
$24. Calera’s basic Central Coast Pinot is a
good, drily crisp wine, showing some real elegance. A
little heavy, it shows cherry, red currant, herb, tobacco,
teriaki beef and sandalwood flavors. Drink now. More
than 12,000 cases were produced. —S.H.
87
Castle Rock 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $18. A good, rich, everyday
Pinot Noir. Doesn’t seem all that much better than the
winery’s less inexpensive, non-reserve bottlings, but polished enough, with raspberry, cherry, cola and oak flavors. —S.H.
87
Clos du Val 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Carneros); $55. Somewhat lean and dry, a
wine whose tobacco, pepper and herb flavors overshadow its cherries and red currants. Call it elegant,
and drink now and over the next few years. —S.H.
87
Guarachi Family 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast); $65. Dark and heavy for a Pinot Noir,
although it’s certainly well made and delicious. Floods
the mouth with cherry and raspberry pie-filling fruit,
and the smoky, caramelized oak has a granola sweetness. Drink now. —S.H.
87
and a little heavy. It has cherry, cola, licorice, white pepper and smoky oak flavors, and the tannins are thick.
Lacks the vibrancy normally associated with this winery.
—S.H.
85
85
flipflop 2009 Pinot Noir (California); $7.
For full review see page 9. Best Buy.
Indulge 2009 Pinot Noir (Central Coast);
$20. A pretty good Pinot that, at the equivalent
of ten bucks a bottle, is a nice buy. It’s an easy wine, dry,
light-bodied and silky, with modest cherry and spice
flavors. —S.H.
Scott Cellars 2009 First Mesa Pinot Noir
(Santa Maria Valley); $38. Sharp and minty,
with a wintergreen tartness to the fruitier cherries and
herb tea. The wine is supple and dry, with a lovely silky
texture, but the acidity is strong. —S.H.
85
Armanino Family Cellars 2009 The
Whitewing Amber Ridge Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley); $50. There’s a burnt,
ashy smell and taste to this wine that makes it tough to
like. If you can get past that, the wine is dry, crisp and
tannic, with wild cherry, cola and cedar flavors. A huge
disappointment. Tasted twice. —S.H.
84
Byron 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara
County); $17. A raw, dry Pinot, marked by thin
cherry and tobacco flavors, and a scour of acidity and
alcohol. The texture is nice and silky, and the finish is
clean. Drink up. —S.H.
84
Picket Fence 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley); $18. Tough and acidic in the mouth,
but with a nice silky texture, and the finish is dry. Shows
cherry and raspberry flavors, alongside less ripe ones of
green mint, with a touch of the veggies. —S.H.
84
Red Pony Ranch 2008 Pinot Noir (Central
Coast); $15. A light Pinot Noir, dry and acidic,
with cherry, red licorice and sandalwood flavors. Pretty
good for the price. —S.H.
84
Pali 2009 Bluffs Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley); $19. Dry, tart and dependable, if not
especially complex, a nice Pinot for drinking now. Dusty
tannins frame fine flavors of sour cherry candy, raspberry jam, cola and sweet oak. —S.H.
84
Wedell Cellars 2007 Hillside Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Edna Valley); $125. A dark, rich,
concentrated wine that’s not particularly Pinot-like in
body. It’s more like a Rhône wine. But it’s good and
savory, with cherry and blackberry jam, baked pie crust
and spicy sandalwood flavors that turn overripe and
raisiny as you swallow. —S.H.
Red Pony Ranch 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa
Barbara County); $20. Light bodied and simple, with dry, thin flavors of Lifesaver cherry candy. In
Pinot Noir, you generally get what you pay for. —S.H.
87
87
Armanino Family Cellars 2009 The Pintail
Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia
Highlands); $50. Here’s a dark, big, tannic and rather
ponderous Pinot Noir. It could almost be Grenache, it’s
so heavy. Shows good cherry fruit, with a sweet cover of
smoky oak. Seems best now. —S.H.
86
86
Gainey 2008 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills);
$30. Gainey’s basic Pinot is dry, dark in color
Red Pony Ranch 2008 Pinot Noir (Santa
Maria Valley); $25. Give this young Pinot a
few hours in a decanter to let it air. Right out of the bottle, it’s tough and tight, with polished cherry and oak
flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
83
SANGIOVESE
Shypoke 2008 Olivia’s Block Sangiovese
(Calistoga); $29. Lots of toasty oak on this dry
Sangiovese. It avoids the problems that often plague
this variety, coming down on the lighter-bodied side,
dry and crisp in acidity, with pleasant cherry, tobacco
and spice flavors. Try as an interesting alternative to
Zinfandel. —S.H.
88
WineMag.com | 43
I
BUYING GUIDE
Scott Cellars 2008 Reserve White Hawk
Vineyard Sangiovese (Santa Barbara
County); $42. Simple and sweet, a hot, acidic wine
with cherry, red currant and cola flavors. Lacks balance
and complexity, especially at this price. —S.H.
84
Pianetta 2008 Sangiovese (Monterey);
$26. Dry and very acidic, with a cutting edge of
tartness alongside the cherry and tobacco flavors. Rich
meats and cheeses will help soften it. —S.H.
83
Scott Cellars 2008 Sand Dune Sangiovese
(Santa Barbara County); $28. Hot in alcohol, acidic and sweet in raspberries and cherries, this
bizarre wine does not advance the argument for Sangiovese in California. —S.H.
81
SYRAH
Donelan 2008 Richards Family Vineyard
Syrah (Sonoma Valley); $90. This is not only
one of the best Syrahs of the vintage, it’s easily the
greatest Syrah ever produced from Sonoma Valley.
Stuns with its soft, complex, black and blue berry, teriaki beef, black pepper and sandalwood flavors. The
depth is unbelievable, the length impressive. Clearly a
first growth Syrah, and should develop bottle complexity for the next six years, if not longer. —S.H.
97
Donelan 2008 Cuvée Keltie Syrah
(Sonoma County); $75. A beautiful young
wine, notable for two things, its balance and generosity.
Feels wonderfully structured, with superb tannins and a
fine dose of acidity framing massive blackberry, currant, bacon, black pepper, mineral and sandalwood flavors. Bone dry, it’s a superior Syrah that should develop
over the next 4–6 years. —S.H.
94
Syrah (Green Valley); $45. For full review
see page 3. Cellar Selection.
94
Michael David 2008 6th Sense Syrah Syrah
(Lodi); $16. For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.
93
Novy 2008 Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands);
$27. A very fine Syrah, dry, peppery and distinguished. Really defines the cool-climate style of the
variety, a full-bodied wine with blackberry, grilled meat
and sweetly smoked, sandalwood flavors. The tannins
are very refined. The quality of this wine far exceeds
the price. A great restaurant Syrah, but production was
only 398 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
93
Rusack 2008 Ballard Canyon Estate Syrah
(Santa Barbara County); $36. From Rusack’s
estate vineyard, this is a very fine, young Syrah. It shows
rich blackberry, red currant, licorice, cocoa, smoked
meat and sandalwood flavors, but is also quite tannic,
and some of those tannins come from new oak. If you
drink it now, give it a good decant. Should hold in the
bottle for at least six years. —S.H.
93
93
Sean Thackrey 2008 Orion Rossi Vineyard
(St. Helena); $90. Made from a 106-year-old
vineyard in Napa Valley, this wine is usually referred to
as Syrah, but its exact components are difficult to
define, except to call the wine Rhône-like. It’s luxuriously soft in the mouth, with complex flavors of black
raspberries, cocoa, cola, herbs, peppery spices and sandalwood. Extraordinarily rich, the wine develops bottle
nuances as it warms in the glass. —S.H.
Donelan 2009 Walker Vine Hill Syrah
(Russian River Valley); $45. Very young,
needs plenty of time. Still showing fermentation notes,
with brisk, grapey acidity and primary cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. Seems brilliantly constructed and
capable of aging, though. Hold until after 2012. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
92
92
92
Hall 2007 Darwin Red Wine (Napa Valley);
$40. For full review see page 5.
Rusack 2008 Syrah (Santa Barbara
County); $25. A huge wine, explosive in ripe
fruit, elaborated with rich oak and wrapped into
smooth, sweet tannins. Made from vineyards throughout the county, it dazzles with a complex of blackberry
jam, mocha, date, bacon and smoky sandalwood flavors.
Really impressive, especially at this price. Drink
Now–2015. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
ity of Novy’s single-vineyard Syrahs, it’s drily elegant,
with complex blackberry, cola, herb and pepper flavors
that shift in the glass as the wine airs. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
Cinnabar 2008 Sextant Vineyard Syrah
(Paso Robles); $36. Rich, dry and tannic, this
Syrah has elaborate flavors of dried plums, blackberries, coffee, dark bitter chocolate and black pepper. It’s
a complex wine, compromised only by the heat of
15.4% alcohol. —S.H.
87
Krow Shore 2008 Syrah (Santa Barbara);
$16. Good price for a rich, textured Syrah.
Shows delicious cherry, black raspberry, chocolate, anise,
pepper and sandalwood flavors, wrapped into smooth
tannins. Drink this soft, fruity Syrah now. —S.H.
87
Pianetta 2007 Estate Bottled Syrah (Monterey); $25. Lots of acidity and black pepper in
this bone-dry wine, giving it a scoury mouthfeel. But
you’ll find very rich, elaborate blackberry and cherry
jam, chocolate and bacon flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
87
Taj 2007 Syrah (Los Carneros); $24. A
smooth, ripe Syrah, easy and soft in the mouth,
with richly extracted berry, mocha, white pepper and
sandalwood flavors. It’s a dry, balanced wine showing
some real elegance.—S.H.
87
Zotovich Cellars 2008 Estate Syrah (Sta.
Rita Hills); $42. A rich, robust Syrah, impressive
for sheer volume and intensity. Floods the mouth with
ripe flavors of blackberries, cassis, chocolate, smoked
meats, black pepper and cedar. High in alcohol, which
will alarm purists, and there’s some burn on the finish.
The wine calls for richly slathered barbecue. —S.H.
86
Beckmen 2008 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley); $48. On
par with the ’07 vintage, if not quite so captivating. It’s a
soft, luxuriously velvety wine, rich in blackberry jam,
chocolate, violet, smoked meat and sandalwood flavors,
generously spiced. The official alcohol is 14.7%, but it
seems higher and hotter than that. —S.H.
86
Donelan 2008 Cuvée Christine Syrah
(North Coast); $45. This elegantly fruity wine
is made for drinking now with spicy meats, like sausages
and lamb chops. It’s dry and velvety in the mouth, with
appealing flavors of raspberries and cherries, Dr. Pepper cola and peppery spices, accented with sweet,
smoky oak. —S.H.
Baldassari Family Wines 2007 Nolan Vineyards Syrah (Bennett Valley); $27. Soft,
sweet in jammy raspberry and cherry fruit and
caramelized oak, this Syrah is somewhat simple. It’s
good, but would benefit from greater structure. —S.H.
91
90
90
Syrah (Green Valley); $45. A tough, tannic
young wine that will benefit from two or three years in
the bottle, but probably no more. It’s bone dry and
astringent now, with an intense core of blackberries,
grilled meat and black pepper. Give it a few hours in a
decanter before pouring. —S.H.
90
Valley of the Moon 2008 Syrah (Sonoma
County); $16. For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
89
Novy 2009 Syrah (Sonoma County); $19.
Great price for a Syrah this good, from this
esteemed producer. While it doesn’t have the complex-
88
Baldassari Family Wines 2007 Jemrose
Vineyard Syrah (Bennett Valley); $30.
Fruity enough, with powerfully ripe blackberry, cherry,
raspberry, currant, chocolate and licorice flavors that
go on and on through the long, spicy finish. Could show
greater structure, though, as it’s somewhat soft, sweet
and unidimensional. —S.H.
