WFN_47_-nov-2013-dra..

Web Fragrant Newsletter
The Independent Fragrant NL
WFN - 47 Nov 13
Content
Perfumers
Isabelle Maillebiau-Gueorguiev (IPG Fragrances)
Sandrine Malin (IFF)
Delphine Jelk (Drom)
Fragrant Events
Dear Reader,
Jean Patou Forever
60 years, Youth Dew
Enjoy your latest Web Fragrant Newsletter 47!
WFN is free, independent, co-signed by people,
bimonthly, written in English, for professionals
only... And still a pleasure!
Next WFN 48 will be released by end of January
2014.
See you soon,
Selection of Fragrances
[toPNotes] Nathalie Pichard
Scent on Canvas
Neela Vermeire
Etat Libre d’Orange
Ermenegildo Zegna
JUL ET MAD
NICOLAI Parfumeur Créateur
Memo
Nina Ricci
Fragrance Training Specialist & Evaluation
Fragrant Event
Paris, Grand Palais November 2013
The Miss Dior exhibition showcased the
timeless, modern character of this
fragrance. The exhibition traces a dialogue
between Art and Dior, eternally to artists.
www.dior.com
Fifteen female artists have been invited to freely interpret the
signature codes of Miss Dior
Thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading
and Sylvaine Delacourte (Guerlain) for blogging (espritdeparfum)
1
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn] N°47 Nov 13
toPNotes
■ Fragrant People
Sandrine Malin – Senior Perfumer Beauty Care, IFF
You wash your hair with her fragrance but you don’t know it. Beauty care is Sandrine Malin’s
day-to-day. As a senior perfumer, she fragrances the world’s hair and body products for the
majors of the industry. She has been perfumer for years at IFF’s Beauty Care after having begun
at Bush Boake Allen and Robertet. This native of South of France is now a real expert globally
and more specifically about Asian and Brazil markets. When she’s asked about Chinese s’
shampoo preferences, Sandrine says that the shampoo market has been evolving very quickly
from floral fruity to floriental with a touch of sweet gourmand notes. Sweetness becomes more
and more popular via soft drinks and candy, so the level of acceptance is constantly increasing.
In Brazil, nourishing hair is so important that women want always the nourishing smell as well.
The difficulty is to create new smell around nourishment with the cleanness aspect of the
shampoo.
Everywhere the cleanliness attribute is the strongest point in shampoo. “Create a shampoo is very different, it’s
between fine fragrance and a fresh laundry smell, pleasure and cleanliness, feminine and for all family, fresh and
substantive on hair! It should smell good in the air and be efficient on hair!”. You will no longer wash your hair in the
same way, for sure.
Isabelle Maillebiau-Gueorguiev – Perfumer and Founder, IPG Fragrances
Passionate, energetic, fun, Isabelle is all-in-one. Almost born in a rose, but risen in a big family of
perfumers, Isabelle Maillebiau Gueorguiev couldn’t have been anything other than a perfumer.
Determined with a strong personality, Isabelle began her career at Givaudan just after her
fragrances classes at prestigious Givaudan School of Perfumery.
After 6 years within Givaudan in toiletries, and 8 at Drom Fragrances, it was time to fly by
herself.
It’s in Switzerland where she actually lives that she
founded her own company IPG Fragrances, a
fragrance house dedicated to niche brands, home
scents and sensorial analysis for brands, spa or
luxury hotels.
She and her team have developed a new brand
called DiMani specialised in scented candles, gifts
sets.
For more info:http://dimani.com
ipg-fragrances.com
Delphine Jelk – Perfumer Creator, Drom
Passion motivates her. Delphine Jelk first began her studies in fashion in the prestigious French
fashion school ESMOD. After Firmenich, Delphine joined Drom where she was able to express
herself, freely. The first fragrance for sexy French lingerie, Aubade, and La Petite Robe Noire by
Guerlain were hers (in its first limited edition version, coworked with Sylvaine Delacourte). A
huge success which gave birth to a new re-launch. She recently composed with Corinne Cachen
and Alexandra Monet new candles for The Different Company, and latest Victoria’s secret
Midnight Dare Raspberry & Sandalwood. She likes to work on sexy notes (rose, oriental notes)
and make them addictive. It’s her femininity which is translated into fragrances.
