FIESTA FOREVER

gourmet entertains
fiesta
forever
When Maricel Presilla, a
restaurateur and major
authority on Latin
cooking, throws a party,
she thinks big. Really big.
And since she believes
that ‘el barbecue’ can
be a key to a culture, we
couldn’t pass up the
chance to spend a day in
her world, with her
food. You’re invited, too.
Recipes by Maricel Presilla
Photographs by Gabriele Stabile
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Maricel Presilla’s “leaping frog” chicken is incomparable: Browned and crisp, it’s steeped in spices, smoke, and the flavor of the grill.
“street food is my inspiration,” says Presilla. “I want to take
everyone on a winding journey through Mexico, through Central
and South America, to show them the artisanal cooking there, the
cooking ordinary people do.” Presilla, who was born in Cuba and
who is a historian by training, is a brilliant, captivating teacher who
effortlessly pulls guests into her orbit, which, on this day, closely
resembles a Mexican market. Musicians are tuning their instruments,
and the leisurely meal is beginning to unfold against the colorful,
hypnotically lush background. “I’m a colonial cook,” she explains,
without apology. “All the Latin countries absorbed a culinary legacy
from medieval Spain. They took a technique like adobo—that is, a
marinade—and transformed it into something of their own.” Before
long, the realization that food was a constant in her studies
led Presilla into the restaurant business, and the scholar-chef now
presides over two sister establishments in Hoboken, New Jersey:
Zafra, which is primarily devoted to Cuban food, and Cucharamama
(“mother spoon”), a magic carpet ride through the cuisines of Chile,
Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Venezuela.
Presilla stops to tweak the velvety red roses spilling out of a jar. “These
are so traditional,” she says. “The art of display, of making everything
beautiful, is ingrained in the food culture of Mexico.” Picking up
a glass of fruity horchata, she adds, “This tells you where you are.” R
From top, left to right: Many hands make light work of peeling mangoes for Presilla’s fruit sticks (“You see them all over Latin America”) and
chopping oranges for sangria (use your favorite recipe). Prickly pears give horchata its color. “I wanted to use green mangoes for their acidity,”
says Presilla. “You know how they never ripen when you want them to? I needed these to stay green, and, of course, they ripened immediately.
But they’re still delicious when sprinkled with chile salt.” Festive drinks, fruits with crunch, and taquitos: You could stop here. But there’s more.
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menu serves 12
Oaxacan almond-rice shake with
prickly pear and cantaloupe
Hibiscus cooler
Fresh fruit sticks with chile salt
grilled beef and pork Taquitos
“leaping frog” chicken
asian cabbage slaw with a
Peruvian Twist
Pan-roasted Shrimp
grilled spring onions
Salvadoran Grilled Corn
grilled fava beans
cheese arepas
slab Bacon Adobo
Guatemalan red-cabbage Relish
argentinean grilled beef short ribs
with red chimichurri
warm quinoa salad with grilled
vegetables and fresh cheese
Catena Alta ’05
Dulce de Leche Hazelnut Flan
wine advice is on page 73.
For more information about the specialty
ingredients in this menu, see kitchen
notebook, page 103, and shopping list,
page 104.
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Slather grilled ears of corn with mustardy mayonnaise and sprinkle them with shredded cheese. Vast quantities will vanish during the meal.
there is another tantalizing drink as well, made from hibiscus,
the same ingredient that gives Red Zinger tea its eye-popping
crimson hue. “In Mexico and Central America,” Presilla says, “it’s
served at weddings. It’s so emblematic, it shocks people when they
find out it’s not a new-world plant. It comes from tropical Asia.”
A long, cool swallow reveals a bright acidity, with a hint of bitterness
and a backnote that’s a bit more difficult to pinpoint. “It has depth,
so it’s never boring,” remarks Presilla. “There’s a muskiness.” She
stares at the drink thoughtfully and adds, “It’s not that innocent.”
More and more food—a tapestry, really, of color and texture—appears
on the tables scattered across the lawn. The taquito platter (actually
a meal in itself) is a constellation of elements that are very simple
and unadorned. Grilled cactus paddles provide a decorative base for
rich, juicy barbecued pork and moist salted beef; glossy refried
black beans; chunky guacamole and a hotter-than-blazes green salsa;
tender sautéed jalapeños and onions; and more grilled cactus
paddles, cut into satiny strips. A wreath of shredded mild, fresh
Oaxacan cheese completes the tableau. It’s time to eat. R
The basic flavor code—the DNA, so to speak—of the Latin kitchen is transmitted via sautéed aromatics such as jalapeños and onions.
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A taquito platter unites pork and beef, chiles and onions, black beans, guacamole, cheese, and cactus paddles in balanced, baroque grandeur.
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Oaxacan almond-rice shake with prickly pear
and cantaloupe
Horchata de Arroz con Almendras, Tunas, y Melón
makes about 8 qt
Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 1 day (includes soaking rice)
A drink based on puréed rice and almonds? The notion may take you
by surprise, and indeed, a classic horchata, which has the consistency
of milk, does taste the tiniest bit like a smooth-as-silk rice pudding
enriched with bits of fruit and nuts (you will need a first-rate blender).
But you will be stunned by how refreshing it is. It’s a great party drink.
3/4 oz dried chiles de árbol (about 40), wiped clean and stemmed
1 small garlic clove
1/2 cup kosher salt or coarse sea salt
1 medium jicama (3/4 lb), peeled and cut into long 1-inchthick sticks
2 large green or firm-ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted, and cut into
long 1-inch-thick sticks
1/2 small seedless watermelon, cut into long 1-inch-thick sticks,
discarding rind
Garnish: lime wedges
3Heat a comal or a dry 12-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron;
1 lb long-grain white rice (21/2 cups)
11 cups water, divided
1 cantaloupe
3 Tbsp whole almonds with skin
3 Tbsp chopped walnuts
2 tsp cinnamon (preferably Ceylon/Mexican)
1 (14-oz) can sweetened condensed milk
1 (12-oz) can evaporated milk
2 lb prickly pears, peeled and chopped (about 31/2 cups)
1/2 cup sugar, or to taste
garnish: coarsely chopped walnuts
3Soak rice in 3 cups water at least 8 hours (and up to 12).