Taj 2007 Syrah (Sonoma Valley); $24. Nice
blackberry, mocha, teriyaki beef and pepper flavors in this dry, smoothly tannic wine. It’s too soft to
show development in the bottle, but is pretty good for
drinking now. —S.H.
85
Borra 2008 47.5 Degree Limited Release
Syrah (Clements Hills); $35. Jammy and yet
still savory, a fairly straightforward Syrah from the
Clements Hills area of Lodi, small production (240
cases), 100% varietal and made using native fermentation, the wine has solid tannin structure and a heady
texture, but could use more oomph on the finish. —V.B.
85
D.H. Gustafson 2010 Heritage Tree Vineyard Rosé of Syrah (Dry Creek Valley);
$20. A pretty good rosé, full-bodied and robust in black
cherry, strawberry, Dr. Pepper cola, rosehip tea and
spice flavors. It finishes a little sweet. —S.H.
85
83
San Simeon 2007 Syrah (Paso Robles);
$25. You’ll find smooth, polished tannins on this
full-bodied wine, but it’s all downhill from there. It’s
excessively soft, and the finish is sugary sweet. —S.H.
berries, mocha and roasted hazelnuts. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
ZINFANDEL
88
Sobon Estate 2008 Cougar Hill Zinfandel
(Amador County); $17. For full review see
84
Greenwood Ridge 2008 Scherrer Vineyard
Zinfandel (Sonoma County); $27. Tastes
jammy and sharp, like a barrel sample, with acidic flavors
of raspberries, black cherries and spices. The tannins are
rich and smooth. A very good wine, but bristly and tough
in youth. Give it a few years to mellow. —S.H.
84
page 7.
V. Sattui 2008 Black-Sears Vineyard Zinfandel (Howell Mountain); $40. The vineyard has been source of good Zinfandel for V. Sattui,
and this is their best yet. The wine is enormously rich
and ripe in berry, cherry, currant, mocha and pepper
flavors, but its structure really warrants attention. Perfectly firm tannins, fine acidity, and a touch of minerality gives the wine grounding. The alcohol is high, but in
keeping with the wine’s expression. —S.H.
93
Dark Matter 2006 Zinfandel (Howell
Mountain); $100. Made in a ripe, soft style
that’s unusual for Howell Mountain, this Zin could
almost be Grenache, or even a big Pinot Noir. The
cherry pie filling, raspberry cream and Dr. Pepper flavors are wrapped into soft, gentle tannins. It’s a luxurious, exotic Zinfandel whose heat from high alcohol adds
a spicy element. —S.H.
92
Elyse 2007 Zinfandel (Howell Mountain);
$37. A real bruiser of a Zinfandel, dark in color,
dry and tannic, brimming with massive flavors of wild
blackberries, blueberries, dark chocolate and pie spices.
The tannins are hard, in the way of this mountain.
Drink Now–2013 before it loses fresh fruit. —S.H.
91
Elyse 2007 Morisoli Vineyard Zinfandel
(Napa Valley); $37. Immature now, with
sweet, jammy berry fruit, currants and hard tannins,
and the oak overlay hasn’t been integrated yet. But
there’s a lot going on in this spicy, bold Zin. Give it 3–4
years. —S.H.
90
90
Joel Gott 2008 Dillian Ranch Zinfandel
(Amador County); $28. For full review see
page 6.
Pezzi King 2008 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $18. Classic Dry Creek Zin, dry, spicy and
briary. Has those rustic tannins that just love cheese,
tomato sauce, spice-rubbed barbecue or a great beef
taco. Perfect ripeness, too, brimming with raspberries,
blackberries and blueberries. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
87
Pezzi King 2008 Old Vines Zinfandel (Dry
Creek Valley); $24. This lusty Zinfandel was
built to drink with barbecue. It’s rich, thick and heady,
with over 16% of alcohol. Superripe flavors of cherries,
blackberries and raspberries, sprinkled with pepper,
cinnamon and cocoa are almost like Port. A distinctive
Zin for those who like this style. —S.H.
87
Zahtila 2007 Oat Hill Estate Zinfandel (Calistoga); $45. Rich and jammy in blackberry,
black cherry and blueberry fruit, with a smoky overlay
from oak. Some overripe notes show up in the finish.
Drink this polished, spicy Zin now. —S.H.
87
Terra d’Oro 2007 Zinfandel (Amador
County); $18. A dry, tannic Zinfandel from
Amador, fairly large production at 14,000 cases a year,
with enough blueberry, sweet black olive and spice on
the finish to make the whole package a nicely made
bottling from a Sierra Foothills Zin specialist. —V.B.
86
Carol Shelton 2008 Monga Zin, Lopez
Vineyard Zinfandel (Cucamonga Valley);
$21. Not a ton of fruit on the nose but a respectable
single-vineyard from Zin master Carol Shelton made
from organically grown, dry-farmed 92-year-old vines,
coaxed into a spicy, brambly wine from a very unusual
appellation. —V.B.
85
Novy 2009 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley); $19. A good, everyday Zinfandel, spicy
and fruity. It has lots of raspberry and cherry jam,
chocolate and pepper flavors that finish a little sweet.
—S.H.
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85
Carol Shelton 2007 Wild Thing, Cox Vineyard Zinfandel (Mendocino County); $24.
A very fruity, juicy Zin from Shelton, this time from
one of her consistent sources of organically grown
grapes in Mendocino, just north of Ukiah. The “wild”
name comes from the wild yeast fermentation the wine
goes through, helping to coax raspberry, cassis, black
pepper and spice out of the wine. —V.B.
Haraszthy 2008 Zinfandel (Amador
County); $15. Val Haraszthy, the great-greatgrandson of California viticultural pioneer Agoston
Haraszthy, has made California Zins his focus, with
offerings from Sonoma, Howell Mountain and here,
Amador County. The result here is a tad rough, an
unbelievably big (15.6% alcohol) wine that doesn’t
deliver much yet in terms of aroma or taste. Maybe in
time? —V.B.
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Sobon Estate 2008 Fiddletown Zinfandel
(Fiddletown); $20. For full review see page 7.
Ottimino Vineyards 2007 Zinfinity Zinfandel (Sonoma County); $16. Great price from
a winery that’s consistently been producing top Zins.
This one’s actually blended with 11% Petite Sirah. The
wine is rich and lusty, with spicy flavors of ripe summer
soft and gentle and slightly sweet. The raspberry, licorice,
raisin and cocoa flavors are rich and spicy. —S.H.
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Headbanger 2009 Zinfandel (Sonoma
County); $20. Here’s a simple, easy Zin for
downing with barbecue, mac and cheese, that sort of
thing. It’s light in body and silky, with candied raspberry and spice flavors. —S.H.
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Maddalena 2008 Zinfandel (Paso Robles);
$15. This is a simple, easy- drinking Zinfandel,
Rock Wall 2009 Stagecoach Vineyard Zinfandel (Napa Valley); $40. A bizarre interpretation of this vineyard, which usually produces
magnificent wines. This Zin is soft and melted, lacking
supportive structure, and it’s as sweet as a raspberry
and sugar confection. —S.H.
Taj 2008 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $24.
Tough and gritty, with uneven tannins and
some minty green flavors alongside the cherries, mulberries and red currants. Not going anywhere, so drink
up. —S.H.
Tortoise Creek 2009 The Chelonian Zinfandel (Lodi); $11. Tortoise Creek makes bargain
wines from the Languedoc region of France as well as
from Lodi. “The Chelonian” is a new label a portion of
the proceeds of which will go to the Chelonian
Research Foundation to help benefit the conservation
of turtles and tortoises. The wine itself is a decent representation of Lodi’s bigger, more raisiny style. —V.B.
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Zahtila 2006 Oat Hill Estate Zinfandel (Calistoga); $45. Smells a little unripe, with some
green notes and a sweet funkiness. Tastes curiously
sweet and soft, like melted raspberry and cherry candy.
Not likely to age. —S.H.
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Gravity Hills 2009 The Sherpa Zinfandel
(Central Coast); $12. This is a simple wine,
sharp in acidity and dry, with spicy Zin flavors of
berries. Okay with pizza, burgers, barbecue. —S.H.
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Mazzocco 2008 Pony Zinfandel (Dry Creek
Valley); $32. Soft, melted and sweet, like a
cherry, blueberry and chocolate dessert in liquid form.
Overripe, too. The official alcohol is 15.5%. —S.H.
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Midnight Cellars 2006 Crescent Zinfandel
(Paso Robles); $19. With high alcohol making
for a hot mouthfeel, this Zinfandel also is deficient in
acidity, and tastes sweet in berry jam flavors. It’s an oldfashioned wine that hasn’t kept pace with the modern
Paso Robles style. —S.H.
83
Mazzocco 2008 West Dry Creek Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley); $32. Shows overripe flavors in the raisins that gives a Port-like taste, and with
alcohol well over 16%, it’s hot. An inelegant, heavy Zin.
—S.H.
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Mazzocco 2008 Stone Zinfandel (Alexander Valley); $29. Tastes overly soft, too sweet
and hot, with berry, chocolate-covered raisin and Port
flavors. Not for everyone. —S.H.
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Redtree 2009 Zinfandel (California); $8.
Soft, simple and a little vegetal, with a green,
asparagus taste alongside the blackberries. A decent
party wine where no one really cares, as long as the
wine is red. —S.H.
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BUYING GUIDE
OTHER REDS
Kenefick Ranch 2006 Pickett Road Red
Cellar Selection.
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Somerston 2007 Highflyer Centerline
(Napa Valley); $28. Lots of ripe cherries,
blackberries and dried herbs in this young, vigorous
wine. Shows considerable power and authority, at the
loss perhaps of some charm and elegance. Drink it over
the next 6–8 years. —S.H.
Kenefick Ranch 2007 Caitlin’s Select
Cabernet Franc (Calistoga); $52. Almost too
ripe and fruity, with jammy, pie-filling blackberry and
cherry flavors. Lots of oak, too, giving the wine a
caramelized sweetness. A bit heavy-handed, but tasty.
Drink now. —S.H.
Clos Pegase 2007 Dunaweal Vineyard
Pegaso (Napa Valley); $28. A flavorful,
robust wine, made from Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and
Syrah grown in the winery’s estate vineyard in Calistoga. With wildly exuberant wild blackberry, red currant, tobacco, exotic Indian spice and sandalwood
flavors, its tannins are brisk and firm. Calls for umami
rich fare, such as beef stews, hard cheeses and upscale
Mexican fare. Drink this interesting, fun wine now. —
S.H.
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Sean Thackrey NV Pleiades XIX Old Vines
(California); $24. With a translucent ruby color
and silky texture, this could be a Pinot Noir. But it’s a
blend of Sangiovese, Voignier, Mourvèdre and several
other varieties, and shows its own unique profile. Dry
and crisp, the flavors are fruity, floral, herbal and spicy.
Raspberries, cherries, thyme, white pepper, bacon,
oregano and smoky sandalwood only begin to describe
the complexities. They change by the second in the
glass, but always finish dry. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
88
Reverie 2008 Estate Petit Verdot (Diamond Mountain); $75. Petite Verdot is a difficult wine to make interesting in its own right, but
Reverie has pulled it off. It’s very much like a Diamond
Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, dry, tannic and filled
with blackberry, cherry and cassis flavors. Not exactly
clear why you’d want a Petite Verdot instead of a
Cabernet, except for the interest value, but it’s certainly
an achievement. —S.H.
Reverie 2008 Estate Cabernet Franc (Diamond Mountain); $60. Not clear that Cab
Franc deserves a bottling on its own, as it’s better as a
blending wine. That said, this is a pretty, polished red
wine, full-bodied and dry in cherry, spice and oak flavors. Drink now and over the next five years. —S.H.
