mud room storage bench

Transcription

UCCESS
D
LS
A
EE
TO
T
mud room
storage bench
GUARAN T
© 2013 August Home Publishing Co.
Designer Series Project
storage Bench
This handy bench is a great project to try your
hand at loose-tenon joinery.
A storage bench is a great addition
to an entry hall or mud room. This
design features three storage bays
— plenty of room to stow away
some clutter. To organize the space,
I used inexpensive baskets from a
housewares store. (It’s a good idea
to have the baskets in hand first.
This allows you to build the bench
to suit the baskets for a good fit.)
Since I wanted to paint this project, I used poplar and MDF for the
{ Pull-out baskets are a great alternative to drawers. bench. The hardwood top adds a
They help keep things in order (so nothing gets lost nice contrasting detail, and ensures
plenty of seating support.
in the back) and provide a clean look.
1
WoodsmithPlans.com
The construction is pretty
straightforward as well. I relied
on loose-tenon joinery for the
frame. The advantage of using
this type of joint is that you don’t
have to worry about fitting each
individual tenon to a particular
mortise. You just use a shop-made
router jig to rout perfectly sized
mortises, accurately positioned on
every workpiece. And because the
mortises are all the same size, you
can make all the tenons you’ll need
in just a few minutes at the router
table and table saw.
WS18222© 2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
#8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
#8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
46!/2"W x 18#/4"D x 30#/4"H
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
Arched back
rail adds
decorative
detail
17!/4
#8 x 3" Fh woodscrewNOTE: This
NSIONS:
NOTE: Refer to
FIRST:
This is
for an
!/16 !/8 !/4 page
#/4 11
easy-to-build router jig
#/8 !/2 %/8 for
&/8 cutting the mortises
SECOND: This
#8 x 1#/4" FhThin
woodscrew
back slats
fit in grooves
in the top and
center rails
Solid-wood
seat provides
THIRD:
sturdy This
support
Spacers in the
rails separate
the slats
26!/2
27#/8
17!/4
26!/2
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
27#/8
Pocket
screws attach
dividers to
front rail
Hardwood
edging covers
front edge of
dividers
Cleats on the
lower rails
support the
bottom
Loose-tenon
joinery speeds
construction and
ensures strength
Dividers fit into
dadoes in the
bottom to form
storage bays
Side panels fit in
grooves in rails
and legs
Legs are made
from 1#/4"-thick
stock to
guarantee a
strong frame
Edge of seat is
eased by adding a
slight roundover
Screws in cleat
attach solid-wood
seat to frame
Pocket screws
connect dividers to
front and back rails
Groove for panels
starts just below
mortise in rails
FRONT SECTION VIEW
2
WoodsmithPlans.com
SIDE SECTION VIEW
#/4"-Ply.
a.
1!/4
B
SIDE
SECTION
VIEW
#/4
b.
17!/4
A
#/4
#/8
!/4
26!/2
FRONT
LEG
FRONT
CLEAT
D
1!/4
16#/8
BACK VIEW
#/8
A
A
#8 x 1!/4"
Fh woodscrew
!/4
1&/16
A
2
3&/8
1!/4
42
C
42
B
C
16#/8
FRONT RAIL
Drill and countersink
for #8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
8
1
8
#/4
18
e.
A
D
FRONT CLEAT
FRONT
LEG
1!/4
#/4
NOTE: This
d.
1!/4
!/4
TOP
SECTION
27#/8 VIEW
C
A
c.
D
B
BACK VIEW
!/4
#/4
3&/8
#/4
start with the
Front Frame
#/4
#/4
SIDE SECTION
VIEW
1!/4
C
LOOSE
TENON
!/8" roundover
1#/4
1#/4
NOTE: Mortises and grooves
centered on width of legs
The bench consists of a front and them to size. Next, mark the loca- loose tenons. You only need about
back frame that hold the storage tions of the mortises on the legs and 30" of stock for the 20 tenons used
bays in between. Starting with the rails. You’ll want to pay particular throughout the project, but I usufront frame allows you to practice attention to the end points of each ally try to make a few extra. I
and perfect your technique for cut- mortise. Since the router jig you’ll started by resawing and planing
ting and fitting loose tenons. This be using will keep the cut centered, some hardwood stock to fit snugly
way, when you get to work on the the start and stop locations are the in the mortise (1⁄4"). It’s a good
more involved back frame, you’ll key layout marks.
idea to begin with the stock a little
be an old hand at the joinery and
thicker than the mortise and then
Rout the Mortises. Now you’re ready
assembly processes.
to cut the mortises for the loose ten- sneak up on a good fit.
