The Techtextil and Texprocess Magazine

4 – 7. 5. 2015, Frankfurt am Main
Nature meets lightweight
textile structures
Artificial womb for
premature babies
Yarns with nanoparticles
Revolution and perfection:
CAD/CAM and much more
The Techtextil and
Texprocess Magazine
Dear Industry Colleague,
The textile and clothing industry is one of the most innovative technology pacesetters in the global economy. The rate of change is
breathtaking and constantly accelerating. The amazing material properties and range of functions leave even the professionals speechless.
Fully automated processes and sustainable solutions dominate the processing of textile and flexible materials. The innovative Techtextil and
Texprocess fairs present the complete textile value creation chain – from preparatory processes to finishing technologies. Here you’ll be among
the very first to discover important new products. Use the globally unrivalled range of ideas and resulting synergies to further your success.
The two fairs together are much more than just the sum of their parts. They are the largest and most important thinktank for interdisciplinary
communication and collaboration within the industry. Be inspired by the creative working atmosphere, forge valuable contacts for your projects
and talk to top experts about the issues that affect you. This magazine gives you a taste of the innovative capacity of Techtextil and Texprocess.
Make sure you don’t miss out on four fascinating and exciting days in Frankfurt am Main.
I look forward to your visit!
Michael Jänecke, Director Brand Management Technical Textiles & Textile Processing
EXPERIEN
Elegant solution. Simple spacer structure with elastic effect. Copyright: ITV
Lightweight textile structures: On the trail of the sea urchin.
A future theme that affects us all: electromobility. The challenge is to significantly reduce vehicle weight. ITV Denkendorf seeks inspiration from nature.
The reorientation of mobility concepts is in full swing. The driving factors for this are
the increasing scarcity of resources and the necessary reduction of the CO2 balance.
The materials used in vehicle construction must become lighter, while still meeting
stringent requirements in terms of strength and rigidity. There is an increased focus
on fibre-reinforced mesh structures because their material properties increase the
design flexibility for curved component geometries.
In developing lightweight sandwich and hollow structures the scientists at ITV
Denkendorf have taken the sand dollar as their model. This species of sea urchin has
a curved external shell with thin internal reinforcements, which makes it very light and
pressure-resistant. With the new processes, double-curved mesh structures can be
realised as well as plane-parallel spacer fabrics. The special manufacturing process
allows for freely designable curved surfaces on both surface layers of the material.
This once more shows that nature is an inexhaustible source of ideas.
Revolution for premature babies.
An impressive world first with high-tech textiles: An artificial uterus supports the development of
premature babies. Incubators are essential for the survival of premature babies. However, these machines
do not support the sensory and motor development of the child. This looks set to change now. An artificial
uterus in the incubator gives acoustic stimuli such as a heartbeat and the mother’s voice as well as mechanical sensations that imitate the gentle movements of the womb. In addition, mechanical stimuli are
generated without electrical circuitry and therefore without damaging radiation.
Medical products have to satisfy stringent standards. The conditions of the womb must be realistically imitated with the textile material characteristics of e.g. feel, elasticity and resistance. Here the choice of fibre
material and the type of fibre manufacturing process must be coordinated.
The ARTUS machine, planned by project leader Professor Dirk Hofer (Hohenstein), Beluga-Tauchsport
GmbH (Scheessel), Global Safety Textiles (Maulburg) and the M. Zellner company (Michelau), is now in the
prototype stage. Further functional optimisations and adaptations to routine clinical practice are planned
before the market launch. Professor Höfer is confident that the artificial uterus will significantly enhance the
clinical condition of infants.
The mother’s heartbeat gives a feeling of safety and security.
ARTUS transmits the resonance characteristics of the uterus.
2
NCE
Textile construction: fibre grid instead of steel.
Normally steel rods are used to reinforce concrete. They give stability
and compensate for the lack of tensile strength of concrete. With textilereinforced concrete, 2D and 3D textile meshes of glass or carbon fibres cured
in plastic act as reinforcers. The benefits are enormous. Because steel rusts, it
has to be protected with a shell consisting of tonnes of concrete. By contrast,
textile-reinforced concrete is corrosion-resistant, i.e. it is less susceptible to
rust and cracks caused by salt, water or other environmental influences. This
makes it more durable and therefore saves costs in terms of maintenance and
refurbishment. Furthermore, because textile reinforcement is much more stable
than steel, less protective concrete is needed, which results in massive reductions in material and resource consumption and in CO2 emissions. Because of
the better material properties (low thickness / high strength) more flexible and
more delicate design methods are feasible, e.g. severely angled shell structures.