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Viader 2008 Estate Limited Edition (Napa
Valley); $50. This interesting wine is an
unusual blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties with nearly half Syrah. It does what
Napa does so well, offering a plethora of ripe, delicious
cherry, black raspberry, dark chocolate, sweetly smoked
oak and peppery spice flavors that are deep and long on
the finish. A lovely, accessible wine to drink over the
next few years. —S.H.
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Beckmen 2008 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley); $48.
The combination of very high alcohol and what tastes
like residual sugar gives this Grenache an excessively
sweet, glyceriney taste. It’s fabulously rich in raspberry
cream, blackberry jam, mocha, vanilla and cinnamon
spice flavors. Very flamboyant and delicious, but really
more of a dessert wine than a dry table wine. —S.H.
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Shypoke 2008 Charbono (Calistoga); $40.
Charbono is an old-fashioned grape that almost
nobody makes anymore, but Shypoke is giving it some
love, and good for them. This is a really nice wine. It’s
as full-bodied, dry and tannic as a Merlot, but with different flavors, of black cherries, grilled meats and
mushu plum sauce, with dusty exotic spices and a touch
of funky smoke. It’s soft enough to drink now. —S.H.
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Stonehedge 2007 Terroir Select Grenache
(Mendocino County); $26. A delicious
Grenache sourced from Mendocino’s Eaglepoint Vineyards, a high-elevation, cool-climate site with a peppery
opening note that extends itself through dense chewy
tannins and the bright fruitiness and inviting aromatics
we all love about Grenache. A very nice bottle of wine
with great backbone and depth that should age another
5–10 years. —V.B.
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Arrowood 2007 Malbec (Sonoma Valley);
$42. A bit rustic and rowdy, in the way of Malbec, with big, edgy tannins and a scour of acidity. Whatever elegance it lacks, it makes up for in the sheer
power of its blackberry and coffee fruit flavors. Will
probably age forever, gradually mellowing and sweetening, without ever showing much complexity. —S.H.
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Cinnabar 2008 Sorcerer’s Stone (California); $45. This unusual blend of Petite Sirah
and Teroldego is very rich and ripe, brimming with
blackberry, grilled mushrooms splashed with balsamic,
cassis, pepper and cedar. It has lovely tannins, soft and
refined. The only problem is excessive heat from high
alcohol. —S.H.
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Elyse 2006 Hudson Vineyard Le Corbeau
(Los Carneros); $28. A blend of Grenache and
Syrah, this is a soft, gentle wine. It’s made for drinking
now, and has delicious, forward flavors of cherry jam,
red currants, milk chocolate and pie spices. —S.H.
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Koehler 2008 Les 3 Cépages (Santa Ynez
Valley); $40. A rich, elegant and accessible
blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with wellripened cherry, berry, currant, spice and cedar flavors.
Showing its best now, so drink up. —S.H.
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Mojon’s Bench 2007 Syncopation (Alexander Valley); $36. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet
Franc and Syrah, this wine is very rich and extracted in
pie-filling fruit flavors. The grapes certainly had no
trouble getting ripe. It’s a little heavy and soft in the
mouth, and not likely to age, so drink now. —S.H.
Stave 28 2008 Echo (California); $19. A
simple but likeable red blend, dry and supple in
tannins, with earthy, sweet flavors of berries, cherries,
tobacco and cedar. —S.H.
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A.S. Kiken 2008 Red Wine (Diamond
Mountain); $40. Some awkward flavors and
textures in this dry, tannic wine. Polished blackberries
and cherries co-exist beside less ripe mint, and the tannins and acids are sharp and green. Seems like problems at the sorting table. —S.H.
85
Donelan 2008 Cuvée Moriah GrenacheSyrah (Sonoma County); $40. Not in the
same league as Donelan’s Syrahs. The Grenache seems
to drag it down. It’s paler in color, there’s a vegetal
smell, and it’s simple in berry, cola and spice flavors.
Drink now. —S.H.
85
San Antonio 2007 Heritage (Paso Robles);
$30. This Rhône-style blend smells and tastes a
little hot. The official alcohol is 14.5%, yet there’s a
white pepper, prickly heat to the raspberry jam and
mocha flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
85
Loomis 2008 Ember (Napa Valley); $32.
Dry and simple, with pleasant herb, raspberry
tea and spice flavors. A little soft and sweet, but okay
for everyday fare. —S.H.
84
Scott Cellars 2008 Cuvée F SangioveseSyrah (Santa Barbara County); $34. A simple wine, extracted and jammy in raspberries, cherries
and blackberries. Very high alcohol and black pepper
flavors combine to create a hot mouthfeel. The wine is
also sweet in glycerine. —S.H.
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Pianetta 2008 Barbera (Paso Robles); $27.
Heavy, sweet and dull. Shows soft, sugary flavors of cherries and mocha, with thick tannins. Not
likely to develop in the bottle. —S.H.
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Arrowood 2007 Coté de Lune Rouge Lasseter Vineyards (Sonoma Valley); $30. A
simple but likeable wine, dry, earthy and hot in alcohol,
with raspberry jam, Provençal herb, tobacco, toast and
spicy flavors. Drink now with Mediterranean-style fare.
—S.H.
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Bacio Divino 2008 Red Wine (Napa Valley);
$80. Heavy and sweet, almost sugary in blackberry, currant and chocolate flavors, with a smoky, hot
finish. A good wine that will appeal to those who like its
candied taste. —S.H.
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Pianetta 2008 Bilancio Estate Bottled
Syrah-Cabernet (Monterey); $36. Soft and
sugary sweet, this blend has dessert wine flavors of
raspberries and milk chocolate. There’s a tug of vegetal
unripeness. —S.H.
Reverie 2008 Estate Barbera (Diamond
Mountain); $50. There’s a reason few wineries
nowadays produce Barbera. It’s a boring wine, and just
because it comes from as fine a producer as Reverie
can’t change that fact. The wine is dry, tannic and dull,
with unevenly ripened flavors. —S.H.
CALIFORNIA WHITES
CHARDONNAY
Failla 2009 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay
(Sonoma Coast); $44. A very good Chardonnay whose dryness, acidity, minerality and cleanliness
are characteristic of the vineyard. It’s a Chablis-style
wine, lean and lemony, with an oaky coat. Doesn’t seem
quite up there with previous vintages, but a very fine,
complex wine made for early drinking. —S.H.
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G u a r a c h i F a m i l y 2 0 0 9 C h a rd o n n a y
(Sonoma Coast); $30. A big improvement
over the winery’s last release, this ’09 Chardonnay is
rich and oaky and crisp in acidity. It’s just delicious,
with ripe pineapple jam, buttered toast, créme brûlée
and vanilla flavors. Made in a big, powerful style, but
balanced. Drink now. —S.H.
92
J Vineyards & Winery 2009 Barrel 16
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $40.
This small-production Chard is a real success for J. It’s
comprised of their best fruit from warmer and cooler
parts of the valley. The flavors are complex, ranging
from apricots and tangerines to lemons and golden
mangoes, while oak adds lovely notes of buttered toast
and créme brûlée. Drink now. —S.H.
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Zahtila 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Valley);
$22. Starts with a burst of fresh, clean lemon
aroma, and turns zesty and bright in the mouth, offering waves of Meyer lemon and golden mango. A superior Chardonnay at a good price. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
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Matanzas Creek 2008 Chardonnay
(Sonoma County); $29. For full review see
page 5.
Robert Mondavi 2008 Reserve Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $40. Lots of oaky richness
in this detailed, highly enjoyable Chardonnay. It’s tart
and savory in acid-tinged lemondrop candy, tangerine
and Asian pear flavors, elaborated with sweet buttered
toast. Elegant and upscale, a wine to drink now. —S.H.
91
Rusack 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa
Maria Valley); $32. Made the same way as the
winery’s previous reserves, with ripe, lush fruit that was
barrel fermented in half-new oak and aged sur lies. It’s
a very rich wine, elaborate in pineapple jam, lemon tart,
crême brulée and buttered toast flavors. Opulently
powerful, but could use greater elegance and finesse.
—S.H.
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Sebastiani 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma
County); $13. For full review see page 8. Best
Buy.
Zotovich Cellars 2008 Estate Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills); $40. Lots of acidity in this
dry, Chablis-style wine. It’s not one of your opulent fruit
91
bombs, but restrained and controlled, showing a mineral profile framing Meyer lemon, lime and pineapple
fruit. An elegant, sophisticated Chardonnay for drinking
now, but not too cold. Tasted twice. —S.H.
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Cinnabar 2007 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz
Mountains); $29. For full review see page 6.
Falcone 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara
County); $25. Falcone wisely reins in the fruity
richness and oak on this wine, allowing acidity and citrus flavors to star. That is a nod to Santa Barbara’s coolclimate terroir, not winemaker interference. The wine
is dry, crisp and minerally, with subtle lime, Meyer
lemon and Asian pear flavors, with a hint of oak. A
lovely restaurant wine at a fair price. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
Laird 2008 Red Hen Ranch Chardonnay
(Oak Knoll); $35. Soft and rich, this Chardonnay shows intricately layered flavors of buttered toast,
grilled peaches, orange jam, honeysuckle flowers and
cinnamon. An opulent wine to drink now. —S.H.
90
Cambria 2008 Katherine’s V ineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley); $22.
Shows lots of flamboyant pineapple, pear and green
apple flavors, with a deft touch of smoky oak. But the
wine is uplifted by a firm, steely minerality, as well as
fine acids. It finishes a little sweet. Drink now. —S.H.
89
Francis Coppola 2009 Diamond Collection
G o l d L a b e l C h a rd o n n a y ( M o n t e re y
County); $16. For full review see page 6. Editors’
Choice.
89
Laird 2008 Cold Creek Ranch Chardonnay
(Los Carneros); $30. A rich, buttery Chardonnay, brimming with well-oaked pineapple, honey, créme
brûlée and spice flavors, brightened with acidity. A real
crowd pleaser. —S.H.
89
Staglin 2008 Chardonnay (Rutherford);
$75. Exotic, with tropical fruit, orange, peach,
white flower, roasted marshmallow and spice flavors.
Doesn’t really taste like Chardonnay, more like Roussanne. The structure is a bit soft, but it’s an interesting
wine. —S.H.
88
Tayson Pierce Estate Wines 2008 Alder
Springs Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendocino); $49. A pleasantly rich Chardonnay, brimming
with white peach, pineapple, lemon tart and buttered
toast flavors. Gets better as it breathes in the glass.
Drink now. —S.H.
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Black Stallion 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $18. This is a dry, earthy Chardonnay,
with an herbal taste behind the orange, kiwi and cream
flavors. Crisp acidity makes it clean and zesty. —S.H.
87
Clos du Val 2008 Reserve Chardonnay
(Carneros); $45. Hard to say just why this
Chard isn’t better. It’s nicely dry, with decent acidity,
good oak and a mineral background to the citrus and
peach flavors. There’s just a heaviness that keeps the
wine from getting airborne. —S.H.
87
Gary Farrell 2008 Russian River Selection
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $32.
Shows the Farrell mark of elegance, with balanced
ripeness and acidity. Bigtime flavors of pineapples and
tangerines mingle with caramelized oak, with additional buttered toast and vanilla richness. A crowdpleasing Chardonnay that shouldn’t be consumed too
cold. —S.H.
87
Koehler 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa
Ynez Valley); $30. Strong in fruit and powerful in oak, made in the popular California style.
Impresses with pineapple jam, buttered popcorn and
vanilla flavors, in a creamy texture. Needs greater complexity and nuance. —S.H.
87
Novy 2009 Keefer Ranch Chardonnay
(Green Valley); $22. Made in the popular
style, with loads of sweet, smoky oak that dominate
everything. Shows buttered toast and vanilla flavors
plastered over the perfectly pleasant pineapples,
lemons and minerals. —S.H.
87
Robert Mondavi 2008 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley); $20. Soft and creamy, with flavors of
buttered toast, pineapple marmalade and candy corn.