The frame is simply two legs ons. The techniques illustrated on
After you’ve milled the stock
joined by two rails. As I said page 4 give you an overview of each to thickness, you can move to the
earlier, the loose tenons provide of the different types of cuts you’ll router table and round over all four
strong joints. I used the router jig need to make.
edges. Then, all that remains to do is
shown on page 4 to cut the morI started by routing the mortises cut the tenons to final length.
tises. It’s simple to build, accurate, in the legs. Note that the mortises on
Assembly. Begin assembling the
and very easy to use.
the back face are joined by a shallow front frame by gluing tenons in
each of the mortises on the rails.
Legs. To give the bench plenty groove that holds the side panels.
of strength, I used 8/4 stock (13⁄4" You can rout this groove using the Then add glue in the leg mortises
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
1. Finishe
and clamp the assembly.
thick) for the legs. If you can’t find router jig, as well.
of patt
For the mortises in the rails, start
stock this size, you can always glue
Add the cleat. I attached a cleat
2. Whi
up thinner pieces. After planing by securing the workpieces in a vise to the inside of the lower rail to
patt
clamp
stock
to its
finished
thickness,
provide a platform for
the bot#/4"xthe
8"- 60"
Cherry
(4.83
Bd. Ft.)
1. Finished
dimensions
#/4"x
8"- 60" Cherryor
(4.83
Bd. Ft.)them vertically to your
pattern
BODY
I cut the legs to final size. At the bench before routing. You might tom. Start by cutting theofcleat
to
router table, I added a 1⁄8" round- also need to clamp supports to the final size, then drill countersunk
2. White area defines
sides to stabilize the router.
holes as shown in detail ‘d,’pattern
above.template (Fru
over to the bottom of the legs.
3. Sp
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
#/4"x
8"60"
Cherry
(4.83
Bd.
Ft.)
3
#/4"x 8"60"
Cherry
(4.83
Bd.
Ft.)
Finally,
attach
the
cleat
using
a litRails. The rails are just ⁄4"-thick
Cut the tenon stock. With the mor72" Fir (Three
@ 3.5it’s
Bd. time
Ft. each)
tle glue
and a few screws.BODY TEXT AND NUMBE
stock. You can start #/4"x
by 8"cutting
tisesboards
done,
to 8"make
the (4.83
#/4"x
60" Cherry
Bd. Ft.)
haped
undover
e bits
ECTION
ALSO NEEDED: One - 48" x 96"sheet !/4" Cherry plywood
3
WoodsmithPlans.com
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
3. Specify scale of patte
W X
Y
END VIEW
Z
F F
GG
MM
NN
T T
UU
SECOND: This
TOP VIEW
How-To:
Loose-Tenon
Joinery
SIDE VIEW
PART NAMES
NOTE: This
THIRD: This
NOTE: See page
11 for more on
building the
router jig
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
a.
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
The thought of drilling
squar#8 x 1!/2"and
Fh woodscrew
ing up the 40 mortises used in the
bench may seem a little dauntSECOND: This
ing at first. But by
a plunge
#8 xusing
2" Fh woodscrew
router and a simple jig to guide it,
THIRD:you’ll
This make short work of them all.
(Shop Notebook on page 11 has the
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
details for building the jig.)
#/8 !/2 %/8 base&/8
The jig is just an auxiliary
plate for your router with two
adjustable fences. These fences trap
the stock in between and keep the
cut centered on the thickness of the
workpiece. By attaching the fence
with carriage bolts and wing nuts,
the fences can be adjusted for different thicknesses of stock.
Using the jig. When you’re ready
to rout the mortises, first install
a spiral upcut bit in the router. I
found that this style of bit works
well for these cuts because it
clears the chips quickly. Then,
using the layout marks on your
workpiece, set the fence positions. Use a piece of scrap the
same thickness as the workpiece
to make test cuts and tweak the
settings until the mortise is perfectly centered. (Once you have
it set, you might want to rout all
the workpieces of that thickness
before moving the fences.)
After centering the bit, the next
step is to set the depth of cut. With
a plunge router, this is simply a
matter of zeroing out the bit and
adjusting the depth stop.
Fence
You’ll need to clamp the workpiece in place, making sure the
clamps won’t interfere with the
!/8"
path of the router. For the legs, this
roundover
bit isn’t a problem. But when it comes
to routing the ends of the rails,
you’ll need to hold them in a vise
and clamp a support saddle to the
workpiece to support the jig.
Finally, rout the mortises using
a few light passes rather than one
deep pass. This will result in a
cleaner cut. The depth stop on your
plunge router makes this easy.
