Issue #3 Spring 2010 Issue #4 Winter 2010

IPMS IRELAND
News Letter
Issue 3 – April 2010
9
0
0
2
d
r
o
f
l
Te
&
e
u
g
a
Pr
News
♦
Club News
Articles
How To Paint Metal Finishes
♦
Piraten Of The Mediterranean U
U--81
♦
Last Of Many
♦
Visit to Kbely Air Museum
Is this the real world, or a modelworld
Scale Modelworld 2009
♦
Handy Web Pages
♦
♦
www.ipmsireland.com
IPMS IRELAND
Editorial
I wish to thank everyone who sent me articles and
photos to publish in this newsletter. They make the
newsletter possible so keep them coming. If you have
any comments please feel free to email them to me at
[email protected]. The last newsletter was
published just before Scale Modelworld in Telford. A
small number of copies were available at the show and it
was received quiet well, so we should be proud of where
we have got. A copy was also picked up by Revell and
impressed them, which led to them offering support. We
will no doubt benefit greatly from this, but we will have to
continue to push our club forward to keep this link alive
and to form more links. Revell have provided us with five
great kits for our Nationals. We thank then greatly. I for
one look forward to the future of this link we have with
Revell.
I just thought I would send out some guidelines on
submitting articles and photos for the Newsletter. I’m
interested in anything that involves modelling or is
related to modelling. Even if you just have photos for the
cover or a walkaround that is great. I will accept the text
in Microsoft word 97 format or as a text file. Any photos
or drawing can be in jpg format. As to the size of the file,
I don’t mind. But if you think they are going to be too big
to email well just send me an email asking for my postal
address. When you write your articles please remember
to keep them of interest to all and also remember that
you may be very knowledgeable on your chosen subject,
but some of us may have less knowledge. So don’t feel
stupid to explain in detail. When it comes to photos and
drawings involved in your article, it would be safe to say
the better they look, the better you article will look. When
you are placing your photos in your text please place the
image name there to help me, so something like “* Photo
1 *” would help. If you are writing a kit review, it is nice to
have a full frame photo of the finished model and some
close up shots on a plain background. I know this is not
always an easy thing to do if you have a half-meter long
ship. If you are using photos/images provided to you by
someone else, please ask them to give you permission
in writing. This is to protect you, me and the club.
Branch Reports
Dublin Chapter Goes from Strength to Strength!
by Philip Jones
Since Newsletter Issue 2 (was it really only last
October – so much has happened since!), the Dublin
Chapter has kept up its programme of events, and has
gained new members. We now meet regularly, every
month, usually in Starbucks in the Dublin Docklands, and
generally on the third Saturday of every month.
Issue 3
Two members from the chapter – Philip and Paul –
represented IPMS Ireland at the Aviation Fair in ALSAA
on a very wet and windy day on November 29th 2009. A
couple of weeks’ earlier, we had an interesting talk from
Barry Spencer on the art of making ships (and there
were some lovely examples shown…just how does he
get such tiny photoetch folded???)
In December, we had the traditional short meeting, with a
show and tell, after which we adjourned for the by now
obligatory Christmas lunch in a pizza place nearby. PJ
joined us for the food, showing a scratch-built UN truck.
The new Committee for 2010 was voted in, with Paul as
Secretary, Ken as Organiser and myself as Chair.
In January, Paul gave a demonstration on the use of
acrylic paints, pointing out some of the advantages of
this medium over the enamels, and giving us his choices
of manufacturers. As might be expected, Tamiya came
out tops, with Lifecolour and Vallejo coming in next.
Some of those in attendance were later seen heading for
Marks to clear them out of Tamiya thinners. As I write
this (mid April 2010), they have had a further Tamiya
shipment in, and are AGAIN out of the thinners. So
clearly, Paul had an influence, and some of us who had
sworn by Humbrol enamels have (nearly) converted.
In February, there was a talk on the joys of Spanish Civil
War modelling, by yours truly, followed by a show and
tell. Quite a few models were in evidence….was this the
result of some upcoming competition, I wonder?
In March, we had the long-awaited field trip to Baldonnel
aerodrome and Irish Aer Corps museum. This trip,
which was ably organised by Paul, and very generously
facilitated by Flight Sgt Perkins, took up a whole day
(Wednesday March 24th), and was attended by a record
number of members. Not only did we get to see the
museum, with its memorabilia of the early years of the
IAC, and some static examples of our historical flying,
but also got a chance to go into most of the active
modern hangers, and come up close and personal with
Casas, Government Jets, and a whole flight of Pilatus’s
(or should that be Pilati?). The food was good too!
Future events for the Dublin Chapter, after a preparation
meeting on April 17th for the Cork Nationals, and a
similar meeting in May prior to the IMMS show at the end
of May, are in planning. We may have a rest after our
exertions for the summer months. However, ideas for
the Autumn programme – perhaps including another field
trip to e-day in September, or to Telford in November
(this time without baggage limits on cut price airlines) –
are welcome. As always, all are welcome – even from
outside the Pale.
Page 2
April 2010
How to Paint Metal Finishes
IPMS IRELAND
How To Paint Metal Finishes
Alclad 2.
By Lee McGuire
The purpose of this article is to describe how to
give a model a convincing metal finish. It is how
I do it, and the method described works for me.
I will also go into heated metal and how to get
some interesting effects.
Before starting I am assuming that you have
finished the surface you are going to paint, and
it is relatively smooth and ready to paint i.e. all
fillers and joints are sanded smooth etc.
For demonstration purposes I am using 3cm
lengths of plastic pipe to paint.
It is also important for this kind of work to have
a clean work space, and ensure its dust free by
wiping down all surfaces with a damp cloth.
Also in between any sanding steps wipe down
your surfaces.
Chrome, Polished Aluminium or Polished
Stainless Steel finishes:
I`m first going to describe how to do the most
difficult finish, which is a shiny metal type finish.
Materials you require:
1. Wet and Dry sandpaper (mainly 1000 grit)
2. Halfords Grey or White Primer
3. Halfords Gloss Black
4. Alclad 2 "chrome" laquer
5. Kitchen paper
6. Tack Cloth
7. Airbrush.
8. Micromesh 3600
Method:
What you need to bear in mind for this type of
finish is that you have a very shiny and smooth
Gloss Black to get the best results. Alclad
Chrome will not give anything like a chrome
finish if this is not done. Also any imperfections
in the gloss black will show through in the final
finish. However, you will get away with a fairly
good finish if you take shortcuts, but what I
describe below is how to get it perfect.
