Raising Bearded Dragons

Transcription

Copyright © 2014 by Raising Bearded Dragons. All rights reserved.
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RAISING BEARDED DRAGONS
Introduction
INTRODUCTION
The Bearded Dragon is fast becoming one of the most popular reptiles kept as pets
in the United States and Australia (Barten & Fleming, 2014; Cannon, 2003; Grenard,
2008; Stahl, 2003). Some debate that they have overtaken the Green Iguana in
terms of popularity. Of the 8 species of Bearded Dragons, the pogona vitticeps is the
most common bearded dragon either kept as a pet or found in Australia – its native
habitat (Grenard, 2008).
Why Bearded Dragons Make Good Pets
Apart from being liked for their relatively similar appearance to dinosaurs (Grenard,
2008; Tosney), bearded dragons make great pets for the following reasons:
1. They are a good beginner reptile and make great animals for herpetoculturists to
learn their skills (Cannon, 2003).
2. They have a laid-back nature (Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009; Tosney) (like the
Aussies!)
3. They can be approached, picked up and perched on a human’s hand / arm for
extended periods of time (Grenard, 2008).
4. They don’t get very large (Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009).
5. They are easy to feed because they are not picky eaters. They eat both plant and
animal / insect matter (Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009).
6. They are seemingly “naturally tame”, being safer for older children (over 12).
They don’t bite, scratch, fight or try to whip the handler with their tail when they
are handled gently (Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009).
7. They have appealing and amusing behaviours like arm-waving (Grenard, 2008;
Nelson, 2009; Tosney).
8. They are a daytime lizard, therefore making feeding, observing and interacting
with them easier as their waking hours are similar to those of the owner (Grenard,
2008).
9. They are captive-bred and are not taken from the wild (not now, anyway!)
(Grenard, 2008)
10. They are relatively easy to breed (Grenard, 2008).
11. They are curious and sociable (Nelson, 2009; Tosney).
© Copyright 2014 – All Rights Reserved | Raising Bearded Dragons – raisingbeardeddragons.com
History and Natural Habitat
While reptiles are deemed to be low maintenance pets, they still require attention
every day to thrive in captivity (Reptilian Needs Can Be Complicated Part 2: Reptile
Husbandry, 2013). One of the major problems facing herpetoculturists is that there is
no standard of care when it comes to their husbandry (Barten & Fleming, 2014).
Much advice is based on experience rather than scientific research. Information
regarding husbandry is disseminated via several avenues and misinformation is rife
(Barten & Fleming, 2014; Nevarez, 2009). This results in conflicting information
which frustrates herpetoculturists. It is therefore highly advised to read and research
voraciously.
The purpose of this care sheet is to bring together science and experience in the
care of the Bearded Dragon. While we aim to provide a balanced approach, please
use critical thinking and perform your own research for the needs of your Bearded
Dragon as each is unique, just as humans are all unique.
HISTORY AND NATURAL HABITAT
The Bearded Dragon gets its name from its ability to “puff out” its highly distensible
throat (the gular pouch) as a defense mechanism to scare off predators (Grenard,
2008; Tosney).
Bearded Dragons have not been bred in captivity long enough to evolve and adapt to
their new habitats across the globe (Cannon, 2003). As such, it is of great
importance to understand their history and natural habitat so that we recreate those
conditions in captivity for their well-being and health (Cannon, 2003; Doneley, 2006;
Grenard, 2008). It is also important to determine the species as different
environments have different temperatures and humidity (Doneley, 2006).
The first Bearded Dragon was discovered in Australia in 1829. This species was the
Eastern Bearded Dragon (Pogona Barbata formerly known as Amphibolurus
Barbata). However, it is the Inland or Central Bearded Dragon (Pogona Vitticeps)
which was discovered in 1926 which is the most common Bearded Dragon that is
found in its natural habitats in Australia and also in the pet trade (Grenard, 2008;
Tosney). The Inland Bearded Dragon can be found in a wide arrange of habitats
from dry forests and scrublands to the sandy deserts (Doneley, 2006; Grenard,
2008).
Bearded Dragon Husbandry
Generally, Bearded Dragons live in arid, semi-desert regions and arid woodlands.
Daytime temperatures are hot and night get a lot cooler (Doneley, 2006; Tosney).
Food source is scarce and Bearded Dragons in the wild are not fussy eaters,
foraging for any food they can find (Grenard, 2008). They eat plats, flowers and
insects. They get most of their water from the food they eat (Tosney), from rainfall
and dew.
Bearded Dragons are considered semi-arboreal because while they do not climb
trees, they will perch on hills, fallen timber or logs a short distance from the ground
(Grenard, 2008).
BEARDED DRAGON HUSBANDRY
The importance of creating and maintaining the Bearded Dragon’s environment in
captivity cannot be emphasised enough. The health and well-being of the Bearded
Dragon depends on it. In fact, most of the problems seen in captive Bearded
Dragons are due to poor husbandry and is a leading cause of Bearded Dragons who
present at a veterinary hospital (Cannon, 2003; Doneley, 2006; Nevarez, 2009;
Reavill & Griffin, 2014; Stahl, 2003).
Husbandry techniques have greatly advanced in the past couple of decades to keep
up with the growing popularity of keeping reptile as pets (Barten & Fleming, 2014).
However, as previously stated, there is much conflicting advice on what is “proper” or
“appropriate” because it is subjective at best (Barten & Fleming, 2014; Nevarez,
2009).
To make things more difficult, there is currently no government regulatory authority
that monitors products manufactured for reptiles to determine their safety and
efficacy (Nevarez, 2009). Many companies are jumping on the reptile bandwagon to
take advantage of the growing popularity of keeping reptiles as pets. Some of these
companies are responsible and consult with veterinarians or herpetologists; however
others do not (Nevarez, 2009). This poses a risk to reptiles as companies are able to
make any claim they so desire, even if the product is of questionable value (Barten &
Fleming, 2014). Some may be inappropriate or even dangerous for the reptile for
which it was intended (Barten & Fleming, 2014; Nevarez, 2009). Furthermore, with
hundreds of different species of reptiles, products intended for one species may well
be potentially harmful to another (Nevarez, 2009).