3Cut cantaloupe in half, then scoop out and reserve seeds. Cut off
and discard rind from 1 cantaloupe half and cut fruit into 1/2-inch
pieces. Reserve remaining cantaloupe half for another use.
3Purée rice and soaking water in a blender with nuts, cinnamon,
and cantaloupe seeds until as smooth as possible, 3 to 4 minutes.
Transfer to a container and stir in remaining 8 cups water, milks,
cantaloupe pieces, and prickly pears. Stir in sugar. Serve over ice.
Cooks’ note: Drink, without cantaloupe pieces and prickly pears,
can be made 2 days ahead and chilled. Add fruit before serving.
Hibiscus cooler
Agua de Jamaica
makes about 2 qt
Active time: 10 min Start to finish: 1 day (includes soaking hibiscus)
The fact that there isn’t a drop of alcohol in agua de jamaica
(“hah-MY-cah”) doesn’t make it any less intoxicating. With its crimson
color and cranberry-like flavor, it’s meant for quaffing by the
pitcherful. The quality of the hibiscus is the secret: Avoid buying it if
it’s brittle or faded in color; that means it’s past its prime.
1 (2-oz) package dried hibiscus (also called jamaica; about 1 cup)
7 cups water, divided
1 cup sugar, or to taste
3Soak hibiscus in 3 cups water at least 8 hours (and up to 12).
3Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing firmly on
and then discarding solids. Add sugar and remaining 4 cups water
and stir until sugar has dissolved. Serve over ice.
Cooks’ note: Drink can be made 3 days ahead and chilled.
Fresh fruit sticks with chile salt
not nonstick) over medium heat until hot. Cook chiles and garlic,
tossing with tongs, until chiles are charred in spots, 30 seconds to
1 minute. Pulse in a food processor with salt until well blended.
3Serve jicama and fruit lightly sprinkled with chile salt.
Cooks’ note: Chile salt keeps in an airtight container at room
temperature 1 month.
grilled beef and pork Taquitos
Serves 8 (main course) or 12 (as part of a large meal)
Active time: 2 hr start to finish: 2 days (includes marinating meat)
If you are looking for food that’s casual yet possessed of a no-holdsbarred wow factor, look no further than a taquito platter. Grilled
cactus-paddle “hands” provide a decorative base for two meaty
fillings—salted beef and grilled pork—as well as strips of the paddles,
refried black beans, guacamole, sautéed jalapeños and onions,
salsa, and a scattering of fresh cheese.
Grilled cactus paddles (recipe follows)
Grilled pork in guajillo adobo (page 73)
Mexican-style salted beef (page 73)
Refried black beans (page 73)
Maricel’s guacamole (page 78)
Jalapeño and onion sauté (page 78)
3/4 lb Oaxacan cheese or fresh mozzarella, shredded (about
4 cups)
24 soft corn tortillas
Rancho chile verde salsa (page 78)
Accompaniments: sliced radishes; lime wedges
(medium heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure,” page 104.
3Grill cactus paddles, then pork and beef, according to recipes.
3Arrange cactus-paddle “hands” on a large platter and
decoratively top with grilled meats, cactus-paddle strips, beans,
guacamole, sautéed jalapeños and onion, and cheese.
3Grill tortillas in batches on grill rack, turning occasionally,
until lightly browned in spots but still pliable, about 1 minute per
batch. Transfer as grilled to a cloth-lined basket and keep warm.
3Serve tortillas with platter of fillings and serve salsa on the side.
Cooks’ note: Cactus, pork, beef, and tortillas can be cooked in
batches in a lightly oiled hot 2-burner grill pan over medium heat,
15 to 20 minutes per batch for cactus, 2 minutes for pork and
beef, 1 minute for tortillas.
Grilled cactus paddles
serves 8 to 12
Nopales Asados
active time: 30 min start to finish: 30 min
makes enough for 24 taquitos or serves 12 (side dish)
Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 20 min
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3Prepare grill for direct-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal
(medium-high heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure,” page 104.
3Meanwhile, hold each cactus paddle by the stem with a kitchen
towel and scrape off any thorns with a sharp knife. Rinse and dry
paddles. Brush paddles with oil and grill in 2 batches, covered only
if using a gas grill, turning occasionally, until softened and lightly
charred, 3 to 6 minutes. 3Trim off about 1 inch of hard stems from
8 paddles, then cut paddles crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide strips and
season with salt (preferably coarse). Make 5 lengthwise cuts in
each whole paddle, almost to stem, so paddles resemble “hands.”
Mexican-style salted beef
Tasajo
makes enough for 24 taquitos
Active time: 20 min start to finish: 2 days (includes marinating)
Mexican butchers sell thin, salted, super-long strips of beef just for
tasajo, but you can improvise with top sirloin sliced and salt-cured for
a couple of days. Either way, you’ll discover that the stark simplicity
of the treatment belies the deep, minerally savor of the meat.
2 lb boneless top sirloin, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into
1/8-inch-thick slices
2 Tbsp kosher salt
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Cactus paddles (nopales or nopalitos) are an important vegetable in
Mexico, particularly in the central and west-central parts of the
country. Their flavor—reminiscent of summer’s green beans but with
a hint of acidity—adds freshness and succulence to the taquitos.
