Decorating - OOAK Artist Emporium

Transcription

Decorating
Foreword
2
Angelina Film/Fantasy Film
wings
3
Angelina and coloring effects
14
Transparency Wings - Prints
Cicada/Dragonfly
20
Iridescent Film on Transparent prints
25
Decorating Vellum wings
30
Assembling your wires
36
Part 4
© J. Serresseque, 2012
Foreword:
When I first began making wings, I used a lot of beads, glitter and everything else I thought would make
them better. I ended up with wings that drooped from the weight of all the things I used.
These wings are from early 2006. It was the second pair of
wings I made. The shape is nice, but I have holographic
glitter, Christmas ornament hangers in addition to the wires,
larger red beads, iris bubble beads and rhinestones. The
color of the film is pretty much covered up.
Most of the embellishments on these wings were covering a
bad glue job. Being new, I had no clue about how to glue
the wires down, so I would squeeze some FabiTac along
each wire. FabriTac is gloopy, stringy adhesive. When too
much is applied, it’s not easy getting it off. You can’t wipe
it up without it leaving a frosted look on the film. That’s
the result of the acetone in the glue.
Aha! Glitter will cover that! If glitter was good, beads
would be cool too. By the time I was done, I noticed that I
had covered all of my wires. From that point forward, I
tried to contain myself. I didn’t always succeed.
About the same time I had started making wings, Christina
Pirnie, another polymer clay doll artist, had started
making what she called Faberge style wings. She was
doing what no one else was doing, using brass filigree,
handmade clay flowers and many other types of unique
beads. She had created OOAK art with each new pair.
She began selling her wings and crowns on eBay and getting upwards of 60.00 to 150.00 for a pair of wings.
Shortly after, she created a CD to show people how to
make her style of wings. In a short while, many people
started to create wings similar to Christina. We have not
seen prices like that for wings anymore, but her style still
continues to influence wing artists today.
Another pioneer in working with polymer clay is Katherine
Dewey. She came up with wing designs for artists to use.
She offers these wing designs as a free download. Her images are very large which produce great clarity in the
printed image.
Many have started out using Katherine’s wing images and
some have developed their own wing designs using those
images.
You can find Katherine’s free wing patterns on her website.
http://www.elvenwork.com/wings.html
© Christina Pirnie
2
Film Wings: You should have most of everything needed to decorate your wings from your wing making
supply lists. Just to recap what you need, I’ll list only those things needed to decorate the wings.
Supplies:
•
Sakura 3D Lacquer or Diamond Glaze
•
FabriTac
•
Glitter—your choice of colors
•
•
Microbeads in at least 2-3 colors - your
choice of colors
Soft Bristle brush
•
Filigree (optional)
•
22g wire - colors of choice
•
Rhinestones (optional)
•
small beads (with a hole, optional)
•
Swarovski Bicone beads (optional)
•
Other embellishments of choice
•
2 pair of pliers (one the locking kind)
•
Blue painters tape
Decorating film wings is really easy and you don’t want to over do it (did I say that?). The film is sparkly
enough on it’s own and too much will make wings look heavy.
First, decide on a theme if your going to use one. If not, the next steps will still have to be followed in order.
When using decorations as in the above image, there is no need to do the center loop like the image below.
Work on each wing section as a separate piece. Do not connect the two sections together until after they are
completely decorated.
With all your wires attached and
your edges shaped, it’s time to do
your glittered top edge and outer
edges.
Get a paper plate and run a line of
Sakura in a somewhat thick line.
Take a second paper plate and pour
out some glitter about the same
length as the glue.
Bend the stem wire so it’s not in the
way and begin to lay the top edge of
the wing into the glue.
3
This will give a nice even coat of glue in the right amount. For the curved upper tip, take a flat brush dipped
in the Sakura and run the flat side on the curve. Try to get the same amount. You don’t want an heavy application because it can run.
Once the edge is coated, do the exact same
method, but this time, dip your edge into the glitter on the paper plate.