FIRST: Make
plunge cuts
at each end
of mortise
!/4" spiral
upcut bit
Router jig
Waste
#/4
FRONT LEG
FIRST: This is
4
A
SECOND:
Remove waste
between ends
of mortise in
multiple passes 17!/4
1!/4
SIDE SECTION VIEW
Clamp leg
securely to
bench
26!/2
Routing the Leg Mortise. After adjusting the fences on the router jig so the bit is centered on the width of the workpiece, plunge the bit to full depth27#/8
at each end of the layout
marks for the mortise. Then, using a few shallow passes, rout away the waste in between.
Reposition clamp
as needed to
complete the cut
a.
!/4
A
FRONT LEG
A
B
C
D
E
Rout shallow groove
between mortises
F
G H
I
J
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
N
CROSS
SECTION
SIDE
SECTION VIEW
F
END VIEW
S
L M
K
Routing the Groove.
reset the depth of the router bit
P Q the
R SlegT mortises
U V W complete,
X Y Z
N O With
and rout the shallow groove for the end panel. The fences keep TOP
this groove
in line with the
VIEW
AA
BB
DD
E E
F F
CC
GG
mortises, ensuring a perfectly aligned assembly.
HH
I I
J J
KK
L L
MM
NN
OO
P P
QQ
R R
S S
T T
UU
VV
WW
XX
YY
a.Z Z
b.
PART NAMES
Support
saddle
FRONT
RAIL
#/4
B
B
SIDE VIEW
!/4
END
SECTION
VIEW
#/4
B
#/8
1!/4
SIDE
SECTION
VIEW
Spacer
Rail Mortises. Start by clamping the rail vertically in a vise or securing it to the bench
with clamps. Then, clamp a support saddle to the workpiece for the router jig to ride on.
Finally, rout the mortises using the same technique as you did for the legs.
Loose tenon
blank
1&/16
Doublesided
tape
Fence
!/8"
roundover
bit
Stop
block
NOTE: Loose
tenon blank is
1!/4"-wide
Aux.
miter
fence
Loose
tenon
blank
Making Loose Tenons. After milling the stock to thickness and width, round over the
four long edges at the router table. Then move to the table saw and cut the tenons to
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
length using a stop
block and an auxiliary fence on the miter gauge.
WoodsmithPlans.com
T
a.
b.
%/8
FRONT
SECTION
VIEW
1!/4
E
REAR
TOP
RAIL
F
E
REAR
REAR 7#/4
TOP
LEG
RAIL 1!/4
NOTE: This
FIRST: This is
3
F
OVERALL
G
NOTE: This
E
1!/4
G H
I
J
K
C
O
Q R This
S Tis U
P FIRST:
V W X
A
BB
CC
DD
E E
F F
H
I I
J J
KK
L L
M M#8 xN2"
N
SECOND: This
O
P P
QQ
V
WW
XX
1#/4
1!/4
3&/8
1#/4
R R
S S
YY
ZZ
THIRD: This
T
1&/8
I
REAR CENTER
RAIL
42
7#/4
E
26!/2
G
SPACER
J
2
17!/4
REAR
LEG
42!/2
FIRST: This is
SECOND: This
D
GG
THIRD: This
Fh #/8
woodscrew
SIDE VIEW
#/4
#8
x
3"
Fh
woodscrew
T
UU
d.
PART NAMES
NOTE: Align
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
rear cleat with
cleat on front
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
frame
making the
K #8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
BACK
PANEL
(!/4"hardboard)
#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew 11!/4
42
17!/4
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
FRONT
SECTION VIEW
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
26!/2
H
REAR
BOTTOM
RAIL
1!/4
2
27#/8
2
#/8
#/4
H
NOTE: Add !/8"round
over on tops and
bottoms of rear legs
REAR
BOTTOM
RAIL
also need mortises to accommodate a wide center rail. As you can
see in the main drawing above, this
rail requires two mortises. Begin by
laying out the locations and then
rout each one.
Now you can rout the grooves
for the side panels. Note that there’s
The back frame is similar to the
front in construction. But it features
a curved top rail and slats to provide
back support. Below the slatted back
rest, a hardboard panel encloses the
back of the storage bays.
Legs. Once again, you’ll need to
start with the legs. This time, you’ll
27
#/8
Back Frame
also a groove on the inside face of
each leg that will hold the hardboard back panel.
Rails. The rails for the back frame
not only provide structural support, but they also hold both the
lower back panel and the slatted
back rest. You can start by cutting
How-To: Make Spacers & Open Grooves
Push1. Finished dimensions
block of pattern
!/2
Sand a slight
roundover
on edges of blank
t.)
Sandpaper
the Corners. Start with extra-wide
stock for
spacers
and round over the
One
48"
x
96"sheet
!/4" the
Cherry
plywood
t.)
corners with 220-grit sandpaper.