3 dried pulla chiles or chiles de árbol, wiped clean, then
stemmed and seeded
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp ground cumin
1/8 tsp ground cloves
8 garlic cloves
3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp cider vinegar
2 lb boneless pork shoulder, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into
1/8-inch-thick slices
3Heat a comal or a dry 12-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron;
not nonstick) over medium heat until hot. Cook chiles in batches,
turning with tongs, until blackened in spots, about 30 seconds.
Transfer to a medium saucepan and cover with water, then simmer
until chiles are softened, about 15 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup
cooking liquid, then drain chiles. Purée chiles in a blender with
reserved liquid, oregano, spices, garlic, oil, vinegar, and 2 tsp
salt until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Force
purée through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding solids.
3Rub marinade all over pork and chill at least 1 day.
3Prepare a grill for direct-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal
(medium-high heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure,” page 104.
3Oil grill rack, then grill pork in batches, covered only if using a gas
grill, turning once, until just cooked through, about 2 minutes
total. Transfer to a cutting board and cut into bite-size pieces.
cooks’ note: Pork can be marinated up to 2 days.
Refried black beans
3Season beef with kosher salt and place in a 4-sided sheet pan in
Pasta de Frijoles Negros
single layers, each layer separated by parchment paper. Cover
tightly with plastic wrap and chill at least 2 days.
3Prepare grill for direct-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal
(medium-high heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure,” page 104.
3Brush both sides of beef with oil. Grill in batches, covered only if
using a gas grill, turning once, until just cooked through, about
2 minutes total. Cut into bite-size pieces.
cooks’ note: Beef can be salted and chilled up to 3 days ahead.
makes enough for 24 taquitos (about 6 cups)
Grilled Pork in Guajillo Adobo
Cecina de Cerdo Enchilada
makes enough for 24 taquitos
3Prepare grill for direct-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal
Botanas de Frutas con Sal de Chile
“There is nothing like a sweet, tart, spicy, crunchy mouthful to wake
the appetite,” says Latin-cooking authority Maricel Presilla. “And this
will take you straight to Mexico.” Botanically speaking, jicama is a
tuber, not a fruit, but its gentle sweetness and snap make it a natural
companion to watermelon and mango in this traditional street snack.
12 cactus paddles (nopales or nopalitos)
2 to 3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 1 day (includes marinating)
Pork shoulder is usually considered a braising cut, but when it’s
marinated, grilled, and sliced thin, it’s tender and juicy. The
chile-based adobo (marinade) relies on the combination of guajillos
and pullas to provide a rich, mellow heat.
15 dried guajillo chiles (13/4 oz), wiped clean, then stemmed,
seeded, and opened flat
Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 3 hr
Seasoned with chiles, onions, and anise-scented dried avocado
leaves, refried black beans help hold together a taquito’s disparate
elements—meat, cheese, cactus paddles, guacamole,
sautéed jalapeños and onions—in a luscious amalgam.
1 lb dried black beans (about 21/4 cups), picked over and rinsed
1 large white onion, chopped, divided
6 garlic cloves, peeled, divided
1/4 oz dried Mexican avocado leaves (about 10 large)
10 dried chiles de árbol, wiped clean and stemmed
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
3Put beans in a large heavy saucepan with enough water to cover by
3 inches. Bring to a boil and boil 2 minutes, then remove from heat
and let stand, covered, 1 hour. 3Drain beans and rinse, then return
to saucepan with cold water to cover by 1 inch. Add two thirds
of onion, 2 garlic cloves, and 1 tsp salt and simmer, covered, until
beans are tender, 1 to 11/4 hours.
recipe continues on page 78.
wine advice
It seems like only yesterday that we were getting acquainted with
Argentinean Malbec, the newest of new-world arrivals, yet here we are
now—bowled over by a plethora of delicious Argentinean Cabernet
Sauvignons made at altitudes rarely associated with vines. The wines
are produced in the remote mountain valleys of Mendoza, and the
combination of high sun and thin soil is the secret to their flavor,
structure, and sheer elegance. Even the simplest Argentinean Cabernet
Sauvignons have a supple balance and engaging fruit. Of those I have
selected for this meal, my favorite (and also the most expensive,
alas) is the Catena Alta ’05 ($57), a wine from the Pirámide, Domingo,
and Adrianna vineyards, some of which are located as much as 4,550
feet above sea level. It is an extraordinary wine: intensely, sweetly ripe,
yet slim, flawless, and long on the palate. Almost as enticing are the
Susana Balbo ’05 ($27), tightly structured but velvety, and the Terrazas
de los Andes Reserva ’05 ($17), with its pure, distinguished Cabernet
Sauvignon on nose and palate. Doña Paula’s Estate ’07 ($16), fermented
in small stainless-steel vats but aged in French oak, is youthfully
fruity and enticingly brisk. Thanks to proportions of Merlot and Cabernet
Franc, the BenMarco ’07 ($20) has an unmistakably Bordeaux style,
structure, and length. The Nieto Senetiner ’06 ($11) is more of a fun wine,
redolent of berries with a touch of French oak vanillin, while the
Pascual Toso ’06 ($13), made in conjunction with Californian Paul Hobbs,
is mild, supple, and, for the price, unexpectedly refined. But perhaps
the biggest surprise of all is the Tilia ’08 ($10), another wine from the
Catena family, which brings us full circle. For such a young bottle,
Tilia has an astonishing range of aroma and flavor; it’s smooth and finegrained, and though its finish is short, it offers a delicious glass of
wine for a very modest price. —Gerald Asher
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Maricel Presilla is as much at home cooking chicken for a crowd as she is in a lecture hall in Seville or harvesting quinoa high in the Andes.
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Marinated slab bacon has a deep, sweet, nuanced twang, and the meat is almost too tender to slice. It’s the simplest thing in the world to make.