The success of maintaining happy and healthy Bearded Dragons in captivity
depends on the owner achieving two goals:
1. Proper Environment
2. Adequate Nutrition (Nevarez, 2009)
As nutrition was discussed in our Nutritional Facts and Food List, this Care Sheet will
focus on creating a proper environment for the Bearded Dragon. In terms of proper
environment, the goal is to create a captive environment which is similar to the
conditions in the wild (Barten & Fleming, 2014). Therefore, apart from providing a
nutritious and balanced diet which was discussed in our Nutrition Fact Sheet,
herpetologic husbandry boils down to:
1. Providing an Adequate Enclosure
2. Temperature Gradients to Allow Thermoregulation
3. Humidity
4. Ultraviolet (UV) Light Sources (Barten & Fleming, 2014)
We shall now look at each of these in detail.
Providing an Adequate Enclosure
There are many considerations when creating your enclosure for your pet. A sample
enclosure design for an adult Bearded Dragon can be found in Figure 1.
Figure 1. Sample set-up for an adult bearded dragon (Nelson, 2009)
SPATIAL REQUIREMENTS
Bearded Dragons love to sprint, climb and perch. Therefore, these lizards appreciate
very sizeable housing (Grenard, 2008). As with other information pertaining to the
Bearded Dragon, there are no set standards as to what is deemed sufficient space
for them. Bearded Dragons can grow up to 2 feet in length (Nelson, 2009), and very
often their size is taken into account in determining the required size of their
enclosure.
As a minimum requirement, the following formula is generally used to determine the
size of an enclosure for a single adult Bearded Dragon (Barten & Fleming, 2014;
Doneley, 2006; Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009; RijnBerk & van Sluijs, 2009):
Length of enclosure
Width of enclosure
Height of enclosure
=
Length of Bearded Dragon x 2
=
2 feet x 2
=
4 feet
=
Length of Bearded Dragon
=
2 feet
=
Length of Bearded Dragon
=
2 feet
In the case of the Bearded Dragon, bigger is definitely better and it is impossible to
provide too large an enclosure for them (Barten & Fleming, 2014; Nelson, 2009).
Why Bigger is Better (Barten & Fleming, 2014; Nelson, 2009):
1. A larger and more natural enclosure enables observation and appreciation of the
Bearded Dragon’s natural behaviour.
2. A larger enclosure allows more cage furniture, improving the welfare and
behavioural well-being of the Bearded Dragon.
3. Reptiles in larger cages tend to be more active which in turn leads to less obesity
and increased muscle tone.
4. A larger cage allows
thermoregulation.
for
wider
thermal
gradients
leading
to
5. Reduces stress in the Bearded Dragon.
6. A larger cage is more aesthetically pleasing.
better
PLACEMENT OF ENCLOSURE
In determining where to place your indoor enclosure, keep in mind the following
guidelines. Find an area:
1. Without excessive noise or vibration (Nelson, 2009).
2. Not subject to extreme temperature fluctuations (Nelson, 2009).
3. Which is entertaining for them. They are curious, so try not to hide them away
(Tosney).
MATERIALS FOR THE ENCLOSURE
When thinking about obtaining an enclosure for the Bearded Dragon, a glass
aquarium may automatically come to mind probably due to being exposed to them in
pet stores. If there is an old, glass aquarium available, feel free to use it, even if it is
no longer waterproof because Bearded Dragons do not need waterproof enclosures
as their native habitats are arid (Grenard, 2008).
However, many other materials can be used to house the Bearded Dragon including
wooden, plastic, melamine or fibreglass cages (Barten & Fleming, 2014; Grenard,
2008).
Fibreglass vs. Glass Enclosures
Fibreglass enclosures are a better choice than glass enclosures for the following
reasons (Barten & Fleming, 2014). Fibreglass enclosures are:
1. Available in larger sizes.
2. Specially manufactured to house captive reptiles.
3. Cheaper than glass aquariums.
4. Better at retaining heat and humidity.
5. Lighter.
6. More durable.
7. Easily stackable.
8. Easier to attach light and heat sources.
9. Easier to clean than glass aquariums.
Regardless of the material used for the floor and sides of the enclosure, a mesh
screen is advised for the cover. This allows penetration of natural or artificial
ultraviolet light, provides ventilation, keeps the Bearded Dragon in and other
household pets like cats or dogs out.
SUBSTRATE
Substrate refers to the substance used to cover the floor of the enclosure. In
choosing a substrate for the enclosure, the safety and hygiene of your Bearded
Dragon should trump aesthetics (Doneley, 2006). Substrates should also be easy to
clean and replace (Cannon, 2003; Doneley, 2006; Nelson, 2009; RijnBerk & van
Sluijs, 2009).
Before choosing a substrate, it is important to understand a couple of things about
the Bearded Dragon. Firstly, they use their tongue to explore their environment. As
such, their tongues will come into contact with the substrate, and often. Secondly,
they have a delicate digestive system. Ingesting a substrate that cannot be digested
is extremely dangerous to the Bearded Dragon as it may lead to intestinal blockage
– similar to constipation in humans but with more dire consequences. Fecal
impaction causes paralysis and can be fatal. Baby and juvenile Bearded Dragons
are more susceptible to fecal impaction due to their digestive system which has not
fully developed and their size. As such, different substrates are required for baby /
juvenile dragons and adults.
Baby and Juvenile Bearded Dragons
For baby and juvenile dragons, plain white, unprinted paper towels or unprinted
newspaper is recommended as a substrate (Doneley, 2006; Grenard, 2008; Nelson,
2009; Tosney). This is one of the few areas where there is a consensus in the care
of the Bearded Dragon. Substrates with loose particles are not recommended for
Bearded Dragons under the age of 6 months as their digestive systems are more
fragile and delicate when compared with their adult counterparts (Nelson, 2009).
Kitchen paper towels and unprinted newspaper are not only safer because they
cannot be ingested (Doneley, 2006), but they are also easy to clean and replace and
are cost-effective.
Adults
Bearded Dragons have a high metabolism (Tosney) when provided with the right
conditions. Therefore, the substrate needs to be spot-cleaned often and replaced
periodically when soiled with waste and uneaten food (Barten & Fleming, 2014;
Tosney). Due to its ease of cleaning and replacing as well as time-saving properties,
many owners continue to use unprinted paper towels and unprinted newspapers as
a substrate for adults (Cannon, 2003). However, these substrates are not
aesthetically pleasing (Doneley, 2006) and other owners choose to change the
substrate to a more aesthetically pleasing one when their Bearded Dragons reach
adulthood and have a less delicate digestive system.
Other suitable substrates include butcher’s paper, brown paper, alfalfa pellets
(digestible rabbit pellets), tiles, reptile carpet, Astroturf and non-silica based play
sand. If Astroturf, reptile carpet and other similar carpet materials are used, it is
important to ensure that the carpets are tightly woven to prevent the Bearded Dragon
from catching their nails in the weave and consequently ripping them off in their
attempt to escape (Grenard, 2008). Also regularly check for frayed areas as loose
threads can cause impactions (Tosney).