5
WoodsmithPlans.com
Zero-clearance
insert
STANDARD PATTERN
28"
2. White area defines
HEADING FONT
pattern template
(Frutiger 2: view font)
J
Ease
3.5 Bd. Ft. each)
Bd. Ft.)
17!/
27#/8
4#/4
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
NOTE: This
DIMENSIONS:
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
REAR CROSS SECTION
4#/4
CENTER
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
woodscrew
RAIL
L M
END VIEW
BACK
Y Z
CLEAT
1!/4
TOP VIEW
B
J
!/8"
roundover
THIRD: This
PART NAMES
SPACER
16#/8
1%/8
!/8"
roundover
#/8
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
SIDE VIEW
D
!/4"
roundover
2
1!/4
DIMENSIONS:
TOP VIEW
3
F
BACK SLAT
#/8
NOTE: This
#/4
1!/4
CROSS SECTION #8 x 3" Fh woodscrew FIRST: This is
THIRD: This 30
c.
FRONT
SECTION This
SECOND:
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
VIEW
OVERALL
SECOND:
This
NOTE: Rails are made
from #/4"-thick stock.
Spacers and slats are
!/4"-thick stock
42
6"
Aux.
Aux. fence
BODY TEXT AND NUMBERS
Attach stop
miter
block to fence
fence
with double- One square =
1. Finished dimensions sided tape
STANDARD PATTERN
of pattern
3. Specify scale of pattern
4. Waste area
28"
White
area
HEADING
FONT
Rip the Spacers. At the 2.
table
saw,
ripdefines
Cut to Length.
With
an auxiliary fence on the
pattern template
(Frutiger
view
font)block attached to the
the spacer stock to final width. Use a miter
gauge2:and
a stop
6"
push block to make the BODY
cut safely.
rip fence, trim the spacers to final length.
TEXT AND NUMBERS
One square =
WS18222
2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
1. Finished©dimensions
of pattern
3. Specify scale of pattern
STANDARD PATTERN
4. Waste area
the three rails to size. Then it’s back
to the bench to rout the mortises on
the ends. Use the same technique
for these cuts as you did earlier on
#8 x 1!/4" Fh the
woodscrew
front rails.
At this point, you’re ready to cut
the grooves in all three rails. The
in the top rail and on the
#8 x 1#/4" Fhgrooves
woodscrew
center rail hold the back slats and
spacers. The bottom rail and the
groove on the lower edge of the
center rail hold the hardboard back
!/16 !/8 panel.
!/4 #/4 The box below shows how
I
made these cuts at the table saw.
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
Top Rail. With the mortises and
grooves complete, you can turn
8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
your attention to laying out and
8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
cutting the arch on the top rail.
The centerpoint of the arch is 1"
8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
higher than the ends. The easiest
8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
way to lay out the arch is to bend
a flexible strip of wood to match
8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
the profile of the curve while you
trace it onto the workpiece.
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
Next, you can move to the band
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
saw and cut the arch. After sanding
the curve smooth, step over to the
router table to add the roundovers
on the top and bottom edges.
Lower panel. The next step is to cut
the hardboard back panel to size.
It’s worth taking a few minutes at
this point to dry fit the panel in the
rails and legs. This way, you’ll be
assured of a good fit before moving on to the assembly.
Back slats & spacers. A series of
thin back slats separated by short
spacers forms the back rest for
the bench. For both the slats and
the spacers you’ll need to start by
milling some 1⁄4"-thick stock.
Shop Tip: Assemble Back Rest
Starting with a slat at
the centerline, add
spacers to each side and
glue in place
Tape
a.
NOTE: Trim
final spacer
flush with end
of rail
17!/4
26!/2
Thin stock
supports slats
during
27#/8
installation
After preparing the thin stock,
NOTE: Use a square to
you can cut the slats to final size.
verify spacers in top
and center rails are
Then, cut a wide blank for the spacaligned
ers. Ease the edges with sandpaper17!/4
and rip the spacers to final width, as
shown in the box on page 5. Finally,
26!/2
cut the spacers to finished width.
When cutting the spacers to length,
Clamp top
note that the end spacers are longer 27#/8 and center
rails together
than the others. It’s a good idea to
to install
spacers
wait and cut these after dry fitting
the others in the assembly. This way
you can cut them for a perfect fit.
the top rail, clamp it to the center
Assembly. I started the assembly by
marking the centerline on the length rails as shown in the lower illustraof the top and center rails. Using this tion above. This way, you can use
centerpoint, I centered a slat in the it as a template for adding spacers
groove on the top rail and glued a to the center rail. Using a square
spacer on each side and secured it makes this method almost foolwith tape. The tape acts as a clamp proof and guarantees the spacers in
to keep the spacers in position. Now the two rails will match when you
it’s just a matter of using the slat to install the slats.