3Meanwhile, holding 1 avocado leaf at a time with tongs, char edges
over a flame (see cooks’ note, below), then crumble and transfer to
a blender. 3Heat a comal or a dry small heavy skillet (preferably
cast-iron; not nonstick) over medium heat until hot. Add chiles and
cook, tossing with tongs, until blackened in spots, about 30 seconds.
Add to blender with avocado leaves.
3Reserve 2 cups liquid and drain beans. Add beans with liquid to
blender with chiles in 2 batches, puréeing until smooth.
3Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until
it shimmers. Cook remaining onion and 4 garlic cloves until golden,
7 to 8 minutes. Remove onion and garlic with a slotted spoon
and discard, reserving oil in skillet. Carefully add bean purée (it will
spatter) to skillet and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until
very thick, 7 to 8 minutes. Season with salt.
cooks’ notes: If avocado leaves come in pieces or crumbled, toast
them on a comal or in a dry heavy skillet instead of over a flame.
• Refried beans can be made 3 days ahead and chilled.
maricel’s Guacamole
makes enough for 24 Taquitos (about 4 cups)
Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 15 min
Unlike many guacamoles, this one is extremely straightforward,
even plain. It’s not very hot, and there’s not really very much cilantro.
It’s all about the avocados, in fact—the way guacamole should be
when it’s an ensemble player. Like refried black beans (recipe
precedes), it helps meld the various components of a taquito, but
it also adds a buttery, nutty freshness all its own.
6 ripe 6- to 8-oz avocados, quartered, pitted, and peeled
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1 cup minced white onion
2 to 3 fresh serrano chiles, minced (including seeds)
2 Tbsp fresh lime juice, or to taste
3 Coarsely mash together all ingredients in a bowl with a fork.
Season with salt.
jalapeño and onion sautÉ
Chiles Toreados
makes enough for 24 taquitos
active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min
A fragrant sauté of jalapeños and onion is delicious in the taquitos,
but it would also take a cheeseburger in a whole new direction.
1 large white onion
12 large fresh jalapeños (at least 3 inches long)
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
3 Cut onion into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, then separate into rings.
3 Make 6 long cuts in each chile from tip to 1/4 inch from stem.
3 Cook onion in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat,
stirring occasionally, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add
chiles and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion and chiles are
tender, 15 to 17 minutes. Season with salt.
Cooks’ note: Jalapeño and onion sauté can be made 1 day ahead
and chilled. Reheat before serving.
rancho chile verde salsa
Makes enough for 24 taquitos (about 11/2 cups)
active time: 20 min start to finish: 20 min
Those coals beneath the grill aren’t the only things smoldering.
Presilla stokes the salsa with chiles de árbol, which are one
of her favorite sources of heat. Tomatillos give it body and acidity.
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1 oz dried chiles de árbol (about 60), wiped clean
and stemmed
1 lb fresh tomatillos, husked, rinsed well, and patted dry
2 garlic cloves
3Heat a comal or a dry 12-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron;
not nonstick) over medium heat until hot. Add chiles and cook,
tossing with tongs, until blackened in spots, 30 seconds to
1 minute. Transfer to a blender. 3Add tomatillos to comal and cook,
turning occasionally, until blackened and soft, 18 to 20 minutes.
Add to blender with garlic and 1 tsp salt and purée until smooth.
Cooks’ note: Salsa can be made 4 days ahead and chilled.
“Leaping Frog” Chicken
serves 8 (main course) or 12 (as part of a large meal)
Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 day (includes marinating)
Argentina is renowned for its grilled meats, and that doesn’t mean just
beef. Cooks there will open up and flatten a chicken—to Presilla,
it looks like a leaping frog—so more surface area can get a smoky
char (see Kitchen Notebook, page 102, for more information). Her
seasonings give a bird amazing flavor.
asian cabbage slaw with a Peruvian Twist
grilled spring onions
Serves 12
Cebollines Tiernos a la Parrilla
Active Time: 20 min Start to finish: 20 min
Serves 12 (accompaniment or hors d’oeuvre)
Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 25 min
Miso takes something familiar, like coleslaw, and gives it resonance
without turning it into a dish that’s specifically Asian. Presilla was
inspired by a huge Japanese market near her home, as well as by a
century-old Japanese influence in Peruvian culture and food.
1 (2-lb) Asian or Napa cabbage, thinly sliced (about 8 cups)
1 medium carrot, finely shredded
1 fresh ají amarillo (Peruvian yellow hot chile) or jalapeño,
stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
Miso dressing (recipe follows)
1 Tbsp crumbled Japanese fueru wakame or Korean ottogi
dried seaweed (optional)
3Toss cabbage, carrot, and chile with dressing until coated. Serve
sprinkled with seaweed if desired.
cooks’ note: Slaw can be made 3 hours ahead and chilled.
miso dressing
makes about 11/4 cups
2 chickens (about 31/2 lb each)
16 garlic cloves, smashed
6 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 Tbsp Argentinean ají molido or hot smoked paprika
(pimentón picante)
2 Tbsp dried oregano
2 Tbsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground allspice
2 lemons, each cut into 6 rounds
Discard any visible fat from chickens. Rinse chickens
and pat dry. Put 1 chicken, breast up, on a cutting board. Pull 1 leg
away from body and with a sharp knife cut through skin between
leg and breast until you hit joint (do not cut through joint). With your
fingers behind joint, bend leg back until joint pops. Repeat with
other leg. With kitchen shears, cut through rib bones (starting from
thigh) on both sides of breast up to, but not through, shoulder
joints. Open chicken, skin side up. Press on breastbone to crack
and flatten with heel of your hand. Repeat with second chicken.
Marinate chickens: Purée garlic with 1/4 cup oil, paprika, oregano,
cumin, allspice, 2 Tbsp salt (preferably fine sea salt), and 2 tsp
pepper in a blender or food processor until smooth.