Fig.1. Before we begin.
1. First Coat of Primer:As stated above I am
assuming that the model is pretty much free of
blemishes, all filler is smooth etc. The first step
is to prime the area with Halfords primer. You
should do a light coat, however cover all parts
and it should also be of even thickness. Maybe
two passes of the airbrush is required.
2. Sand First Coat of Primer: The first coat of
primer should then be lightly sanded using wet
1000 grit. While doing this you will come across
blemishes and rough spots, this is the point you
will need to ensure these are sanded away.
When this is complete if possible wash the
parts to get all the residue off. If you cant wash,
for example a completed model, wipe it as best
you can with damp kitchen paper.
3. Prime the parts again: At this point most
likely you will have gone through the primer
with the sand paper at some points. Even if you
haven't, you should do at least one light coat of
primer as this will show up any blemishes you
have missed.
4. Sand second coat of primer: Assuming that
all blemishes are gone,(if not go back to 2) and
(Continued on page 4)
Issue 3
Page 3
April 2010
How to Paint Metal Finishes
you have a smooth coat of primer
on the parts you can now use the
3600 Micromesh to smooth the
primer. Use it wet. You will feel the
initial "roughness" of the primer when you move
the micromesh over the surface and you will
then feel this disappear. As soon as you do,
move on to the next area.
5. Clean up: All parts should be washed or
wiped to ensure all dust and residue has been
removed. They should then be allowed to dry
properly. This can be speeded up with the help
of a hair dryer.
IPMS IRELAND
the black to fully harden.
8. Check all parts: Go over all the parts under a
lamp and ensure there are no blemishes or
snots of paint or dust etc. If you find any, these
can be rubbed out with wet 1000 grit and
repainted black. But hopefully if you have done
everything right you will have a mirror Gloss
black finish. This is also how to get the perfect
gloss finish for any colour. If you do it this way,
there is no need for polishes to bring out the
shine, as it will now be as shiny as you could
ever get it!
Fig3. Black and very shiny!
6. Final Clean up: when you are ready to spray
on the gloss black, you should wipe over all
parts with a tack cloth. Remember! Dust is our
enemy and can ruin the most perfect paint job!
Fig2. Primed, sanded and clean
7. Paint parts Black: First "haze" a coat of black
very lightly onto the parts to paint. This will
make the next coat adhere much better to the
item. The second coat should be heavier, and
will colour all parts black with no primer
showing through. The final coat will be heavier
and you should see the shine of the paint as
you put it on! If there are some dry spots
(rough), you may need another coat. Hopefully
not as we want as little coats of paint as
possible as the more we put on the more detail
gets covered. When you are happy with the
finish, walk away. Leave it until the next day for
Issue 3
9. Chrome time!: Using Alclad "chrome", turn
up the pressure on the compressor just enough
to mist the paint. It will be different for different
airbrushes, but as an idea using an Iwata
Revolution about 10psi works.
You should work by spraying very light coats.
You can see in the picture below how light (this
is one coat). When spraying NEVER STOP
MOVING. Move the brush in a circular motion,
as if "buffing" the paint on. The paint goes on to
the part almost instantly dry and this is how you
want it to go on.
Page 4
(Continued on page 5)
April 2010
How to Paint Metal Finishes
IPMS IRELAND
10. Protecting the finish: Alclad is fairly tough
and doesn’t really need to be protected. If you
put a clear coat over it, it will actually take from
the finish. But if you are using the likes of a
decal solution try a tiny bit first and when using
the solution try and keep it on the decal only.
Also the same goes for washes, don’t over do it
and always try a little bit first.
What I have found is that if you do your metal
finish correctly, there is no need to protect it
with varnish.
Fig 4. First coat of chrome
If you put too much on a spot you will see it go
white, if this happens stop the flow of paint and
allow the air from the brush to dry it. Otherwise
it will stay like this.
As you build up the paint you will see the part
become more and more metal like. Finish by
brushing horizontal and then vertical on the
part, again always moving.
When you get used to it you will be able to give
slightly heavier coats, this will come almost
naturally as you learn how the paint behaves.
Fig 5. Completed item
If you feel that you need to cover the metal
finish use somthing like Microscale clear coat ,
or Johnsons clear. But they must be airbrushed
on in very very light coats!I have found
microscale gloss varnish best for this. You
should thin it right down with water (80% water)
and haze it over the parts. Allow to dry for an
hour or use a hair dryer to get this done in a
few seconds and then give it a second coat. An
alternative which I now use is Ronseal quick
drying varnish. Im convinced that this is exactly
the same as the Microscale stuff.
One thing to note, the varnish will very slightly
dull the polished look of the chrome but its
barely noticeable.
Other Metal Finishes:
There are many other metal finishes which you
can do. Sometimes you may not want
something to have a mirror finish.
There are many combinations of Alclad and
primer you can use to achive what you want. I
will cover a few below but the only way to best
thing to do is experiment!
1. Aluminium over chrome: First complete the
chrome finish as normal, and then lightly haze
over a coat of Alclad Aluminium. This will give a
slightly rougher finish. Maybe use it for a finish
on a well used aircraft, or its ideal for the
frames of a motorbike. Another thing that can
be done here is to first paint the item a perfect
chrome, then in certain parts lightly spray on
Aluminium, for example, on an aircraft paint
the center of each panel with a very very light
coat of Alu. This give the look of polished
Aluminim that has lost its sheen over time.
2. Chrome over Aluminium. : First paint the
(Continued on page 6)
Issue 3
Page 5
April 2010
How to Paint Metal Finishes
IPMS IRELAND
item with primer, then aluminium.
In areas that may have been
polished spray on a very light coat
of Chrome. I think this is one of my
favourite finishes and could be really used for
great effect on something like an old and rough
mig. I would also use it on the frame of a bike,
on any spots that would have something
rubbing off it polishing the Aluminium.
heated, and some are heated more than
others. This is where you as a modeler comes
in. You need to observe as many examples of
the metal you want to paint and go from there.