For the curved tip, take a pinch of glitter the drop the glitter on the edge.
Make sure both sides have the glitter. Let your top edge dry completely
before doing the outer edge.
TIP: I use an empty salt shaker to keep my wings up while drying. The
holes are the perfect size for wing wires :)
Take another paper plate and pour out a different color of glitter. This is for
the outer edge. For this wing, I’m using Art Glitter Key Lime which is a
transparent color. I do like transparent colors for the outer edge because it
still allows the wing color to come through.
With all the edges finished, its time to apply the rhinestone. Most butterflies
have an “eye” pattern in their wings and this is what we will create.
I’ll be using a rhinestone size called SS30.
That’s about 6mm in size. The size you
use will depend on how large the wings
will be. This wing would work on a doll
about 8-9 inches tall. For the bottom
wing, I’ll be using size SS20. It’s a bit
smaller.
Put a small dot of Sakura where you want
the stone. It should be about the same
size or a bit smaller than the stone.
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Carefully put the stone in the middle of the glue dot. The excess will seep out around the stone making a perfect ring. While this glue is wet, pour some glitter over it and let it dry flat. Don’t be concerned about removing the excess glitter until it’s completely dry.
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With the first side completely dry, shake off the excess glitter over the stone and take some blue painters tape
and gently press the surface of the film to remove as much glitter as possible. This should be done several
times. You should see a nice, uniform ring around the stone.
When you have it fairly clean, turn the wing over and repeat the process. You’ll see the area of the first stone
on the reverse side, put the glue on the same way, add the stone and cover with glitter. Let it dry before removing the excess glitter.
Once your back side glitter is dry, take another piece of blue tape and tack the remaining glitter off the wing.
Only blue painters tape is recommended for this. Any other tape will be too sticky and can tear the film.
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If you don’t want to use glitter on the top edge of the wings or the “eye” on the wing, you have the option of
using micro beads instead. You will not get the same solid coverage, but it will still be a nice look. The outer
edge should still have glitter.
Microbeads should be applied a little differently than a glitter edge. Instead of sticking the edge into a line of
glue, you can just give a light brushing of Sakura glue over the edge and add small amounts of beads.
If you have too much glue, the beads tend to clump together and that doesn’t look good. I like to take my
brush of glue and put a light coat around the center loop and then sprinkle beads. If I see some starting to
clump, I will brush them apart. You have to be careful to not use too much glue.
brush glue along the
outer curve of the
center loop. I go
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch
down the wing, tapering as I get closer to
the stem wire.
Another nice effect is using several different sizes
of microbeads. The image on the right shows the
beads along the top edge as well as black microbeads around the rhinestone. Beads applied to
the top will need a second light coating of Sakura
after the beading has dried. Beads on the edge
can be easily knocked off without the second coat.
You only need to do this to the top support wires.
For this wing, I brushed glue over the rib wires
and sprinked multi sized gold beads. Some of the
large beads roll where I don’t want them so the
brush works to push them back into place.
7
Do the bottom wings the same as you did the tops.
There isn’t much difference in the decorating. I do
recommend that upper and lower be done at the same
time so the decorations remain consistent.
Adding Filigree
Using embellishments like filigree and extra beaded wires can be a lot of fun. You can create themes or
whimsy. Filigree is also a time saver in regards to making the center loops.
As I had mentioned earlier, you have to decide on a theme or decorating idea before starting your wings. The
Filigree goes on in the beginning stages of construction. You might have a doll already made or an idea for
one. Either way, the wings should be planned and not an afterthought.
If you want to have the extra wires to add some beads, that will make the stems a bit wider and if the insertion
holes in the doll are already fit to a regular wire stem, a third wire will not fit.
The basic pattern is the same, but you can see that I’ve used the
heart shaped filigree on both the upper and lower wings. This
replaces the center loop.
First, spray your brass filigree with a coat of the clear lacquer.