3 Stir together 1 Tbsp marinade and remaining 2 Tbsp oil in a small
bowl and reserve, chilled, for basting.
3 Put chickens in a large 4-sided sheet pan. Using a few lemon
slices as spreaders, rub some of marinade all over chickens, then
stuff lemon slices with remaining marinade under skin of breasts
and thighs. Marinate, chilled, at least 8 hours (and up to 12).
Grill chickens: Prepare grill for indirect-heat cooking over mediumhot charcoal (medium-high heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure,”
page 104.
3 Oil grill rack, then grill chickens directly over coals, turning once
(more if flare-ups occur), until browned, about 5 minutes total. Move
chickens to area of grill with no coals underneath (for gas, turn
off 2 burners if necessary and turn remaining burner on high)
and grill, covered, turning occasionally and basting with reserved
marinade mixture, until chickens are cooked through, 40 to
45 minutes (do not baste during last 5 minutes; discard any leftover
basting sauce). Add more charcoal as necessary. Let stand
10 minutes before cutting into serving pieces.
Cooks’ note: Chickens can be roasted in two 4-sided sheet pans
in upper and lower thirds of a 500°F oven, switching position of pans
halfway through, about 45 minutes total.
Cut chickens:
Inspired by the Catalan calçotada—a feast of spring onions roasted
over a wood fire and eaten with tomatoey romesco sauce—
Presilla serves them with the same savory miso dressing she uses
in her slaw and pan-roasted shrimp (recipes precede).
24 spring onions or negi (Japanese green spring onions, not
scallions; 4 lb)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 Prepare grill for direct-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal
(medium-high heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure,” page 104.
3Trim roots and outer layers from onions. Cut off most of dark
green tops (onions should be 11 to 12 inches long). Toss with oil.
3 Grill onions in batches, covered only if using a gas grill, turning
occasionally, until charred and soft, 4 to 5 minutes per batch. Cut
into 5-inch lengths and sprinkle with salt (preferably fine sea salt).
Cooks’ note: Onions can be cooked in batches in a hot 2-burner
grill pan over medium heat, 5 to 10 minutes per batch.
Active Time: 5 min Start to finish: 5 min
Salvadoran Grilled Corn
You will want to eat this on everything except your breakfast cereal.
Elote Loco
Serves 12
1 cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp white miso
2Tbsp mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine)
1 Tbsp brown-rice vinegar
2 garlic cloves, smashed
1/2 tsp Japanese sansho pepper
1/8 tsp ground cumin
3 Blend all ingredients in a blender or food processor until smooth.
If you are making the pan-roasted shrimp and
grilled spring onions (recipes follow), as well as the slaw (recipe
precedes), double the miso dressing recipe to use it as a dip
for the shrimp and onions.
• Dressing can be made 3 days ahead and chilled.
• For a Web-exclusive recipe using leftover miso, go to gourmet
.com/go/morerecipes.
cooks’ notes:
Pan-roasted Shrimp
Camarones a la Sartén
Serves 12 (hors d’oeuvre) or 6 to 8 (main course)
Active time: 10 min StaRT TO FINISH: 10 MIN
Toss the freshest shrimp you can find in a chile-spiced oil. Pan-roast
them in your heaviest skillet, leaving the shells on to protect them
during cooking. Then turn your guests loose to peel their own and get
fabulously messy. They’ll have a wonderful time.
2 lb large shrimp in shell (preferably head-on)
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp pure chile powder such as Peruvian panca or ají mirasol,
Argentinean ají molido, or cayenne
accompaniment: miso dressing (recipe precedes); grilled spring
onions (recipe follows); lime wedges
3 Pat shrimp dry, then toss with oil, chile powder, and 1 tsp salt
(preferably fine sea salt).
3Heat a 12-inch heavy skillet (not nonstick) over medium-high
heat until hot, then cook shrimp in 2 batches, tossing, until bright
red and beginning to curl, 3 to 5 minutes per batch.
Active Time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min
El Salvador is the smallest of the Central American republics, and it’s
easy to imagine the aroma of corn caramelizing over hot coals
wafting from one end of the country to the other. Spreading the ears
with a very typical, tangy, crazy-loco sauce gives them verve.
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup ketchup (optional)
12 ears corn in husks
11/2 cups coarsely grated queso blanco (51/2 oz) or ParmigianoReggiano
Accompaniments: cayenne; lime wedges; sea salt
3 Prepare grill for indirect-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal
(medium-high heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure,” page 104.
3Stir together mustard, mayonnaise, and ketchup (if using).
3 Pull back husk of each ear of corn, leaving it attached (like a
handle), and tie back with a strip of husk. Discard silk.
3Arrange corn on grill with cobs over coals (or over medium-high
heat for gas) and husks over area with no coals (or over turned-off
burner for gas). Grill, in batches if necessary, covered only if
using a gas grill, turning occasionally, until ears are well-browned
and tender, about 10 minutes. 3Serve corn brushed with
mustard mixture and sprinkled with cheese.
Cooks’ note: Corn can be cooked in a hot 2-burner grill pan over
medium heat, about 15 minutes.
Grilled Fava beans
Habas a la Parrilla
serves 12
active time: 15 min Start to finish: 35 min
Because the pods are soaked in water beforehand, the beans steam
in their jackets until they’re tender inside yet permeated with the
flavor of live fire. Pop them open and eat them like edamame. Favas
are actually an old-world legume, brought to the Andes by the
conquistadors.
recipe continues on page 86.