Aluminium changes colour differently to
stainless steel. Where Aluminium takes on a
darker colour, over long periods of heating,
Stainless Steel can change colour over just a
few mins.
Take the exhaust on a motorcycle. The metal
will change from a shiny silver chrome like
colour to a goldy bronze. The more its used the
darker the colour. On areas where heat
gathers, like bends in the pipe it can take on
reds, blues and violet colours. Also on non
polished areas it can take on brownish black
colours. On a 2 stroke racing bike you see
even more colour changes where the pipes are
made up of different diameter sections welded
together the changes are even more
pronounced.
On an jet aircraft, you can sometimes see the
areas covering the engine have taken on a
darker, matt type colour. And obviously the
exhaust there are even more changes.
But also remember that on an aircraft if you are
have an engine in your model, the examples I
gave about motorcycle exhausts would apply
for various pipes etc that would be heated by
the engine itself, or by hot gasses traveling
through them..... Observation is key!
3. Aluminium over Gloss Black: This is a
perfect finish for the likes of motorcycle engines
that had parts painted silver. Or aircraft
fuselages that were painted silver. It doesn't
look like real metal, but rather gives the look of
"is that painted or metal??"
4. Aluminium over primer: This makes a much
more convincing finish for aluminium items if
you want a matt/ unpolished finish. Again the
Aluminium paint should be put on in very light
coats, building up the colour. There are various
versions like "white aluminium", "dark
aluminium", "duralium" etc. The same applies
to these, paint them over primer for the "real"
metal look.
Fig 6. Comparison of Aluminium painted
If you want to achive these colour changes
there are a number of ways to do this. Alclad 2
produce a number of "burnt/heated metal"
laquers. Tamiya also have their "clear" colours.
First paint the item chrome for a better effect.
Then start building up the colours swith very
very light coats on the areas you want.
Always start with the lighter colours. i.e.
Orange...reds... then blues. Finally Black or
Smoke.
If you want to make it more severe, after doing
all your colours, put on a few coats of Smoke,
building the effect up slowly until you get the
desired effect.
over Black and over primer. The left is
black.
Burnt or heated Metal:
Different metals behave
Issue 3
differently
For aircraft, there is a colour called Jet Exhaust
by Alclad. This gives a really nice effect painted
directly over primer. It gives that Matt effect
that's often seen. You can also use this for the
when
Page 6
(Continued on page 7)
April 2010
How to Paint Metal Finishes
IPMS IRELAND
ceramic parts inside the nozzle.
First paint it with Matt white, or
White Primer, then starting at the
inside of the ceramic plates build
up the colour with the Jet Exhaust colour. If the
nozzle is off the model you can spray from the
inside out giving an effect like the real thing.
This can be replicated using Alclad Jet
Exhaust. Using white primer as a base.
The alclad range of heated metal colours
above.
Fig7. Colour change on Stainless Steel.
Note how the change is more severe where
bike as in fig 7. A much more severe
change. Alclad Sepia would be ideal for
this.
Fig9. Sepia/Orange colours on the longer
cooler sections of pipe Blues for the hotter
heat builds up beside the welds.
parts, and welds.
Fig 10. More severe blues, and Violet. Is the
bottom pipe newer and therefore less
colour changes?
Fig 11. The blues are darker, the oranges
deeper, Some colours as deep as black as
this is a much older bike.
A picture from the alclad site. But of course you
can do just as good!
Fig 8. This is a narrower pipe on the same
Issue 3
Page 7
April 2010
How to Paint Metal Finishes
IPMS IRELAND
RED HOT
NEWS.
We have Great
news. Revell one of
the
leading
manufactures of
plastics kits, has
offered to support
the
club,
by
providing us with
samples of their
new releases on an
ongoing basis. This
gesture by Revell
was prompted by
the sterling work
put into the club
news letter which
they received at
Telford and which
impressed them.
The first set of kit
we received will be
offered as prizes in
the first IPMS
Ireland National.
Any future kits we
receive will be
distributed
to
members.
We
would like to see
these gifts made
and reviewed for
the newsletter / web
page.
This is a great
opportunity for the
club.
Issue 3
Page 8
April 2010
Revell Type VII C U-Boot
IPMS IRELAND
Piraten of the Mediterranean U-81.
Building Revells Type VII C U-Boot in 1:72
1.1 What Donitz didn’t realise
When Revell first released their Type VII C Uboot Wolf Pack
( kit number 05015) a
collective uuuuhhhhhhh went up across the
globe, a Tsunami of drool poured across
computer screens as we read the first previews
and glimpsed the pre-release photos of this
beautiful kit. If Dontiz had only known the
reactions this kit would provoke when the first
keels for the Type VII C ( U69 and 70) were
laid down by F. Krupp at the Germaniawerf AG
in Kiel in 1938 he probably would have paused
for thought ….probably. Those of you who don’t
know anything about the Type VII C and have
lived under a rock for the last 50 years, you can
visit U-boot.net to catch up. When we say the
words U-boot we all mean a Type VII C , it is
an icon of German military might in World War
II in the way the Stuka and the Tiger were.
There are few certainties in life, but every now
and again we are roused from this torpor
instilled with a heightened sense of purpose
and clarity of vision and yes I too, like Paul on
the road to Damascus , had an epiphany- I
GOT TO HAVE ME ONE OF THEM THINGS .
1.2 V.G.R.F.P. (MK. I)
With the 1:72 kit measuring in at just under the
meter getting this one into the house and safely
stowed away in the stash was going to require
Klingon cloaking technology the like of which
are not often seen this side of the wormhole .
Issue 3
By Brian Kirwan.