Raw brass can start to turn green on the edges when sitting in wet
glue. The tarnish can bleed into the wet glue and it’s not pretty.
Raw brass isn’t very shiny, and if you are handy with tools, you
can polish it with a small buffing wheel with a Dremel tool. Just
be sure to use the vice grips to hold the end of the filigree before
you put the wheel to it. Once it’s polished, give it a wipe with an
alcohol pad or equivelant and once dry, spray both sides with
lacquer. This will keep the brass super shiny and stop any tarnish.
Using FabriTac on the back side of the filigree, carefully place it
on the film just below the first top support wire. The rib wire
construction will be the same from that point on. Run the rib
wires from the edge of the filigree outward.
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If you want to use the extra beading wires, this
can be done without the need to incorporate it
into the wire stem.
Any filigree that has two small openings on the
end will work. The heart filigree works very
nicely for this purpose. Adding the wires should
be the last thing done after the wings have been
decorated.
You could add the wires first, but you’ll be working around the bouncing appendages and risk
bending them out of shape. Decorating will be
more difficult and time consuming.
Start by cutting a long piece of 22g wire. I use 22g because it’s much easier to bend and feed through the
holes. It looks good as well because it makes the beading stand out more. The length can be around 12
inches. It’s better to start with a bit more than less. It can be trimmed once it’s attached to the wing.
Fold the piece of wire in half. You don’t need to make a sharp crease, just bend enough so that it’s easy to
feed through the holes without crimping up.
9
Take a pin and poke a hole through the back of film and through the filigree holes. This will keep the wires
from slipping or uncontrolled movement after the wings are assembled.
Start feeding the wire through the back side. The
wires should be coming out in the front part of the
wing.
When you have about 2 inches of loop remaining,
feed your stem wire into the loop. Do this now because as you get closer to the wing with the loop, it
will be more difficult to feed the stem through and it
will be crimped from the bending. 20g wire is more
rigid and stiffer to bend without the room.
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When you get close to the base of the wing, bend the 22g loop into a tighter curve and straighten out the stem
wire. This loop will be a very secure method of keeping your beading wire in place.
Looking at the back of the wing, your wire should look like this. During the decorating, you can dab a bit of
FabriTac over the wire and add some glitter to conceal the wire.
I don’t use filigree on the back side of the wing since the top wing covers most of it and the back of the wings
are not a high visibility area. You can put filigree on the back and still run the wire through which will produce the same effect.
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This is what the beading wires should look like from the front of the wing. I usually only do the beading wires
on the lower wing. Doing it on the top wires will cause the top to become too heavy and the wings can roll
downward once inserted into the back of the doll.
Creating elaborate embellishments can turn wings into a work of art in themselves. For this pair of wings, I
used a smaller filigree, but it also has two small holes at the base. As long as there is a hole or opening in the
filigree, this method works well.
You’ve seen this image in other parts of the tutorial. As you
can see, you can use other types of brass decorations as well
as small charms or glass leaves that are actually beads.
If you like making small clay flowers, this is a great way to
use them.
This filigree is much smaller than the heart, but can still be
used. Attach the beading wire the exact same way as the
heart. The top holes are a good anchor for adding rhinestones. The bottom end of the filigree is concealed with
microbeads.
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The leaves are attached using FabriTac glue. This has the best hold and dries quickly...it also allows the leaf to
be able to stay in a raised position giving dimension to your design.
Before I glittered and added microbeads, I used my stencil burning tool to create small holes on the edges of the
wings. The stencil burning tool has a finer curved tip
and a lighter handle than a soldering iron, but that a soldering iron would work basically the same way.
The image below is the back side of the wings. I don’t
use anything but a few micro beads and glitter, but you
can decorate the same way as the front or you can do a
similar decoration that doesn’t stick out as much. This
side is not usually viewed and doesn’t require as much
as the front side of the wings.