79
From top, left to right: Presilla fixed you a plate of chicken, Guatemalan red-cabbage relish, a crisp, cheesy arepa, sautéed jalapeños and onions,
and quinoa salad. Squeeze on in, there’s plenty of room. Another relay team is tending to more chickens on the grill, so no need to hold back,
and if you couldn’t get near the corn earlier, now’s your chance. beef short ribs, grilled the way they are in Argentina, are of championship caliber.
Their substantial, deliciously chewy texture brings out the essence of beef. There is plenty of food here for non-red-meat-eaters as well; building
a meal around the pan-roasted shrimp, for instance, is tempting. The power ingredient that gives the sauce its depth and mystery is miso.
Presilla’s seasoning for the “leaping frog” chicken reflects Argentina (the generous amount of oregano is a nod to the huge Italian influence there),
as well as her cumin-saturated Cuban roots. Spring onions are basically green scallions that have been allowed to mature and develop bulbs.
Presilla garnishes the ultra-creamy flan with ripe figs stuffed with dulce de leche, as well as a syrup made from sweet, carob-like algarroba pods.
80
an authentic taquito is a far cry from a typical taco in the United
States. The point is to build flavors and textures by putting a little of
this and a little of that in a corn tortilla. Only seconds off the grill, the
soft flatbread is intensely evocative: Still steaming, it smells earthy
and sweet, like grain, like Mexico itself. Take one bite, then another. R
81
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El barbecue is not an all-or-nothing affair. The chicken, for instance, or the ribs can be the centerpiece of a smaller meal (see page 87 for suggestions).
The night’s still young: Just when things start winding down, Presilla and a family friend take to the dance floor and all bets are off.
84
Generosity of spirit is the hallmark of Latin homeland cooking—and of a terrific party. A little more corn, bacon, and shrimp? Let’s share.
85
31/2 lb fava beans in pods
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt to taste
3Soak favas (in pods) in cold water 15 minutes.
3 Prepare grill for direct-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal
(medium heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure,” page 104.
3Drain favas and pat dry, then toss with oil. Grill favas in batches,
covered only if using a gas grill, turning occasionally, until pods
are tender and charred, about 8 minutes. Serve with coarse salt.
cooks’ note: Favas can be cooked, in batches if necessary, on a
2-burner grill pan over medium heat, 15 to 20 minutes per batch.
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
6Tbsp guava preserves or paste, divided
1/4 cup Oloroso Sherry
3/4 cup grated brown loaf sugar (piloncillo or panela) or
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar, divided
1 (4-lb) piece meaty slab bacon
1/4 cup water
Accompaniment: Guatemalan red-cabbage relish (recipe follows)
1/4 cup beet juice from a can or jar of beets (not pickled; optional)
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
5 Tbsp grated brown loaf sugar (piloncillo or panela) or 1/4 cup
packed dark brown sugar
2 tsp grated orange zest
1/8 tsp ground allspice
1 Tbsp cumin seeds, toasted (see Tips, page 108)
3 Blanch cabbage in a large pot of salted boiling water 2 minutes.
3 Heat a comal or a dry 12-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron;
Drain well in a colander and cool. Transfer to a large bowl and toss
with carrot, onion, jalapeños, and bay leaves.
3Whisk together vinegar, oil, lime juice, beet juice (if using),
cilantro, loaf sugar, zest, allspice, 2 tsp salt, and 1 tsp pepper in a
bowl until sugar and salt have dissolved. Pour over vegetables and
toss well. Let stand at least 20 minutes for flavors to blend.
Discard bay leaves.
3Serve relish sprinkled with cumin seeds.
Cooks’ note: Relish can be made 3 days ahead and chilled. Bring to
room temperature before serving.
with a wooden spoon. Add arepa flour in a slow stream, stirring.
Stir in cheeses, then turn out onto a work surface and knead with
your hands until smooth.
3Heat a 2-burner heavy griddle or a 12- to 14-inch heavy skillet
(not nonstick) over medium-low heat until hot. Meanwhile, divide
dough into 24 equal pieces and roll into balls, then flatten into
2-inch rounds, covering them with a kitchen towel.
3 Oil griddle and cook half of arepas, turning once, until crusty and
golden-brown on both sides, 8 to 10 minutes total. Continue cooking,
turning occasionally, until arepas sound hollow when tapped,
18 to 20 minutes more. Cook remaining arepas in same manner.
Cooks’ noteS: Arepas are best when freshly made.
• Dough can be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered with plastic
wrap. Bring to room temperature before using.
• For a Web-exclusive recipe using leftover arepa flour, go to
gourmet.com/go/morerecipes.
not nonstick) over medium heat until hot. Cook chiles in batches,
turning with tongs, until blackened in spots, 3 to 4 seconds per
batch.
3 Cover chiles with hot water in a bowl and soak until softened,
20 minutes. Drain.
3 Blend chiles with garlic, oil, cumin, oregano, anise seeds,
paprika, orange and lime juices, 2 Tbsp guava preserves, Sherry,
1/2 cup loaf sugar (or 1/3 cup brown sugar), and 1 tsp salt in a
blender until smooth. Force purée through a fine-mesh sieve into
a bowl, discarding solids.
3 Cut bacon, skin side down, through meat but not skin, into
11/2-inch squares (in a crosshatch pattern). Transfer to a small
roasting pan and rub adobo sauce all over. Marinate, skin side
down, chilled, at least 6 hours.
3 Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle.
3Add water to roasting pan with bacon and tightly cover. Braise in
oven until bacon is fork-tender, about 2 hours. Leave oven on.
3Transfer bacon to a plate. Discard fat from pan juices and whisk
in remaining 1/4 cup each of guava preserves and loaf sugar (or
remaining brown sugar). Return bacon to roasting pan and baste
with pan juices, then heat in oven just until top of meat looks
glazed, 20 to 30 minutes.
3 Prepare grill for indirect-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal
(medium-high heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure,” page 104.