From here, the entire back frame
position and install the remaining
spacers with glue and tape. When comes together at once. After the
you’ve finished adding spacers to glue on the spacers has dried, you
can add the slats between them
with a little glue in both the top
END VIEW
and center rails. Keep your square
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd.
Ft.) and check the slats as you
handy
Rotating the rail
after the first cut
clamp the assembly.
keeps the groove
Now simply glue the tenons in
centered
all
three rails and add the back
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
H
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd.
Ft.) in the grooves in the lower
panel
ed
and center rails. To complete the
Edge is shaped
ver
with
roundover
assembly, just add glue to the
s
and cove bits
mortises in the legs and clamp it
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
ION
#/4"x
8"60"
Cherry
(4.83
Bd.
allFt.)
together.
CROSS SECTION
#/4"x 8"- 72" Fir (Three boards @ 3.5 Bd. Ft. each)
Featherboard
The
in completing the
#/4"x 8"- 72" Fir (Three boards @ 3.5last
Bd. step
Ft. each)
ALSO NEEDED: One - 48" x 96"sheet !/4" Cherry plywood
back
frame
is
to
add
the !/4"
cleat
on the
ALSO NEEDED: One - 48" x 96"sheet
Cherry
plywood
lower
rail.
Just
like
the
cleat
on
the
Cutting Grooves for the Panels. You can cut the grooves at the table
front frame, drill countersunk holes
saw using a regular blade. Start the first cut a little off-center, as shown
and attach it with glue and screws.
in the inset, then rotate the rail end-for-end and repeat.
6
WoodsmithPlans.com
NOTE: Side rails and cleats are
made from #/4"-thick stock.
The side panel is !/4"
hardboard and the dividers
are #/4" MDF
NOTE: This
ENSIONS:
FIRST: This is
#/16" washer
SECOND: This
1!/4" pocket
screw
#8 x 1!/4"
Fh woodscrew
P Q
R
S
AA
BB
CC
DD
E E
F F
GG
HH
I I
J J
KK
L L
MM
NN
OO
P P
QQ
R R
S S
T T
UU
VV
WW
XX
YY
ZZ
T
U
V W X
Y
Z
TOP VIEW
b.
!!/16
SIDE VIEW
1
PART NAMES
!/4"
wide slot
17!/4 M
L
SIDE CLEAT
15#/4
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
P
12#/4
SIDE RAIL
O
14
N
BOTTOM
c.
2
L
DIVIDER
43
15!/4
O
11!/4
!/4
15#/4
#8 x 1!/4"
Fh woodscrew
SIDE
PANEL
#8 x 1!/4"
Fh woodscrew
Storage
Bays & Seat
d.
a.
Z
M
NN
T
UU
1
1!/4" pocket
screw
A
L
!/2
L
!/2
14#/4
B
A
TOP SECTION VIEW
Bottom. With the side frames
complete, you can turn your attendividers fit into dadoes in the bottion to the bottom. It’s just an MDF
is
CROSS SECTION tom. The dividersFIRST:
are This
attached
panel with dadoes to hold the
to the front and back rails using
dividers. It’s also notched on the
This
END VIEW
pocket hole joinery SECOND:
or the alternate
ends to fit around the legs. You can
method shown in the box below.
start by cutting the bottom to final
TOP VIEW
Side frames join the front and back
size. You’ll then need to install a
THIRD: This
frames and also connect the bottom
dado blade in the table saw and
SIDE VIEW
and the hardwood top. I started by
cut the shallow dadoes to match
making the side frame assemblies.
the thickness of the dividers. To
PART NAMES
complete the bottom, drill holes in
side frames. The side frames conthe dadoes so you can attach the
sist of rails that hold a hardboard
dividers with screws later.
panel. The rails are attached to the
Dividers. The dividers not only
form the storage bays, but they
support the top as well. As you
can see in the drawing above,
you’ll
need
to drill pocket holes
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry
(4.83
Bd. Ft.)
on
the
front
and
back edges to join
Slots allow for
wood movement
them
to
the
rails.
You can install
SIDE VIEW
a.
#/16" washer
the dividers in the dadoes in the
bottom
glue and screws.
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry
(4.83with
Bd. Ft.)
Assembly. Assembling the bench
#/16"
Edge is shaped
isn’t too difficult because you’ve
washer
with roundover
#8 x 1!/4"
and cove bits
already built a few sub-assemblies
Fh woodscrew
#8 x 1!/4"
#8 x 1!/4"
Rh woodscrew
(the (4.83
frontBd.
and
back frames, the side
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry
Ft.)