The beading wires are decorated with both gold beads
and several different colored Swarovski 4mm bicone
beads. The ends of the wires are trimmed so that the
top wire is shorter than the bottom. I use FabriTac on
the ends in a nice thicker application and then dip the
end into glitter. While the FabriTac is still wet, you
can gently pat the glittered glue into shape.
Experimenting is how we learn new things.
This is a great example of controlled use of the soldering iron. Each side has burn outs that are almost exact.
There is enough variation, but the general pattern is
recognizable.
These wings were made by the late Helen Ranieri.
Helen started out with Christina Pirnie’s CD and
Katherine Dewey’s wing prints. She quickly developed the talent for creating her own designs in film.
She was a good friend and a fine wingmaker.
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Coloring Effects
To created special coloring like the wings on
the left and the red/orange ones on page 2,
you will need some alcohol inks, clean up
solution and extender solution and a medium
length flat brush (use an inexpensive craft
brush).
We will only be doing the front side of the
wings. The back of the wings will remain it’s
original color.
(Doing the back side is a personal choice)
Special Note:
If you have ever worked with Halo Gold or any of
the other Halo colors used with ceramics, these
inks can create the same effects.
For this demonstration, I’ll be using Sapphire
Blue, Passion Purple and Lime Green. I also
have a bottle of Claro Extender and a bottle of
Clean Up Solution.
This is a very messy technique, so please protect
anything around your work area that you don’t
want to get ink on. It will clean up, but it’s better
to keep off of good furniture. Wear old, beat up
cloths that you won’t mind messing up. The ink
will wash off your hands.
I start with one drop of Passion Purple in the corner area of the wing and with my brush, spread it out until it
becomes more transparent.
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15
I’ve added two drops of Sapphire Blue in the 3rd and 4th
wing rib sections and am blending towards the purple.
Spread the ink out into all the wing rib sections and do
not go all the way to the ends. Stay in the middle
I’ve got my blue blended in to the purple and now I’ve
put some Extender on my brush and I’m dabbing
lightly on both colors. the Extender will create a ring
effect. Depending on how much Extender is on the
brush, the rings can be large to small.
I had a lot of Extender and the rings blended into each
other. I added a Lime Green dot to each wing section
and start to blend from the edge of the wing towards the
blue part of the wing.
I’ve added more Extender to the brush and start to dab
into the green and blue. This has given me a teal green
coloring which is rather nice looking. Make sure to
cover your top wire with color and go to the tip of the
top wire. You do not need to go all the way to the ends
of the wing pattern. This edge will be melted away.
With all of the rings completed, let the wings set for about 10 minutes. This will dry down some of the thinner
areas of color. I will take my brush, add a bit more Extender and begin to “flick” the brush making very small
spatters on top of the entire wing. This makes smaller rings within rings. It’s almost like a batik pattern.
When I have everything where I want it, I’ll let them dry for about 30 minutes and then I’ll give it a light spray
of clear, hi gloss lacquer. This will seal the color. When that is dry, I will continue on with the process with
3D Lacquer found on page 20 of Part 1 - Basic Butterfly Wing Instructions.
Note:
Use the Clean Up Solution with a paper towel to
remove any ink that splatters on things you didn’t
plan on. The splatter on the film is not an issue
since that will be cut off and discarded.
Your wings should look similar after the spray lacquer is dried.
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After your 3D Lacquer has dried overnight, it’s time to
trim the excess film.
You will also notice the color and iridescent effect is
more intense. The 3D Lacquer makes the colors pop. It
almost resembles dichroic glass.
The addition of the alcohol inks and spray lacquer will
make your wings easier to flame when you use the
lighter on the edges. Please use caution and as soon as
you see the flame, blow it out as you go. Do not dwell
in one area for too long.
Alcohol inks make a very interesting effect, but
instead of flicking to make the rings, you can
also use a brush to make a more controlled look.
You can also dab with paper towels for a more
mottled look.
No matter how you do it, it will come out beautiful.
Alcohol inks are transparent so using multiple
colors creates unique “OOAK” wings.
