WFN_48_-Fev-2014-06

Web Fragrant Newsletter
The Independent Fragrant NL
Content
WFN 48 _Fev 14
Perfumers & Co
Sonia Constant (Givaudan)
Jean Jacques (Takasago)
USA Olfactory Trends by NPD
Fragrant Sagas
Rochas
Thierry Mugler
Dear Reader,
Enjoy your latest Web Fragrant Newsletter 48!
WFN is free, independent, co-signed by people,
bimonthly, written in English, for professionals
only... And still a pleasure!
New boutiques
Atelier Cologne Paris
Ex Nihilo Paris
Selection of Fragrances
See you soon, in April 2014
[toPNotes] Nathalie Pichard
Fragrance Training Specialist & Evaluation
B
U
ZB
ZU
Z
Z
Bleu Paradis & Fruit Défendu by Terry de
Gunzburg
Tralala & Lily of the Valley by Penhaligon’s
Eutopie
DaliA by Dali
WFN Confidential: a new French rock ‘n’ rose brand to come up in April signed by a Lady of
the Fragrance Industry and her daughter... More details in next WFN 49!
Upcoming fragrances: Givenchy, Karl Lagerfeld, Scherrer, La Manufacture, Escada,
Reminiscence, By Kilian, Alien Eau Extraordinaire and a new collection of rare fragrances by
Thierry Mugler
Thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading
and Sylvaine Delacourte (Guerlain) for blogging (espritdeparfum)
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Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant People
Sonia Constant – GIVAUDAN
In 1999, Sonia Constant entered the ISIPCA and quickly made her debut at Givaudan in
Fine Perfumery. In 2001, she entered the School of Perfumery under the direction of Jean
Guichard. From 2004 to 2006, whilst still at Givaudan, she provided olfactive training for
clients as well as carrying out her duties as a Perfumer. In 2006, she joined the Fine
Perfume Creation team in Paris.
In her highly contrasted portfolio of perfumes, we can find major companies from the
masstige sector such as big potential business giants Natura, O Boticario or Oriflame,
Avon, Mango… beside Burberry, Fragonard, Guerlain, Ferragamo, Kenzo.
She has also signed for recent niche brands such as Eutopie (Eutopie N°3, Liquides Imaginaires (the brand and store)
Fortis, Sancti, Les eaux Sanguines: Dom Rosa and Ferragamo Collection Tuscan Soul Viola Essenziale. She is comfortable
in creating luxury candles (Colette, L’Eclaireur...) or toiletries (shampoos).
A talented woman you will hear about more and more.
Jean Jacques – TAKASAGO
Music and perfume have a common vocabulary made up of composition and notes. Jean
Jacques offers the perfect illustration of the common denominator between the two
arts. At 16, he played the piano and loved jazz.
At 20, one of his friends mentioned ISIPCA to him. It was to be a revelation that cast a
veil of uncertainty over his firm intention to be a musician. He fell for the charms of
perfume, in what was to be a key moment in his studies and artistic aspirations. In 1993,
he joined Quest International to work first with Pierre Bourdon then Maurice Roucel. In
1994 he was recruited by Kao Corporation, and three years later in 1997 he moved to
Takasago. He absolutely adores being creative, playing with raw materials as if he were
playing with Lego.
You certainly remember his famous superb coffee note in L’Or by Torrente…His palette of creations in duo or not
(with Françoise Caron or Francis Kurkdjian) is now impressive in both prestige or masstige brands: Jean Jacques has
signed recently Kenzo Floralista, Kenzo Couleur Violet, Givenchy Gentlemen Only Intense and Gentlemen Only
(this latest one with F. Kurkdjian).
USA – Olfactory trends – prestige market (NPD- Premium Beauty News)
“Floral fragrances aren’t fading away, but less traditional
scents are gaining more attention from female consumers
than ever before,” commented Karen Grant. “With the
emergence of more artisanal scents on the market, women
are welcoming the opportunity to experiment and explore
different options.”
“The recognizable classics remain strong, but new
players are important rising stars to watch,” said Grant.
“Today, the opportunity for reinvention afforded by a
novel scent coexists with the instant indulgence provided
by the classics.”
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[wfn]
■ Fragrant Sagas
Rochas
Marcel Rochas
and Mae West
Marcel Rochas was a French Couturier who opened his Haute Couture boutique in
the 30’s in Paris. Among his youthful and audacious creations, he invented a
bathing suit in latex and cellophane called « La Bourrasque ». In the 40s he met
his wife, Hélène, who was a model. She became his muse and, after his death, the
first woman to be CEO of a French company. He dressed many actresses and met
Mae West, whose curves are said to have inspired the bottle of perfume Femme
in 1944 (chypre fruity). As homage to his wife. Rochas created the ‘Guêpière’ the
wasp corset, symbolizing the return to eternal femininity.