Rh woodscrew
CROSS SECTION
frames, the bottom, and dividers).
Now you can start putting it all1. Finished
No Pocket Hole Jig? You#/4"x
can8"attach
the dividers
60" Cherry
(4.83 Bd. to
Ft.)the front and back rails using two
ALSO NEEDED: One - 48" x 96"sheet !/4" Cherry p
together by gluing tenons in the of patte
cleats. Simply cut the cleats to fit between the dividers and drill countersunk holes, as
side frames. Then, glue them into 2. White
shown to attach to the rails and top. Fasten the cleats to the dividers with screws.
L M
GG
O
B
The three storage bays are formed
F
N
SIDE VIEW
by making a simpleNOTE:
box This
with two
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
Y
26!/2
FRONT
SECTION
VIEW
27#/8
N
M
building the
P
1!/2
14#/4
O
#8 x DIVIDER
2" Fh woodscrew
M
EDGING
#8 x 1!/4"
x"x#/4"-10
3" Fh woodscrew
Rh woodscrew #8(!/2
!/2")
THIRD: This
Q
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
N O
front and back frames with loose
#8 x 1!/4"
Fh woodscrew
tenons.
After
cutting the rails to
size,
you
can
rout
the mortises and
the grooves that will hold the panel.
#8 xthe
1#/4"
Fh woodscrew
I cut
hardboard
panels to size
and glued them into the grooves.
To attach the hardwood seat, I
x 3" Fhcleats
woodscrew
also#8added
to the upper rails.
After cutting the cleats to final size,
!/16 holes
!/8 !/4for
#/4 the screws. Note
just drill
the front
end
is
slotted
to allow for
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
seasonal wood movement (detail
‘b’). Then fasten the cleats to the
inside edge of the rails.
Shop-Tip: Optional Joinery
patte
7
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83
Bd. Ft.)
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS18222
© 2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
BODY T
NOTE: Seat is notched to
fit around back legs
NOTE: The bench seat is
made from #/4"-thick stock
a.
46!/4
R
BENCH
SEAT
A
12!/4
B
17!/2
C
D
E
N O
P Q
R
AA
BB
CC
F
S
G H
T
U
DD
I
J
K
V W X
E
G
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
Basket
TOP SECTION VIEW
NOTE: This
BENCH
SEAT
!/2
CROSS SECTION
FIRST: This is
END VIEW
SECOND: This
L M
Y
Z
E E
F F
GG
HH
I I
J J
KK
L L
MM
NN
OO
9P
P
QQ
RR
S S
T T
UU
VV
WW
X X 15 Y Y
ZZ
R
2!/4
b.
TOP VIEW
SIDE SECTION VIEW
R
THIRD: This
SIDE VIEW
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
#8 x 1!/4"
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
Rh woodscrew
and washer
!/8"
roundover
PART NAMES
A A
the front and back frames. Place
clamps at each tenon location and
make sure the assembly is square.
When the glue dries, the next step
is to drop the bottom in place on the
cleats and secure it with screws.
Now simply fasten the dividers to
the front and back rails with screws
in the pocket holes you drilled earlier. To complete the assembly, glue
thin strips of edging on the front
edge of both dividers.
The Hardwood seat. The last component you need to make for the
bench is the hardwood seat. It provides a nice decorative contrast
to the bench. I chose oak because
of its strength (as the seat of the
bench) and its great looks.
You’ll probably need to glue up
a few pieces to get the final width
of the seat. After jointing the individual pieces, take care to keep
them aligned during the glueup. I
find it helpful to add clamps and
cauls on the ends to keep the pieces
aligned and minimize any planing
and sanding later. When the glue
Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagram
A Front Legs (2)
13⁄4 x 13⁄4 - 18
3⁄ x 2 - 42
B Front Rails (2)
4
1⁄ x 11⁄ - 36 rgh.
C Loose Tenons (20) 4
4
3⁄ x 3⁄ - 42
D Front/Back Cleats (2)
4
4
E Rear Legs (2)
13⁄4 x 13⁄4 - 30
3⁄ x 3 - 42
F Rear Top Rail (1)
4
3⁄ x 43⁄ - 42
G Rear Center Rail (1) 4
4
3⁄ x 2 - 42
H Rear Bottom Rail (1) 4
1⁄ x 2 - 73⁄
I Back Slats (11)
4
4
1⁄ x 1⁄ x 48 rgh.