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In the past, I would have to use two of the darkest
colors of film and sandwich them together to
achieve the dark color for the Goth style wings
(below). This produced a thicker, heavier wing.
Weight can be an issue with wings on smaller
sculptures.
Using the inks has allowed me to keep the darkness and still show more of the original iridescence of the film and the wings are lighter in
The wings above have the Mantilla Black, Passion Purple and Sapphire Blue ink over Butterfly Blue Flash
Angelina Film.
Angelina film does not have a real red color so to get this
coloring, I used Raspberry Sparkle film with the Sangria,
Chili Pepper and Santa Fe Red.
The wings below are Fantasy Film Waterfall
with Rainforest Green, Sapphire Blue and a little
of the Passion Purple on the lower tail extensions.
Make sure your wings are completely dry before
using the flame on the edges. Alcohol Ink is flammable and if you start too soon, the flame will go
fast. Melt the edges quickly and one at a time.
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This is what my old stencil burner looks like. I don’t think you can find them like this anymore.
Jo Ann Fabrics has this model which is Aleene’s 5-1 crafting tool. It has the same tips and is light weight.
They actually have a large assortment of wood burning/soldering iron tools to fit all budgets.
www.joann.com/crafts/wood-crafts/wood-tools/
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Decorating Transparency Wings
These wings are fun and easy to do and you can get really creative. The best prints for transparent acetate film
are Cicada, Dragonfly and any of the solid colored wings. White wings do not do well because there is no
white ink and any white areas will be clear in the print. If that is not an issue, you can always use some white
Pearl Ex to fill in the clear area. They will still be see-through, but better.
Using your paper plate with a line of glue,
dip the wired edge and let the wing follow
the glue line. It will give you an even coating.
I’m using Sakura 3D lacquer for the glue
line. Sakura stays flexible when its dry so
bending and shaping the wire will not cause
the glue to pop off.
The other glues dry too rigid and so they
are not recommended for the top wired
edge.
Your glued edge should look like the image below. I stop my glue just before I get to the end. If you see any
bare areas, you can re dip or use a small brush and spread the glue over the bare area. A re-dip might give you
too much glue. You don’t want that because it will run down and make a difficult mess to clean up.
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With your paper plate and glitter line, dip the top of the glued wire into the glitter. You should have a nice,
evenly covered wire. Again, if you see any bare spots, brush a bit of glue and dip again into the glitter.
Do this process on all four wing sections.
Insert each wing section into the salt shaker top. This keeps them upright and will keep them from accidentally bumping into each other.
There are more than enough holes to allow the wing sections to dry at one time.
21
With the glittered edge all dry, I like to add a couple of rhinestones next. I only use two, leaving the natural
dark spot above and below alone. These two stones will catch the light. If you want to use more, you can.
It’s a personal choice.
I secure the stones with a small dot of Sakura. I won’t be adding any glitter to rim the stone. The stones are
too small and look better when isolated from other shiny decor. I only use rhinestones on the upper wings. I
do both sides of the wings since the top wings are visible on both sides.
It’s time for microbeads. The color of beads is up to you. I prefer using a color within the color of the wing
print. I’m using bronze metallic beads.
Use a coffee filter to catch the beads if you don’t have a bead tray. With a small brush, put a line of glue over a
few of the wing veins and the sprinkle a light amount of beads. Let it dry and then do the other side following
the same pattern as the front.
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Once the wings are completely decorated and have dried overnight, it’s time to assemble. Twist your wires
together using vice grips on the end and either a second pair of pliers or your fingers at the base of the wing.
Normally, I recommend using a second pair of pliers where you see my fingers, but the brown wire is soft and
pliable and I can hold it firmly while hand twisting. Some wire colors are more stiff and you will definitely
need the second pliers to keep the wires at the base of the wing from turning and possibly tearing off from the
wing itself.
Once the wires are twisted and uniform, cut off the ends so that both pair have equal length stems.
I leave the stems a bit longer because who ever gets the wings will have the option of trimming them to fit the
doll. It’s much better to have them long than to have them short and falling out of the doll.