Then came the first grooming line for men with Moustache in 1949 (fougere) and
other fragrances such as Madame Rochas (1960), Monsieur Rochas (1969), the
eau fraîche Eau de Rochas in 1970 (the first name was Eau de Roche, a concept of
1948) which became a master piece. Then Eau de Rochas pour Homme, Byzance,
Globe, Lui, Lumière, Tocade, Rochas Man... were born.
Since 2008, Jean-Michel Duriez has been following the
Rochas’ heritage in Nicolas Mamounas’ footsteps (perfumer).
As the in-House perfumer, he ensures Rochas fragrances are
composed with the same quality as originals. Jean-Michel is
responsible for all raw materials and the brand image as well.
He created « Les Cascades de Rochas » by adding a twist of
modern and gourmand notes.
Thierry Mugler
How to describe the so talented man Thierry Mugler? French fashion designer,
photographer, Thierry Mugler is recognizable among all designers of his
generation. Native of the east of France, Strasbourg, Thierry Mugler knew, when
he was a child, that his head would be in the stars. Visionary and determined to
invent audacious creations for women. He began to mark us dream in the early
90’s with his innovative and visionary fashion. Mugler’s style was tinted by
architecture, light, shapes, materials in order to highlight women and their
femininity. He invented a new futuristic way of life, mixing self-confidence,
power, in the golden eighties and above all, dream and fancy.
Monsieur Mugler also surprised us with his fragrances and
made us dream again. A wand that Vera Strubi handled and
transformed all perfumes he wanted to create into gold. First
Mugler’Angel was a strange alien in the little world of
perfumes in 1992. Each of us remembers the ambient
minimalism of that time with the invasion of watery floral
transparent fragrances and the arrival of this angel. All codes
were inverted. Even if the huge success of Angel doesn’t need
to be proved, we must say now that Angel is the latest
timeless masterpiece of the century. Never equaled, often
counterfeited.
The jewel : the star
shaped Angel bottle
designed by Mugler
himself took
2 years of work and is a
genuine technological
feat
The purpose of Angel was to disturb and create an olfactory
earthquake: design, name of the fragrance, juice (a
gourmand oriental-chypre around fruits, caramel, sugar
candy (thanks to perfumer Olivier Cresp from Firmenich),
and a refillable system with the Angel source…
Then, the story continued with other ‘magic’ fragrances, audacious and strange, all
coming out from Mugler’s comics or fancy world... as well such as Cologne, A*Men, Alien,
or Womanity. In terms of fragrances, Mugler has often been very avant-garde with non
conventional accords. And that is the mark of the great creator. And soon, you’ll have
another surprises !
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Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Boutiques
2nd Parisian boutique for Atelier Cologne
Another step for the trendy brand Atelier Cologne, and its famous Colognes Absolues, is the
opening of its 2nd boutique in Paris, located at 15 rue Debelleyme in the Haut-Marais. There
is the same industrial spirit in this new fragrance workshop as in the other boutiques
worldwide: it is furnished with authentic industrial furniture such as lamps, stools, and
engraving machines which give a unique atmosphere to the place. This boutique in Le
Marais is a strong signal for the brand which is growing and creating with other niche brands
a new destination for fragrances connoisseurs, aficionados, neighbours or tourists. Customers
all enjoy the tailor-made engraving workshop for customizing the leather cases of their
perfume bottles, a service which can only be found at Atelier Cologne. Atelier Cologne owns 4
boutiques (2 in NY, 2 in Paris) and has just opened a personalized stand in Chengdu (China)
and now has more than 400 points of sales worldwide … and of course continues to plan for
more international openings!
Actually, the new Cologne Absolue Cédrat Enivrant is being launched. Back to the roots for
Atelier Cologne. This 14th Cologne Absolue enriches the Collection Originale and celebrates
the beauty of citrus notes, the classic ingredients of the legendary Cologne. Inspired by the
French 75 cocktail invented in 1925 in speakeasy bars, Cédrat Enivrant is for lovers of lemon
and gin notes. Created by Sylvie Ganter the creator and founder of the brand in collaboration
with perfumer Ralf Schwieger (Mane US), this Cologne Absolue highlights Morrocan Cédrat
The collection is composed of
(lemon), mint and juniper berries. Sparkling, invigorating and addictive with its citrus notes,
30 ml travel spray, 100 ml, 200 ml, soap
Cédrat Enivrant is really intoxicating and a pure perfume to be shared.
and candle.
Ex Nihilo, from nowhere to Paris
After Jovoy, Nose, Liquides Imaginaires, here is the 4th French niche boutique to
open in the capital: Ex Nihilo.
