Review 20131213 - Right On! Replicas

Transcription

Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20131213*
Abrams M1A1 Tank 1-35 Scale Model Revell Kit #85-1973 Review
Review and Photos by Lonny Dyer
The M1 Abrams, is named after General Creighton Abrams (Sept 14, 1914- Sept 4, 1974) He become
known for his armor skill while serving in the 3rd Armored Division under General George S. Patton where
he commanded U.S. tanks during World War II, he served in the Korean War in 1953-54 and was later
appointed as Commander of military operations’ in Viet Nam (1968-72) and he then served as the U.S.
Army’s chief of staff (the highest position in the Army) until his untimely death in 1974. The M1 Abrams
Main Battle Tank (MBT) was introduced to the U.S. Army in 1980. It was intended to replace the 20 year
old M48A5 tanks, and serve alongside the newer M60A3 tanks. It was designated to be both the U.S. Army
and the Marine Corps’s main battle tank. It was so technologically advanced it was like giving the soldiers a
Rolls Royce instead of the Pinto’s they were used to. The M1A1 was given to the Army in 1985. A1 is the
Army’s way of saying modification #1. The M1A1 sported the new Rheinmetall 120mm smoothbore
cannon, replacing the older 105mm rifled bore cannon, new and improved armor plating consisting of
depleted uranium and improved optical sights.
For the Modeler: This is an Revell “Heavy Hitters” Series Abrams M1A1 Tank 1:35 Scale Model Kit #851973 Review. This is a skill level 1 kit featuring a top mounted machine gun and SnapTite construction. The
kit comes in 58 pieces molded in sand color, two pre-assembled tracks, instruction sheet and stickers. The
drive sprockets and idler wheels are pre-assembled also. This SnapTite armor kit is great for introducing
new modelers to the hobby and history. This kit features glue less, snap-together construction, pre-painted
polystyrene parts, illustrated instructions and a sheet of stick-on markings. The finished dimensions are;
Length 11.0”, Width 4.0”, Height 3.25”.
Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.
Photos 0a & 0b While the kit is molded in color, I decided I was going to paint it for added realism. But for
the young modeler the kit is impressive as is. So I gently washed all parts in soapy water and laid the out to
dry.
Paint Guide
Black primer for everything
Exterior colorBase coat-Tamiya dark yellow XF-60
Top coat Tamiya desert sand XF-59
Rucksacks and ammo cans –Tamiya Olive green XF-58
Machine guns- Tester’s Gunmetal
Roadwheels- flat black
Begin with the lower hull (2) and the rear plate (7) they snap right together and align nicely. Photo 2
Next install the drive sprockets in the rear notch and the idler wheels in the front notch and then snap in the
retainer parts front (5) and rear (6). Photo 3 and 4
Construct 14 roadwheel assemblies
by snapping parts (8) and (9)
together, now you can snap the road
wheels onto the roadwheel arms now
or wait like I did so I could paint the
hull.
Construct two support rollers using
(2x 23) and (4x 22) slide one wheel
(22) on the axle (23) then pass the
axle through the hull and attach the
opposite wheel to the axle repeat this
for second roller assembly.
Gun Tube:
Photo 6 Assemble the gun tube L (17) and R (16), muzzle (18), and mount (15).
Photo 7 and 8 The finished unit should look as follows. Notice how the bore evacuator is tilted off center
toward the left side of the gun and the bore alignment device is straight on top.
*** Step 9 in the instruction sheet is wrong. ** Test fit the gun tube to the top half of the turret before
assembling the turret to ensure you can elevate and depress the gun tube. I found a major clearance issue
that required trimming and sanding the back edge of the gun mount (*15) to be able to elevate or depress
the gun tube.
Photo 9 To assemble the turret, snap top (10) to
bottom (11) trapping the gun between them. Do not
follow the illustration in the booklet (it is upside down)
the coaxial machine gun should be on the left side of
the gun tube (when viewed from the front).
Photo 10 Add the stowage boxes R (20)
and L (19) and rear (21) to the turret.
Photo 10 I have installed part (19) and
(20) and (21) are in the foreground.
Photo 11 and 12 all 3 parts are installed on the turret.
Photo 13 To finish the turret the following parts are needed:
commander’s cupola (12), main gun sight (29) and machine
guns (13 & 14). I am going to paint the guns separately so I will
not lock them in yet.
Photo 14 Turret finished
Photo 15 Here is a close view of the top of the turret.
Photo 16 Because I am going to paint this model I added the side skirts