Forgoing the need to acquire “foreign ”
weapons of mass deception ( thanks for the
heads-up , George W.)we opted for a low-tech
approach , we would concoct a ridiculous story
which was so blatantly untrue and a cover for
our real and very obvious intentions that only
the Germans and the French wouldn’t buy into
it. Hmm….This project would require a
“VGRFP” (Very Good Reason For Purchasing)
in order to relieve some of the expected
ground-fire expected when passing through the
hall door whistling innocently with that box
under one’s arm. Whilst carrying out the pre-op
recce I had pondered the issues which this
mission would involve and came up with the
perfect solution – I wouldn’t be buying it for
myself but as a present for another. This solved
the issues of the financial layout and would
also solve the not inconsiderable storage
issues involved in displaying Donitz’s little
submersible yacht . It was June and my father,
old grizzled seafarer that he is , was going to
add another birthday to his ancient mariners
status shortly in August. He is fascinated by all
things historical and wet and the only foreign
language film he claims to have ever watched
was Das Boot . So having created this latest
member of the coalition of the willing there was
just the small issues of convincing She –
indoors. In retrospect this was far easier than I
Page 9
(Continued on page 10)
April 2010
Revell Type VII C U-Boot
IPMS IRELAND
imagined, very little dissent in fact
it seemed as if the forces of
checks and balances between the
size of my stash and the needs of
the domestic budget were temporarily
suspended.
1.3 Straight out of Das Box
Given the time restrictions (remember it is
supposed to be a birthday gift) and the fact that
some of the super detailled builds I had seen
on the Internet require a higher level of
neurosis than I possess this was going to be a
straight out of Das Box build. The kit contains
some 127 parts of well moulded polystyrene
parts and some black thread for rigging
purposes. The parts had no flash present on
my example and the detailing was sharp
throughout. The hulls are split vertically and are
festooned with moulded-on detail which lends
itself to shading and weathering. All in all the
contents of the kits strengthened me in my
conviction that this kit has such a built-in WOW
factor that us mere mortals don’t need to add to
the contents of the box in order to make a great
kit.
Steps 1 through to 19 are focused on the hull
assembly and apart from a tricky fit of parts 32
and 34 to part 28 ( the fit of the directional
planes controls frames to the propeller shaft)
the assembly was a breeze. During my
research into the kit before hand I had
identified a number of changes and additions to
the kit which I wanted to make without turning
this into a Project Terribles . The first of these
was the choice to drill out the flood holes,
which, while recessed-moulded on the kit would
look a lot better drilled through. There are quiet
a few of these adorning the hull but a half hour
with the Dremel grinder, rat-tailed files and
some sand paper proved that resistance was
futile and the end result better looking than just
painting the recess shadows black. The seethrough effect is accurate and as long as you
remember to spray black to the resulting
interior edges there should be no problems.
Some aftermarket companies do have kits for
detailing the inner hull which look great but
these are expensive and I don’t love my Dad
THAT much.
I opted to keep the torpedo doors closed and
before I knew it I had the two halves of the hull
Issue 3
glued and wrapped in clamps and tape. In
order to wrap up the hull assembly a few
choices need to be made if your are modeling
an early of late model Type VII C. What it
comes down to is the drilling out of holes for
the fitting of the cable cutter rig on the bow
(fitted to the early boats) or not. Actually I
drilled them all out and would decide later, what
is a extra hole in the hull of the boat , not like
it’s going to sink now is it?
Before the first afternoon was over I had the
hull halves joined, the decking fitted( brilliant
precise fit) and propeller shafts and control
planes fitted, the latter are even movable so if
ever dear ol’ Dad wants to take the model into
the bath he can navigate it through the Straits
of Gibraltar.
1.4 Decisions , decisions!!
Before the second session started I made an
examination of steps 20 through to 52 which
detail the construction of the conning tower. In
the course of these construction steps the
builder has to choose between a boat with or
without snorkel . This latter formed a significant
alteration to the conning tower structure so it
was time to decide what boat was going to be
coming out of my shipyard. Internet searches
for U-boot goodies had revealed extras,
amongst others, in the form of Ulad decals.
There were three different sheets available
(UL7201,02 and 03) featuring between 14 to
twenty boats per sheets, just in case you felt
like building your own wolf-pack……. I wanted
to build the ol’man a Das Boot meaning one
featuring the Laughing Sawfish of the 9th
Flotilla. The film Das Boot was based on
Lothar –Günther Buchheim book portraying
many of the events of his patrol onboard U-96.
Sheets one and three feature the said emblem
of the 9th flotilla (featuring respectively U96 on
part one and U-755 and U407 on part three). At
the time I couldn’t source either of the sheets
commercially but I was offered UL7202 ( minus
one boat and free of charge ) through IPMS NL
forum . The offer came from Mr.Rob van
Oosterzee ,a true gentleman. My thanks Rob
for that.
1.5 Pirate of the Mediterranean
Of the choices available (see here under for
details) I settled on U-81 , the combination of
the emblem, the disruptive camouflage scheme
Page 10
(Continued on page 11)
April 2010
Revell Type VII C U-Boot
IPMS IRELAND
and the operational history settled
the matter for me. Laid down in
May 1940 and commissioned in
1941 the boat had a successful
career of 17 patrols , sinking 26 ships and
damaging two others. It would appear that this
boat spent a lot of time operating in the
Mediterranean as opposed to the North
Atlantic . Under the captaincy of Obtl. F.
Guggenberger, her first captain, she sank the
British aircraft carrier Ark Royal on the 13th of
November 1941. According to the footnotes on
the decal sheet the cartoon character Jaffa on
the conning tower (see photo 10) referred to a
attack she made on a power station in Jaffa
(Tel –Aviv). Not many U-boots are known for
their attacks on defenceless electricity poles so
I had to have one of them ! The boat met an
inauspicious end in that she was sunk, in
January 1944 during an American air attack on
Pola (present day Croatia) (see photo 11),
raised from Davey Jones’s locker in April ’44
only to be broken up.
1.6 Up periscope !
Now that I knew I was building a boat without a
Schnorkel (which is German for ….snorkel) and
without the bow cable cutters I was all set.
Looking at other peoples building reports of the
same kit I decided a bit of detailing around the
conning tower and the deck-gun would raise
the detail level significantly without this turning
into a mega build. I added detail in the form of
copper wire wrapping around the periscope,
including the base ( part 60,61 and 62) see
photo 1 and 2 for detailing(see photo 1+2). Part
57,58 and 59 when assembled had additional
detail fitted to the base and lastly I added an
instrument decal to what I think is a compass
(part 56) and decided to leave the detalling in
the coining tower at that. There is a lot which
could be done in this area but that was, as they
say, outside the scope of the project.