Substrates which are not suitable and can be harmful to your Bearded Dragon are:
•
Wood chips (Barten & Fleming, 2014)
•
Bark (Barten & Fleming, 2014; Doneley, 2006)
•
Synthetic particulates (Grenard, 2008)
•
Small pebbles (Grenard, 2008)
•
Walnut shells (Grenard, 2008)
•
Cedar shavings (Grenard, 2008; Tosney)
•
Calcium-fortified sands (Nelson, 2009)
•
Cypress (Tosney)
The Hot Debate about Sand as a Substrate
Using sand as a substrate is a highly debated topic among keepers of Bearded Dragons. This is because sand seems like
a natural substrate seeing as Bearded Dragons originate from the arid desert lands of Australia. However, unlike the soft
sand dunes found in the Sahara desert, the ground of deserts in Australia are hard with a light sprinkling of dust because
the sand is highly compacted (Tosney). The online reptile community is rife with questions about whether sand as a
substrate is ©safe
for the 2014
Bearded
Sand has| Raising
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be a contributing
factor of fecal impaction if the
Copyright
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Rights Reserved
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Bearded Dragon ingests too much sand.
(Barten & Fleming, 2014; Cannon, 2003; Grenard, 2008; Tosney) provided the Bearded Dragons are provided with proper
nutrition, appropriate temperature gradients and UVB light (Barten & Fleming, 2014).
Our position in this debate is that calcium-fortified sands are not safe for Bearded Dragons for several reasons. Firstly, the
dragon may deliberately ingest the substrate to fulfil its need for calcium (Tosney). This makes it difficult to gauge the
calcium intake of the Bearded Dragon. All Bearded Dragons need to get their nutrition from their food, not from the
substrate. Consuming the substrate can be harmful (Nelson, 2009). Secondly, they may ingest it accidentally when it gets
on their tongue or on their food (Tosney). Some have reported impaction with calcium-fortified sands as a result,
particularly with baby Bearded Dragons (Nelson, 2009; Tosney).
If sand substrate is desired for aesthetic purposes, we recommend non-silica based children’s play sand for dragons over
a year old (Nelson, 2009). Silica has very sharp edges and it can compact in the intestine of the Bearded Dragon, leading
to fatal impaction (Tosney). The play sand however, needs to be washed and screened for larger particles such as bits of
rock which could cause impaction (Nelson, 2009). Finer reptile sand is also commercially available and it is advised to mix
the play sand with reptile sand of a darker colour so that the Bearded Dragon can find their prey which would be white
after being dusted with the calcium supplement (Nelson, 2009). Take special care in choosing the darker coloured sand as
some pretty colours may dye your Bearded Dragon’s feet and belly.
Tips for Preventing Ingestion of the Sand Substrate
1. Feed the Bearded Dragon out of its enclosure.
2. Put food on a large tray so that the food is not in contact with the substrate (Barten & Fleming, 2014).
3. Provide a contained area of sand e.g. a box or tub large enough for the digging pleasure of the Bearded Dragon
(Nelson, 2009).
ENCLOSURE FURNISHINGS
Planning, shopping for and decorating the enclosure for the Bearded Dragon can be
really exciting. Amid all the excitement, however, it is important to be aware of the
Bearded Dragon’s needs and be sure to take their naturally predisposed behaviour
and natural habitat into account. Suitable enclosure furnishings include rocks,
branches, plants and water bowls (Reptilian Needs Can Be Complicated Part 2:
Reptile Husbandry, 2013).
Perches / Climbing Areas
Bearded Dragons love to climb, and this needs to be provided in captivity (Cannon,
2003; Doneley, 2006; Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009; Tosney). Being semi-arboreal,
they do not need to climb very high and are happy with perches just 4-6 inches
above the substrate (Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009). They often bask and rest on
upright posts (Cannon, 2003). Providing these in captivity makes them feel secure. A
flat rock or log under the basking light is recommended (Nelson, 2009).
Shelters
Bearded Dragons also like having somewhere to hide, to go to for security, to have
naps or sleep (Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009). Ideally, an enclosure should be large
enough to provide a hiding place at the warm side, and another at the cool side
(Cannon, 2003; Nelson, 2009). As a minimum requirement, at least one hiding place
needs to be provided on the cool side (Doneley, 2006; Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009;
RijnBerk & van Sluijs, 2009; Tosney).
Bearded Dragons are not very picky in terms of their shelter, and any overturned
object with an opening will suffice as a shelter (Grenard, 2008). To cater for the
aesthetics of the enclosure, there are many types of shelter available including half
round hollow logs, hiding dens or PVC pipes (Nelson, 2009).
Water Bowls
Water bowls should be small and shallow (Doneley, 2006; Nelson, 2009; Reptilian
Needs Can Be Complicated Part 2: Reptile Husbandry, 2013). Many keepers use a
small bottle cap as a water bowl. The water bowl needs to be placed away from the
basking light (Nelson, 2009) to minimise evaporation which will increase the humidity
in the enclosure. The water needs to be changed and the dish washed daily to
prevent the growth of bacteria (Tosney).
Warnings on Enclosure Furnishings
•
If putting plants in the enclosure ensure that they are non-toxic to the Bearded Dragon. Also stay away from broadleafed plants as they can get wet underneath the foliage (Doneley, 2006), increasing the humidity of the enclosure.
•
Avoid the use of too much furnishing. They not only make cleaning the enclosure difficult (Nelson, 2009), but also
provide lots of hiding places for live food. This poses a couple of problems. Firstly, the Bearded Dragon will not be able
to find their prey and secondly, hiding prey may stress the Bearded Dragon at best, but there is also the potential for the
live prey to injure the dragon (Tosney).
•
Be sure to select furnishings that will not fall over and crush the Bearded Dragon or crush them when they try to burrow
beneath it (Nelson, 2009).
•
Look for products which are light in weight, durable and easy to clean (Nelson, 2009).
Copyright
Rights Reserved
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your Bearded Dragon (Nelson, 2009).
Make sure that the Bearded Dragon cannot easily fall off a branch or rock ledge and injure itself (Reptilian Needs Can
•
•
Enclosure Lighting
Bearded Dragons need sunlight to survive in captivity (Cannon, 2003). It is therefore
ideal to expose the Bearded Dragon to natural sunlight, unfiltered by glass or plastic
(Baines, 2014; Cannon, 2003; Doneley, 2006; Grenard, 2008).