J Spacers (24)
4
2
1⁄ Hdbd - 111⁄ x 421⁄
K Back Panel (1)
4
4
2
3⁄ x 2 - 143⁄
L Side Rails (4)
4
4
1⁄ Hdbd - 111⁄ x 151⁄
M Side Panels (2) 4
4
4
3 ⁄ MDF - 153 ⁄ x 43
N Bottom (1)
4
4
3 ⁄ MDF - 123 ⁄ x 153 ⁄
O Dividers (2)
4
4
4
3⁄ x 11⁄ - 143⁄
P Side Cleats (2) 4
2
4
1⁄ x 3 ⁄ - 101⁄
Q Divider Edging (2)
2
4
2
3 ⁄ x 171⁄ - 461⁄
R Bench Seat (1)
4
2
2
• (44) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
• (4) 11⁄4" Pocket Screws
• (2) #8 x 11⁄4" Rh Woodscrews
•(2) 3⁄16" Flat Washers
8
WoodsmithPlans.com
has dried, cut the seat to final size
and set it aside until you’ve finished
painting the bench frame.
Paint First. At this point, it’s a good
idea to paint the bench. This way,
you’ll have easier access to all the
nooks and crannies. After applying
a couple coats, you can attach the
seat using screws through the cleats
on the side frames.
Now you can place the baskets in
the bays and put the bench to use.
It’s sure to provide many years of
convenient storage.
1#/4"x 4"- 72" Poplar (4.0 Bd. Ft.)
E
A
A
E
#/4"x 6"- 96" Poplar (4.0 Bd. Ft.)
B
L
H
D
Q
Q
#/4"x 6"- 96" Poplar (4.0 Bd. Ft.)
B
L
D
G
L
#/4"x 6"- 96" Oak (Two boards @ 4.0 Bd. Ft. each)
F
L
D
R
!/4"x 7!/2"- 48" Poplar (2.5 Sq. Ft.)
I
I
I
I
I
C
J
!/4" - 24"x 48" Hardboard
P
P
R
#/4" - 48"x 48" MDF
I
N
O
O
K
M
M
woodworking technique
gluing up
Large
Panels
Most case projects built from solid
wood start with gluing up and surfacing the wide panels needed to
make the parts. And the success at
this stage can determine how the
project goes from there on out. If
your panels are smooth, flat, and
accurately thicknessed, the rest of
the work gets much easier.
The usual procedure is to glue
up a panel to “rough” thickness
and then surface it to your specs. If
you have a wide planer or a drum
sander in your shop, this is easy to
do. But most of us don’t have this
luxury. And in this case, the work
1
of surfacing a panel after glueup can
be a trial. The tedious handplaning,
belt sanding, or scraping can make
you think about taking up a less
strenuous hobby.
Reverse the order. To get my projects off to a smoother start, I tried
approaching panel glueups from
a different angle. I simply reverse
the order of things. Briefly, the
technique goes like this: I start by
surfacing all the boards to final
thickness. Then I lay them out,
joint the edges, and very carefully
glue up the panel one joint a time.
This “extended” glueup allows
2
Plane First. After cutting the
boards to rough length, plane them
to the final thickness of the panel.
9
Approaching panel glueups in a different
way can save you time and effort and
give you better results.
Joint & Dry Clamp. After laying out the boards and
jointing the edges of the boards, dry clamp the panel
and use a straightedge to check it for flatness.
WoodsmithPlans.com
you to concentrate on getting each
joint perfectly flush, flat, and tight.
Admittedly, the process of gluing
up all the joints takes a little longer,
but you easily recoup time by having to do very little cleanup to the
panel afterward. And the panels
usually turn out flatter, smoother,
and better looking.
First, The boards. I start by choosing
stock for the panel and cutting the
boards to rough width and length.
You want a couple of inches extra
length in the glued up panel and an
extra inch or so in width for final
sizing. It helps to start with the
straightest boards possible. They
don’t have to be perfect, but the
straighter the better.
Surface. Next, I joint one face of
each board and then plane them
to final thickness. Normally,
I would leave the boards a
little thick for “post-glueup”
surfacing, but not here. You
want the thickness to be
dead-on (Figure 1).
Lay out the panel. Once all
the boards are planed, I take
them to the bench. Before I
joint the edges, I do a little
mixing and matching of the pieces.
I have two goals that sometimes
require a compromise. You want to
arrange the boards in the panel to
achieve the best figure and color
match, but you also want the panel
to be flat and straight.
If your boards are all pretty
straight, you can arrange them
strictly for appearance. But more
often, a board or two is slightly
bowed. This can be straightened
by placing the board in the center
of the panel, using a straight board
on either side to counteract the bow.
I always place a straight board
at either edge of the panel, then
any bowed boards go to the inside.
If two bowed boards have to be
placed side by side, reverse the bow
in each piece so it cancels out.