The symbiosis of carbon and concrete is leading to a new form of structural
engineering and building, according to the Director of the Dresden Technical
University’s Institute for Textile Machinery, Professor Chokri Cherif: “In future,
concrete structures will be characterised by delicacy, lightness and aesthetic
quality.” The textile construction revolution is on the march.
In the same way as textile concrete, this pavilion also uses carbon and glass fibre.
Copyright: Uni Stuttgart/ILEK
“In today’s manufacturing industry we are constantly facing new challenges, for instance from
ever more rapid processing and increased flexibility. In fashion this is particularly the case. The
same applies for functional and protective clothing. This makes the Texprocess and Techtextil
innovation duo essential for suppliers and processors of technical textiles.”
Elgar Straub, CEO, VDMA Garment and Leather Technology
Carbon tiles: Much more
than just a design fad.
They illuminate, heat and offer a touch function. Carbon hightech
tiles from the ITA Institute for Textile Technology in Aachen.
These tiles consist of 95% recycled fibres from the automotive industry and are a
completely innovative design material. Carbon tiles are ideal for exterior or interior
applications.
The light-conducting fibres on the surface of the tiles provide spots of light. They can
be used in car interiors as a decorative strip, in furniture as a decorative element and
in architecture as a floor covering or stairway with emergency lighting. In addition to
the light function, touch and heat functions can also be integrated into these patented
tiles. For instance, a carbon tile strip inside the car can give a colour-coded heat signal
and also heat the interior.
Further plus points for designers and product developers are that the wood-look material is durable, chemically resistant and extremely robust.
Illumination and heat. Textile innovation for architecture, automotive industry and interior design.
Copyright: ITA Aachen
3
INFORMA
Functional apparel is constantly
redefining its boundaries.
Modern functional apparel is becoming increasingly sophisticated, which
means that research and development need to keep pace. In the face of stringent requirements, personal protective equipment is managing to lose weight
while improving its performance, fit and wearer acceptance. Carbon-based
helmets and gloves are becoming champions of the lightweight division. Fashion
aspects are also incorporated. The cutting techniques and ergonomics have been
optimised and the range of sizes has increased.
New joining techniques, e.g. using laser technology, successfully combine
innovative laminates and other textile materials with high functionality. Thanks
to the e-broidery® process for electronically conductive yarns, LEDs can now
be incorporated reproducibly on textiles that are washable, robust and serve as
sensors or heating/lighting elements. The TITV Greiz chrome jet process enables
the incorporation of conductive functional layers, thus creating structures that
work as sensors, bus tracks and heating tracks without the textile properties of
the fabric being lost.
The quantity and quality of workwear and protective clothing will therefore continue to increase thanks to new materials and processing technologies.
Top picture: Tencil fibre from Lenzing is also used for functional clothing. Copyright: Lenzing
Bottom picture: When repairing welding, heat-protection and flame-protection clothing, rental flame-retardant
zips are required. Copyright: Coats
The European outdoor market is booming. New materials and processing
methods are setting the standards of tomorrow. Outdoor clothing must be
comfortable and light. The use of down is on the decrease these days as people
turn away from animal products. In its place new materials are coming to the
fore. Functional manufacturers such as Outlast, Sympatex and ContiTech have
developed synthetic alternatives that replicate the look of down. In other material
mixes PCM technology is providing heat and moisture regulation for synthetic
components. Particularly in the past two years there has been intensive design
and engineering work at all levels. Today, seam welding is possible using hot
air, ultrasound or laser technology. The aim of all these efforts is to achieve high
functionality, suitability for everyday use and environmental sustainability in a
fashionable product.
A new focus is on intelligent structures using wool or high-tech materials in a
jeans style. The result is a street-wise look combined with sporty functions, as
showcased by Schoeller from Switzerland. Footwear too has developed into masterpieces of technology in terms of their biodynamic and physiological functions
thanks to the use of innovative materials. The world market leader Nike has even
chosen to develop its own groundbreaking sole.
Background picture: Textiles for outdoor and filtration purposes are adapted by means of additional
processing, e.g. water-resistant finish.
Copyright: Filzfabrik Fulda
4
Outdoor clothing:
Ready for the future.
ATION
With inbuilt extras: Sewing threads for technical textiles.