The full light spectrum includes ultraviolet A, B and C, visible light and infrared light.
In natural sunlight, the atmosphere blocks out the harmful UVC, and therefore only
UVA and UVB reach the ground on earth. The Bearded Dragon uses all these types
of light (with the exception of UVC) in the following ways:
UVA
UVA is detected by the pineal (or third) eye (Grenard, 2008). UVA provides Bearded
Dragons with a positive environment stimulus, which makes them eat better,
maintain their activity levels, encourage normal behaviour, perhaps even to breed
(Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009).
UVB
UVB is required for both calcium metabolism and the production of Vitamin D3
(Baines, 2014; Cannon, 2003; Doneley, 2006; Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009;
Oonincx, Stevens, van den Borne, van Leeuwen, & Hendriks, 2010; Tosney; UV
Guide UK, 2012). A study on Vitamin D3 synthesis found that exposing Bearded
Dragons to over 2 hours of sunlight enabled them to produce more Vitamin D3 than
those who were given 4 times the recommended dose of Vitamin D3 supplements
(Oonincx, Stevens, van den Borne, van Leeuwen, & Hendriks, 2010).
Visible Light
This type of light allows the Bearded Dragon to see its prey or other Bearded
Dragons. They have very good colour vision (Baines, 2014).
Infrared
Bearded Dragons use infrared for warmth.
Although full-spectrum lights are constantly being improved, they cannot match
natural sunlight (Nelson, 2009). Exposing the Bearded Dragon to natural sunlight is,
therefore, ideal (Baines, 2014; Cannon, 2003; Doneley, 2006; Grenard, 2008).
How do we determine the amount of UV required by the Bearded Dragon? We
cannot go wrong by looking at their UV requirements in the wild (Baines, 2014; UV
Guide UK, 2012). Once we are able to determine the conditions of their natural
habitat, we can then attempt to emulate those conditions.
As the most common Bearded Dragon in captivity is the Inland or Central Bearded
Dragon (Pogona Vitticeps), we shall focus on their natural habitat. They are found, in
the arid, desert lands of Australia. This includes the town of Alice Springs (Parks and
Wildlife Commission NT, 2014) which is part of the Northern Territory. The following
graph depicts the UV index for the year to date (May 2013 to April 2014) (Australian
Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency, 2014).
UV Index
Monthly UV Radiation Index in Alice Springs,
Northern Territory, Australia
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Mode
Highest
Lowest
The UV Index became the standardized reporting measure of UV radiation levels in
1999 (Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency, 2013). It takes
into account the ozone amounts, the angle of the sun (by latitude, day of year and
time of day) and adjusts for the sensitivity of the human skin (United States
Environmental Protection Agency, 2012), and is the joint effort of the World Health
Organization, World Meteorological Organization, UN Environmental Programme
and the International Commission of Non-Ionizing Radiation Protection (Australian
Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency, 2013).
Each point on the UV Index is equivalent to 25µW/cm2 of UV radiation, and they are
grouped as follows (Bureau of Meteorology, Australia, 2014):
UV Index
Classification
1, 2
Actual (µW/cm2)
Lower Limit
Upper Limit
Low
0
62.49
3, 4, 5
Moderate
62.5
137.49
6, 7
High
137.5
187.49
8, 9, 10
Very High
187.5
262.49
11 and above
Extreme
262.5
And Above
From the chart and the table, it is apparent that there is high UV exposure in the
town of Alice Springs. The UV Index is in the Extreme range for 6 out of the 12
months of the year. Wild Bearded Dragons are therefore used to the high UV
exposure.
The same UV Index can be used to monitor the amount of UV exposure for the
Bearded Dragon in captivity (Baines, 2014). By measuring a reptile lamp’s intensity
at different distances, we can assess the lamp’s value in terms of its ability to help in
Vitamin D3 synthesis and the safety of the Bearded Dragon (Baines, 2014).
Artificial reptile lighting loses its effectiveness after a period of time. While it may still
shine, it may not produce the ultraviolet A and B that is needed by the Bearded
Dragon (Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009; Reptilian Needs Can Be Complicated Part 2:
Reptile Husbandry, 2013). Therefore, it may be worthwhile to invest in a meter
(Grenard, 2008) to check the efficiency of the lamp’s UV-producing properties. As a
general guide, lamps should be changed every 6 to 12 months (Cannon, 2003;
Doneley, 2006; Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009).
The efficiency of UV lamps diminishes with increased distance (Nelson, 2009). It is
recommended that the UV lamp be placed within 30 centimetres of the lizard. The
lighting also helps Bearded Dragons tell the difference between night and day. To
assist with their circadian (daily) rhythms (Baines, 2014), it is advised that the light
be turned on for about 12 to 14 hours during spring and winter and between 10 to 12
hours during winter and fall (Doneley, 2006; Grenard, 2008; Tosney). Alternatively,
lights can be switched on at sunrise and switched off at sunset. Investing in a timer
may be beneficial.
Temperature Requirements
Bearded Dragons are ecotherms, meaning that they derive heat from their
surroundings (Grenard, 2008). Typical of ecotherms, they thermoregulate by
choosing between available temperatures in their environment (Khan, Richardson, &
Tattersall, 2010). They do this through their behaviour – moving in and out of the sun
in their natural habitat. They bask in the sun to increase their body temperature and
move out of the sun when they get too hot (Baines, 2014; Grenard, 2008), thereby
sustaining a relatively constant preferred body temperature (Grenard, 2008; Khan,
Richardson, & Tattersall, 2010).
In captivity, it is essential to provide them with a thermal gradient (range of
temperatures) so that the Bearded Dragon can thermoregulate (Barten & Fleming,
2014; Grenard, 2008; Nelson, 2009; Nevarez, 2009; Reptilian Needs Can Be
Complicated Part 2: Reptile Husbandry, 2013; RijnBerk & van Sluijs, 2009; Tosney)
Providing an improper thermal gradient is one of the most common factors in
illnesses in the captive Bearded Dragons (Reavill & Griffin, 2014; Tosney) as their
survival and fitness is dependent upon their ability to regulate their own temperature
(Khan, Richardson, & Tattersall, 2010), at about 95°F (Cannon, 2003; Doneley,
2006; Nelson, 2009; Reptilian Needs Can Be Complicated Part 2: Reptile
Husbandry, 2013).