Joint & Dry Clamp. When I’m satisfied with the lineup, I mark the
order of the boards and take them
to the jointer (Figure 1). After jointing each edge, the next step is to
dry clamp the panel to make sure
that the joints are tight, lie perfectly
flat, and are also easy to align (see
Shop Tip below). It pays to check
each joint as well as the entire panel
with a straightedge, as in Figure 2.
You don’t want any humps or dips
at the joints. If you need to rejoint
an edge, do it now, before you start
gluing up the boards.
Glue One Joint. When the panel
passes the dry clamp test, you can
get ready to glue up the first joint.
I like to start at one side and work
my way across the panel.
Figure 3 shows the clamping
arrangement. First I lay out a series
of clamps and adjust them to the
width of the boards. I also prepare
an upper set of clamps to alternate
with the lower set. You’ll need to
have pads on your clamps or cauls
ready to protect the jointed edges.
After spreading glue on one edge,
align the boards on the clamps and
rub them together. There should be
enough glue on the edge to keep the
boards in contact.
End Clamps. Before tightening the
main clamps, I add a small clamp
at each end to keep the two boards
flush. Then I add the upper clamps
and begin to tighten all the clamps.
Remember, you’re only gluing one
joint so don’t overdo it.
Check for flush. While the clamps
are being tightened, I’m feeling the
joint for flush. If you find an offset
along the joint, a dead blow mallet
can be used to force the high side
down. You may have to loosen the
clamps to get the boards to move. If
you find a hump or dip with your
straightedge, adjust the clamps to
change the pressure. Since you’re
only gluing one joint, it’s not a
panic to make these adjustments.
A Short Wait. The next step is to
wait while the glue sets up. This
doesn’t take long. After about 30
minutes, the joint will be strong
enough to loosen the clamps and
add another board. At this point,
I also scraped off the gummy glue
squeezeout (Shop Tip below).
More of the Same. The next joint
goes just like the first. Again, the
key is to make sure the joint is dead
flush and lies flat. And you simply
3
4
repeat the process until you’ve
completed the panel (Figure 4).
Finish Up. I let the panel sit for several hours before the final step.
When the clamps come off, I simply pick up a hand scraper and
spend a few minutes removing any
remaining glue squeezeout and
touching up the joints (main photo,
previous page). A little fine sanding finishes the job.
To me, this technique proves that
a little patience and planning can
sometimes eliminate the need for a
lot of hard work.
Shop Tips: Biscuits & Scraping Soft Glue
<Scrape the joint
before adding
the next board
and the gummy
glue squeezeout will come
off cleanly
and easily.
{ If you think you’re going to have trouble
keeping long or bowed boards aligned,
adding biscuits to the joints can help.
10
WoodsmithPlans.com
Auxiliary base
(!/4"acrylic)
a.
NOTE: Size auxiliary
base to fit router
Drill mounting
holes to fit router
Mortise Jig
To create the mortises for the loose
tenons used on the mudroom bench,
I turned to my plunge router and a
simple shop-made jig, like the one
shown at right.
The jig starts with an auxiliary
base made out of a piece of clear
acrylic (Plexiglas). Two adjustable
hardwood fences are attached to
the base with carriage bolts, washers, and wing nuts. A pair of slots
in the base allows the fences to be
adjusted to match the thickness of
your workpiece.
To use the jig, first attach it to
your router. Then place it over your
workpiece and adjust the fences to
fit against the sides of the workpiece. The router bit should be centered on the thickness of the stock.
The fences guide the router to create a perfectly straight mortise.
1"- dia.
hole
8
TOP
VIEW
Fence
10
!/4"- wide
slot
!/2
1!/4
NOTE: Fences
are made
from #/4"-thick
hardwood
9
7
b.
SECTION VIEW
!/4"
washer
!/4"
wing
nut
Fence
1!/4
!/4" x 2"
carriage
bolt
!/4"-deep
counterbore
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
Edge is shaped
with roundover
and cove bits
CROSS SECTION
11
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
WoodsmithPlans.com
1. Fi
of
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
#/4"x 8"- 60" Cherry (4.83 Bd. Ft.)
2
mail
order
sources
Woodsmith Store
800-444-7527
Benjamin Moore
800-344-0400
benjaminmoore.com
Pier 1 Imports
800-245-4595
pier1.com
12
Project Sources
Organizing an entryway in your
home will be easy with the storage bench project. We purchased
the wicker baskets (9" x 121⁄4" x
15") for the bench at Pier 1 Imports.
The finish on the bench seat
is three coats of lacquer to let
the natural wood show through.
The remainder of the bench is
painted with Benjamin Moore
Paint Corinthian White (OC-111).
WoodsmithPlans.com

mud room storage bench

Transcription

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