3 Oil grill rack, then grill bacon, skin side down, on area of grill with
no coals underneath (for gas, turn off 2 burners if necessary
and turn remaining burner on high), covered, until hot, about
10 minutes.
3 Cut bacon through skin to separate.
Cooks’ notes: Instead of all panca chiles, you can use a mixture of
dried mirasol and panca chiles or substitute ancho and guajillo
chiles.
• Bacon can be braised and glazed 1 day ahead and chilled
(covered once cool). Reheat on grill or in a 350°F oven until hot.
• For a Web-exclusive recipe using leftover guava preserves,
go to gourmet.com/go/morerecipes.
slab Bacon Adobo
Guatemalan red-cabbage Relish
Tocino Entreverado en Adobo
Curtido de Repollo Morado Guatemalteco
red chimichurri
Serves 12 (as part of a large meal)
serves 12
Makes about 2 cups
Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 8 hr (includes marinating)
Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 40 min
active time: 20 min Start to finish: 30 min
Even ardent bacon lovers will be amazed at the gorgeous interplay
of flavors here: salty, smoky, sweet, and sharp. It’s worth searching
out the hard, unrefined brown loaf sugar called either piloncillo or
panela—it has deep, caramel, almost winelike undertones that are
echoed by the panca chiles.
Presilla’s version of a popular Central American table condiment—
delicious piled on top of tamales and enchiladas or eaten with
beef—has a vegetal sweetness and a brightness that cuts the
lushness of marinated slab bacon (recipe precedes). Beet juice
augments the color even more.
The thick herb sauce called chimichurri is the time-honored
accompaniment for beef in Argentina. There, the chile known as
18 dried panca chiles (21/2 oz; see cooks’ note, below), wiped clean
8 large garlic cloves, smashed
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp dried oregano
1/4 tsp anise seeds
1/2 tsp hot smoked paprika (pimentón picante)
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
MENU SERVES 8
OAXACAN ALMOND-RICE SHAKE
HIBISCUS COOLER
FRESH FRUIT STICKS WITH CHILE
SALT
GRILLED BEEF AND PORK
TAQUITOS
Cheese Arepas
Arepas de Queso
makes 24
Active time: 50 min start to finish: 50 min
The Colombian and Venezuelan small fried corn cakes called arepas
have a distinctive roasty-toasty flavor. They’re fantastic topped with a
dollop of almost anything you see on the table.
21/2 cups warm water
2 Tbsp salted butter, melted
1 Tbsp sugar
2 cups white arepa flour
1/4 lb coarsely grated queso blanco
1/4 lb grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
3Stir together water, butter, sugar, and 1 tsp salt in a medium bowl
86
1 (2- to 21/2-lb) red cabbage, cored and finely shredded
1 large carrot, finely shredded
1 large red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 to 2 fresh jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and minced
2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
1 cup red-wine vinegar
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
ají molido would give it a reddish color, but Presilla prefers Spanish
smoked paprika. She likes Pimentón de la Vera from Extremadura
because the quality is superb. “Bad paprika is the kiss of death to food.”
1 large head garlic, minced
1/2 medium onion, finely chopped
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 cup red-wine vinegar
1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro
1 Tbsp hot smoked paprika (pimentón picante)
2 tsp Argentinean ají molido, hot red-pepper flakes, or cayenne
2 tsp ground cumin
3Whisk together all ingredients with 1/2 tsp salt and 1 tsp pepper.
Let stand 10 minutes for flavors to blend.
warm quinoa salad with grilled vegetables and
fresh cheese
Ensalada Tibia de Quinoa con Vegetales a la Parrilla y Queso Blanco
serves 12
argentinean grilled beef short ribs
active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 hr
Tira de Asado
serves 8 (main course) or 12 (as part of a large meal)
Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 45 min
Short ribs braised until they fall off the bone have their place, but
when grilled Argentinean-style (see Kitchen Notebook, page 103),
they are irresistibly chewy, with heightened beefy flavor.
5 lb tira de asado (Argentinean-style short ribs; 11/2- to
21/2-inch-wide strips of short ribs cut across the bones
into long pieces)
1 Tbsp kosher salt
accompaniment: red chimichurri (recipe follows)
3 Prepare grill for indirect-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal
(medium-high heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure,” page 104.
3Season short ribs with kosher salt and 1 tsp pepper and let stand
at room temperature 20 minutes.
3 Oil grill rack, then grill short ribs over coals, covered only if using
a gas grill, turning occasionally, until well browned, 6 to 7 minutes
total. Move ribs to area of grill with no coals underneath (for gas,
turn off 1 burner if necessary, middle one if there are 3) and grill,
covered, turning occasionally, 10 to 12 minutes for medium meat.
Let rest 10 minutes.
Cooks’ note: Short ribs can be cooked in batches in a hot lightly oiled
2-burner grill pan over medium-high heat, 3 to 4 minutes per batch.
Quinoa was highly significant to the Incas, not because it was rare,
but because it grows precisely where corn does not. “It’s a nutritional
tabula rasa,” notes Presilla. “It accepts any kind of seasoning.” And
so she incorporates smoky grilled eggplant (“unctuous, like pork”),
asparagus, and Peruvian olives (similar to Kalamata but meatier and
not as acidic) in a salad that has an extraordinary amount of presence.
By itself, it would be a terrific vegetarian meal.