Your finished wings should look like these.
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Dragonfly wings are decorated much the same as Cicada wings with the exception of glittering the top wire
edge. With Dragonfly wings, I don’t have a top wire. The wire is run along a major vein just below the top
edge.
Most of the Dragonfly wings I make look like the ones below. Black and brown glitter go on the dark areas at
the inner base of the wing and black glitter goes on the black areas at the top of the wings. Rhinestones are
applied to both sides and rimmed in either black glitter or black microbeads. Green microbeads have been
placed only near the inner corners on the top two wings and added to the long tails
Green Glitter on the tips
Rhinestones in a contrasting color,
rimmed in black glitter
Green microbeads on the top edges
and along the length of the tails
Black and brown
glitter
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Iridescent Film Transparency wings
This wing is thinner widthwise than a regular size wing so I’ll be using the smaller filigree. I will be using the
two extra beading wires on the bottom wing.
For the top and middle wing segments, go
ahead and glue the filigree to the wing using
FabriTac glue. Put a small dab at both ends.
You don’t want so much that it oozes out of
the holes. If it does, wipe it clean as soon as
you can.
Cut two pieces of 22g wire about 12 - 14
inches in length and fold both over at the
middle.
These wires will not be connected the same way as was
done for the Angelina Film wings. Transparency film
is too thick and tough to make a nice hole with a pin.
The texturing adds to the thickness and poking it from
behind could make it pop off at that particular place.
These wires will be attached to the filigree alone.
I used the two opening just above the two very bottom
openings. I plan to feed the wires back through the two
bottom loops.
This will keep the wire from flopping around or shifting after it’s attached to the wing. This is another reason to use 22g wire. A thicker wire won’t make
the tight bend.
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You will need a couple of heavy duty clips or clamps. Put some FabriTac on the back side and clamp the piece
to the wing. Let this dry overnight to make sure it doesn’t lift off during the rest of the construction.
With all your filigree glued and dried, glitter the top edges as shown earlier. First the edge in the glue and
then the edge in the glitter. For the curved area of the wing, use a flat brush loaded with some Sakura and
using the flat side, run the curved edge. Glitter the curve by grabbing a pinch of glitter and sprinkling it on the
curved area. You can use the brush and go over the bottom ruffle of the wing and use glitter there as well.
This will create a nice outline. The bottom edge only needs a hint of glitter.
Add rhinestones to the three filigree holes and let it dry for about 20 - 30 minutes.
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I’ve added microbeads along the thicker wing veins and the tips of each wing. Do this on both sides of the
wings.
When assembled, these wings will be very close to each other. I did not use filigree on the back sides since
they would be hidden. Microbeads and glitter will provide enough decoration on the back side.
You can see how little the
amount of glitter is used on
the edge, but this small
amount will add sparkle
without being gaudy looking.
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Trim the beading wires so that the top is shorter
than the bottom.
For these wings, I’m using one bicone bead sandwiched by two gold beads and the bottom wire has
3 bicone beads with two gold beads.
To secure the first gold bead, thread the bead on
and let it go past where you want it to be positioned. Add a small dab of FabriTac where you
want the first bead and bring the bead back down
the wire until it’s in the glue.
Put another small dab of FabriTac behind the bicone bead and thread the second gold bead to the bicone.
When the FabriTac sets up, it makes a very secure bond.
Repeat the steps for the bottom wire, only add a few more beads if you like or you can keep the same design of
one bicone, but make it larger than the top. A solitary 6mm bicone would look very nice on these wings also.
Don’t use gold plated plastic beads with FabriTac. The glue will eat the plastic and dissolve the gold color.
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Dip your wire tips into the bottle tip of the FabriTac
and get enough on that it looks like a candlewax
drip.
Once you have a nice amount of the glue, lay the
end of the wire in the glitter on the paper plate.
With your finger, push glitter over the top. Lift the
wing and make sure the end is covered with glitter.