Made in the ripe, oaky, drink-me-now modern style.
—S.H.
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Roth 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast);
$20. Lots of crunchy acidity in this Chardonnay,
and smoky oak too, with buttered toast and pineapple
jam flavors. Tastes rich, clean, fine and opulent, in the
California style. —S.H.
87
Venge 2009 Maldonado Vineyard Dijon
Clones Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $39.
Loads of pineapple jam and roasted peach flavors in this
rich, oaky Chardonnay. Nothing shy about its fruity
power, with rich vanilla and caramel oak barrel influences. Could use greater complexity and nuance. —S.H.
87
Wrath 2008 San Saba Vineyard Chardonnay (Monterey); $49. Made in the modern
way of very ripe fruit and lots of oak, this Chardonnay
certainly delivers plenty of pineapple jam, tangerine,
Meyer lemon tart, vanilla and buttered toast flavors. It’s
fortunately balanced with crisp acidity. Designed for
the Chard crowd that likes this popular style. —S.H.
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Buena Vista 2008 Chardonnay (Carneros);
$18. Will satisfy Chard fans who like ripe fruit
and plenty of oak. Shows pineapple marmalade, orange
fruit cake, vanilla, buttered popcorn and smoky oak flavors, finished with brisk acidity. —S.H.
86
Byron 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara
County); $15. Made in the modern style, with
plenty of sweet oak and modest lime, green apple, persimmon and buttered toast flavors, brightened with acidity. Shows good varietal character for the price. —S.H.
86
De Sante 2008 Old Vine Chardonnay
(Napa Valley); $35. This is a richly sweet
Chardonnay, made in the popular style, for drinking
now. The orange, pineapple and apricot flavors are
savory, and the oak gives caramel notes. —S.H.
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BUYING GUIDE
Mi Sueño 2008 Chardonnay (Los
Carneros); $38. Flamboyantly rich and manipulated Chardonnay, with buttered popcorn, tropical
fruit and caramaelized toast flavors. Feels a little heavyhanded, but lots of Chard lovers will like it. —S.H.
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V. Sattui 2008 Chardonnay (Napa Valley);
$22. Simple in buttered popcorn and toast flavors, this Chard has underlying flavors of pineapples.
It’s a dry wine, crisp in acidity. Made in the popular
style for drinking now. —S.H.
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Fleming Jenkins 2009 Jenkins Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains); $40.
Simple and concocted, with layers of sweet,
caramelized oak, pineapple jam and buttered popcorn.
Good acidity makes it bracing. Lots of people will like
it, but it needs to be drier and more interesting at this
price. —S.H.
85
Hanna 2009 Chardonnay (Russian River
Valley); $26. Made in the popular style, this
Chardonnay offers ripe pineapple, orange jam, buttered popcorn and spice flavors. It’s soft and a little
sweet. —S.H.
85
Novy 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard Chardonnay
(Santa Lucia Highlands); $28. Too oaky, with
toothpicky vanilla and caramel flavors swamping the
underlying fruit. Too bad, because the basic wine is nice
and crisp in pineapples. —S.H.
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Redtree 2009 Chardonnay (California); $8.
Rusack 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara
County); $23. Sweet in pineapple jam and
pear flavors and very oaky in caramel and vanilla toast,
this Chard is a little heavy handed. It would score
higher if it finished drier and crisper. —S.H.
Bargetto 2008 Regan Vineyards Reserve
Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains); $30.
There’s a good Chardonnay in here, crisply acidic and
dry, with rich pineapple, pear and green apple flavors.
But oak unfortunately swamps everything in a tsunami
of buttered toast and caramel. —S.H.
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Bargetto 2008 Chardonnay (Central
Coast); $15. Heavy handed in ripe fruit and
oak, with a soft, sweet mouthfeel. Will appeal to fans of
the tropical fruit and buttered toast style of Chardonnay. —S.H.
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Cinnabar 2009 Chardonnay (Monterey);
$20. With Chardonnays this thin and onedimensional, price is all important. This bottle is okay in
pineapple and buttered toast flavors, but it’s pretty simple. —S.H.
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Clos du Val 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros);
$25. Heavy and sweet, with apricot jam, tangerine, buttercream and caramel flavors. A sound
everyday Chardonnay for drinking now. Production was
10,000 cases. —S.H.
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flipflop 2009 Chardonnay (California); $7.
Hawkstone 2009 Barney’s Heritage Cuvee
Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $29. A decent
Chardonnay, but it’s pretty sweet and simple, with the
taste of sugared pineapple and orange tea. Oak and
alcohol of course make it more wine-like. —S.H.
Picket Fence 2009 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley); $15. Sweet and simple, with
buttered popcorn, orange and pineapple juice and
caramel flavors. —S.H.
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Rock Wall 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia
Highlands); $25. Sugary sweet and simple,
with dessert pastry flavors of pineapples, lemons and
baked pie crust. —S.H.
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Rock Wall 2009 Reserve Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley); $30. A sugary
Chardonnay whose main attraction is its honey flavor.
That gives a dessert wine sweetness to the pineapple
and lemon fruit. Ready now. —S.H.
84
Taj 2009 Cold Creek Ranch Chardonnay
(Los Carneros); $24. Strong and awkward in
winemaker interventions, this Chardonnay is dominated by buttered toast and popcorn flavors. Pineapple
jam shows up, accented with crisp acidity. —S.H.
84
Red Pony Ranch 2009 Chardonnay (Santa
Barbara County); $20. With loads of oak,
pineapple and orange honey flavors, this sweet
Chardonnay will appeal to those who like this heavy,
over-the-top style. —S.H.
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PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO
Carmel Road 2009 Pinot Gris (Monterey
County); $18. A lovely wine for those who like
a touch of sweetness. It’s rich and vibrant in honey,
green apple, golden apricot, peach and vanilla cream
flavors, accented with fine acidity. The blend contains
Chardonnay, Riesling,Gewürztraminer Marsanne,
Roussanne, Chenin Blanc and Viognier. —S.H.
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Laird 2009 Cold Creek Pinot Grigio (Los
Carneros); $18. This Pinot Grigio is crisply
acidic and dry, with exotic flavors of yellow apricots,
tangerines and spicy golden mangoes. It shows toasty,
caramelized notes. Refreshing now as a cocktail sipper.
—S.H.
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Red Pony Ranch 2009 Pinot Gris (Santa
Barbara County); $12. Good price for a white
wine this classy. At first it tastes a little sweet, with
jammy apricot and pineapple fruit flavors, but the acidity is so good, it leaves behind a clean, dry aftertaste.
Best Buy. —S.H.
87
85
flipflop 2010 Pinot Grigio (California); $7.
Luna 2008 Pinot Grigio (Napa Valley); $18.
Soft, dry and simple, with modest peach,
pineapple, lemon and vanilla flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
85
RIESLING
D.H. Gustafson 2010 Heritage Tree Vineyard Riesling (Dry Creek Valley); $20. An
interesting step toward persuading Americans to like
Riesling. That’s because it takes the variety’s citrus,
flower and petrol notes and finishes them slightly
sweet, like an orange and apricot fruit drink. Connoisseurs might wish it were drier, but it’s a really good
example of the off-dry style. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
89
Carmel Road 2009 Riesling (Monterey
County); $14. Made in an off-dry, almost sweet
style, this polished Riesling is marked first and foremost by ripe fruit. Green apples, tangerines, Key lime
pie and golden mangoes flood the mouth, made bright
and clean with citrusy acidity. The alcohol is a refreshingly low 13%. —S.H.
87
Terra Valentine 2009 Riesling (Spring
Mountain); $34. Starts with strong, assaultive
wildflower, dried apricot, butterscotch and sautéed
banana aromas, then turns dry and acidic in the mouth.
A difficult wine to like. —S.H.
84
SAUVIGNON BLANC
Navarro 2009 Cuvee 128 Sauvignon Blanc
(Mendocino); $18. Mendocino’s Navarro
Vineyards hits it out of the ballpark with this truly stellar Sauvignon Blanc, its 20th year making SB. Partially
barrel-fermented, this is an inviting wine of subtle jasmine aromas and touching minerality. An incredibly
well-balanced version of the varietal full of lemon
thyme and passion fruit. The acidity would cut nicely
through a potatoes gratin. —V.B.
93
Robert Mondavi 2008 I Block Fumé Blanc
(Oakville); $75. A brightly acidic, savory Sauvignon Blanc, rich and zesty in lemongrass, lime, gooseberry and white peach flavors, with a touch of white
pepper. The firm spine of minerals comes from the
vineyard. Very rich and appealingly dry, this wonderful
wine will gather momentum in the bottle over the next
decade. —S.H.
93
Clos Pegase 2009 Mitsuko’s Vineyard
Sauvignon Blanc (Carneros); $20. The best
Clos Pegase Sauvignon Blanc in years. Made with a little oak, just enough for creaminess, it’s marked by
vibrant acidity and complex, lovely flavors of lemongrass, Meyer lemon candy, vanilla, white pepper and
the distinct minerality that Carneros white wines often
display. Great price for a wine this sophisticated. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
91
Laird 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley);
$16. Dry and tart in acids, with lemon Lifesaver
candy, lemongrass, hay, white pepper and vanilla aromas and flavors. A clean, brisk Sauvignon Blanc to drink
90
Priest Ranch 2009 Somerston Sauvignon
Blanc (Napa Valley); $24. A simple, sound,
quaffing Sauvignon Blanc, with citrus and lemongrass
flavors. Finishes a little sweet. —S.H.
Donelan 2009 Venus Roussanne-Viognier
(Sonoma County); $45. Lots of crisp, jammy
Meyer lemon, lime, vanilla, honey and creamy flavors in
this Rhône-style blend. It’s a little too sweet and forward, especially for the price. —S.H.
as an appetizer. Good with Asian fare. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
83
87
Greenwood Ridge 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Anderson Valley); $18. A pretty, polished
and food-friendly Sauvignon Blanc, dry and crisp in
acidity. Shows rich, savory flavors of citrus fruits, vanilla
bean, toast and cinnamon spice. Good price for a fancy
wine like this. —S.H.
83
Somerston 2009 Priest Ranch Sauvignon
Blanc (Napa Valley); $24. Dull and thin, with
watered-down peach and citrus flavors. No much going
on in this Sauvignon Blanc. —S.H.
86
88
Indulge 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (North
Coast); $20. For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
87
Sleeper Cellars 2009 Sleeper Sauvignon
Blanc (Napa Valley); $17. Here’s a pleasant,
easy-to-drink Sauvignon Blanc. It shows lemon, lime
and tart green apple flavors, finished with plenty of
zesty acidity. —S.H.
87
V. Sattui 2009 Vittorio’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); $24. A fine Sauvignon Blanc, ripe, dry and pure in pineapple, lime green
apple and oak flavors. Feels a little sweet and simple in
the finish, but a fancy, crisp wine. —S.H.
87
Tuck Beckstoffer 2007 Vinifera Sauvignon
Blanc (Napa Valley); $35. Smells a little vegetal, and tastes simple and sweet, like sugared water,
with a squirt of citrus juice. —S.H.
82
VIOGNIER
Zotovich Cellars 2010 Estate Viognier (Sta.
Rita Hills); $28. A great Viognier, rich and
exotic, showing the powerful fruit you want from this
variety, in a balanced, elegant way. With a sweet, buttercream mouthfeel, it’s brisk in acidity, with powerful flavors of tangerines, pineapples, golden mango and exotic
spices, finished with smoky, sweet oak. —S.H.
92
Wrath 2008 Noble Wrath Late Harvest
Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey); $33. A fantastically sweet wine, with very high residual sugar.
Dazzles with honey, tangerine, apricot and vanilla flavors, but could use extra concentration to earn a higher
score. —S.H.
Buy.