Construction of the rest of the tower went as
per the instructions without a hitch. Steps 53
through till 58 detail the building and placement
of the deck gun and it was here I again stole
ideas from fellow modelers and added a yellow
lanyard to the barrel of the gun and I must say
when all is painted the use of yellow adds
something in terms of colour when offset
against the greys( see photo 3) . The rest of the
bits and bobs were added where appropriate ,
Issue 3
some being held back till after the painting was
complete.
1.7 Paint! Paint! Paint !
The paint scheme of the boat followed ( see the
rubiek for the colour callouts )
Given the sheer surface area to be covered
these colours form the basis of the scheme but
each colour was preceded by pre shading in
black and followed up with various lighter
shades of the base colour between seams and
then a overspray of the base colour(not
lightened) to tie the whole lot back together.
Time spent on this process will be rewarded
with subtle colour graduations across these
large surfaces. The last touches to the hull
bottom were realized with drybrushing, there is
a lot of relief detail so there is plenty to do.
Having masked the lower hull, the upper hull
underwent the same process but with the
lighter upper hull colour. Next up the disruptive
pattern was applied , initially with masks for the
hard edge but later I over sprayed a layer of the
lighter upper hull base colour whereby the hard
edge softened. This was followed up with a lot
of post-shading of the vertical seam lines
marked on the model by the presence of rivets
(see photo 14). This post-shading was done
using a thinned mixture of the lower hull colour
and brown. The net effect of this treatment is to
create (from a distance at least) the ripple
effect in the steel plate structure of the real
thing which you don’t get in nicely moulded
plastic. ( See photo 4 and 5 ). The entire boat
was treated to a liberate dose of rust using an
oil based Raw Umber paint. The long drying
time allows for working the effect into the
surrounding areas creating a more natural look
without all the hurry of using acrylic paints.
Particular attention was given to the conning
tower and the framework of railing around it
(see photo 7). The proliferation of raised detail
in this area lends itself to some more
drybrushing . The flood holes also were
subjected to the rust weathering.
1.8 A plank, a badge and some neo-Nazis.
Seeing as this was a present I decided to do a
little work on the presentation of the final
result . For a base I picked up a nice bit of
wooden shelving from the DIY to use in
conjunction with the kit cradle which kept the
Page 11
(Continued on page 12)
April 2010
Revell Type VII C U-Boot
IPMS IRELAND
boat (along with some screws
hidden from view). Added to this
was a nameplate detailling U-81’s
fate, which in hindsight was much
too big and consequently not used. Lastly the
entire effect was set-off with a brass
Kriegsmarine service badge for the U-boot
service (see photo 16) . The latter, a replica,
was bought through the Internet form a
company in the US, along with some Luftwaffe
unit badges.
I guess the fact that all the Waffen SS division
insignia were also available should have been
a clue but I was rather unnerved when the
package arrived a week including some of the
company’s advertisement literature too libelous
for Internet. Apparently there are people out
there with German Sheppard dogs, guns and
read the collected works of Alfred Rosenburg
who make really cool WWII badge replicas. So
if anybody is looking to buy an exclusive Hitler
doll( 1:16) , complete with a SA and black
uniform with interchange heads(????) I know a
man selling them. But I’d much rather you
didn’t.
A U-boot in 1:72 scale , Revell have released it
in a number of sub version but get it, build it
and marvel at it because my ol’ man spent all
evening catching a peak the night he got it off
me . Best present I ever gave anyone. If
anyone is interested in the remainder of Ulad
decals 7202 I will be more than willing to pass
on the sheet to the next fellow on the proviso
that the sheet be passed on again. We can
make a little U-boot chain letter.
MAPS ARE FROM GOOGLE
Issue 3
Page 12
April 2010
Last of Many
IPMS IRELAND
Last of Many
The last Hurricane Ever built.
Hurricane Mk.IIc, serial number PZ865, left the
production line at Langley, Buckinghamshire, in
August of 1944. It was the last of the 14.553
Hurricanes ever built and so the inscription
‘The Last of the many’ was written on both
sides just aft of the canopy.
The aircraft was almost immediately purchased
from the Air Ministry by Hawker, stripped of its
armament, conserved and stored before being
used as a company communication and test
aircraft.
The Last Hurricane made its first public
appearance on 14.5.1950 at the R.Ae.S.
Garden Party in White Waltham, painted in
‘Hawker Blue’ and bearing civil registration GAMAU in gold or dark yellow.
By Filip Servit
One of the recent reincarnation of PZ865 is a
Hurricane BE581 ‘Night Reaper’ coded JXoE of
1 Squadron, flown by Czech born ace Karel
Kuttelwascher DFC, during his famous night
intruder missions from Tangmere in 1942.
Anyone who wishes to build ‘The Last of the
Many’ has a numerous kits to choose from.
Basically any kit of Hurricane Mk.IIc is suitable
as the aircraft was standard production aircraft.
Unfortunately, the only decals for civil
registration Hurricane, I know of, are from
limited edition Lifelike Decals set, 48-027 in
1/48 scale. There are both blue schemes
present in the set. There is a good choice of
decals for ‘Night Reaper’ in all major scales.
Hurricane 1
The aircraft has attended a few air races and
other public events during the 50’s, like King’s
Cup Air Race in June 1950, in which was
entered by HRH Princess Margaret and flown
by Group Captain Peter Townsend or National
Air Races in 1951 and 1954 with Don Lucey
behind the controls, Vintage Aircraft Rally in
1952, another R.AE.S. Garden Party in 1953 or
he RAE Jubilee in 1955, pilot Bill Bedford.
In the 60’s PZ865 was repainted in its war time
camouflage scheme and started its silver
screen carrier starring in movies like ‘The Battle
of Britain’, ‘Hawks in the Sun’ and ‘Angels One
Five’.
After a complete overhaul, PZ865 was flown to
Coltishall in March 1972 and given to the Battle
of Britain Memorial Flight by Hawker Siddeley.
For many years the aircraft appeared as ‘The
Last of the Many’ but eventually the canvas
with this inscription was removed and put on
display in the BBMF headquarters.
Aircraft itself was repainted in different
camouflage schemes, over the years,
representing various fighter aces fighting their
way throughout the WWII in the ranks of the
RAF.
Issue 3
‘The Last of the Many’ as it left factory line in
the summer of 1944. Standard RAF
camouflage of the period for day operations
consisting from Dark Green, Ocean Grey and
Medium Sea Grey with Sky fuselage band and
standard RAF marking and roundels. The
name of the aircraft is painted on both sides of
the fuselage.