Achieving and maintaining the preferred body temperature is essential for
metabolism, endurance, locomotor performance, enzyme function, digestion and
growth (Khan, Richardson, & Tattersall, 2010; Wright, 2008). Bearded Dragons need
warmth to digest their food. Without warmth, the food will rot in their gut, making
them sick (Tosney). Temperatures also influence the foraging success of the
Bearded Dragons. At higher temperatures, their perception, coordination and muscle
function is enhanced (Khan, Richardson, & Tattersall, 2010). When temperatures are
too low, Bearded Dragons are unable to digest their food, metabolize calcium and
grow (Wright, 2008). If temperatures are too high, enzymes and other proteins
involved in calcium metabolism may not work well (Wright, 2008). It is therefore
paramount to provide a range of temperatures for the Bearded Dragon so that it can
choose where it is most comfortable (Nelson, 2009).
TEMPERATURES IN THE NATURAL HABITAT
As with every aspect of enclosure design, temperatures can be emulated by
determining the temperatures in the natural habitats of the Bearded Dragon. As
mentioned previously, the Inland Bearded Dragon can be found in arid desert lands
of Australia, mainly in South Australia and the Northern Territory. Maximum and
minimum temperatures for Alice Springs in the Northern Territory and Hawker in the
Flinders Ranges of South Australia are as follows:
Maximum and Minimum Temperatures
Alice Springs, Northern Territory, Australia
Temperature in Fahrenheit
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
Mean Maximum Daily Temperature
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
NOV
DEC
Mean Minimum Daily Temperature
The Eastern Bearded Dragon hails from more temperate climates and can be found
in South Australia, all the way along the eastern coast of Australia to Cairns. They
can be found in the Mount Lofty Ranges of South Australia. Mean minimum and
maximum temperatures of Mount Lofty are found in Figure ?.
As the graphs show, the natural environment of the Bearded Dragon comprises of a
range of temperatures. As such, this temperature range needs to be provided in
captivity. This is done through the provision of a thermal gradient, both horizontally
and vertically (Johnson-Delaney, 2008). A horizontal gradient is provided by having a
cool end and a warm end in the enclosure. A vertical gradient is provided by having
elevated areas of the enclosure which are warmer than the ground / substrate area,
like the basking area, for example.
Hawker, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
100
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
NOV
DEC
Hawker, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
NOV
DEC
The preferred optimum temperature range for the Bearded Dragon is between 95°F
and 102°F (Cannon, 2003; Doneley, 2006). This refers to the temperatures that
Bearded Dragons need to maintain healthy and natural body functions (Cannon,
2003). It also refers to the range of temperatures that need to be provided for captive
Bearded Dragons so that they have the opportunity to self regulate their body
temperatures like they would in the wild.
The following temperatures are required to enable the Bearded Dragon to
thermoregulate, reach its preferred body temperature and take into account their
preferred optimum temperature range. As such, the enclosure must have areas that
are hot, areas that are cooler and areas which are cooler still (Grenard, 2008).
Daytime Temperatures
Basking Area – Warmest Area (Doneley, 2006; RijnBerk & van Sluijs, 2009; Tosney)
Minimum Temperature
Maximum Temperature
95° Fahrenheit
104° Fahrenheit
Warm Area (Grenard, 2008; RijnBerk & van Sluijs, 2009; Tosney):
Minimum Temperature
Maximum Temperature
75° Fahrenheit
93° Fahrenheit
Cool Area (Khan, Richardson, & Tattersall, 2010; Tosney):
Minimum Temperature
Maximum Temperature
70° Fahrenheit
84° Fahrenheit
Night-time Temperatures
Bearded Dragons are used to the cooler desert nights (RijnBerk & van Sluijs, 2009).
At night, they maintain heat from the ground which retains heat from absorbing the
sun’s heat (Doneley, 2006; Grenard, 2008). In captivity, they may burrow into the
substrate to obtain heat (Cannon, 2003).
Night time temperatures can drop to below 65°F or less overnight, provided it rises
up to at least 82°F during the day (Nelson, 2009). This can be achieved by turning
off the lights. If ambient temperatures fall below this temperature, it is best to use a
ceramic heat emitter. Avoid the use of coloured heat lights – be they black, red or
blue – as this disturbs them.
CREATING A THERMAL GRADIENT
Thermal gradients can be created by placing the heat source at one end of the
enclosure (Cannon, 2003; Reptilian Needs Can Be Complicated Part 2: Reptile
Husbandry, 2013; RijnBerk & van Sluijs, 2009), preferably above the basking area.
Compared with fluorescent tubes which are used to provide UV rays, mercury
vapour spotlights and mercury vapour flood lights provide a significantly higher
amount of heat (Barten & Fleming, 2014). The spot lamp produces heat which is
strong and focused, while the flood lamp produces strong heat over a larger surface
area (Barten & Fleming, 2014). Common 75W or 100W household incandescent
bulbs may also be used to provide light and heat. Bearded Dragons are used to
getting radiant heat from above them; therefore the mercury vapour spotlight would
be good if they are placed over the basking spot.
Besides using lamps for heat, other appliances can be used as well. These include
ceramic heaters, electric heating pads and heat tape (Johnson-Delaney, 2008;
Reptilian Needs Can Be Complicated Part 2: Reptile Husbandry, 2013; RijnBerk &
van Sluijs, 2009). A combination of heating sources can be employed.
Warnings on Heat Sources
•
•
•
•
•
•
Avoid the use of hot rocks. Bearded Dragons obtain their heat from above. They may not know that they are being
burned until it is too late (Tosney). Hot rocks may burn the belly of the Bearded Dragon (Doneley, 2006).
Ensure that the heat source is far enough from the Bearded Dragon so that they do not get burned (Doneley, 2006;
Reptilian Needs Can Be Complicated Part 2: Reptile Husbandry, 2013; RijnBerk & van Sluijs, 2009).
Monitor the temperature regularly using a thermometer to ensure that the right temperatures are being provided for the
Bearded Dragon (Barten & Fleming, 2014; Johnson-Delaney, 2008).
Using a thermostat is highly advised so that the Bearded Dragon does not get too hot or cold (Barten & Fleming, 2014).
Adjust the wattage of the bulb and elevation of the basking area to ensure the right temperatures are being provided
(Tosney).
Ensure that the Bearded Dragon has access to shade and shelter to get away from the heat and cool down (Cannon,
2003; Tosney).
Health Requirements
Health Requirements
Bearded Dragons need to be monitored constantly, just like a mother looks after her
children, regardless of how old they become. It is important to check on your
Bearded Dragon daily to determine their health, taking note of changes in their
behaviour as well as their appearance.