Geyser Peak 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (California); $12. Dry and crisp in acidity, this
Sauvignon Blanc shows pineapple and lime flavors, with
a strong hit of gooseberry. May be too green for some,
but it gets those tastebuds whistling. —S.H.
Robert Hall 2009 Viognier (Paso Robles);
$20. This sweet Viognier tastes like a pineapple,
orange, apricot and peach fruit juice blend. The acidity
is balancing, but feels added. —S.H.
87
86
Lava Cap 2009 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (El
Dorado); $14. A dark-golden SB from the
Sierra Foothills with a nose full of honeysuckle and
mango, this wine’s got significant depth and concentration but also a healthy dose of alcohol (14.7%) and
is a tad sweet on the finish. A small amount of Sémillon is blended in for body and texture. Pair with
seafood. —V.B.
86
Terra Valentine 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley); $28. Creamy, oaky and buttery,
with a scour of acidity that feels out of place. The
underlying flavors are of apricots and oranges. Pretty
good, in a country style. —S.H.
86
Chatom Vineyards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Calaveras County); $16. A light golden SB
from Calaveras County with tons of tropical aromas,
predominantly pineapple, that follow into the taste,
which veers disproportionately sweet, with not enough
acidity to balance it out. —V.B.
84
Little Stone Vineyard 2009 Sauvignon
Blanc (Sonoma County); $11. Watery and a
little fizzy, with sugary flavors of oranges, lemons, limes
and honey. Will appeal to those who like a slightly sweet
wine. —S.H.
83
88
The White Knight 2008 Viognier (Clarksburg); $13. For full review see page 8. Best
86
84
Sobon Estate 2009 Viognier (Amador
County); $15. For full review see page 8.
Bargetto 2008 Gewürztraminer (Monterey
County); $15. A clean everyday Gewürztraminer, showing the variety’s spicy flavors, with hints
of pineapples and candied ginger. Tastes off-dry and
crisp in acidity. —S.H.
85
85
85
flipflop 2010 Moscato (California); $7. For
full review see page 10. Best Buy
Somerston 2009 Highflyer Grenache Blanc
(Napa Valley); $18. A good, everyday sipper,
soft and gentle, with appealing flavors of pineapples,
oranges, pears, cream and buttered toast. Could show
greater structure and acidity. —S.H.
SPARKLING WINES
OTHER WHITES
Dolce 2006 Late Harvest Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); $85. For full
review see page 2.
98
Macauley 2007 Special Selected Late Harvest Botrytis Sémillon (Alexander Valley);
96
Clos du Val 2009 Ariadne Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); $25. For full
review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.
91
Imagery 2009 White Burgundy (North
Coast); $29. A delightfully intriguing “White
Burgundy” blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot
Meunier, the last an unexpected surprise, the fruit
sourced from both the Sangiacomo and Yountmill vineyards. The wine is light and yet lush, with an inviting
nose of sweet apricot and apple pie, and a roundness to
the mouthfeel. This would pair nicely with a buttery halibut but also stand well on its own as an apéritif. —V.B.
90
89
Scott Cellars 2009 Cuvée Blanc Pinot
Blanc-Chardonnay (Santa Barbara
County); $21. This blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay brims with spicy tangerine, orange cream and
vanilla flavors. It’s very rich, yet dry, while brisk acidity
makes the finish clean. Not terribly complex, but an
agreeable wine. —S.H.
Incognito 2009 White Wine Blend (Lodi);
95
90
Domaine Carneros 2005 Le Rêve
(Carneros); $90. For full review see page 3.
Domaine Carneros 2007 Brut (Carneros);
Choice.
Domaine Carneros NV Cuvee de la Pompadour (Carneros); $36. A vibrant, useful
rosé sparkling wine, full-bodied and rich. Crisp acidity
brightens flamboyant flavors of raspberries, cherries,
yeast and vanilla. Drink this dry bubbly now. —S.H.
88
ROSÉ WINES
Midsummer Cellars 2010 Button and
Turkovich Vineyard Rosé (Yolo County);
$18. A gorgeously salmon-colored rosé made predominantly from Grenache (62%) co-fermented dry with
Viognier (58%) out of Yolo County. The wine has a delicately pretty nose of peach and a light-medium body
despite its 14.8% alcohol, though the finish falls off fast.
—V.B.
86
Loomis 2009 Air Rosé (Napa Valley); $18.
Bone dry and very acidic, almost sour, with
watery flavors of orange and lemon cough drop candy.
Gains a few points for elegance and cleanliness. —S.H.
84
Headbanger 2010 Rock N Rosé Zinfandel
(Sonoma Valley); $20. Sugary sweet and cloying in raspberry jelly flavor. More of a simple dessert
wine than a rosé. —S.H.
81
WineMag.com | 49
I
BUYING GUIDE
OREGON REDS
PINOT NOIR
Domaine Serene 2007 Evenstad Reserve
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $58. For full
review see page 3. Cellar Selection.
95
Archery Summit 2008 Archery Summit
Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $150.
Archery Summit’s top cuvée is young and brash, a jangle of brambly berries, threads of incense and chocolate, assertive acids and not quite integrated tannins. It
will require some patience, either in the cellar, or in
the decanter (hours!) but has an underlying plush texture and an exotic mix of spices that elevate the pretty
fruit to the next level. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
93
Lachini Vineyards 2007 Cuvée Giselle
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $65. Ron
Lachini cleverly assigns his wines to a carefully assembled team of winemakers; this one belongs to Laurent
Montalieu. It is the estate reserve, from low-yielding
vines. It is a particular success in this much-maligned
vintage. Intense and focused, it opens with pungent
aromas of forest and clove, tastes of concentrated cranberry and pomegranate fruit, and powers through into a
full-bodied, hefty, assertive finish. The tannins are substantial and the winemaking perfect. Cellar Selection.
—P.G.
93
Archery Summit 2008 Arcus Estate Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills); $100. For full review see
page 4. Cellar Selection.
92
Archery Summit 2008 Looney Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge); $85. The Looney
Vineyard bottling is the outlier in the Archery Summit
lineup—a different AVA and a non-estate vineyard. The
Ribbon Ridge AVA is a subset of a subset within the
Willamette Valley, and it may be the hidden gem for
producing great Pinot Noir. This wine is sensual, spirited, spicy and smooth. The cherry and raspberry fruit
is highlighted with bright acidity and whiffs of baking
spices. The new oak is gently applied and the use of
wild yeasts may have added some textural nuances also.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
92
Lachini Vineyards 2008 ‘S’ Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains); $45. Sineann’s Peter
Rosback is the winemaker for this particular Lachini
bottling, and has been through seven vintages. This is
the best yet, perhaps a function of a maturing vineyard
and a great year. Lush and textural, it dances among
flavors of pretty cherry/berry fruit, lightly whipped
chocolate and accents of sandalwood and spice. It gains
strength through the finish, lingering gracefully. —P.G.
92
Lachini Vineyards 2008 Lachini Family
Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains);
$45. Smooth as silk, all estate-grown, this classy Pinot
lists five Dijon clones, Pommard, Wadenswil and “Suitcase clone La Tache” on its tech sheet. Vibrant and
spicy, with cherries galore (sounds like a James Bond
heroine) and a round, full, lush and satisfying mouth-
91
feel. This is the one to drink now, while you cellar the
Cuvée Giselle. —P.G.
Archery Summit 2008 Red Hills Estate
Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $85. This is a fullon strawberry extravaganza, loaded with fresh fruit flavors, flecks of peppery spice and tannins just hinting at
bitterness. Aromas rush from the glass, a mélange of
pepper and sassafras, cherry cola and moist earth. The
mouthfeel is substantial, almost gritty—it has a rough
and tumble feeling to the finish. —P.G.
90
Archery Summit 2008 Premier Cuvée Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley); $48. A fine, elegant Pinot Noir, still in its infancy, with bright cranberry and raspberry fruit taking center stage. A
shimmering, vivid, youthful vitality elevates the fruit
flavors, with juicy acidity and restrained oak influence.
Though this is the least expensive wine in the Archery
Summit portfolio, it may surprise those who cellar it.
Some extra years in the bottle could bring out unsuspected depth and power. —P.G.
90
Domaine Serene 2008 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley); $42. Drinkable
now, but certainly cellar-worthy, the most widely available cuvée from Domaine Serene shows the strength of
the 2008 vintage. Fully ripe, assertive and full-bodied, it
brings scents of berry and herb into play, leading into a
thick and tannic wine with coiled power. Decant it, or
give it a few years in the cellar. —P.G.
90
Lange 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $32. Young and loaded
with primary fruit flavors—fresh-picked cherries right
off the tree, red delicious apples, just-made cranberry
sauce—this is lovely now but built for the long term.
The 13.6% alcohol listed is verified by the juicy acidity
and just a touch of herb in the back of the finish. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
90
Thistle 2008 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills);
$28. A firm, full, distinctive Pinot Noir, from
an organic vineyard in the Dundee Hills. Light fruit
flavors of berry play second fiddle to notes of earth and
clay, and drying tannins. The wine surprises with its
length; it extends into a finish that continues to hold
your attention and its focus, for a minute or more. —
P.G.
90
Archery Summit 2008 Renegade Ridge
Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $85. Front
loaded, this wine hits the palate with cola and herb,
black cherry and a suggestion of fresh truffles. The aromas lead, the flavors follow. Still quite young; it needs a
few more years in bottle to smooth out all the way
through the finish. —P.G.
89
Foris 2008 Maple Ranch Pinot Noir (Rogue
Valley); $30. One of the most remote and
unusual vineyard sites in Oregon, the Maple Ranch
provides ripe grapes at lower alcohol levels. The reward
can be found in the delicate but real accents—subtle
spices and surprising length. —P.G.
89
89
Torii Mor 2008 Chehalem Mountains
Select Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains);
$52. A strong core of pretty cranberry/cherry fruit
anchors this solidly made Pinot Noir. Balanced on a
cushion of fine-grained tannins, the wine persists in the
mouth with a clean, bracing finish. —P.G.
Kings Ridge 2009 Pinot Noir (Oregon);
$17. A widely available, screwcapped wine,
totally fruit-driven, with forward and immediately
accessible bright cherry candy flavors. Though it settles
into a one-dimensional structure, the fruit carries it
along nicely, and it has much the same appeal as a good
Beaujolais-Villages. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
88
Ponzi 2009 Tavola Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley); $25. Luisa Ponzi does such an excellent job with her top of the line Pinots that it is no surprise that this entry-level bottle really shines.
Immaculate fruit, polished tannins, a vivacious, fruitladen mouthfeel, all combine into a wine that has both
suppleness and varietal power. It does not have the
density of the pricier siblings, but it makes up for it
with food-friendly acidity. —P.G.
88
Torii Mor 2008 Deux Verres Reserve Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley); $45. Immediately
juicy, with a rough mix of flavors that run from pomegranate and sour wild berry to sweet tomato and herb.
But the nose is more complex and integrated, showing
some dusty barrel notes, and suggesting that with time
this will settle into a polished bottle. —P.G.
88
Torii Mor 2008 Eola-Amity Hills Select Pinot
Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $52. An elegant wine,
with moderate 13.6% alcohol, brambly berry fruit, and a
wash of finishing acidity. The restrained (30%) new
French oak can be sensed in the lightly chocolaty finish.
It’s nice to be able to call an Oregon Pinot charming, as
this one is, rather than volcanic. —P.G.
88
White Rose 2008 White Rose Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $78. The very limited bottling from the estate vineyard blends the flavors of the regular estate and Appellation Series
Pinots—but with more grip and presence. Strawberry
and cranberry fruit, a mineral underpinning, and dried
herb complete the picture. Good balance. —P.G.
88
Brandborg 2008 Ferris Wheel Pinot Noir
(Umpqua Valley); $NA. This is Pinot on the
edge of ripeness, with layers of herb and tomato leaf
threaded in with tart wild berry fruit. The tannins are a
little rough, but overall the balance is right and the wine
does not overreach. —P.G.