Hurricane 2
Scheme worn during the King’s Cup Air Race
in 1950. Hawker Blue overall, with civil
registration G-AMAU in Gold applied on both
sides of the fuselage and on top wing on the
Page 13
(Continued on page 14)
April 2010
Last of Many
IPMS IRELAND
starboard and bottom wing on the
port side. White racing number on
Black disc is in 6 positions.
Spinner and fuselage trim in Gold.
The name of the aircraft was painted under the
canopy, probably on the port side only.
on the starboard side only on the position as is
on the BOBMF machine. Note the 6 white
swastikas underneath the canopy. K.
Kuttelwascher ended the war with total of 18
confirmed victories, 15 of those achieved
during 15 night intruder missions flying JxoE.
Hurricane 3
Another variation of the overall Blue scheme.
This time from 1951 National Air Races. Some
sources say that the Blue was different shade
from the Hawker factory variation, but this is not
evident from the photographs. The Gold colour
and style of the marking is similar to the one
from 1950, but execution of the marking is
different. Race number 99 is in Yellow or Gold.
Hurricane 4
The 2000 BOBMF reincarnation of Karel
Kuttelwascher’s machine. The depicted
scheme, which combines night and day
operation colours, is very attractive,
unfortunately, based on misinterpretation of
one of the episodes from No.1 Squadron
history. 65th anniversary logo is painted under
the cockpit on both /?/ sides of the fuselage.
Hurricane 5
The real ‘Night Reaper’, BE581, was painted in
Night overall, with standard RAF marking and
Dull Red code letters. ‘Night Reaper’ motif was
Issue 3
Maths For Modellers.
John is a 50 year old
modeller who started
making models when
he was 10. He started
buying and making
one a week. But on
average he buys 1%
more models per
week. He now only
makes one model a
month. How many
models will John
have when he is 60.
Page 14
Send your Answers to [email protected]
I’ll put the correct answer in the next News Letter.
(Continued on page 15)
April 2010
Last of Many
IPMS IRELAND
Dark Green
Ocean Grey
Medium Sea Grey
Sky
Hawker Blue/ Royal Blue
Gold
Dark Green
Ocean Grey
Dull Red
Night
Issue 3
Page 15
April 2010
Kbely – Prague
IPMS IRELAND
Visit to Kbely Air Museum
Prague
The last issue of the Newsletter had a feature
on the first International venture of IPMS
Ireland, to Prague in the Czech Republic last
September. In that issue, Paul and I outlined
what the three of us (with our esteemed Editor
Ken) did when we visited the E-day model
show. That was on the Sunday. However,
Prague has more than an international model
show – it has one of the biggest Air Museums
on the European mainland. This is located in
the suburbs of Prague, at Kbely, about 10 miles
outside the city. So, on the first day of our
weekend visit, we headed out to have a look.
By Philip Jones
from the last Czech Government Jet (an An-24)
in good condition, to a large number of older
civil transports in poorer condition, to a double
line of old military Warsaw Pact jet fighters and
a line of helicopter gunships.
The Kbely airbase, which was one of the key
Warsaw Pact bases, is still in use by the Czech
air force, as the home of the Czech equivalent
of the Irish Government Jet. However, part of
it, at the front, is cordoned off and consists of
the air museum.
At the entrance, off a
suburban district road, is a fine “gate guardian”.
You are warned, as you enter, that
photographs of the active airfield are not
permitted, but apart from that, you are quite
free to roam around the museum and take as
many photos as you like.
The Kbely museum is a somewhat strange
place – it contains three large hangers and two
smaller hangers, with mainly restored aircraft
inside, and a large area of open storage of
quite a significant number of aircraft, ranging
Issue 3
Page 16
(Continued on page 17)
April 2010
Kbely – Prague
IPMS IRELAND
In the hangers (one of which was
regrettably closed for renovations
at the time we visited), there are
many restored planes. Hangers 1
and 2 have First World War and “between the
Wars” aircraft, mainly of Czech provenance or
manufacture, like various Avia’s and a Zlin.
Most, it has to be said, were unknown to us,
and for this reason, we did not spend too long
doing detailed “walkaround” photographs. This
was not helped, I believe, by the fact that the
exhibits were set out in a series of dioramas,
with realistically styled and uniformed “figures”,
and in what must be regarded as “atmospheric”
lighting (i.e. e. – it was quite dark and damned
difficult to take shots, and impossible to go into
the dioramas so as to get close to the actual
aircraft). On the other hand, one has to
commend the evidently huge work that has
gone into both restoring these rather ancient
craft, and in their presentation. Perhaps if we
were Czechs, we would have appreciated the
importance of these displays.
It was in the other two hangers that we
managed to get into that we found some of the
gems – at least for our aeronautical interests –
including a fully restored Me 262 B (the two
seater), and a number of other interesting
planes, not least of which were a Yak 17 (one
of the first Russian jets, using parts from the
Yak 3 fighter and “liberated” jet engines from
the Reich), another Me 262 (the Czech version
known as the Avia S-92), an La-7, a Meteor
and a Vampire. There were also on display a
Harvard and a Sabre.
What was probably the strangest, and also
perhaps the saddest, part of the overall
museum collection was a line-up of old Warsaw
Pact jet fighters – Mig 21’s, 23’s, Sukhois etc.
These aircraft, which for a time struck terror
into the NATO forces aligned along the borders
of the Warsaw Pact, are now all rusting away in
the sun and rain, at the far end of the layout. It
is quite evident that the limited resources of the
museum are being spent on restoring the older
aircraft, mainly of indigenous Czech
manufacture, and that there is not the finance
(or perhaps even the inclination) to restore
these examples of 1970’s and 1980’s military
hardware that had their origins further to the
East. And who could blame them! Still, for
those who are interested in this era, and these
artefacts, there is at least an argument that this
slice of history deserves to be preserved too.
In the meantime, those of us who want to
model these planes have a great opportunity to
get the necessary details … and get ideas for
(Continued on page 18)
Issue 3
Page 17
April 2010
Kbely – Prague
IPMS IRELAND
striking dioramas. There is also a
group of earlier Migs in a shed in
the centre of the layout, also
rusting away slowly.