Ex Nihilo is said to be an alternative Parisian perfume house that designs
personalized luxury fragrances and promotes emerging creative talents. This
was the dream of 3 young French founders Sylvie Loday, Olivier Royère
and Benoît Verdier when they opened at the end of December.
Is this a new niche brand concept or a genuine new perfumery ?
Becoming a new challenger in the French confidential perfumery is not easy
but the newly aesthetically designed brick and mortar creates an interesting
presence with its three-dimensional extrapolation of the perfume brand,
reflecting the brand's core values and vision led by Christophe Pillet. Luxury,
light, beautiful materials (marble, woods, metal, felt), everything is made for a
sensory shopping experience.
Above all… Ex Nihilo is aimed at lovers of bespoke luxury perfumes: indeed, the
concept is to concoct your own fragrance from 8 accords composed by some of the
best perfumers of Givaudan (Louise Turner, Aurélien Guichard or Olivier Pescheux).
A fragrant consultation with an expert helps to choose one accord and to finalize
your personal touch by adding some raw materials. The standard bottle perfume
(once filled up) can be engraved in front of you and topped in a specific material.
And that’s impressive.
Remember Ex Nihilo means ‘from nothing’ in latin and is located in the prestigious
Rue st Honoré, at n°352. A first big step for such an unexpected brand! Good luck!
4
[wfn]
■ Fragrant Launches
Fruit Défendu & Bleu Paradis – Terry de Gunzburg
After having launched her first collection in September 2012 which was composed of 5
(plus an Oud) the Queen of Color, Terry de Gunzburg, launches a new joyful collection
around the queen of flowers: the Rose. Fond of art deco, this new pop arty collection
brings a fresh color to her palette. Composed by Michel Almairac (Robertet) who loves to
work on the ingredient, the duo of fragrances is made up of fresh and woody rose : Fruit
Défendu is a sparkling fruity and gourmand rose, Bleu Paradis a floral woody smoky rose.
Rosy fragrances instead of rose perfumes. All in the bottles (100 ml) as the first collection
but elongated for fun. Fragrances are eaux de parfum. Currently being launched.
Lily of the Valley and Tralala – Penhaligon’s
Penhaligon’s has been very active for a few years. Two fragrances to showcase which
demonstrate the will to be different in a so called niche perfumery: first, a homage to
the classic modern Lily of the Valley created in 1976: a floral, fresh, delicate and soft
fragrance. This edition is celebrated as a partner of the London Fashion Week. A
modern way to celebrate a classic: being where you are not expected. Secondly,
Tralala, a fragrance created by Master Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour inspired by the
fashion universe of Meadham Kirchhoff. A rich and oriental fragrance created with
saffron, whiskey, ambrette, galbanum, violet leaves, carnation, iris, incense, tuberose,
ylang ylang, musk, vetiver, patchouli, heliotrop, vanilla, myrrh.
Penhaligon’s likes to be the modern fragrant partner of all forms of events and arts.
Eutopie n°6 – Eutopie (Elodie Pollet)
After successfully having launched its first four perfumes in Europe, Russia & the
Middle East, Eutopie Perfumes continue to narrate the sentimental journey of
the nomadic couple travelling the world on a quest to discover the ‘place of the
good’. Eutopie, deriving from the word Utopia describing the ideal society, will
now venture on a memorable new journey into the world of exclusive fragrances,
by introducing Eutopie No6.
The journey of the nomadic couples continues in the land of Russia, following
the journey of Elodie Pollet, Créatrice of Eutopie, who lived in Moscow from
2009 to 2013, adding a tribute to the Slavic Soul to the collection. Eutopie n°6
encapsulates the contrasts encountered in Russia, with a combination of
heritage & sophistication. It oscillates between the glamourous modern life and
the traditional spirit. Eutopie n°6 associates the floral elegance of the
Geranium with a strong leather touch, creating an exceptional fragrance for
both women and men. Precious woods, frankincense & patchouli add to the
richness of the scent. The brand is available in 100 prestigious points of sale
including Printemps Haussmann Paris, Rive Gauche and Rivoli in Russia, Osswald
Zurich
or
Juju
s’amuse
in
NY…
For
more
information:
[email protected] and www.eutopie-parfums.com
DaliA – Salvador Dali
The Dali fragrances are always a joyful collection of scents. This time, the latest
one is DaliA a fruity floral signed by talented Fabrice Pellegrin (Firmenich). The
juice opens with top notes of kumquat, pomegranate and raspberry, building
to a heart of orange, peony and a green tea accord. The base blends precious
woods such as cedar and rosewood, and is accentuated with white musks.
Nathalie Pichard
toPNotes