If you see any bare spots, lay it in the glitter again.
As the FabriTac dries, you can gently shape it into a
more uniform shape.
Cover this much of the end
with FabriTac glue
These are the finished wings. You can’t see the iridescent color in the photograph, but when the light hits
these wings, they glow with hot blue and green sparkle. The texture magnifies the iridescent effect.
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Decorating Vellum Wings
Decorating Vellum is almost the same as the transparencies, however, these wings are softer looking and look
best when they don’t have too much added. Vellum can ripple if too much liquid glue is applied.
Start the same as the other wings mentioned, with Sakura glue on a paper plate. Dip the top wire in the glue
and then in the glitter.
Your top edge should have a uniform coating of glitter.
Do this on all four wing segments. Let them dry
completely before going further.
When they are dry, it’s time to do the edging and
accent colored areas.
For this next step, I recommend using the Glazing
Medium instead of Sakura. The Glazing Medium
will dry with the same finish as the wing. Sakura
will dry very glossy and that will look very odd,
especially if you get some where you didn’t plan it.
The glitter will not lose any of it’s shine and I’ve found that the
glitter will show up a little better when use over the more satiny
background.
Take your flat brush and load some Glazing Medium. Run the flat
part of the brush along the edge of the wing. You should have a
thin, uniform glue edge on both sides. Fill in any gap between the
top edge where the wire ends and the top of the outer edge
Dip the edge into the glitter.
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I like playing with glitter colors so the bottom of this wing has mostly brown glitter blending in to the black.
I’ve carried the glittering up and in from the lower edge. Do this on both sides and let dry completely
I’ll be using filigree again, but this time, I’m using a filigree butterfly that will bend so that both the front and
back are covered. This will keep the wings from moving independently from each other, but what it does show
how to decorate those wing prints that are not separated into four segments.
Brass is a soft metal, but bending in such an extreme crease can cause the filigree to snap at the bend. I’m using my jewelry pliers which have rounded prongs. I firmly hold the filigree in the prongs and slowly bend the
brass with my fingers until the open ends are wide enough for the wing to slide in. The wire stems will come
out from the center hole in the filigree.
31
If you choose to add the beading wires, feed them through one side, from the inside of the filigree out.
Insert the wing stem wires so that they pass through
the beading wire loop inside the filigree. Pull the wing
into the filigree and then pull the beading wires snug.
This will anchor the beading wire and stop any outward movement of slipping.
There should still be a gap between the wing and the
filigree. Carefully squeeze some FabriTac in between
and then with your pliers, clamp down on the front and
back of the filigree and press the filigree until it gets
closer to the wings inside.
Some FabriTac may ooze out. Wipe it off before it
dries.
When the glue on the filigree has dried, take your blue
painters tape and clean off any of the loose glitter that
might still be on the wings.
This will clean the area for the microbeads.
32
With a smaller brush, load up some of the Glazing Medium and brush from the filigree outward. Go as far as
you want the microbeads to stop.
Sprinkle the microbeads closer to the filigree and any excess will stick to the surrounding area. Again, you
don’t want a heavy application of Glazing Medium because the tiny beads will clump. They look much better
if they appear random.
Any beads that fall into the filigree will come out once you turn the wing over and tap it. This is why I said to
let the FabriTac dry completely before doing the microbead step.
To fill in the gap between the two filigree
sides, squeeze some FabriTac over the edge of
the filigree. The FabriTac should not run, but
will fill the gap nicely.
Pour some black microbeads onto the FabriTac and press in with your finger. If you need
more beads, pour them on again and press
again.
I added some small gold beads at the
base of the wires where they come
out of the filigree. I think it makes a
nice finished look.
33
You can use any type of bead or combination of
beads for the wires. On this pair, I used cone beads.
This bead has been discontinued by Swarovski, but
they have come up with a newer version of the
cone bead.
I used a gold glitter at the ends of the beads to offset all the black in the wing and to tie in with the
filigree.