2
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn] N°47 Nov 13
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Events
Jean Patou - Forever (1924-2014)
In the 20’s and 30’s, Jean Patou was one of the most talented fashion designer. He dressed
many elegant women and had a great success for his creations (pyjamas, little black dress or
swimsuit) in France and the US. The fragrance ‘Joy’ marked perfumery in 1930 with its
famous claim ‘the costliest perfume in the world’ (composed by H. Alméras with a very high
concentration of may roses and jasmine oils).Today, as the brand approaches 100, it was
time for its owner (Designer Parfums) to pay tribute to his heritage and traditional Haute
Perfumery and let remind us this exceptional designer.
by launching a collection of 3 iconic
fragrances: Chaldée, Eau de Patou
and Patou pour Homme…
Collection Héritage
…and a new fragrance called Joy Forever, created by perfumer in house,
Thomas Fontaine. The juice respects Jean Patou’s heritage of using highly
qualitative natural raw materials. Modern, sparkling and feminine, Joy
Forever is a rich floral bouquet with a fruity green top (peach/galbanum)
sustained by an oriental base. Bottled in Joy’s iconic flask. Available in a
selection of perfumeries and the boutique Jean Patou rue de Castiglione.
At last, to celebrate the brand’s centenary in 2014, a book has been written
about Jean Patou’s life and his remarkable lifestyle in fashion and perfumes,
as a pioneer of modernity. ‘Jean Patou, Une vie sur Mesure’ by
Emmanuelle Polle, who spent 2 years researching in Patou’s archives, is a
book illustrated by wonderful pictures. Available at Flammarion Editions.
Joy Yesterday
Joy Today
Joy Forever
www.jeanpatou.com
60 years Youth Dew – Estée Lauder
In 1953, Mrs Estée Lauder invented the first 2-in-1 revolutionary
product: both a bath oil and a fragrance. A huge success. That was
Youth Dew. The long lasting power of a fragrance in one. It was a new
way for American women to access fragrance at that time.
Mrs Lauder imagined a bottle (not a spray) which allowed women to
open it easily and test it in the department stores.
Know the secret of the bath
60 years later, the same recognizable colored scent (rose, ylang, jasmin,
salycilates, spices, woods, amber and incense, has given birth to the 1st
modern oriental after Shalimar, composed by IFF’s Josephine
Catapano). It celebrates its youth in a new limited edition bottle
decorated with a special ribbon incrusted with crystals. Happy birthday!
3
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn] N°47 Nov 13
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Brands
La Fin du Monde – Etat Libre d’Orange
Don’t laugh, it is serious. ELO imagines what the end of the world could smell
like. An explosive cocktail created by a new perfumer to follow at Givaudan,
Quentin Bisch.
For more: www.etatlibredorange.com/confessions
Rose Oud & Amber Oud Collection – NICOLAI, Parfumeur-Créateur
Patricia de Nicolai offers two fragrances in a her new Oud Collection this month. Rose Oud
and Amber Oud. The fragrances are said to have been created in the pure tradition and
elegance – we trust – to enrich her collection of opulent and deep fragrances. Oud offers a
multifacetted personality (smoky wood, leather, resins, spices and animalic undertones) that
inspired Patricia. She used the best quality of costus, amber (accord of vanilla and cistus),
patchouli, cedarwood, castoreum, nagarmotha wood, and tonka beans to compose her
creations. The collection is available in boutiques and e-shop www.pnicolai.com
Italian Leather – Memo
Clara and John Molloy, the
founders of Memo, met on a
chair lift, between sky and
earth, between two worlds, in
that weightless space that
brings out one’s daring side
and broadens horizons.
Since 2007, the French brand Memo (Fragrance is a
souvenir, Memo is its memory) has been growing on the
market, invitating us to discover fragrances inspired by
many countries where founders were travelling. Jannat,
Manoa, Luxor Oud, Labibella, Moon Fever, Siwa are the
mysterious names of the fragrances, which have been
composed by Aliénor Massenet, the perfumer of the brand
(IFF).
Italian Leather, the latest opus, recounts the Dolce Vita,
Siesta, the Italian way of life... The journey is the
destination ! An aromatic and leather fragrance with a top
note of green tomato leaf twisted to the sophisticated
beauty of leather, myrrh and vanilla absolute.
Essenze – Ermenegildo Zegna
In fashion since 1910. A Family group specialized in masculine fashion.
Zegna introduces a unique collection of exclusive scents woven around Calabrian
Bergmot, harvested in Zegna’s orchard as the main ingredient of this collection of 5
fragrances, composed by Pierre Négrin, Frank Voelkl, Harry Fremont & Jacques
Cavallier.