87
Del Rio Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir (Rogue
Valley); $28. With alcohol at just 12.7%, this is
one of several under-13% Pinots tasted recently that
seem to be setting a new trend in Oregon. The elegance is welcome, and gives the flighty grape some
room for nuance and even terroir. Light berry, watermelon, hints of earth and a fine balance make this an
excellent quaffer. —P.G.
87
Foris 2008 Pinot Noir (Oregon); $18. Light
and balanced, this Pinot Noir is from Illinois
Valley vineyards in southwest Oregon—quite different
from the Willamette Valley sites that are most often
87
associated with Oregon wines. It’s a delicate wine, with
13% alcohol, and a mouthfeel much like a simple Bourgogne. A fine choice for everyday drinking with poultry
dishes. —P.G.
White Rose 2008 Appellation Series Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills); $44. Juicy and acidic,
the Appellation Series Pinot Noir offers more than just
a hint of tomato leaf and pungent herb. Orange peel,
citrus and tangy berry fruit flavors highlight a wine of
medium concentration and length. —P.G.
87
Brandborg 2008 Bench Lands Pinot Noir
(Oregon); $22. Scents of smoke and ash dominate and obscure the fruit when first you open the bottle. Swirl it around and the light cherry and cranberry
fruit emerges, along with a lick of milk chocolate. But
the scent and flavor of smoke lingers, presumably from
barrel aging, and ultimately your opinion of the wine
may hinge on your personal preferences in that regard.
—P.G.
86
MacMurray Ranch 2008 Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $NA. Vinified in California with grapes purchased from Willamette Valley
sources, this is a pleasant, quaffable wine, with simple
red fruit and grippy acids. The flavors seem to get stuck
in the back of the throat, a bottleneck of acid and red
berry. Don’t look for the breadth or sweetness of California Pinot Noir here, but you will find texture and
nuance. —P.G.
86
Torii Mor 2008 Temperance Hill Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $60. This bottling is still a bit disjointed, the acids stick out and the
fruit seems confined to a tight corner. The raw materials are good enough—berries and watermelon, a whiff
of tomato, moderate tannins and more than a hint of
new oak. Give this one another year or two to smooth
out the wrinkles. —P.G.
86
Torii Mor 2008 Hawks View Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains); $60.
Well made in a lighter style, this offers strawberry and
raspberry fruit, tart acids, and a tight, somewhat tannic
exit. This winery has dramatically reduced the alcohol
levels of their wines over the past few years—by what
means we do not know—but the 13.1% listed here feels
a little thin. —P.G.
86
White Rose 2008 Estate Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $32. Soft, almost silky,
this pale and pretty wine shows light cherry and chocolate flavors. Hints of ash and cola seep into the finish,
along with herb and dried leaf. —P.G.
86
Amalie Robert 2008 Vintage Debut Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley); $30. Light and delicate, this “Vintage Debut” Pinot Noir skates along a
pretty thin edge. Light hints of strawberry and cherry
blossom lead into a pale wine with plenty of acidity. But
despite the acclaimed vintage, this is pretty thin stuff.
—P.G.
85
Purple Hands 2009 PH Pinot Noir (Dundee
Hills); $40. Light and murky, with a flavor mix
of tomato, vegetable juice, celery, barely ripe berries
85
and thin acids. That sounds worse than it is; taste this
alongside a Bourgogne from a big shipper in a cool vintage and you wouldn’t see much difference. The alcohol
here is listed at just 12.5%. It’s a serviceable everyday
wine, but not priced accordingly. —P.G.
3Fools 2008 Fools Gold Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $22. Very light, this is
scented with fresh bread dough and shows a cherry
soda pop flavor. Pretty, light and simple on entry, it feels
stripped of depth and disappears quickly in the mouth.
—P.G.
84
SYRAH
Riverhaven 2007 Riverrock Vineyards
Syrah (Walla Walla (OR)); $28. Excellent
varietal character, along with the lightly funky aromas
associated with the vineyard’s location in the Rocks (a
sub-section of the Walla Walla Valley AVA), elevate this
first release from Riverhaven Cellars. Along with blackberry fruit come cinnamon, mocha, coffee grounds and
clean earth, well integrated into a rich and textural wine
with good length and body. —P.G.
90
Amalie Robert 2008 Satisfaction Syrah
(Willamette Valley); $35. Impressively dark
and showing the meaty andpeppery character of the
grape, this Willamette Valley Syrah makes a good
argument for the viability of the grape up north. It
emphasizes the flavors that are lost in a hotter climate—pepper, herb, tart berry, and juicy acidity. With
alcohol at 12.3%, this sets a new standard for domestic,
Euro-style Syrah. —P.G.
88
CABERNET & BLENDS
Riverhaven 2007 Riverrock Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla (OR));
$34. This 100% estate-grown Cabernet carries some
of the identifying aromas of the Rocks, a part of Walla
Walla where vineyards are planted on a dry river bed.
Hints of earth, clay and chocolate make a lively introduction to a wine loaded with cherry and currant fruit
flavors. The wine spent 20 months in French oak, but
the barrel scents and flavors are handled lightly; the
fruit is the star of this show. A fine debut. —P.G.
91
Del Rio Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rogue Valley); $28. As is often the
case with Rogue Valley wines, the tannins are dominant and abrasive. But flavors are good, with a mix of
graphite, olive, iron filings and coffee grounds—more
than pure fruit. The tannins, acids and darker flavors
rule, creating a wine with rigid structure and a tight,
firm finish. —P.G.
87
Del Rio Vineyards 2008 Claret (Rogue Valley); $35. The Claret blend is 44% Merlot,
40% Cabernet and 16% Malbec—tannic and herbal,
almost like a Chilean red. A good wine to go with a
grilled steak, which can cut through the tannins with
some fat. Flavors are balanced, fruit is light and leafy,
and there is little or no new oak influence. —P.G.
86
Purple Hands 2009 Red (Oregon); $19. This
is essentially a southern Oregon blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah, with the unusual addition of
15% Dundee Hills Pinot Noir. It is difficult not to think
that the winery just had an extra few barrels of Pinot
around and decided to blend it in; the wine is a diffuse
mix of generic red fruits and sharp acids, that thins out
quickly in the finish. —P.G.
84
OTHER REDS
Night & Day 2008 Red (Rogue Valley); $14.
A kitchen sink sort of blend, this nonetheless
retains its focus and brings bright and spicy red fruits to
the front and center. It’s a yummy style, fresh and simply
delicious, in the manner of a good country wine. But it
goes farther than you expect, lingering and layering up
through a medium deep finish. Best Buy. —P.G.
89
Velocity 2007 Red Wine (Rogue Valley);
$24. With each successive vintage, winemaker
Gus Janeway has slowly but surely moved this wine to
100% Malbec. It’s a bold step, because pure varietal
wines do not have the advantage of filling in holes with
blending. But for those who want to glimpse the future
of Malbec in southern Oregon, this is a touch point.
Delicate, balanced, herbal, mixing a wash of light fruits
with nuances of herb, this very drinkable wine has
appealing delicacy and verve. —P.G.
89
Amalie Robert 2009 Pinot Meunier
(Willamette Valley); $26. This grape is most
commonly associated with Champagne, though David
Lett established it as a varietal wine at Eyrie decades
ago. From a young vineyard, this is deceptively light in
the glass, yet the wine has grip and the flavors have follow-through. Spice, pomegranate, wild berry—all in a
surprisingly lengthy wine whose flavors linger generously. —P.G.
88
Del Rio Vineyards 2008 Estate Reserve
Petite Syrah (Rogue Valley); $48. Petite
Syrah (as it is spelled here) is no longer an approved
label—Petite Sirah is correct—but this wine takes a good
run a capturing the power and pleasure of the grape.
Dark and tannic, it brings in plum and a hint of prune,
also chocolate and earth, with good balance. —P.G.
87
ROSÉ WINES
Lachini Vineyards 2009 Rosé of Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $14. A pretty pale
salmon color introduces a wine that looks and smells
like a Sancerre rosé. Delicate and yet fruity, it offers a
cavalcade of fresh flavors, strawberries and cherries,
almost frothy and tasting like the creamy center of a
bon bon. Best Buy. —P.G.
89
Velocity 2009 Malbec Rosé (Rogue Valley);
$16. Still quite fresh and loaded with spicy
strawberry and melon fruit, this is finished at just 12.5%
alcohol. Easy to take a sip and imagine you are in a café
on the Côte Azur, scarfing down some fresh calamari.
—P.G.
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WineMag.com | 51
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BUYING GUIDE
OREGON WHITES
PINOT GRIS
Lachini Vineyards 2009 Pinot Gris (Oregon); $22. Lovely scents suggest citrus rind,
lemon cake, honeycomb, candied orange and more.
Substantial fruit flavors run from lime on through ripe
pineapple, and the supporting structure offers a firm
foundation of acid and extract, with a pleasingly long
finish. —P.G.
91
90
89
Foris 2009 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley); $14.
For full review see page 8. Best Buy. —P.G.
Brandborg 2009 Pinot Gris (Umpqua Valley); $16. Ripe and fruity, the 2009 echoes the
flavors of the previous vintage, bringing in suggestions
of pear, pineapple, green banana and papaya. It’s all
wrapped in a bit of alcoholic heat, but not so much as
to detract from the rich fruit flavors. A solid base of
acid and skin tannins gives the wine the support it
needs. —P.G.
Melrose 2009 Pinot Gris (Umpqua Valley);
$16. Estate-grown and fruit-driven, this lush,
pear-flavored Pinot Gris is dotted with pretty cinnamon and allspice highlights. Forward and nicely balanced, it has the texture and weight to handle rich
sauces, much like a big Chardonnay, but without all
the new oak. —P.G.
88
Del Rio Vineyards 2009 Pinot Gris (Rogue
Valley); $16. Crisp and palate-cleansing, this
southern Oregon Pinot Gris shows a nice mix of green
berries, tree fruit and even some unripe banana. Good
concentration and length, with a finish that invites the
next sip immediately. —P.G.
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RIESLING
Viento 2009 Old Vines Dry Riesling
(Columbia Gorge (OR)); $20. From the oldest (28 years) Riesling planting in the Columbia Gorge,
this dense, dry, 12.2% alcohol wine has marvelous grip
and body. Bright fruit mixes apples, pears, white
peaches and citrus, the flavors beautifully melded. The
acidity brightens but does not turn sour, and the depth
is remarkable for a dry wine harvested at such low brix.
The more it breathes, the better it gets. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
92
Viento 2009 Pine Grove Vineyard Vintage
Select Riesling (Columbia Gorge (OR));
$20. This is declassified ice wine, picked frozen. It does
not have the depth of the other dessert wines from
Viento, but it is a remarkable effort, textural and delicate, with threads of straw, honey, cracker, candied
tropical fruits and more, but all in a light and delicate
style. This could easily become a wine that will amaze
people in a blind tasting given the price. —P.G.
91
Foris 2009 Riesling (Rogue Valley); $14.
This is a fruity, spicy style of Riesling. It rests
solidly in the midpalate, with apple, pear and white
87
peach fruit, plenty of natural acidity masking the residual sugar, and alcohol just over 12%. —P.G.
GEWÜRZTRAMINER
Brandborg 2009 Gewürztraminer
(Umpqua Valley); $16. Do you like lemon
drop cocktails? This is a lemon drop wine —so ripe and
round and sweetly lemony it could almost pass for
Limoncello. Despite the almost 14% alcohol, there is
some sweetness, as you might find in a late harvest
wine, albeit concealed by the acidity. Rose petals and
talcum powder flavors coalesce into a firm, full, fruity,
slightly sweet and also quite fragrant finish. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
90
Foris 2008 Gewürztraminer (Rogue Valley);
$12. Almost searingly tart, with a mix of orange
and lemon juice flavors. Some rose water and lychee
notes come in, but this is the rare Gewürztraminer that
could be a good fit for fresh oysters. Good length and
persistent, clean fruit flavors. Best Buy. —P.G.