Below are the finished wings
To add a beading wire without using filigree is also a nice look. You should only do one beading wire as this
wire must be twisted along with the stems to keep it secure.
After your wing glittering is finished and
your ready to assemble your wings, cut two
equal lengths of wire. They should be at
least 8 - 10 inches in length...remember,
they can be trimmed later if needed.
Some of this wire will be used in the wire
stem, so you want to make sure you have
enough extension from the inner base of the
wing past the outer edge for a nice elegant
look.
Use 22g for the beading wire and make sure
its in the middle of the other two when you
clamp it with the vise grips
With your three wire ends in your vise
grips, use a second pliers to grip the wires at
the base of the wing and slowly hand twist
the vise grips.
34
You can begin to decorate the beading wire. Since these wings are blue and black, I’m using silver beads with
a light Sapphire bicone in between.
For the bottom part of the wire, I’ve added a silver bead first, followed by another bicone. These beads will
be close to where you see them now.
Add more FabriTac to the bottom of the wire and dip into some black glitter.
When you have the size and look you like, let the bicone and the silver bead come to the top of the black glitter and glue these in place.
Your finished wings should look like this.
35
Putting your wings together
Once all your sections are decorated and dry, it’s time to attach the wires together. Different wires bend differently. Some are more stiff than others. First try to determine if your wires will be easy to twist. Cut two pieces
of wire off your roll. Clamp your visegrips on to the two ends. Take a regular pliers and hold tightly to the other
pair of ends. Turn the visegrips and watch how the wires are twisting together. Don’t go too tight with the twist.
The tension in the wire will build up and the wires can break off when the finished wings are being posed on the
doll.
If the wires twist easily, you can follow the steps illustrated by the first two images. If the wire is stiff and doesn’t twist easily, proceed using the steps of the bottom images.
base of wings would
be here between
the pliers.
If your wires are stiff, one of the wires will begin to turn on the opposite side of the regular pliers. This
action can tear the wire off the wing so I recommend holding the wire at the base of the wing with your
fingers and with your other hand, make a few twists close to the base of the wing. Once you have a few
twists, take your pliers and visegrips and continue to twist the wires together as shown above.
If you see that the wires still want to turn, even with a firm grip on the pliers, remove the regular pliers and
hold the two wings in your fingers firmly and slowly turn the visegrips until you get a uniform twist.
Base of wings would
be here between
your fingers.
36
In conclusion, I would like to reemphasize that planning wings is an important part of making an Art Doll.
Take some extra wire and make yourself a couple of wire stems to use as a template for fitting the wings.
Make one with three wires twisted together made up of two 20g and one 22g pieces. Make one with just two
20g pieces. Make another with two 18g pieces for those larger wings. The point is, make several so that when
you make your doll, you can use the stem template to set the wing insertion holes before baking and then your
wings will fit without having to drill the doll after baking.
If you plan on making wings to sell to other doll artists,
remember to make your stem wires longer than needed.
Let the artist trim the wires according to their doll.
Many wing makers make their wires too short and they
tend to create a loop in the stem wire. This will give an
unpredictable fit since the loop is flat and wider than the
stem, it can make an insertion hole wider than the stem
and the wings can be loose. In addition, inserting it into
a baked hole that doesn’t have the same configuration
can result in the artist having to drill out the hole to a
large size.
Happy winging!
Another decorating idea is making a fairy crown to go with
your wings.
I learned how to make these fairy crowns by taking Jean Bernard’s Fairy Crown online class. This class is
extremely reasonable and its a lot of fun.
http://www.jeanbernardart.com/OnlineClasses.html
Copyright 2012 by J. Serresseque. All rights reserved. The material, including images in this tutorial may not be duplicated, sold or redistributed in whole or in part without written permission of the author.
This tutorial is for the individual’s personal use only. Any wings made from the use of this tutorial are the property of the
artist and they may do as they wish with their finished wings.
37

Decorating - OOAK Artist Emporium

Transcription

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