The collection will be available in Jan 2014 at a selection of points of sale.
Italian
Bergamot,
Sicilian
Mandarin, Javanese Patchouli,
Indonesian Oud, Florentine Iris
Stilettos on Lex, Terrasse à St Germain, Amour de Palazzo – JUL et MAD
JUL ET MAD is a lovely brand founded by a young Parisian couple Jul and Madelina. The
brand is said to be ‘without compromise’. They launched a special offer Love Dose,
composed of Extrait de Parfum of each fragrance created by Dorothée Piot (Robertet). Love
Dose gives the possibility to discover and test the JUL ET MAD perfumes for a long period of
time, ensuring the right choice of the favorite scent. Real collector’s piece, the precious
miniature, sold individually, is the reflection of the luxurious and elegant 50ml (1.7 FL.OZ.)
perfume bottle. For more info: www.juletmad.com and available at Jovoy Paris.
Love Dose 5 ml/ 0.17 fl. Oz.
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn] N°47 Nov 13
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Launches
Scent on Canvas – Beatriz Aguilar
When painting meets perfumers!
Beatriz Aguilar is behind this original new Spanish niche brand. Native of both Barcelona and France, Beatriz worked for
Dragoco and Eurofragrances in Spain as sales manager and evaluation until she decided to create her own brand, called
Scent on Canvas. The brand features a collection of 5 fragrances. The concept is very original and artistic as a unique
sensorial experience. Beatriz asked talented perfumers and painters (María Torrontegui, María Coluccelli, Mariona
Esteba, Jordi Trullas y Tano Pisano) to work together. Each painting is exclusive and represents the evocation of the juice.
The painting is then printed onto the box. The fragrances are Rose Opera (Jordi Fernandez, rose and saffron), Ocre Jaune
(Shyamala Maisondieu, white truffle and woods), Noir de Mars (Jordi Fernandez, orient and oud), Brun Sicilien (a
leather signed Alexandra Kosinski) and Blanc de Paris (signed by Beatriz herself, orris and white flowers).
For more info and shopping: in Spain, the brand is retailed by 5th Essence Square and www.scentoncanvas.com.
Contact: [email protected]
La Tentation de Nina – Nina Ricci
The collaborative Ladurée macaron
and Nina Ricci fragrance, “La
Tentation de Nina”
Nina Ricci continues its Nina’s saga. As in Snow-White’s novel, Nina invites us into a
delightful modern fairytale. After the appeal of the apple, now comes the Macaron !
A temptation that Nina could not resist. A magic pastry in a fragrance.
For the creation of this magic scent, two kings of alchemy and senses, Olivier Cresp
(Firmenich) and famous macaron maker Ladurée’s Vincent Lemains have worked
together. A four handed creation to come up with a fragrance-macaron*and 6
months to complete the work: the result? A fresh floral and fruity fragrance
flavoured with raspberry, Bulgarian rose, freshened by grapefruit and bergamot,
softened with sandalwood, vanilla and musk. To be discovered in Jan.
*Macaron natureprint. NaturePrint is Firmenich’s own variant of what is more commonly known as headspace technology: the technique
whereby the scent within and around an object is chemically analysed, broken down into its constituent molecules and then re-engineered
in a lab.
Ashoka, Imperial Buddhist – Neela Vermeire Creations
Her India-inspired fragrances,
Neela was delighted to work with
the famous French perfumer and
admirer of India, Bertrand
Duchaufour.
Pierre Dinand designed the
bottle. There are 24 ridges on the
flacon just like the chakra
inspired logo.
Osmanthus, lotus, rose,
jasmin sambac, cassie,
ylang, vanilla, fig milk,
incense, birch, ...
Discover India with Neela Vermeire’s fragrances and
history.
Inspired by a legendary ruler, Neela Vermeire Créations’
new release Ashoka is a tribute to an emperor who was
conquered by his own compassion at the moment his
victory was assured.
He converted to Buddhism and devoted the rest of his
life to spreading Buddha’s teachings, to truth, to justice
and to compassion for all living creatures beneath the
sun.
His own evolution from ruthless conqueror to
benevolent emperor is reflected in Ashoka’s journey
from the fierce opening to a softly floral heart & the
gentle embrace of its richly complex of drydown.
For more info: www.neelavermeire.com
Available at Jovoy Paris.
5