88
CHARDONNAY
Foris 2009 Chardonnay (Oregon); $12. Barrel fermented in neutral oak, and not put
through malolactic, this offers in place of more obvious
barrel flavors some subtle notes of cinnamon and
brioche, custard and citrus rind. A fine effort. Best
Buy. —P.G.
89
Thistle 2009 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills);
$18. Organically grown and certified grapes
from the estate vineyard craft this tart and spicy
Chardonnay. A strong spice note—clove—sings out
around bright, crisp, green apple fruit flavors. Tangy
and tasty juice. —P.G.
88
ICE WINE
Viento 2009 Celilo Vineyard Gewürztraminer Ice Wine (Columbia Gorge (OR));
$45. Wow. This challenges the best of Canada for a
great Gewürztraminer ice wine. A thrilling mix of
flower, fruit, caramel, coffee (!) and honey, it is impeccably balanced and outrageously delicious. Just goes
and goes. —P.G.
94
Viento 2009 Underwood Mountain Vineyards Riesling-Gewürztraminer Ice Wine
(Columbia Gorge (OR)); $60. A field blend ice
wine—don’t see that very often—it’s full-bodied, almost
lush, and packed with mixed slightly candied fruits—
tropical, stone fruits and citrus. Concentrated and
poised, it balances on fresh acidity. Just a hint of plastic
in the back of the finish. —P.G.
91
OTHER WHITES
Francis Tannahill 2008 Passito (Oregon);
$28. A blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and
Viognier, this was made in the passito style—grapes
91
were dried to concentrate sugars, then pressed and fermented. The result is a terrific and unusual dessert
wine, with candied fruits mixing papaya, guava, banana,
Meyer lemon and more. The center is simply lush and
fruity; the finish tails off gently with a honeyed kiss.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
Foris 2009 Pinot Blanc (Rogue Valley); $14.
A pleasant white wine whose style falls somewhere between a crisp Chardonnay and a fruity Pinot
Gris. Pears and apples come to mind, with suggestions of
toast and caramel, perhaps from five months on the lees.
Approachable and perfect for a spring picnic. —P.G.
88
Wiliam Augustus 2009 Viognier-Marsanne
(Rogue Valley); $16. Barrel fermented and
left on the lees for 10 months, this fruity, fleshy, creamy
wine tastes of citrus (oranges) and tropical (banana)
fruits, and still shows the unresolved tannins from the
barrels. It’s slightly bitter as a result, and will profit from
additional bottle age or decanting. —P.G.
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I
BUYING GUIDE
Spirits
SOUTH AMERICAN SPIRITS
PISCO
Tacama Pisco Puro Quebranta (Peru;
Vidalco International, Dunbar, WV); 44%
abv, $45 for 500 ml. An aromatic pisco, with a luscious cherry-almond fragrance. At first, the spirit is
sweet and lightly fruity, then clove, ginger and black
pepper notes spark up in the middle, and it finishes
lightly floral and spicy. Expect a touch of alcohol burn,
since this is distilled to 88 proof, but overall a beautiful,
balanced and complex spirit.
96
hey’re both from South America. They’re
both usually clear spirits. And both cachaça
and pisco are enjoying increased attention
at high-end bars. But the comparisons end there,
as both spirits have unique characteristics.
Cachaça is made in Brazil, is distilled from
sugar cane juice. A rough-and-tumble cousin to
rum, cachaça has the same intrinsic sweetness and
often a good whiff of sugar in the scent. Brazil’s
national drink, the sweet-and-tart caipirinha,
topped with soda water, showcases cachaça’s best
qualities, yielding a refreshing, flavorful drink perfect for a summer afternoon. Cachaça also can be
subbed for white Tequila or white rum in cock-
tails, such as in the Mojito.
Pisco, meanwhile, hails from Peru or Chile. It’s
distilled from grapes, and then aged for a brief
time in vessels made of copper, glass, stainless steel
or clay. It often has a delicate, perfumy quality;
but like wine or grappa, the character changes
vastly depending on the grapes from which it is
made.
Although the delightfully frothy Pisco Sour or a
fruity Pisco Punch are the traditional ways to consume the spirit, some say the best way to enjoy
pisco is straight up in a wineglass, which enhances
its considerable aromatic qualities.
—KARA NEWMAN
CACHAÇA
This is a luscious aged cachaça, sweet and smooth, with
a lingering interplay of smoky and burnt toffee notes on
the finish.
Sagatiba Pura (Brazil; Sagatiba USA, Manhasset, NY); 40% abv, $25. Though it smells
like vanilla-mint Lifesavers, the flavor of this cachaça is
bright and lightly sweet, with some spicy notes on the
finish. Soft feel. Good value.
93
90
Leblon Cachaça (Brazil; Leblon USA, Manhasset, NY); 40% abv; $30. Inside the tall,
distinctive lime-green bottle, look for a faintly yellowtinged liquid with pungent, ripe tropical fruit aromas.
Though it’s a little intense straight up, with brown sugar
sweetness fading into a long fruity finish, it stands up
well in a long drink with soda, like a mojito.
91
T
94
Cabana Cachaça (Brazil; ABB Partners,
New York, NY); 40% abv, $35. Distinctive
vanilla scent with a light floral note. This cachaça has
strong, sweet flavor, a thick mouth-coating texture and a
custardy finish. Adding ice and soda lightens this spirit,
so it almost reads like gin & tonic. Excellent for caipirinhas.
92
Sagatiba Velha (Brazil; Sagatiba USA,
Costa Mesa, CA); 40% abv, $30. Two years
of barrel aging create a soft amber color and an oaky,
light caramel scent. This spirit benefits from a little
time in the glass to open up, but results in a rich,
brown-sugar flavor with a nutty, oaky finish.
92
Ypioca Cachaça Prata (Brazil; Preiss
Imports, San Diego, CA); 40% abv, $27/1
liter. This estate-produced cachaça has a candied-fruit
scent and a mellow, earthy flavor with a lingering sweet
vanilla note. Soft, smooth feel. Although it’s aged two
years, it’s still crystal clear.
92
Novo Fogo Gold Organic Cachaça ((Brazil;
Bom Dia Imports, Bellevue, WA); 40%
abv, $35. Certified organic and matured in repurposed
Bourbon casks for at least two years, this aged cachaça
has a tawny color and thick butterscotch aroma. Crème
brûlée and coconut flavors are chased by a lingering
caramel and oak finish.
91
Ypioca Cachaça Ouro (Brazil; Preiss
liter. Golden color from two years of barrel aging. The
mildly smoky scent opens up to deeper caramel notes.
91
Novo Fogo Organic Silver Cachaça (Brazil;
Bom Dia Imports, Bellevue, WA); 40%
abv; $30. The heavily fruity aroma is deceptive.
Instead, this unaged, certified organic cachaça is light,
tingly and spicy, with cinnamon, ginger and clove notes.
Try adding this spirit to a fruity cocktail.
90
Cachaça 21 (Brazil; Preiss Imports, San
Diego, CA); 40% abv, $18/1 liter. Clear.
Sweet scent, with a slight vegetal twang. Sweet flavor,
zesty, lightly smoky finish, well balanced with just the
right amount of alcohol bite.
88
Ypioca Cachaça Crystal (Brazil; Preiss
liter. Judging by the other expressions from this estateproduced brand, it improves the longer it’s aged. In this
case, the spirit is aged for one year, yielding a barely
perceptible straw color and an earthy, slightly vegetal,
slightly sweet scent. The flavor leads with a sweet sugar
cane note, but it also has a brisk smokiness, like mescal,
on the finish.
87
Boca Loca Cachaça (Brazil; Boca Loca
Cachaça Company, Denver, CO); 40% abv,
$20. Warm scent of vanilla sugar and light fruit. Of all
the cachaças tasted, this one has the sweetest, most pronounced vanilla flavor, which lingers on and on. Save
this one for cocktails with a sweeter profile, such as a
creamy Pina Colada variation.
86
Tacama Pisco Albilla (Peru; Vidalco International, Dunbar, WV); 44% abv, $22.
Look for floral, vanilla, and ripe apple notes in the fragrance. The flavor is reminiscent of banana cream pie,
with some coconut and faint floral notes on the finish.
Very smooth and warm.
95
Pisco Capel Reservado (Chile; Shaw-Ross
International Importers, Miramar, FL);
40% abv, $16. For full review please see page 8.
93
Tacama Pisco Quebranta (Peru; Vidalco
International, Dunbar, WV); 44% abv, $22
for 750 ml. Another aromatic pisco from Vina Tacama,
with a pretty fragrance reminiscent of pears, bananas,
and lily-of-the-valley. This is a full-flavored pisco with
banana and creamy vanilla notes. Recommended for
straight-up sipping.
Vinas de Oro Mosto Verde Quebranta
(Peru; ClearGrape LLC, San Francisco, CA);
40% abv, $46. This brazen hussy comes off as sweet
and delicate at first, with its fresh apple and sweet, oaky
aroma. But at heart, this spirit is earthy, fruity and bold,
finishing relatively dry, with teasing Sherry-like notes.
Try this one in a pisco sour.
Gran Sierpe Pisco (Peru; Artisan Brands,
Miami, FL); 42% abv, $20. “Gran sierpe”
means “great snake.” Though some might expect a raw,
pungent spirit inside to match the punchy serpentdesign bottle, instead the liquid inside is delicate, with
subtle rosewater and violet notes in the aroma and flavor. A faint black pepper and anise tingle on the finish
provides some backbone. Good value.
91
Pisco Portón Mosto Verde Pisco (Peru;
Pisco Portón, Manhasset, NY); 43% abv,
$45. Earthy, resiny scent with a hint of fruit in the
background. At first, the flavor is a little raw, but given
some time to aerate, it mellows to an earthy, tropical
fruit sweetness. Soft feel. A fine addition to a Pisco
Punch.
90
Tacama Pisco Acholado (Peru; Vidalco
International, Dunbar, WV); 44% abv, $22.
The sugary scent is reminiscent of grape soda, but the
flavor is bold and grappa-like, with sweet notes up front
and a pleasingly astringent finish.
90
D o n C e s a r P i s c o P u ro ( P e r u ; P re i s s
Imports, San Diego, CA); 40%, $30. A mild,
light, dry pisco, and a good candidate for pisco sours.
89
Vanilla sugar and herbaceous notes in the aroma. At
first, the flavor is sweet and light, but it also has some
peppery notes and a clean finish.
THE WINE ENTHUSIAST
SPIRITS BUYING GUIDE
Campo de Encanto Acholado (Peru; Fool’s
Gold Terroir, San Francisco, CA); 42.5%
abv, $35. The label has a fabulous turn-of-the-century
feel. The spirit clocks in at 85 proof, which is immediately apparent on the nose and the tongue. Given some
aeration and time, fruity/floral aromas and an elegant
floral finish emerge from beneath the booziness.
The Spirits Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed
evaluations and product ratings of a single reviewer, Spirits
Reviewer Kara Newman. Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of the product,
its alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by volume, the producer’s name, and the suggested U.S. retail
price. If the price cannot be confirmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottle unless otherwise indicated.
88
Pisco Capel Alto del Carmen (Chile; ShawRoss International, Miramar, FL); 40% abv,
$18. An unusual golden pisco, made from 100% Muscat grapes and aged six to eight months in oak casks.
The result is a deep butterscotch scent and sweet flavors reminiscent of bananas drizzled with maple syrup.
88
Don Cesar Pisco Especial (Peru; Preiss
Imports, San Diego, CA); 40% abv, $27.
clear. Grassy, sweet bell pepper scent, with a mild
vanilla note. This pisco has a sweet, round flavor with a
licorice finish, and a more pronounced alcohol bite
compared to the Pisco Puro.