Sewing threads must be elastic, break-resistant – and much more. With
technical textiles there are lots of other parameters that need to be considered,
e.g. conductivity, abrasion and workability in sewing machines, as well
as resistance to environmental influences such as weather, UV light, cold/heat,
salt water and chemicals.
Additional benefits can also be implemented in sewing yarn, e.g. thermoplastic
yarn coatings for seam strength, anti-counterfeiting fibres, filaments and pigments and nanoparticles that can easily be identified by microscope, UV light or
laser. These are important elements for the traceability of the production chain.
In addition, signal and contrast colours can reinforce the functionality of the textile pattern. Besides the stability and visibility of the colour, it is also relevant how
the dyes are incorporated into the yarn – either permanently in the spinning mass
of the individual fibres or yarn or non-permanently as a coating for the fibres
and yarns. There are yarns that light up under UV light, glow in the dark or show
classic signal colours.
The perfect yarn for every product.
Pictured: Yarns for airbag manufacturing from Zwicky Gütermann. Copyright: Zwicky-Gütermann
“At Techtextil you can directly feel the progress in technical textiles. Experience has shown that developments in this sector affect the world of fashion. I also recommend that visitors take time to look
around Texprocess where they can discover new technology trends. In addition to innovations in the
areas of design, cutting room, CAD/CAM and quality control, I’m also keen to see new joining and adhesive technologies, sustainable dyeing technologies and process digitalisation.”
Francesco Marchi, General Director Euratex
Sewing technical textiles – a real
challenge.
Specific requirements demand the experience and know-how of sewing machine
manufacturers. How are technical textiles joined together and to other substrates?
In addition to adhesive and welding technologies, sewing is also extremely important.
However, a number of questions arise here, such as whether the seam and yarn should
be elastic, how long the seam should be, whether there should be predetermined breaking points and whether the seam tracking should be reproducible. Fixing tapes, programmable automatic sewing machines and automatic bartackers offer contemporary
solutions.
Sewing machine manufacturers have a vast store of know-how that can be used in the
creation of many technical textiles. Almost all of them, including Dürkopp Adler and
Pfaff Industrial, have proven machinery product lines aimed at heavy and stiff or light
and highly flexible textiles. The number of stitches per minute plays only a minor role
here. What is much more important is the robustness of the machine, the reproducibility
of the seams and the programming of defined seam parameters. The optimal sewing parameters are determined during a test phase. These include the specific shape of needle,
its tip, the laying of the thread to the eye as well as its material and surface treatment.
The characteristics of the foot and the question of top or bottom feed of the material can
normally only be clarified by means of empirical tests. They are all, however, important
parameters in the processing of technical textiles.
The labelling system from Fischer Automation prints, cuts, stores and
sews work clothing labels directly at the workplace in one process.
Copyright: Fischer Automation
5
CAD/CAM gets turbocharged.
Competitive advantage and efficiency enhancement tool. The importance of digital support cannot be
overstated. CAD/CAM manufacturers have discovered the growth market of technical textiles and apparel textiles.
The result is high-tech solutions in all areas. The product spectrum of cutting systems is extensive. CNC singleply and low-ply cutters with new tools and automated systems are able to machine technical textiles without
problem.
What’s more, modern 3D cutters can quickly create high-quality prototypes and mini-series – a clear competitive
advantage in the research-intensive environment of the technical textiles industry. The seamless integration of
hardware and software is also extremely significant. Classic individual components are becoming less important
whereas complete applications with full integration capability in the production environment are increasing in
significance. This is linked with the introduction of modern product lifecycle management systems that check,
monitor and optimise the entire value creation process from the concept through to series production or individual order.
Top: Laser cutting of textiles on the eurolaser conveyor system. Copyright: eurolaser
Bottom: New – Gerber Paragon® cutting system. Intelligent realtime process management
ensures optimal balance between cutting speed and quality without human intervention
Copyright: Gerber Technologies
Protecting the environment and
reducing costs with Green Fashion.
The demands on modern production systems are changing – to the benefit of all concerned. In the past the decisive
criterion was the maximum number of stitches per minute. Then the focus switched for a long time to flexible production
with rapid setup, reproducible process parameters and the introduction of intuitive design programs. Currently and for the
foreseeable future the emphasis is towards resource utilisation and sustainable processes. According to a recent study
conducted by the VDMA, between 2004 and 2014 modern spinning, knitting and finishing machines have enabled savings
of 28% in terms of energy and 33% in terms of water consumption in the production of a tee shirt.