Happy, Healthy Bearded Dragons
While not an exhaustive list, the following are some indicators that your Bearded
Dragon is happy and healthy (Cannon, 2003; Grenard, 2008):
•
Good appetite for both insects and plants
•
Eyes are wide open and clear
•
Appropriate skin texture without any abnormal bumps
•
Has all five toes with claws on all four feet
•
Normal colouration
•
Clean anal region
•
Healthy mouth
•
Active
•
Has a full tail
•
Stand high and strongly on all four limbs
•
Body and limb muscles are well-rounded and firm
•
No excessive folding or creasing of the skin
•
They run away quickly when you try to catch them
Sick Bearded Dragons
If your Bearded Dragon is unwell, you can expect the following symptoms and/or
behaviours, although once again, this is not an exhaustive list (Cannon, 2003;
Tosney):
•
Weight loss or reduced growth
•
Dehydration
•
Abnormal odour
•
Seeking higher temperatures more frequently than normal
•
Changes to skin and mucous membranes
•
Reduction in eating or not eating altogether
•
Swelling
•
Vomiting
•
Lethargy and inactivity
•
Abnormal behaviour
•
Visible lumps anywhere on the body
•
Runny stools
•
Appears stressed and hides more frequently
Health Requirements
As mentioned previously, many of the illnesses and problems found in captive
Bearded Dragons can almost be directly attributed to poor husbandry and provision
of improper conditions. Therefore, if your pet is looking stressed or unhappy, always
check the conditions of its enclosure and make changes accordingly as the first step.
However, if your Bearded Dragon is showing any or all of these signs over a period
of several days despite correct husbandry conditions, it is an indication that
something is not right and your Bearded Dragon might need the vet. If in doubt, err
on the side of caution and bring it to the vet anyway.
Some Helpful Tips about Choosing a Veterinarian
Just as you wouldn’t visit an oncologist (cancer specialist) for a heart condition, you need to ensure that the vet you select for
the ongoing care of your Bearded Dragon has the knowledge and expertise in dealing with reptiles or Bearded Dragons.
While there are many who are familiar with treating small animals, not many are familiar with the care of exotic pets and you
need to find one who is. Select a vet before your pet actually needs professional help.
There are several websites that allow owners of reptiles to search for a local vet. These include:
1. The Association of Reptile and Amphibian Vets which can be found at www.arav.org/find-a-vet/
2. Herp Vet Connection which not only provides listing of veterinarians, but also features reviews from clients, allowing pet
owners to make informed decisions. The Herp Vet Connection can be found at www.herpvetconnection.com
Health Requirements
Record-keeping For the Bearded Dragon
When we are sick and go to the doctor, we get asked several questions, even
though we have answered them numerous times before. Here are some of the more
common questions asked by the veterinarian, especially during the first visit.
HISTORY (Cannon, 2003)
When was the Bearded Dragon acquired?
What source was it acquired from (e.g. pet store, breeder, etc)?
What is the animal’s age?
HUSBANDRY (Cannon, 2003; Wright, 2008)
How long has the Bearded Dragon been in this environment?
Have there been any recent changes to the enclosure?
What is the size of the enclosure?
What type of enclosure is it?
Does the substrate contain calcium?
What is the range of temperatures in the enclosure?
What is the humidity in the enclosure?
What light sources are being used for heat as well as UV light?
DIET (Cannon, 2003; Wright, 2008)
Type of food items provided – are you feeding diets that contain oxalates or
which are lacking in sufficient calories, fats or proteins to stimulate growth?
Quantity offered?
Frequency of feeding?
Method of presentation?
Are insects gut loaded before being fed to the Bearded Dragon?
When was the last meal?
Is sufficient drinking water provided?
SUPPLEMENT (Cannon, 2003; Wright, 2008)
What supplements do you use?
How often are supplements provided?
How are the supplements being offered?
How are supplements stored?
Health Requirements
MISCELLANEOUS (Cannon, 2003; Wright, 2008)
When did the Bearded Dragon last defecate or pass urine? Was it normal?
Does the Bearded Dragon have any cage mates? If so, how many and what are
their behaviours like?
Are there more than 1 person feeding the Bearded Dragon?
Describe the most recent skin-shedding (ecdysis). When was it and was it
normal?
How often is the Bearded Dragon handled?
What techniques are used to handle the Bearded Dragon?
Are there any changes to the Bearded Dragon’s behaviour? E.g. sitting in an
unexpected position, responding differently to your presence or approach,
periods of excessive inactivity.
Common Ailments of the Bearded Dragon
Just like humans and other animals, Bearded Dragons have their own range of
illnesses including:
•
•
•
•
•
Nutritional Secondary Hyperparathyroidism (NSHP)
Intestinal Parasites
Adenovirus
Peridontal Disease
Constipation
In the following table, we try to explain as simply as possible the causes, signs,
treatment and preventative methods of these diseases – trying as much as possible
to leave out the medical jargon.
Ailment
Nutritional
Secondary
Hyperparathyroidism
(NHSP)
Health Requirements
Causes
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Symptoms
Poor husbandry conditions
Low dietary calcium
Too much calcium
Insufficient Vitamin D
Excessive phosphorus in
the diet
Fed diet with inverse
calcium-to-phosphorus ratio
No mineral or vitamin
supplements
Lack of exposure to UVB
radiation
Restricted thermal
environment where high
critical temperature is not
available
(Stahl, 2003; Wright, 2008)
•
•
•
•
Usually not a problem, but
sometimes the organisms
may reach high numbers
which can result in
superinfections
(Grenard, 2008; Stahl,
2003)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Treatment
Bloating
Tremors
Stunted growth
Deformed or fractured
bones
Soft bones
Spinal deviations
Paralysis
May not hold its head and
shoulders as far off the
ground as it should
Curved tail tip
Forelegs splay horizontally
instead of remaining on a
vertical plane
•
•
Gastrointestinal pain
Malabsorption
Diarrhea
Anorexia
Weight loss
Lose fluids and get
dehydrated
2003)
•
•
•
•
•
•
Prevention
Rectifying husbandry issues
Supplemented calcium for
at least 6 to 12 weeks
Balanced diet
Appropriate environmental
temperatures
Appropriate UVB exposure
Proper hydration
•
Medication from the vet
In single pets and small
collections, eradication can
be manageable. May be
difficult to eradicate in larger
collections.
Simultaneous treatment of
the animal as well as the
animal’s environment.
Failure of treatment is often
caused by re-infection of the
environment.