87
Macchu Pisco (Peru; Macchu Pisco LLC,
Bethesda, MD); 40% abv, $27. A zesty pisco
with an unusual Tequila-like character, from the vegetal, citrusy scent to the sweet, peppery punch on the
palate. Light-bodied.
87
Vinas de Oro Mosto Verde Italia (Peru;
ClearGrape LLC, San Francisco, CA); 40%
abv, $46. This pisco is for those who love a floral profile. The scent is a virtual bouquet of candied violets,
with hints of fruit and spice. The flavor is warm and
fruity, but has a lingering floral finish that reads a bit
soapy.
87
Piscologia (Peru; Topa Spirits, San Diego,
CA); 40% abv, $30. For those who enjoy floral
piscos. The aroma features violet, rosewater and banana
notes. Inside the lovely art nouveau bottle, the spirit is
sweet and floral to the point of soapy, straight through
to the lingering finish.
86
Tastings are conducted individually in a controlled tasting
environment. Spirits are tasted alone; no formal reviews are
ever conducted in the presence of any producer or industry
representative. Samples are tasted blind in flights of no more
than six to eight products. Price is not a factor in the evaluation.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about each spirit’s special characteristics. The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the
following manner:
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Highly recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Spirits receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed.
Certain spirits are designated as Best Buys. Spirits earning
this designation offer a high level of quality in relation to
price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys.
SUBMITTING SPIRITS FOR REVIEW
Spirits should be submitted to the following reviewing locat i o n : K a r a N e w m a n c / o 3 6 We s t 2 0 t h S t , 3 r d
Floor, New York, NY, 10011. Inquiries should
be addressed to Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman at
[email protected]. There is no charge for submitting spirits, and Wine Enthusiast will make every effort
to sample all spirits submitted for review. There is, however,
no guarantee that all submissions will be tasted, or that
reviews will appear in the magazine. All submissions must be
accompanied by a submission form, which may be downloaded from our website. Please be sure to check the spirits
tasting schedule prior to submitting samples.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their
representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels,
which are reproduced and printed along
with tasting notes and scores. For information on
label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at
813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or email
[email protected].
WineMag.com | 55
I
BUYING GUIDE
Beer
THE WINE ENTHUSIAST
BEER BUYING GUIDE
GET YOUR FRUIT ON
’s all too easy to steer clear of fruit beers once
you’ve had one you didn’t fully enjoy.
Whether is was too fruity, too light, too tart or
too sweet, it can be somewhat tricky to find your
personal Goldilocks…the fruit beer that’s just
right for you.
But in these amazing times of quality, intriguing (read craft and high-end import) beers,
there are more fantastic options than ever for
the fruit beer lover of every type. Today, you can
select from a wide array of styles made with
many different kinds of fruit and using assorted
techniques.
The overall style is loosely defined; fruit beers
can be brewed using a variety of bases (though
typically an ale) with the addition of fruit or veggies. Fresh fruit may be used, and often provides
some of the best examples, though many breweries do use an extract, syrup or processed flavor
instead. Typically there is little to low hop pres-
ence, though there are some exceptions, and alcohol is usually low to moderate, averaging 5–7%.
Some of the best examples come from Belgium, where traditional Lambics are the kings of
fruit beers. Spontaneously fermented using wild
yeasts in the air and blended with fresh fruits
during secondary fermentation, these are some
seriously fruit-driven beers than exhibit the best
of the ingredient alongside tart wild yeast flavors.
The current trend is the use of fresh berries in
addition to barrel aging, the introduction of wild
yeasts further characteristics imparted by oak..
The complexity and food-pairing profiles of these
brews make them highly sought-after selections,
and perfect for converting fruit beer skeptics.
Many of these high-end, oak-aged selections
also come in 750-ml cork-and-crown closure bottles, making for a fantastic presentation at a special dinner or a stunning gift for beer-loving
friends. Prost!
—LAUREN BUZZEO
Odell Friek (Fruit Lambic; Odell Brewing
Company, CO); 6.5% abv, $18/750 ml. A
brilliant red mahogany color in the glass with a gorgeous garnet glimmer throughout. The nose is intense
and complex with notes of dried red cherries, cocoa
powder and a touch of tart bretty wildness. Medium
full in the mouth but with a lively twang of great acidity;
a perfect match for a fatty steak like a ribeye. Tart cherries, wild raspberries and a touch of peach dance on
the palate alongside accents of soft, spiced vanilla that
linger through the long finish. 630 cases produced.
91
The Lost Abbey Red Poppy Ale (Flanders
Red Ale; Port Brewing Company, CA);
5.0% abv, $15/ 375 ml. Dark mahogany brown with
a thick, cloudy appearance; you can see the carbonation
practically suspended in the glass. There’s also a good
amount of sediment. Deep and concentrated sour
cherry aromas dominate the bouquet, with accents of
bittersweet cocoa powder, sweet oak and a vinegary
acidic note. Medium carbonation and assertive acidity
make this a real mouth-puckerer, with strong vanillainfused tart cherry flavors. 800 cases produced.
93
Odell Avant Peche Imperial Porter (American Porter; Odell Brewing Co., CO); 9.5%
abv, $16/750 ml. The blend here is crazy: 45% ale
with peaches added, 19% ale aged in oak barrels and
36% ale aged in oak barrels with peaches. Pours an
opaque black color with a nice tan head. Aromas of
chocolate, sweet wood, vanilla, roasted malt and fresh
Colorado peaches fill the nose, while the mouth is full
with prominent hop notes that dance with the rich
peach purée flavors. A touch tart on the finish with the
wild yeasts making their appearance on the finish.
Goose Island Fleur Belgian Style Ale (Belgian-style Pale Ale; Goose Island Beer Co.,
IL); 7.0% abv, $8/22 oz. Though not a fruit beer, this
herbed pale ale was blended with hibiscus and hombucha tea. Flowery phenols start you off, supported by
notes of peach, tea leaves, soft sweet spice and bready
malt. The taste is more of the same but with a bit more
of an acidic kick, finishing with an oily citrus flavor. Red
fruit, caramel and a soft wild funk round out this complex but drinkable and well-balanced brew.
Samuel Adams Barrel Room Collection
American Kriek (American Wild Ale; The
Boston Beer Company, MA); 7.0% abv, $10/750
ml. Light amber in color with an apparent haze and a
slightly pink foamy head. The initial aromas of soft spicy
oak, sour cherry and earthy forest draw you in immediately, and transition through to the creamy mouth
alongside the vinous profile and cocoa powder flavors.
Superbly balanced with a delicately sour finish.
I
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Lindemans Pêche Lambic (Fruit Lambic;
Brouwerij Lindemans, Belgium); 3.0% abv,
$11/750 ml. Spontaneously fermented with peaches
added during the secondary fermentation, this is a gorgeous traditional Belgian fruit lambic that’s sure to
tickle the tongues of fruit beer lovers. It’s everything
you think it will be: a crisp but somewhat sour wild lambic base loaded with fresh, pressed peach juice aromas
and flavors. Vibrant and brisk in the mouth with a fruity
sweetness that doesn’t come off as cloying, finishing
dry.
91
The Beer Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed
evaluations and product ratings of a single reviewer, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo. Every tasting note is
accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of
the product, beer style, alcoholic strength expressed as
percent alcohol by volume, producer’s name, and the suggested/average U.S. retail price. If price cannot be confirmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are
for the bottle size or packaging indicated.
Formal evaluation sessions occur in a professional tasting
room. Beers are tasted alone; no formal reviews are ever
conducted in the presence of any producer or industry
representative. Samples are tasted blind in flights of no
more than six products; the category being reviewed may
or may not be divulged. Price is not a factor in the evaluation.
ABOUT THE SCORES
The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the
following manner:
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Highly recommended.
Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Certain beers are designated as Best Buys. Beers
earning this designation offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys. Cellar Selections are
beers that would be good candidates for cellaring.
SUBMITTING BEERS FOR REVIEW
Beers should be submitted to Wine Enthusiast’s headquarters at 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY
10549. Inquiries and submissions should be addressed to
Lauren Buzzeo at [email protected]. There is
no charge for submitting beers, and Wine Enthusiast
will make every effort to sample all beers submitted for
review. There is, however, no guarantee that all submissions will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All submissions must be accompanied by a
submission form, which may be downloaded from our
website.
LABELS
92
91
90
Samuel Smith’s Organic Raspberry Ale
(Fruit Beer; Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels,
which are reproduced and printed along
with tasting notes and scores. For information on label
purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone
at 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or e-mail
[email protected].
(Tadcaster), England); 5.1% abv, $6/550 ml. Brilliant bright red in color with a pink head and outrageously assertive raspberry sweet-tart aromas flooding
the nose. Rich and flavorful with more intense raspberry flavor, but there’s a malt backbone supporting the
fruit and a good deal of carbonation alongside the
inherent tartness to keep things vibrant in the mouth.
ter to it, giving the mouthfeel a thicker, more viscous
feel with less briskness than the other offerings in their
lineup.
Unibroue Éphémère Pomme (Fruit Beer;
Unibroue, Canada); 5.5% abv, $8/750 ml.
This white ale brewed with apple must is a beautiful
pale golden color with a slightly hazy appearance.
Vibrant notes of green apple burst forth on the pour,
with a second nosing offering notes of pineapple, cereal
with peaches, juicy orange and subtle sweet spice. Ripe
apple and Curaçao orange shine in the creamy mouth,
while the finish is more the essence of lightly baked
apples with sweet spice and coriander.
90
Harpoon UFO Raspberry Hefeweizen
(Fruit Beer; Harpoon Brewing, MA & VT);
5.1% abv, $9/12 oz 6 pack. Pours a cloudy soft
pinky-peach hue. Aromas of yeast, sweet citrus and
fresh raspberry juice appear in the bouquet. The round,
medium-weight mouth shows a nice bready note lifted
by accents of tart citrus. Crisp but doughy and not overpowered by the fruit flavor; easy to drink and a great
pairing for summer salads (or a base for a dressing).
89
Samuel Adams Brewmaster’s Collection
Blackberry Witbier (Fruit Beer; The Boston
Beer Company, MA); 5.5% abv, $8/12 oz 6 pack.
Crisp and lively with moderate carbonation and a light
mouthfeel. The blackberry aromas and flavors are
there, but they’re not overwhelming or artificial. Freshpressed blackberry flavors mix with soft notes of wheat
and sweet malt. Clean, refreshing and very easy to
drink.
89
Unibroue Éphémère Cassis (Fruit Beer;
Unibroue, Canada); 5.5% abv, $8/750 ml.
An orangey-amber hue in the glass with a soft pink
frothy head. Smells fresh and inviting with aromas of
crushed blackberries mixed with wheat beer yeast and
soft spice. Strong carbonation and juicy cassis flavors
keep things lively in the mouth, which is overall lightweight but somewhat creamy. The fruit flavors dissipate slowly through the finish.
89
Samuel Adams Cherry Wheat (Fruit Beer;
The Boston Beer Company, MA); 5.3%
abv, $8/12 oz 6 pack. Though fruit beers are a polarizing style, this is a definite love it or hate it beer. If you
like assertive cherry candy flavors, then you’ll be all
good. If you’re not a huge fan of the fruit, especially
candies with this flavor, then take a pass. It’s cherrydriven for sure, but more of the candied Jolly Rancher
and fruit-roll up type of flavor than fresh. Otherwise, it’s
clean, light and easy to drink.
88
Samuel Smith’s Organic Strawberry Ale
(Fruit Beer; Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery
(Tadcaster), England); 5.1% abv, $6/550 ml.
Unlike the raspberry organic ale, this brew is light
golden in color with a soft pink hue and moderate aromas of sweet strawberry jam. The mouth shows more
syrupy strawberry flavor with a bit of medicinal charac-
88
WineMag.com | 57

92 Baldacci 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

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