But the open display does not only consist of
Soviet era jets. There are also some Western
examples, including a Phantom and a Viggen.
There is also a line of interesting rotary winged
craft, albeit of Warsaw Pact design, many of
which, no doubt, saw action in Afghanistan
during the last but one intervention in that
benighted country.
After
Issue 3
that walking, looking and photographing, there
was just time to visit the little shop - a kind of
portacabin structure that sold the usual tourist
knicknacks, a few kits (Smer and similar), some
good posters, and of course a reviving pint or
two of the local beer!
Overall, I would have to say that it was worth
the visit, despite the fact that the main WW2
hangar was closed when we were there, and
that the public transport arrangements getting
there are a little confusing (metro and then
local bus, if you can find the correct bus stop!).
Certainly, if your interests are in Warsaw Pact
hardware, you will have plenty of detail to see
and photograph. The hanger that was closed
on our visit apparently has a lot of WW2 stuff,
including a S-122 (the Czech version of the Bf
109). In my opinion, a couple of hours there
would be a worthy use of time for any aircraft
modeller while on a city break (or even a stag
outing) to the wonderful city of Prague. Beware
if you are coming out of season – it’s only open
from May to October.
all
Page 18
April 2010
Scale Modelworld 2009
IPMS IRELAND
Is this the real world, or a
By Paul Hurley
Modelworld…..??
I am awoken by the gentle ringing of a bell.
Thinking am I on the way to Heaven, I realize
that it’s just the alarm on my phone. I wake
from my sleep, it’s 03.00 and I am thinking,
“why am I awake at this hour”? The things we
do for a hobby……
It’s a Saturday in
November and this being no ordinary Saturday,
it is Heaven!!! Well actually it’s Scale Model
World 2009, and the 06.30 “Red Eye” flight
from Dublin to Birmingham has my name
booked on it.
It’s 05.30 and as I get some money for my
intended purchases, I meet two other fellow
members who are accompanying me on the
journey. On boarding the flight I notice other
familiar faces, and it’s like a who's who of Irish
modelling. Our arrival in Birmingham and our
transfer is waiting to bring us to Telford.
This being my first visit to SMW, I did not know
what to expect. The first thing I was told to do
was to pre-order your items, which had been
done, so I could make sure I spent enough time
browsing all the various displays and stands.
The space consists of 3 large halls, each one
of which I could only compare to the size of the
RDS, where the likes of Toys for Boys is held
each year. Hall 1 is where you come in, and
has the food and competition area. Halls 2 and
3 would then comprise a mix of traders and
other IPMS groups.
Tempest, in an amazing metal finish. I did not
get a chance to talk to the owner, but I believe
it was scratchbuilt.
Special Interest Groups were in attendance,
including photo recce, gulf war 1, harrier and
various others of scales and themes. Located
beside the IPMS Ireland table was IPMS
Austria, and their display of Draken aircraft was
a sight to behold as one of the members was a
former pilot of the aircraft. The IPMS Ireland
table was manned on a well organised and
agreed rota system. This base provided a
good opportunity to deposit your purchases
that add to the attic insulation, while at the
same time doing your bit for the club.
The Major Manufacturers were there including
One thing I have to mention is lighting. I was
told that, in previous years, the yellowish glow
of the lights made photographing the
competition tables a chore. Well, this is no
more, and a major improvement is in
evidence - nice bright white light.
It was noteworthy to view the level of skill and
scale at the competition tables, as it was an
interesting exercise to judge the level of skill….
or at least what to aim at. I noticed some items
I had seen at e-day in Prague, including a JU86 Diorama, also I have to mention the 1/24
Issue 3
Airfix, and Revell with their new releases.
Traders in attendance were Hannants, the
Aviation Hobby Shop, and one that relieved me
of some cash - Model Alliance, for their decals
Page 19
(Continued on page 20)
April 2010
Scale Modelworld 2009
IPMS IRELAND
and various resin add ons. My
main bargain of the weekend was
a resin 1/72 F-16 spine, that I have
to thank Ken for seeing in one of
the trays.
The time was heading for 16.30 and our prearranged transfer back to the airport was
waiting. I had to say adieu to Telford. I would
have liked more time to converse with other
modellers, but sadly time did not allow. I think I
will be back.
Issue 3
Page 20
April 2010
Scale Modelworld 2009
Issue 3
IPMS IRELAND
Page 21
April 2010
IPMS IRELAND
Handy Web Pages
By Roy McKay.
the ship modelling world.
Webzines
www.aircraftresourcecenter.com Run from
Canada. One of the most useful aircraft
modelling sites, with loads of build articles,
reviews, a huge source of walkarounds,
tools’n’tips, and probably the most active and
useful forum on
http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.
php
w w w . m o d e l i n g m a d n e s s . com
S c o t t y’ s
modelling site, mainly aircraft related, but also
covers other genres. Loads of inbox previews so
useful if you want to know whose kit Revell are
re-boxing this week, as well as a huge decal
sheet review database.. Also has a forum
http://www.flevoaviationhobby.net A Dutch but
English-language site, a new one to me.
http://www.britmodeller.com/ British modellers
for all genres. Again, one with a very useful and
broad-ranging forum. Large vendors’ area in the
forum.
www.carrierbuilders.net Aircraft carriers and
the aircraft they carry! Naval aviation with some
good build articles of both ships and aircraft. Very
useful and underrated site.
www.hyperscale.com Run from Austraila.
Another vast webzine that covers all genres,
loads of product reviews and another hugely
active forum, although personally I don’t like it’s
layout.
www.internetmodeller.com Used to be a
monthly updated site, very much a virtual
modelling magazine, now updates are more
frequent but seemingly not regular. Various.
http://www.cybermodeler.com
above.
Similar to
http://www.finescale.com Website of the
American staple modelling magazine. Some
magazine features online and another useful
forum.
http://www.modelwarships.com
Issue 3
http://www.steelnavy.com The other big ship
modelling site.
http://www.modellversium.de
German
language site with some English content. On the
button for new release lists and especially at the
Nuremberg Toy fair!
RMS FAQ; the Frequently Asked Questions list
from the old Rec.Models.Scale newsgroup. This
is a wealth of knowledge for all aspects of the
hobby. Can be found here; http://ninfinger.org/
models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html (note the
underbar)
http: //ninfinger.org/models/
rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html
http://www.armorama.com/
site.