2003)
•
•
•
•
•
Ensuring owners are
educated about the needs
of the Bearded Dragons
Providing appropriate
husbandry – correct
temperatures, lighting
Ensuring a balanced diet
Appropriate calcium
supplementation
Do not use calcium
substrate so that the
Bearded Dragon does not
ingest too much calcium
Coccidia
•
•
•
Have your vet perform
routine fecal floats to check
for coccidia.
Ailment
Causes
•
Oxyurids or
Pinworms
•
Health Requirements
•
Flagellates
Symptoms
Bearded Dragons tend to
defecate frequently and
often come into contact with
their stools
Like coccidia, in captivity,
these organisms can
reproduce quickly and
become superinfections
(Stahl, 2003)
•
Just like coccidia and
pinworms, flagellates can
also grow rapidly in captivity
and cause hassles
(Stahl, 2003)
•
•
•
Poor growth
(Stahl, 2003)
Treatment
•
•
Treatment by the vet
Keeping the environment
clean and simple during
treatment is important for its
success
(Stahl, 2003)
Prevention
•
•
•
Diarrhea
Anorexia
Dehydration
•
•
Treatment by the vet
Keeping the environment
clean and simple during
treatment is important for its
success
(Stahl, 2003)
•
•
•
Bacterial and Fungal
Dermatitis
•
•
High humidity
Poor husbandry
•
•
•
•
Moist skin
Change of skin colour from
yellow to grey
Deep ulcerations
Crusts may form
(Stahl, 2003)
•
If a skin biopsy has
determined that the
condition is indeed caused
by bacteria or fungal
infection, topical treatment
with cream as well as
antimicrobials may be
necessary to stop the
progression of the condition
(Stahl, 2003).
•
Improve husbandry
conditions if that was the
cause
•
As Oxyurids or Pinworms
are detected via fecal
examinations, regular
checks might be a
preventative method.
Maintain hygiene in the
enclosure
Remove faeces as soon as
possible
(Stahl, 2003)
As Flagellates are detected
via direct fecal smears,
regular checks might be a
preventative method.
Maintain hygiene in the
enclosure
Remove faeces as soon as
possible
(Stahl, 2003)
Ensure that husbandry
conditions are catered to the
needs of your Bearded
Dragon
Ailment
Peridontal Disease
Constipation
Health Requirements
Causes
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Symptoms
Due to the nature of the
teeth of the Bearded Dragon
which are not rooted but
simply attached to the
surface of both the
mandibular and maxillary
bones, this results in a gum
line which can be readily
permeated by bacteria.
(Stahl, 2003)
•
•
•
NHSP is a contributing
factor for many Bearded
Dragons with constipation.
Inappropriate substrate (e.g.
leading to impaction)
Lack of sufficient green,
leafy produce in the diet.
Inadequate water intake.
Poor hygiene
Recently acquired
Movement to new enclosure
New cagemates
Old age
Previous trauma
Failure to provide warm
enough hot spot in the
enclosure (Wright, 2008)
•
Discolouration
Irregularities in surface
Loss of tissue
(Stahl, 2003)
Treatment
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
May appear bright, alert and
well-fleshed
Weak
Poorly responsive
Underweight
Loss of appetite
Dehydrated (Wright, 2008)
•
•
•
•
•
Prevention
Gentle curettage to assess
soft tissue and bone
involvement
Deep culture of lesions for
management
Surgical curettage may be
necessary
Appropriate systemic
antimicrobial
(Stahl, 2003)
•
Regular oral examinations
should be performed on the
Bearded Dragon (Stahl,
2003).
Treatment of a Bearded
Dragon with a colonic urate
obstruction is
straightforward.
Rehydrate by soaking in
shallow, lukewarm water for
30 to 120 minutes.
Some dragons will defecate
during the bath
Others that are severely
dehydrated will need a vet.
Usually, an enema is still
required after defecation.
(Wright, 2008)
•
Provide the Bearded
Dragon with sufficient
green, leafy vegetables.
Ensure the substrate used
does not cause impaction.
Ensure that temperatures in
the enclosure are suited to
the needs of the Bearded
Dragon
•
•
Ailment
Adenovirus
Health Requirements
Causes
Symptoms
There is no evidence for the
cause of the adenovirus
infection in Bearded Dragons.
Some theories include:
• Fecal-oral route
• Airborne transmission
• Vertical transmission from
the mother to the child
(Jacobsen, Kopit, Kennedy,
& Funk, 1996; Moorman, et
al., 2009)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Unspecific
Progressive weakness
Anorexia
Failure to gain weight
Wasting
Death of cells, organs or
tissue (necrosis)
Inflammation of the
gastrointenstinal tract and
liver
Neurological signs such as
head tilting and circling
Lethargy
Weakness
Diarrhea
Occasional cases of sudden
death
(Jacobsen, Kopit, Kennedy,
& Funk, 1996; Marja, 2009;
Moorman, et al., 2009;
Parkin, Archer, Childress, &
Wellehan Jr., 2009; Reavill
& Griffin, 2014)
Treatment
•
•
•
There is no treatment
currently available for the
Adenovirus
Antimicrobials used to
control secondary infections
Supportive treatment
(Kaplan, 2014; Marja, 2009)
Prevention
•
•
•
•
Quarantine new animals
Testing of new animals
Maintain hygiene
Use virucidal disinfectants
(Marja, 2009)
Handling
HANDLING THE BEARDED DRAGON
Grenard (2008, p. 104) has provided a comprehensive list of the Do’s and Don’ts
when it comes to handling your Bearded Dragons.
Baby / Juvenile
DO’S
•
Do approach them slowly, gently, and without threatening gestures.
•
Do place your finger under the chin and extend it under the body; the baby will
hold onto your finger.
•
Do transfer babies and their support to your hand.
•
Do always fully support your bearded dragon in the palm of your hand. Its head
should be facing away from you.
DON’TS
•
Don’t suddenly grab your bearded dragon.
•
Don’t grab them by their tails or limbs.
•
Don’t squeeze or press on your baby dragon. Children must be especially
cautioned, supervised, and taught not to do this.
•
If your Beardie decides to make a run for it or starts getting restless, don’t
suddenly grab it or make a fist to restrain it. Keep the palm of your other hand
open or flat and slightly cupped and quickly put it over your lizard, making a
“cave” for it. Beardies love to hide, even if it’s in a human hand.
Adults
DO’S
•
Do approach and pick up your lizard by first supporting the body.
•
Do hold it in your hand and support its tail with your upper arm.
•
Do gradually allow your beardie to perch on your chest or shoulder, but keep a
supporting hand handy, because adults tend not to hang on as tightly as babies.