L (3) and R (4) to the upper hull (1) but DID NOT ATTACH the UPPER
HULL to the LOWER HULL YET!
Photo 17 I am now ready for painting. I have a piece of Styrofoam
with wooden skewers stuck in to hold the pieces above my table
and to allow ease in painting the whole piece at once. I am using a
flat black primer to add shade to my final color.
Photo 18 After just two very light coats the upper hull is ready to
top coat. The light areas on this piece will allow the top coat to
also have different shades of sand paint.
Photo 19 When painting the lower hull I suggest not putting a lot of
effort into the top portion as it will all be hidden by the side skirts.
Concentrate on the front and rear and around the road wheel arms
when painting. This too was painted with the black primer, 2 or 3 light
coats will do just fine.
Photo 20 After 2 coats of primer and, after letting it sit for a
day or two, the hull is ready for the top coat.
Photo 21 I use pipe cleaners tied to some skewers
to hold the road wheels for painting with primer.
Photo 22 Here I have painted the tank with 3 coats of Tamiya’s dark yellow. ** Normally I would use desert
sand to maintain accuracy but I am going to use this one for some weathering practice.
Photo 23 After the finish coat has dried I added the road wheels. They are still in black primer which will be
the rubber part and I will hand paint the steel parts as I am weathering the kit.
Photo 24 Attach the tracks by carefully stretching them over the sprockets (rear) and idler wheels (front)
and aligning the center guides with the gaps in the road wheels. ** Note the track is directional; it must be
installed as shown by ensuring the proper orientation on the vehicle. Look toward rear sprocket and notice
the “V” pattern and how it runs.
Photo 25 and 26 Once both tracks are on attach the upper hull to the lower hull.
Photo 27 I used a piece of
plastic like this from the
packaging of something I
had bought and cut out
pieces to fill as the vision
blocks on the commanders
cupola. After gluing them
in place I painted each one
with gunmetal to add
realism.
Photo 28 This is how the inside of my cupola looks
afterwards.
Photo 29 This is the
.50cal machine gun
for the commander’s
hatch. See the
wedge shaped part
where the mount pin
is? If installed like
this it is very
unattractive and
detracts from the
overall appearance.
Photo 30 Using my sprue cutters to cut the “ears” off to narrow this piece and make it more realistic
Photo 31 After trimming and a little sanding this mount will not look out of place as it did before
Finishing:
Photo 32 Using flat black paint that has been thinned down to 3 parts paint/7 parts thinner I painted the
cracks and crevasses on the hull in order to show depth.
Photo 33 Attach the finished turret to the hull by lining up the notches
and the twist the turret 90 degrees.
Photo 34 On the top I have added some smudges and scuff marks using a dab of black paint then
feathering out with a clean brush dipped in clean thinner.
Photo 35 I masked off the area where I will paint the
arrowheads on the sides. The kit comes with stickers
instead of decals but they are too shiny for me. Besides
when I was deployed to Desert Shield/Storm in 1990-91
we hand painted all the markings and they looked it.
Photo 36 The arrow on the side and smudge marks on the back corners where two of the fuel caps are
located. The other two are under the turret beside the drivers hatch. The rucksacks hanging off the turret
are painted O.D. Green.
Photo 37 Right rear view. I have painted smudges on the exhaust grill.
Photo 39 Left front view & 40 Head on View. I would have preferred a better representation for headlights
than these flat panels sticking up.
Photo 999 Conclusion: This kit was a breeze to build. I had my reservations with it being a SnapTite model.
I was worried about how the final appearance would look. To my surprise the pieces of this kit fit together
nice and tight. They give the finished model an awesome
appearance. Adding on the paint gave me a very nice piece for my
armor collection. This is a great kit for an early beginner; I let my 8
year old grandson do most of the assembly. For the experienced
modeler the kit has great potential for detailing, modifying, or just to
get a nice looking M1A1 in your collection. Cons: With no headlights
it is going to take some imagination to make the front of the tank
look real; the idler wheels, even though they are hidden, are not
realistic at all.

Review 20131213 - Right On! Replicas

Transcription

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