Military/Armour
http://www.missing-lynx.com/ Armour version
of Hyperscale.
http://vvs.hobbyvista.com/ Modelling the VVS
ht tp: //w w w .fortunecity.com/meltingpot/
portland/971/home.htm Scale Model Aircraft Kit
Reviews- Generally 1/72 aircraft reviews by
ordinary modellers, so fairly honest!
http://www.scale-rotors.com/ Helo modelling
site.
http://www.helikitnews.com/ Another helo
specific site. The main site has been dormant for
over a year, but the archives are useful and the
forum is still very active.
Reference/Real subject;
http://www.airliners.net/ Looking for a picture of
a particular aircraft? Chances are it’s here. Both
civil and military, inside and out.
http://www.jetphotos.net/ Similar to above.
http://www.irishairpics.com/index.php Irish
version of the above two. Strong on Irish content
but has others too.
The ARC of
Page 22
April 2010
IPMS IRELAND
Handy Web Pages
http://www.airlinercafe.com/ Another photo album http://www.ipms-uk.co.uk/ The granddaddy of them
site, but with particular attention to civil aviation all
modellers. Kit articles too!
http://www.ipmsusa.org/ Our American cousins
http://www.ipmsireland.com/ Well, I had to put it in!
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm Probably the http://www.ipmsdeutschland.de/ Very useful site,
biggest site of photo-walkarounds of modern, wartime even if you don’t speak German. Worth it just for the
and post-war military equipment. Huge aircraft links page.
database, everything else from sniper rifles to http://www.ipms-bern.ch/ Swiss dudes.
battleships covered.
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/ More of a webzine
http://www.ejectionsite.com/ Need a photo of that than a club page, this has one of the best paint match
strange seat fitted to the Farley Fruitbat FGR.7? Not colour charts on the web, cross referencing BS, FS
only will you find it, but colour details, photos and RAL etc with almost all major model paint brands.
where you can get one in whatever scale…..
Lots of other useful stuff too.
http://www.uscockpits.com/ Differences between Notable SIGs
the dashboards in the Fruitbat Mk2 and recce http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~garys/ IPMS –
version? Go here… US stuff obviously.
UK Aerobatic team SIG.
http://ipmscanberrasig.webs.com/
IPMS-UK
http://www.jpsmodell.de/main_e.htm Don Color, in Canberra SIG, run by our own John Sheehan!
other words, what camo scheme was the Fruitbat http://www.usaf-sig.org/ USAF SIG.
painted in during 1957-2009? What FS numbers and
what was the pattern? All here, including Non-IPMS;
downloadable/printable profiles for the paint shed.
http://imss.moonfruit.com/ Irish Model Soldier
http://www.flankers.co.uk/ devoted to aircraft of the Society.
former Soviet Union and Warsaw Pact - whether they
be Russian, Ukrainian, Polish, Czech etc.
http://hmmg.ca/index.htm Halifax Military Model
Group, local Canadian club with a useful site.
http://www10.plala.or.jp/strgzr/aircraft/index_e.
html Note underbar “index_e.”
Miscellaneous;
Japanese modern aircraft.
http://www.modelerchannel.com/ Glue-sniffers
http://www.gonavy.jp/ Brilliant resource of US Navy
have their own TV channel, on the web! Slightly
carrier aviation by Japanese enthusiasts. Even has
bizarre site! Doesn’t seem to have been updated for a
serial numbers of aircraft on a particular carrier on a
while though
particular date…..! Good photo gallery too.
http://www.scalemodelindex.com If it’s not listed
http://www.navy.mil/swf/index.asp Official site of
here, it probably doesn’t exist! A directory of all scale
the USN, excellent photo gallery of ships and aircraft
model related websites. Providing links to 3864 Scale
here; http://www.navy.mil/view_galleries.asp
Model Related Sites!
http://www.af.mil/ USAF official site, photo gallery
here; http://www.af.mil/photos/index.asp
Retailers;
Manufacturers;
http://www.thehobbyden.com See their posts on
the Forum.
www.airfix.com
http://www.revell.de/en/
http://www.italeri.com/
Model Clubs- IPMS
Issue 3
www.marksmodels.com Known to us all.
http://www.themodelcentre.net/catalog/
Roches’ shop in Waterford.
Page 23
George
April 2010
IPMS IRELAND
Handy Web Pages
http://www.netmerchants.co.uk/ is based in Larne http://www.jadarhobby.pl/
and has got good comments from forum members.
http://www.modelimex.com/
In the UK;
http://www.hannants.co.uk/ The big one.
The Aviation Hobby Shop http://www.tahs.com/
Small shop, huge inventory, based at Heathrow.
Cheap postage.
Models For Sale http://www.modelsforsale.com/
Kingkit ( good for second hand) http://www.kingkit.
co.uk/kingkit/
And Shrewsbury Model Centre http://stores.ebay.co.
u k / s h r e w s b u r y- m o d e l - c e n t r e
or
www.
shrewsburymodels.co.uk
Aeroclub’s own site, http://www.aeroclub-models.
com/ Excellent retailer of kits and bits for kits!
SBX Model shop http://www.sbxmodelshop.co.uk
A well stocked model shop in Ipswich which
“specialises in plastic models and their associated
'goodies'.” Free shipping, so factor that into their
prices!
In America, there's;
Sprue Bros http://www.spruebrothers.com/
Squadron http://www.squadron.com/
Hobby Buy http://www.hobbybuy.com/ and a whole
host of specialist manufacturers.
Further abroad there’s;
Hobby Link Japan www.hlj.com amazing selection
from the Far East Manufacturers. Quite often, works
out a lot cheaper even including shipping than
ordering from the UK or US.
Lucky Model http://www.luckymodel.com/
Belcher Bits http://www.belcherbits.com/
Modellbau http://www.modellbau-center-koeln.de/
shop/index.htm
Hobby Easy http://www.hobbyeasy.com
Rainbow Ten http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/
index.html ( and when they say 5-6 days, they MEAN
5-6 days!!!)
Ericyymodels http://www.ericyymodel.com/
http://www.oldmodelkits.com/
Issue 3
Page 24
April 2010