Handling
DON’TS
•
Don’t grab or catch your Beardie by a leg or by grabbing its tail.
•
Don’t place them in situations where they might be tempted to jump from high
places, because they can break limbs or toes or otherwise injure themselves.
Beardies don’t lives in trees; they normally perch on bushes, rock formations, and
fence rails rarely more than few feet high.
References
REFERENCES
Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency. (2013, March 21). Solar UV Radiation
and the UV Index. Retrieved May 19, 2014, from http://www.arpansa.gov
au/RadiationProtection/Factsheet/is_UVIndex.cfm
Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency. (2014, May 15). Monthly UV Index
Summaries for Alice Springs. Retrieved May 19, 2014, from
http://arpansa.gov.au/uvindex/monthly/alimonthlysumm.htm
Baines, F. M. (2014, January 23). Reptile Lighting Information. Reptiles Magazine. Retrieved from
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Reptile-Health/Habitats-Care/Reptile-LightingInformation/
Barten, S. L., & Fleming, G. J. (2014). Chapter 1 - Current Herpetologic Husbandry and Products. In D.
R. Mader, & S. J. Divers (Eds.), Current Therapy in Reptile Medicine and Surgery (2nd ed., pp.
2-12). St. Louis, Missouri: Saunders Elsevier.
Bureau of Meteorology, Australia. (2014). About the UV Index. Retrieved May 19, 2014, from
http://bom.gov.au/uv/about_uv_index.shtml
Cannon, M. J. (2003). Husbandry and Veterinary Aspects of the Bearded Dragon (Pogona spp.).
Seminars in Avian and Exotic Pet Medicine, 12(4), 205-214.
Doneley, B. (2006). Caring for the Bearded Dragon. Retrieved from Chihuahuan Desert Wildlife
Rescue: http://www.cdwr.org/Downloads/Bearded.pdf
Grenard, S. (2008). Your Happy Healthy Pet - Bearded Dragon (2nd ed.). New Jersey: Wiley
Publishing, Inc.
Jacobsen, E. R., Kopit, W., Kennedy, F. A., & Funk, R. S. (1996). Coinfection of a Bearded Dragon,
Pogona vitticeps, with Adenovirus- and Dependovirus-like Viruses. Veterinary Pathology
Online, 33(3), 343-346.
Johnson-Delaney, C. A. (Ed.). (2008). Exotic Companion Medicine Handbook for Veterinarians. Lake
Worth, Florida: Zoological Education Network.
Kaplan, M. (2014, January 1). Adenovirus in Reptiles. Retrieved from Melissa Kaplan's Herp Care
Collection: http://anapsid.org/adenoviruses.html
Khan, J. J., Richardson, M. L., & Tattersall, G. J. (2010). Thermoregulation and Aggregation in
Neonatal Bearded Dragons (Pogona Vitticeps). Physiology and Behavior, 100, 180-186.
Marja, J. L. (2009). EAZWV Transmissible Disease Fact Sheet, Adenovirus Infection in Reptiles.
Retrieved from European Association of Zoo and Aquaria:
http://eaza.net/activities/tdfactsheets/002%20Adenovirus%20Infection%20In%20Reptiles.d
oc.pdf
References
Moorman, S., Seehusen, F., Reckling, D., Kilwinski, J., Puff, C., & Elhensheri, M. (2009). Systemic
Adenovirus Infection in Bearded Dragons (Pogona Vitticeps): Histological, Ultrastructural and
Molecular Findings. Journal of Comparative Pathology, 141(1), 78-83.
Nelson, A. (2009). Husbandry Manual For Bearded Dragons. Retrieved from New South Wales Fauna
and Marine Parks Association Inc.:
http://nswfmpa.org/Husbandry%20Manuals/Published%20Manuals/Reptilia/Bearded%20Dr
agons%20(Nelson).pdf
Nevarez, J. (2009). Chapter 8 - Lizards. In M. A. Mitchell, & T. N. Tully (Eds.), Manual of Exotic Pet
Practice (pp. 164-206). St. Louis, Missouri: Saunders Elsevier.
Oonincx, D. G., Stevens, Y., van den Borne, J. J., van Leeuwen, J. P., & Hendriks, W. H. (2010). Effects
of Vitamin D3 Supplementation and UVb Exposure on the Growth and Plasma Concentration
of Vitamin D3 Metabolites and Juvenile Bearded Dragons (Pogona Vitticeps). Comparative
Biochemistry and Physiology, Part B, 156, 122-128.
Parkin, D. B., Archer, L. L., Childress, A. L., & Wellehan Jr., J. F. (2009). Genotype Differentiation of
Agamid Adenovirus 1 in Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps) in the USA by Hexon Gene
Sequence. Infection, Genetics and Evolution, 9, 501-506.
Parks and Wildlife Commission NT. (2014). Reptiles. Retrieved May 19, 2014, from
http://www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au/wildlife/native/reptiles#.U3ms0tKSzK0
Reavill, D. R., & Griffin, C. (2014). Chapter 2 - Common Pathology and Diseases Seen in Pet Store
Reptiles. In D. R. Mader, & S. J. Divers (Eds.), Current Therapy in Reptile Medicine and
Surgery (2nd ed., pp. 13-19). St. Louis, Missouri: Saunders Elsevier.
Reptilian Needs Can Be Complicated Part 2: Reptile Husbandry. (2013, May 1). Wollondilly
Advertiser.
RijnBerk, A., & van Sluijs, F. J. (Eds.). (2009). Medical History and Physical Examination in Companion
Animals. United States: Elsevier Limited.
Stahl, S. J. (2003). Pet Lizard Conditions and Syndromes. Seminars in Avian and Exotic Pet Medicine,
12(3), 162-182.
Tosney, K. W. (n.d.). Caring for An Australian Bearded Dragon. Retrieved from Miami College of Arts
& Sciences: http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/Caresheet.pdf
United States Environmental Protection Agency. (2012). How UV Index is Calculated. Retrieved May
19, 2014, from http://www.epa.gov/sunwise/uvicalc.html
UV Guide UK. (2012). Retrieved from http://www.uvguide.co.uk
UV Guide UK. (2012). What UV Light Do Reptiles Need. Retrieved May 19, 2014, from
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/whatreptilesneed.htm
Wright, K. (2008). Two Common Disorders of Captive Bearded Dragons (Pogona Vitticeps):
Nutritional Secondary Hyperparathyroidism and Constipation. Journal of Exotic Pet Medicine,
17(4), 267-272.

Raising Bearded Dragons

Transcription

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