For quinoa
21/3 cups quinoa (about 15 oz)
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium red onion, finely chopped
2 fresh ajíes amarillos (Peruvian yellow hot chiles) or jalapeños,
stemmed, seeded, and minced
1/2 tsp ground cumin
For Salad
1 lb medium asparagus, trimmed
4 Asian eggplants (11/4 lb total), trimmed and halved lengthwise
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 (12-oz) jar Peruvian black olives or Kalamata olives,
pitted and thinly sliced (11/2 cups)
1/2 lb queso blanco or fresh mozzarella, diced (1/4 inch; 2 cups)
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
11/2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar, or to taste
1 Tbsp Peruvian panca chile powder or 2 tsp hot smoked
paprika (pimentón picante)
Rinse quinoa in 5 changes of water in a bowl, rubbing
grains and letting them settle each time before pouring off
water (if quinoa does not settle, drain in a large fine-mesh sieve
after each rinse).
RECIPE CONTINUES ON page 106.
Cook quinoa:
Want a smaller, simpler menu? try one of these.
MENU SERVES 6 TO 8
PAN-ROASTED SHRIMP
GRILLED SPRING ONIONS
SLAB BACON ADOBO
RED-CABBAGE relish
CHEESE AREPAS
MENU SERVES 8
ARGENTINEAN GRILLED BEEF
SHORT RIBS
RED CHIMICHURRI
SALVADORAN GRILLED CORN
RED-CABBAGE relish
WARM QUINOA SALAD
MENU SERVES 8
“LEAPING FROG” CHICKEN
asian CABBAGE SLAW WITH A
PERUVIAN TWIST
CHEESE AREPAS
SALVADORAN GRILLED CORN
87
fiesta forever
continued from page 87
3 Cook quinoa in a 3- to 4-qt saucepan of
well-salted boiling water 10 minutes. Drain
in sieve and rinse under cold water.
3 Bring about 11/2 inches water to a boil in
same saucepan. Set sieve with quinoa over
saucepan (or transfer quinoa to a
cheesecloth-lined colander and set over
pan); quinoa should not touch water. Cover
with a kitchen towel and lid and fold edges
of towel up over lid (so towel won’t burn).
Steam quinoa until fluffy and dry, 10 to
12 minutes; check water level occasionally
and add boiling water if necessary. Transfer
to a large bowl and cool, stirring occasionally.
3Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over
medium heat until it shimmers, then cook
garlic, stirring, until fragrant, about
40 seconds. Stir in onion and chiles and
cook, stirring occasionally, until onion
is softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add cumin and
cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir into quinoa
and season with salt.
Grill vegetables and make salad: Prepare
grill for direct-heat cooking over medium-hot
charcoal (medium heat for gas); see
“Grilling Procedure,” page 104.
3 Brush vegetables with 2 Tbsp oil. Grill, in
batches if necessary, turning occasionally,
until tender, about 5 minutes for
asparagus, 10 minutes for eggplant.
Transfer as cooked to a cutting board. Cut
asparagus diagonally into 2-inch lengths,
reserving tips for garnish. Cut eggplant into
1-inch pieces. 3Add vegetables to quinoa
with remaining ingredients, including
2 Tbsp oil. Toss and season with salt.
Sprinkle with asparagus tips.
Cooks’ notes: Asparagus and eggplant can
be cooked in batches in a hot 2-burner
grill pan over medium heat, 5 minutes per
batch for asparagus, 10 to 12 minutes
for eggplant.
• Quinoa, without grilled vegetables
and remaining ingredients, can be cooked
1 day ahead and chilled. Bring to room
temperature before serving.
Dulce de Leche Hazelnut Flan
Flan de Dulce de Leche y Avellanas
Serves 8 to 12
ACTIVE TIME: 20 min start to finish: 91/2 HR
The blend of pisco, eggs, and milk has true
synergy. The brandy, which is made in Peru
and Chile, also cuts the suave sweetness of
dulce de leche, turning dessert into
something restorative—just what’s needed
after a lavish Latin American cookout.
10 6 gourmet J U N E 2 0 0 9
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
2 cups whole milk
1 (12-oz) can unsweetened evaporated
milk
1 (14-oz) can sweetened condensed
milk
1 (1-lb) jar dulce de leche
1 Tbsp anise seeds
10 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks (preferably
Ceylon/Mexican)
1 cup hazelnuts (not toasted), pulsed in
a food processor until finely ground
5 large egg yolks
3 whole large eggs
1/4 cup pisco (preferably Peruvian)
1 tsp pure vanilla extract (preferably
Mexican)
1 to 2 Tbsp algarrobina syrup (optional;
see cooks’ note, below)
3 Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in lower
third. 3Bring sugar and water to a boil in
a small heavy saucepan over medium heat,
stirring until sugar has dissolved, then
wash down any sugar crystals from side of
pan with a pastry brush dipped in cold
water. Boil, without stirring, swirling pan
occasionally so caramel colors evenly, until
medium amber. Immediately pour
caramel into a 9- by 5-inch metal loaf pan
and tilt to coat bottom (pan will be hot).
Cool until hardened, 10 to 15 minutes.
3Whisk together milks and dulce de leche in
a heavy medium saucepan. Add anise
seeds, cinnamon sticks, and nuts. Gently
simmer, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes.
Reduce heat to low and cook at a bare
simmer 10 minutes more. Cool slightly.
3Whisk together yolks and whole eggs in a
large bowl. Strain warm milk mixture
through a medium-mesh sieve into a 2-qt
glass measure (ground nuts will go
through), discarding solids, and gently
whisk in eggs. Stir in pisco, vanilla,
algarrobina syrup (if using), and a pinch of
salt and stir gently. Pour over caramel
in loaf pan (it will be full) and bake in a hot
water bath (see Tips, page 108; replenish
water if necessary) until flan is set but
slightly wobbly in center, about 1 hour.
3Transfer loaf pan to a rack and cool flan (it
will continue to set). Chill at least 8 hours.
3 Run a knife around edges of flan to
loosen, then invert onto a rimmed platter.
cooks’ notes: The algarrobina syrup is
used to intensify the color of the flan and
lend a carob-like flavor.
• Flan can be chilled in pan up to 2 days.◊