Manufacturers have achieved major successes in textile production. In downstream manufacturing processes, the starting
points are more diverse and smaller in scale. Detailed examination is required. Cutting systems, fixing presses, pressing
units and sewing machines are used that often require considerable volumes of steam, heat, vacuum and compressed air.
The resulting costs, e.g. personnel costs, are part of the overall production costs. Here there are enormous savings potentials that many manufacturers are already effectively exploiting.
Global growth for
textile filters.
The success of textile fabrics is the result of many factors. In addition to their
porosity and their resistance to thermal, chemical and mechanical influences,
textile materials are also flexible and can be cut to size. This increases their benefit
to the filtration business as they can be made into all sorts of shapes and sizes.
Specialist machines are required, though, as aramid and similar difficult fibres are
not easy to cut with a pair of scissors. Because of their high abrasion resistance,
glass fibre fabrics also cannot be sewn without additional processing. Furthermore,
the processing of nonwovens and fabrics made from thermoplastic fibre materials
calls upon the ingenuity of mechanical engineers. With welding technology they
have managed to solve the constant problems of cutting, matching and joining
lightweight polypropylene, polyamid and polyester materials. According to Pfaff
Industrial, welding is the ideal process to use when you want to protect the surface
from damage from needles, threads or adhesives.
6
Because of their thermoplastic properties various synthetic fibres are outstandingly
suitable for pleating, e.g. to increase the surface area of a filter medium.
Copyright: Sandler AG, Schwarzenbach/Saale
New topic of discussion
for the entire sector:
Innovative Apparel Show.
Bursting with ideas. Techtextil and Texprocess present innovative apparel
textiles and processing technologies live (Foyer of Halls 5.1/6.1). This show
is an exclusive premiere and showcase of technological highlights in the areas
of textile design, function and processing. The joint centrepiece of the two trade
fairs is the work of creative individuals from four universities and fashion colleges. The outstanding event is being choreographed and presented by internationally renowned show producer Kevin Oakes from South Africa.
Show times in the Foyer of Halls 5.1/6.1:
4 May 2015 at 15.00
5 and 6 May 2015 at 11.00 and 15.00
7 May 2015 at 11.00
During the fair all designs from the Innovative Apparel Show will be on
display in a dedicated area in the Foyer of Halls 5.1/6.1. Which project has
really grabbed your interest? Find out about the projects on display, the
materials used and the production techniques – and cast your vote for the
Audience Award.
Visit the Innovative Apparel Show special area in Hall 6.1, Stand D10.
Here further designs from three themed areas are also on show: “High-tech
fashion”, “Creative processing” and “Functional materials”. The special area
is located right next to leading manufacturers of functional apparel textiles
at Techtextil.
Talks, discussions and inspiring ideas.
The Shows & Events at Techtextil and Texprocess place important industry
themes under the microscope. What does the Smart Factory mean in practice?
Is nanoparticle synthesis the only solution for self-cleaning textiles? These are just
two of the many questions currently facing the industry. The answers can be decisive
for gaining a competitive edge, for opening up new markets or for developing futureoriented technologies. Current issues are identified and explored in numerous events,
including the Techtextil Symposium and the free Texprocess Forum.
With an array of expert round tables, panel discussions, lectures and innovation
competitions, Frankfurt is at the centre of international and interdisciplinary knowledge transfer from 4 to 7 May 2015. It’s a must-visit event for industry professionals.
Experience at first-hand the benchmarks of tomorrow.
Discover the latest developments and all programme items online at:
www.techtextil.com and www.texprocess.com
7
4 – 7. 5. 2015, Frankfurt am Main
Opening hours:
Admission prices
Catalogue
4 – 6. 5. 2015, 9:00 – 18:00
7. 5. 2015, 9:00 – 17:00
Day ticket: Advance sales € 23.00, Box Office € 33.00
Season ticket: Advance sales € 40.00, Box Office € 60.00
Day ticket (concessions): € 20.00
Internet
Or order your ticket beforehand online and save 30 %.
www.techtextil.com
Your admission ticket entitles you to visit both parallel
events.
The joint Techtextil and Texprocess Catalogue is
available approx. two weeks before the start of the
show at a price of € 21.00 (plus postage and packing).
It can be ordered from the Messe Frankfurt Visitor
Service on
Tel. +49 69 75 75-20 04
Fax +49 69 75 75-12 36 or
E-mail: [email protected]
www.texprocess.com
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Title picture: Cutter machine and fabric. Copyright machine: Zünd Systemtechnik AG
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