Costume material analysis

References:
Character: Edward Elric
Series: Fullmetal Alchemist
Costume material analysis:
The time era the character lives in is in the early 1900s (The Edwardian era). Even though the
series sets in a fictive world, the setting is based on that of Central Europe. For the fabric
choices I kept this in mind and did my research on the used materials and construction on
clothing from that period.
After some research and having held real authenthic clothing in my hands from that period I
came to the following conclusion:
I have tried to find these materials in the most pure and natural state as possible avoiding
synthetic blends.
Technical costume description:
Wig: Butterscotch blonde, lace front, braid tied up with red rope, 2 hairlocks and an ahoge
(for extra length LOL).
Shirt: Cotton from “Frans Modestoffen, Amersfoort”, French seams blind stitched down,
roller hems handstitched down.
Jacket: Pure wool gabardine from “Topstof, Rotterdam”. Lined with linen from “Frans
Modestoffen, Amersfoort”. Interfacing is horsehair padstitched on wool gabardine.
Trimming is pure fine wool gabardine from “Topstof”, seamless as possible sewed on the
jacket. Closure is a sheet handsculpted from airdry clay, coated with liquid plastic from
Smooth-On. Holes are drilled in and screw on rivets are glued on and painted with
silver/black acrylics. In the jacket are eyelets so the screw on rivets can go through it to be
fastened.
Coat: Melton wool from “Black and Sons Fabrics, Los Angeles”. Lining is viscose from
“Topstof, Rotterdam”, a welted pocket is added on the inside. Flamel cross on the back is
melton wool from “Black and Sons Fabrics” handstitched on. On the front are 2 metal
buttons, a hole is punched in the fabric, the eye of the button is pushed through it and
fastened from the inside so the button lays deep in the fabric.
Pants: Cow skin from “De Leerlooier, The Hague”. The lining is Bemberg Silk from “Topstof”.
Interfacing for the pockets is cotton (leftovers from the workshop). 2 pockets are stitched on
the back, with decoratove stitches added. Closure exists out of tack buttons and welted
buttonholes, for longevity and strength. The waistband and the piece where the buttonholes
are added are interfaced with bonded fibers ironed on. The bottom is finished with a cotton
trim. To be able to make this pants, I made use of a triple heavy duty sewing machine with a
walking foot which I was able to use from “Atelier Maskerade, Utrecht”.
Belt: Thick cow skin from “Echt Leer, Noord Scharwoude” . Backpiece is fastened with snap
buttons. The front pieces are riveted on, a hole is punched in it so it can be fastened with
srewback Chicago nails. The flesh side of the leather is burnished down with Gum
Tragacanth and canvas.
Boots: Cow skin from “De Leerlooier, The Hague”. The base are military boots covered with
the cow skin, finished with piped leather. The soles are altered by carving it with a stanley
knife and sanded down with a dremel. Details are from foam and coated with precolored full
ammonia latex. 2 metal rings are added with 3 leather bands riveted on.
Gloves: Melton cotton from “Frans Modestoffen”. Made bigger than usual to be able to fit
over the automail hand.
Automail (arm and leg): The base is from EVA foam, glued together with contact glue from
Bison. The seams of the foam are burned down with a lighter to smooth it out.
The foam is coated with a 2 compound liquid plastic called Smooth Cast from Smooth-On.
After the plastic was cured, everything is sanded down with a dremel and smoothed out
with putty. Details are added with air drying clay from Premier. The finger parts are sculpted
from airdrying clay from Premier. Everything is primed, sanded, painted with acrylics and
drybrushed for a weathered look. The cloth underneath is matte spandex serged together
(except for the hand part which is stitched together with extra strong jarn). The foot (and
handpalm) is made from EVA foam covered with latex sheets. The insides are lined with all
kinds of stretchy leftover fabrics I had laying around and the edges are finished with a trim
glued on. The pieces are attached to each other with velcro or snap buttons.
Lance: The base is made from grey board and a wooden stick. Everything else is sculpted
with air dry clay, sanded down, coated with Smooth Cast plastic, primed and painted with
acrylics, coated with matte and gloss varnish.